The early religious orders of Europe are famous for washing cheese with spirits. The process adds color to the rind—usually a twinge of moonish orange—and dials up bold flavors. Washed-rind cheeses, as these are called, are often a bit “beefy” or “brothy” in taste. In other words, they’re robust. It’s thought that monks, who lived modestly—often without eating meat—developed this style of cheese to satisfy their hankering for beef.
This cheese board needs some Gregorian chants and big Trappist ales. If you can’t find one of the selections below, substitute authentic Munster (page 152), which is a corruption of the word “monastery,” or Hooligan (page 148), a Trappist-style stinker from Cato Corner Farm in Connecticut. Pecorino di Fossa (page 190), a fermented cheese with religious significance, is also a great addition.
Suggested accompaniments: Serve this board with grapes, fig jam, caramelized onions, speck (cured ham), coarse mustard, baguette, and walnut bread.