CAULIFLOWER THREE WAYS

I’VE WRITTEN ABOUT THIS BEFORE BUT I HAVE TO INCLUDE it again here, with a couple of variations, because the transformation from crunchy raw veg to exquisite, complex, nutty deliciousness is so dramatic. I merely mention it aloud and the thought makes Donna exclaim, “Oh! So good!”

It really is as simple as high heat, a skillet, and plenty of butter. High heat to caramelize the big, moist vegetable; a skillet to encourage circulation (I use cast iron); and butter to help cook it (the butter also browns with the cauliflower, adding that wonderfully complex browned-butter flavor).

I’ll describe the basic recipe first, and then go into the variations. I like to roast a whole head of cauliflower because it’s a beautiful centerpiece for a family-style meal. But it takes a good hour to cook, so when I forget to get it into the oven in time, I cut the cauliflower into florets and roast them as I would broccoli.

When you’re pan roasting it’s best to use a side towel, rather than an awkward potholder, to retrieve the pan; leave that towel on the pan’s handle anytime it’s out of the oven so no one mistakenly grabs it and gets burned.

Basic Roasted Cauliflower

1 head cauliflower

6 tablespoons/90 grams butter, at room temperature

Kosher salt

SERVES 4

  • PREHEAT the oven to 425°F/220°C (use convection if you have it).
  • CUT the stem and leaves off the cauliflower so that it will sit flat in a skillet; the more of the cauliflower that’s in contact with the skillet the better, as it gets very brown and tasty.
  • SET the cauliflower in an ovenproof skillet and SMEAR the butter all over the surface. GIVE it a liberal sprinkling of salt.
  • ROAST till tender (a long knife should slide easily down into the cauliflower all the way through to its stem), 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. Several times while it’s roasting, BASTE it with the butter, which will have melted and started to brown. (If you’re roasting a cut-up cauliflower, simply PUT the florets and butter in the skillet and PUT it in the oven. After 5 or 10 minutes, STIR and TOSS the cauliflower to coat the florets with the melted butter, and then continue roasting and basting till tender, 30 to 40 minutes.)
  • SERVE immediately, in wedges or slices, or KEEP warm and REHEAT for a few minutes in a hot oven before serving.

Roasted Cauliflower with Capers, Anchovies, Raisins, and Pine Nuts

2 anchovies, minced

2 tablespoons capers, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons golden raisins, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets and roasted

¼ cup/40 grams toasted pine nuts

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

SERVES 4

  • In a small bowl, COMBINE the anchovies, capers, raisins, and balsamic vinegar and STIR to combine. SPRINKLE the mixture over the cauliflower and STIR to distribute the garnish uniformly. SPRINKLE the pine nuts over the cauliflower, followed by the parsley, and SERVE right from the skillet.

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Step 1. Smear or pour soft butter all over the cauliflower and roast.

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Step 2. Baste frequently during the hourlong cook.

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Step 3. The quirky cauliflower Polonaise with its garnishes.

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Step 4. A whole roasted cauliflower garnished with hard-cooked egg, bread crumbs, and parsley makes a great centerpiece for a meat-free meal or an impressive side dish for roasted meat or fish.

Roasted Cauliflower Polonaise

Boiled cauliflower with hard-cooked eggs, bread crumbs, and parsley? When I first learned this old preparation, in a culinary basics class at the CIA, I thought it was too goofy for words. But when I asked my cooking partner, Adam Shepard, what he thought of it, he said, “I’d serve it at my restaurant. Though I’d figure out a way to make the egg and bread crumbs stick to the cauliflower.” That he took it seriously made me take it seriously. As my appreciation of classic dishes grew, so too did my affection for this dish. Prepare it with roasted cauliflower rather than boiled, and it becomes a great dish for any occasion.

1 head cauliflower (whole or cut into florets), roasted

1 tablespoon butter, if needed

¼ cup/20 grams panko bread crumbs

1 lemon wedge

1 or 2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

SERVES 4

  • PLACE the hot roasted cauliflower on a serving platter. If there is no remaining butter in the skillet, ADD another tablespoon. ADD the bread crumbs to the skillet and COOK over medium-high heat till they’re toasted.
  • SQUEEZE the lemon over the cauliflower and then SPOON the toasted bread crumbs over the cauliflower. SPOON the chopped egg over the cauliflower (don’t worry if it doesn’t stick). SPRINKLE it with parsley and SERVE in wedges or slices, scooping up extra garnish as you do so.
  • If you’re using roasted florets, MELT 1 tablespoon butter in a separate small skillet over medium-high heat and TOAST the bread crumbs. To serve, simply SPRINKLE the lemon juice, toasted bread crumbs, chopped egg, and parsley uniformly over the top of the florets and SERVE right from the skillet.