AFFINEUR
A person who specializes in ageing cheeses. This may involve rubbing, washing, turning, and tasting wheels at various points as they mature.
ALPINE
A term for cheeses that originate in the Alps. Usually these are mountain cheeses from Switzerland, France, or Italy, but even Vermont cheeses, for example, may be referred to as “Alpine” in style if they exhibit particular flavors and textures.
ANNATTO
A natural orange coloring derived from annatto seeds. See Cheesemonger Note (page 43).
ARTISAN
The term implies artistry by a craft person, but this is loosely defined in the cheese world where many large companies label their cheeses “artisan.” In the context of this book, artisan is used to describe high-quality cheeses that are made by hand in small quantities.
BLOOMY
A reference to white-rinded cheeses that have a thin layer of downy mold on their surfaces, thanks to Penicillium candidum. Brie is a good example.
BLUE CHEESE
A type of cheese with blue veins or markings, created by mixing mold spores (usually Penicillium roqueforti) into the milk or the curds during the cheese-making process. The blue color only develops when the wheels are pierced, usually with long needles, to create air vents. Contrary to popular belief, blue cheeses are not injected with blue mold.
BRINE
A salt-water solution that is sometimes used to wash cheeses; these are often referred to as “washed-rind” cheeses. The brine solution encourages some bacterial growth, inhibiting others; it also keeps the surface moist. Brine-washed cheeses are often recognizable by their orange rinds (Taleggio, page 158, is a good example). Some cheeses, like feta, are stored in brine.
CHEESEMONGER
A person devoted to the care and study of cheese as part of his or her livelihood, typically at a cheese counter.
CHÈVRE
Soft, fresh goat’s milk cheese, from the French word for “goat.” Note that it comes in many shapes, from logs to small rounds.
Usually applied to traditional British Cheddars that are bound in muslin or calico. Cheeses that are clothbound, or “bandaged,” often have a slightly musty flavor. The cloth protects the cheese as it ages and prevents a rind from forming.
CREAMLINE
A viscous layer below the rind of certain cheeses, usually a positive sign of ageing. Cheeses that ripen from the outside in develop this as bacteria begin breaking down the paste. Gorwydd Caerphilly (page 170) is a good example.
CROTTIN
A muffin-sized cylinder of goat cheese. The word derives from old French, meaning “animal dropping.”
CURD
The solid matter that forms when milk is curdled.
FARMSTEAD
A cheese that is made from the milk of a single farm where the cheesemaker is often involved in raising animals. Use of the word “farmstead” usually indicates that a cheese is made in small batches, by hand.
GRASS-FED MILK
Refers to milk from animals that have been pasture-raised. Typically, grass-fed milk has more flavor than milk from animals that have been fed corn and silage.
MOLD
This can refer to spores that are stirred into the milk or into the curds during the cheesemaking process, or it can refer to ambient molds that live in cheese caves and contribute to the development of certain cheese rinds. Common molds used in cheesemaking include Penicillium candidum, Penicillium glaucum, and Penicillium roqueforti. The latter two are used in making blue cheese.
MONASTIC CHEESE
Any cheese that was developed by monks in a monastery. Usually these are fairly potent. Monastic cheeses often pair well with abbey beers, for obvious reasons.
NAME-PROTECTED
A term used in this book to refer to cheeses that are carefully regulated by their countries of origin, like Stilton, for example. Within the industry there are more formal designations for these cheeses. The European Union uses the term Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) to regulate products sourced or manufactured in certain geographic regions. Various national systems have evolved to refine this designation, including the French AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée) and the Italian DOC (Denominazione d’Origine Controllata).
PASTE
The part of the cheese that is not the rind.
The United States government defines this as milk that has been heated to a minimum of 143°F for at least thirty minutes or a minimum of 161°F for at least fifteen seconds.
RAW MILK
Fresh milk, straight from the udder, that has not been pasteurized according to government specifications. By law, cheese made from raw milk must be aged sixty days or more before it can be sold.
RENNET
An ingredient used in cheesemaking to coagulate fresh milk. Traditionally, rennet was extracted from the stomach lining of animals. Today, a variety of microbial rennets are available from labs, including vegetarian rennet.
RIND
The exterior layer of some cheeses (not all cheeses have rinds). Many rinds are edible; some are not, especially if the cheese has been dipped in wax. As a rule of thumb: eat the rind if it looks appealing to you.
TOMME
A French term that refers to a rustic round of cheese, usually affiliated with its region of origin. Tomme de Savoie (page 135) is a classic example.
WASHED-RIND
A style of cheese where brine or spirits are applied to the surface as it ripens. “Washing” cheese enhances its flavor and texture. Epoisses (page 143) is the classic example.