Chapter 4
SWEET TREATS, DESSERTS, AND DRINKS
Amy insists on giving her friends the best French chocolate, while Mr. Bhaer treats the March family to a windfall of fruits and nuts before he leaves for the West. Jo’s specialty is gingerbread, while Meg’s trump card is blanc-mange. And at the end of the book, apple turnovers and cookies turn up all over the orchard. Indeed, the March family and their companions are generous with their sweets. Here’s how to indulge your friends and family with the same irresistible delights.
SWEET TREATS
Vanilla Butter Cookies with Mr. Bhaer’s Chocolate Drops
DESSERTS
Black Raspberry Jelly Cake with Lemon Cream
Pink and White Ice Cream Dessert
DRINKS
Amy’s Frothy French Drinking Chocolate
◁ AMY’S “PICKLED LIME” SUGAR COOKIES
During the next few minutes the rumor that Amy March had got twenty-four delicious limes (she ate one on the way) and was going to treat circulated through her “set,” and the attentions of her friends became quite overwhelming. Katy Brown invited her to her next party on the spot. Mary Kingsley insisted on lending her her watch till recess.
While Amy and her friends adore pickled limes, you’ll find that these cookies are a more playful (and less puckery, more palatable) way to enjoy the sweet-tart flavors of the fruit.
Makes 3 dozen cookies
1 package (171/2-ounce [496 g]) sugar cookie mix (see Note)
11/2 tablespoons (21 g) unsalted butter, allowed to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes to soften
11/2 cups (180 g) confectioners’ sugar
41/2 teaspoons (22 ml) fresh lime juice
11/2 teaspoons (3 g) grated lime zest
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Milk (optional)
Green food coloring (optional)
8 small jellied lime candy slices, or 36 small wedges cut from lime jelly fruit slices
1. Prepare the sugar cookies according to the package directions. Allow to cool completely.
2. For the lime frosting, beat the butter with an electric mixer on medium speed for a few seconds to soften. Add the sugar, lime juice, lime zest, and vanilla. Beat until smooth. If needed, add milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, to make a spreadable frosting. Tint as desired with food coloring (a little goes a long way, so start with the smallest dot possible).
3. Frost the cooled cookies with the lime frosting and top each with a wedge of jellied lime candy. To store, layer the cookies between sheets of wax paper in an airtight container and store in the refrigerator up to 3 days.
NOTE: For the best flavor, choose a mix that calls for butter.
“I'm not afraid of storms, for I'm learning how to sail my ship.”
-Amy
◁ VANILLA BUTTER COOKIES WITH MR. BHAER’S CHOCOLATE DROPS
Demi … soon discovered that Dodo like to play with “the bear-man” better than she did him, but though hurt, he concealed his anguish, for he hadn’t the heart to insult a rival who kept a mine of chocolate drops in his waistcoat pocket.
Whenever Mr. Bhaer visits the March family, he brings Meg’s children, Demi and Dodo, chocolate drops, a popular sweet at the time. You can still find these old-fashioned candies in the candy aisle of the supermarket. They resemble large M&Ms, without the candy coating. Here, they top butter cookies, another popular treat from those times. Anyone who loves chocolate and butter cookies (who doesn’t?) will adore these treats as much as Dodo adored Mr. Bhaer and his chocolate drops.
Makes 4 dozen cookies
11/2 sticks (12 tablespoons [167 g]) unsalted butter, allowed to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes to soften
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
13/4 cups (220 g) all-purpose flour
4 dozen chocolate drops or stars
1. In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer on medium speed until fluffy, about 30 seconds. Add the sugar, egg, vanilla, baking powder, and salt and beat until combined. Beat in 1 cup (125 g) of the flour with the mixer, then stir in the remaining 3/4 cup (95 g) flour with a wooden spoon. Gather the dough into a large ball; wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
2. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
3. Shape the cookie dough into 1-inch (2.5 cm) balls. Place the balls 2 inches (5 cm) apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Center a chocolate drop on each cookie, pushing it down to flatten the dough—the chocolate drop should be level with the surrounding dough.
4. Bake the cookies until they are just starting to brown around the edges, about 8 minutes. Let the cookies remain on the cookie sheets for 1 minute. Then, use a thin metal spatula to transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely. To store, layer the cookies in an airtight container, separating each layer with waxed paper. Store at room temperature up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
◁ BONBONS AND MOTTOES
Laurie drew up a little table, brought a second installment of coffee and ice for Jo, and was so obliging that even particular Meg pronounced him a “nice boy.” They had a merry time over the bonbons and mottoes.
Meg and Jo first meet Laurie at a New Year’s Eve dance, and at one point, Laurie and Meg have a fine time enjoying “bonbons and mottoes” together. Bonbons and mottoes were candies (bonbons) that were wrapped in papers printed with verses, wordplays, riddles, or sayings (those are the mottoes)—think of them a little like fortune cookies.
Back in the Marches’ time, bonbons often referred to hard candies that were tricky and time consuming to make, and usually bought in a candy shop. These days, cake balls offer a sweet, easy-to-make stand in.
Makes 40 bonbons
1 package (151/4-ounce [432 g]) white cake mix
1 cup (235 ml) purchased creamy vanilla, cherry, or lemon frosting
11/2 pounds (680 g) white almond bark, chopped, or white baking chips
Candy sprinkles or sparkling sugar
1. Prepare the cake mix as directed on the package, using any suggested pan size. Cool the cake in its pan on a wire rack. Line two large baking sheets or trays with waxed paper.
2. Crumble the cake into a very large bowl. Add the frosting and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until combined. Using a small scoop, drop the cake mixture into 11/4-inch (3 cm) mounds on the prepared baking sheets (don’t worry if they’re not perfectly round at this point—you’ll shape them later). Chill the cake balls for 2 hours.
3. In a small saucepan, melt the almond bark over low heat, stirring until smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Remove the cake mounds from the refrigerator, then quickly roll them into balls that are as smooth and round as possible. (Do not handle them more than necessary as they need to be cold for dipping.)
4. Using two forks, dip the balls in the melted almond coating, allowing the excess to drip off. Place the coated balls back on the prepared pans. Sprinkle with candy sprinkles or sparkling sugar while the coating is still wet. Chill until set, about 15 minutes.
5. Write mottoes (see here) on small gift tags. Thread a ribbon through each tag. Wrap batches of bonbons in small treat bags, then tie the bags with the ribbons threaded with the motto tags. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 days.
◁ BLANC-MANGE AND STRAWBERRIES
“I’ll have blanc-mange and strawberries for dessert, and coffee too, if you want to be elegant.” —Jo
Jo is very excited about the dinner she plans to serve Laurie, and looks forward to capping off the feast with blanc-mange. So, what is blanc-mange? In French blanc means “white” and mange means “eat,” so basically, it refers to the fact that you’ll be eating a dish that’s white.
That’s not much to go on, of course. Think of blancmange as a custard (like flan), but rather than being thickened by eggs, gelatin does the trick. The result is a snow-white, smooth, creamy, and slightly jiggly dessert that tastes great with bright fruit sauces or fresh fruits that have been sliced and sugared. If you want to follow Jo’s lead, serve it with fresh sugared strawberries, though be sure you use sugar, not salt—a frightful mix-up that foils Jo at her ill-fated dinner.
Makes 4 servings
Shortening
1/4 cup (60 ml) cold water
1 (1/4-ounce [7 g]) envelope unflavored gelatin
11/3 cups (315 ml) whole milk
1 cup (235 ml) heavy cream
1/3 cup (66 g) sugar
1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon pure almond extract
1. Brush the bottom and sides of four 6-ounce (175 ml) individual gelatin dessert molds or custard cups with shortening; set aside.
2. Put the water in a medium saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin over the water. Shake the pan lightly to make sure all the gelatin powder is moistened, but do not stir the mixture. Let stand for 5 minutes to soften the gelatin.
3. Heat the gelatin mixture over medium heat, stirring until the gelatin is dissolved, about 1 minute. Stir in the milk, cream, and sugar. Heat and stir until the mixture steams and the sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Do not allow the mixture to boil. Remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla and almond extracts. Pour mixture into a bowl and refrigerate until cool, about 30 minutes. Divide mixture among prepared dessert molds, cover and refrigerate until set, at least 8 hours.
4. To remove each blanc-mange from its mold, dip the bottom of the mold into a bowl of warm water for a few seconds, being careful not to let any water get into the mold. Dry off the outside of the mold. Invert a serving plate on top of the mold and flip the mold and plate over. Lift off the mold. If the blanc-mange does not easily release, repeat the process. Repeat with the remaining molds.
5. Spoon strawberries or fruit sauce around each blanc-mange and serve.
SUGARED STRAWBERRIES: Hull and slice 3 cups strawberries, place in a bowl, and toss with 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar. Cover and refrigerate until the strawberries become a little juicy, about 30 minutes.
“Don’t shut yourself up in a bandbox because you are a woman. Educate yourself to take your part in the world’s work.”
-Marmee
◁ FRUIT AND NUT TRIFLE
“Should we not do a little what you call shopping for the babies, and haf a farewell feast tonight if I go for my last call at your so pleasant home,” he asked, stopping before a window full of fruit and flowers.
“What will we buy?” asked Jo, ignoring the latter part of his speech, and sniffing the mingled odors with an affectation of delight as they went in.
“May they haf oranges and figs?” asked Mr. Bhaer, with a paternal air.
“They eat them when they can get them.”
“Do you care for nuts?”
“Like a squirrel.”
Soon to be leaving for a new job in the American West, Mr. Bhaer insists on treating Jo’s family to a bounty of fruits and nuts for his last dinner with them. Aren’t you just so happy when, a few pages later, you learn that he won’t stay away from Jo forever?
For a terrific dessert that celebrates Mr. Bhaer’s affection and generosity, fold the fruits and nuts into a trifle, a well-known dessert at the time that is still popular today. Instead of using the extravagant “black Hamburg grapes” that Mr. Bhaer ends up buying, this recipe calls for other dark fruits: blueberries, blackberries, or black raspberries.
Makes 10 to 12 servings
1 cup (235 ml) half-and-half or light cream
3 large egg yolks, beaten
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (63 g) sugar, divided
Pinch salt
1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1 recipe Hot Milk Sponge Cake, cooled
4 tablespoons (60 ml) orange juice, divided
1/3 cup (100 g) sweet orange marmalade
2 cups (290 g) fresh blueberries, blackberries, and/or black raspberries
1 cup (235 ml) chilled whipping cream
3 tablespoons (20 g) toasted sliced almonds (see Note)
1. In a medium saucepan, heat the half-and-half over medium heat until steaming. Remove from heat and set aside.
2. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks, 1/4 cup (50 g) of the sugar, and the salt on medium speed with an electric mixer until thick and pale lemon-colored, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk the warm half-and-half into the egg mixture (if you do this too quickly, the eggs will curdle). Return the custard to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, reaches 165°F (74°C) on an instant-read thermometer, and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and add the vanilla extract. Transfer to a heat-safe glass bowl, cover, and chill for at least 3 hours.
3. Tear the sponge cake into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Scatter half of the sponge cake cubes in a straight-sided 2-quart glass serving bowl. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the orange juice over the cake cubes in bowl. Dollop half of the orange marmalade by half-teaspoons over the cake cubes. Top with half of the berries, then half of the custard sauce. Repeat the layers, using the remaining cake cubes, orange juice, orange marmalade, berries, and custard sauce. Cover and chill for at least 4 and up to 24 hours.
4. Just prior to serving, in a chilled mixing bowl, beat the whipping cream with the remaining 1 tablespoon (13 g) sugar to stiff peaks. Spread the whipped cream over the trifle and sprinkle with the almonds. To serve, spoon the trifle into dessert bowls.
NOTE: To toast almonds, spread the nuts in a single layer in a shallow skillet. Heat the skillet over medium heat, watching constantly, until the nuts start to brown. Cook, stirring as needed, until the nuts are golden brown and have become fragrant. Immediately transfer them to a bowl—they’ll continue to cook if you leave them in the hot skillet. Allow to cool before using.
“I do think that families are the most beautiful things in all the world!”
-Jo
DESSERT CRÊPES
So Amy sailed away to find the Old World, which is always new and beautiful to young eyes, while her father and friend watched her from the shore, fervently hoping that none but gentle fortunes would befall the happy-hearted girl, who waved her hand to them till they could see nothing but the summer sunshine dazzling on the sea.
To Jo’s great disappointment, Aunt Carrol chooses Amy—rather than Jo—to accompany her on her trip to Europe. While in France, Amy likely encountered crêpes for the first time her life (the thin French pancakes were generally not found in American cookbooks at the time).
French crêpes in Amy’s day would likely have been made from buckwheat flour rather than regular wheat flour. This updated recipe is a terrific dessert to share with friends—especially if you get everyone taking turns making and garnishing their own crêpes.
Makes 12 crêpes
(6- to 7-inch [15 to 18 cm])
3/4 cup (177 ml) 2% or whole milk
1/2 cup (118 ml) water
2 large eggs
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, melted, plus additional melted butter for the pan
Pinch salt
Toppings as desired (see sidebar)
1. Combine all the ingredients, except the toppings, in a blender in the order given. Pulse until blended, scraping down the sides of the blender container once. Refrigerate the batter for at least 1 hour and up to 48 hours. (This allows the bubbles to settle out so the crêpes are less likely to tear during cooking.)
2. If the batter has separated during refrigeration, stir it gently to blend. Because each crêpe needs to cool individually on a plate, set out four plates (at least 7 inches [18 cm] in diameter), ready and waiting to receive the just-made crêpes.
3. Brush the bottom of a 6- to 7-inch (15 to 18 cm) nonstick skillet with melted butter to coat it lightly. Heat over medium-high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in a scant 1/4 cup batter, quickly swirling the pan to coat the bottom with batter. Return the pan to the heat and cook until the crêpe is lightly browned on the bottom and loosened from the pan, about 30 seconds. Using a thin pancake turner or heatproof spatula, flip the crêpe and cook for about 30 seconds more. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more melted butter as necessary. Once you have made four crêpes, you can start stacking the cooled crêpes, freeing up a plate for stacking the next one hot out of the pan.
4. To serve, fold each crêpe in half and then in half again to form a triangle. Serve with the toppings you and your guests choose.
PARISIAN CREAM PUFFS
As someone who loved French chocolate (see here), Amy would have adored the cream puffs she would surely have encountered while traveling with her aunt in France. However, she would have quickly learned that in that country, they are called profiteroles rather than cream puffs.
Serve these to your chocolate-loving friends. For a real treat, put the warmed chocolate sauce in a pitcher and allow each guest to pour as much chocolate as they desire over their profiteroles.
Makes 24 cream puffs
(8 servings)
1/2 cup (118 ml) 2% or whole milk
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons [55 g]) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1/2 cup (62 g) all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
Chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream, for serving (see Note)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and butter over medium heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is steaming. Add the flour and salt. Cook while beating with a wooden spoon until the dough forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Cook and stir for 1 minute more. Remove from heat. Let cool for 10 minutes.
3. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until the first egg is completely incorporated into the dough and the dough is smooth before adding the next. Drop the dough by the teaspoonful onto the prepared baking sheet.
4. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to 350°F (180°C). Continue to bake until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes more. Transfer the cream puffs to a wire rack to cool.
5. Gently heat the chocolate sauce in a saucepan to a pourable consistency. Slice the cream puffs in half horizontally with a serrated knife. Fill each with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream. Place 3 puffs on each dessert plate. Serve the plated cream puffs and pass the chocolate sauce at the table.
NOTE: For best results, use a high-quality chocolate sauce that lists cream in the ingredients.
APPLE SLUMP
Louisa May Alcott most certainly knew all about apple slumps. She cheekily referred to her family home, Orchard House, as “Orchard Slump,” due to its ongoing need of repair.
While traditional fruit slumps are cooked entirely on the stovetop, this version is finished in the oven. What this newfangled recipe loses in faithfulness to yesteryear’s methods, it gains in having a nicely browned topping. After all, unlike the wood- or coal-burning stoves of the 1860s, today’s ovens make it much easier to bake, rather than steam, biscuit-topped desserts such as this one.
Makes 9 servings
11/2 pounds (680 g) apples, such as Granny Smith, Braeburn, or Honeycrisp, peeled, cored, and sliced (about 41/2 cups)
1/2 cup (115 g) packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons (10 ml) fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons (30 ml) cold water
21/2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
1 teaspoon (4.6 g) baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 sticks (4 tablespoons [55 g]) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 large egg
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
Vanilla ice cream, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. In a large saucepan, combine the apple slices, brown sugar, lemon juice, and cinnamon. Bring to boiling, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the apples are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.
3. In a small bowl, stir together the cold water and cornstarch; add to the apple mixture. Cook and stir until the mixture thickens and bubbles. Cover and keep warm over low heat.
4. For the topping, in a small mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Using a pastry blender or two knives in a crisscross fashion, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, beat the egg and milk together until combined; add to the flour mixture and stir with a fork just until the mixture is moistened.
5. Pour the apple mixture into an 8-inch (20 cm) square baking dish. Using a tablespoon, drop nine equal portions of the topping onto the apple filling.
6. Bake until the filling is bubbly and the topping is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Cool to a warm (rather than hot) serving temperature and serve in dessert dishes topped with ice cream.
MEG’S “PLUM” PUDDING
“No more raisins, Demi. They’ll make you sick,” says Mamma to the young person who offers his services in the kitchen with unfailing regularity on plum-pudding day."
Meg tries to keep her young son out of the raisins while she’s cooking up the season’s plum pudding, a traditional Christmas cake flavored with raisins, currants, citrus peels, and spices—but, surprisingly, no plums. The dessert requires a special mold and needs to steam on the stovetop for hours. Is it any wonder Meg sets aside an entire day for making it?
Here’s a much simpler dessert that uses some of the same ingredients and flavorings as Meg would have used in her plum pudding, plus a bonus of butterscotch chips, which go splendidly with everything else in this dessert. Better yet, this recipe doesn’t require a special mold.
Makes 6 servings
3 cups (330 g) 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes dry white bread (see Note)
1/4 cup (40 g) butterscotch baking chips
1/4 cup (35 g) golden raisins
2 large eggs
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups (355 ml) whole milk
1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1 cup (235 ml) purchased caramel sauce
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh orange juice
1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest (see Note)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease an 8-inch (20 cm) square baking dish.
2. Spread the dry bread cubes evenly in the prepared baking dish. Scatter the butterscotch chips and raisins over the top.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt until smooth and thick. Gradually whisk in the milk and vanilla. Pour the egg mixture over the bread in the dish, pressing the bread with the back of a spatula to submerge it in the egg mixture. Let rest until the bread cubes are soaked through, about 10 minutes.
4. Bake until the pudding is puffed and golden brown and a knife inserted near the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool slightly. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the caramel sauce, orange juice, and orange zest. Heat and stir until the sauce is warm and of pourable consistency. Spoon the warm pudding into dessert dishes and top each serving with caramel sauce.
NOTE: To dry the bread, spread the cubes in a shallow baking pan. Bake in a 300°F (150°C) oven for 10 minutes, or until dry but not toasted, stirring once. Allow to cool before using.
JO’S GINGERBREAD
“Don’t try too many messes, Jo, for you can’t make anything but gingerbread and molasses candy fit to eat. I wash my hands of the dinner party, and since you have asked Laurie on your own responsibility, you may just take care of him.” —Meg
Jo might not be an expert at cooking omelets, tea, biscuits, asparagus, lobster, or blanc-mange, but she does know how to make gingerbread. And really, anyone can—it’s one of the easiest cakes to make.
Scores of recipes for “soft gingerbread” and “hard gingerbread”—which we’d call gingerbread cake and gingerbread cookies today—appear in cookbooks from Louisa May Alcott’s time. Many cakes call for the same flavorings as this recipe, including lemon, which adds a nice, bright zip amidst the deeply flavored spices and molasses. If you’ve never tried a gingerbread cake—or if it’s been years since you have—this recipe will remind you how unique and wonderful it is. There’s really nothing else quite like it in the dessert world.
Makes 16 servings
3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons (3.6 g) ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon (4.6 g) baking soda
1 teaspoon (4.6 g) baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/3 cups (300 g) packed dark brown sugar
11/4 cups (300 ml) mild-flavored molasses
1 stick (8 tablespoons [112 g]) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
11/3 cups (315 ml) boiling water
2 large eggs
1 cup (120 g) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh lemon juice
Whipped cream, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease a 13 × 9-inch (33 × 23 cm) cake pan.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, ginger, cinnamon, baking soda, baking powder, cloves, and salt. Make a well in the center of the mixture.
3. In another large bowl, combine the brown sugar, molasses, and butter. Add the boiling water; whisk until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth. Whisk in the eggs. Add to the flour mixture. Beat with an electric mixer on low speed just until combined and smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
4. Bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Place the pan on a wire rack to let the gingerbread cool slightly.
5. While the gingerbread bakes, in a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice to make a drizzling consistency. Drizzle over the warm gingerbread. Serve warm with whipped cream.
HOT MILK SPONGE CAKE
Sponge cake is a quintessential nineteenth-century dessert, and most cookbooks in the Marches’ time would have at least one recipe for this rich-yet-tender cake. Often sponge cake was the basis for other desserts, such as Black Raspberry Jelly Cake or Fruit and Nut Trifle. And, by the way, sponge cakes are easier to make than many—even cooking-challenged Jo could have made this cake (though it would have helped her to have a modern temperature-precise oven like the ones we have today).
Lightly dusted with confectioners’ sugar, a sponge cake is also a wonderful way to showcase sliced and sugared fresh fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries, peaches, and sweet cherries—a dessert made all the better when topped with a little sweetened whipped cream. In winter, serve this cake with Strawberries in Winter Sauce and whipped cream.
Makes 8 servings
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (4.6 g) baking powder
Pinch salt
2 large eggs
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup (118 ml) whole milk
3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, cut in pieces
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease and flour the bottom and sides an 8-inch (20 cm) round or square cake pan with 2 inch (5 cm) sides.
2. In a small bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until thick and lemon-colored, about 3 minutes. Gradually add the sugar and beat until pale, light, and fluffy, about 2 minutes more. Beat in the vanilla. Use a spatula to stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture just until combined.
4. In a small saucepan, combine the milk and butter. Heat and stir over medium heat just until the butter is melted. Gradually pour the hot milk mixture into the batter, stirring constantly until combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
5. Bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack. Run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the cake from the pan. Slice and serve.
◁ BLACK RASPBERRY JELLY CAKE WITH LEMON CREAM
Next time you watch the 1994 film version of Little Women (the one starring Winona Ryder), keep an eye out for the jelly roll that appears briefly on the table toward the end of the movie. Jelly rolls are delicate sponge cakes that have been spread with jelly and rolled into a spiral. These cake rolls are more elegant versions of the simpler, and unrolled, jelly cakes, which became popular in America after the Civil War (which is when Little Women was first published). Made simply by spreading jelly between layers of cakes, this dessert tastes exactly like a fancy jelly roll—but is much easier to make.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
1 recipe Hot Milk Sponge Cake, cooled
1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons (22 g) confectioners’ sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest (see Note)
2 teaspoons (10 ml) fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup (160 g) seedless black raspberry jam
1. Prepare the sponge cake as directed, except in step one, grease the sides of the cake pan then line the bottom with parchment paper and grease the parchment paper. Bake and cool the cake as directed.
2. Run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the cake from the pan. Invert the pan onto a large cutting board, lift off the pan, and remove and discard the parchment paper.
3. For the lemon cream, place a small mixing bowl and the beaters of an electric mixer in the refrigerator. Chill for 20 minutes. Combine the whipping cream, sugar, vanilla, and lemon zest in the chilled mixing bowl. Beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until peaks form. (To test, turn off the mixer and lift the beaters out of the cream. If the cream stands up and does not sink back down immediately, peaks have formed.) Beat in the fresh lemon juice until combined.
4. Cut the cake in half horizontally using a long serrated knife. Place the bottom layer on a flat plate and spread with the jam. Top with the top half of the cake. Spread the lemon cream over the top of the cake. Cut into slices to serve.
APPLE TURNOVERS
Cookies were sown broadcast over the field, and apple turnovers roosted in the trees like a new style of bird. The little girls had a private tea party, and Ted roved among the edibles at his own sweet will.
During the picnic at the very end of Little Women, apple turnovers are all over the place—literally—as the lads eat and play throughout the orchard. These classic apple turnovers will bring you equal delight, though hopefully, you’ll be more inclined to eat them than to toss them around the yard.
Makes 6 servings
3 medium apples, such as Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, or Braeburn, peeled, cored, and chopped (about 3 cups)
1/4 cup (56 g) packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon (8 g) cornstarch
1 teaspoon (2.3 g) apple pie spice
1 sheet (half of a 17.3-ounce [490 g] package) frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package directions
1 large egg
1 tablespoon (15 ml) water
Coarse or granulated sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine the apples, brown sugar, butter, lemon juice, cornstarch, and apple pie spice. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened and bubbly. Remove from heat. Set aside to cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
3. On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry into a 14-inch (35.5 cm) square. Cut in half and then cut each half crosswise into thirds to make six rectangles. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and water until smooth. Brush the edges of the pastry rectangles with the egg mixture. Transfer one pastry rectangle to the prepared baking sheet. Spoon not quite 1/3 cup of the apple mixture on one short half of the rectangle. Fold the other half over to enclose the filling, then crimp the edges by pressing and rolling them up to seal. Cut three small slits in the top of the rectangle to allow steam to vent. Repeat with remaining rectangles. (If there is extra filling, discard it rather than overstuffing the turnovers.)
4. Brush with some of the additional egg mixture and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Discard any extra egg mixture. Bake the turnovers for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving, as the filling will be very hot.
CAPTIVATING LITTLE TARTS
The twins … were left to revel at their own sweet will, and you may be sure they made the most of the opportunity. Didn’t they steal sips of tea, stuff gingerbread ad libitum, get a hot biscuit apiece, and as a crowning trespass, didn’t they each whisk a captivating little tart into their tiny pockets, there to stick and crumble treacherously, teaching them that both human nature and a pastry are frail?
Sounds like Demi and Daisy (pet names for John and Meg’s twins) learn the hard way that tarts don’t travel well in the pockets of clothing. The twins would have loved these simple jam tarts, and while they’re indeed small enough to slip into a pocket, they’ll be much better if you don’t.
Makes 24 small tarts
1 package (14.1-ounce [399 g]) refrigerated pie crusts (2 crusts), brought to room temperature according to package directions
1/2 to 2/3 cup (160 to 200 g) fruit jam
2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter
Ground cinnamon
Confectioners’ sugar or whipped cream (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Lightly grease the cups of a 24-cup mini muffin pan.
2. On a lightly floured surface, unroll the pie crusts. Using a 21/2-inch (6 cm) round cutter, cut out 24 circles. Discard the excess dough. Press the circles into the muffin pan cups, pleating as needed around the edges. Place a dab of butter (equivalent to about 1/4 teaspoon) in the bottom of each crust. Lightly sprinkle with cinnamon. Spoon a heaping teaspoon of the jam into each crust.
3. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the crusts are golden. Let cool. Remove the tarts from the muffin pan, running a knife around the edges of the tarts to loosen them, if necessary. If you like, dust the tarts with confectioners’ sugar or top each with a dollop of whipped cream.
◁ “LEMON CHEESE” TARTLETS
Lemon curd was popular in the Marches’ time, but the sisters might not have known this delightfully zippy treat by that name. Instead, some cookbooks of the era titled it “lemon cheese,” and the tarts made from them were called “lemon cheese-cakes”—not to be confused with the cheesecakes of today.
Early recipes for lemon cheese-cakes called for baking the “lemon cheese” over “puff paste” (known today as puff pastry). These days, purchased phyllo dough shells are a pretty (and simple) stand-in. While you could purchase a jar of lemon curd, it tastes so much fresher and zingier when you make it at home.
Aunt March might have served these tartlets as part of an afternoon tea, if she felt you were deserving enough. Today, serve these cuties for dessert or anytime you’re asked to bring a sweet treat to a gathering.
Makes 30 tartlets
3 large eggs
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (6 g) grated lemon zest (see Note)
Pinch salt
1/2 cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
2 packages (1.9-ounce [54 g]) packages frozen miniature phyllo tart shells, thawed
Blueberries or raspberries, for garnish
Sweetened whipped cream, for serving (optional)
1. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, and salt. Whisk in the lemon juice. Place the pan over medium heat. Whisking constantly, add the butter, one piece at a time, letting each piece melt before adding the next. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the curd thickens and reaches 165°F (74°C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 3 minutes more. Scrape into a small bowl. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours before using.
2. To serve, spoon the curd into the tart shells. (Store any extra curd in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. It makes a great sweet-tart dip for shortbread cookies). Serve the tartlets immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 hour. Just before serving, top each with a raspberry or a couple of blueberries and, if you like, sweetened whipped cream.
NOTE: To grate lemon, orange, or lime zest, wash the fruit well and pat dry. Rub the fruit over a citrus zester or a rasp-style grater to remove some of the colorful peel, turning the fruit as you go and making sure that you’re removing only the colored zest and not the bitter white pith underneath. Continue until you have the amount called for in the recipe.
◁ PINK AND WHITE ICE CREAM DESSERT
There was ice cream, actually two dishes of it, pink and white, and cake and fruit and distracting French bonbons and, in the middle of the table, four great bouquets of hothouse flowers.
On the evening of Christmas Day, the March sisters are thrilled and surprised to find this lavish spread on their table, and they try to guess who arranged it. Fairies? Santa Claus? Marmee? Aunt March? No—the exquisite food and flowers arrived compliments of Laurie’s grandfather, who had learned that the girls had given their Christmas breakfast to the poor Hummel family. Mr. Laurence wanted to treat them to something lovely to make up for their sacrifice.
While ice cream may not have been an any-day treat as it is today, thanks to freezing innovations invented in the 1850s, it wasn’t entirely scarce, either. Nevertheless, ice cream—both pink and white—would have been quite the treat for the March girls. This recipe layers both colors of ice cream into one dessert that, while easy, is still quite a treat.
Makes 8 servings
3 cups (420 g) vanilla ice cream
1 (8-inch [20 cm]) chocolate pie crust
3 cups (420 g) strawberry ice cream
Chocolate or fudge sauce
Sliced or quartered fresh strawberries or Strawberries in Winter Sauce
Sweetened whipped cream
1. Put the vanilla ice cream in a medium bowl and let it soften just until it can be stirred smooth, about 5 minutes. Spoon it into the pie crust and spread evenly using a rubber scraper or offset spatula. Freeze for 45 to 60 minutes, until firm.
2. Put the strawberry ice cream in another bowl and let it soften just until it can be stirred smooth, about 5 minutes. Carefully spoon the strawberry ice cream over the vanilla ice cream layer and spread evenly. Cover and freeze for at least 1 hour, until firm.
3. To serve, remove pie from freezer 15 to 20 minutes before serving to make it easier to slice. If needed, gently warm the chocolate or fudge sauce until it reaches a pourable consistency. Cut the pie into eight pieces. Place each piece on a dessert plate. Top with strawberries and drizzle with chocolate sauce, then top with whipped cream.
STRAWBERRY SHERBET
“Can I help you?” said a friendly voice. And there was Laurie, with a full cup in one hand and a plate of ice in the other.
These days, an “ice” usually refers to a dessert made of fruit juice or sweetened fruit that’s been pureed and frozen. However, it’s hard to say exactly what dessert Laurie brings to Meg at the New Year’s Eve party. In some cookbooks of the time, ices were made much as we know them today. However, the 1859 book The Young Housekeeper’s Friend (which becomes Meg’s trusted cookbook after she marries), the fruit ices include cream, which make them more like what we call sherbet today. Sherbets differ from ice cream in that the latter includes eggs, while sherbet does not.
This recipe goes the sherbet route, and if it’s been a while since you’ve tasted a good fruit sherbet, give it a try: More creamy than a fruit ice, but lighter and more refreshing than a rich ice cream, a sherbet is often just right.
Makes about 1 1/2 quarts
1 pound (454 g) fresh strawberries, hulled, or 1 package (1-pound [454 g]) frozen unsweetened strawberries, thawed
1 cup (235 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (235 ml) 2% milk
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
1. In a blender or food processor, puree the strawberries until smooth. For a seedless sherbet, strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Add the cream, milk, sugar, and lemon juice and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, until well chilled.
2. Pour the strawberry mixture into the bowl of an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately for a softer texture. For a firmer texture, transfer the sherbet to a freezer container, cover, and freeze for at least 4 hours.
STRAWBERRIES IN WINTER SAUCE
She saw that money conferred power, money and power, therefore, she resolved to have, not to be used for herself alone, but for those whom she loved more than life. The dream of filling home with comforts, giving Beth everything she wanted, from strawberries in winter to an organ in her bedroom, going abroad herself, and always having more than enough, so that she might indulge in the luxury of charity, had been for years Jo’s most cherished castle in the air.
For the March sisters, food is often a way of showing care and affection for their family and friends. This is most touchingly true when Jo vows to earn money through her writing so that she may give her ailing sister some cherished pleasures, from strawberries in winter to an organ in her bedroom.
In 1860s New England, strawberries in winter would have cost a good sum. The fruit would have had to make a long, slow journey from Southern climates. These days, you can easily find strawberries year-round, most of the time in the produce aisle and always in freezer cases. Frozen strawberries work best for making this sauce, which is terrific on ice cream, angel food cake, Hot Milk Sponge Cake, Blanc-Mange, and other desserts.
Makes 2 cups
1 package (1-pound [454 g]) frozen unsweetened whole strawberries, thawed
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
1 teaspoon (3 g) cornstarch
2 teaspoons (10 ml) fresh lemon juice
1. In a medium saucepan, combine the berries, sugar, and cornstarch. Cook and stir over medium heat until the mixture starts to boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and allow the mixture to gently boil, stirring often, until the strawberries release their juices and become very soft, about 6 minutes.
2. Remove the pan from heat and use the back of a wooden spoon to mash half of the berries against the side of the pan to thicken the sauce. Stir in the lemon juice. Transfer the sauce to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 3 days before serving.
◁ AMY’S LEMONADE
“The first of June! … Three months’ vacation—how I shall enjoy it!” exclaimed Meg, coming home one warm day to find Jo laid upon the sofa in an unusual state of exhaustion, while Beth took off her dusty boots, and Amy made lemonade for the refreshment of the whole party.
When the March sisters toast the first days of summer with lemonade, the drink most certainly was not poured from a carton or made from a powdery mix. In those days, Amy most likely made her lemonade from fresh-squeezed lemon juice mixed with a little simple syrup (sugar dissolved in water). Some recipes at the time added other flavors to the drink. Based on an 1851 recipe, this lemonade gets a little extra sweetness from orange zest and a delicate spice angle from cloves.
Makes 4 servings
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
33/4 cups (887 ml) water, divided
2 tablespoons (12 g) grated lemon zest (see Note)
1 tablespoon (6 g) grated orange zest (see Note)
2 whole cloves
11/2 cups (355 ml) fresh lemon juice (from 6 to 8 lemons)
Lemon slices, for garnish (optional)
1. For the syrup, in a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, 3/4 cup (177 ml) of the water, the lemon zest, orange zest, and cloves. Heat over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Pour the syrup through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl; discard the cloves and zest.
2. In a large pitcher, combine the syrup, lemon juice, and remaining 3 cups (710 ml) water. Note that lemons vary in sourness, so add water if needed to reach your desired level of intensity. Serve in glasses over ice. Garnish glasses with sliced lemons, if you like.
Bill of Fare for Lemonade and Lunch on the Porch
Amy’s Lemonade (above)
A relish tray of olives, carrots, and radishes
Cheese, Butter, and Celery Sandwiches
Vanilla Butter Cookies with Mr. Bhaer’s Chocolate Drops
Amy’s “Pickled Lime” Sugar Cookies
Black Raspberry Jelly Cake with Lemon Cream
◁ AMY’S FROTHY FRENCH DRINKING CHOCOLATE
“We must have cold tongue and chicken, French chocolate and ice cream, besides. The girls are used to such things, and I want my lunch to be proper and elegant, though I do work for my living.” —Amy
What a lovely party Amy plans for her artistic friends! When Marmee suggests cake, sandwiches, fruit, and coffee, Amy wants to regale them with better things, including French chocolate.
What was “French chocolate”? The clue comes a few pages later, when Amy finds, to her chagrin, that “the chocolate wouldn’t froth properly.” Amy was likely trying to treat her guest to a chocolate beverage that had been put through a contraption called a chocolate mill. The result is a frothy top that’s a little like the foam on top of a cappuccino, only not as stiff.
Next time you make hot chocolate, try frothing it a to achieve elegant, Amy-style results.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
3 cups (710 ml) whole or 2% milk
1 cup (235 ml) heavy cream
4 ounces (114 g) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1. In a very large saucepan, heat the milk and cream over medium-low heat until steaming but not boiling. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and let stand for 5 minutes.
2. Using a whisk, stir the drink until it is smooth. Whisk vigorously until frothy. Return to medium low heat to heat through, then serve.