The hunks in this chapter are mild and friendly, but it doesn’t mean that they’re wallflowers. In fact, some of the most revered cheeses are quite delicate, like Idiazábal (page 49) and Ossau-Iraty (page 56), two Spanish lovers prized for their understated flavors. These are great party cheeses, special enough to impress chowhounds but gentle enough to appease finicky friends.
Abbaye de Belloc | Appleby’s Cheshire | Berkswell | Caramelized Endive Marmalade | Camembert du Bocage | Cantal | Garrotxa | Haystack Queso de Mano | Idiazábal | Mahón | Manchego | Manchego and Marcona Almond Pesto | Mimolette | Mrs. Kirkham’s Tasty Lancashire | Nevat | Nuvola di Pecora | Ossau-Iraty | Pantaleo | Petit Basque | Seven Sisters | Wensleydale | Cheese Board: Desk Bento for One | Cheese 101: Alone with Olives: A Novice’s Guide
FRANCE, RAW SHEEP’S MILK
PERSONALITY: Graceful and complex, like a monk enrobed in rustic silence.
As you eat this cheese made by the Benedictines of the Abbaye de Notre-Dame de Belloc, think of blanched almonds and brown butter. This much-loved quiet type from the western Pyrénées is gentle and sweetly nutty without the mutton-chop antagonism that sometimes pops up in cheeses made from sheep’s milk. Thank the red-nosed Manech ewes that graze around the abbey; quality milk and skillful monks contribute to the superb balance of flavors here.
Note the rind, which looks like the sheath of a Brazil nut (its vaguely reddish color comes from a good rubdown with paprika). The ivory paste should be firm and smooth, like fresh sheets on a farmhouse bed. If you’re a fan of Ossau-Iraty (page 56), a popular Spanish cheese, be sure to try this version. It’s loosely based on the same recipe, but Abbaye de Belloc bears the distinction of being a monastic French sheep’s milk cheese—a rarity.
Good matches: Offer this with a touch of golden honey and some rustic bread. On a cheese plate, beware of overshadowing this gem with too many strong flavors. Keep it simple with almonds, fruit, and a handful of other mellow sweeties. Try serving thin slices atop a lightly dressed salad of butter lettuce and pears.
Wine/beer: This is a versatile cheese when it comes to wine. Rosé works perfectly, so do most summery whites, or if your wedge of Abbaye de Belloc is punchy from age, pop the cork on that bottle of Chateau Margaux you’ve been saving. Midas Touch, a saffron-kissed ale from Dogfish Head, is a stunning side.
ENGLAND, RAW COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: Cheddar’s granddad, a ruddy sea captain with a mellow disposition.
Before there was Cheddar, there was Cheshire. In fact, records show that this is England’s oldest cheese. First mention appears in the Domesday Book of 1086 A.D., and later, ship captains’ logs reveal that Cheshire was a favorite on long ocean voyages—probably because it traveled well. Like other clothbound cheeses, it’s a dense form of sustenance. It’s also protein-packed and surprisingly mild.
Today the loveliest Cheshire comes from Lucy Appleby’s farm in Shropshire, where it’s formed into large drums and wrapped in calico. If you have a hankering for something earthy and easygoing, give it a try. Like traditional British Cheddar, it has a hint of rustic tang, but on the whole, Cheshire is milder and moister. If Cheddar is a tiger, then Cheshire is the family cat. Don’t be alarmed by the bright orange coloring; the pigment comes from a natural dye extracted from the annatto plant.
Good matches: Cut off hunks of Cheshire with your pen knife and layer them over warm apple pie. Or, enjoy a wedge alongside fall fruit. This is an excellent cheese for melting on thick toast, especially with a schmear of caramelized onions.
Wine/beer: Pair this with a young Zinfandel, a mild brown ale, or a spot of single-malt scotch.