“Somebody left the cork out of my lunch”
– W.C. Fields
The press of diners coming in for breakfast might have abated, but there’s still plenty to do to prepare for lunch. The restaurant manager paces through the venue, adjusting the music and lights to make sure that the ambience is ideal for guests arriving for midday refreshment. The chefs continue with their work amongst boiling pots and blazing stoves. On any given day you’ll find them glazing figs, steaming bao, rolling rice paper or sharpening their sushi knives. The activity is constant.
At M there are two working lunch offerings. One is Menu 28, a two-course plus coffee menu served in 28 minutes for £28, the other is a five-element Bento box designed for a quick protein high.
On the other hand, lunch is a leisurely affair for diners at M. There’s nothing more enjoyable than a meal that begins at noon and stretches through the day. There have been a number of occasions when guests at M have whiled away the entire afternoon until dinner suddenly arrives, gourmandising on everything from sweetbreads to sea bream to steak. During the tail end of the week, many of the M regulars will come in to enjoy the GRILL menu. During the earlier days, however, diners on a tight schedule often opt for healthier foods served in a shorter period of time – which is where M RAW really comes into its own.
In 2015, Martin and Michael travelled to Japan on a trip to research the cuisine and learn the technical skills necessary for properly creating the country’s most celebrated dishes, specifically sushi, sashimi, ramen, yakitori and bao buns. On a fateful evening in Tokyo, they visited one of the city’s most renowned sushi counters, where they were lavished with fourteen courses of some of the best raw fish they’d ever eaten. Later in the trip they visited a famous yakitori joint and indulged in eight courses of charcoal-kissed meat and seafood served on wooden skewers. The penny had dropped. They decided to reboot RAW with Japanese cuisine as a focal point.
Recently the menu has evolved to encompass a broad range of dishes served in small-plate fashion, so guests can choose to share and enjoy a varied array of flavours. These include a number of updated versions of classic Japanese recipes. The Quinoa Swordfish Sushi borrows inspiration from Nikkei cuisine. The pork pluma skewers offer yakitori an Iberian interpretation. Ramen takes on haute cuisine heft with Blackmore Wagyu beef from Australia. Aside from this, M RAW is underpinned by unabashedly Japanese dishes including Swordfish Sashimi, Cereal-crusted Aubergine and Tofu and Monkfish Dashi with poached baby vegetables.
Of course, for those looking to enjoy more European flavours, M offers an eclectic range of options including Steak Tartare, Smoked Baby Beetroots, Burrata with artichoke and Veal Sweetbreads with goat’s curd, carrots and toasted walnuts.
The recipes in this chapter are suited to a delicious, eclectic weekend lunch for friends or family. You will find a selection of starters, mains, sides and desserts on the following pages.
A lot of the chefs who have worked in my kitchens over the years have given me a hard time about the sheer volume of my recipes that the firecracker sauce makes an appearance in, but when it’s as flavoursome and dynamic as this, it’s hard not to give it a supporting role. Firecracker is a simple, yet powerful, Asian chilli sauce packed with savour and spice. We use it to give depth to a broad variety of our marinades and sauces. If you want to step your game up at home, a sauce like this separates the dilettantes from the professionals.
SERVES 4
800g fresh or frozen edamame beans
sea salt
For the Firecracker Sauce (makes about 1.2 litres)
100ml vegetable oil
1kg fresh red chillies, stems removed and roughly chopped
250g red onions, roughly chopped
50g garlic cloves, roughly chopped
500ml freshly squeezed lime juice
250ml Vietnamese fish sauce
250g sugar
100ml rice vinegar
100ml dark soy sauce
sea salt
First make the firecracker sauce, which will keep in a covered container in the fridge for up for up to three months. Place the oil, chillies, red onions and garlic in a heavy-based saucepan over a very low heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours, or until darkened and the natural sugars separate. Watch carefully so the mixture doesn’t burn.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, vinegar and soy sauce with salt to taste. Leave to cool slightly, then transfer to a food processor and blitz until a coarse sauce forms – it shouldn’t be too smooth. Cover and chill until required.
When ready to serve, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the edamame beans and boil for 1 minute, or until tender. Drain well and transfer the beans to a bowl. Add 125ml of the firecracker sauce and toss so the beans are coated.
Anyone who has visited South Africa will have chewed on a stick of biltong, but our Head Chef Jarad McCarroll’s version is almost unrecognisable for its elegance. Cured to unbelievable tenderness, it’s a great snack to impress your mates the next time you have them over for beer, and the only virtue it requires is a little patience.
650g boneless sirloin in one piece, we use Argentine, but British works just as well
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, crushed
1 tablespoon sea salt
Before you begin, make sure you have room in your fridge to hang the biltong for one week. It will then keep for up to a month in the fridge without having to be hung. Cut the beef in half lengthways and then into 4 or 6 equal pieces, depending on the thickness.
Put 1½ tablespoons of the vinegar and 1½ teaspoons of the Worcestershire sauce in a large non-metallic bowl. Add the beef and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3. Place the coriander seeds, peppercorns and salt in a roasting tray, and toast, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until aromatic. Transfer to a small food processor and blitz until a coarse powder forms. Set aside.
After the beef has marinated for 30 minutes, remove it from the marinade and pat half the spice mixture all over each piece. Use butcher’s hooks or kitchen string to hang the beef and leave it to drip dry at room temperature for 1 hour. Discard the marinade.
Mix the remaining vinegar and Worcestershire sauce together, then add the spice-coated beef pieces and leave to marinate for just 5 minutes this time. Leave the beef to drip dry at room temperature a second time, then transfer to the fridge and hang to age and dry thoroughly for at least one week.
To serve, slice very thinly – and enjoy with a glass of Japanese beer.
Goat’s curd is the cornerstone of this gorgeous, colourful salad of slow-roasted beets. If you can find a local vendor who sells artisanal, organic curd, it will make all the difference with this dish. It works great as a canapé, a starter or as an accompaniment to poultry.
SERVES 4
300g raw baby beetroots
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon smoked olive oil (available online)
2 bay leaves (fresh is best, but use dried if necessary)
2 thyme sprigs
sea salt
To serve
120g goat’s curd
4 tablespoons toasted (TOASTING NUTS) and crushed blanched almonds
4 teaspoons smoked olive oil
edible flowers, to garnish
coriander cress, to garnish
To roast the baby beetroots, preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Wrap the beetroots, garlic, smoked olive oil, bay leaves, thyme sprigs and a pinch of salt in a large piece of kitchen foil, sealing the packet so none of the steam escapes.
Roast for 25 minutes, or until the baby beetroots are tender and a skewer slides in without any resistance. When the beetroots are cool enough to handle, peel them and cut each in half. Leave to cool to room temperature for serving.
To serve, divide the goat’s curds among 4 plates in small mounds and top with the baby beetroots and almonds. Very lightly drizzle with smoked olive oil and garnish with flowers and coriander cress. Serve.
We love steak tartare. But for anyone who’s spent time in France, the traditional recipe can get a bit tiresome. Whilst there are certain things that can be done to distinguish your personal take on the dish, such as chopping the meat a bit more finely or adding a secret ingredient like red wine, we wanted to push the boat out and do something more inventive – so we gave the classic a Korean twist. The Koreans have been doing their own version of tartare with chilled pear and sesame for decades. Ours is a bit more French, but we’ve pimped it up with kimchi purée instead of the Tabasco, which elevates the ‘kick element’ to the next level.
This recipe makes more kimchi purée and beetroot ketchup than you need, but they both store well and spice up any meal. I especially like the kimchi purée with chicken and fish dishes. They won’t be wasted, I promise you. Any leftover smoked water will keep indefinitely in a covered container in the fridge. I use it in various other recipes, including Mushroom Ketchup.
SERVES 4
4 Argentine rump steaks, about 60g each, trimmed if necessary, and finely chopped
4 teaspoons smoked olive oil (available online)
4 Slow-cooked Eggs, cooked at least 50 minutes in advance
90g shallots, very finely chopped
4 tablespoons very finely chopped cornichons
4 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley
1½ tablespoons capers in brine, drained and rinsed
4 tablespoons deseeded, cored and very finely chopped red pepper
4 teaspoons deseeded and very finely chopped fresh red chilli
sea salt
8 thin slices of toasted brioche or sourdough bread, to serve
For the Smoked Water
about 35g cherry wood chips for smoking (the exact amount will depend on the size of your container)
300ml water
For the Beetroot Ketchup (makes about 180ml)
2 tablespoons smoked water (see above)
1 tablespoon sugar
2½ teaspoons white wine vinegar
150g raw beetroots, peeled and chopped
¼ Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and chopped
¼ teaspoon deseeded and chopped fresh red chilli
For the Kimchi Purée (makes about 600ml)
1 Napa cabbage, halved lengthways, cored and cut crossways into 2.5cm-wide pieces
2 tablespoons sea salt
130g sugar
20 garlic cloves, very finely chopped
20 very thin slices of peeled fresh ginger
4 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce
4 tablespoons light soy sauce (usukuchi)
50g Korean chilli flakes (kochukaru), or use dry chilli flakes
20g salted shrimp from a jar
75g carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
50g spring onions, roughly chopped
100ml vegetable oil
The beetroot ketchup can be made up to one month in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge. First, however, you have to make the smoked water. Place a 2cm-layer of wood chips in a sturdy baking tray. Light the wood chips, then place the tray over the burners on the hob set to high. Once the flames die down and the wood chips are smoking, turn the burners to very low, place a perforated baking sheet on top and cover the tray tightly with kitchen foil.
Pour the water into a small heatproof bowl. After a ‘cloud’ of smoke has built up under the foil, add the bowl to the tray, re-cover the tray tightly and leave the water to smoke for 10 minutes, or until it becomes slightly dark and has taken on a smoky flavour. Set the water aside and leave the wood chips until they are cool enough to discard.
To make the beetroot ketchup, combine the smoked water, sugar and vinegar in a saucepan over a high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and bring to the boil. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the liquid to cool to room temperature. Set aside or cover and chill until required.
Put the beetroots, apple, chilli and smoked water mixture in a large vacuum seal bag, and seal securely. Bring a saucepan of water large enough to hold the bag to the boil. Add the bag and keep the water at a steady boil for 45 minutes. Very carefully transfer the beetroot and other ingredients to a blender or food processor and blitz until smooth, then pass through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Season with salt to taste, then cover and chill until required.
The kimchi for the kimchi purée should be made at least one week in advance and is best when it’s left to ferment for two weeks. Toss the cabbage with the salt and 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a non-metallic bowl. Cover with clingfilm and leave to sit overnight in the fridge.
The next day, combine the garlic, ginger, fish sauce, soy sauce, chilli flakes, shrimp and remaining sugar in another large non-metallic bowl. If the mixture is very thick, slowly add a little water until it has a pouring consistency. Stir in the carrots and spring onions.
Drain the cabbage and add it to other ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for at least one week to ferment.
After the kimchi has fermented, transfer the mixture to a blender, add the vegetable oil and blitz until smooth.
To serve, toss the steak pieces with the smoked olive oil, then divide among 4 plates. Crack the slow-cooked eggs one at a time into your hand, allowing the white to run through your fingers, then add one yolk to each plate. Add 2 tablespoons of the kimchi purée and 2 tablespoons of the beetroot ketchup to each plate, then sprinkle the shallots, cornichons, parsley, capers, red pepper and chillies over the steak pieces. Season to taste with salt and serve with toasted brioche.
Londoners have been adoring of Nikkei cuisine before they even knew what it was. Just ask anybody who visited Nobu in the 1990s. Quinoa swordfish sushi is a case in point. Wrapping up raw fish Japanese style in a Peruvian superfood is not only easy on the waistline and taste buds, but easy on the eyes as well. This is great date night fare, especially if your date happens to be a model.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
300g black quinoa, well rinsed in cold water
75ml rice wine
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon Xantham gum
75ml fish stock
80g runny honey, or to taste
4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste
4 sheets nori seaweed
200g swordfish fillet, skinned and cut into thin strips
50g cucumber, deseeded and thinly sliced
25g red pepper, deseeded, cored and cut into thin strips
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and very thinly sliced
These are best made as soon as possible before serving, but can be chilled for up to 4 hours. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the quinoa and stir for 2 minutes to lightly toast. Add the rice wine and rice vinegar to deglaze the pan, then stir in the Xantham gum. Add the fish stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the quinoa is tender and the outer skins burst. Drain well, then stir in the honey and lemon juice.
Shape one sushi roll at a time. Place a sushi mat flat on your work surface and add a sheet of nori. Use a wet palette knife to spread one-quarter of the quinoa mix into a rectangle over the nori. Arrange one-quarter each of the swordfish, cucumber, red pepper and chilli along the centre of the quinoa rectangle. Use the mat to roll the quinoa and nori into a tight roll, as shown in the photograph. Make 3 more rolls the same way. Cut into bite-sized pieces and serve immediately.
Swordfish is one of our favourites to consume raw. For this recipe we add a dollop of Mexican influence in the form of a nice citric and creamy guacamole to set it off.
SERVES 4
1 Hass avocado
freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon
300g swordfish fillet, skinned
sea salt
To garnish
½ fresh red chilli, deseeded and very finely chopped
½ red onion, very finely chopped
edible flowers
red-veined cress
As close as possible to serving, peel and deseed the avocado, then transfer it to a small food processor or blender. Add the lemon juice and blitz until a smooth purée forms. Season with salt to taste, then set aside.
Very thinly slice the swordfish, taking care to make even, thin slices – if they are too thick, the sashimi will be chewy.
Spread the avocado purée over 4 plates, then arrange the swordfish slices on top. Garnish with the chilli, red onion, flowers and cress, and serve immediately.
Scallops with bacon ... the pairing of ocean and pasture might initially seem at odds with each other, but the porcine saltiness of the bacon beautifully complements the sweeter salinity of the mollusc. For this recipe, we’ve given the dish a bit of a RAW facelift, with the scallops served as both Argentine tiraditos and a lively, citrusy tartare.
SERVES 4
12 large scallops, shelled and corals removed
½ Granny Smith apple, cored and very finely diced
1 tablespoon crème fraîche
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon olive oil
very finely chopped chives, plus 4 whole chives, to garnish
freshly grated zest of ½ lime, plus extra for garnishing
salt and freshly ground white pepper
coriander cress, to garnish
For the Bacon Crumble
250g streaky bacon, rinded if necessary
For the Apple Gel
5cm piece of lemongrass stalk, bruised
125ml clear apple juice
1 gelatine leaf
Cook the bacon for the crumble at least a day ahead: it will keep for up to two days in a covered container in the fridge. Preheat the oven to 130°C/Gas Mark ½. Arrange the bacon in a single layer in a baking tray and roast for 20 minutes, or until brown and crispy. Drain well on kitchen paper, set aside and leave to cool.
Place the bacon in a Thermomix and blitz on speed 7 for 45 seconds. Transfer to a dehydrator and leave overnight, then transfer in an airtight container until required. (If you don’t have a Thermomix or dehydrator, see ALTERNATIVE TECHNIQUES IF YOU DON’T HAVE A THERMOMIX.)
The apple gel can be made up to four days in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge. Place the lemongrass in the apple juice for 40 minutes to infuse, then remove. Soften the gelatine leaf in a bowl of cold water to cover for at least 5 minutes.
Put the infused apple juice in a saucepan and bring to the simmer. Do not boil. Remove the gelatine leaf from the water and squeeze out the excess water. Stir it into the simmering apple juice until dissolved. Pour the apple juice into a shallow tray and leave at room temperature until set. (You can speed up the process by leaving the mixture to cool and then chilling until set, but leaving it at room temperature is best.)
Place half the set apple gel in a small food processor and blitz until it has a pouring consistency. Transfer it to a squeezy bottle or a piping bag fitted with a small plain tip and chill until required. Cut the remaining apple jelly into fine cubes and chill until required.
At least 6 hours, and up to 12 hours, before you plan to serve, wrap six of the scallops in clingfilm to freeze them. Lay a piece of clingfilm horizontally on the work surface. Arrange the scallops side by side horizontally across the centre of the clingfilm, about 2.5cm in from the bottom edge, then roll up into a thick sausage shape. Very tightly twist both ends and tie with string. Place in the freezer until just before serving.
Finely dice the remaining scallops, then chill in a covered container until required. Just before serving, mix together the apple, crème fraîche, lime juice, olive oil, chives and lime zest, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Gently stir in the diced scallops.
To serve, slice the still-wrapped scallops as thinly as possible – we use a meat slicer, but you can also use a very fine, sharp knife. It is easiest to remove the clingfilm from the scallop slices after slicing.
Divide the slices among 4 plates and sprinkle the bacon topping all along the edge, then add the tartare mixture. Top with a whole chive, then garnish with the cress and grate lime zest over. Garnish the plate with the diced apple gel and add dots of the more-liquid apple gel. Serve immediately.
This dish quickly became a firm favourite in the restaurant, and was a fun project to develop. There’s something to be said about honouring the simplicity of luxurious ingredients like langoustines and foie gras. However, there’s something equally compelling about playing them off against each other, creating flavour combinations that tease out each ingredient’s special character. What I’ve done here is take the succulence of the langoustine, added some acidity with the pickled cucumber and grapefruit, and then topped it off with the rich creaminess of grated foie gras.
SERVES 4
9 live langoustines
For the Pickled Cucumber
150ml Chardonnay vinegar
100g granulated sugar
60g cucumber, peeled, deseeded and cut into 5mm dice
For the citrus cure
150g granulated sugar
100g fine table salt
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed
finely grated zest of 1 pink grapefruit
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
finely grated zest of 1 lime
finely grated zest of 1 orange
To garnish
200g pink grapefruit segments
extra virgin olive oil
foie gras, frozen
sea salt
coriander cress
The pickled cucumber should be made at least two days in advance, but is best made at least four days in advance and it keeps for up to one month in the pickling brine in a covered container in the fridge. Combine the vinegar and sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then set aside to cool completely. Transfer the cucumber and liquid to a non-metallic container, cover and chill until required.
Place the langoustines in the freezer for at least 40 minutes to kill them humanely. Meanwhile, to make the citrus cure, combine the sugar, salt, coriander seeds and citrus zests in a non-metallic bowl, and set aside until required.
Remove the langoustines from the freezer. Peel them, discarding the heads, and devein the tails. Spread one-third of the citrus cure mixture over a non-metallic tray large enough to hold the langoustines in a single layer. Arrange the langoustines on top, cover with the remaining mixture and leave for 9 minutes.
Rinse the cure off the langoustine tails and pat them dry. Place a large sheet of clingfilm horizontally on the work surface and arrange 6 langoustine tails side by side, head to tail, horizontally across the centre. Top with the remaining 3 tails in the centre, alternating the head and tail ends. Pull up the bottom edge of the clingfilm over the langoustines. Roll up the tails in the clingfilm to make a tight, thick sausage shape. Tie securely at both ends. Place in the freezer for least 2 hours, or until firm enough to cut.
To serve, slice the still-wrapped langoustine tails as thinly as possible on to some greaseproof paper – we use a meat slicer, but you can also use a very fine, sharp knife. It is easiest to remove the clingfilm from the langoustine slices after slicing. The slices will defrost in the short time it takes you to finish the dish.
Use a blow torch to char the grapefruit segments, When ready to serve, transfer the langoustine slices on to plates by turning the greaseproof paper over on the plate and peeling back, leaving the langoustine on the plate. Arrange the grapefruit segements on top of the langoustine slices.
Pat the pickled cucumber cubes dry with kitchen paper and add them to the plates. Drizzle each plate with olive oil, grate the frozen foie gras over each and season with salt to taste. Garnish with cress and serve immediately.
Mornings after are never fun. But mornings after coupled with transcontinental jetlag are the worst. Martin and I were feeling particularly fog-headed after our first evening out in Tokyo, but got up early to investigate the famous Tsukiji fish market in Chuo. An early morning trek around a fish market isn’t what I would call the perfect hangover cure, but it wasn’t long before we happened upon a row of small cafés, one of which was a ramen shop. When the air is redolent of tonkotsu and you’re hungry and hungover, the writing is on the wall.
Ramen is hard work. The complexity of the broth is what keeps people coming back for more. It’s a labour of love, but the end result is worth the sweat and toil. Preparing it at home or in the restaurant transports me back to that morning in the fish market every time – not the hangover per se, but the relief offered by a nourishing bowl of noodles.
SERVES 4
4 free-range eggs, at room temperature
1.5 litres Ramen Broth
Tarè, to taste
240g fresh shiitake mushroom caps
600g ramen noodles
200g bamboo shoots, ideally fresh, but use well-rinsed tinned shoots if they are all you can find
2 fresh red chillies, deseeded and thinly sliced
4 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves
4 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onions
80g kombu, cut into 4 pieces and well rinsed under cold running water
180g Blackmore Wagyu brisket, very thinly sliced
sea salt
To soft-boil the eggs, bring a large saucepan of water to a slow boil. Gently lower the eggs into the water and cook for 5 minutes for runny yolks and set whites. While the eggs are cooking, put a bowl of iced water in the sink. Once cooked, immediately transfer the unshelled eggs to the iced water to stop the cooking. When they are cool enough to handle, shell them and set aside.
Reheat the broth in a large pan and adjust the seasoning with 2–3 tablespoons tarè per 1 litre of broth. Add the fresh shiitake mushroom caps and poach them until they are tender.
Meanwhile, bring another very large pan three-quarters full of salted water to the boil. Add the ramen noodles and cook according to the packet instructions. Ramen noodles froth up quite a bit, so it needs to be a large pan. Drain and divide the noodles among 4 bowls.
Use a slotted spoon to scoop the fresh mushroom caps out of the broth and divide between the bowls. Return the broth to a full boil. Divide the bamboo shoots, chillies, coriander leaves, spring onions and kombu among the bowls. Cut the eggs in half and add 2 halves to each bowl, along with the brisket slices.
Pour over the boiling broth and serve immediately.
CEREAL-CRUSTED AUBERGINE AND TOFU
If I were to be a vegetarian, this would be my replacement for steak. I tried a similar dish to this in a restaurant in Melbourne and was smitten by the soft aubergine and inspired to do my own take. It succeeds on two fronts, as a healthy and extremely delicious dish.
SERVES 4
300g aubergine, cut into wedges
100ml buttermilk
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
100g firm tofu, drained, cut into 2.5cm cubes and patted dry
75g fine tapioca flour
75g rolled oats
Spice Coating for sprinkling
coriander cress, to garnish
Firecracker Sauce, to serve
Leave the aubergine to marinate in the buttermilk for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours. When ready to cook, heat enough oil for deep-frying to 190°C.
While the oil is heating, coat the tofu in the tapioca flour, making sure each side is coated, then gently tap off the excess and set aside.
Combine the remaining tapioca flour and rolled oats together. Pat the rolled oat mixture on to the aubergine pieces, making sure each piece is well coated.
Add the tofu pieces to the oil and deep-fry until they are golden and they float to the surface. Drain well on kitchen paper and keep hot while frying the aubergine pieces until they are golden and float to the surface. Drain the aubergine pieces on kitchen paper, sprinkle with the spice coating to taste and keep hot until they are all fried. Reheat the oil between batches if necessary.
Serve immediately with a bowl of the firecracker sauce on the side.
These little babies are like the haute cuisine equivalent of Canadian poutine, with fried ratte potatoes taking the place of chips, bacon taking over for the cheese curd and a soubise instead of chicken gravy. Our Head Chef Jarad really tapped into his naughty side to come up with this recipe, and it’s still a bit of a mystery how it made its way onto the RAW menu. If you want to throw all calorific cares to the wind, you’ve come to the right place.
SERVES 4
400g ratte potatoes
1 thyme sprig
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
very finely chopped fresh parsley, to garnish
thinly sliced spring onions, to garnish
For the bacon butter
125g butter
75g streaky bacon, rinded if necessary
1½ teaspoons smoked paprika
For the onion soubise (makes about 300ml)
50g butter
2 large onions, sliced wafer-thin, ideally using a mandolin
100ml water
375ml dry white wine
For the Chilli and Bacon
100 olive oil
100g streaky bacon, rinded if necessary and finely chopped
1 long fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
The bacon butter can be made up to one week in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge until required. Melt half the butter in a sauté pan over a medium heat. When it is foaming, add the bacon, reduce the heat to low and fry, stirring frequently until it is brown and crispy. This can take up to 30 minutes. Pass the butter through a sieve and set aside to cool. Discard the bacon.
Use an electric mixer to beat the remaining butter until it is light and foamy. Add the bacon-flavoured butter and smoked paprika, and continue beating until very light and foamy. Transfer to a bowl, cover and chill until required.
The onion soubise can be made up to two days in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over a medium heat. When it is foaming, add the onions and water, reduce the heat to low, cover and leave the onions to sweat until they are softened but not coloured. The water creates an emulsion so the onions do not colour and burn. Continue cooking over a low heat until the onions are completely soft, without any bite at all. Add the wine and simmer, uncovered, until it is 90 per cent evaporated.
Transfer the onions and the remaining liquid to a blender or food processor and purée. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then pass through a fine sieve into a bowl and set aside at room temperature until required. (If you’ve made the sauce in advance, cover and chill it until 30 minutes before serving, then remove from the fridge and leave it to return to room temperature.)
To cook the potatoes, put them and the thyme sprig in a saucepan of salted water. Cover and bring to the boil over a high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer for 40 minutes, or until they are tender. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the potatoes to cool naturally in the water. When they are cool, drain and pat them dry with kitchen paper, then set aside until required.
Meanwhile, make the chilli and bacon. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the bacon and fry until it is brown. Strain the mixture and reserve the oil and bacon separately.
Fry the chilli in the bacon oil until is fragrant and soft, then use a slotted spoon to remove it from the oil. Combine the chillies and bacon, and set aside.
When you are ready to serve, heat enough oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Squeeze the potatoes gently so the skins break. Add them to the oil and deep-fry for 3–4 minutes until golden brown and crispy on the edges. Remove them from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Work in batches, if necessary, reheating the oil between each batch.
Melt the reserved bacon butter in a large hot sauté pan over a medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and toss to glaze. Add the bacon and chilli and warm through. Divide the onion soubise among 4 bowls and top with the potato mixture. Garnish with parsley and spring onions and serve immediately.
So, anyone who’s made a delicious sandwich will know what an important role great bread plays in it, and the same principal applies to steamed buns – arguably the most important component in bao. Make the bun too fluffy and you risk overwhelming the ingredients. If the bun isn’t fluffy enough it can split at the seam, spilling the contents and becoming more sandwich than roll. This recipe utilises milk to make the dough pillow soft. Believe me, it will put any sandwich to shame.
MAKES 12
1.5kg ox cheeks, patted dry
450g onions, roughly chopped
325g carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
12 bay leaves, fresh is best, but use dried if necessary
125g tomato purée
180ml Malbec or other full-bodied dry red wine
450ml White Chicken Stock
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Wasabi Mayonnaise, to serve
pea shoot cress, to garnish
For the Malbec onions
210g unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
225g onions, thinly sliced
225ml Malbec or other full-bodied dry red wine
For the steamed buns (makes 12)
(it’s not practical to make less than 12 of these light and delicate buns, but if you don’t use all 12 immediately simply freeze the leftovers after they have risen for up to three months, then steam from frozen for 12 minutes, or until puffed up, as required.)
525g plain white flour, plus extra for dusting
4 teaspoons sugar, plus an extra pinch
sea salt
1 sachet (15g) dried yeast
200ml water, lukewarm
15g sushi vinegar
50ml milk
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing and brushing
1 tablespoon baking powder
For the crispy crumb coating
6 free-range eggs
3 tablespoons whole milk
6 tablespoons plain white flour
150g panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
The Malbec onions can be made up to one week in advance and will keep in a covered container in the fridge. Remove from the fridge about 30 minutes before serving so they return to room temperature. Melt the butter with the oil in a sauté pan over a medium heat. When it is foaming, add the onions, reduce the heat to low and fry, stirring often, until the onions are caramelised. Add the wine and simmer, uncovered, until the liquid is completely reduced. Remove the onions from the heat, season with salt to taste and leave to cool completely. Cover and chill if not using immediately.
The beef cheeks are best cooked, shredded and shaped into patties a day in advance, so they have plenty of time to ‘set’ before deep-frying. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large, hot frying pan with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat. Add the cheeks to the pan and sear until browned on both sides. Remove the cheeks and set aside. Depending on the size of your pan, it might be easiest to use two pans, or work in batches, adding a little extra oil between batches.
Add the onions, carrots and bay leaves to the pan, and fry, stirring, for 3 minutes, or until the onions start to colour. Stir in the tomato purée and continue stirring for a further 3–4 minutes until the onions are softened. Add the wine and leave it to bubble until it reduces by half.
Pour in the chicken stock and return the beef cheeks to the pan. Cover the surface with a piece of greaseproof paper, then cover the pan. Reduce the heat to very low and leave the cheeks to simmer for 4 hours, or until the tip of a knife slides through the meat without any resistance. Remove the cheeks from the pan and set aside to cool slightly. Discard the liquid and flavouring ingredients.
Use 2 forks to pull apart all the meat until it is finely shredded, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Shape the meat into 4 hamburger-like patties, and leave in the fridge, covered, for 6 hours, or until they are all firm to the touch.
Next make the buns. We make so many of these light and fluffy buns a day that we use a heavy-duty, free-standing electric mixer. If you don’t have one, just use your hands to knead for 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough will almost look glossy. Be very careful not to add too much flour when you are kneading, rolling and shaping, or the steamed buns will be heavier than you want.
Combine the flour, sugar and 1½ teaspoons sea salt in an electric mixer with a bread paddle attached. Dissolve the yeast and a pinch of sugar with 1 tablespoon of the water and the sushi vinegar, then add it to the flour mixture with the remaining water, milk and oil. Knead the dough on speed 2 for 10–15 minutes, or until it forms a smooth ball that comes away from the side of the mixer bowl.
Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1–2 hours until doubled in size.
Turn the dough out on to a very lightly floured work surface and punch down. Flatten the dough with your hands, then sprinkle over the baking powder. Return the dough to the mixer and knead on speed 2 for 5 minutes to incorporate the baking powder.
Meanwhile, line a large baking sheet with baking parchment and set aside. Return the dough to the lightly floured work surface and use very lightly floured hands to roll it into a long sausage shape, about 3cm thick. Cut into 12 equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball in the palm of your hands, then leave them to rest for 2–3 minutes, uncovered, on a very lightly floured surface.
Working with one dough ball at a time, use a lightly floured rolling pin to roll out each ball into an oval, 3–4mm thick. Very lightly brush the surface of each dough oval with oil, and brush a chopstick with oil. Place the greased chopstick across the centre of the oval and fold the dough over it. Very gently pull out the chopstick.
Place the bun on the prepared baking sheet, then continue until all the buns are shaped. Cover the tray with a clean tea towel and leave the buns in a warm place for 1½ hours, or until they double in size. At this point you can steam the amount of buns you need, or freeze for later steaming.
To steam, bring a 5cm layer of water to the boil in one or two saucepans, depending on how many bamboo or stainless steel steamers you have. Position the steamer(s) in the pans, making sure they do not touch the water.
Steam the buns for 8 minutes, or until puffed up. Immediately transfer them to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. Use within two days, re-steaming for 2–3 minutes until hot.
To make the crispy crumb coating, beat the eggs and milk together in a shallow bowl. Place the flour in a shallow tray and season with salt to taste, and place the panko in another tray.
When ready to cook, heat enough vegetable oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Dip each patty first in the flour, followed by the egg mixture and then pat on the panko, making sure each is thoroughly coated. Add the patties to the oil and deep-fry for 4 minutes, or until golden brown and they float to the surface. Remove from the oil, drain well on kitchen paper and lightly sprinkle with salt. Deep-fry the patties in batches, if necessary, reheating the oil between batches.
Place the patties in the steamed buns with the wasabi mayonnaise and Malbec onions. Garnish with pea shoot cress and serve.
Spanish and Japanese foods make strange bedfellows, but sultry ones. Iberico is a Spanish breed of pig, black in colour. In Spain, pluma is the name for the feather loin cut, which is taken from the shoulder section of the loin and is ribboned with milky white fat. You don’t need much to tease out its flavour, just a little sea salt after it hits the stone. This dish is fun, greasy, delicious – a great intro to your meal if you have a large appetite.
You’ll find steak stones for sale online, and they come with the wooden plank for protecting your table top. Another option is to use massage stones.
SERVES 4
about 35g cherry wood chips (the exact amount depends on the size of your baking tray)
200g Iberico Pluma pork in one piece
vegetable oil, for brushing the hot stones
sea salt
smoked olive oil (available online), to serve
Preheat the oven to 240°C/Gas Mark 9 and heat a steak or massage stone for 20 minutes, or until searingly hot.
Meanwhile, prepare the cherry wood chips for smoking as instructed here. Place a perforated baking sheet on the smoking wood chips, add the pork, recover the tray tightly and leave to smoke for 1 minute. Set aside until cool, then thinly slice the pork on a slight angle. Equally divide the slices into 4 portions and skewer each portion with 2 metal skewers.
When the steak stone is hot, very carefully use heatproof mitts to transfer it to the wooden plank. Brush the stone with a little vegetable oil, then place the plank of wood in the centre of the table. Add the skewers, sprinkle the pork with salt to taste as soon as it hits the hot stones and let all your guests sear their own pork. Serve with smoked olive oil on the side for dipping.
CHICKEN KARAAGE WITH WASABI MAYONNAISE
Every culture has its own individual take on Chinese food, whether it’s Cantonese on the British high street or chifa in Peru. Wafu-Chuka is the Japanese interpretation of Chinese cooking, and it’s a force of nature. Hirata buns, gyoza and ramen are considered Wafu-Chuka, as is chicken karaage.
For our version of Japan’s well-known deep-fried chicken, we brine the hell out of the bird, which makes the flesh super moist. We play around a bit, adding soy to the brine and using a cereal crust to create a batter that’s seasoned with ginger, chilli, turmeric and black curry powder. The crunchy coating brings some natural sweetness to the chicken, not to mention texture. The flavour is almost as good as a trip to Tokyo.
SERVES 4
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, 150g each
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
120g white rice flour
120g rolled oats
300ml buttermilk
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
wasabi leaves, to serve, optional
coriander cress, to garnish
For the dehydrated chilli
1 long fresh red chilli, deseeded and very thinly sliced
¼ teaspoon vegetable oil
For the garlic crisps
6 garlic cloves, sliced wafer-thin, ideally using a mandolin
300ml milk
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
For the Wasabi Mayonnaise
200g Mayonnaise
1 teaspoon freshly grated peeled wasabi, or to taste (use paste if you can’t find fresh)
For the brine
500ml water
50ml dark soy sauce
3 tablespoons sea salt
For the Spice Coating
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
2 teaspoons onion salt
1½ teaspoons very finely ground Sri Lankan black curry powder
1½ teaspoons sea salt
½ teaspoon chilli powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon turmeric
The dehydrated chilli can be made up to three days in advance and stored in an airtight container until required. Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 2 and line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Toss the sliced chilli with the oil, then spread out on the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, then remove the chilli pieces from the baking sheet and leave to cool completely. Store in an airtight container until required.
The garlic crisps can be made up to two days in advance and stored in an airtight container until required. Place the garlic cloves and 100ml of the milk in a saucepan over a high heat and bring to the boil, then drain. Repeat this twice more, using 100ml fresh milk each time. After the third boiling, drain well and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Heat enough vegetable oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Add the garlic slices and deep-fry until they are crispy and float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper. Lightly sprinkle with salt. Leave to cool completely, then transfer to an airtight container.
The wasabi mayonnaise can be made up to two days in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge. Make the mayonnaise, then add the wasabi and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill until required.
Brine the chicken thighs for at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours before cooking. Mix the water, soy sauce and sea salt together in a large non-metallic container, stirring to dissolve the salt. Add the chicken thighs, making sure they are submerged, then cover and chill until required.
Meanwhile, combine all the ingredients for the spice coating in a sauté pan over a medium heat and toast for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, or until aromatic. Tip the spices out of the pan and leave to cool completely.
When ready to cook, heat enough vegetable oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Mix the rice flour and rolled oats together. Remove the chicken thighs from the brine, rinse well to remove the excess saltiness and pat dry. Cut each thigh into 2 pieces.
Coat each chicken pieces all over with the buttermilk, then pat on the rolled oat mix, making sure each piece is thoroughly coated. Add as many chicken pieces to the oil as will fit without overcrowding the pan and deep-fry for 5 minutes, or until golden and the juices run clear if you pierce a piece. Remove from the oil and drain well on kitchen paper. Sprinkle generously on both sides with the spice coating. Deep-fry the pieces in batches, if necessary, reheating the oil between batches.
Line the serving plates with wasabi leaves, if you like, then top with the fried chicken. Garnish with the dehydrated chilli, garlic crisps and coriander cress, and serve immediately, with the wasabi mayonnaise on the side.
In terms of cheese, burrata is a relatively new arrival on the scene. Produced for the first time in Apulia, Italy, on the Bianchini Farm in 1920, it was originally made from buffalo’s milk. These days, cow’s milk is more often used. To make burrata, mozzarella curd is immersed in hot water to form a pouch, which is then used to scoop up extra cream, before the aperture is tied shut with twine and the ball of cheese set aside. The end result is a gooey amalgam, which, when cut open, extrudes a slushy, creamy centre studded with stringy hunks of mozzarella.
The name really lays it out with burrata, which translates from Italian as ‘buttery’. Since burrata is already so creamy and characterful, the trick is in bracing it up. We give it ballast with Jerusalem artichoke purée and then sprinkle the whole dish with beetroot and Jerusalem artichoke crisps, which offer a textural counterpoint and something pretty to look at.
SERVES 4
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
4 raw baby beetroots, peeled
olive oil, for drizzling
rocket sprigs
4 burrata cheese balls, drained
1 lemon, halved, to serve, optional
sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
For the rosemary oil
500g baby spinach
50g fresh rosemary sprigs
rapeseed oil
For the Jerusalem artichoke crisps
1 Jerusalem artichoke
For the beetroot crisps
100g raw beetroots, sliced wafer thin, ideally using a mandolin
For the Jerusalem Artichoke Purée
250g Jerusalem artichokes
75ml milk
50ml water
25g butter
125ml double cream
The rosemary oil can be made up to one month in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge until required. Rest a freezerproof bowl that fits in your freezer inside a larger bowl filled with ice. Pick the spinach leaves from the stalks and strip the rosemary needles from the stalks. Weigh the leaves and needles combined and multiply their weight by 1.25 to determine the amount of rapeseed oil you need in millilitres.
Put the oil, spinach, rosemary and a pinch of salt in a Thermomix and set the heat to 80°C. Blitz on full speed for 45 seconds, then wipe down the inside of the Thermomix and continue blitzing on speed 3 to 4 until the temperature reaches 80°C. Once the mixture has reached the correct temperature, blitz for a further 30 seconds. (If you don’t have a Thermomix, see ALTERNATIVE TECHNIQUES IF YOU DON’T HAVE A THERMOMIX.)
Pass the oil through a sieve lined with a double layer of muslin into the freezerproof bowl and leave to cool completely. Transfer the bowl of oil to the freezer and freeze for 6 hours, or until the water molecules freeze and separate from the oil. Pour the oil into a container and chill until required.
Both the beetroot and Jerusalem artichoke crisps can be made up to two days in advance and stored in an airtight container until required.
To make the Jerusalem artichoke chips, peel and slice the Jerusalem artichoke so it’s wafer thin, ideally using a mandolin, just before you fry them to prevent browning. Heat enough oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Add the slices and deep-fry for 1–2 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Do not discard the oil. Leave to cool, then store until required.
Meanwhile, to make the beetroot crisps, lay the slices in a single layer on a non-metallic tray and sprinkle with sea salt. Leave for 10 minutes, then rinse off the excess salt and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Reheat the oil to 190°C. Add the beetroot slices and deep-fry until they are crisp and float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper. Lightly sprinkle with salt. Leave to cool completely, then store until required.
To make the Jerusalem artichoke purée, prepare the Jerusalem artichokes just before cooking to prevent them browning. Mix together 50ml of the milk and the water in a deep bowl and set aside. Peel and thinly slice the Jerusalem artichokes, immediately dropping the slices in the milk mixture. Just before you are ready to cook, drain them well and pat dry.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan with a lid over a medium heat. When it is foaming, add the Jerusalem artichokes, cover, reduce the heat to low and leave them to sweat for about 6 minutes until they are completely soft without any bite but not coloured. Add a little water, if necessary, to create an emulsion so they do not burn or colour.
Transfer the Jerusalem artichokes and any cooking liquid to a blender or food processor and blitz until smooth. Add the remaining milk and the cream, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Pass through a fine sieve into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cover the pan, remove from the heat and set aside until required.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Rub the baby beetroots with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Wrap them tightly in foil and roast for 30 minutes, or until they are soft and a skewer slides in without any resistance. Set aside and leave to cool to room temperature.
Pour some rosemary oil on to each plate and add the rocket leaves. Top each portion with a burrata cheese, then add a roasted baby beetroot and a dollop of the Jerusalem artichoke purée. Scatter over the beetroot and Jerusalem artichoke crisps and serve immediately.
When we put this on the menu it immediately became a talking point. It’s certainly a dish that will defy expectations – you likely won’t be accustomed to preparing your friendly neighbourhood crocodile when feeding guests at home.
The nutritional value of the meat is what really attracted me to it, as crocodile is both higher in protein and leaner in fat than chicken. As with many exotic meats, it does share a few properties with the aforementioned poultry, but has an interesting fishlike quality to me, and tastes a bit like swordfish. If you can only find a whole crocodile tail, rather than just small fillets, don’t despair – any leftover meat can be used in salads, stir-fries and pasta dishes.
SERVES 4
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1½ tablespoons white rice flour
400g bone marrow, cut into 12 equal pieces
4 crocodile tail fillets, each 75g
100g butter
4 Slow-cooked Eggs, cooked at least 50 minutes in advance
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Onion Powder
100g leeks, white parts only, halved and pulled apart
To garnish
unpeeled pear, cut wafer thin, ideally using a mandolin
radishes, cut wafer thin, ideally using a mandolin
baby wasabi leaves
baby watercress sprigs
The onion powder can be made up to one month in advance and stored in an airtight container until required. Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 1. Put the leeks in a small roasting tray and roast for 40 minutes, or until very soft, turning them once. Transfer the leeks to a small blender or food processor and blitz until finely ground.
Transfer the leeks to the dehydrator and leave for 2 hours. Return to the food processor or blender and blitz again, then store until required. (If you don’t have a dehydrator, see DRYING WITHOUT A DEHYDRATOR.)
Heat enough oil for deep-frying the bone marrow until it reaches 190°C and heat the oven on a low setting to keep the bone marrow warm after frying. Season the rice flour with salt to taste. Dust the bone marrow with the rice flour, shaking off any excess, then deep-fry until the pieces float to the surface and are crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper. Season with salt and pepper to taste and keep warm until required.
When ready to cook the crocodile fillets season them with salt and pepper to taste. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over a medium-high heat. When it is foaming, add the fillets and fry for 3 minutes on one side, then turn them over, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 2 minutes on the other side for medium doneness. Remove from the pan and leave to rest for 1 minute.
To serve, transfer the crocodile fillets to 4 plates. One at a time, crack an egg into your hand, allowing the white to run through your fingers. Place a yolk and 3 pieces of marrow on each plate. Sprinkle over the onion powder, then garnish with the pear and radish slices, wasabi leaves and watercress sprigs, and serve immediately.
Veal sweetbreads, or mollejas as they’re known in Spanish-speaking countries, are two separate glands. One is the thymus (located in the cow’s throat) and the other is the pancreas (which comes from the heart of the stomach). Sweetbreads are soft and creamy in texture and, if you cook them properly, reveal a really delicate flavour. During an excursion to the Pampas in Argentina to visit one of the abattoirs that furnish us with our amazing beef, I cooked lunch for the employees. We slaughtered one of the calves fresh. I went straight for the offal, putting aside the sweetbreads. I then grilled them simply, finishing them with a bit of lemon. They were outstanding, stunning. I was hooked for life. Whenever I have the chance and they’re in season and at their best, I’ll try to sneak them onto the menu… This recipe is how we pay homage to sweetbreads at M.
We juice the carrots for the freshest flavour when making the carrot sauce. If you have a juicer you will need about 250g carrots to get 125ml juice.
SERVES 4
350g veal sweetbreads, trimmed, any blood washed away and soaked in cold water to cover for 1 hour
60g butter
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60g goat’s curds
toasted (TOASTING NUTS) walnuts, crushed, to garnish
walnut oil, to drizzle
For the carrot sauce
125ml carrot juice
60ml White Chicken Stock
60g butter, diced
For the glazed baby carrots
8 baby carrots, scrubbed with the tops removed and saved for garnishing
100g butter, diced
3 tablespoons dry white wine
4 thyme sprigs, plus extra to garnish
First make the carrot sauce. Put the carrot juice and chicken stock in a saucepan over a high heat and bring to the boil. Continue boiling until the liquid reduces by three-quarters, then reduce the heat and whisk in the butter to give a good shine. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then set aside.
To glaze the baby carrots, put the carrots, butter, wine and 4 thyme sprigs in a large sauté pan over a high heat and bring to the boil, stirring to melt the butter. Reduce the heat to medium and continue simmering until the carrots are tender and the liquid has reduced to a glaze. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then cover and keep hot.
Drain the sweetbreads and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Melt the butter with the oil in a large sauté pan over a medium heat and pan-fry the sweetbreads until they are golden brown and crispy. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper, then season with salt and pepper to taste.
Meanwhile, reheat the carrot sauce.
To serve, divide the goat’s curds among 4 plates. Top with the sweetbreads and arrange the glazed carrots around. Spoon the carrot sauce around the plates, then garnish each with the walnuts and reserved carrot tops. Drizzle with walnut oil and serve immediately.
Chicken is perhaps unfairly given a pedestrian rap, but treat it properly and it’s a thing of beauty. As with our Chicken Karaage, the success of this recipe has its foundations in the brine. Brining the bird overnight imbues its flesh with an abundance of moisture, which is vital when you grill it.
The other key component in this dish is the brown butter emulsion. I picked up the recipe for the emulsion while working at Shannon Bennett’s restaurant Vue de monde, in Melbourne. Believe me, it’s a banger – essentially a contemporary interpretation of hollandaise sauce. Adding brown butter to the equation gives the dish a nuttiness rather than the run-of-the-mill richness that you find in other butter sauces. It works wonders on a brined chicken.
Don’t discard the oil used for cooking the garlic in. It’s fantastic to use for roasting potatoes and making salad dressings with.
SERVES 2
1 free-range chicken, about 1.5kg
salt and freshly ground black pepper
watercress sprigs, to garnish
For the brine
1 litre water
60g sea salt
1 rosemary sprig
1 thyme sprig
½ lemon
For the garlic purée
100g garlic cloves, outer layer peeled but left whole
vegetable oil
50ml double cream
For the brown butter emulsion
4 free-range eggs, at room temperature
4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste
500g unsalted butter, melted and kept hot
Up to 24 hours and at least 12 hours before cooking, mix all the brine ingredients together in a large non-metallic container, stirring to dissolve the salt. Add the chicken, making sure it is submerged, then cover and refrigerate until required.
The garlic purée can be made up to a day ahead and stored in a covered container in the fridge until required. First confit the garlic cloves. Put the cloves in a saucepan over a medium heat with a thermometer clipped to the side and pour in enough oil to cover them by about 1cm. If you have a heat diffuser, place that under the pan. Very slowly heat the oil until it reaches 75°C and small bubbles appear around the edge. Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain this temperature for 1 hour, or until the cloves are very soft.
Place a sieve over a bowl in the sink. When the cloves are tender, drain them and leave them until all the excess oil has dripped off. Squeeze the cloves out of their skins into a small blender, add the cream and blitz until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover and chill until required.
After the chicken has been brined, rinse it well to remove the excess saltiness and pat it dry. Place it in a steamer and steam for 1 hour, or until tender and the juices run clear when you pierce the thickest part of the thigh. If your steamer isn’t large enough to steam a whole bird, joint it into pieces that will fit. We like to steam the birds whole, however, to retain as many juices as possible.
Meanwhile, make the brown butter emulsion. Bring a kettle of water to the boil. Put the eggs in a saucepan and pour over enough boiling water so they are covered by 2.5cm. Boil the water for 3½ minutes only, then transfer the pan to the sink and place the eggs under cold running water to stop the cooking. Set aside to cool completely.
Crack one of the eggs into a small bowl, lightly beat and discard half of the beaten egg. Break the remaining eggs into a food processor and add the beaten half egg and the lemon juice, then blitz together. Slowly add the melted butter through the feed tube, drop by drop, until it is all incorporated and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aide.
Preheat the grill to high. After the chicken has steamed, transfer it to a chopping board, remove the backbone and cut the bird in half. Place the chicken pieces on a grill rack, skin sides up, and grill for 8 minutes, or until the skin is golden brown and crispy.
Divide the chicken pieces among 2 plates, add the brown butter emulsion and garlic purée. Garnish with watercress and serve immediately.
We continue to splice culinary traditions with this dish – in this case British and Japanese. The classic Brit fish is bathed in a citrus cure, to amplify its delicacy, then paired with a strong yuzu gel, chive oil for a bit of onion-flavoured heat, and with texture coming through from the orange citrus crumb. Cook it on the skin side, turn it over, take it out.
SERVES 4
4 sea bream fillets
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 pak choi, halved
80g butter, diced
½ orange
sea salt
For the Chive Oil
375ml rapeseed oil
250g chives, roughly chopped
For the Yuzu Gel
50g sugar
50ml water
½ teaspoon agar agar powder
125ml yuzu juice
For the orange panko crumbs
80g panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
75g unsalted butter, diced
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
finely grated zest of 1 orange
For the cure
1½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon fine table salt
The chive oil can be made up to one month in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge until required. Rest a freezerproof bowl that fits in your freezer inside a larger bowl filled with ice. Put the chives, oil and a pinch of salt in a Thermomix, and set the heat to 80°C. Blitz on full speed for 45 seconds, then wipe down the inside of the Thermomix and continue blitzing on speed 3 to 4 until the temperature reaches 80°C. Once the mixture has reached the correct temperature, blitz for a further 30 seconds. (If you don’t have a Thermomix, see ALTERNATIVE TECHNIQUES IF YOU DON’T HAVE A THERMOMIX.)
Pass the oil through a sieve lined with a double layer of muslin into the freezerproof bowl and leave to cool completely. Transfer the bowl of oil to the freezer and freeze for 6 hours, or until the water molecules freeze and separate from the oil. Pour the oil into an airtight container and chill until required.
The yuzu gel can be made up to three days in advance and stored in the fridge in a squeezy bottle or piping bag fitted with a small round tip until required. Rinse a shallow baking tray with water, then tip out the water but do not dry the tray. Clip a thermometer to the inside of a small saucepan.
Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over a high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and bring just to 100°C. Add the agar agar powder and whisk constantly for 2 minutes until the powder dissolves completely – put some of the mixture in a clean spoon and look closely for any specks of agar agar. Do not boil. Whisk in the yuzu juice. Pour the mixture into the prepared tray and leave to cool completely. Cover and chill until set. (You can speed the setting process by putting the baking tray in a sink of iced water.)
Once the yuzu-flavoured agar agar is set, cut it into cubes. Place in a small blender or food processor and blitz, then pass through a fine sieve. Transfer to a squeezy bottle or piping bag fitted with a small tip and chill until required.
To make the orange panko crumbs, put all the ingredients in a food processor and blitz until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Toast the crumbs in a hot sauté pan over a medium heat, stirring until golden and crisp. Set aside to cool completely.
Cure the sea bream just before cooking. Mix the sugar and salt together in a non-metallic bowl. Arrange the fillets, skin side down, in a single layer on a non-metallic tray and cover the flesh sides with the cure mixture. Leave for 8 minutes, then rinse the fillets well and dry well.
Put the oil and fish fillets, skin side down, in a cold sauté pan over a medium heat and fry for 4 minutes, or until the skin is golden and crisp. Gently flip the fillets over and fry for a further 30 seconds, or until tender. Drain well on kitchen paper and keep hot.
Add the pak choi to the hot pan and fry until tender and lightly brown. Deglaze the pan with the juice from the ½ orange. Remove the pak choi and drain on kitchen paper.
To serve, drizzle thin lines of yuzu gel in a circular motion on 4 plates, then drizzle the chive oil between the lines. Place the pak choi on the plate, top with the sea bream fillets and sprinkle over the orange panko crumbs. Serve immediately.
This is a mix of really great flavours. The lamb is the true hero here, but the goat’s curd, rosemary and milk crumbs add a real depth to the dish. At the moment I’m loving Barnsley lamb.
SERVES 4
four 2-rib lamb cutlets, at room temperature
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
280g carrots, peeled and cut into ‘ribbons’ using a mandolin or meat slicer, to garnish
watercress sprigs, to garnish
160ml Red Wine Jus, hot
For the carrot purée
15g unsalted butter
185g carrots, peeled and very thinly sliced
1 tablespoon water
50ml whipping cream
For the rosemary milk crumb
65g unsalted butter, chilled
2 tablespoons milk powder
½ teaspoon finely chopped rosemary needles
75ml crème fraîche
75g goat’s curd
To make the carrot purée, melt the butter in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat. Add the carrots and water, cover and steam until the carrots are very tender. Uncover and leave any excess liquid to evaporate over a very low heat.
Add the cream to the pan and bring to the boil. Transfer to a small food processor and blitz until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then set aside for reheating when required.
To make the rosemary milk crumb, melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat until it turns golden brown. Add the milk powder and whisk constantly until the milk solids turn golden – watch closely so they don’t catch on the bottom of the pan and burn. Add the rosemary needles, then pass through a fine sieve.
Tip the milk curds left in the sieve on to kitchen paper and leave to drain. When they are dry, mix them with the crème fraîche and goat’s curd. Cover and chill until required.
When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Heat a dry, ovenproof sauté pan over a high heat. Add the cutlets, fat side down, and sear to colour the fat. Season the cutlets with salt and pepper to taste, then roast for 8 minutes for medium-rare. Leave the cutlets to rest for 5 minutes, covered with kitchen foil, then cut each into 2 chops.
To serve, spread the carrot purée on 4 plates and add the red wine jus to the base of the carrot purée in a little pool, and serve extra in a jug on the side if desired. Add the carrot strips and top with the chops. Add a quenelle of rosemary milk crumb to each portion, garnish with watercress and serve immediately.
This Japanese-inspired dish is almost zen in its simplicity. We take a classic dashi stock and finish it with tarè – the ultimate Japanese seasoning. It’s the perfect complement for lightly steamed monkfish.
SERVES 4
720g monkfish tail fillet, the thin grey membrane rubbed off and cut into 4 equal pieces
4 baby carrots, peeled and halved
4 baby leeks, trimmed
4 baby radishes, trimmed and quartered
8 sugar snap peas
1 pak choi, quartered
1 teaspoon furikake
For the dashi
6 black peppercorns
4 fresh red chillies, deseeded and sliced
2 lemongrass stalks, bruised
a pinch of saffron threads
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 head of fennel, trimmed and thinly sliced
1cm piece of galangal, peeled and chopped
1 garlic clove, sliced
1 leek, white part only, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
6 black peppercorns
500ml water
200ml dry white wine
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
Tarè, to taste
1 bunch of coriander
1 bunch of tarragon
First make the dashi, which will keep in a covered container for up to three days in the fridge, or can be frozen for up to three months.
Put all the ingredients, except the tarè, coriander and tarragon, in a large saucepan and slowly bring to the boil. As soon as the liquid boils, add the fresh coriander and tarragon and remove the pan from the heat. Cover and leave to infuse for one hour. Drain the dashi into another pan and discard the flavouring ingredients.
When you’re ready to cook, return the dashi to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, so the liquid just simmers. and adjust the seasoning with 2–3 tablespoons tarè per 1 litre of broth. Add the monkfish pieces and simmer for 8 minutes, or until they are tender and a toothpick slides in without any resistance. Immediately, transfer the monkfish to a platter and leave to rest while you poach the vegetables.
Add all the baby vegetables, sugar snap peas and pak choi to the pan, and return the liquid to the boil. Use a slotted spoon to remove the individual vegetables from the pan when they are tender.
To serve, place the monkfish fillets in 4 bowls, then add the poached vegetables and ladle over the boiling dashi, dividing it equally among the bowls. Sprinkle over the furikake and serve immediately.
GINGER AND LEMONGRASS SAGO PUDDINGS
Mangos have always been evocative of childhood for me, as there was a mango tree next to my grandparents’ house in Carricaou, a Grenadine island in the Caribbean, and it was always heavy with fruit. We used to pick them straight off the branch and eat them au naturel. They were so sweet and flavoursome that to add anything would be an insult to the mango. I’ve been obsessed by mangos for as long as I remember and the scent and flavour always send me back. This dessert is perfect for a hot summer evening. It’s light and cleansing and you can down three bowls of it and still want to go back for more.
SERVES 4
150g dried sago or tapioca, soaked overnight in cold water to cover
250ml whole milk
125ml double cream
2 vanilla pods, split
1 lemongrass stalk, bruised
125g sugar
20g fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
diced fresh mangos, to serve
coriander cress, to decorate
rice krispies, to decorate
For the mango sorbet
125g mango purée
125g sugar
125ml water
1 tablespoon glucose syrup
For the sabayon
4 free-range egg yolks
6½ tablespoons sugar
200ml whipping cream
The mango sorbet can be made up to three months in advance and frozen until required. Combine the mango purée, sugar, water and glucose syrup in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and glucose. Bring to the boil and boil for 2 minutes, without stirring. Remove from the heat and leave to cool completely.
Pour the mixture into an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instruction. (If you don’t have an ice-cream machine, see MAKING ICE CREAM WITHOUT AN ICE CREAM MACHINE.) Cover and freeze until it’s required.
The pudding can be made up to two days in advance and chilled until required. First make the sabayon. Clip a thermometer to the inside of a saucepan. Lightly beat the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl and set aside.
Put the sugar in the pan over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and boil, without stirring but swirling the pan occasionally, until the syrup reaches 125°C. Watch very closely so it doesn’t burn. Immediately pour the syrup in a thin stream over the egg yolks, whisking constantly until the mixture cools, then set aside.
Beat the cream in a separate bowl until soft peaks form. Fold the cream into the egg-yolk mixture, then cover and chill until required.
Drain the sago. Transfer it to a saucepan with the milk, cream, vanilla pods, lemongrass, sugar and ginger, and bring to the boil, stirring. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the sago is soft. Remove the vanilla pods and lemongrass stalk and leave to cool completely before folding in the sabayon. Cover and chill.
Remove the sorbet from the freezer 15 minutes before serving to soften slightly. Just before serving, fold half the fresh mango through the pudding. Divide among 4 serving glasses or bowls. Top each portion with a scoop of mango sorbet, add the remaining fresh mango and decorate with coriander cress and rice krispies. Serve immediately.
This recipe was inspired by a sweet Spanish delicacy named Tocino de Cielo (which translates as ‘bacon of heaven’) and is spiked with a little Asian flavour, namely ginger. It’s a feel good dessert, in that you feel good afterwards, there’s nothing heavy or cloying about it. It’s perfect for ending the evening on a lighter note.
SERVES 8
coconut oil, for spraying
1 gelatine leaf
225g sugar
190ml water
180g free-range egg yolks
3 free-range egg whites
Granola, to serve
For the raspberry sorbet
125g raspberry purée
125g caster sugar
125ml water
1 tablespoon glucose syrup
1 vanilla pod, split
For the ginger purée
120g fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon fine table salt
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
The raspberry sorbet can be made up to three months in advance and frozen until required. Combine the raspberry purée, sugar, water and glucose syrup in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the vanilla pod and bring to the boil, without stirring. Remove from the heat as soon as it boils and leave to cool completely. Pour the mixture into an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instruction. Cover and freeze until it’s required. (If you don’t have an ice-cream machine, see MAKING ICE CREAM WITHOUT AN ICE CREAM MACHINE.)
The ginger purée can be made up to a week in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge until required. To make the purée, put the grated ginger in a small food processor and blitz for about 30 seconds until it forms a thick paste. Do not remove the liquid that gets generated during the blitzing process. Add the sugar and salt and blitz for a further 10 seconds. Add the lemon juice and blitz again. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside until required.
To make the tocinos, preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 1. Spray eight 125ml disposable foil moulds, shaped like deep ramekins, with coconut oil and arrange them in a deep ovenproof container, such as a baking tray or dish, and set aside.
Soften the gelatine leaf in a bowl of cold water to cover for at least 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the sugar and water in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil, without stirring. Add the ginger purée. Remove the gelatine leaf with your hand and squeeze out the excess water, then stir it into the mixture and set aside to cool completely.
Bring a kettle of water to the boil.
Whisk the egg yolks and whites together in a large bowl until thick, then add the cool ginger purée mixture.
Equally divide the tocino mixture among the moulds. Pour enough boiling water into the ovenproof container to come half way up the sides of the moulds, then cover the top with kitchen foil. Bake for 25 minutes, or until set, but still slightly wobbly in the centres. Remove the moulds from the water bath and set aside to cool completely. Everybody’s ovens are slightly different, so keep a close eye and do the wobble test at around 20 minutes and adjust cooking time if necessary.
Remove the sorbet from the freezer 15 minutes before serving to soften slightly.
When you are ready to serve, invert a foil mould in to a serving bowl and poke a little hold in it with a small knife, then carefully lift off the mould. Repeat with the remaining tocinos, then add a scoop of raspberry sorbet to each and sprinkle with the granola. Serve immediately.
From the Argentines I’ve canvassed (to this day I’ve never met an Argentine vegan or vegetarian – I’m not sure if they exist), I’ve found they primarily subsist on three different types of food: beef, pasta and dulce de leche. I can’t say in which order, and am not brave enough to decide.
During one of my trips to Buenos Aires I was invited to an asado, a kind of Argentine barbecue meat orgy, at a friend’s house. After eating my body weight in beef they rolled out the most delicious medley of dulce de leche delicacies, sending me face first into the happiest food coma. Dulce de leche flan was probably the most pleasant of all and became an instant favourite on our menu.
MAKES 8
120g free-range egg yolks, at room temperature
60g free-range egg whites, at room temperature
500ml whole milk
500g dulce de leche, plus extra for decorating
For the Coconut Crumble
50g unsalted butter, chilled and diced
50g plain white flour
50g desiccated coconut
50g sugar
For the Italian meringue
200g sugar
75ml water
100g free-range egg whites, at room temperature
For the caramel
200g sugar
200ml water
The coconut crumble can be made up to three days in advance and stored in an airtight container until required. Preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3 and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Combine the ingredients in a small food processor until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Sprinkle the crumb mixture over the baking parchment and bake for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Watch closely so the mixture does not overbrown.
Tip the crumbs out of the baking tray and leave to cool completely. Crumble with your fingers until fine crumbs form, then set aside until required.
The Italian meringue can be made up to two days in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge until required. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan with a thermometer attached over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil, without stirring, and as soon as it reaches the boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 5 minutes, without stirring, or until the syrup reaches 125°C.
Meanwhile, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until they are stiff enough to hold a ribbon on the surface when the beaters are lifted. Slowly pour the hot syrup into the egg whites, beating constantly, until a stiff meringue forms. Leave to cool completely.
Next make the caramel for the base of the moulds. Combine the sugar with the water in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil without stirring, then continue to boil, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel turns a rich golden brown. Watch very closely so it doesn’t burn. Immediately divide the caramel among the bases of eight 125ml disposable foil moulds, shaped like deep ramekins, then set aside.
When you are ready to bake the flans, preheat the oven to 130°C/Gas Mark ½ and arrange the moulds in a deep ovenproof container, such as a baking tray or dish. Beat the egg yolks and whites together in a heatproof bowl and set aside.
Bring a kettle of water to the boil.
Combine the milk and dulce de leche in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, stirring constantly to avoid the dulce de leche catching on the bottom of the pan and burning. Slowly pour the hot dulce de leche mixture over the beaten eggs, whisking constantly. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a measuring jug to make it easier to fill the moulds.
Equally divide the dulce de leche mixture among the moulds. Pour enough boiling water into the ovenproof container to come half way up the sides of the moulds, then cover the top of the large container with kitchen foil. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the flans are set but still slightly wobbly in the centres. Remove the flans from the water bath and set aside to cool completely.
To serve, smear the Italian meringue on the serving plates, then caramelise using a blowtorch. Invert a flan on to each plate, then very gently press the tip of a knife into the top of each foil mould, taking care not to press the knife down into the flans or you will leave a cut mark that will give you a less-than-professional presentation. Very gently lift off the foil moulds. Dot the extra dulce de leche around the plates and sprinkle each flan with the coconut crumble. Serve immediately.
Before we launched M, I embarked upon a lengthy study of South African cuisine, as it’s actually the only country represented on our menu that I haven’t yet visited. Martin has a deep affection for the country and spoke fondly of Cape Malva puddings, which piqued my curiosity, but I wasn’t quite convinced. I then double checked with our Head Chef Jarad, about as proud a South African as you’ll find, who assured me that we were on to a winner. The sweet, spongy pudding is one of the most iconic and traditional desserts that you’ll find in South Africa. We give it our own signature touch with home-made Amarula ice cream.
SERVES 8
120g butter, diced and at room temperature, plus extra for greasing
560g white cake flour
4 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
scant 1 teaspoon fine table salt
300g sugar
4 free-range eggs, lightly beaten
180g apricot jam, melted and at room temperature
80ml distilled white vinegar
500ml milk
frozen or fresh raspberries, to decorate
For the Amarula ice cream
6 free-range egg yolks, at room temperature
50g sugar
250ml double cream
250ml milk
4 tablespoons Amarula liqueur
For the Malva sauce
300ml double cream
300ml water
300g sugar
100g butter, diced
60g apricot jam
3 tablespoons vanilla extract
The Amarula ice cream can be made up to three months in advance and frozen until required. Put the egg yolks and sugar in bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water, without letting the bottom touch the water, and whisk until the mixture is thick enough to hold the figure-of-8 when the beaters are lifted.
Bring the double cream, milk and Amarula liqueur to the simmer in a separate pan. Slowly whisk this mixture into the egg mixture, then continue whisking over a low heat until the mixture thickens again. Strain the mixture into an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions until required. (If you don’t have an ice cream machine, see MAKING ICE CREAM WITHOUT AN ICE CREAM MACHINE.)
To make the pudding, preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 3. Line a 30 x 20cm baking tin with greaseproof paper and butter the paper. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and salt together, then set aside.
Cream the butter and sugar together in a food processor until light and fluffy. Slowly add the eggs through the feed tube. When they are incorporated, add the jam and vinegar and continue processing until blended. Add the flour mixture, alternating with the milk, until both are incorporated and the mixture has a dropping consistency.
Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and smooth the surface. Bake for 45 minutes–1 hour until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool slightly.
Remove the ice cream from the freezer 15 minutes before serving to soften.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and slowly bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then boil for 5 minutes, without stirring. Set aside and keep warm.
To serve, cut the pudding into 16 equal triangles. Spoon some sauce in the middle of each plate and add 2 pieces of pudding to each. Add a scoop of ice cream, decorate with berries and serve immediately, with the remaining sauce in a jug for adding at the table. If the pudding needs reheating, preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3. After you cut the pudding into triangles, put the pieces on a baking sheet and warm through for about 4 minutes.
Chocolate mousse is easy to whip up, easy to eat and easily one of the most popular desserts. We give ours a bit of ballast and sophistication by pouring it into a pastry case, adding a sweet chestnut purée, creamy butternut squash ice cream and some beautiful squash skins as a decoration. It’s the perfect end to a meal when the weather is wintry.
SERVES 8–10
175g dark chocolate with 64% cocoa solids, chopped
5 free-range egg yolks, at room temperature
95g sugar
275ml whipping cream
sea salt
For the butternut squash ice cream and crispy squash skins
250g butternut squash, cut into wedges
5 free-range egg yolks, at room temperature
80g caster sugar
375ml whole milk
250ml double cream
1 cinnamon stick
1½ teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
½ vanilla pod, split
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
60g soft light brown sugar
vegetable oil, for deep-frying the squash skins
For the chestnut purée
350g roasted chestnuts, peeled
400ml water
160g sugar
½ vanilla pod, split
75ml double cream, plus a little extra if needed
For the pastry case
450g white plain flour, plus extra for dusting
150g icing sugar
200g unsalted butter, chilled and diced
2 free-range eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten
For the chocolate mirror glaze
1½ gelatine leaves
90g sugar
75ml double cream
70ml water
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
The butternut squash ice cream can be made up to three months in advance and frozen until required. First roast the squash to make a purée, which should be done early in the day so the skins have time to be fried and dry.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3. Wrap the squash pieces in kitchen foil with salt to taste, then roast for 1 hour, or until very tender. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Use a spoon to scoop out and discard the seeds. Scrape all the flesh from the skins and set the skins aside. Transfer the squash flesh to a small food processor and blitz until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve, then set aside until required.
To make the ice cream, put the egg yolks and caster sugar in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water, without letting the bottom touch the water, and whisk until the mixture is thick enough of hold the figure-of-8 when the beaters are lifted.
In a separate pan, bring the whole milk, double cream, cinnamon stick, fresh ginger, vanilla pod, cinnamon, nutmeg and a pinch of salt to the boil. Slowly whisk this mixture into the egg mixture, then continue whisking until the mixture thickens again.
Pass the mixture though a fine sieve into a bowl sitting in a larger bowl of ice. Add the brown sugar while the mixture is still hot, stirring continuously until smooth and cool. Pour the mixture into an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions until required. (To make ice cream without an ice-cream machine, see MAKING ICE CREAM WITHOUT AN ICE CREAM MACHINE.)
To make the crispy squash skins for the decoration, heat enough vegetable oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Pat the squash skins very dry. Add the skins to the oil and deep-fry for 3 minutes, or until they float to the surface and are crispy. Drain well on kitchen paper. Transfer to a dehydrator and leave for at least 4 hours. (If you don’t have a dehydrator, see DRYING WITHOUT A DEHYDRATOR.) Sprinkle lightly with salt, then transfer to an airtight container until required.
The chestnut purée can be made up to three days in advance and stored in a covered container in the fridge. Combine the chestnuts, water, sugar and vanilla pod in a saucepan over a high heat, and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to low and leave to simmer for 30 minutes, without stirring, until three-quarters of the liquid has evaporated and the chestnuts are glazed. Strain away any remaining liquid and remove the vanilla pod.
Transfer the chestnuts to a blender or food processor and blitz until a smooth purée forms. Slowly add the cream until the purée has a coating consistency. Strain through a fine sieve and leave to cool completely, then cover and chill until required. It will become firmer as it chills so you might need to thin with extra cream.
Make the pastry case and fill it at least 6½ hours before you plan to serve so the filling has time to set, but it can be made up to one day in advance and chilled until required. To make the pastry, sift the flour and icing sugar into a food processor. Add the butter and mix in short blasts until breadcrumbs form. Add the eggs and continue mixing just until the dough comes together. Do not over-mix! Shape the dough into a ball, wrap in clingfilm and chill for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Use a lightly floured rolling pin to roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface until it is about 3mm thick. Use it to line a 25cm tart tin with a removable base that is about 5cm deep. Trim the edge and prick the bottom of the pastry.
Line the pastry with greaseproof paper and fill with baking beans or rice. Bake for 12 minutes, or until the pastry is just set. Remove the paper and beans, then return to the oven and bake for a further 4 minutes, or until crisp. Leave to cool in the tin on a wire rack.
Make the chocolate mousse filling at least 6 hours before you plan to serve. Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, without the base of the bowl touching the water. Set aside until required.
Lightly beat the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl. Put the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and boil, without stirring, but swirling the pan occasionally, until the syrup reaches 120°C. Watch closely so it doesn’t burn. Immediately pour the sugar syrup in a thin stream over the egg yolks, whisking constantly until the mixture cools to 50°C and holds a figure-of-eight when the beaters are lifted. Set aside to cool.
Beat the cream in a separate bowl until soft peaks form. Beat one-third of the whipped cream into the cool egg yolk mixture to lighten. Beat in half of the still-warm melted chocolate, then beat in another third of the whipped cream. Gently and quickly fold in the remaining chocolate and then the whipped cream. Add a pinch of salt, or to taste.
Pour the creamy mousse into the pastry case. Run a metal spatula under hot water, then dry completely. Use the spatula to smooth the mixture into the pastry. If there are any air bubbles, use a blowtorch to remove them – the heat across the surface will eliminate any bubbles for a smooth finish. Transfer to the fridge for at least 6 hours to chill and set.
To make the chocolate mirror glaze, first soften the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water to cover for at least 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the sugar, cream, water and cocoa powder in a saucepan over a medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and cocoa. Simmer until smooth and blended.
Remove the gelatine leaves from the water with your hand and squeeze out the excess water. Stir them into the simmering chocolate mixture until dissolved. Strain through a fine sieve to remove any lumps. Leave to cool to room temperature. Slowly pour the glaze over the surface of the tart, gently tilting the tart to spread the glaze – don’t touch it. Leave to set at cool room temperature. If you put it in the fridge the shine will dull, but you can bring it back by lightly using a blowtorch.
Remove the ice cream from the freezer 15 minutes before serving to soften slightly.
When you’re ready to serve, swipe a spoonful of chestnut purée across each of the plates. Run a knife under hot water and wipe dry. Cut the tart into 8–10 slices and transfer one slice to each plate. For a professional finish, rinse and dry the knife after each slice. Top each slice with a scoop of ice cream, decorate with the crispy squash skins and serve immediately.
