Traveling to Athens is like making a pilgrimage to the cradle of our civilization. Romantics can’t help but get goose bumps as they kick around the same pebbles that once stuck in Socrates’ sandals, with the floodlit Parthenon forever floating ethereally overhead. You’ll walk in the footsteps of the great minds that created democracy, philosophy, theater, and more...even when you’re dodging motorcycles on “pedestrianized” streets.
While sprawling and congested, the city has a compact, user-friendly tourist zone, with sights such as the Acropolis Museum and the Ancient Agora an easy walk apart. Many locals speak English, major landmarks are well-signed, and most street signs are in both Greek and English.
The core of the book is five self-guided tours that zero in on Athens’ greatest sights. My Athens City Walk leads you on a three-part stroll through the engaging and refreshingly small city center. My Acropolis and Ancient Agora tours take you back in time to the bustling religious and commercial centers of ancient Greece. And the Acropolis Museum and National Archaeological Museum provide up-close views of artifacts and treasures unearthed from Greece’s great ancient sites.
The rest of the book is a traveler’s tool kit. You’ll find plenty more about Athens’ attractions, from shopping to nightlife to less touristy sights. And there are helpful hints on saving money, avoiding crowds, getting around on public transportation, enjoying a great meal, and more.
Ninety-five percent of Athens is noisy, polluted modern sprawl, jammed with characterless concrete suburbs—poorly planned and hastily erected to house the area’s rapidly expanding population. But most visitors never see that part of Athens. Almost everything of importance to tourists is within a few blocks of the Acropolis.
A good map is a necessity for enjoying Athens on foot. The fine map the tourist info office (TI) gives out works great. You’ll concentrate on the following districts:
The Plaka (PLAH-kah, Πλάκα in Greek): This neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis is the core of the tourist’s Athens. One of the only parts of town that’s atmospheric and Old World-feeling, it’s also the most crassly touristic (souvenir shops and tacky tavernas).
Monastiraki (mah-nah-stee-RAH-kee, Μοναστηρακι): This area (“Little Monastery”) borders the Plaka to the northwest, surrounding the square of the same name. It has a handy Metro stop (where line 1/green meets line 3/blue), seedy flea market, and souvlaki stands.
Psyrri (psee-REE, Ψυρή): Formerly a dumpy ghetto just north of Monastiraki, Psyrri is now a cutting-edge nightlife and dining district—and one of central Athens’ most appealing areas to explore after dark.
Syntagma (SEEN-dag-mah, Συνταγµα): Centered on Athens’ main square, Syntagma (“Constitution”) Square, this urban-feeling zone melts into the Plaka to the south and is bounded to the east by the Parliament building and the National Garden. While the Plaka is dominated by tourist shops, Syntagma is where local urbanites do their shopping.
Thissio (thee-SEE-oh, Θησείο): West of the Ancient Agora, Thissio is an upscale, local-feeling residential neighborhood with piles of outdoor cafés and restaurants. It’s easily accessible thanks to the handy pedestrian walkway around the Acropolis.
Makrigianni (mah-kree-YAH-nee, Μακρυγιάννη) and Koukaki (koo-KAH-kee, Κουκάκι): Tucked just behind (south of) the Acropolis, these overlapping urban neighborhoods have a lived-in charm and make a good home base.
Kolonaki (koh-loh-NAH-kee, Κολωνάκι): Just north and east of the Parliament/Syntagma Square area, this upscale diplomatic quarter, with several good museums and a yuppie dining zone, huddles under the tall, pointy Lykavittos Hill.
Major Streets: The Acropolis is ringed by a broad traffic-free walkway, named Dionysiou Areopagitou (Διονυσιου Αρεοπαγιτου) to the south and Apostolou Pavlou (Αποστολου Παυλου) to the west; for simplicity, I call these the “Acropolis Loop.” Touristy Adrianou street (Αδριανου) curves through the Plaka a few blocks away from the Acropolis’ base. Partly pedestrianized Ermou street (Ερµου) runs west from Syntagma Square, defining the Plaka, Monastiraki, and Thissio to the south, and Psyrri to the north. Where Ermou meets Monastiraki, Athinas street (Αθηνας) heads north to Omonia Square.
The Acropolis/Ancient Agora, the Acropolis Museum, and the National Archaeological Museum deserve a half-day each. Two days’ total is plenty of time for the casual tourist to see the city’s main attractions.
Day 1: In the morning, follow my Athens City Walk. Grab a souvlaki lunch near Monastiraki, and spend midday in the markets (shopping in the Plaka, browsing in the Central Market, and wandering through the flea market—best on Sun). After lunch, as the crowds (and heat) subside, visit the ancient biggies: First tour the Ancient Agora, then hike up to the Acropolis (carefully confirming how late it’s open). Be the last person off the Acropolis. Stroll down the Dionysiou Areopagitou pedestrian boulevard, then promenade to dinner—in Thissio, Monastiraki, Psyrri, or the Plaka.
Day 2: Spend the morning visiting the Acropolis Museum and exploring the Plaka. After lunch, head to the National Archaeological Museum.
Day 3 and Beyond: Head out to Kolonaki to take in some of Athens’ lesser sights—the Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture, Museum of Cycladic Art, and Byzantine and Christian Museum. Or consider ditching Athens for a long but satisfying side-trip to Delphi, a sweet getaway to the isle of Hydra, or a quick dip into the Peloponnese peninsula, with the charming port town of Nafplio and the famous ancient sites of Epidavros and Mycenae. Even better, spend the night.
These are busy day-plans, so be sure to schedule in slack time for picnics, laundry, people-watching, leisurely dinners, shopping, and recharging your touristic batteries. Slow down and be open to unexpected experiences and the hospitality of the Greek people.
Trip Tips: The Acropolis combo-ticket covers entry to Athens’ major ancient sites, including the Acropolis and Ancient Agora (see here for more info).
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight. The hours for sights in Greece are often in flux, and with government spending cuts, some sights have reduced hours. I’ve listed the posted hours, but check locally for the most up-to-date information.
Download my free Athens audio tours—covering the Acropolis, Ancient Agora, National Archaeological Museum, and Athens City Walk—onto your mobile device and bring them along. For more on these, plus other sightseeing tips, see here.
A word about travel safety: Because of Greece’s “economic meltdown,” there have been demonstrations and occasional riots. But most rallies involve zero violence. When violence has broken out, it’s all been strictly between police and protesters, not bystanders...and certainly not tourists out for a stroll.
I hope you have a great trip! Traveling like a temporary local and taking advantage of the information here, you’ll enjoy the absolute most out of every mile, minute, and euro. I’m happy that you’ll be visiting places I know and love, and meeting some of my favorite Greek people.
Happy travels! Kalo taxidi!
