2
Breakfasts

We all know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, yet we still sometimes skip it. During colonial times, breakfast was considered the most important meal of the day because workers in the sugarcane fields needed all the energy they could get. Caribbean breakfast dishes were molded to fit the industrial period of sugarcane production: high-energy dishes that contained corn, barley, and wheat. Field workers packed items like porridge or johnnycakes and ate them with tea or mauby and sugar water. Breakfast was usually eaten at 10 AM, since that was when field workers got a break. Before these workers left home, they would have bush tea, made from herbs and plants growing in their gardens. This tea would sustain them all morning. Even now, many people in the Caribbean eat breakfast later than elsewhere. They call this breakfast “break,” and it is basically brunch.

The breakfast menu is changing in modern-day Caribbean homes. Many people are turning to smoothies, high-protein dishes, and porridge with fruit for the first meal of the day. Included in this chapter are Caribbean-style porridges made from starchy fruits or root vegetables. Although the nature of breakfast has changed, it’s still important to start our busy, active days with a morning meal that can sustain and nurture us until lunch.

In the early days, most breakfast dishes were savory, which may be due to the influence of British culture. If an island changed hands, the cuisine, including breakfast dishes, often evolved to reflect the change. Today, breakfast in the Caribbean has become very Americanized, with foods like ready-made pancake mixes and sausages widely available. However, many people still enjoy the traditional breakfast dishes that shaped our food culture.

Sweet

Mixed Nut and Seed Milk

This is a great mixed milk that you can make ahead to last a week. This recipe is on the level of commercial nondairy milks but is slightly thicker and sweeter. Feel free to experiment with different combos of nuts. Nut milk bags are used to strain nut pulp and can be purchased online. Alternatively use two layers of cheesecloth, which is an effective straining method.

MAKES 9 CUPS (2.1 L)

1 cup (140 g) raw almonds

½ cup (65 g) raw pumpkin seeds

½ cup (75 g) raw hazelnuts, optional

2 heaping tablespoons hemp seeds

9 cups (2.1 L) water

2 tablespoons or more agave nectar

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

⅛ teaspoon xanthan gum

Place the almonds, pumpkin seeds, optional hazelnuts, and hemp seeds in individual bowls. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) of water into each bowl, cover, and let soak overnight in the refrigerator.
The next day, drain and place the nuts and seeds in a blender. Add 5 cups (1.2 L) of water and blend on high until the nuts have completely broken down.
Line a sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth and place it over a large bowl. Pour in the nut milk mixture, gather up the edges of the cheesecloth, and squeeze out the liquid. Alternatively put the nut milk mixture into a nut milk bag and squeeze into a bowl.
Wash the blender container to remove any residue. Pour the milk back into the blender; add the agave nectar, salt, and xantham gum; and blend on high to combine, about 1 minute.
Pour the milk into a bottle and refrigerate. It will stay fresh for 5 days.

ISLAND TIP

Love chocolate? Add some cocoa to make chocolate milk! Add 1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons Dutch-process cocoa powder and ⅓ cup (80 ml) agave nectar to the blender when you add the xanthan gum; blend on high until combined.

Plantain Porridge

Let’s get this out of the way—porridge was not always the most glamorous meal. Maybe it is the name or maybe it is the gray, lumpy mass of oatmeal we remember from breakfast buffets. In the Caribbean we make porridge out of any starchy vegetable. The regional version is very easy to make, if you just remember three things. Cook the vegetable thoroughly. Mash or blend the vegetable. Then flavor it well with sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, or bay leaf. Do not forget a pinch of salt. You can use any combo of vegetables: Imagine sweet potato porridge with a splash of maple and crushed pecans. Vegetable porridges are the perfect meal after a morning workout. If you’d like, you can leave out the sugar, but in any case you’ll get a boost of minerals and vitamins to give your day a nutritious start. Use whatever dairy-free milk you’d like. Coconut milk adds more fat, and by extension calories, than other options, but it creates a heavier porridge that will give you energy for hours. Almond milk is lighter and lets the taste of the vegetable shine through.

SERVES 2

2 raw plantains, chopped in 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

1 cup (240 ml) water

1½ cups (360 ml) almond milk or other nondairy milk, plus extra as needed

1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons brown sugar, plus more to taste

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger

1 cinnamon stick

1 bay leaf

1 pinch of pink or sea salt

1 tablespoon vanilla essence, or 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

2 tablespoons Health Topper, optional

Boil the plantains in the water in a medium saucepan until soft and fork tender, about 15 minutes for ripe plantains. Transfer the plantains and cooking water to a blender and blend on high until smooth.
Return the pureed plantain to the saucepan. Add the milk, sugar, ginger, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, and salt and whisk over medium heat until the mixture has a uniform consistency. Simmer uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the plantain has cooked through and the porridge comes together, about 15 minutes.
Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Stir in the vanilla essence and serve hot. If the porridge is too thick, add a little almond milk and adjust the sweetness to taste. Sprinkle on about 1 tablespoon optional health topper per serving.

ISLAND TIP

Make this recipe sugar-free by omitting the brown sugar and blending 3 pitted dates into the almond milk before whisking it into the plantains. Top your bowl with pieces of fried plantain and toasted coconut for texture.

Breadfruit Porridge

Breadfruit is high in carbs and vitamin C, has a mellow flavor, and makes an excellent holding porridge—that is, a porridge that can keep you full until lunch or even beyond. Any food with a high vitamin and mineral content is considered a superfood, and breadfruit fits the description.

SERVES 2

1 cup (225 g) peeled raw breadfruit, diced

1½ cups (360 ml) water

2 cups (480 ml) light coconut milk or 1 cup (240 ml) rich coconut milk plus 1 cup (240 ml) water

1 bay leaf

1 whole star anise

1 cassia stick or cinnamon stick

1 cup (240 ml) nondairy milk, such as coconut, soy, almond, or hemp

1 tablespoon brown sugar, or more to taste

1 teaspoon almond or vanilla essence, or ½ teaspoon vanilla or almond extract

Pinch of pink or sea salt

Boil the breadfruit in a medium saucepan about 17 minutes, until fork tender, then drain off the water.
Add the coconut milk, bay leaf, star anise, and cassia to the pan. Cook uncovered over medium heat, stirring periodically, until heated through, about 10 minutes.
Remove the pan from the stove and discard the bay leaf, star anise, and cassia. Let the breadfruit mixture cool a bit to prevent getting seriously burned from blending the hot porridge.
Pour the mixture into a blender and blend on high just until mixed. Add the nondairy milk, sugar, almond essence, and salt. Blend on high until smooth. Reheat the porridge before serving if necessary.

ISLAND TIP

This recipe makes a thick porridge; add more milk for a thinner consistency and sweeten to taste.

Oatmeal Pie with Health Topper

Oatmeal Pie is a customizable breakfast recipe that can be made ahead, refrigerated, and consumed throughout the week. Oatmeal Pie can be a gluten-free oatmeal bread (if using certified gluten-free oats) that can be topped with your favorite ingredients. It can be served hot or cold, with milk or without. This recipe is naturally sweetened with dates, apples, and bananas. Top your pie with Health Topper or fruits or nuts of your choice.

SERVES 8

5 cups (400 g) quick-cooking oats

2 ripe bananas, sliced

7 dates, pitted

1 small apple, cored and thinly sliced

3 cups (720 ml) almond milk or other nondairy milk

½ cup (50 g) chopped walnut halves

¼ cup (30 g) quinoa flour

2 tablespoons hemp seeds

2 tablespoons flax meal

2 tablespoons juicy raisins

2 tablespoons coconut oil

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 tablespoon vanilla essence, or ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 scant teaspoon pink or sea salt

2 tablespoons Health Topper, optional

10 fresh or frozen blueberries

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly grease a 9 × 5-inch (23 × 13 cm) loaf pan.
Place the oatmeal in a medium bowl. Place the bananas, dates, apple, milk, and walnuts in a blender and blend on high until smooth. Pour it over the oatmeal and stir just to combine.
Add the quinoa flour, hemp seeds, flax meal, raisins, coconut oil, baking powder, vanilla essence, and salt and mix well.
Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pan and sprinkle the optional Health Topper and blueberries over the top. Bake for 30 minutes, or until it’s browned and pulls away slightly from the sides of the pan.
Cool and chill in the pan. Leave uncovered, but cover it after taking the first serving. To serve warm, slice off a piece and heat it up in the oven or microwave. Serve cold by slicing a piece and putting it in a bowl of milk, eating it with a spoon or fork.

ISLAND TIP

Are you nuts for coconuts? Stir in ½ cup (50 g) finely grated fresh coconut into the batter and top the unbaked loaf with more for a tasty variation.

Health Topper

Time is at a premium in the mornings, and many of us forget to take our vitamins or fail to consume adequate vitamins and minerals from our diets. Imagine if you could make a delicious topping that you could add to almost any dish, one that would turn a fruit salad into a high-protein snack in a matter of seconds. Just 1 tablespoon of this topper transforms smoothies into protein shakes and gives cakes and breads a delicious, healthful crunch. The moringa powders are key players in increasing the nutrient profile of the topper.

SERVES 8

½ cup (50 g) chopped walnut halves

2 heaping tablespoons flax meal

2 tablespoons roasted pumpkin seeds

2 tablespoons roasted sunflower seeds

1 heaping tablespoon chia seeds

1 tablespoon brown sugar, coconut sugar, date sugar, or stevia

1 tablespoon hemp seeds

2 teaspoons Moringa Leaf Powder

1 heaping teaspoon moringa seed powder (see Island Tips)

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

Place the walnuts, flax meal, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, chia seeds, sugar, hemp seeds, moringa leaf powder, moringa seed powder, ginger, cinnamon, and salt in a blender and pulse on high until homogenized.
Store in an airtight container.

ISLAND TIPS

This lasts longer in the fridge; in a sealed container it can last up to 3 months. Get in the habit of making it every week so you always have Health Topper on hand. This makes a great gift packaged with a bag of oatmeal, spices, and nondairy milk.

Moringa seed powder is a store-bought brown powder that has a coffee-like flavor.

Banana Fritters

There are two ways to make banana fritters. Nationals of the French West Indies make a batter, dip pieces of rum-soaked banana into it, and fry them. In the English-speaking Caribbean, we usually blend mashed banana into a batter. If you are a banana lover, these doughnut-like fritters will fix your craving.

SERVES 6

2 to 3 overripe bananas

1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1½ teaspoons vanilla essence, or ¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon Angostura bitters

1¼ cups (160 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon cornstarch

3 tablespoons nondairy milk

¼ teaspoon pink or sea salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

Canola oil

Granulated sugar

Put the bananas in a bowl and mash until very smooth. Stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla essence, and bitters. Add the flour and baking powder and stir until well combined. Stir the cornstarch into the nondairy milk. Pour the milk into the batter, add the salt and baking soda, and mix well.
Heat about ¾ inch (2 cm) of oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Test if the oil is ready by spooning a little batter into the oil; it is ready when the batter sizzles vigorously and floats to the surface. (Do not forget to remove this small piece of batter from the oil.) Carefully spoon the batter into the oil, using about 1 heaping tablespoon for each fritter. Cook for 1 minute, then turn the heat down to medium, turn the fritters, and cook for 4 minutes more, turning periodically.
Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with the granulated sugar and serve warm.

ISLAND TIP

Reducing the flour by ¼ cup (30 g) makes more concentrated banana fritters.

Pumpkin Fritters

In the Caribbean, calabaza squash is called pumpkin (or more specifically, West Indian pumpkin), so we call these pumpkin fritters. They are fried morsels of a batter made with grated calabaza squash, sugar, and spices. They are eaten for breakfast in the Caribbean, sprinkled with sugar. They actually taste like a pumpkin doughnut.

SERVES 6

1 cup (250 g) finely grated calabaza squash, pumpkin, or other winter squash

⅔ cup (85 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon nondairy milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon cornstarch

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or cassia

¼ teaspoon pink or sea salt

Canola oil

Granulated sugar

Mix the calabaza squash, flour, sugar, nondairy milk, vanilla, baking powder, cornstarch, nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt together until well combined. The batter should be fairly soft but still stiff. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to help the batter thicken.
Heat about ¾ inch (2 cm) of oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Test if the oil is ready by spooning a little batter into the oil; it is ready when the batter sizzles vigorously and floats to the surface. (Do not forget to remove this small piece of batter from the oil.) Carefully spoon the batter into the oil, using about a heaping tablespoon batter for each fritter. Cook for 35 seconds, then turn the fritters over and cook for 30 seconds. Turn the heat down to low and cook the fritters, turning often, for about 5 minutes, until the fritters are golden brown.
Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with granulated sugar and serve warm.

Cornmeal Bakes

These Bajan Cornmeal Bakes are quite different from the Saint Lucian Bakes. The batter is similar to pancake batter but a little firmer, and they’re cooked differently than pancakes. They’re fried in big clumps rather than flat, and with a little more oil than typically used for pancakes. The result is crispy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside. Although they are considered an old-fashioned food, there is nothing old-fashioned about the taste. They are perfect for brunch as a change from pancakes and waffles. Serve them on their own, or with jam.

MAKES 6 BAKES

¾ cup (95 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup (60 g) fine cornmeal or corn flour

¼ cup (30 g) millet flour or another ¼ cup (30 g) fine cornmeal or corn flour

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or cassia

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon vanilla essence, or ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup (240 ml) nondairy milk

Canola oil

Stir the flour, cornmeal, millet flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg together. Stir the vanilla into the nondairy milk. Add the milk to the flour mixture and mix lightly, until just combined.
Heat about ¾ inch (2 cm) of oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Test the oil by dropping a little bit of batter into the oil; the oil is ready when the batter sizzles vigorously. (Do not forget to remove this small piece of batter from the oil.) Carefully spoon the batter into the oil, using about 2 heaping tablespoons of batter for each bake. Turn the heat down to medium-low and fry the bakes for about 5 minutes, turning frequently to cook both sides evenly. The bakes are ready when they are golden brown with a crispy exterior.
Drain on paper towels. Serve warm.

Cassava Pancakes with Bittersweet “Honey” Butter

Cassava is a root vegetable cultivated in tropical America and in some African countries. The flour is gluten-free and high in protein and vitamin C. Although you can buy cassava flour from most Caribbean markets, it is easy to make at home. Cassava flour has a neutral flavor, like white flour, and the texture of the finished product is as tender as if eggs had been used. This is why cassava is my preferred flour for pancakes, on its own or paired with other flours.

SERVES 3

BITTERSWEET “HONEY” BUTTER

¼ cup (60 g) tablespoons vegan margarine

1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons agave nectar, or 1 tablespoon brown sugar

½ teaspoon grated orange zest

Pinch of lavender, optional

Pinch of pink or sea salt

PANCAKES

½ cup (65 g) cassava flour

½ cup (60 g) spelt flour or whole wheat flour

½ cup (60 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 heaping teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

3 tablespoons vegan margarine

1½ cups (360 ml) cold nondairy milk

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon vanilla essence or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

To make the “honey butter,”mix the margarine, agave nectar, zest, lavender, and salt in a small bowl. Set aside to allow the flavors to marry.
To make the pancakes, combine the cassava flour, spelt flour, and all-purpose flour in a medium bowl. Add the sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt; stir to combine. Rub 1 tablespoon of the margarine into the flour mixture using your fingertips or a fork until it looks like coarse sand.
Combine the milk and vinegar in a small bowl, and stir briefly. You should see the milk start to curdle.
Add the milk mixture and vanilla essence to the flour mixture, and stir until well combined.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of margarine in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Pour the batter into the pan, using approximately ¼ cup (60 ml) for small pancakes or a scant ½ cup (100 ml) for large pancakes. Cook one pancake at a time for about 1 minute on each side until slightly brown at the surface. Do not press them, as this will take the air out of the pancakes and make them dense.
Serve warm with the Bittersweet “Honey” Butter.

Coconut Orange Pancakes

Pancakes became popular in the Caribbean in the late 1980s. Many Caribbean nationals had emigrated to the United States and Canada, and when they returned, they made pancakes in the morning for their families. I loved pancakes, but after I went vegan I gave up hope of eating them because I thought I would never be able to achieve a fluffy, soft pancake without eggs. But eventually I did, and today I’m a happy vegan pancake lover. Try these pancakes for your next brunch. The candied coconut is optional, but I highly recommend it.

SERVES 6

CANDIED SPICED COCONUT

¼ cup (25 g) finely grated fresh coconut or unsweetened dried coconut

¼ cup (60 ml) fresh orange juice

3 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon brown sugar

⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of ground cinnamon

PANCAKES

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1¼ cups (300 ml) nondairy milk

¾ cup (95 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup (60 g) whole wheat flour

2 tablespoons light brown sugar or granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ cup (50 g) finely grated fresh coconut

1½ teaspoons almond essence, or ¾ teaspoon almond extract

½ teaspoon grated orange zest

½ cup (120 ml) fresh orange juice

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

Vegan margarine

Orange sections, optional

To make the candied coconut, combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, until the liquid is reduced by about half. If you want a drier coconut mixture, cook for 10 minutes more, until the coconut is cooked. Remove from the heat and set aside.
To make the pancakes, stir the vinegar into the nondairy milk. Separately, stir the flours, sugar, baking powder, and baking soda together. Add the fresh coconut, almond essence, and orange zest to the milk. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture and stir to incorporate. Stir in the orange juice and salt and mix well. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to help the batter thicken.
Heat a griddle or large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Once it’s hot, put a little margarine in the pan. Spoon the batter into the pan, using a scant ¼ cup (60 ml) for each pancake. Cook the pancakes for 3½ to 4 minutes on each side, until golden brown.
Decorate the pancakes with the candied coconut, optional orange sections, and, if desired, chocolate ganache (see Island Tip).

ISLAND TIP

If you want denser pancakes, add ¼ cup (30 g) more flour of your choice. To make chocolate ganache, just melt some dark chocolate, then stir in a bit of nondairy milk—but not too much. The ganache should be quite thick.

Barbadian Muffins

Barbadians have a sweet tooth. This is their take on the English muffin. A nice vegan cheddar would be a good accompaniment.

MAKES SIX 2-INCH (5 CM) MUFFINS

¼ teaspoon apple cider vinegar

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (135 ml) nondairy milk

1½ cups (190 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or cassia

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons vegetable shortening

⅔ cup (160 ml) canola oil

Stir the vinegar into the nondairy milk. Separately, mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg together in a bowl. Add the shortening and rub it in to the flour with your fingertips or a pastry blender. Slowly pour in the milk and stir until the dough comes together.
Knead the dough in the bowl for 4 minutes, until the dough is mixed well and slightly elastic. Let the dough relax for 15 minutes.
Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces and pat each into a disk about ½ inch (1.3 cm) thick.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the dough pieces and cook for 20 seconds on one side. Turn them immediately and cook for 30 seconds. Turn the heat down to low and cook the muffins for 10 minutes, turning every 2 minutes. The finished muffins should be light and crispy with a golden brown color.
Drain the muffins on paper towels and serve warm.

Sunny Morning Granola

This island-inspired recipe calls for quick-cooking oats, which will break down easily in nondairy milk. It’s a customizable, sugar-free cereal that gives you all you need to start the day. If you like, substitute blended date water for the agave nectar (see Island Tips). Good granola is so well flavored that it tastes good on its own. The oats need to be baked slowly, and they must be dry before storing.

SERVES 12

1 ripe banana

1½ cups (360 ml) fruit juice, any kind

⅓ cup (80 ml) agave nectar

1 tablespoon Angostura bitters, optional

5 cups (400 g) quick-cooking oats

½ cup (50 g) flax meal

2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

1½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

¼ cup (60 ml) coconut oil or a neutral-flavored oil

1 cup (90 g) desiccated coconut

1 cup (130 g) chopped nuts, such as pecans, walnuts, or almonds

½ cup (75 g) currants or raisins

½ cup (60 g) hemp seeds, optional

½ cup (80 g) chia seeds optional

1½ teaspoons ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground allspice

Preheat the oven to 190°F (90°C). Line two baking sheets with silicone mats or parchment paper.
Place the banana, fruit juice, agave nectar, and optional bitters in a blender and blend on high until smooth.
Combine the oatmeal, flax meal, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl. Add the banana mixture and the oil and mix thoroughly to coat the oatmeal evenly.
Divide the oatmeal mixture evenly in the prepared pans, spreading it into an flat layer, no more than ½ inch (1.3 cm) thick.
Bake the oatmeal, turning every 20 minutes, for 1½ hours, or until slightly toasted.
Add the coconut, nuts, currants, optional hemp seeds, and optional chia seeds to the two baking sheets and gently incorporate the ingredients. Stir in the nutmeg and allspice and bake for another 35 minutes or until the granola is brittle.
Cool the granola thoroughly and store it in an airtight container. It will keep for up to 2 months.

ISLAND TIPS

If the granola is not totally dry after 1½ hours, bake for another 20 minutes, or until it is totally dry.

To further boost the nutritional profile of the granola, sprinkle some Health Topper over top before eating.

To make date water, blend 2 dates in 1 cup (240 ml) water.

Sweet Potato Drop Biscuits

This savory and sweet biscuit is not a traditional Caribbean recipe, but the flavor profile is typical of island cuisine, and it is a good way to use orange-fleshed sweet potatoes. In the Caribbean, biscuits are usually obtained from fast-food outlets that offer typical American fare. I have included these because I think they are a good substitute for buttermilk biscuits. These biscuits don’t fit into the category of savory or sweet—that is why they are good with either savory scrambles or jam.

MAKES 9 BISCUITS

7 ounces (200 g) orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped

2 cups (250 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

½ cup (115 g) cold vegan margarine

¼ cup (50 g) brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

¾ cup (180 ml) nondairy milk

Cook the sweet potatoes in boiling salted water for about 20 minutes, until just tender. Mash the sweet potatoes well and set aside in a bowl. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Lightly grease a baking sheet.
Stir the flour, salt, baking soda, cinnamon, and cloves together. Add the margarine and rub it into the flour with your fingertips or a pastry blender until the mixture has the texture of coarse bread crumbs. Add the brown sugar, baking powder, nondairy milk, and sweet potatoes and mix lightly, until just combined.
Drop 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter onto the prepared baking sheet for each biscuit, leaving at least 1½ inches (4 cm) between them. Bake for about 20 minutes, until golden brown. Serve warm.

Calabaza Squash Cinnamon Rolls

This is a great way to use up extra squash during the fall harvest, which is integrated into the dough. Cinnamon is added to the filling to shake things up a bit. The finished rolls can then be topped with a vegan cream cheese frosting.

MAKES 8 ROLLS

1 cup (125 g) sliced calabaza squash

1½ cups (360 ml) water

3½ cups (440 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

3 heaping tablespoons light brown sugar

2 tablespoons instant yeast

1 tablespoon vegan margarine

1½ teaspoons pink or sea salt

Water for kneading, if necessary

FILLING

1 cup (340 g) chopped guava paste

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

FROSTING

8 ounces (227 g) vegan cream cheese, at room temperature

1 cup (120 g) confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla essence, or 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

Pinch of pink or sea salt

Cook the squash in the water about 18 minutes, or until fork tender. Reserve ¼ cup (60 ml) of the cooking water. Cool for 15 minutes.
To make the dough, combine the flour, squash, sugar, yeast, margarine, and salt in a large bowl. If the dough is too dry, add a little room-temperature water until it comes together.
Knead the dough for 10 minutes in the bowl or on a floured surface, until dough is elastic. Cover the dough ball and allow to proof in a warm place for at least 35 minutes, until it has doubled in size.
To make the filling, melt the guava paste in a small saucepan with the reserved cooking water over medium heat, add the cinnamon, and set aside.
To make the frosting, combine the cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla essence in a medium bowl. Add the salt, stir to combine, and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet or dish with a silicone mat or parchment paper.
Turn the dough out onto a floured board and remove the air by punching it down. Roll the dough into an 8 × 12-inch (20 × 30 cm) rectangle.
Cover the surface of the dough evenly with the guava paste and cinnamon mixture. Starting with the shorter edge, roll the dough away from you to form a log. Pinch the edge of the dough to seal well.
Using a sharp knife, cut the log into 8 equal pieces (9 if using a square dish) and place them cut side up in the prepared pan. Bake 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350°F (180°C), and bake 11 minutes, or until golden brown.
Spread or drizzle the cream cheese frosting on the warm rolls while in the pan, and serve. Store leftover rolls in an airtight container.

Smoothies and Bowls

Green Smoothie

This is my go-to green smoothie because it has lots of weight-loss ingredients like maca, moringa, and chia seeds. If you cannot find purslane, just omit it.

SERVES 1

1 cup (240 ml) fresh coconut water

¼ cup (60 ml) water

¼ cup (35 g) crushed ice

½ small Gala apple, coarsely chopped

¼ cup (40 g) frozen blueberries

4 kale leaves

1 tablespoon chopped purslane, optional

1 tablespoon flaxseed

1 tablespoon Moringa Leaf Powder

1 teaspoon maca

1 teaspoon spirulina

1 teaspoon hemp seeds

1 teaspoon chia seeds

2 teaspoons agave nectar, or to taste

Place all the ingredients, except the agave nectar, in a blender and blend on high until smooth. Taste and add agave nectar to sweeten as desired.

Moringa Mint Shake

I drink this shake before I go hiking. It helps me get the endurance I need, and it is quite filling. Moringa has been touted as a high-energy superfood and the leaf powder and seed powder is available commercially. Roasted moringa seed powder is brown and has a coffee and hazelnut flavor.

SERVES 1

2 cups (480 ml) nondairy milk

½ cup (40 g) chopped fresh coconut

½ small apple, coarsely chopped

3 dates, pitted

1 tablespoon chia seeds

1 tablespoon moringa seed powder

1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon Moringa Leaf Powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch of pink or sea salt

Agave nectar to taste

Place all the ingredients, except the agave nectar, in a blender and blend on high until smooth. Taste and add agave nectar to sweeten as desired. Chill before serving.

Fruity Breakfast Bowl

Some people prefer a more solid morning meal than a smoothie—thus, the smoothie bowl. The liquid base, which is made from fruits or vegetables, is slightly thicker than a regular smoothie; it is eaten with a spoon and topped with fruits, nuts, and seeds. For the base, you’ll want a variety of frozen fruits and/or starchy vegetables. Chia seeds will create a more gelatinous mixture. Your toppings can be any combination of fresh or frozen fruit, edible flowers, nuts, seeds, and cereals.

SERVES 1

BASE

2 frozen bananas

½ cup (75 g) frozen strawberries

½ cup (120 ml) chilled coconut milk

5 spinach leaves

Pinch of pink or sea salt

TOPPINGS

½ banana, sliced

¼ cup (40 g) pomegranate seeds

10 blueberries

2 tablespoons freshly grated coconut

1 tablespoon chia seeds

1 teaspoon hemp seeds

To make the base, place the ingredients in a blender and blend on high until smooth but thick. If it’s too thick, add additional milk, 1 tablespoon at a time.
To serve, pour the base into a soup bowl, and sprinkle on the toppings.

Sweet Potato Smoothie Bowl

This smoothie bowl gives a high-energy start to the morning. It is a great bowl for people who want the satiety from porridge but something cooler and more refreshing. Once your base is set, you can make this bowl your own by adding the toppings of your dreams.

SERVES 1

BASE

1 cup (200 g) baked, mashed, and chilled sweet potato

¾ cup (180 ml) nondairy milk

2 dates, pitted

1 tablespoon maple syrup

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch of pink or sea salt

Pinch of ground nutmeg

TOPPINGS

¼ cup (30 g) Sunny Morning Granola

¼ cup (25 g) chopped pecans or walnuts

1 tablespoon hemp seeds

1 tablespoon chia seeds

1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses, for drizzling

Edible flowers, such as nasturtiums, borage, or pansies, for garnish

To make the base, place the ingredients in a blender and blend on high until smooth but thick.
To serve, pour the base into a soup bowl and sprinkle on the toppings, drizzle with molasses, and decorate with the edible flowers.

Papaya Chia Smoothie Bowl

Tuck into this high-vitamin start to the morning. Papaya is high in vitamin C and folate. You can use thawed frozen papaya as well if fresh is not in season.

SERVES 1

BASE

1½ cups (360 ml) nondairy milk

⅓ cup (50 g) chia seeds

1 tablespoon agave nectar

Pinch of pink or sea salt

TOPPINGS

¾ cup (175 g) cubed papaya

2 tablespoons freshly grated coconut

1 tablespoon Health Topper

To make the base, combine the ingredients in a soup bowl. Refrigerate overnight or at least of 1 hour.
To serve, sprinkle on the toppings.

Savory

Saint Lucian Bakes

My grandmother moved to Barbados from Saint Lucia in the 1950s and brought many traditions with her, including these bakes, which are a Caribbean version of English muffins. They’re similar to Barbadian Muffins but savory. Bakes can be used as bread, and you can stuff anything inside. Tasty fillings include vegan cheese, jam, sliced Holiday “Ham”, or simply margarine. They can be also enjoyed plain, with a cup of tea. On some islands, like Saint Martin in the French West Indies, bakes are sold as a street food called johnnycakes.

MAKES THREE 3-INCH (8 CM) BAKES

1¼ cups (160 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

⅓ cup (80 ml) ice-cold water

Canola oil

Sift the flour in a large bowl, then stir in the baking powder and salt. Slowly add the cold water, and bring the dough together with your hands. Form the dough into a ball and knead in the bowl for about 5 minutes, until it starts to get elastic. If the dough appears overly dry, add another tablespoon or two of water. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.
Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. Shape each into a ball, then flatten into a disk about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. To form the dough, continually fold the outer edges of the disk into the center as if you were going to make a hole in the center. Let the bakes relax for 15 minutes before frying; this will help them plump up and have a softer texture.
Heat about ¾ inch (2 cm) of oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. To test if the oil is hot enough to add the bakes, sprinkle a little flour in the oil; it is ready when there is a strong sizzle. Carefully add the bakes to the oil and cook for 45 seconds to form a crust on the outside, then lower the heat to medium-low and allow the bakes to cook slowly for 5 to 7 minutes, until browned on one side. Turn the bakes, and raise the heat to medium-high briefly, to form a crust. (For a softer crust, don’t increase the heat.) Fry for about 15 minutes total, turning about twice more. Cut into the center of one bake to ensure that the inside is well cooked.
Drain on paper towels and serve warm.

ISLAND TIPS

In the Caribbean, we call these quick breads “bakes” even though they aren’t baked. They may also be called johnnycakes or johnny bakes.

You can make a version of this recipe using whole wheat flour—just increase the amount of baking powder to 1½ teaspoons.

Ackee Scramble

This recipe will have you talking about Jamaican ackee for a long time. Ackee is a fruit related to the lychee and longan. It is native to West Africa and was first brought to Jamaica in the 1700s. Ackee and salt fish is the national dish of Jamaica, but since we are vegan, let’s forget the fish and add in other familiar flavors. Fresh ackee is not widely available outside the areas where it is grown, and unripe or improperly prepared ackee is poisonous. Since fresh ackee is not exported to the United States and Canada, look for canned ackee. Canned ackee is slightly inferior to fresh, but the laws in the US make it difficult to import fresh ackee, so canned is the best option. When you open a can of ackee, drain it and wash off the brine before using it. Serve this scramble alongside Saint Lucian Bakes or over white rice. Ackee is similar in color and texture to scrambled eggs.

SERVES 6

2 tablespoons vegan margarine

½ cup (100 g) chopped Holiday “Ham” or smoky vegan sausage

½ teaspoon liquid smoke

2 small tomatoes, chopped

½ onion, finely chopped

¼ red bell pepper, finely chopped

¼ green bell pepper, finely chopped

1 green onion, minced

¼ teaspoon finely chopped Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper

One 19-ounce (540 g) can Jamaican ackee, drained and gently rinsed

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried

¼ teaspoon pink or sea salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper

1 nori sheet, toasted and crumbled, optional

Heat the margarine in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the Holiday “Ham” and liquid smoke and cook for 2 minutes, or until slightly browned. Add the tomatoes, onion, bell peppers, green onion, and Scotch bonnet. Turn down the heat to medium-low and sauté for 4 minutes, or until the onions are translucent.
Turn the heat up to medium-high, add the ackee to the skillet, and gently stir it in. Cook, stirring gently from time to time, for 3 minutes, until a little sauce starts to develop in the skillet. Gently stir in the thyme, salt, black pepper, and optional nori. Turn the heat down to medium-low and cook for 4 minutes, stirring gently from time to time, until all the ingredients are cooked.

ISLAND TIP

Ackee is something you either really love or do not like. Out of ten testers who tried this, only one did not like it. The cost of a can of ackee is slightly steep, so this dish is something you would likely only do on special occasions. Because the ackee is canned, it is very fragile. Try to avoid beating it up too much when you scramble it; you want to present an attractive dish, whether to others or yourself.

Herbed Sada Roti

In Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana, and many other countries with a strong Indian influence, sada roti is served for breakfast with Eggplant Choka. If you compare the ingredients, you will see that, other than the herbs and garlic, this recipe has the almost the same ingredients as Saint Lucian Bakes. However, the end result is totally different. Sada roti is a flatbread that puffs up at the sides when cooked. Traditional sada roti is plain, without the herbs and garlic. You can leave them out if you like. If you do not have a tawa, you can use a large skillet or griddle to cook up your rotis.

MAKES 4 ROTIS

2 cups (250 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 cup (240 ml) water, or more as needed

2 teaspoons chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, and marjoram), optional

1 garlic clove, minced, optional

Canola oil or another neutral-flavored oil

Put the flour, baking powder, salt, water, and optional herbs and garlic in a bowl and stir until the dough comes together. Knead the dough in the bowl for about 4 minutes, until smooth. If the dough is too dry, add 1 or 2 teaspoons of water. If too wet, add 1 or 2 tablespoons of flour.
Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl in a warm, draft-free place, cover, and let rise for about 1½ hours, until it has risen slightly and has taken on softer texture.
Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces and form them into balls. At this stage, the dough should be very smooth. Return the balls to the oiled bowl, cover, and let rise for 2 hours.
Working on a lightly floured surface, roll the roti out to a thickness of ¼ inch (6 mm). Heat a tawa, griddle, or large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Lightly oil the tawa and place the first roti on the tawa. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, turning periodically, until both sides start to develop brown spots. The roti should be filled with air, especially at the edges. Oil the pan before cooking the next roti. Cut the roti into pieces and serve warm.

ISLAND TIPS

Sada roti dough can be left to rest for up to 5 hours in a warm place after dividing it into balls.

These rotis work well as an appetizer when served with Eggplant Choka for lunch or dinner.

Hearts of Palm and Tofu Scramble

Hearts of palm show up in recipes from the French West Indies and Spanish-speaking regions. They have a slightly acidic taste and are primarily available canned. The taste of the dish will be very different depending on which of the wet seasoning blends you use.

SERVES 4

10 ounces (285 g) firm tofu, cut into 1¼-inch (3 cm) cubes

1 tablespoon Bajan Seasoning, Jamaican Jerk Seasoning, or Trinidadian Green Seasoning, or more to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil or coconut oil

7 to 14 ounces (200 to 400 g) hearts of palm, sliced

1 onion, finely chopped

2 green onions, finely chopped

1 tomato, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos or soy sauce

1½ teaspoons chopped Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon Madras curry powder

1 teaspoon Angostura bitters

1 teaspoon vegan Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Pink or sea salt

Toss the tofu with the Bajan Seasoning or whatever wet seasoning you like.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the coated tofu and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, turning as needed to lightly brown all sides. Add the hearts of palm, onions, green onions, tomato, parsley, liquid aminos, Scotch bonnet, thyme, curry powder, bitters, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, and cumin. Turn the heat down to medium-low and sauté for 15 to 20 minutes, until all the vegetables are well cooked.
Season with salt to taste, and add more black pepper if you like. Serve warm.

Tofu Pockets

These pockets are portable, filling, and nutritious. I love to make this recipe before I fly because I know there won’t be any vegan options on the flight. I take some with me, leave the rest in the freezer, and heat them up on the day I come back home.

SERVES 6

TOFU POCKET PASTRY

1 cup (120 g) whole wheat flour

1 cup (125 g) unbleached flour

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 teaspoon sugar

¾ cups (170 g) ice-cold vegan margarine

¼ cup (60 ml) ice-cold water, plus more as needed

FILLING

2 tablespoons vegan margarine or olive oil

½ large onion, finely minced

1 bell pepper, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely minced

½ carrot, grated

3 to 4 mushrooms, chopped

1 shallot, minced finely

1 pound (454 g) tofu, frozen, pressed, and crumbled by hand (see Island Tip)

2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, such as parsley, thyme, or marjoram

2 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos

1 teaspoon Bajan Seasoning

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

Large pinch of curry powder

Pinch of black pepper

½ teaspoon black salt

¼ cup (60 ml) nondairy creamer

Sesame seeds, poppy seeds, or dried herbs such as oregano or basil, for garnish

To make the pastry, mix flours, salt, and sugar in a large bowl. Rub the margarine in with a pastry blender, fork, or your fingers until it resembles coarse bread crumbs. Slowly add the cold water and quickly form a dough ball. Wrap in parchment paper and set aside.
To make the filling, melt the margarine in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, carrot, mushrooms, and shallot, and sauté for about 7 minutes, until the onion becomes translucent.
Add the tofu, herbs, liquid aminos, Bajan Seasoning, turmeric, curry powder, and black pepper, and stir periodically for 5 minutes more, until the vegetables are slightly soft. Sprinkle in the salt, and stir to combine. Chill the mixture in the fridge until cool.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
To assemble the pockets, divide the pastry dough into 6 equal pieces. Working with one piece at a time, roll the dough into a 5-inch (12 cm) circle. Spoon one sixth of the filling onto half of the dough and fold the dough over the top, forming a half circle. Seal the edges of the dough by pressing them with the tines of a fork. Place the pocket on the prepared pan and repeat for the remaining dough and filling.
Bake for 25 minutes, or until the crust is brown. Brush with nondairy creamer and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat in the oven or microwave.

ISLAND TIP

To retexturize tofu, freeze the tofu block. Thaw thoroughly and squeeze the liquid out over a sieve. The tofu should have a spongy feel.

Salt Bread

Every island has its go-to bread for sandwiches. The Jamaicans have coco bread (which, as it happens, contains neither coconut nor cacao), the Trinidadians have hops bread, and Bajans have salt bread. I wish I could share all of the recipes for island rolls, but since I had to choose one, I went with the salt bread, since its recipe can be hard to come by. Salt bread recipes have always been a closely guarded secret in Barbados. The name salt bread doesn’t mean that this bread is particularly salty, just that it is savory bread. It has a soft, floury crust, and when you bite into it, you get a flour mustache and a pillowy-soft interior. Old-fashioned salt breads are made with white flour and a coconut palm leaf on top of each bread so that when the bread rises, it bursts, giving it a rustic appearance. You can create a similar appearance by slitting the top and sides with a knife.

MAKES 6 BREADS

One ¼-ounce package (2¼ teaspoons [7 g]) active dry yeast

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 cup (240 ml) warm water (110°F to 115°F/43°C to 46°C), or more as needed

4 cups (500 g) plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons pink or sea salt

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegan margarine, melted

Six 2-inch (5 cm) pieces coconut palm leaf, optional (see Island Tips)

Stir the yeast and sugar into the water and let stand for about 15 minutes, until the top is foamy. (If the yeast doesn’t foam, it’s dead or the water was too hot or too cool. You need to start over with fresh yeast.)

Put 4 cups (500 g) of the flour and salt in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the yeast mixture and the melted margarine and stir until the dough comes together.

Knead the dough in the bowl for 7 minutes, until it is very soft and slightly tacky.

Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl in a warm, draft-free place, cover, and let rise until doubled in size. This could take anywhere from 1½ hours in a tropical climate to 3 hours in a temperate climate or longer in a cold climate.

Grease a baking sheet. Punch down the dough and divide it into 6 pieces. The dough should be very smooth and easy to work with. Form each piece into a pear shape and place the pieces on the prepared baking sheet. Cut two slits into the top of the bread or place optional coconut palm leaf pieces at the top. Gently brush the bread with water. Put the baking sheet in a warm, draft-free place, cover, and let the dough rise for 1 to 2½ hours, until the formed breads have doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Re-brush the breads with some water and bake them for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool for 30 minutes and dust with the remaining flour before serving.

ISLAND TIPS

Brushing the bread with water is responsible for softening the crust at the end; this is a tip I received from a Barbadian baker.

When temperatures are cool, it can take a long time for the bread to rise. Here’s a way to create an ideal rising environment for any yeast dough: Turn on the oven for a few minutes and then turn it off. You will have created a perfect warm environment in which the bread can rise, simulating a warmer island climate.

Coconut palm leaves were used in the past to decorate the tops of the bread. They are rarely used now and only in old-time bakeries on the island, but they impart a special flavor to the baked bread.

Any sandwich made with salt bread is called a cutter. If you have cheese in your salt bread, it’s called a cheese cutter. Don’t try to speak too correctly when saying it: it’s pronounced “cuttah.”