Perched high above Vila Nova de Gaia, this spectacular 17th-century monastery gazes out over the terracotta-tiled roofs of the port lodges below and across the Douro to Ribeira, Porto’s colourful quayside and historic heart of the city. From here, Sir Arthur Wellesley (who later became the Duke of Wellington) planned to drive the French from the city in 1809. Like many of Porto’s old religious buildings, the monastery was taken over by the military during the 19th century, first by Wellington and later by Napoleon. It remains to this day a military barracks, and tours of its unusual circular church and cloister are often led by a soldier.
Largo Aviz • www.culturanorte.pt • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am to 5:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm €2 or €4 including the dome (concessions for students and over 65s; children under 12 free)
Spiral stairs ascend to the domed cupola that surmounts the circular church. The 104 steps that lead to the dome’s viewing terrace are a challenge, but the reward is a breathtaking panorama of the city.
The monastery’s Augustinian friars gathered in this simple, whitewashed chamber to discuss the issues of the day and to receive their tasks and penances from their abbot.
The church’s main altar, in the apse, is in quite restrained Renaissance style. Around it, four altars set in niches display the more elaborate carving and gilt work typical of Porto’s churches.
Emulating the design of the Church of Santa Maria Redonda in Rome, four chapels sprout from the unusual circular cloister, where a ring of 36 columns surrounds a central fountain.
The graceful arc of the imposing Ponte Luís I bridge, spanning the River Douro, dominates the view of the city from this tranquil terrace outside the monastery.
This user-friendly overview is a fascinating insight into the history and culture of Porto, the Douro and the many UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Portugal’s beautiful north.
The monastery’s friars, sworn to a life of poverty and contemplation, slept in the basic cells that line either side of this spartan corridor, each lit by a tiny window.
A figure of St Augustine, founder of the monastic order to which the church once belonged, stands in the cloister, flanked by statues of St Eulalia and St Apollonia.
The monastery’s elegant 20-m (66-ft) bell tower that rises high above the north wing is dwarfed by the massive silhouette of the 36-m (118-ft) church itself.
The statue of Afonso Henrique, first king of Portugal (1139–85), which stands proudly outside the chapter room, is the work of Porto’s famous sculptor, António Soares dos Reis.