VILA NOVA DE GAIA
Temptingly close to Porto proper, Vila Nova da Gaia’s waterfront beckons from the south bank of the Douro. It is easy to reach on foot from the city centre by strolling across the Ponte Dom Luís I or by hopping on a shuttle ferry at Cais de Estiva, and it richly repays the journey with historic wineries and riverside viewpoints. Vila Nova is a new town only when compared with Porto’s early medieval core, although hardly anything remains of the Roman-Visigothic city that stood here until the Ummayad conquest in the 8th century. It played a key role in the 18th-century wine trade with England, as many port barons were keen to make use of it’s convenient waterside location.
1. Cais de Gaia
Numerous bars and cafés line Vila Nova da Gaia’s attractive waterfront, which is also a delightful place for a leisurely walk offering some great views. Traditional barcos rabelos, the lateen-rigged sail boats that once carried cargoes of port wine downriver from the Douro vineyards to the warehouses of Vila Nova da Gaia for export to Britain and all over the world are still moored along the quaysides.
Azulejo tiles, Vila Nova de Gaia
2. Igreja de Santa Marinha
Largo de Santa Marinha • 223 795 385 • Open irregularly
The prolific Nicolau Nasoni, architect of many of Porto’s fine churches, redesigned this attractive small church in the Baroque style in 1745 on the site of an older 14th- century chapel. He retained its original decorated altarpieces and altar but added the azulejo tilework.
Nave of the Igreja de Santa Marinha
3. Jardim do Morro
Ave da Republica
There is a stunning view from this small hilltop park at the upper end of Vila Nova da Gaia’s cable car and opposite the Mosteiro de Serra do Pilar. Palm trees and green parakeets brighten the gardens, and it is a great place to snap the Ponte Dom Luís I.
4. Convento de Corpus Christi
Largo de Aljubarrota 13 • 223 742 262 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
This gracious former monastery was founded in 1345 by a wealthy local noblewoman, Dona Maria Mendes Petite, who gave it to nuns of the Dominican order. Its most striking element is a domed octagonal chapel with four richly decorated side altars and an elaborate coffered ceiling embellished with paintings of saints and key figures of the order. The west wing, built in 1940, houses the Friar Manuel Pinto da Fonseca Foundation, part of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.
5. Teleférico de Gaia
Cais de Gaia • Open Mar, Apr & Oct: 10am–7pm daily; May–Sep: 10am–8pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–6pm daily • Adm • www.gaiacablecar.com
There is a fantastic bird’s-eye view of the Douro and the city from this cable car, which takes five minutes to ascend from the riverside at Cais de Gaia to its upper terminus at the Jardim de Morro, close to the upper deck of the Ponte Dom Luís I.
The Teleférico de Gaia cable cars
6. Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar
Founded in the 16th century by the Augustinian order, the Serra do Pilar monastery took more than 70 years to build. It was garrisoned by both British and French troops during their battle for Porto in 1809, and by Liberal forces during the Siege of Porto in 1832. Although open to the public, it is still used as a military headquarters. The monastery’s unusual circular church is one of Vila Nova da Gaia’s most identifiable landmarks. There are daily tours of the complex, and the view of the Douro, the Porto quaysides and the Ponte Dom Luís I from here is truly spectacular.
The circular façade of the monastery church at night
7. Casa-Museu Teixeira Lopes
Rua de Teixeira Lopes 32 • 223 742 904 • Open for tours only: 9am–12:30pm & 2–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–noon & 2–5pm Sat, 10am–noon & 2–5pm Sun • Adm
This mansion, originally the home of Porto architect José Teixeira Lopes, offers a glimpse into the lifestyle of the 19th-century upper classes and also houses an extensive collection of sculpture created by the architect’s brother, António Teixeira Lopes.
8. Reserva Natural Estuario do Douro
Ave Deoceliano Monteiro • www.parquebiologico.pt
Ospreys soar above while white egrets and spoonbills stalk the shallows and kingfishers dart above the water at this 20-ha (49-acre) nature reserve within sight of the city centre. Wooden walkways lead around a range of habitats and along a long stretch of sandy beach backed by dunes, which are dotted with wildflowers in spring and summer.
9. Centro Interpretativo do Patrimonio da Afurada
Rua Antonio dos Santos 10 • Open 10am–12:30pm & 1:30–6pm daily • www.parquebiologico.pt/centro-interpretativo-do-patrimonio-da-afurada
Getting to the charming fishing community of Sao Pedro de Afurada, downriver from the centre of Vila Nova da Gaia, can be an experience in its own right, with a fine view of the Ponte da Arrábida from the deck of the ferry that shuttles passengers across the river. The interpretive centre, with its collection of costumes, boats, ship models and old-fashioned fishing equipment, offers a window on to a way of life now long gone.
10. Mercado Beira-Rio
Open May–Sep: 10am–midnight Sun–Wed, 10–2am Thu–Sat; Oct-Apr: 10am–11pm Sun–Wed, 10am–midnight Thu–Sat • www.mercadobeirario.pt
This rejuvenated fresh produce market close to the Douro river offers visitors the chance to share a table with locals. It’s a great spot to sample myriad sweet and savoury local delicacies, such as toucinho do céu, tarte de amêndoa, alheira and, of course, the obligatory francesinha, at its many food and drink stalls while listening to live music and poetry readings.
PORT WINE
Spread across the hill below Serra do Pilar are many of Vila Nova’s port lodges. Port developed in the 18th century, when English merchants added brandy to Douro wines to prevent them from going sour on the voyage home. Brandy also added sweetness, which appealed to the British. Modern port makers have refined their ageing and blending methods to create an array of styles.
A DAY IN VILA NOVA DE GAIA
MORNING
Cross the Douro from Baixa to Vila Nova da Gaia by the Ponte Dom Luís I – pausing to admire the view – for a one-hour conducted tour of the Mosteiro do Serra do Pilar and its landmark round church. From its terrace, it is possible to imagine General Arthur Wellesley, soon to become Duke of Wellington, gazing across the river planning the liberation of Porto from the French in 1809. Then cross Avenida da Republica to the Jardim do Morro and the upper station of the Teleférico de Gaia for a five-minute aerial ride down to the river bank. Stroll along the Cais de Gaia riverfront for lunch at De Castro and share a platter of petiscos.
AFTERNOON
Cross Largo da Miguel Bombarda to the Sandeman wine cellar, where, above the entrance, the unmistakable silhouette of the trademark Sandeman Don, in sombrero and ankle-length cloak, greets visitors to one of Gaia’s great wine lodges. Allow a couple of hours for an escorted tour and a tasting of up to five luscious ports from their Douro vineyards, lovingly aged in historic cellars, then visit Espaço Porto Cruz for a 30-minute virtual reality flight over the city and the Douro valley. Finally, hop aboard a Douro river taxi for a sunset mini-cruise back to the Cais da Ribeira and have dinner and a glass of wine overlooking Vila Nova de Gaia before turning in for the evening.
The Best of the Rest
1. Cantinho das Aromáticos
Rua da Meiral 508 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–6pm Sat–Sun • www.cantinhodosaromaticos.pt
Herbs, tea bushes and shrubs grow in tidy green rows on this organic farm, which conducts research into the cultivation of aromatic plants.
2. Parque Biológico de Gaia
Rua Biológico de Gaia • Open 10am–7pm daily • www.parquebiologico.pt
Families can meet creatures great and small in the grounds of this former farm, encompassing pools, streams, woodland and meadows.
3. Zoo Santo Inácio
Rua 5 de Outubro • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.zoosantoinacio.com
The Asian lions are the pride of Vila Nova da Gaia’s zoo, along with other endangered species such as snow leopards and Siberian tigers.
4. Praia da Madalena
Rua do Mar 450
With blue flag status indicating high standards of cleanliness, this is one Porto’s favourite beaches.
5. Capela do Senhor da Pedra
Alameda do Senhor da Pedra
This unusual six-sided chapel is at its most picturesque around sunset.
Capela do Senhor da Pedra
6. World of Wine
Rua do Choupelo • Hours vary, check website • www.wow.pt
Scheduled to open in summer 2020, World of Wine is set to become the city’s biggest purpose-built visitor attraction, with five museums covering history, wine production, fashion and design, drinking vessels and Portugal’s cork industry.
7. Estação Litoral da Aguda
Rue Dr Alfrédo Dias • Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–6pm daily • www.fundacao-ela.pt
Inside this modern aquarium, dozens of denizens of the waters off Porto’s shores lurk in tanks that re-create their natural marine habitats. There is also a small maritime museum.
8. Clube Golf de Miramar
Ave Sacadura Cabral • Open 8:30am–8pm daily • Adm • www.cgm.pt
Founded in 1832, this challenging nine-hole, par-70 seaside course was laid out by renowned Scottish designer Philip Mackenzie Ross, pioneer of golf in Portugal and Spain.
9. Cockburn’s Port Lodge
Rua Serpa do Pinto 346 • Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm daily • Adm • www.cockburns.com
This cathedral of port is the largest of Vila Nova da Gaia’s traditional lodges featuring vaulted cellars filled with thousands of mighty vats.
10. Private Sailing Tour
River Sou: Douro Marina, Rua da Praia; adm; www.riversoul-turismo-fluvial.webnode.pt
A private cruise on the Douro is a great way to see the Vila Nova da Gaia and Cais da Ribeira from the water.
Vila Nova Wine Cellars
1. Sandeman
Largo Miguel Bombarda 47 • Open Mar–Oct: 10am–8pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–6pm daily • Adm • www.sandeman.eu
The four different tours here include samplings of up to five wines, while the brand’s history can be discovered for free in the Sandeman Hall.
Sandeman wine cellar
2. Graham’s
Rua do Agro 141 • Open by reservation only • Adm • www.grahams.port.com
Within the solid granite walls of this 19th-century lodge wines mature in more than 2,000 casks and oak vats, while vintage port slumbers for years.
3. Taylor’s
Rua do Choupelo • Open 10am–7:30pm daily • Adm • www.taylor.pt
Tastings of two very different ports from opposite ends of the spectrum round off the self-guided audio tour that lets guests explore this cellar, founded in 1692, at their own pace.
4. Ferreira
Ave Ramos Pinto 70 • Open 10am–6pm daily • winetourism.sogrape.com
Learn the story of “La Ferreirinha”, who turned the business into a 19th-century success story.
5. Cálem
Ave Diogo Leite 344 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–6pm daily • Adm • www.calem.pt
With its ranks of red-tiled, white-washed warehouses, Cálem is the archetypal Gaia port lodge.
6. Offley
Rua de Choupelo 54 • 223 740 672 • Open Mar–Nov: 10am–12:30pm & 2–6pm daily • Adm • winetourism.sogrape.com
The story of Joseph James Forrester’s role in the growth of the port trade is at the heart of a visit to this lodge.
7. Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314 • Open 10:15am–4:15pm daily • Adm • www.realcompanhiavelha.pt
This modern visitor centre focuses on the history of the largest wine maker in the Douro region. It also explores the area’s many grape varieties.
8. Espaço Porto Cruz
Largo Miguel Bombarda 23 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun • www.espacoportocruz.pt
Visitors can take a state-of-the-art virtual reality aerial journey over the vine-covered Douro Valley here.
9. Churchill’s
Rua do Fonte Nova 5 • Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www.churchills-port.com
Founded in 1981, this boutique winery offers a tasting tour which reveals Churchill’s mission to “rethink port wine” by creating lighter ports.
10. Croft
Rua Barao de Forrester 412 • Open 10am–7:30pm daily • Adm • www.croftport.com
In business since 1588, Croft is the oldest port house, and its cellars are evocative of the industry’s past.
Tascas and Tabernas
1. Taberninha do Manel
Ave Diogo Leite 308 • 223 953 549 • Closed Mon
Petiscos at this well-priced restaurant range from bowls of shrimp and mussels to charcuterie platters.
Petiscos at Taberninha do Manel
2. Casa Adão
Ave Ramos Pinto 252 • 223 750 492
With its workaday frontage and unfussy brightly lit interior, this old-school diner offers no frills but serves an affordable menu, mainly to locals.
3. La Tasca al Forno
Rua Valente Perfeito • 223 750 118
This compact diner serves a mouthwatering and imaginative menu of dishes such as sapateira recheada (stuffed crab).
4. Barris do Douro
Ave de Diogo Leite 402 • 223 752 419 • Open Tue–Sun for lunch
Within its unassuming façade, Barris do Douro serves a menu of cod fishcakes, deep-fried green beans and pork cheek simmered in red wine.
5. Taberna do São Pedro
Rua Vasco da Gama 126 • 915 465 918 • Open daily lunch
It is well worth hopping on the ferry to Afurada just to savour the seafood in the ambient surroundings of this waterfront restaurant. Grilled sardines and giant prawns are among the many affordable treats here.
6. Pedra Furada Tasca
Rua 27 de Fevereiro 34 • 224 950 414 • Closed Mon
This postcard-pretty restaurant, with its inviting canary-yellow front, has a super terrace beside the river. The menu lives up to its promise, with fine seafood and shellfish dishes.
7. Barriga Negra
Mercado Beira-Rio, Ave de Ramos Pinto 148 • 912 278 648
This lively tasca in the bustling Mercado Beira-Rio is usually filled with locals tucking into grilled sardines and stewed pork cheeks.
8. Da Terra
Ave de Ramos Pinto 148 • 917 472 363
Porto (like all of Portugal) can be tricky for vegetarians and vegans, so this genuine vegan buffet eatery is an oasis – even if finding it means negotiating a labyrinth of butcher stalls in the Mercado Beira-Rio. There are up to 20 dishes on offer here, and the selection changes daily.
9. Beira Rio
Ave Diogo Leite 64 • 223 756 959 • Closed Wed
Francesinhas, grilled chouriço, chicken, sardines and fish soup anchor an unpretentious menu at this waterfront tavern. There are tables outside, and for cooler days there is a stone-walled dining room.
10. Tasca da Mosca
Rua Teixeira Lopes 76 • 910 491 665 • Closed Sun
This typical tasca establishment serves an attractive array of typical mostly meaty petiscos such as alheira, beloura (blood and bread sausage) and cured ham from the Minho.
Restaurants
1. The Yeatman
Rua do Choupelo • 220 133 100 • €€€
Gastronomes love this magnificent Michelin-starred restaurant for its superbly imaginative tasting menus.
2. Armazem do Peixe
Largo Padre Joaquim De Araujo 311 • 912 874 672 • €€
Diners can watch their choice of fish being grilled over charcoal here.
3. Barao de Fladgate
Rua do Choupelo 250 • 223 772 951 • Open daily for lunch • €€€
Magnificent surroundings and a fine view are keynotes of this restaurant.
4. Tempêro D’Maria
Ave de Diogo Leite 278 • 963 788 420 • Closed Wed • €
Value for money and a unique mixed menu of local and international surf and turf make this restaurant a great spot to eat.
5. Mesa com Tradição
Rua 5 de Outubro 2792 • 220 131 495 • Closed Tue and Sun dinner • €€
This family-run restaurant serves up authentic dishes such as bolinhos de alheira (sausage fritters).
6. Dourum
Ave Diogo Leite 454 • 220 917 911 • €€
This dinky wine bar and kitchen sits right underneath Ponte Dom Luís I.
7. De Castro
Largo Miguel Bombarda 23 • 910 553 559 • Open Tue–Sun for lunch • €€
This bright modern restaurant offers sharing platters that comprise clever adaptations of traditional dishes such as arroz de polvo (octopus rice).
8. Restaurante Casa Dias
Ave Ramos Pinto 242 • 223 750 467 • Open daily • €
Intricate ship models enliven the dining room of this unfussy restaurant, which offers set menus as well as à la carte options.
9. The Blini
Rua do General Torres 344 • 224 055 306 • Closed Sun • €€
A little rooftop eyrie of cosmopolitan delights, the Blini specializes in innovative Portuguese cuisine.
10. Vinum
Rua do Agro 141 • 220 930 417 • €€€
Tasting menus here match dishes such as rare breed vaca velha steak, and baked hake in celery purée with regional wines and ports.
The roof terrace at Vinum