PLAKA AND SYNTAGMA NEIGHBORHOODS
MAKRIGIANNI AND KOUKAKI NEIGHBORHOODS
Greece’s economic struggles translate into good values at Athens hotels. Still, small, inexpensive hotels in the Plaka and Syntagma area are relatively scarce, listed in all the guidebooks, and filled with other tourists. Be willing to expand your search beyond the old center. I’ve found several gems in Makrigianni and Koukaki (behind the Acropolis and a short walk from the Plaka). These typically offer better value and a more sedate and authentic (rather than bustling and touristy) experience. I like hotels that are clean, central, a good value, and friendly, with local character and simple facilities that don’t cater to American “needs.”
Double rooms listed in this book average about €90, ranging from €55 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €350 (maximum plumbing and more).
A €90 double room in Athens is small by American standards and has one double bed (either queen-sized or slightly narrower) or two twins. If you want a bathtub, ask about one when you reserve, as most hotel bathrooms have just a shower. Most bathrooms have ancient plumbing that clogs easily. Rather than flushing toilet paper, dispose of it in the wastebasket next to the toilet. Rooms generally have a telephone and TV, and may have a safe. Most hotels at this price will have air-conditioning—cheaper places may not.
In general, lower your expectations. In ramshackle Athens, any room less than €75 will likely be clean, but expect well-worn bathrooms and furnishings.
A satisfying Greek breakfast with cheese, ham, yogurt, fresh bread, honey, jam, fruit, juice, and coffee or tea is standard and is sometimes included in hotel prices.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or Wi-Fi hotspot. Most staff speak at least enough English to get by.
Hotels are required by law to be nonsmoking, but enforcement is spotty. Hoteliers are obsessive about cleaning out odors, but if your room smells like the Marlboro man slept there, ask to be moved.
Athens is a noisy city, and Athenians like to stay out late. This, plus heavy street traffic, can challenge light sleepers. I’ve tried to recommend places in quieter areas, but finding a peaceful corner isn’t always possible. Many hotels were renovated for the 2004 Olympics, adding “soundproof” doors and windows that can help block out noise. Still, be ready to use earplugs.
Make reservations by phone, through the hotel’s website, or with an email that reads something like this:
Dear Hotel Central,
I would like to reserve a double room for 2 people for 3 nights, arriving 19 July and departing 22 July. If possible, I would like a quiet room with a double bed (not twin beds), a view of the Acropolis, and a shower (not a tub). Please let me know if you have a room available and the price. Thank you.
If they require your credit-card number for a deposit, you can send it by email (I do), but it’s safer via phone, the hotel’s secure website, or split between two emails. Once your room is booked, print out the confirmation, and reconfirm your reservation with a phone call or email a day or two in advance (alert them if you’ll be arriving after 17:00). If canceling a reservation, some hotels require advance notice—otherwise they may bill you. Even if there’s no penalty, it’s polite to give at least three days’ notice.
Because of the economic situation in Greece, you’ll find good values and soft prices. Comparison-shop by checking prices at several hotels (on each hotel’s own website, on a booking site, or by email). For the best deal, book directly with the hotel. Many hotels offer a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. To cut costs further, try asking for a cheaper room (for example, with a shared bathroom or no window) or offer to skip breakfast. Additionally, some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers.
You’ll pay a premium to stay near the Acropolis. Many hotels have Acropolis-view rooms—some for no extra charge, but usually for a higher rate.
Don’t be too cheap when picking a hotel. In summer, pay a little more for air-conditioning. And remember that cheaper places in boring neighborhoods can be depressing. Your Athens experience will be more memorable with a welcoming oasis to call home.
| PLAKA AND SYNTAGMA NEIGHBORHOODS Predictable business-class comfort near the old center | |
| $$$ Hotel Plaka Kapnikarea 7 tel. 210-322-2096, www.plakahotel.gr | Business hotel with rooftop bar/terrace and modern rooms (some with Acropolis views) |
| $$$ Hermes Hotel Apollonos 19 tel. 210-323-5514, www.hermeshotel.gr | Same owners as Hotel Plaka, but better value and newer rooms on a quiet street close to Syntagma; RS discount |
| $$$ Central Hotel Apollonos 21 tel. 210-323-4357, www.centralhotel.gr | Sleek rooms with an anonymous vibe; some rooms have balconies and views |
| $$$ Hotel Grande Bretagne Vassileos Georgiou 1 tel. 210-333-0000, www.grandebretagne.gr | Five-star splurge with 19th-century elegance; ranks among the grand hotels of the world |
| $$$ Hotel Electra Palace Nikodimou 18 tel. 210-337-0000, www.electrahotels.gr | Luxury hotel in a nondescript urban zone with plush rooms and snooty service; Acropolis-view outdoor pool |
| $$ Hotel Acropolis House Kodrou 6 tel. 210-322-2344, www.acropolishouse.gr | Homey villa filled with antiques and dark-wood furnishings, pay in cash, no elevator |
| $$ Niki Hotel Nikis 27 tel. 210-322-0913, www.nikihotel.gr | New Age hotel with tight-but-trendy rooms and reasonable rates |
| $$ Hotel Adonis Kodrou 3 tel. 210-324-9737, www.hotel-adonis.gr | On the quiet, traffic-free upper reaches of Kodrou; fourth-floor rooms have good views of the Acropolis |
| $$ Pan Hotel Mitropoleos 11 tel. 210-323-7816, www.panhotel.gr | Centrally located, just below Syntagma Square; ancient but well-maintained rooms |
| $ Hotel Kimon Apollonos 27 tel. 210-331-4658, www.kimonhotel.com | Crank-’em-out hotel with well-appointed rooms; no elevator |
| $ Hotel Phaedra Herefondos 16 tel. 210-323-8461, www.hotelphaedra.com | Simple but wonderfully located hotel two blocks from Hadrian’s Arch; breakfast extra |
| $ Student & Travellers’ Inn Kidathineon 16 tel. 210-324-4808, www.studenttravellersinn.com | Plaka’s best backpacker hostel, with recently renovated rooms; breakfast extra |
| $ Athens International Youth Hostel (a.k.a. “Hotel Victor Hugo”) 16 Victor Hugo tel. 210-523-2540, www.athens-international.com | High-rise hostel just outside the tourist zone near the Metaxourghio Metro stop |
| PSYRRI NEIGHBORHOOD Emerging nightlife and dining district just north of Monastiraki | |
| $$$ Athens Center Square Hotel Aristogitonos 15 tel. 210-321-1770, www.athenscentersquarehotel.gr | Comfortable home base amid market action; roof garden with Acropolis views; RS discount |
| $$ Hotel Cecil Athinas 39 tel. 210-321-7079, www.cecil.gr | Conveniently located on the edge of Psyrri in a lightly updated old building |
| $$ Hotel Attalos Athinas 29 tel. 210-321-2801, www.attaloshotel.com | Tired but peaceful budget standby with Acropolis views from roof; breakfast extra |
| $ Hotel Phidias Apostolou Pavlou 39 tel. 210-345-9511, www.phidias.gr | Right on the Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian drag with dated but reasonably priced rooms |
| $ Hotel Tempi Aiolou 29 tel. 210-321-3175, www.tempihotel.gr | Spartan rooms and cramped bathrooms on lively Agia Irini Square (with cafés and bars); elevator for luggage only; breakfast at café next door extra |
| MAKRIGIANNI AND KOUKAKI NEIGHBORHOODS Residential area behind the Acropolis | |
| $$$ Hotel Hera Falirou 9 tel. 210-923-6682, www.herahotel.gr | Great value near the Acropolis, with plush rooms above classy lobby |
| $$$ Hotel Acropolis Select Falirou 37 tel. 210-921-1610, www.acropoliselect.gr | Well-run hotel with can-do staff, generous breakfast, and stylish lobby |
| $$ Art Gallery Hotel Erecthiou 5 tel. 210-923-8376, www.artgalleryhotel.gr | Comfy hotel near the top of a pleasant stair-step lane; breakfast extra |
| $$ Athens Studios Veikou 3A tel. 210-923-5811, www.athensstudios.gr | Well-appointed, good-value apartments with kitchens and nice touches |
| $ Marble House Zini 35a tel. 210-923-4058, www.marblehouse.gr | Family-run place with cared-for rooms; breakfast extra, air-con extra, no elevator |
| $ Athens Backpackers Makri 12 tel. 210-922-4044, www.backpackers.gr | Youthful and fun-loving, with good bunks and two on-site bars; well-run by gregarious Aussies |