BECAUSE IT’S A FAT, MEATY FISH, MONKFISH IS AN EXCELLENT candidate for roasting. The ambient heat of the oven ensures uniform cooking of the fish. Monkfish is also very forgiving; it stays juicy even if you overcook it (but don’t, if you can help it). And, unlike thinner fish, monkfish can rest and finish cooking, while you make the sauce, without becoming cold or dry. It sometimes comes with a tough outer membrane or silver skin, which you should remove if your fishmonger hasn’t already done so. It also has a single spine that runs down half the tail. I prefer to cook it with the bone removed for easier slicing; if you like, it can be roasted with the bone in.
The sauce, made from fresh tomatoes and basil, is one of my favorite all-purpose sauces for use on mild fish and white meat, and especially on pasta. It takes advantage of salt’s capacity to extract copious water out of the tomatoes. This flavorful tomato water is strained into the same pan the fish roasted in and then mounted with butter to create an excellent sauce base. The fish can be returned to the pan when the sauce is hot to keep it warm if you wish.