Making fondue is a great way to use up extra cheese that’s lying around—you don’t have to stick strictly to Emmentaler and Gruyère. Just be sure to use firm cheeses, and take the time to stir the pot slowly. It helps to have a glass of wine and a second pair of hands in the kitchen. If you add the cheese all at once it will separate, so slow, careful stirring—in figure eights! as my Swiss grandmother always insisted—is essential.
SERVES 4 TO 6
½ pound Emmentaler, grated
½ pound Gruyère, grated
1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
1 garlic clove, halved
1¼ cups dry white wine
Dash ground pepper
Dash nutmeg
3 tablespoons brandy or kirsch
2 crusty baguettes, cubed
Toss the grated Emmentaler and Gruyère with the flour in a large mixing bowl so that all of the cheese is lightly dusted. Then, rub the inside of your fondue pot with the halved garlic.
Place the fondue pot on the stove and add the white wine. Bring it to a boil over medium heat, then lower the heat and begin adding pinches of grated cheese, stirring in each addition and making sure it melts before you add the next bit. You’ll need to stir the mixture constantly. Figure eights!
When all of the cheese has been incorporated, move the fondue pot from the stove to a heating element on the table. Add a dash of pepper, nutmeg, and the brandy or kirsch.
Serve with a lightly dressed salad, cornichons, and the cubed bread. Remember, if you lose a piece of bread in the pot, you have to kiss the person who fishes it out for you.
Whenever I want to bring a piece of cheese home but do not want to spend over $20 per pound, I reach for Gruyère. Along with Taleggio (page 158) and Parmigiano Reggiano (page 189), Gruyère offers more bang for your buck than any other cheese, and it is so versatile! It pairs beautifully with several varieties of beer and wine, or you can knock off a hunk and tear into some hearty bread. Better yet, try it in grilled cheese sandwiches, fondue, macaroni and cheese, or scalloped potatoes. Gruyère shines brightest when it is melted.
–CHEESEMONGER HUNTER FIKE