ITALY, COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A linebacker—formidable, aromatic, and absolutely awesome.
Taleggio is the all-time great gateway stinker. It can be a bit whiffy, but mostly it’s just a bulging cushion of mushroomy lushness encased in a thin orange crust. The Italians have popularized this washed-rind cheese in a way that no other culture has dared. While the Germans have Limburger and the French have Epoisses, both of these robust cheeses tend to freak out the American palate; leave it to the Italians to popularize their tricksy little beefcake. You can enter any city supermarket now and find yourself a cuddly wedge of Taleggio, and at most parties, you’ll receive a few fist bumps from those in the know.
Lombardy is Taleggio country. The same area produces mascarpone (page 32), Gorgonzola (page 213), and Grana Padano (page 184)—all stunning. If you like the blissfully sumptuous textures of mascarpone and Gorgonzola, take a chance on Taleggio. Cheese expert Max MacCalman sums it up best when he calls it “a comfort food cheese to the max.” He compares Taleggio to eating mashed potatoes.
Good matches: Spread a fat hunk on some ciabatta bread or toasted sourdough. For a rustic meal, lay a slab of Taleggio over a bowl of piping-hot polenta, along with some sautéed mushrooms or a garlicky grilled sausage.
Wine/beer: Any big Italian bombshell will do: Barbaresco, Barolo, Brunello. A buttery Chardonnay with apple or pear notes also works well. Iron Hill Pilsner is magical.
Here’s a simple appetizer that’s become popular at cheesemonger parties: scoop a teaspoon or so of ripe Taleggio onto a thin slice of salami, then fold it in half. Seal the edges by running your finger along it and applying light pressure. Boom, you’ve got a half moon of salty meat that oozes soft cheese when you bite in. Ninth Street cheesemongers love to serve these puppies after hours with beer.