8.

PÂTISSERIE

[|pimgimgtiimgs(img)ri] (noun) a shop where pastries and cakes are sold, (mass noun) pastries and cakes collectively

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A French patisserie is the very manifestation of sweet temptation. Found on nearly every corner, each bakery is renowned for a different baked treat – dainty millefeuille, chocolate-drenched éclairs, colourful macaroons, dark and dangerous douceur noisette and a myriad other intricate delicacies.

In many ways, baking is so much more involved than cooking. It’s not just butter, sugar and eggs thrown together. You have to be meticulous in considering the chemistry, beauty and flavours of your creations and continually challenge yourself by introducing unusual ingredients.

At JAN, the cool pastry section of the kitchen is my refuge when the stifling heat of high summer hits the south of France. It is here that I am reminded of the singular desserts of my childhood. Surreptitiously dipping a spoon into some dark ganache or cooling citrus syrup, I am back in my grandmother’s kitchen as a child, stirring French batters with South African spoons.

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APPLE AND CIDER CHARLOTTE

A charlotte is a type of dessert or trifle that can be served hot or cold. Bread, sponge cake or biscuits are used to line a mould, which is then filled with a fruit purée or custard.

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Serves: 6–8

Difficulty: Medium

Prep time: 45 min + 2–3 hr chilling

Baking time: 45 min

INGREDIENTS

Cider Caramel

METHOD

  1. Place the apples in a large casserole dish with the salted butter, sugar and water. Cook slowly over moderate heat for 30–40 minutes until a purée forms. Once the purée is smooth, caramelise a little longer on the heat until light golden in colour. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla extract and stir gently.
  2. Preheat the oven to 170 °C. Spray a 20 cm dome-shaped cake tin or a charlotte mould with nonstick spray.
  3. Melt the unsalted butter in a double boiler to form a clarified butter. Slice the bread/sponge into even squares and dip lightly into the clarified butter. Line the base of the cake tin or mould and all around the sides with some of the buttered bread. Make sure there aren’t any gaps and that the bread overlaps slightly so that it forms a ‘crown’ shape. Scoop some of the apple purée onto the base, add a layer of bread and purée and repeat, ending with a layer of bread.
  4. Cover the charlotte with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Take a peek once in a while to check that the crust has gone caramel brown. Set aside until cool and then refrigerate for at least 2–3 hours.
  5. For the cider caramel, pour the apple cider into a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Allow the apple cider to cook down to about 80 ml. Reduce the heat and add the brown sugar, butter, cream and cinnamon, and increase the heat back to medium-high. Continue to cook for 10–15 minutes until the caramel thickens and starts to become dark in colour. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla and salt, and stir to combine. Set aside to cool and thicken slightly.
  6. To serve the charlotte, turn the mould upside down on a plate and carefully remove the cake tin. Drizzle over the caramel sauce. Serve with whipped cream or crème fraîche whipped with a little icing sugar.

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MILK TART WITH POACHED FRUIT

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Serves: 6

Difficulty: Medium

Prep time: 55 min + 2 hr chilling

Baking time: 20 min

Cooking time: 40 min

INGREDIENTS

Sweet Pastry
Filling

METHOD

  1. To make the pastry, blend the butter, flour, baking powder, salt and icing sugar in a food processor until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the vanilla seeds and mix again quickly. Add the egg to the mixture and gently work it together using your hands until you have a ball of dough. Don’t overwork the pastry. Sprinkle a little flour over the dough and pat the ball into a flat round about 2.5 cm thick. Sprinkle over a little more flour, then wrap in plastic wrap. Rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
  2. Using a rolling pin, carefully roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface until it is about 6 mm thick. Use the rolling pin to lift the pastry and place it into a lightly greased loose-bottomed tart tin. Gently press the pastry onto all the sides and trim off the excess. Prick with a fork and place in the freezer for 30 minutes.
  3. Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Remove the tart shell from the freezer and place a large piece of greaseproof paper inside it. Fill with raw rice or dried beans. Bake blind for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove the beans and allow to cool.
  4. For the filling, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Set aside. Mix 125 ml of the milk, the cake flour, cornflour, salt and sugar together until smooth. Bring the remaining milk to just below boiling point, then remove from the heat and stir in the cornflour mixture. Return to the heat, stirring continuously, until the mixture is smooth and thickens. Add the butter, a little at a time, mixing until well combined, then add the vanilla. Beat all the egg yolks lightly and mix into the custard. Gently fold in the whisked egg whites and pour the filling into the baked pastry shell. Bake at 180 °C for 20 minutes and then set aside to cool. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar.
  5. Serve the milk tart garnished with poached fruit*, Caramel (see page 179) and Caramel Pistachio Tuille (see page 193).

* Muscat-poached pears and quinces: Combine 750 ml muscat, 230 g granulated sugar, 1 cinnamon stick, 5 whole cloves and 1 vanilla pod (halved and seeds scraped out) with the zests of 1 orange and 1 lemon and 500 ml water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add 5 pears and 5 quinces (all peeled, cored and halved) to the poaching liquid and simmer for 20 minutes, turning them carefully once with a spoon. Once poached, chill the pears and quinces in the liquid for at least 2 hours and carefully remove with a slotted spoon. Strain the liquid before serving.

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LEMON AND POPPY SEED CHEESECAKE

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Serves: 8–10

Difficulty: Little effort

Prep time: 40 min + 2 hr 20 min chilling

Baking time: 25 min

INGREDIENTS

Lemon and Poppy Seed Cake
Cheesecake

METHOD

  1. For the poppy seed cake, preheat the oven to 180 °C. Spray a baking tray with nonstick spray.
  2. In a stand mixer, combine the eggs and sugar and mix until light and fluffy. Sift the flour and baking powder together and fold it into the egg mixture. Mix until well combined.
  3. Combine the melted butter, olive oil, lemon zest and juice and allow to stand for a few minutes before adding it to the flour mixture. Mix until smooth and then add the poppy seeds.
  4. Pour the batter into the prepared tray and bake for 25 minutes, or until the batter is cooked and golden brown. Once cooled, carefully remove from the tray.
  5. Depending on the height of your sponge, trim the top with a large bread knife or use a string to cut it into a perfect flat shape. Set aside.
  6. For the cheesecake, line a medium-sized loaf tin with wax paper and spray with nonstick spray.
  7. Mix the biscuits, sugar, lemon zest, grated ginger and melted butter together in a large mixing bowl. Press a thin layer onto the base of the loaf tin until evenly spread and place in the fridge. Reserve the rest of the mixture at room temperature.
  8. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the cream until thick. Add the cream cheese and whisk on a medium speed until there are no lumps – maximum 2 minutes. Combine the condensed milk, lemon juice, vanilla and icing sugar, add to the cream cheese mixture and whisk lightly.
  9. In a small saucepan, warm the gelatine with some of the leftover water and melt down until smooth – do not boil. Add the gelatine mixture to the cream cheese and cream and whisk for another 2–3 minutes. Be careful not to overmix or it will separate.
  10. Pour a little of the cream cheese filling into the loaf tin on top of the crumble and return to the fridge to set for 20 minutes. Make sure the cheese filling is semi-hard before proceeding with the stacking: add a layer of the sponge, some more cream cheese filling and lastly a layer of biscuit crumbs. Return to the fridge for 2 hours to set.
  11. To serve, roast a few lemons on a griddle pan until they are caramelised and serve with dollops of Caramel (see page 179) and toasted coconut.

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BERRIES AND CHOCOLATE

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Serves: 6

Difficulty: Medium

Prep time: 45 min + 30 min chilling

Cooking time: 1 hr

INGREDIENTS

Chocolate mousse
Chocolate Pistachio Tuille
Garnish
Yoghurt Vanilla Cream

METHOD

  1. For the chocolate mousse, whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a stand mixer until light and fluffy. Add the cocoa and amaretto. Mix on the lowest setting and add the whipped cream followed by the melted chocolate until mixed through and combined.
  2. Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl that has been cleaned with vinegar. Whisk at a medium to high speed to fluff them up. Just as they reach soft peak stage remove the whisk. Use a large plastic spoon to combine the egg whites with the rest of the chocolate batter. Whisk a few times to incorporate but don’t overmix. Pour the chocolate mousse into a piping bag and place in the fridge until ready to use.
  3. To make the pistachio tuille, heat the sugar, butter, glucose and milk in a medium-sized saucepan over low to medium heat until melted. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the ground pistachios and cocoa. Mix well before spreading it very thinly on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Press another piece of baking paper on top and smooth out using your hands so that the tuille mixture spreads evenly. Place in the freezer for about 2 hours, or until the mixture is hard.
  4. Preheat the oven to 150 °C. Remove the top layer of baking paper from the frozen tuille and bake in the oven for about 15 minutes. Remove and cool before breaking into pieces as required.
  5. For the yoghurt vanilla cream, use a hand whisk to mix the yoghurt, vanilla seeds, castor sugar and lemon juice together until well combined. Pour into a squeezy bottle and refrigerate for 30 minutes before using.
  6. To assemble the dish, pipe some chocolate mousse in a circle, and add sliced fresh strawberries, Berry Gel (see page 253), yoghurt vanilla cream and the ginger biscuit crumbs. Garnish with pieces of the pistachio tuille.

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PEAR AND WHITE CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT CAKE

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Serves: 6

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: 40 min

Baking time: 50–60 min

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 140 °C. Butter and line the base of a 20 cm round cake tin.
  2. Grind the hazelnuts in a food processor until fairly fine. Remove 30 ml and set aside. Add the flour to the remaining hazelnuts in the food processor and mix briefly. Add the butter and pulse until it forms crumbs. Add the castor sugar and eggs and mix briefly.
  3. Peel, core and chop two of the pears. Stir the chopped pears and chocolate lightly into the cake mixture using a wooden spoon. Spoon the mixture into the prepared cake tin and smooth the top.
  4. Peel, core and slice the remaining two pears and arrange over the top of the cake. Sprinkle with the reserved chopped hazelnuts. Press down lightly and bake for 50–60 minutes until firm to the touch and golden in colour. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out and cool on a wire rack.
  5. Warm the jam and brush over the top of the cake. Dust with icing sugar if desired and serve warm or cold with cream or ice cream.

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CRUMBLED CARROT CAKE WITH ORANGE CURD AND HAZELNUT ICE CREAM

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Serves: 6

Difficulty: Medium

Prep time: 2 hr (excl churning)

Cooking time: about 1 hr

INGREDIENTS

Hazelnut Ice Cream
Carrot Cake
Orange Curd

METHOD

  1. Make the hazelnut ice cream first. Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking tray and toast in the oven for 8–10 minutes. Cool completely, then rub off the skins, and coarsely grind the nuts in a blender.
  2. Combine the milk and ground hazelnuts in a saucepan over low heat. Bring to a gentle boil, cover, and remove the pan from the heat. Allow to stand for 2 hours. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve or use cheesecloth, pressing hard on the solids to get the liquid to come through. Reserve the strained milk and discard the solids.
  3. Combine the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer. Cream at medium-high speed for 3–5 minutes until very thick and pale. Return milk to a simmer. Add half of the warm milk to the egg mixture and whisk until blended. Pour the egg yolk mixture into the saucepan with the remaining milk. Cook over low heat, stirring, until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the cream and Frangelico. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a medium-sized bowl. Place the bowl in an ice-water bath, and cool down. Churn in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  4. For the carrot cake, preheat the oven to 180 °C. Grease two round cake tins of 23 cm in diameter. In a medium-sized bowl, stir the flour, cinnamon and castor sugar together. Add the oil and eggs and mix until blended. Stir in the carrots, banana purée and nuts. Divide the cake mixture evenly between the two prepared tins. Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Cool the cakes on wire racks before removing from the tins.
  5. For the orange curd, soften the oranges by rolling them back and forth on a hard surface, then grate the zest very finely, making sure no white pith is included. Squeeze the juice and combine with the zest, sugar and butter in a medium to large bowl suspended over a pot of boiling water. Mix the sugar and butter until melted. Lower the heat to a simmer. Whisk in the eggs until thickened and the mixture coats the back of a teaspoon. This will take about 20 minutes. Allow to cool before using.
  6. To assemble, break the carrot cake into pieces of different sizes. Serve with dots of Caramel (see page 179), orange curd and Vanilla Yoghurt Cream (see page 155), and a quenelle (see page 54) of the hazelnut ice cream.

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CHOCOLATE MOUSSE CAKE WITH ROASTED BANANA

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Serves: 6

Difficulty: Medium

Prep time: 45 min + 3 hr chilling

Cooking time: 30–35 min

INGREDIENTS

Chocolate Sponge
Chocolate Mousse
Roasted Banana Sorbet
Caramelised Banana

METHOD

  1. For the sponge, preheat the oven to 180 °C. Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk. Cream at medium-high speed until very thick and pale yellow. Melt the butter in the milk in a heatproof bowl in the microwave or in a small saucepan. Allow to cool down slightly. Slowly mix the milk mixture into the egg mixture and mix on low speed. Add the vanilla extract. Sift the flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt together, add to the egg mixture and combine well. Pour the batter into a buttered oven pan lined with baking paper. Bake for 30–35 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the sponge comes out clean. Cool and then turn out onto a cooling rack. Cut the chocolate sponge in half horizontally and press into individual moulds or keep as a whole in a cake tin.
  2. For the mousse, break the chocolate into small pieces and melt with the marshmallows and half of the evaporated milk in a double boiler. Stir regularly until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk the remaining half of the evaporated milk until soft peaks form. Fold into the chocolate mixture and pour onto the individual cakes or into the whole one. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
  3. For the roasted banana sorbet, place the bananas – skin and all – on a baking tray and roast in a preheated oven at 160 °C for 20–30 minutes, or until black and syrupy. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Scoop out the insides of the banana into a blender and add the glucose, salt, rum and water. Blend until smooth and then churn in an ice-cream maker, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
  4. For the caramelised banana, use a medium-sized melon baller and scoop out the banana, keeping them as round as possible. Sprinkle with sugar and caramelise using a blowtorch.
  5. To serve, cut the mousse in half and serve with roasted banana sorbet, caramelised banana balls and an individual chocolate tart (see page 168).

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SPICY PEAR SAFFRON TARTE TATIN

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Serves: 6–8

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: 20 min

Baking time: 30–40 min

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Heat a large ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Add the castor sugar and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until caramelised. Add the butter, saffron, ginger and cinnamon and stir to combine.
  2. Place the pears in the caramel and spoon over some of the caramel. Turn the heat down and cook for 5–10 minutes, until the pears are just tender and cooked but retain their shape. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. Re-arrange in a fan shape in the pan.
  3. Roll out the pastry to about 5 mm thick and cut a disc slightly bigger than the pan. Place the pastry disc on top of the pears and caramel, then carefully tuck it snugly around the outside of the pears and down into the sides of the pan.
  4. Bake the tarte Tatin for 30–40 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and puffed up. Remove from the oven and leave for 10 minutes to cool down. Loosen the pastry by running a knife around the edge, then place a large serving plate over the top and carefully turn over onto the plate. Serve warm with cream or custard.

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CHOCOLATE AND CASSIS TART

The cassis berries can be substituted with blackberries or mulberries. When soaked in the cassis, the liqueur of the South of France, it adds a tangy but sweet, deep flavour.

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Makes: 2 medium tarts

Difficulty: Medium

Prep time: 2 hr

Cooking time: 1 hr

INGREDIENTS

Chocolate Filling
Cassis Berries

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Use a loose-bottomed tart tin and, using a splash of vegetable oil on a piece of paper towel, lightly oil the inside.
  2. Prepare the pastry, wrap in plastic wrap and allow to rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before using.
  3. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface until it is about 6 mm thick. Use the rolling pin to lift the pastry and place it into the tart tin. Gently press the pastry onto all the sides and trim off the excess. Prick with a fork and place in the freezer for 30 minutes.
  4. Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Remove the tart shell from the freezer and place a large piece of greaseproof paper inside. Fill with raw rice or dried beans. Bake blind for 10 minutes, then remove the beans and bake a second time until lightly browned. Remove and allow to cool.
  5. For the filling, melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler or on a medium setting in the microwave. Stir regularly to prevent the chocolate from burning. Allow to stand for 10 minutes to thicken.
  6. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the sugar, cream, salt, eggs and vanilla seeds until smooth. Add the chocolate and butter mixture and mix well. Pour the filling into the tart shell and bake at 180 °C for 15–20 minutes – it should still be slightly wobbly. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before removing from the tart tin.
  7. For the cassis berries, wash the berries and place half of them in a small saucepan with the sugar, crème de cassis, water and lemon zest. Simmer until it forms a syrup. Just before serving, mix in the remaining berries and give it a good stir. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before spooning on top of the chocolate tart.

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TIRAMISU

Because Nice was Italian in its early days and called Nizza, the Italian influence is still present, especially in favourites such as tiramisu. It is served with coffee ice cream or plain vanilla ice cream and a strong shot of espresso. Bellissimo!

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Serves: 10

Difficulty: Little effort

Prep time: 40 min

Baking time: 20–25 min

INGREDIENTS

Vanilla Sponge
Chocolate Sponge
Tiramisu Filling

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C.
  2. To make the vanilla sponge, beat the eggs and castor sugar together until light and fluffy. Sift in the flour and baking powder and mix until just combined. Add the butter, oil and vanilla extract and seeds and mix well. Pour the batter into a buttered oven pan lined with baking paper. Bake for 20–25 minutes. Set aside to cool.
  3. For the filling, whisk the cream to soft peak stage and then add the cream cheese, castor sugar and vanilla seeds. Whisk until smooth and creamy.
  4. To assemble, cut the vanilla sponge and wet slightly with the coffee. Layer the vanilla and cut chocolate sponges in individual bowls or glasses with the cream cheese filling and top with a dusting of cocoa powder. Allow to stand for a few hours for the flavours to develop.

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MELON AND ORANGE GRANITA

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Serves: 6

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: 15 min + 5 hr chilling

Cooking time: 0 min

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Combine 250 ml orange juice, the sugar, white balsamic vinegar and vanilla pod with seeds in a small saucepan and boil over high heat for about 1 minute, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Cut the melons in half, clean out the seeds and remove the skin. Cut into big chunks and place in a food processor with the remaining 250 ml orange juice and the warm sugar/orange mixture. Blend on medium speed for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a shallow dish and freeze, scraping around the sides every 30 minutes to break up the crystals. Cover with plastic wrap until ready to serve.