6
Side Dishes

In the Caribbean, side dishes are quite varied. Common staples like rice, pasta, and potatoes are the norm, but we also make good use of local and traditional produce, which we call ground provisions—things like yams, breadfruit, and plantains. You can find most of the ground provisions in these recipes in ethnic markets. If you can’t find them locally, feel free to make substitutions. All of these side dishes are flavorful—so much so that some of them tend to upstage the main course!

Rice

Spinach Rice

This rice can be made with spinach, bok choy, or any green leafy vegetable that cooks up soft. In the Caribbean, we typically use either spinach or bok choy to make this dish. This goes well with Chickpea Curry.

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 cup (30 g) chopped fresh spinach

1½ cups (270 g) white basmati rice, rinsed

3 cups (720 ml) water

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for about 3 minutes, until translucent. Try to avoid burning the onion, as this would make the rice look dirty.
Stir in the spinach and turn the heat down to medium-low. Add the rice, then stir in the water and salt. Cover and simmer for about 25 minutes, until most of the water has been absorbed.
Turn the heat down as low as possible, fluff the rice with a fork, and cook uncovered for a few more minutes. The rice should be dry, not sticky, when it’s finished. Serve hot.

Rice

Pumpkin Rice

Pumpkin Rice is simple yet stellar. With just five ingredients, this side dish is as praiseworthy as it is delicious.

SERVES 4

1 cup (180 g) white basmati rice, rinsed under running water and drained

1¾ cups (420 ml) water

¼ teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons vegan margarine

1 cup (140 g) finely chopped calabaza squash or butternut squash

1 medium onion, cut in thin crescents

1½ teaspoons pink or sea salt

Cover and cook the rice with the water and table salt for 24 minutes, or until rice is tender. Turn off the heat and cover.
Melt the margarine in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the squash and cook for about 5 minutes, until it starts to become soft. Add the onion and cook for about 8 minutes, until the squash is tender. Season with the pink salt. Add the squash mixture to the rice in the pot and fluff with a fork. Serve hot.

Pigeon Pea Rice

Many people associate Caribbean food with rice and peas, and they are right. This classic Caribbean rice dish is made with a variety of peas or beans and served as a side dish. On many islands, people tend to use pigeon peas, also known as gungo peas. Note that dried and canned pigeon peas have slightly different flavors.

SERVES 6

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ onion, sliced into crescents

1 cup (170 g) fresh, frozen, or canned pigeon peas

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1½ teaspoons Bajan Seasoning

Bouquet garni (see Island Tip) made with a few sprigs each of thyme and marjoram, and 2 green onions

Pinch of mild paprika

Pinch of black pepper

3½ cups (840 ml) water

1 cup (210 g) white short-grain rice, rinsed

1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper

1 teaspoon adobo seasoning

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ to 1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

2 garlic cloves, pressed

Chopped green onions, optional

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, peas, sliced garlic, Bajan Seasoning, and bouquet garni and sauté for about 5 minutes, until the onions are tender. (This process is called “doving the peas.”) Add the paprika and black pepper, then stir in the water, rice, Scotch bonnet, adobo seasoning, onion powder, and salt. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until almost all the water has evaporated.
Add the pressed garlic and cook for about 5 minutes more, until all of the water has been absorbed. Discard the bouquet garni. Taste and adjust the salt if necessary. Garnish with optional green onions.

ISLAND TIP

For the bouquet garni, there is no need to bundle it in cheesecloth as you may be accustomed to doing. This bouquet garni has a dual purpose of flavoring the rice and decorating it with flecks of thyme.

Curried Rice

This rice dish is an excellent side dish, but it is even better with a partner in crime, such as Onion Gravy or Creole Sauce. The onion provides a nice sweet balance to the curry.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon Madras curry powder

½ onion, minced

1 cup (180 g) white basmati rice, rinsed

2 cups (480 ml) water

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon adobo seasoning

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the onion and sauté for about 5 minutes, until translucent. Stir in the rice and sauté for 3 minutes. Stir in the water, salt, turmeric, onion powder, adobo seasoning, and optional cayenne. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for about 23 minutes, until all of the water has been absorbed.
Turn the heat down as low as possible, fluff the rice with a fork, and cook, uncovered, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the rice has dried out a bit.

ISLAND TIP

Feel free to add fresh or frozen sweet peas, for color contrast and nutritional value. Just stir them in when you add the rice.

Brown Rice Quinoa Pilaf

This is a great workday dinner that is very easy to make and very flavorful. The spice blend is the heart of the dish and can be used for many other recipes. Tarragon perfumes the rice, while grated onion imparts a savory flavor.

SERVES 4

PILAF SPICE BLEND

1 cassia stick

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1½ teaspoons whole cloves

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon cardamom seeds

¼ teaspoon ground mace

RICE MIX

2 cups (390 g) hot brown rice, cooked according to package instructions

1 cup (185 g) hot cooked quinoa, cooked according to package instructions

1 onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or thyme leaves

To make the spice blend, place the cassia, peppercorns, cloves, caraway seeds, cardamom seeds, and mace in a mini blender. Blend until the spices are broken down. The spice blend will still be slightly coarse, which is fine. Store in an airtight container.
To make the pilaf, place the rice and quinoa in a large bowl and stir in the onion, carrot, and 1 heaping teaspoon of spice blend. Season with salt to taste, and add the tarragon, tossing to combine.
Cover the bowl and let the flavors permeate the rice mixture before serving.

Creole Rice

In the Caribbean, Creole rice usually means white basmati rice cooked with salt. It can also be a red-colored rice flavored with spices and a bit of peanut butter, as in this recipe. If your peanut butter is very thick, heat it in the microwave before adding it to the dish so it will mix in better. You can use dried Louisiana-style Creole seasoning in this recipe, as it is quite similar to the type used in the French West Indies. Sautéing the annatto seeds in the oil is an optional step, but it’s worth doing as it gives the rice a nice red color.

SERVES 4

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

¼ teaspoon annatto seeds, optional

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, pressed

1 carrot, finely chopped

½ celery stalk, minced

1 cup (180 g) white basmati rice, rinsed

2½ cups (600 ml) water

⅓ cup (80 ml) tomato sauce

1 tablespoon peanut butter

1 tablespoon Creole seasoning

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 teaspoon tomato paste

1 Scotch bonnet pepper

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. If using the annatto seeds, add them and cook for a few minutes, until the oil is infused with a red color, then spoon them out or strain the oil. Add the onion and garlic to the oil and sauté over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, until the onion is slightly translucent. Add the carrot, celery, and rice, turn the heat up to medium, and sauté for 5 minutes.
Stir in the water, tomato sauce, peanut butter, Creole seasoning, parsley, thyme, salt, and tomato paste. Gently stir in the Scotch bonnet, being very careful not to rupture it, as this would make the rice overly spicy. Turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook for about 20 minutes, until all of the liquid has been absorbed. If the rice still isn’t tender, add another ⅓ cup (80 ml) water and cook for about 5 more minutes, until rice is tender.
Turn the heat down as low as possible and fluff the rice with a fork, again being very careful not to rupture the pepper. Cook, uncovered, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the rice has dried out. Remove the Scotch bonnet before serving and serve hot.

ISLAND TIP

In this recipe, the hot pepper is used for flavor, not heat. The flavor from the Scotch bonnet is really good and this method of cooking with an entire pepper extracts flavor without so much heat. Just be sure to pay attention when fluffing the rice, as the prongs of the fork can rupture the pepper!

Spanish Rice

I first was introduced to this dish in my food and nutrition class at secondary school. It was the one rice dish most of the girls in that class actually made at home. I was a bit dubious about its authenticity because the Spanish rice my father made when I was a child was red with tomatoes and made with pieces of meat. When I went vegan, I thought I had to give up this dish, because the original version relied heavily on New Zealand cheddar cheese, but trusty tofu and herbs and spices did the trick. Because it includes tofu, it’s a balanced meal on its own. For even more protein, serve it alongside a bean stew.

SERVES 4

2½ cups (600 ml) water

1 cup (180 g) white basmati rice

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegan margarine

1 medium-large onion, chopped

½ green bell pepper, minced

2 tomatoes, chopped or thinly sliced

1 tablespoon Madras curry powder

7 ounces (200 g) medium or firm tofu

2 tablespoons unsweetened nondairy milk

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon American-style prepared mustard

Pink or sea salt

Black pepper

3 tablespoons fine bread crumbs

Combine the water and rice in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for about 15 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed.
Meanwhile, place an oven rack near the top of the oven and preheat the broiler (set to low, if your broiler has such a setting).
Melt 2 tablespoons of the margarine in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, tomatoes, and curry powder and sauté for 6 minutes, until the mixture starts to get saucy.
Put the tofu, nondairy milk, salt, turmeric, and cornstarch in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Stir the mixture into the sautéed vegetables along with the rice, ketchup, parsley, and mustard. Season with salt and pepper.
Grease an 8-inch (20 cm) square baking pan. Transfer the mixture into the prepared pan, dot the top with the remaining 1 teaspoon margarine, and sprinkle with the bread crumbs.
Broil the casserole for about 20 minutes, until the rice is cooked through and the top is lightly browned. Cool for 20 minutes before serving.

Coconut Rice

Coconut rice is a real crowd-pleaser. This rice dish is bold and colorful from the herbs and spices, and the coconut milk almost gives it a buttery flavor that will keep your guests going back for more. This method of cooking the rice in coconut milk, called an “oil down,” is similar to the method for Vegan Grenadian Oil Down. For an Ital meal, leave out the salt and pair this rice with Mixed Bean Stew.

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon coconut oil or canola oil

1 onion, minced

3 green onions, minced

6 garlic cloves, 4 whole and 2 pressed

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¾ teaspoon dried

2¼ cups (540 ml) coconut milk

1½ cups (270 g) white basmati rice

¼ cup (20 g) minced mild chile peppers, such as Hungarian wax peppers

1 to 2 tablespoons minced mixed herbs (such as marjoram, thyme, or basil), green onions, or a combination

1½ teaspoons pink or sea salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

½ teaspoon mild paprika

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

Heat the coconut oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, green onions, all the garlic, the celery, parsley, and thyme, and sauté for 5 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Stir in the coconut milk, rice, mild chiles, minced herbs, salt, black pepper, paprika, turmeric, and allspice. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for about 25 minutes, until all of the water has been absorbed.
Turn the heat down as low as possible, fluff the rice with a fork, and cook, uncovered, until the rice has dried out. Serve hot.

Pasta and Bread

Creole Spaghetti

If you need a quick and easy dish after work or school, this one-pot meal of spaghetti cooked in Caribbean-style sauce may fit the bill. There is no fixed recipe for making Creole spaghetti; the ingredients vary from island to island. In Saint Martin in the French West Indies, open-air food establishments sell Creole spaghetti. This recipe is similar to the version they make.

SERVES 4

7 ounces (200 g) spaghetti (see Island Tips)

½ cup (115 g) chopped chicken-style seitan or other meat substitute (see Island Tips)

1 tablespoon Bajan Seasoning or Trinidadian Green Seasoning

1½ teaspoons adobo seasoning

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 onion, minced

4 garlic cloves, pressed

1 red bell pepper, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

1 tablespoon minced mild chile peppers, such as Hungarian wax peppers, optional

1½ cups (360 ml) water

¼ cup (60 ml) ketchup (see Island Tips)

2 tablespoons vegan Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons Angostura bitters, optional

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon white pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

Pink or sea salt

Black pepper

Cook the spaghetti in a generous amount of boiling salted water until just tender.
While the spaghetti is cooking, season the seitan with the Bajan Seasoning and adobo seasoning. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, bell peppers, and optional mild chiles and sauté for 2½ minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Turn the heat down to medium-low, stir in the seitan, then stir in the water, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, optional bitters, onion powder, and white pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce has thickened and reduced slightly.
Drain the spaghetti and add to the sauce. Stir gently until well mixed, then add the parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

ISLAND TIPS

I recommend using whole wheat or multigrain spaghetti.

In place of the seitan, you could use hydrated TVP chunks or cubes of a commercial meat substitute.

If you don’t want a sweet pasta sauce, use tomato sauce instead of ketchup in this dish.

Feel free to add any vegetable you like to this dish. Most vegetables can be added along with the onions. You may need to increase the cooking time a bit so that the vegetables are tender to your liking.

Coconut Calabaza Mac and Cheese

Shown with Coconut “Bacon”

This is a West Indian spin on one of the world’s most famous foods: mac and cheese. Mac and cheese is described as simple, comforting, and addictive. For me, mac and cheese is al dente pasta covered with a creamy cheese sauce. Calabaza squash, with its vibrant color and sweet taste, stands in for the cheese, and creamy coconut milk enhances the sauce. This dish can be baked if you prefer a mac and cheese casserole.

SERVES 4

2½ cups (350 g) chopped calabaza, butternut, or other winter squash

7 ounces (200 g) uncooked elbow macaroni

2 tablespoons vegan margarine

1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup (240 ml) coconut milk

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (20 g) nutritional yeast flakes

1 tablespoon American-style prepared mustard

1 tablespoon ketchup, optional

1 tablespoon onion powder

2 teaspoons pink or sea salt

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon sriracha sauce, optional

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the squash on the baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, or until fork tender. Let stand until cool enough to handle.
Transfer the squash flesh to a blender. Blend on high until smooth, and set aside.
Cook the macaroni in a generous amount of boiling salted water until al dente, according to the package instructions. Drain and transfer to a large serving bowl.
Melt the margarine in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir well. Add the coconut milk and turmeric; stir to combine. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the squash puree.
Stir in the nutritional yeast, mustard, optional ketchup, the onion powder, salt, paprika, black pepper, cumin, and optional sriracha.
Pour the sauce over the cooked macaroni, toss to combine, and serve in bowls.

ISLAND TIPS

Top this with Coconut “Bacon” or crispy fried onions.

To make this into a casserole, place the mac and cheese into an 8-inch (20 cm) square baking dish and bake at 350°F (180°C) for 25 minutes.

Vegetable Chow Mein

After emancipation, many Chinese indentured servants in the Caribbean stayed on these islands. Many opened small village grocery shops, and often they made chow mein at home and sold it in their shops. West Indian cooks made the dish their own by using sauces with Caribbean flavors and, on some islands, using browning to color the sauce. This stir-fry does not taste like takeout, but like something extraordinary.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons canola oil

½ onion, sliced into thin crescents

3 garlic cloves, minced

½ bell pepper, any color, cut into thin strips or diced small

15 to 20 green beans, chopped

1 medium carrot, diced small

1 cup (227 g) chopped chicken-style seitan, tofu, or faux chicken strips (see Island Tip)

2 tablespoons soy sauce, or more to taste

1 tablespoon Bajan Seasoning, Jamaican Jerk Seasoning, or Trinidadian Green Seasoning

1 teaspoon Caribbean Caramel or browning, optional

One 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece ginger, cut into thin strips

½ cup (120 ml) water

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon American-style prepared mustard

½ teaspoon black pepper

½ teaspoon white pepper

½ teaspoon Madras curry powder

¼ teaspoon mild paprika

7 ounces (200 g) egg-free chow mein noodles

1 cup (30 g) thinly shredded spinach

2 small garlic cloves, pressed

1 teaspoon Bajan Pepper Sauce or Asian hot chili sauce

Pink or sea salt, optional

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, two thirds of the minced garlic, the bell pepper, green beans, and carrot. Turn the heat down to very low and sauté for 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the seitan in a saucepan and mix it with the soy sauce, Bajan Seasoning, and optional Caribbean Caramel. Stir in the remaining minced garlic, ginger, and water and place over low heat. Stir in the tomato paste, mustard, black pepper, white pepper, curry powder, and paprika and simmer for about 25 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to a fairly thick and slightly sticky sauce.
Cook the noodles in a generous amount of boiling salted water until just tender.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the vegetables. Add the spinach and cook gently for just a minute or two, until the spinach is wilted.
Drain the noodles well. Add them to the pan of vegetables and stir gently. Add the seitan with its sauce, along with the pressed garlic, and the Bajan Pepper Sauce. Season with more soy sauce to taste, then season with salt if you like. Serve hot.

ISLAND TIP

This can be made without any meat substitute. You can play around with adding peas or your favorite vegetables to make this dish even more unique.

Sweet Potato Pasta with Pumpkin Seed Pesto

Homemade pasta is well worth the time: 45 minutes of forming and hand rolling plus leaving it out to dry until the next day. Homemade pasta is not only for those who have time to spare but for anyone who wants to elevate this comfort food to a new level. There are three things you need: a bowl, a rolling pin, and a pizza cutter. You can cut the pasta dough into pappardelle, fettuccine, or linguine. Flaxseed, boiled and strained, stands in for the egg, and the optional tahini gives the pasta a more hearty depth. The pumpkin seed pesto complements this beautiful pasta, giving it a light, herby touch. The pasta can be cooked immediately after it has been cut, but I prefer to let it air dry overnight before using it. Fresh pasta cooks fast and absorbs sauce well. Note that you’ll need five clean hangers for hanging your pasta if you do not have a drying rack.

SERVES 8

SWEET POTATO PASTA

2 tablespoons flaxseeds

1 cup (240 ml) plus 3 tablespoons water

½ medium sweet potato, baked and peeled

¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil

¼ cup (15 g) mixed fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, marjoram, and rosemary)

1 tablespoon tahini, optional

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

3½ cups (440 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus up to 1½ cups (190 g) for rolling

PUMPKIN SEED PESTO

½ cup (60 ml) olive oil

¼ cup (15 g) mixed fresh herbs (such as thyme, parsley, and marjoram)

3 tablespoons pumpkin seeds

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper

To make the pasta, combine the flaxseed and ½ cup (120 ml) of the water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and let cook about 8 minutes, until the mixture becomes gelatinous. Strain out the flaxseeds, reserving the water.
Place the flaxseed water, potato, olive oil, mixed herbs, optional tahini, and the salt in a blender. Blend on high until smooth. The potato mixture should be smooth and light; if it is too dry, add 3 tablespoons of warm water and blend again.
Mix the flour and ½ cup (120 ml) of the water in a large bowl. Add the potato mixture, bring the dough together, and knead well. Alternatively, you can put the dough on a floured surface and knead. If the dough sticks to your hands, add in a bit of the rolling flour, and knead for 5 minutes. Divide the dough into 5 pieces and cover with a kitchen towel.
Generously flour a flat surface and, working with one piece of dough at time, roll out the dough until it is about 2 mm thick, frequently flouring the surface and rolling pin to prevent sticking. Using the pizza cutter, trim off the odd ends until you have a rectangular sheet. Quickly cut your pasta into thin strips (or wider ¾-inch [2 cm] strips if you are making pappardelle).
To dry the pasta, hang it on hangers and place them in an insect-free place for 24 hours. Do not dry in a cellar with high humidity. After 24 hours, the pasta should be dry and brittle. Store in paper bags or large ziplock bags and refrigerate.
To cook the pasta, bring 3 quarts (2.8 L) of water to a rolling boil in a stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the dried pasta and let cook until al dente, 4½ to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under running water. Serve with the pesto.
To make the pesto, place the oil, mixed herbs, pumpkin seeds, salt, and pepper in a blender and blend on high until the mixture is smooth. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

ISLAND TIPS

This pesto will solidify in the fridge. Let it sit on the counter for about ½ hour before using, to loosen it up.

Homemade dried pasta must be stored in the refrigerator to keep it fresh because it is not as evenly dried as commercial dried pasta.

Dal Puri Roti

Shown with Curried Potatoes and Pumpkin

Roti is a type of Indian flat bread, but on some of the islands, roti refers to a dish of curry wrapped in roti bread. In this book, I use the term roti in both ways. This roti bread, or skin, as we call it, can be used to envelop Sautéed Okra, Sautéed Spinach, Curried Potatoes and Pumpkin, Chickpea Curry, Curried TVP Stew, and other curry dishes. Making filled roti may seem daunting, but once you’ve made them a few times you’ll get the hang of it. Be sure to follow the step-by-step photos. Do not worry about making them perfectly circular; I never aim for perfect circles. Just have fun with the process. I will say that making great roti skins takes patience; do not try to make this when you are in a hurry. If roti is something you like and you want to make it often, invest in a tawa or at least a crepe pan or cast-iron skillet.

MAKES 6 ROTIS

FILLING

⅔ cup (130 g) dried yellow split peas, soaked overnight or quick-soaked (see Island Tip)

½ Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

4 garlic cloves, pressed

1 tablespoon ground cumin

¾ teaspoon pink or sea salt, or to taste

DOUGH

3½ cups (440 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1½ teaspoons pink or sea salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric, optional

3 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons vegan margarine

1 cup (240 ml) warm water

¼ cup (60 ml) canola oil, plus more for coating and cooking

To make the filling, drain and rinse the peas, then cook them in boiling water for 8 minutes, until semi-cooked. Drain thoroughly, then cool for 30 minutes. Dry the peas on a kitchen towel to remove any excess water.
Put the peas in a food processor, along with the Scotch bonnet, cilantro, garlic, cumin, and salt. Pulse until the mixture looks like fine couscous.
To make the dough, put the flour, baking powder, salt, and optional turmeric in a large bowl and stir to combine. Add the margarine and rub it into the flour with your fingertips or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs. Add the water and oil and mix with a fork to incorporate the liquid into the flour until the dough comes together.
Knead the dough in the bowl for about 7 minutes, until very smooth. Brush the dough with oil and place in a lightly oiled bowl in a warm, draft-free place, and let rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Oil a plate or small baking sheet. Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces. Working on a lightly floured surface, roll each piece out to a diameter of about 5 inches (13 cm), rolling the edges thinner and leaving the center thick, but not too thick, as the dough needs to be flexible enough to shape around the filling (see photos).
Hold a piece of dough in one hand to form a cup shape. Fill the cup with 2 to 3 heaping tablespoons of filling. Pinch the edges together to secure the filling, then form the dough into a clean ball. Flatten slightly and set aside on the oiled plate. Cover the filled roti balls and let them rest for 30 minutes.
Working on a lightly floured surface, roll each ball out until it is about 12 to 14 inches (30 to 36 cm) in diameter, taking into account the size of your pan. You want the rolled rotis to be just shy of the size of the cooking surface. The rolled roti skin should be thin, like a flour tortilla. If the dough bursts and exposes the filling during rolling, you can try to save the skin by folding it again and rerolling.
Put a griddle or tawa over medium heat and brush with a thin layer of oil. Place a skin on the griddle. Cook for 30 seconds, then turn and cook for 12 seconds on the other side, brushing the edges of the roti with oil as it cooks. Turn off the heat. You can leave the roti on the tawa for a few more seconds as the residual heat in the tawa will finish cooking the roti.
Layer the cooked rotis with waxed paper between them. Serve warm.

ISLAND TIPS

To quick-soak the split peas, add enough boiling water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm) and let them sit for about 20 minutes.

Note that the cooked skins freeze well and can be thawed in a matter of minutes. You can steam them or cook them on a griddle for a few seconds to reheat them.

Buss-Up-Shut Roti

You may know buss-up-shut by its Indian name: paratha. It is a plain roti that is cooked and then slapped, hit with sticks, or clapped by hand to give it a flaky texture. The term buss-up-shut comes out of Trinidadian dialect and means “busted-up shirt.” The name is fitting, as the process of slapping the roti after cooking gives it the appearance of a shredded shirt. As with Dal Puri Roti, in the final rolling you want to make these about the size of your cooking surface, so a larger griddle or tawa means a thinner roti. Serve these with Yellow Split Pea Dal or any curry you like.

MAKES 6 ROTIS

4 cups (500 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons vegetable oil, plus more for coating and cooking

1½ cups (360 ml) water, or more as needed

Mix the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and oil in a large bowl. Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and add the water. Bring the mixture together with your fingertips and knead in the bowl for about 7 minutes, until soft and elastic. You may need to add an extra tablespoon of water to get the dough to come together properly. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl in a warm, draft-free place, cover, and let rest for 1 to 2 hours.
Knead the dough for about 2 minutes, until smooth. Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces. Working on a lightly floured surface, roll each piece out to a diameter of at least 5 inches (13 cm). Cut the dough from the center to one side only, as if you are cutting a radius into the circle. Roll the dough from the cut center to form a cone. Using your index finger, push the tip of the cone into the dough. This will form a dough disk that looks like a cinnamon roll. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Put the dough disks back into the oiled bowl in a warm, draft-free place, cover, and let rest and rise for 45 minutes.
Working on a floured surface, roll each disk out to just about the size of the cooking surface. Heat a griddle or tawa over medium-high heat and brush with a thin layer of oil. Place a roti on the griddle and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, brushing the edges of the roti with oil. Turn and cook for 1 minute on the second side. Remove the cooked roti and, using two wooden spoons or a spatula, beat it for about 30 seconds, until the surface is ruptured and flaky. Serve warm.

West Indian Vegetables

Fried Plantains

A good ripe plantain is sweet and flavorful. Plantains sold in the United States usually come from Mexico, though if you are lucky you may find some from the Caribbean in ethnic markets. I am not saying that everything in the Caribbean tastes better, but I find the plantains from this region taste sweeter than the Mexican variety. Caribbean plantains have a bright yellow skin, like bananas, and the skin blackens as they become riper. The Mexican variety has a dark yellow color, and the darkening tends to be in spots, not lines. Everyone fries plantains differently. I tend to cut them lengthwise or sometimes in wedges. Plantains are best fried in a neutral-flavored oil such as canola.

SERVES 4

2 ripe plantains (see Island Tip)

¼ cup (60 ml) canola oil or another neutral-flavored oil

Peel the plantains and cut them into lengthwise slices. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, fry the plantains, turning them a time or two, for about 5 minutes, until golden brown or slightly darker. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.

ISLAND TIP

If you serve these with a spicy dish, it is better to use very sweet, ripe plantains to complement the spicy flavor. In the Caribbean, fried plantains are very popular for breakfast alongside scrambled eggs. Try pairing one or two slices of fried plantain with your tofu scramble.

Sautéed Spinach

This is my go-to easy recipe for sautéed spinach. This dish works well with dals or as a filling for the roti in Dal Puri Roti or Buss-Up-Shut Roti.

SERVES 4

¼ cup (60 g) vegan margarine

1 onion, minced

6 ounces (170 g) spinach, finely chopped

½ Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, minced

2 teaspoons white pepper

½ teaspoon Madras curry powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

½ cup (120 ml) water

Pink or sea salt

Black pepper

Heat the margarine in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and spinach and sauté for 4 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add the Scotch bonnet, white pepper, curry powder, cumin, garam masala, and water and cook for about 5 minutes, until the spinach is wilted and most of the water has evaporated. Season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve hot.

Sautéed Okra

This way of serving okra is different from the typical, more moist preparations that you may be accustomed to. This dish can be used as a filling for Dal Puri Roti or Buss-Up-Shut Roti, or as an accompaniment to rice.

SERVES 4

¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil

1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, minced

4 to 6 garlic cloves, minced

50 okra pods, sliced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Pink or sea salt

Black pepper

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the Scotch bonnet, garlic, and okra and sauté for about 5 minutes, until the okra browns. Stir in the cumin and season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn the heat down to medium-low and sauté for 3 minutes, until the okra is cooked through. Serve warm.

Mashed Green Bananas

Mashing green bananas in coconut milk results in a very flavorful dish that is almost cheesy—and addictive and filling. This dish is excellent topped with Creole Sauce or Onion Gravy, or served alongside Creole Red Bean Stew.

SERVES 4

10 green bananas

1 cup (240 ml) coconut milk

¼ to ½ onion, grated

1 garlic clove, pressed

1½ teaspoons adobo seasoning

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon black pepper

Pink or sea salt

Peel the bananas, then boil them in salted water for about 25 minutes, until tender when pricked with a fork. As they cook, their color should go from white to light brown or gray.
Drain the bananas and put them in a bowl. Add the coconut milk, onion, garlic, adobo seasoning, onion powder, and pepper. Mash the banana well, but it need not be completely smooth. The finished texture should be like a stiff, thick cake batter; you can leave in some chunks for more texture if you like. Taste and adjust the salt if necessary.

Steamed Plantains with Sauce Chien

Who said you have to fry plantains all the time? Sweet plantains are also good when boiled in the skin. If you carefully remove the skin after steaming, the plantain will still be intact. Prepared this way, they can be eaten with vegan margarine, Creole Sauce, or Onion Gravy, but I think Sauce Chien is tastiest.

SERVES 4

4 ripe plantains (see Island Tip)

2 teaspoons vegan margarine

1 cup (240 ml) Sauce Chien

Trim off the ends of the plantains, then steam them in their skins for about 25 minutes, until tender.
Cut an incision down the length of the plantains. Dot the margarine on the plantains, then drizzle the Sauce Chien into the incision. Serve warm in the skin.

ISLAND TIP

If you only have half-ripe plantains, it is better to peel them before steaming.

Spicy Baked Sweet Potato Chips

In the Caribbean, sweet potato chips or fries are usually made with white sweet potatoes. Because of their low moisture content, white sweet potatoes hold their shape well, and because they have a mild flavor, they take on the flavor of the seasoning nicely. For a real taste sensation, dip them in Pineapple Barbecue Sauce. In this recipe, the sweet potatoes are baked, so they’re lower in fat but still delicious. If you like, you can fry the potatoes instead, and then toss them with the spices.

SERVES 4

1 pound, 6 ounces (620 g) white-fleshed sweet potatoes

2 teaspoons onion powder

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 teaspoon Creole seasoning

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon black pepper

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon Madras curry powder

½ teaspoon chili powder

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon mild paprika

⅓ cup (80 ml) olive oil

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into long strips that resemble french fries. Pat the sweet potatoes dry.
Mix the onion powder, salt, Creole seasoning, cayenne, black pepper, thyme, curry powder, chili powder, cinnamon, and paprika together in a medium bowl. Add the olive oil and stir until well combined. Put the sweet potatoes in the bowl and toss with the seasoned oil.
Spread the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet (there is no need to separately grease the baking sheet). Bake for 25 minutes, turning twice during baking. The cooked fries should be tender when pricked with the tines of a fork.
Remove from the oven and serve immediately.

Curried Potatoes and Pumpkin

This sweet and spicy curry makes a perfect filling for the roti in Dal Puri Roti or Buss-Up-Shut Roti. If using this curry as a filling for roti (see photo), it should be hot when you are assembling your roti.

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH, OR 6 IF USED AS A ROTI FILLING

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons Colombo or Madras curry powder

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

1 onion, chopped

3 cups (720 ml) water

2½ cups (200 g) diced potatoes, cut into 1½-inch (4 cm) cubes

1½ cups (210 g) chopped calabaza, butternut, or other winter squash, cut into 1½-inch (4 cm) cubes

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt, or to taste

1½ teaspoons American-style prepared mustard

1½ teaspoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon mild paprika

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon Bajan Pepper Sauce, or ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 or 4 garlic cloves, pressed

Chopped fresh parsley, optional

Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the curry powder, cumin, and garam masala and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the onion and stir to coat with spice mixture. Turn the heat down to medium-low. Stir in the water, potatoes, squash, and salt and cook for 10 minutes.
Gently stir in the mustard, tomato paste, pepper, paprika, turmeric, and pepper sauce and cook for about 25 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Add the garlic and cook for 10 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to a slightly thick sauce. Garnish with optional parsley and serve hot.

Classic Barbadian Sweet Potato Pie

This sweet potato dish is traditionally served on Sundays or on special occasions. The topping is stunning: pineapple slices and cherries—you have to love that. Feel free to double or triple the recipe, but I prefer this pie in small quantities, served with a bit of Onion Gravy. Ordinarily, this pie is baked in a baking pan and then cut into squares for serving, but my version calls for making individual pies.

SERVES 2

1 pound, 6 ounces (620 g) white- or yellow-fleshed sweet potatoes, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons vegan margarine

½ cup (120 ml) pineapple juice

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or cassia

Pink or sea salt

2 pineapple slices

2 cherries

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

Cook the sweet potatoes in boiling salted water until tender.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease two 8-ounce (240 ml) ramekins.
Drain the sweet potatoes, add the margarine, pineapple juice, and cinnamon, and mash until smooth. Season with salt to taste.
Transfer to the prepared ramekins. Top each pie with a pineapple slice and a cherry and sprinkle with sugar. Broil for about 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Serve warm.

Breadfruit Cou-Cou

This creamy, buttery mash of breadfruit is usually served as part of a weekday lunch in Barbados. I suggest serving it topped with Creole Sauce, alongside Tofish.

SERVES 4

½ breadfruit and Island Tip

⅓ cup (75 g) vegan margarine

2 green onions, minced

½ teaspoon pink or sea salt, optional

⅛ teaspoon liquid smoke, optional

Cut the breadfruit half into quarters, peel it, and remove the heart. Chop the flesh into large chunks. Cook the breadfruit in boiling water for 20 to 25 minutes, until tender but still firm.
Drain the breadfruit, add the margarine, green onions, and optional salt and liquid smoke, and mash until smooth. This isn’t like mashing potatoes; it will feel as if you’re mashing glue or some type of dough. Grease a bowl, transfer the mixture to the bowl, and roll it around to form a ball. Make a well in the center of the cou-cou. You can ladle suitable sauces like Creole Sauce and Onion Gravy into the well.

ISLAND TIPS

Traditionally, this dish is cooked with a piece of salted pork, which is why I included liquid smoke in my version. You can leave it out if you prefer.

You can also make this dish using a 19-ounce (540 g) can of breadfruit. Just gently reheat the canned breadfruit to soften it before mashing. Because canned breadfruit is packed in brine, there’s no need to include the salt called for in the recipe.

Boil and Fry

SERVES 4

11 ounces (310 g) yam, cassava, or breadfruit, diced into 1½-inch (4 cm) cubes

1 green or half-ripe plantain

3 tablespoons olive oil or canola oil

½ onion, chopped

¾ cup (150 g) coarsely chopped tomato

¼ cup (15 g) minced mixed herbs (such as parsley, basil, thyme, or marjoram), green onions, or a combination

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 mild chile peppers, such as Hungarian wax peppers, minced, optional

Pink or sea salt and black pepper

Boil the yams in salted water until tender. (If using cassava, remember that it contains a toxic compound, so it’s important to cook it fully.)
Meanwhile, steam the plantain in its skin until tender; you can test it by piercing it with a fork.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion, tomato, mixed herbs, garlic, and optional mild chiles and sauté for 4 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Peel and slice the plantain, then add it to the skillet. Gently stir in the yams and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes, until well coated with the herbs and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Okra Slush

This is just what the name says: a slush of okra. As a side dish, it’s best with rice and a curry. It can also be served as a soup, in which case you could blend it if you like.

SERVES 4

4¼ cups (1 L) water

40 to 50 fresh okra pods, sliced into ½-inch (1.3 cm) rounds

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, pressed

1 tomato, chopped

1 small Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper

A few chunks of Holiday “Ham”, optional

1 heaping tablespoon Trinidadian Green Seasoning

1½ teaspoons pink or sea salt

¼ teaspoon celery salt

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

Lime wedges

Bring the water to a boil in a soup pot. Add the okra, onion, garlic, tomato, Scotch bonnet, optional Holiday “Ham,” green seasoning, salt, celery salt, and thyme. Cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat for 35 to 40 minutes stirring occasionally, until the okra is very soft.
Taste and add more salt if you like. Serve with wedges of lime, to squeeze over the dish.

Okra in Sofrito Sauce

In this side dish, okra is cooked in a sofrito-type sauce, characterized by onion, garlic, bell pepper, and tomato. This dish makes a nice accompaniment to a veggie burger, or serve it with hot white rice.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

24 okra pods, sliced ¼- to ½-inch (6 to 13 mm) thick (see Island Tips)

1 onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

5 tomatoes, chopped

½ cup (100 g) chopped Holiday “Ham” or smoky vegan sausage

¼ cup (40 g) chopped green bell pepper or mild green chile peppers

¼ Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, seeded and minced

½ teaspoon liquid smoke

1 cup (240 ml) water

Two 8-ounce (227 g) cans regular tomato sauce, preferably Spanish-style (see Island Tips)

2 tablespoons Bragg Liquid Aminos or soy sauce

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon white pepper

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the okra and sauté for 3 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove half of the okra and set aside. Add the onion, garlic, tomatoes, Holiday “Ham,” bell pepper, Scotch bonnet, and liquid smoke. Sauté for 2 minutes, then turn down the heat to low and sauté for 2 more minutes. Stir in the water, tomato sauce, liquid aminos, parsley, thyme, salt, white pepper, and the remaining okra. Cook for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt if necessary. Serve hot.

ISLAND TIPS

When selecting okra, make sure it’s firm, but you don’t want it too hard, or it will be tough and fibrous. Okra doesn’t have a long shelf life, so use it as soon as possible after purchase. Slicing the okra somewhat thick, as in this recipe, guarantees that it will still have some crunch once it’s cooked.

For this recipe to really pop, it’s best to use a Spanish-style tomato sauce. Goya is the brand I tend to use. Spanish-style tomato sauce is slightly more acidic than regular tomato sauce, and also contains different spices.

Vegan Grenadian Oil Down

This recipe is influenced by Grenada’s national dish, the oil down, which is root vegetables cooked in seasoned coconut milk with salted pork or meat until most of the coconut milk is absorbed in the vegetables, leaving a liquid that is mostly coconut oil. Oil down is a community food that is enjoyed with friends and family members and sometimes made outdoors. The vegetable of choice is cassava, but you can also use breadfruit. Traditional oil down is not vegan, as the dish is started off with salted pork, but you can approximate the flavor with some liquid smoke or a few pieces of Holiday “Ham.”

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon vegan margarine

½ onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 celery stalk, including leaves, chopped

½ cup (100 g) Holiday “Ham,” chopped, optional

1 tablespoon chopped mild chile peppers, such as Hungarian wax peppers

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried

12 ounces (340 g) cassava or breadfruit, diced into 2-inch (5 cm) cubes

2 cups (480 ml) coconut milk (see Island Tips)

2 cups (60 g) shredded spinach

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

Melt the margarine in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, celery, optional Holiday “Ham,” mild chiles, and thyme and sauté for 4 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and ham starts to brown a little. Stir in the cassava, coconut milk, spinach, salt, allspice, and turmeric. Cover partway and cook for 50 minutes, or until the cassava is tender and the oil has settled out. Pour the oil off if you like. Serve hot.

ISLAND TIPS

For a version that is lower in fat, you can use 1 cup (240 ml) of regular coconut milk and 1 cup (240 ml) of light.

This makes a nice accompaniment to Bajan “Beef” Stew.

Warm Green Banana and Squash Stir-Fry

This dish is a mixture of vegetables seasoned and cooked mildly. I chose green banana for this recipe because it holds its shape well after cooking. If you can’t find green bananas, you can substitute white or yellow sweet potatoes.

SERVES 4

5 green bananas

1 teaspoon pink or sea salt

1 butternut or other winter squash, cut into short, thin crescents

½ zucchini, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, coarsely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1 large green bell pepper, coarsely chopped

4 green onions, chopped, or 1 tablespoon Trinidadian Green Seasoning

½ cup (120 ml) water

1 large tomato, coarsely chopped

½ Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, minced, or ¼ teaspoon hot pepper flakes

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos or soy sauce

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Peel the bananas, then boil them in salted water for about 25 minutes, until just tender when pricked with a fork. Drain and slice into rounds 2 inches (5 cm) thick.
Meanwhile, sprinkle the salt over the squash and zucchini and let stand for 10 minutes. Lightly rinse the squash and zucchini and pat dry.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, bell pepper, and green onions and sauté for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are slightly tender. Add the squash and zucchini and sauté for 5 minutes. Gently stir in the cooked banana. Pour in ¼ cup (60 ml) of the water along the side of the pan, cover, and let the vegetables steam for about 15 minutes.
Gently stir in the tomato, Scotch bonnet, parsley, liquid aminos, black pepper, and cumin. Pour in the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) water along the side of the pan. Cover and cook for about 25 minutes, until all of the water has been absorbed and the squash is tender. Serve warm.