Cuetzalan
%233 / Pop 6000 / Elev 980m
The gorgeous drive to Cuetzalan is one of the most exhilarating trips in the region and an adventure in itself. Beyond the Zaragoza turnoff, the road becomes dramatic, snaking up hills and around hairpin bends and offering breathtaking views. At the end of it all is the remote, humid town of Cuetzalan (Place of the Quetzals). A striking village built on a precipitous slope, the town is famed for its vibrant festivals, weekend voladores perfomances, and Sunday tianguis (street market) that attracts scores of indigenous people in traditional dress. On the clearest days you can see all the way from the hilltops to the Gulf coast, 70km away, as the quetzal flies.
1Sights
Three structures rise above Cuetzalan’s skyline: the plaza’s freestanding clock tower, the Gothic spire of the Parroquia de San Francisco and, to the west, the tower of the French Gothic Santuario de Guadalupe, with its highly unusual decorative rows of los jarritos (clay vases).
Casa de la Cultura MuseumMUSEUM
(Alvarado 18; 
h9am-4pm) 
F
This small museum alongside the tourist office exhibits traditional daily dress of the region, arts and crafts, and some archaeological pieces from nearby Yohualichán. Fans of the voladores will find a rundown of the history of this and other dances and ceremonial performances.
Cascada Las Brisas & Cascada del SaltoWATERFALL
About 5km southeast of town, there’s a pair of lovely waterfalls. The natural swimming pools beneath the falls are enticing – bring your bathing kit. Rickshaw mototaxis will deposit you at the trailhead and await your return. From here it’s an easy 15-minute walk to the waterfalls.
zFestivals & Events
Feria del Café y del HuipilCULTURAL
(Plaza Celestino Gasca s/n; hOct)
For several lively days around October 4, Cuetzalan celebrates both its patron saint, St Francis of Assisi, and the start of the coffee harvest with the Festival of Coffee and Huipiles. It features hearty drinking, traditional quetzal dancing and airborne voladores (literally ‘fliers’), the Totonac ritual in which men, suspended by their ankles, whirl around a tall pole.
4Sleeping
Posada JaquelineGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map %233-331-03-54; Calle 2 de Abril 2; s/d M$200/250; 
W)
Jaqueline’s 20 basic but clean-enough rooms, overlooking the uphill side of the zócalo, are one of Cuetzalan’s best-value options with cable TV and 24-hour hot water. Some upstairs rooms share a balcony and have views over the town.
Posada Quinto PalermoHOTEL$$
(%233-331-04-52; Calle 2 de Abril 2; r M$750; W)
This basic hotel has the best location in town and a roof deck overlooking the palm trees and steeples of Cuetzalan’s gorgeous zócalo. The 15 rooms have almost comically bad color schemes and tacky art. Ask for a room facing the front of the hotel, which has windows onto the plaza. Rates are greatly reduced in low season. Parking (M$30) at a nearby lot can be arranged at check-in.
Tosepan KaliLODGE$$
(%233-331-09-25; www.tosepankali.com; Km 1.5 de la Carretera Cuetzalan, San Miguel Tzinacapan; dm/r/cabins per person incl breakfast M$250/350/450; 
pW
s) 
S
High on a hill between Cuetzalan and the nearby town of San Miguel Tzinacapan to the north, Tosepan Kali resembles a tree house nestled in dense foliage. With clean rooms constructed largely of bamboo and stone and a large pool with valley views, this beautiful, if rundown, ecohotel – its name means ‘our house’ in Náhuatl – is the work of a local indigenous cooperative who collect rainwater.
Hotel Posada CuetzalanHOTEL$$
(%233-331-01-54; www.posadacuetzalan.com; Zaragoza 12; s/d/tr/q M$655/913/1085/1220; pWs)
This handsome hotel, 100m uphill from the zócalo and a short walk from the bus station, has three large courtyards full of chirping birds, a swimming pool, a good restaurant featuring local fruit liqueurs and 36 simple rooms with tropical colors, tiled floors, lots of lightly stained wood and cable TV. There’s wi-fi in the front rooms near the office.
Hotel La Casa de la PiedraBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%233-331-00-30; www.lacasadepiedra.com; Carlos García 11; d/tw/ste from M$960/1580/1680; pWs)
All 16 rooms in this renovated-yet-rustic former coffee-processing warehouse have picture windows and refinished wooden floors. Upstairs, the two-level suites accommodate up to four people and offer views of the valley. Downstairs rooms have tiled bathrooms, stone walls and one or two beds.
5Eating
Regional specialties, sold at many roadside stands, include fruit wines and smoked meats. Look for xoco atol (fermented rice drink), yolixpan (coffee liquer) and dulce de tejocote (yellow hawthorn fruit in anise syrup). Try the regional café de la sierra while you can as climate change has decimated crops in recent decades.
Sazón JarochoSEAFOOD$
(%233-119-18-83; Zaragoza 13; comida corrida M$50, mains M$50-120; h9am-10pm Tue-Sun)
There’s something about Cuetzalan’s steamy, tropical ambience that demands mariscos. Thankfully, this straightforward seafood restaurant serves delicious seafood dishes, ranging from Veracruz-style fish to caracoles (sea snail), crab, octopus and shrimp, prepared however you like it. The house specialty, a coconut or pineapple stuffed with seafood, is excellent.
Restaurante YoloxóchitlMEXICAN$
(%233-331-03-35; Calle 2 de Abril No 1; mains M$50-75; W)
Beautifully decorated with plants, antiques and ancient jukeboxes, Yoloxóchitl has views over the cathedral and a selection of salads, antojitos (tortilla-based snacks) and meat dishes, as well as wild mushrooms pickled in chipotle chili.
La TerrazaSEAFOOD$$
(%233-331-04-16; Hidalgo 33; breakfasts M$58, mains M$58-162; h8:30am-9pm)
This family-run restaurant west of the zócalo, decorated with photos of the town’s annual festivities, is extremely popular with locals for its large selection (and servings) of breakfasts, mariscos (seafood), quesadillas, platillos de la región and crawfish (in season).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
YOHUALICHáN RUINS
This ceremonial pre-Hispanic site (M$40; h9am-5pm) inhabited by Los Totonacas has niche ‘pyramids’ similar to El Tajín’s (Veracruz) that are in varying states of ruin. The site is impressive and well worth a visit, not least for the great views from this side of the valley. It lies about 8km northeast of Cuetzalan, the last 2km along a steep cobblestone road. To get here, ask at the tourist office for a camión (truck) passing by the pyramids. The entrance is adjacent to Yohualichán’s church and town plaza.
3Entertainment
oLos VoladoresPERFORMING ARTS
(Parroquía de San Francisco de Asís, Plaza Celestino Gasca s/n; by donation; hfrom 4pm Sat, from noon Sun)
In the danza de los voladores (dance of the ‘flyers’), airborne performers whirl around a 30m pole, suspended by their ankles while playing flutes. On weekends voladores twirl outside the church at the zócalo, several times a day for tourists (and tips). It’s a remarkable, not-to-be-missed performance. This Mesoamerican ritual was recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by Unesco in 2009.
Four dancers represent the cardinal points and a fifth represents the sun. They spin 13 times, a number derived from 52 (the number of years in a pre-Hispanic century) divided by four ropes, to represent the dawn of a new sun. The ritual is estimated to have originated some time in the preclassic period (1000 BC to AD 250) in Veracruz. Performances are canceled during heavy rain or wind.
7Shopping
Mercado de Artesanías MatachiujARTS & CRAFTS
(Hidalgo 917; h9am-7pm Wed-Mon)
This fair-trade market a few blocks west of the zócalo has a range of quality weavings and other crafts that come with the benefit of meeting the producer, as many wares are made on-site by local artisans. Food stalls and tourist guides can also be found here.
8Information
The tourist office (Casa de la Cultura de Cuetzalan; %233-331-05-27; Av Miguel Alvarado 18; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun) inside the Casa de la Cultura, two blocks west of the zócalo, has much-needed town maps and accommodations information, but no English is spoken. Next door there’s a Santander ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Vía buses run between Puebla and Cuetzalan (M$210, 3½ hours, hourly) from Puebla 6:45am to 8pm, returning 5am to 6pm. It pays to check road conditions and buy your return bus tickets in advance during the rainy season. AU runs at least six buses a day, from 9am to 10pm, from Mexico City’s TAPO bus station (M$360, six hours), returning from Cuetzalan between 4:30am and 2:30pm. Additional services are offered by ADO Friday to Sunday.
8Getting Around
On the town’s steep streets, three-wheeled mototaxis (from M$25 or about M$100 an hour) offer rides with a thrill. Covered pickup trucks provide transportation to nearby pueblitos (M$8).
SOUTH OF MEXICO CITY
A host of great destinations sits south of the Mexican capital, including mystical Tepoztlán, breathtaking silver-mining tourist mecca Taxco and the superb complex of caves at Grutas de Cacahuamilpa. Cuernavaca, ‘the city of eternal spring,’ is a longtime popular escape from Mexico City and a home-away-from-home for many North Americans and chilangos (Mexico City inhabitants) who own second houses here.
The state of Morelos, which encompasses Cuernavaca and Tepoztlán, is one of Mexico’s smallest and most densely populated. Unfortunately, it suffered major damage in the earthquake of 19 September 2017 and many sights were forced to close (at least temporarily) for restoration work. Valleys at different elevations have a variety of microclimates, and many fruits, grains and vegetables have been cultivated here since pre-Hispanic times. You can visit palaces and haciendas in the region, along with 16th-century churches and monasteries. Those interested in the peasant revolutionary leader Emiliano Zapata should head to Cuautla, the first city that the Morelos hero conquered, and 6km further south to Anenecuilco, where he was born.
Tepoztlán
%739 / Pop 14,000 / Elev 1700m
A weekend trip from the capital to Tepoztlán rarely disappoints. This beautifully situated small town with a well-preserved historic center surrounded by soaring cliffs is just 80km south of Mexico City. As the birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, the omnipotent serpent god of the Aztecs over 1200 years ago (according to Mesoamerican legend), Tepoztlán is a major Náhuatl center and a mecca for New Agers who believe the area has a creative energy.
This pueblo mágico boasts a great crafts market and a host of charming restaurants and hotels. It also retains indigenous traditions, with some elders still speaking Náhuatl and younger generations learning it in school, making it a rarity among the towns ringing the Mexican capital.
1Sights
Everything in Tepoztlán is easily accessible on foot, except the impressive cliff-top Pirámide de Tepozteco, a 2.5km strenuous hike away.
oPirámide de TepoztecoARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(M$47, Sun free; h9am-5pm)
Tepoztlán’s main sight is this 10m-high pyramid perched atop a sheer cliff at the end of a very steep paved path that begins at the end of Avenida Tepozteco. Built in honor of Tepoztécatl, the Aztec god of harvest, fertility and pulque, the pyramid is more impressive for its location than actual size. At the top, depending on haze levels, the serenity and the panorama of the valley make the hike worthwhile.
Spotting the plentiful coati (raccoon-like animal) here is also a bonus.
Tepotzteco is some 400m above the town. Be warned that the path is tough, so head off early to beat the heat and wear decent shoes. The 2.5km walk is not recommended to anyone not physically fit. A store at the peak sells refreshments, but you should bring water with you anyway. Video-camera use is M$47. The hike itself is free, but to get close to the pyramid (and the view) you must pay the admission fee.
Ex-Convento Domínico de la NatividadCHRISTIAN SITE
This monastery, situated east of the zócalo, and the attached church were built by Dominican priests between 1560 and 1588. The plateresque church facade has Dominican seals interspersed with indigenous symbols, floral designs and various figures, including the sun, moon and stars, animals, angels and the Virgin Mary. Upstairs, various cells house a bookstore, galleries and a regional history museum.
The monastery’s arched entryway is adorned with an elaborate seed mural of pre-Hispanic history and symbolism. Every year during the first week of September, local artists sow a new mural from 60 varieties of seeds.
At the time of writing the monastery was closed for earthquake-damage assessment with only the south entrance on the ramp open for access to the grounds. Check ahead to ensure it has completely reopened.
Museo de Arte Prehispánico Carlos PellicerMUSEUM
(map Google map %739-395-10-98; Pablo González 2; M$15; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Behind the Dominican church, this archaeology museum has a small but interesting collection of pieces from around the country, donated by Tabascan poet Carlos Pellicer Cámara. The objects on display, a mix of human and animal figures, are lively and vibrant. The stone fragments depicting a pair of rabbits – the symbol for Ometochtli, the leader of the 400 rabbit gods of drunkenness – were discovered at the Tepozteco pyramid site.
CCourses
La Villa BonitaCOOKING
(map Google map %739-395-15-15; www.lavillabonita.com; Aniceto Villamar 150, Colonia Tierra Blanca; weekend course incl 2 nights accommodations US$450-925)
On a hillside above town, this cooking school is the project of Ana García, one of Mexico’s most celebrated chefs. García’s course earns rave reviews from students. The six guest rooms have French doors opening onto a gorgeous patio overlooking the Tepoztlán valley, with a swimming pool carved out of volcanic rock. Check the website for longer packages.
zFestivals & Events
Tepoztlán is a festive place, with many Christian feasts superimposed on pagan celebrations. With eight barrios (neighborhoods) and an equal number of patron saints, there always seems to be some excuse for fireworks.
Fiesta del TemploRELIGIOUS
(hSep 7)
On September 7 an all-night celebration goes off on Tepozteco hill near the pyramid, with copious consumption of pulque in honor of Tepoztécatl. The following day is the Fiesta del Templo, a Catholic celebration featuring theater performances in Náhuatl.
The holiday was first intended to coincide with – and perhaps supplant – the pagan festival, but the pulque drinkers get a jump on it by starting the night before.
CarnavalDANCE
During the five days preceding Ash Wednesday (46 days before Easter Sunday), Carnaval features the colorful dances of the Huehuenches and Chinelos with feather headdresses and beautifully embroidered costumes.
4Sleeping
Tepoztlán has a range of good accommodations options, but as a small town with lots of visitors, it can sometimes be hard to find a room during festivals and on weekends. If you can’t find a room, keep your eyes peeled for private homes offering weekend rooms, marked with hospedaje económico signs.
oPosada Nican Mo CalliHOTEL$$
(map Google map %739-395-31-52; www.hotelnican.com; Netzahualcóyotl 4A; d M$1400, ste M$1500-2200; pWs)
With brightly painted public areas, a heated pool, stylish rooms (some with balconies and great mountain views) and plenty of animals hanging around, Nican Mo Calli is just right for a romantic weekend away and one of the best options in town. Rates are discounted Sunday to Thursday.
Hotel Posada AliGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map %739-395-19-71; www.facebook.com/hotelposadaalitepoztlan; Netzahualcóyotl 2C; d from M$1150; pWs)
Ali has a mix of 20 comfortable rooms, from the small, darker and more affordable rooms on the lower floors to the larger rooms upstairs. There’s a frontón (jai alai) ball court and a small pool where you can have drinks served to you. The roof garden has lounge chairs for calming mountain views. Light sleepers may not like the nearby church bells ringing throughout the night.
Posada del ValleRESORT$$
(%739-395-05-21; www.posadadelvalle.com.mx; Camino a Mextitla 5; r from M$1650, spa packages M$4220-5220; ps)
East of town, this hotel-spa has quiet, romantic rooms and a good Argentine restaurant. Spa packages include accommodations for one or two nights, breakfast, massages and a visit to the temascal (steam bath). It’s 2km down Ave Revolución 1910 – just follow the signs for the final 100m to the hotel. Children under 16 not allowed.
oPosada del TepoztecoLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %739-395-00-10; www.posadadeltepozteco.com; Paraíso 3; ste M$3295-3660; p
iWs)
This refined hotel was built as a hillside mansion in the 1930s. The 20 rooms are airy and individually decorated, with most boasting magnificent views over town, and share a wonderful garden and pool. The guest book contains famous names, including Angelina Jolie, who stayed in Room 5 when she dropped by. Rates are discounted up to 40% during the week.
5Eating
This small town is hopping on weekends, when cafes and bars fill up with enthusiastic visitors. Unfortunately for those visiting midweek, many of the best spots are only open Friday to Sunday.
El TlecuilVEGAN$
(map Google map www.facebook.com/eltlecuiltepoztlan; Mercado Municpial de Tepotzlán s/n; snacks M$40; h9am-6pm; 
v)
The chaotic market hides a stall with vegan pre-Hispanic food. Mainly this means croquette taste bombs wrapped up as tacos or with rice and mole sauce. Flavor highlights include siete semillas (mixed sunflower, pepita and other seeds) and an inventive apple hash.
El BrujoBAKERY$
(map Google map Av 5 de Mayo; breakfasts M$60-95; h9am-9pm; v)
This wonderful bakery-restaurant on the town’s main drag is the best bet for a full breakfast, with excellent omelettes and Mexican standards such as chilaquiles (strips of fried corn tortillas bathed in sauce). It also has great coffee and fantastic desserts. Just looking at the cake display is likely to start you salivating.
Los Buenos TiemposBAKERY$
(map Google map %739-395-05-19; Av Revolución 1910 No 14B; pastries M$8-35; h8:30am-10:30pm; Wv)
Head here for the best pastries around – the smell drifting over the zócalo alone will probably bring you in on autopilot. There’s also good coffee and a lively social scene, and it’s a great place to buy a pastry breakfast to take up to the pyramid with you.
Los ColorinesMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %739-395-08-90; www.facebook.com/loscolorinesoficial; Av Tepozteco 13; mains M$75-165; h9am-9pm; v
c)
Inside the pink exterior of this buzzing restaurant, the hearty traditional Mexican fare bubbles away in cazuelas (clay pots) – try the regional chiles rellenos or huauzontle (broccoli-like flower buds). More than the food, eating here is a joy for the piñatas, terrace views, spaciousness and the sense of being at a fiesta at grandma’s colorful ranch. Cash only.
El Mango Biergarten-RestauranteGERMAN$$
(map Google map %739-395-22-53; www.elmangotepoztlan.com; Campesinos 7; mains M$70-165; h2-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Sun; W)
Craving goulash, spaetzle, bratwurst and hearty, freshly baked bread? This German-run beer garden, just down the hill from the zócalo, serves genuine German food on weekends. To wash it down, Mango’s beer list includes both imported European beers and domestic artisanal cerveza. There’s live jazz and blues; see the event calendar on the website.
La Sombra del SabinoCAFE$$
(map Google map %739-395-03-69; www.lasombradelsabino.com.mx; Av Revolución 1910 No 45; mains M$150-165; h10am-7pm Wed-Sun; W)
This ‘literary cafe’ and bookstore serves coffee, tea, wine or beer and simple fare – pastries, sandwiches and salads – in a contemplative garden setting. La Sombra del Sabino also hosts readings and events and sells a small selection of English-language books.
La Luna MextliINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map %739-395-11-14; www.facebook.com/lalunamextli; Av Revolución 1910 No 16; mains M$85-220; hnoon-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun)
La Luna Mextli has its own in-house gallery stuffed with local art. The food is also excellent, from the Mexican standards to an entire list of Argentine steaks and parrillada (mixed grill).
oLa SibaritaMEXICAN$$$
(map Google map %777-101-16-00; www.posadadeltepozteco.com.mx; Posada del Tepozteco, Paraíso 3; mains M$200-300; h8:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; pW)
High on a hill above town, the restaurant at Posada del Tepozteco has gorgeous views of the valley below. With surreal cliffs and a pyramid overhead, the restaurant’s setting is striking. The menu features dishes such as chicken breast stuffed with goat’s cheese, róbalo (snook) carpaccio in vinaigrette and rose-petal nieve (sorbet), all paired with imported wines.
oEl CirueloMEXICAN$$$
(map Google map %777-219-37-20; www.elciruelo.com.mx; Zaragoza 17; mains M$193-369; h1-6:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; c)
Set in a courtyard with impressive views of the cliffs and pyramid, this long-standing favorite serves an upscale menu of dishes from pechuga con plátano macho (chicken with plantain in mole) and salmón chileno a la mantequilla (Chilean salmon in butter sauce) to good salads and Mexican soups, though prices are inflated for the scenery. On Saturday and Sunday there are play areas for kids.
6Drinking & Nightlife
La Terraza YecapixtlaROOFTOP BAR
(map Google map %735-172-85-85; Av Tepozteco; h9am-11pm; W)
7Shopping
Tepoz has a fantastic daily market that convenes on the zócalo. It’s at its fullest on Wednesday and Sunday. As well as the daily fruit, vegetable, clothing and crafts on sale, on Saturday and Sunday stalls around the zócalo sell a wide selection of handicrafts.
8Getting There & Away
Don’t confuse Tepoztlán (in Morelos) with Tepotzotlán to the north of Mexico City.
ADO/OCC (www.ado.com.mx; Av 5 de Mayo 35) runs 1st-class buses mainly to/from Mexico City’s Terminal Sur (M$126, one hour, every 20 to 30 minutes, 5am to 8pm), but also to Terminal Norte (M$130, 2¼ hours, two daily), direct to/from Mexico City’s airport ($184, 1½ hours, four daily), and to Cuautla (M$24, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes). ADO/OCC buses in Tepotzlán arrive at the ADO terminal ‘Terminal Tepoztlán-Gasolinera’ beside a gas station, from where a white micro (M$8, five minutes, frequent) can take you the 1.5km to the zócalo.
Ometochtli runs direct buses to Cuernavaca (M$24, 40 minutes, every 20 minutes 6am to 9pm). They leave from opposite the Auditorio (with its mosaic mural of chinelos); buy tickets from sellers at the blue-and-white umbrella before boarding. Do not take the indirect route, only the safer buses that say ‘directo’ on their front. Buses drop you off in Cuernavaca at La Fuente, a church at Calle Chamilpa 1B, from where it is a pleasant walk south to the zócalo. A secure taxi to Cuernavaca is about M$230.
Cuautla
%735 / Pop 154,360 / Elev 1300m
Cuautla (kwout-la) has none of Tepoztlán’s scenic beauty, or the architectural merit of Cuernavaca, but it does have sulfur springs that have attracted people for centuries, as well as serious revolutionary credentials.
Cuautla was a base for one of Mexico’s first leaders in the independence struggle, José María Morelos y Pavón, until he was forced to leave when the royalist army besieged the town in 1812. A century later it became a center of support for Emiliano Zapata’s revolutionary army. However, if Mexican history and balnearios (bathing places) aren’t your thing, there’s not much for you here – modern Cuautla is a perfectly pleasant town, but there’s little to see and do aside from the above.
DON’T MISS
CUAUTLA’S BALNEARIOS
Cuautla’s best-known balneario (thermal bath) is the riverside Agua Hedionda (Stinky Water; %735-352-00-44; http://balnearioaguahedionda.com; end of Av Progreso, cnr Emiliano Zapata; adult/child Mon-Fri M$50/30, Sat & Sun M$75/40, before 9am Mon-Fri M$25; h6:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; c). Waterfalls replenish two lake-sized pools with sulfur-scented tepid water. Take an ‘Agua Hedionda’ bus (M$7) from Plazuela Revolución del Sur. There’s a two-for-one deal on Thursday. Check the website for any warnings about closures before making the trip as Agua Hedionda was closed because of earthquake damage at the time of writing.
Other balnearios worth visiting include El Almeal (Hernández; adult/child M$80/50; h9am-6pm) and Los Limones (Gabriel Teppa 14; adult M$65-75, child M$50; h8:30am-6pm). Both are served by the same spring (no sulfur) and have extensive shaded picnic grounds. Prices are reduced Monday to Friday. Children under three go free. Check Balnearios Morelos (www.balneariosenmorelos.com.mx) for a full list of thermal baths in the area.
1Sights
The two main plazas are Plaza Fuerte de Galeana, better known as the Alameda (a favorite haunt of mariachis-for-hire at weekends), and the zócalo.
Ex-Convento de San DiegoHISTORIC BUILDING
(Batalla 19 de Febrero s/n)
In 1911 presidential candidate Francisco Madero embraced Emiliano Zapata at Cuautla’s old train station in the Ex-Convento de San Diego. Steam enthusiasts will want to come on Saturday, when Mexico’s only steam-powered train fires up for short rides from 4pm to 9pm. The Ex-Convento is now home to Cuautla’s tourist office (%735-352-52-21; h9am-8pm).
Museo Histórico del OrienteMUSEUM
(%735-352-83-31; Callejón del Castigo 3; M$39, Sun free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
The former residence of José María Morelos houses the Museo Histórico del Oriente. Each room here covers a different historical period with displays of pre-Hispanic pottery, good maps and early photos of Cuautla and Zapata. The Mexican War of Independence rebel leader’s remains lie beneath the imposing Zapata monument in the middle of Plazuela Revolución del Sur.
¡QUE VIVA ZAPATA!
A peasant leader from Morelos state, Emiliano Zapata (1879–1919) was among the most radical of Mexico’s revolutionaries, fighting for the return of hacienda land to the peasants with the cry ‘¡Tierra y libertad!’ (Land and freedom!). The Zapatista movement was at odds with both the conservative supporters of the old regime and their liberal opponents. In November 1911 Zapata disseminated his Plan de Ayala, calling for restoration of all land to the peasants. After winning numerous battles against government troops in central Mexico (some in association with Pancho Villa), he was ambushed and killed in 1919.
Ruta de Zapata
In Anenecuilco, 6km south of Cuautla, what’s left of the adobe cottage where Zapata was born (on August 8, 1879) is now the Museo de la Lucha para la Tierra (Museo y Casa de Emiliano Zapata; %735-308-89-01; Ayuntamiento 33, cnr Av Zapata; M$35; h10am-5pm), with a rousing mural of Zapata’s life story.
About 20km south is the Ex-Hacienda de San Juan Chinameca (%735-170-00-83; Cárdenas s/n; M$30, Sun free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), in the town of the same name, where in 1919 Zapata was lured into a fatal trap by Colonel Jesús Guajardo, following the orders of President Carranza, who was eager to dispose of the rebel leader and consolidate the post-revolutionary government. Pretending to defect to the revolutionary forces, Guajardo set up a meeting with Zapata, who arrived at Chinameca accompanied by a guerrilla escort. Guajardo’s men shot the general before he crossed the abandoned hacienda’s threshold.
The hacienda has a small and, unfortunately, horribly maintained museum with a meager collection of photos and newspaper reproductions. But there’s a statue of Zapata astride a rearing horse at the entrance, where you can still see the bullet holes where the revolutionary died and where old men gather to celebrate their fallen hero.
From Chinameca head 20km northwest to Tlaltizapán, the site of the excellent Cuartel General de Zapata (Museo de la Revolución del Sur; %734-341-51-26; Guerrero 2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) F, the main barracks of the revolutionary forces. Here you can see Zapata’s rifle (the trigger retains his fingerprints), the bed where he slept and the outfit he was wearing at the time of his death (riddled with bullet holes and stained with blood).
Though it’s possible to do this route via colectivo (yellow ‘Chinameca’ combis traveling to Anenecuilco and Chinameca leave from the corner of Garduño and Matamoros in Cuautla every 10 minutes), it can be an all-day ordeal. The Morelos state tourist office in Cuernavaca arranges tours of the route.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Defensa del AguaHOTEL$
(%735-352-16-79; Defensa del Agua 34; d M$340-440, tr M$410-515, q M$475-590; pWs)
This modern, clean hotel is set out in a motel style with a small pool and spacious rooms with TV, phone and fan. There’s a very handy Italian Coffee Company branch in the building for breakfast. Avoid rooms with windows facing the noisy street.
Hotel & Spa VillasorRESORT$$
(%735-303-55-03; www.hotelvillasor.com.mx; Av Progreso; s/d/ste M$540/700/1150; p
aWs)
Out of town and opposite the Agua Hedionda baths, this modern place has a large pool and comfortable rooms equipped with cable TV. With its own spa treatments, Villasor is the best option for relaxation, but it’s not convenient for those without transportation.
Así Es Mi TierraMEXICAN$
(%735-398-47-54; Reforma 113; mains M$90-240; h1-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat, 8am-10pm Sun; c)
Housed in a bright, airy kiosk resembling an ample circus tent, Tierra makes a grand show of steaks, grills and Mexican dishes such as chiles en nogada (green chilies stuffed with picadillo, covered with a creamy walnut sauce and sprinkled with red pomegranate seeds) and chunky chicken tacos with all the trimmings of salad, rice and guacamole. The Saturday and Sunday brunch buffets are popular with groups and families.
Las GolondrinasMEXICAN$$
(%735-354-13-50; www.restaurantelasgolondrinas.com; Catalán 19A; mains M$85-190; h8am-10pm)
Set in a 17th-century building filled with plants and koi ponds, Golondrinas offers an attractive atmosphere and excellent service. House specialties include a range of molcajetes (spicy stews cooked in a large stone mortar). Breakfasts include egg-white omelettes.
8Getting There & Away
OCC (%800-702-80-00; www.ado.com.mx; Calle 2 de Mayo 97) has 1st-class buses to Mexico City’s Terminal Sur (M$140, two hours, every 15 to 30 minutes) and Tepoztlán (M$24, 50 minutes, every 15 to 40 minutes).
Cuernavaca
%777 / Pop 339,000 / Elev 1480m
There’s always been a formidable glamour surrounding Cuernavaca (kwehr-nah-vah-kah), the capital of Morelos state. With its vast, gated haciendas and sprawling estates, it has traditionally attracted high-society visitors year-round for its warmth, clean air and attractive architecture. Today this tradition continues, even though urban sprawl has put a decisive end to the clean air and you’re more likely to see vacationing North Americans and college students studying Spanish on monthlong courses than meet international royalty or great artists in the street.
Cuernavaca is an easygoing weekend escape from Mexico City for its strollable town center, touches of fine dining, artworks by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, and as a launchpad for the well-maintained ruins of nearby Xochicalco.
Cuernavaca
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
History
The first settlers to the valleys of modern Morelos are believed to have arrived in 1500 BC. In the centuries between AD 200 and 900 they organized a highly productive agricultural society and developed Xochicalco and other large constructions throughout the region. Later, the dominant Mexica (Aztecs) called them Tlahuica, which means ‘people who work the land.’ In 1379 a Mexica warlord conquered Cuauhnáhuac, subdued the Tlahuica and exacted an annual tribute that included 16,000 pieces of amate (bark paper) and 20,000 bushels of corn. The tributes payable by the subject states were set out in a register the Spanish later called the Códice Mendocino, in which Cuauhnáhuac was represented by a three-branch tree. This symbol now graces Cuernavaca’s coat of arms.
The Mexica lord’s successor married the daughter of the Cuauhnáhuac leader, and from this marriage was born Moctezuma I Ilhuicamina, the 15th-century Aztec king, who was a predecessor to Moctezuma II Xocoyotzin, encountered by Cortés. Under the Aztecs, the Tlahuica traded and prospered. Their city was a learning and religious center, and archaeological remains suggest they had a considerable knowledge of astronomy.
When the Spanish arrived the Tlahuica were fiercely loyal to the Aztecs. In April 1521 they were finally overcome and Cortés torched the city. Soon the city became known as Cuernavaca, a more Spanish-friendly version of its original appellation.
In 1529 Cortés received his belated reward from the Spanish crown when he was named Marqués del Valle de Oaxaca, with an estate that covered 22 towns, including Cuernavaca, and 23,000 indigenous Mexicans. After he introduced sugarcane and new farming methods, Cuernavaca became a Spanish agricultural center, as it had been for the Aztecs. Cortés’ descendants dominated the area for nearly 300 years.
With its salubrious climate, rural surroundings and colonial elite, Cuernavaca became a refuge for the rich and powerful in the 1700s and 1800s, including José de la Borda, the 18th-century Taxco silver magnate. Borda’s lavish home was later a retreat for Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota. Cuernavaca has also attracted many artists and achieved literary fame as the setting for Malcolm Lowry’s 1947 novel Under the Volcano.
1Sights
oMuseo Robert BradyMUSEUM
(%777-318-85-54; Netzahualcóyotl 4; M$45; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Let’s face it, who wouldn’t want to be independently wealthy and spend their life traveling around the world collecting art for their lavish Mexican mansion? If that option isn’t open to you, visit this museum – easily one of Cuernavaca’s best – and live vicariously. The one-time home of American artist and collector Robert Brady (1928–86), the museum, which is housed in the Casa de la Torre, is a wonderful place to spend time appreciating the exquisite taste of one person.
Originally part of the monastery within the Recinto de la Catedral, the house is a stunning testament to a man who knew what he liked. Brady lived in Cuernavaca for 24 years after a spell in Venice, and never married or had children. His collections range from Papua New Guinea and India to Haiti and South America.
Every room, including the two gorgeous bathrooms and kitchen, is bedecked in paintings, carvings, textiles, antiques and folk arts from all corners of the Earth. Among the treasures are works by well-known Mexican artists, including Rivera, Tamayo, Kahlo and Covarrubias, as well as Brady’s own paintings (check out his spot-on portrait of his friend Peggy Guggenheim). There is a bedroom dedicated to his friend Josephine Baker, the French-American actor and black civil-rights activist. The gardens are lovely too, with a very tempting (but off-limits) swimming pool in one of them and a little cafe in the other.
Classic and contemporary films are shown in the museum’s courtyard every Wednesday at 4pm and 6pm for a M$30 donation. Movies are in their original language with Spanish subtitles.
Guided tours (10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday) are available by appointment for groups up to 20 people for M$300.
MMAPOMUSEUM
(map Google map Museo Morelense de Arte Popular; %777-318-62-00; Hidalgo 239; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) F
An excellent addition to Cuernavaca, this bright and inviting museum showcases handicrafts from Morelos, including life-size chinelos (costumed dancers with upturned chins from Morelos). Most of the pieces are displayed out in the open, not behind glass, so you can get close and admire the handiwork. The attached store sells quality pieces that you won’t see in your average craft market.
Catedral de CuernavacaCHURCH
(map Google map www.catedraldecuernavaca.org; Hidalgo 17; h7:30am-8pm) F
Cuernavaca’s cathedral stands in a large high-walled recinto (compound). It was built in a grand, fortress-like style in an effort to impress, intimidate and defend against the natives. Franciscans started work on what was one of Mexico’s earliest Christian missions in 1526, using indigenous labor and stones from the rubble of Cuauhnáhuac. The first structure was the Capilla Abierta de San José, an open chapel on the cathedral’s west side. The compound entrance is on Hidalgo.
The cathedral itself, the Templo de la Asunción de María, is plain and solid, with an unembellished facade. The side door, which faces north to the compound entrance, shows a mixture of indigenous and European features – the skull and crossbones above it is a symbol of the Franciscan order. Inside are frescoes rediscovered early in the 20th century. Cuernavaca was a center for Franciscan missionary activities in Asia and the frescoes – said to show the persecution of Christian missionaries in Japan – were supposedly painted in the 17th century by a Japanese convert to Christianity.
The cathedral compound also holds two smaller churches. On the right as you enter is the Templo de la Tercera Orden de San Francisco. Its exterior was carved in 18th-century baroque style by indigenous artisans and its interior has ornate, gilded decorations. On the left as you enter is the 19th-century Capilla del Carmen, where believers seek cures for illness.
The cathedral was damaged by the earthquake of September 19, 2017. At the time of writing it was scheduled to remain closed for some time. Check ahead of your visit to ensure that is has reopened.
Palacio de CortésHISTORIC BUILDING
(%777-312-81-71; M$55, Sun free; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Cortés’ imposing medieval-style fortress stands opposite the southeast end of the Plaza de Armas. This two-story stone palace was built in 1535 on the base of the city pyramid that Cortés destroyed after taking Cuauhnáhuac. The base is still visible from various points on the ground floor. The palace houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac (map Google map Leyva 100; M$55, Sun free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, last entry 5:30pm), which has two floors of exhibits highlighting Mexican cultures and history. On the upstairs balcony is a fascinating mural by Diego Rivera, Historia del Estado de Morelos.
The mural was commissioned in the mid-1920s by Dwight Morrow, the US ambassador to Mexico. Flowing from right to left, scenes from the conquest through to the 1910 Revolution emphasize the cruelty, oppression and violence that have characterized Mexican history.
While upstairs covers events from the Spanish conquest to the present, the ground floor focuses on pre-Hispanic cultures, including the Tlahuica and their relationship with the Aztec empire. Most labeling is in Spanish only, with a few well-translated exceptions.
Cortés resided here until he turned tail for Spain in 1541. The palace remained with Cortés’ family for most of the next century, but by the 18th century it was being used as a prison. During the Porfirio Díaz era it became government offices.
On September 19, 2017, a powerful earthquake rocked the region and damaged the building’s clock, which has since been removed. At the time of writing the Palacio was to remain closed to the public for at least a year, for damage assessment and reparations. Check ahead to ensure that it is open again, or simply enjoy the building’s facade.
Jardín JuárezGARDENS
(map Google map Guerrero) F
Adjoining the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the Jardín Juárez, where the central gazebo (designed by tower specialist Gustave Eiffel) houses juice and sandwich stands. Live-band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings start at 6pm. Roving vendors sell balloons, ice cream and corn on the cob under the trees, which fill up with legions of cacophonous grackles at dusk.
Even more entertaining are the guitar trios who warm up their voices and instruments before heading to the cafes across the street to serenade willing patrons. You can request a ballad or two for around M$80.
Papalote Museo del NiñoMUSEUM
(www.papalotecuernavaca.org.mx; Av Vicente Guerrero 205; adult/child under 15yr M$50/60, group of 4 M$185; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; pc)
Built as part of a land deal with the city, this excellent children’s museum has an odd location in a shopping center beside a Costco, about 4km north of downtown, but for travelers with children it’s well worth seeking out. Geared toward education, technology and play, the museum includes a large Lego exhibit, musical elements and lots of bright colors. There’s an IMAX theater in the same complex and discounts for families and groups.
It’s 500m south of the Pullman de Morelos bus terminal ‘Casino de la Selva.’
Pirámide de TeopanzolcoRUINS
(%777-314-12-84; cnr Río Balsas & Ixcateopan; M$50, Sun free; h9:30am-5:30pm)
This very small archaeological site, 1km northeast of the center, actually has two pyramids, one inside the other. You can climb on the outer base and see the older pyramid within, with a double staircase leading up to the remains of a pair of temples. Tlahuicas built the older pyramid over 800 years ago; the outside one was being constructed by the Aztecs when Cortés arrived, and was never completed. The name Teopanzolco means ‘Place of the Old Temple.’
There are a few explanatory signs in English. The site was damaged by the earthquake of September 19, 2017. At the time of writing it was closed for restoration work. Check before your visit to ensure that is has completely opened again.
Jardín BordaGARDENS
(%777-318-82-50; Av Morelos 271; adult/child M$30/15, Sun free; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sun)
Beside the 1784 Parroquia de Guadalupe, this extravagant property, inspired by Versailles, features gardens formally laid out in a series of terraces with paths, steps and fountains. Duck into the house to get an idea of how Mexico’s 19th-century aristocracy lived. In typical colonial style, the buildings are arranged around courtyards. In one wing, the Museo de Sitio has exhibits on daily life during the empire period and original documents with the signatures of Morelos, Juárez and Maximilian.
The property was designed in 1783 for Manuel de la Borda as an addition to the stately residence built by his father, José de la Borda. From 1866 Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota entertained their courtiers here and used the house as a summer residence.
Several romantic paintings in the Sala Manuel M Ponce, a recital hall near the entrance of the house, show scenes of the garden in Maximilian’s time. One of the most famous paintings depicts Maximilian in the garden with La India Bonita, the ‘pretty Indian’ who later became his lover. Originally there was a botanical collection to show off, with hundreds of varieties of ornamental plants and fruit trees. Because of a water shortage, the baroque-style fountains now operate only on weekends.
Plaza de ArmasPLAZA
(map Google map Zócalo; Gutenberg)
Cuernavaca’s zócalo, Plaza de Armas, is flanked on the east by the Palacio de Cortés, on the west by the Palacio de Gobierno map and on the northeast and south by restaurants and roving bands of mariachis. It’s the only main plaza in Mexico without a church, chapel, convent or cathedral overlooking it.
CCourses
Cuernavaca is a well-established center for studying Spanish at all levels and has dozens of language schools. As such, standards are high, teaching is usually very thorough and prices competitive (generally US$240 to US$310 per week, plus registration- and study-material fees and housing). The best schools offer small-group or individual instruction at all levels with four to five hours per day of intensive instruction, plus a couple of hours’ conversation practice. Classes begin each Monday and most schools recommend a minimum enrollment of four weeks.
With so many teaching styles and options, prospective students should research carefully. Contact the tourist office (%777-329-44-04; www.cuernavaca.gob.mx/turismo; Av Morelos 278; h9am-6pm) for an extensive list of schools.
zFestivals & Events
Feria de la PrimaveraCULTURAL
(hMar-Apr)
From late March to early April, the city’s Spring Fair includes cultural and artistic events, plus concerts and a beautiful exhibit of the city’s spring flowers.
CarnavalSTREET CARNIVAL
(hFeb/Mar)
Over the five days leading up to Ash Wednesday, Cuernavaca’s colorful Carnaval celebrations feature parades, art exhibits and street performances by Tepoztlán’s Chinelo dancers.
4Sleeping
Some of the best boutique hotels in the country are here, aimed at weekend escapees from the capital. Budget hotels tend to be simple, while midrange hotels are few. The town fills up with visitors at weekends and holidays, when rates rise significantly. Light sleepers should avoid anywhere within earshot of Plazuela del Zacate on rowdy weekends.
Hotel ColonialHOTEL$
(map Google map %777-318-64-14; Aragón y León 19; s/d/tw/tr incl breakfast M$350/455/500/590; W)
While this relaxed budget hotel may be basic, it’s also excellent value. There’s a garden at its center, cable TV, a free water cooler and decorative floors. The upstairs rooms with balconies and tall ceilings are best.
Hotel Las HortensiasHOTEL$
(map Google map %777-318-52-65; www.hotelhortensias.com; Hidalgo 13; s/d/tw/tr M$390/440/510/660; W)
Cheap and central, Las Hortensias has small, sparse rooms, a lush garden and staff who seem to constantly be cleaning. Street-side rooms are noisy, so bring earplugs or ask for one of the dark interior rooms.
Hotel JuárezHOTEL$
(map Google map %777-314-02-19; Netzahualcóyotl 19; r M$300-400, without bathroom M$250-350; pWs)
The rooms at this well-located hotel are large and airy but have tired beds. To compensate, a breezy terrace overlooks a large grassy backyard, an attractive swimming pool and Cuernavaca’s clay-tiled rooftops. It’s not pretty, but it’s a good budget option, especially for a dip in the water.
Hotel LaamBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(map Google map %777-314-44-11; www.laamhotel.com.mx; Av Morelos 239; d/tw M$960/1520; pWs)
With a motel feel and comfortable, if sterile, rooms (some with huge terraces), this slick hotel is good value. Set back from the road, giving it distance from street noise, Hotel Laam comes with a heated swimming pool and well-tended grounds.
Hotel Antigua PosadaHOTEL$$
(map Google map %777-310-21-79; Galeana 69; r M$850-1000, ste M$1150-1300, all incl breakfast; pWs)
This exclusive little hideaway is a short walk from the center of town and boasts just 11 rooms behind its unpromising exterior. But once inside you’ll find a lovely courtyard and great service. Rooms are gorgeous, complete with wooden beams and rustic touches.
oHotel Hacienda de CortésHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(%777-315-88-44, 800-220-76-97; www.hotelhaciendadecortes.com.mx; Plaza Kennedy 90; d/ste from M$2135/2990; pWs)
Built in the 16th century by Martín Cortés (successor to Hernán Cortés as Marqués del Valle de Oaxaca), this former sugar mill was renovated in 1980 and boasts 23 rooms of various levels of luxury, each with its own private garden and terrace. There’s also a swimming pool built around old stone columns, a gym and an excellent restaurant.
It’s approximately 5km southeast of the center of town. Good online promotions available via the website.
Las MañanitasLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %777-362-00-00; www.lasmananitas.com.mx; Linares 107; ste incl breakfast M$2950-5885; paWs)
If you’re really out to impress someone, book a room at this stunning place. It’s a destination hotel – you may not want to leave the whole weekend – so the fact that it’s not in the center of town isn’t too important. The large rooms are beautifully understated, many with terraces overlooking the gardens, which are full of peacocks and boast a heated pool. Rates are cheaper midweek.
La Casa AzulBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %777-314-21-41, 777-314-36-34; www.hotelcasaazul.com.mx; Arista 17; r M$2915-3330; pWs)
This 24-room boutique hotel is a short walk from the town center and has lots of charm. Originally part of the Guadalupe Convent, the hotel has soothing fountains, two pools, a gym, and a great selection of local arts and crafts throughout.
5Eating
Cuernavaca is a great food town with a few excellent high-end restaurants and plenty of good cafes. There are, however, surprisingly few enticing midrange options.
Emiliano’sMEXICAN$
(map Google map Rayon 5; menú del día M$43-70, mains M$30-85; h8am-7pm)
Quiz any local on their favorite place to eat and you’ll be directed to the thatched roof of homey Emiliano’s. Complex mole and other Mexican sure things, such as stuffed chilies, are only enhanced by tortillas you can watch being handmade. Add breakfast and you’ll be here all day.
Iguana Green’sMEXICAN$
(map Google map Rayón 190; menú del día M$45, mains M$40-90; h8am-6:30pm)
With food this good and this cheap it would easy for Iguana to be just another anonymous fonda (family restaurant) and still draw crowds, but the friendly family in charge take obvious pride in creating a festive space – with brightly colored chairs and tables and messages of appreciation for the authentic Mexican dishes scrawled on the walls.
La CuevaCAFE$
(map Google map Galeana; mains M$40-90; h8am-10pm)
This sloped bar, which opens onto the bustling crowds of Calle Galeana, serves up superb pozole (shredded meat and hominy in a pork-based broth) and other delicious snacks and dishes such as stewed conejo (rabbit). This is a great place to eat with the locals at local prices. Excellent breakfasts start at just M$35.
oLa India BonitaMEXICAN$$
(%777-312-50-21; www.laindiabonita.com; Morrow 115; mains M$150-240; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Set in a lush courtyard, Cuernavaca’s oldest restaurant also has some of its best traditional Mexican food – from brocheta al mezcal (skewered meats marinated in mezcal) to chile en nogada (poblano pepper in walnut sauce) – with the occasional enticing twist. India Bonita operates a tasty bakery-cafe next door.
oLa Maga CaféMEXICAN$$
(map Google map www.lamagacafe.com; Morrow 9; buffet M$103; h1-5pm Mon-Sat; Wv)
The colorful buffet at La Maga features multitudes of glazed pots filled with salads, pastas, fruit, vegetables, and daily specials such as glistening pollo en adobo (chicken marinated in chili and herbs) and tortas de elote (cheesy corn croquettes). There are great vegetarian options and a community vibe, sometimes with live music. Arrive early to nab a window seat.
oL’arrosoir d’ArthurFRENCH$$
( map Google map %777-243-70-86; Calle Juan Ruiz de Alarcón 13; menú del día M$110, mains M$140-180; h1pm-midnight Mon & Wed, from 10am Tue & Thu-Sun; W)
As much a hangout and nightspot as a restaurant, this French-owned place in a loft space downtown has excellent, affordable French dishes (crepes, cassolette, chicken in mustard sauce), plus good cocktails and wines. On weekends, the chilled, European vibe gets more energetic with live music, theater, dance and poetry events.
oRestaurante Hacienda de CortésINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%800-220-76-97, 777-315-88-44; www.hotelhaciendadecortes.com.mx; Plaza Kennedy 90; mains M$105-385; h7am-11pm; paWv)
Situated within Hotel Hacienda de Cortés, a 15-minute drive south east of central Cuernavaca, this elegant but unpretentious hotel restaurant serves an excellent selection of salads and delicious international dishes, including a fantastic vegetarian lasagna, tuna in almond sauce with risotto, and well-prepared Angus steaks. The dining room is spectacular, with massive vines climbing the walls and wrought-iron chandeliers overhead.
Restaurant Las MañanitasFRENCH$$$
(map Google map %777-362-00-00; www.lasmananitas.com.mx; Linares 107; breakfasts M$110-285, mains M$265-490; h8am-10:30pm)
The restaurant and bar of Cuernavaca’s most famous hotel, Las Mañanitas, is a luxurious splurge that’s open to all. The expansive menu has a heavy French accent, with dishes such as entrecôte Bourguignon and sumptuous desserts. Traditional dishes include maguey grubs. Reserve a table inside the mansion or on the terrace, where you can watch wildlife wander among modern garden sculptures.
TamuzINTERNATIONAL$$$
(www.tamuz.mx; Reforma 501; mains M$160-270; h8am-6pm Tue-Wed, to 10pm Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun)
The Israeli chef here dishes up an eclectic menu that includes dishes like chicken marsala Tel Aviv–style, pita with smoked salmon dip, and polenta. The restaurant, in one of the Cuernavaca’s more posh neighborhoods, has a LA-esque design (modern, spare and characterless) with a lovely backyard.
Casa HidalgoMEXICAN$$$
(map Google map %777-312-27-49; www.casahidalgo.com; Jardín de los Héroes 6; menú del día M$230, mains M$155-295; h8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Directly opposite the Palacio de Cortés, with a great terrace and upstairs balcony, this popular restaurant attracts a well-heeled crowd of local socialites. The menu is eclectic – try cold mango-agave soup with jicama, or tlaxcalteca chicken breast stuffed with cheese and roasted poblano pepper with three salsas: squash blossom, spinach and chipotle. Breakfast and lunch set menus available.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cuernavaca’s nightlife is kept buzzing by a student population, especially at rowdy bars and clubs at Plazuela del Zacate and the adjacent alley Las Casas (home of pumping house and techno clubs with that tell-tale accordion of Mexican norteño). All stay open until the last patron leaves, which is usually sunrise on weekends. For something more sophisticated the best options are L’arrosoir d’Arthur, the cafes opposite the cathedral or Mercado Comonfort.
oMercado ComonfortBEER GARDEN
(map Google map www.facebook.com/mercadocomonfort; Comonfort 4; hnoon-11pm or later)
A great addition to the city’s drinking scene away from roudy La Plazuela, this ‘market’ is a secluded courtyard with pubs and small terraced bars from where cool locals can be seen drinking cocktails or lattes. Beer and wine snacks include pizza, tapas, vegetarian meals, and Yucatecan and Oaxacan dishes. Some bars stay open well after midnight on weekends.
oHouse Cafe + LoungeLOUNGE
(map Google map %777-318-37-82; www.lascasasbb.com; Las Casas 110; h8am-11pm Sun-Wed, to 12:30am Thu-Sat; W)
Housed inside a boutique hotel, the food and cocktails at House are excellent, but the real reason that the beautiful people are drawn here is to be seen lounging around the pool by night in a more tranquil environment than the clubs on the same street.
3Entertainment
Hanging around the central plazas is a popular activity, especially on Sunday evenings, when open-air concerts are often staged. There are often recitals at Jardín Borda on Thursday nights, too.
If your español is up to it, sample Cuernavaca’s theater scene.
Los ArcosDANCE
(map Google map %777-312-15-10; Jardín de los Héroes 4; minimum spend M$60; hsalsa 9:30-11:30pm Thu, Fri & Sun)
Come here to dance salsa, not on a stage but around the tables of families having dinner on the terrace, with crowds of appreciative onlookers. The live band’s carnival beats can be heard from the other side of the plaza and have a magnetic effect on your swiveling hips.
Cine Teatro MorelosCINEMA
(map Google map %777-318-10-50; www.cinemorelos.com; Av Morelos 188; tickets from M$30; c)
Morelos’ state theater hosts quality film festivals, plays and dance performances. There’s a full schedule posted out front and a bookstore and cafe inside.
Teatro OcampoTHEATER
(map Google map %777-318-63-85; http://cartelera.morelos.gob.mx/tags/teatro-ocampo; Jardín Juárez 2)
This theater near Jardín Juárez stages contemporary plays. A calendar of cultural events is posted at its entrance.
7Shopping
There are some good quality guayaberas (men’s appliqued shirts), huipiles (long, sleeveless tunics) and upmarket souvenirs in the plaza opposite the cathedral and along the same street.
Mercado de Artesanías y PlataARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map Handicrafts & Silver Market; Juárez, cnr Hidalgo; h8am-9pm)
This relaxed market has handicrafts such as coconut lamps and hand-painted ceramics, found all over Mexico, as well as a plethora of handmade chinelo dolls with upturned beards, a specialty of Morelos. It’s a shady place to browse and prices are reasonable. To find the market, look for the huge statue of Morelos, the revolutionary himself, at the entrance.
Mercado Adolfo López MateosMARKET
(map Google map %777-417-68-59; Adolfo López Mateos; h6am-8pm)
A sprawling, semi-covered market selling fresh produce and other wares, Mercado Adolfo López Mateos bursts with the smells of fruit, meat, flowers and smoked chilies.
8Information
There’s internet access at the Futura and Estrella Blanca bus station and internet cafes all over town.
There’s ana information booth in the cathedral, at the north end of the zócalo (9am to 6pm daily) and other kiosks around town, including at most bus stations. Ask for maps.
Cruz Roja (Red Cross; %777-315-35-15; Rio Pánuco, cnr Leñeros; h24hr) The Red Cross has professional medical consultations for under M$100. It’s a 20-minute drive east of central Cuernavaca.
Main Post Office (Plaza de Armas; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
Municipal Tourist Office (%777-329-44-04; www.cuernavaca.gob.mx/turismo; Av Morelos 278; h9am-6pm) Also has a tourist police office.
State Tourist Office (%777-314-38-81, 800-987-82-24; www.morelosturistico.com; Av Morelos Sur 187; h9am-6pm) This excellent tourist office has a wealth of brochures, maps and information. Also has a city center (%777-314-39-20; www.morelosturistico.com; Hidalgo 5; h9am-6pm) branch.
Tourist Police (% 800-903-92-00)
8Getting There & Away
Hwy 95D (the Mexico City–Acapulco toll road) skirts the city’s east side. If you’re driving from the north, take the Cuernavaca exit and cross to Hwy 95 (where you’ll see a statue of Zapata on horseback). Hwy 95 becomes Blvd Zapata then Avenida Morelos as you descend south into town. From Avenida Matamoros (still traveling south) the Avenida Morelos is one way, northbound only. To reach the center, veer left down Matamoros.
BUS
Cuernavaca’s main-line bus companies operate separate long-distance terminals.
Estrella de Oro (EDO; %777-312-30-55; www.estrelladeoro.com.mx; Av Morelos Sur 812) Departures to Taxco (M$91, 1¼ hours, once or twice daily) and Mexico City’s Terminal Sur (M$132, 1½ hours, seven daily). Pluss also departs from here.
Estrella Roja (ER; %777-318-59-34; www.estrellaroja.com.mx; cnr Galeana & Cuauhtemotzin) Tiny terminal with services to Tepoztlán and Cuautla.
Estrella Blanca (%777-312-26-26; www.estrellablanca.com.mx; Av Morelos 503, btwn Arista & Victoria) Futura, Costa Line and executive ETN services to Toluca (M$235, three hours, twice daily) with Turistar leave from here. Departures to Puebla (M$270, three hours, three to four daily), Taxco, Tepoztlán, Tepotzotlán and Mexico City’s Terminals Norte (two hours) and Sur.
Pullman de Morelos (PDM; %777-318-09-07; www.pullman.mx; cnr Calles Abasolo & Netzahualcóyotl) The most conveniently located station. Comfortable buses to Mexico City’s airport and Terminal Sur.
BUS FROM CUERNAVACA
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cuautla | 64 | 1½ | 28 |
| Mexico City | 100-140 | 1½ | 40 |
| Mexico City Airport | 250 | 2 | 24 |
| Taxco | 90 | 1¾ | 13 |
| Tepoztlán | 24 | ¾ | 28 |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Cuernavaca is 89km south of Mexico City, a 1½-hour drive on Hwy 95 or a one-hour trip on Hwy 95D. Both roads continue south to Acapulco – Hwy 95 detours through Taxco; Hwy 95D is more direct and much faster.
8Getting Around
You can walk to most places of interest in central Cuernavaca. Local buses (M$6.50) advertise their destinations on their windshields. Many local buses, and those to nearby towns, leave from the southern corner of the city’s labyrinthine market, Mercado Adolfo López Mateos. There have been reports of robberies on local buses in Cuernavaca, so exercise caution if you must use them. Taxis to most places in town cost the base fare of M$35.
The bus depots are in walking distance of the zócalo, except the Estrella de Oro bus terminal, 1km south (downhill) of the center, which is reachable on Ruta 17 or 20 down Galeana. In the other direction, catch any bus heading up Avenida Morelos. Ruta 17 and 20 buses head up Avenida Morelos and stop within one block of the Pullman de Morelos terminal at Casino de la Selva.
The Cuernabús (map Google map Hidalgo, cnr Juárez; per person M$100; hdeparts zócalo 11am, 1pm & 3pm Sat & Sun) is a double-decker tourist bus taking in 22km of sights, starting at the zócalo and including parks and sights such as Jardín Borda, the Catedral de Cuernavaca and, most usefully, the Pirámide de Teopanzolco. It has only a Spanish-speaking guide.
Taxco
%762 / Pop 53,000 / Elev 1800m
The first sight of Taxco’s (tahss-ko) white buildings scattered across the steep valley as you approach it is enough to take your breath away. Surrounded by dramatic mountains and cliffs, its perfectly preserved colonial architecture and the twin belfries of its baroque masterpiece, Templo de Santa Prisca, make for one of the most beguiling views anywhere in the central highlands.
Taxco, 160km southwest of Mexico City, has ridden waves of boom and bust associated with wealthy silver deposits discovered here in the 16th century and then repeatedly until the early 20th century. With its silver now almost depleted, Taxco thrives on tourism. As such, it’s a rare example of preservation-centric development in Mexico. Unlike many colonial-era towns, Taxco has not been engulfed by industrial suburbs, and new buildings must conform to the old in scale, style and materials. This preserves Taxco as a striking small city and one of the best weekend trips from the capital.
History
Taxco was called Tlachco (Ball-Playing Place) by the Aztecs, who dominated the region from 1440 until the Spanish arrived. The colonial city was founded by Rodrigo de Castañeda in 1529, with a mandate from Hernán Cortés. Among the town’s first Spanish residents were three miners, Juan de Cabra, Juan Salcedo and Diego de Nava, and the carpenter Pedro Muriel. In 1531 they established the first Spanish mine in North America.
The Spaniards came searching for tin, which they found in small quantities, but by 1534 they had discovered tremendous lodes of silver. That year the Hacienda El Chorrillo was built, complete with water wheel, smelter and aqueduct – the remains of the latter form the old arches (Los Arcos) over Hwy 95 at the north end of town.
The prospectors quickly depleted the first silver veins and fled Taxco. Further quantities of ore were not discovered until 1743. Don José de la Borda, who had arrived in 1716 from France at the age of 16 to work with his miner brother, accidentally unearthed one of the region’s richest veins. According to the legend, Borda was riding near where the Templo de Santa Prisca now stands when his horse stumbled, dislodged a stone and exposed the precious metal.
Borda went on to introduce new techniques of draining and repairing mines, and he reportedly treated his indigenous workers better than most colonial mine owners. The Templo de Santa Prisca was the devout Borda’s gift to Taxco. His success attracted more prospectors, and new silver veins were found and played out. With most of the silver gone, Taxco became a quiet town with a dwindling population and economy.
In 1929 a US architect and professor named William (Guillermo) Spratling arrived and, at the suggestion of the then US ambassador Dwight Morrow, set up a silver workshop as a way to rejuvenate the town. (Another version has it that Spratling was writing a book and resorted to the silver business because his publisher went bust. A third has it that Spratling had a notion to create jewelry that synthesized pre-Hispanic motifs with art deco modernism.) The workshop evolved into a factory, and Spratling’s apprentices began establishing their own shops. Today Taxco is home to hundreds of silver shops, many producing for export.
1Sights
oTemplo de Santa PriscaCHURCH
(map Google map Plaza Borda 1)
The icon of Taxco, Santa Prisca is one of Mexico’s most beautiful and striking pieces of baroque architecture. Its standout feature (best viewed side-on) is the contrast between its belfries, with their elaborate Churrigueresque facade, and the far more simple, constrained and elegant nave. The rose-colored stone used on the facade is extraordinarily beautiful in sunlight – look for the oval bas-relief depiction of Christ’s baptism above the doorway. Inside, the intricately sculpted, gold-covered altarpieces are equally fine Churrigueresque specimens.
Santa Prisca was a labor of love for town hero José de la Borda. The local Catholic hierarchy allowed the silver magnate to donate this church to Taxco on the condition that he mortgage his mansion and other assets to guarantee its completion. The project nearly bankrupted him, but the risk produced an extraordinary legacy. It was designed by Spanish architects Juan Caballero and Diego Durán, and was constructed between 1751 and 1758.
Museo Guillermo SpratlingMUSEUM
(map Google map %762-622-16-60; Delgado 1; M$40; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
This very well laid-out three-story history and archaeology museum is off an alley behind Templo de Santa Prisca. It contains a small but excellent collection of pre-Hispanic jewelry, art, pottery and sculpture from US silversmith William Spratling’s private collection. The phallic cult pieces are a particular eye-opener. On the basement floor there are examples of Spratling’s designs using pre-Hispanic motifs. The top floor hosts occasional temporary exhibits.
Museo de Arte VirreinalMUSEUM
(map Google map %762-622-55-01; Ruiz de Alarcón 12; M$50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This charming, rather ragtag religious-art museum is housed in a wonderful old house. It hosts a small but well-displayed collection of art, labeled in English and Spanish. The most interesting exhibit describes restoration work on Santa Prisca, during which some fabulous material (including tapestries, woodwork altarpieces and rich decorative fabrics) was discovered in the basement of the house. There is also an interesting display on the Manila Galleons, which pioneered trade between the Americas and the Far East.
The Museo de Arte Virreinal is often referred to as Casa Humboldt, even though the famous German explorer and naturalist Friedrich Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt slept here for only one night in 1803.
Casa BordaNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map %762-622-66-34; Centro Cultural Taxco, Plaza Borda; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F
Built by José de la Borda in 1759, the Casa Borda serves as a cultural center hosting experimental theater and exhibiting contemporary sculpture, painting and photography by Guerrero artists. The building, however, is the main attraction. Due to the unevenness of the terrain, the rear window looks out on a precipitous four-story drop, even though the entrance is on the ground floor.
WORTH A TRIP
XOCHICALCO
Atop a desolate plateau with views for miles around, Xochicalco (%737-374-30-92; http://turismo.morelos.gob.mx/zona-arqueologica-de-xochicalco; admission M$70, video permit M$35; h9am-6pm, last entry 5pm) is an impressive and relatively easy day trip from Cuernavaca that shouldn’t be missed. It’s large enough to make the journey worthwhile, but not so well known as to be overrun by tourists.
A Unesco World Heritage site and one of central Mexico’s most important archaeological sites, Xochicalco (so-chee-cal-co) is Náhuatl for ‘place of the house of flowers.’ The collection of white stone ruins, many still to be excavated, covers approximately 10 sq km. They represent the various cultures – Tlahuica, Toltec, Olmec, Zapotec, Mixtec and Aztec – for which Xochicalco was a commercial, cultural and religious center. When Teotihuacán began to weaken around AD 650 to 700, Xochicalco began to rise in importance, achieving its peak between AD 650 and 900, with far-reaching cultural and commercial relations. Around AD 650, Zapotec, Maya and Gulf Coast spiritual leaders convened here to correlate their respective calendars. Xochicalco remained an important center until around 1200, when its excessive growth precipitated a demise similar to that of Teotihuacán.
The site’s most famous monument is the Pirámide de Quetzalcóatl. Archaeologists have surmised from its well-preserved bas-reliefs that astronomer-priests met here at the beginning and end of each 52-year cycle of the pre-Hispanic calendar. Signage here is in English and Spanish, but information at the excellent, ecologically sensitive museum, situated 200m from the ruins, is in Spanish only.
From October through May, the site offers an occasional light show (%reservations 737-374-30-90; xochicalco.mor@inah.gob.mx; M$7; hOct-May) on Friday and Saturday nights. It’s quite a spectacle, but call ahead because the shows aren’t regular.
From Cuernavaca’s market, colectivos with ‘Xochi’ on their windshield (M$15) depart every 30 minutes for the site entrance. Larger buses from the Pullman de Morelos terminal make the same trip, directly, but only on Saturday and Sunday. On arrival, you’ll need to walk to the museum to buy tickets. The last return colectivo leaves around 6pm. Alternatively, take a taxi (M$30) from the site to the nearby town of Alpuyeca, where there are frequent colectivos back to Cuernavaca.
2Activities
TeleféricoCABLE CAR
(www.montetaxco.mx; one way/round trip adult M$65/95, child M$45/65; h7:45am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
From the north end of Taxco, a Swiss-made gondola ascends 173m to the Hotel Monte Taxco resort, affording fantastic views of Taxco and the surrounding mountains from the hotel pool – ask at reception for directions.
Combis marked ‘Arcos/Zócalo’ (M$6.50) stop downhill from the cable car entrance. Walk uphill from the south side of Los Arcos and turn right through the Escuela Nacional de Artes Plásticas gate.
The Hotel Monte bar-restaurant, El Taxqueño, has great views and is surprisingly more economical than the balcony restaurants around Taxco’s zócalo.
WORTH A TRIP
CACAHUAMILPA CAVERNS
One of central Mexico’s most stunning natural sights, the Cacahuamilpa Caverns (Grutas de Cacahuamilpa; %721-104-01-55; http://cacahuamilpa.conanp.gob.mx; adult/child incl guide M$80/70; h10am-5pm; p) are a must-see for anyone visiting Taxco or Cuernavaca. The scale of the caves is hard to imagine, with vast chambers up to 82m high leading 1.2km beneath the mountainside, inside of which are mind-blowing stalactites and stalagmites.
Unfortunately, individual access to the (perfectly safe) pathway through the caves is not allowed. Instead, visitors are allocated free guides who lead large group tours (departures each hour on the hour), with constant stops to point out shapes (Santa Claus, a kneeling child, a gorilla) in the rock. At the end of the hour-long tour, you can wander back to the entrance – with the lights now off – at your own pace. Most guides do not speak English.
From the cave exit it’s possible to follow a steep path for 15 minutes to the fast-flowing Río Dos Bocas. There are spectacular views year-round and tranquil pools for swimming during the dry season. Bring bug spray.
Weekends are often very crowded, with long lines and large group tours – making midweek a more pleasant time for a visit. There are restaurants, snacks and souvenir stores near the entrance. Between the entrance and the caves, it’s possible to take a short zipline (M$70) across the treetops, or you can just walk the 150m around.
To reach the caves, take an Estrella Roja ‘Grutas’ bus from the Futura bus terminal in Taxco (M$40, 40 minutes, every 40 minutes) or taxi (M$180). Buses deposit you at the crossroad where the road splits off to Cuernavaca. From there, walk 350m downhill to the park’s visitor center. Return buses leave from the same crossroad (every 40 minutes, last bus 6:30pm). Pullman de Morelos have direct services from Cuernavaca Centro (M$70, two hours, every two hours until 7:43pm) to the caves; the last return bus is at 6pm.
CCourses
Taxco’s cozy mountain atmosphere and relative safety makes it a popular place for foreigners, especially Americans, to study Spanish and silverwork.
Centro de Enseñanza Para ExtranjerosLANGUAGE
(CEPE; %762-622-34-10; www.cepe.unam.mx; Ex-Hacienda El Chorrillo s/n; 6-week intensive course M$12,000)
This branch of Mexico City’s Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México offers intensive Spanish-language courses in the atmospheric Ex-Hacienda El Chorrillo.
Escuela Nacional de Artes PlásticasART
(%762-622-36-90; www.fad.taxco.unam.mx; Del Chorrillo; courses from US$1200)
This school offers arts workshops in painting, sculpture and jewelry.
zFestivals & Events
Be sure to reserve your hotel in advance if your visit coincides with one of Taxco’s annual festivals. Check exact dates of movable feasts with the tourist office.
Feria de la PlataFERIA
(hNov/Dec)
The weeklong national silver fair convenes in late November or early December. Craft competitions are held and some of Mexico’s best silverwork is on display. Other festivities include rodeos, concerts, dances and burro (donkey) races.
Las PosadasCULTURAL
(hDec)
From December 16 to 24, nightly candlelit processions fill Taxco’s streets with door-to-door singing. Children are dressed up to resemble biblical characters. At the end of the night, they attack piñatas.
Día del JumilFOOD & DRINK
(hNov)
The Monday after the Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead; November 2), locals celebrate the jumil – the edible beetle said to represent the giving of life and energy to Taxco residents for another year. Many families camp on the Cerro de Huixteco (above town) over the preceding weekend, and townsfolk climb the hill to collect jumiles and share food and camaraderie.
Fiestas de Santa Prisca & San SebastiánRELIGIOUS
(hJan)
Taxco’s patron saints are honored on January 18 (Santa Prisca) and January 20 (San Sebastián), when locals parade by the Templo de Santa Prisca for an annual blessing, with their pets and farm animals in tow.
4Sleeping
Taxco has a wealth of hotels, from large four- and five-star resorts to charming family-run posadas. During holiday weekends, when the hordes arrive from Mexico City, it’s a good idea to reserve ahead.
Earplugs are also a good idea. Owing to the innumerable Volkswagen taxis that serve as transportation in this, the steepest of hill towns, street noise is a problem nearly everywhere.
Hostel Casa TaxcoHOSTEL$
(map Google map %762-622-70-37; www.hostelcasataxco.com; Veracruz 5; dm/d M$250/550, tw/q with shared bathroom M$500/800; W)
You know Taxco is getting with the times when you lay eyes on this beautiful converted house with its artisanal tiles and furnishings – it’s almost a poshtel. The dorms only have two or four beds, and there’s the calm vibe of a colonial home. There’s also an open-plan kitchen and a roof terrace with cathedral views.
Hotel Casa GrandeHOTEL$
(map Google map %762-622-09-69; www.hotelcasagrandetaxco.com.mx; Plazuela de San Juan 7; with/without bathroom s M$330/220, tw M$515/330, tr M$600/420; W)
Its excellent location and hypnotic terrace views over the plazuela make Casa Grande an attractive budget option, but bring your earplugs as the music from the restaurant-bar La Concha Nostra goes late into the night on weekends. Rooms are small but have fresh cotton sheets.
oHotel Los ArcosHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(map %762-622-18-36; www.hotellosarcosdetaxco.com; Juan Ruiz de Alarcón 4; d M$1080; W)
With plenty of plant-filled terraces, courtyards, rooftop space and chic cushioned areas to lounge about it, this beautiful old hotel could be a destination in itself. Rooms are large and rustic with comfortable beds and touches of Mexican decoration, and the location near the zócalo is convenient, though street-facing rooms have some traffic noise.
oHotel Mi CasitaINN$$
(map Google map %762-627-17-77; www.hotelmicasita.com; Altos de Redondo 1; r incl breakfast from M$1020; 
niW)
This elegant colonial home run by a family of jewelry designers boasts 12 beautifully and individually decorated rooms just moments from the zócalo, with wraparound balconies giving views over the cathedral. The comfortable rooms feature original hand-painted bathroom tiles, three with Talavera bathtubs, some with private terraces and all with fans.
Hotel EmiliaHOTEL$$
(map Google map %762-622-13-90; www.hotelemilia.com.mx; Ruiz de Alarcón 7; d/tr M$850/950; Ws)
All 14 rooms are spotlessly clean and have beautiful tiled bathrooms. Owned by a family of famous silver workers, this intimate hotel has colonial charm and includes free use of the pools at nearby Hotel Agua Escondida. Sadly, it’s in an especially noisy location – ask for a room at the back, but don’t miss the views from the rooftop terrace.
Hotel Santa PriscaHOTEL$$
(map Google map %762-622-00-80; www.facebook.com/santaprisca.hotel; Cenaobscuras 1; r M$585-770, ste/f M$860/1100; pW)
The 31-room Santa Prisca has traditional Mexican decor and a welcoming courtyard garden. It has a great location too, right in the thick of things. Rooms are smallish, but most have breezy private balconies. All have two beds, and newer, sunnier rooms cost a bit more. The parking lot is reached through a tunnel at the hotel’s uphill end.
Pueblo LindoHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %762-622-34-81; www.pueblolindo.com.mx; Hidalgo 30; r & ste incl breakfast M$1290-2990; piWs)
This luxurious hotel manages to balance style and substance, embracing a modern Mexican-inspired aesthetic with bright colors and wooden furnishings. There’s a bar-lounge and excellent service. The rooftop pool has fantastic views over Taxco, as do many of the rooms.
Posada de la MisiónLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(%800-008-29-20, 762-622-00-63; http://posadamision.com; Cerro de la Misión 32; r incl breakfast M$2145-5355; pWs)
On a steep hill overlooking town, the rambling grounds of La Misión are a luxurious escape from Taxco’s bustle. Rooms are large, bright and airy, and many have balconies with breathtaking views. There’s also a gorgeous pool and Jacuzzi under a mosaic of Cuauhtémoc, and an excellent restaurant.
5Eating
The jumil (similar to a stink beetle) is a delicacy in Taxco, notably during the Día del Jumil festivity – look for them in a cucurucho (paper cone) in the market. They are traditionally eaten live in a tortilla, but are more commonly seen crushed into a sauce.
For street food, try the excellent barbecued pork tacos in Plazuela de San Juan at night.
La SusheríaJAPANESE$
(map Google map www.facebook.com/lasusheriataxco; Ruiz de Alarcón 7; sushi M$70-105; h1-11pm; Wv)
This sushi restaurant in the lobby of Hotel Emilia reflects modern Taxco with its designer furniture but casual vibe. The sushi is fresh and finished nicely with the green-tea ice cream – heaven in a cocktail glass. If you’re here on a date or a business lunch, the slick booths are the perfect place to impress.
Restaurante Santa FeMEXICAN$
(map Google map %762-622-11-70; Hidalgo 2; mains M$70-115; h8am-8pm)
In business for over 50 years, Santa Fe is a favorite among locals for its fairly priced traditional fare such as conejo en chile ajo (rabbit in garlic and chili). The walls are plastered with patron photos and some excellent B&W shots of ye olde Taxco. A three-course menú de hoy is available at lunch, and sometimes later, for M$87.
oEl SotaventoMEXICAN$$
(%762-627-12-17; Alarcón 4; mains M$90-185; h9am-11pm Thu-Tue)
It’s easy to be wooed by the cobblestone arches in the warm lighting of Sotavento’s tranquil courtyard. Classic Mexican dishes such as enchiladas and chicken mole are some of the best in town and there are cocktails and some surprisingly good European options too. The Sunday breakfast buffet (M$130) is a wonderful indulgence.
La Hacienda de TaxcoMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %762-622-11-66; Plaza Borda 4; mains M$80-175; h7:30am-10:30pm; vc)
Offering an extensive menu of traditional Mexican dishes (including house-made jam in the morning and a 20-ingredient, house-made mole in the afternoon), La Hacienda also has considerate touches, like the option of egg-white-only breakfasts, vegetarian dishes and smaller portions for kids.
Hostería Bar El AdobeMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %762-622-14-16; Plazuela de San Juan 13; mains M$65-225; h8am-11pm)
This place doesn’t have the zócalo views, but the interior is charmingly decorated with B&W photos of everyone from Pancho Villa to Elvis, and the cute balcony tables are more private. Good, simple dishes include pan-fried chicken or fish in salsa with rice and veg. There’s pozole (M$65) on Thursday, live trova music on Saturday night and a buffet (M$125) on Sunday.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bar BertaCANTINA
(map Google map %762-107-55-90; www.facebook.com/barbertataxco; Cuauhtémoc; hnoon-10pm Wed-Mon)
By rights Berta should be flooded with lost-looking tourists, but instead there’s a clientele of local roughs knocking back stiff drinks and watching fútbol. There’s a tiny upstairs terrace for people-watching over the zócalo. Try a Berta (tequila, honey, lime and mineral water), the house specialty.
7Shopping
Nuestro México ArtesaníasARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map %762-622-09-76; Veracruz 8; h10am-6pm)
Treasure hunters will love fossicking in this storehouse of handicrafts from across Mexico. Most of the favorite souvenirs are here – coconut masks, papier-mâché devils, flying cherubs, fish wind chimes and, yes, silver. The prices are marked and close to what you pay on the street outside.
Patio de las ArtesaníasJEWELRY
(map Google map Plaza Borda; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
If you are looking for silver, there are several shops to wander through in the Patio de las Artesanías building.
EBA Elena BallesterosJEWELRY
(map Google map %762-622-37-67; www.ebaplata.com; Muñoz 4; h9:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
EBA Elena Ballesteros produces creative, well-crafted silver designs in Taxco.
8Information
Several banks around the main plazas and bus stations have ATMs.
Hospital General (%762-622-93-00; Los Jales 120)
Tourist Office (cnr Juárez & Plazuela del Exconvento; h9am-8pm) Next to the post office, it offers maps and good information. Note that the tourism kiosk in the main plaza mostly exists to hand out brochures and push tours.
8Getting There & Away
The shared Futura/Estrella Blanca terminal on Avenida de los Plateros offers luggage storage. The Primera Plus/Estrella de Oro (EDO) terminal is at the south end of town. The Futura bus to Mexico City runs mostly on the hour.
For more frequent bus services to the coast, take a shared taxi (M$30) from in front of the bus station to the nearby town of Iguala, about 30 minutes away.
Buses serve Acapulco (M$300, four to five hours, seven daily) from the EDO and Futura terminals; Cuernavaca from EDO (M$100, two hours, five daily) and Futura (M$90, 1½ hours, 12 daily); and Mexico City’s Terminal Sur (M$209, 2½ hours) from EDO (four to six daily) and Futura (eight daily).
8Getting Around
While one of the joys of Taxco is getting lost while aimlessly wandering the pretty streets, it’s actually a very easy place to find your way around. The twin belfries of Santa Prisca make the best landmark, situated as they are on the zócalo, Plaza Borda.
Nearly all of the town’s streets are one way, with the main road, Avenida de los Plateros, being the only major two-way street. This is where both bus stations are located and is the road for entering and leaving the town. The basic colectivo route is a counterclockwise loop going north on Avenida de los Plateros and south through the center of town.
Apart from walking, combis and taxis are the best way to navigate Taxco’s steep and narrow cobbled streets.
Combis (white Volkswagen minibuses; M$6.50) are frequent and operate from 7am to 8pm. ‘Zócalo’ combis depart from Plaza Borda, travel down Cuauhtémoc to Plazuela de San Juan then head down the hill on Hidalgo. They turn right at Morelos, left at Avenida de los Plateros and go north, passing the Futura bus station, until La Garita, where they turn left and return to the zócalo. ‘Arcos/Zócalo’ combis follow the same route except that they continue past La Garita to Los Arcos, where they do a U-turn and head back to La Garita. Combis marked ‘PM’ (for Pedro Martín) go to the south end of town from Plaza Borda, past the Estrella de Oro bus station. Taxis cost M$25 to M$35 for trips around town.
WEST OF MEXICO CITY
The area to the west of Mexico City is dominated by the large industrial, transportation-hub city of Toluca, the capital of the state of Mexico. While pleasant, Toluca has little to recommend it to travelers and most bypass it en route to the area’s two wonderful small-town, colonial gems. Malinalco is a sleepy and remote village with some fascinating pre-Hispanic ruins perched above it, and Valle de Bravo, a cosmopolitan getaway, is located on the shores of a large, artificial reservoir, a dramatic two-hour drive west of Toluca. The countryside surrounding Toluca itself is scenic, with pine forests, rivers and a huge extinct volcano, Nevado de Toluca.
Toluca
%722 / Pop 490,000 / Elev 2660m
Like many colonial Mexican cities, Toluca’s development has created a ring of urban sprawl around what remains a very picturesque old town. The traffic problems alone can be enough to dampen the city’s appeal, but those who make time to visit will find Toluca a pleasant, if bustling, small city. It’s an enjoyable place to spend a day exploring attractive plazas, lively shopping arcades, art galleries and museums.
The vast Plaza de los Mártires, with the cathedral and Palacio de Gobierno, marks the town center. Most of the action, however, is concentrated a block south in the pedestrian precinct ringed by arcos (archways). Shady Parque Alameda is three blocks west along Hidalgo.
1Sights
The 19th-century Portal Madero, running 250m along Avenida Hidalgo, is lively, as is the commercial arcade along the pedestrian street to the east, which attracts mariachis after 9pm. A block north, the large, open expanse of Plaza de los Mártires is surrounded by fine old government buildings; the 19th-century cathedral and the 18th-century Templo de la Santa Veracruz are on its south side. On Plaza Garibay’s north side is the 18th-century Templo del Carmen.
oCosmovitral Jardín BotánicoGARDENS
(Cosmic Stained-Glass Window Botanical Garden; %722-214-67-85; Juárez s/n, cnr Lerdo de Tejada; adult/child M$10/5; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
At the northeast end of Plaza Garibay, the stunning and unique Cosmovitral Jardín Botánico was built in 1909 as a market. The building now houses 3500 sq meters of lovely gardens, lit through 48 stained-glass panels designed by the Tolucan artist Leopoldo Flores with the help of 60 artisans. The 500,000 pieces of glass come in 28 different colors from seven countries, including Japan, Belgium and Italy.
oMuseo de Culturas PopularesMUSEUM
(Museum of Popular Culture; %722-274-54-58; Blvd Reyes Heroles 302; adult/child M$10/5; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
This museum has a wonderfully varied collection of Mexico’s traditional arts and crafts, with some astounding ‘trees of life’ from Metepec, whimsical Day of the Dead figures and a fine display of charro (cowboy) gear. There are also mosaics, traditional rugs, a loft and a gift shop.
Museo de Arte ModernoMUSEUM
(Museum of Modern Art; %722-274-12-66; Blvd Reyes Heroles 302; M$10, Sun free; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
The Museo de Arte Moderno traces the development of Mexican art from the late-19th-century Academia de San Carlos to the Nueva Plástica and includes paintings by Tamayo, Orozco and many others. There’s an impressive spherical mural of people fighting against slavery, which makes up part of the building itself, as well as exhibits of challenging pieces of contemporary art.
Museo de Antropología e HistóriaMUSEUM
(Museum of Anthropology & History; %722-274-12-00; Blvd Reyes Heroles 302; M$10, Sun free; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
This standout museum presents exhibits on the state’s history from prehistoric times to the 20th century, with a good collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts. It also traces pre-Hispanic cultural influences up to the modern day in tools, clothing, textiles and religion. Most labeling is in Spanish only.
Museo Luis NishizawaMUSEUM
(%722-215-74-65; Bravo Norte 305; adult/child M$10/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
This musuem exhibits the work of modern Mexican-Japanese muralist and landscape artist Luis Nishizawa (1918–2014). Nishizawa was born in the state of Mexico and trained in both Mexican and Japanese artistic styles, which is reflected in murals constructed from ceramics. He is known for his mixed-media sculptures and intensely colorful ink paintings of nature and people. His works are held in collections across the world, including MOMAK in Kyoto.
Centro Cultural MexiquenseMUSEUM
(State of Mexico Cultural Center; %722-274-12-22; Blvd Reyes Heroles 302; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) F
This cultural center, 4.5km west of the city center, houses three good museums (which all keep the same hours). It’s no must-see, but still a worthwhile free diversion for visitors interested in local arts and crafts, local archaeology and modern art.
From downtown you can take a cab (M$40), though it’s easy to take one of the plentiful colectivos from outside Mercado Juárez – just look for ‘Centro Cultural’ on its destination board. The circuitous ride takes 20 minutes. Get off by the large grass roundabout near the Monterrey University Toluca campus, cross to the opposite side and the museum complex is through the gate and down the road.
Museo de Bellas Artes de TolucaMUSEUM
(Museum of Fine Art; %722-215-53-29; Degollado 102; adult/child M$10/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
The ex-convent buildings adjacent to the Templo del Carmen, on the north side of Plaza Garibay, house Toluca’s Museo de Bellas Artes, which exhibits paintings from the colonial period to the early 20th century.
TTours
TranvíaTRAM
(%722-330-50-52; www.turismotolucalabella.com; Independencia, cnr Bravo; adult/child M$60/40; hdeparts hourly 11am-5pm Fri-Sun)
This motorized trolley visits two dozen sites in the city in an hour with a Spanish-only guide. Most of the year, there are also leyendas night tours (adult/child M$90/70, 6:30pm to 11pm Friday to Sunday, 1½ hours, every 1½ hours), visiting 12 sites accompanied by a guide recounting ‘legends’ associated with each building.
4Sleeping
oHotel ColonialINN$
(%722-215-97-00; Hidalgo Oriente 103; s/d/tr M$400/500/650; pW)
The rooms overlooking the busy main road are the best, but also the loudest, at this well-run and excellent-value hotel. The impressive lobby and friendly staff are other good reasons to stay here. Rates include free parking nearby in a lot on Juárez. Popular with groups, so call ahead.
Hotel MayaHOTEL$
(%722-214-48-00; Hidalgo 413; r with/without bathroom M$400/300; W)
The extremely central location of this one-grandma-run posada makes a handy, if very no-frills, base for a quick visit of Toluca’s sights. If street noise bothers you, choose a darker interior room.
Hotel Don SimónBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(%722-213-26-96; www.hoteldonsimon.com; Matamoros 202; d/tr M$1200/1400; piW)
The rooms at Don Simón are immaculately clean and bright, if a little heavy on the brown furnishings of yesteryear, which continue into the attached restaurant. It’s a balanced all-rounder in central Toluca – the staff are friendly, the street is quiet and it’s just a short walk to Cosmovitral.
Fiesta Inn Toluca CentroBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
(%722-167-89-00; www.fiestainn.com; Allende Sur 124; r/ste M$1685/2570; piW)
This modern, sleek, 85-room Fiesta Inn has airy, comfortable rooms, a small gym and a cafe-bar-restaurant in the lobby. There’s a second Fiesta Inn near the airport.
5Eating
Toluqueños take snacking and sweets very seriously and you can join them in the arcades around Plaza Fray Andrés de Castro. Other stalls sell candied fruit and jamoncillos (bars of pumpkin-seed paste), and mostachones (sweets made of burned milk). Most eateries in the center are open from around 8am to 9pm.
oLa Gloria Chocolatería y Pan 1876CAFE$
(Quintana Roo; snacks M$10-35; h9am-11:30pm)
You’ll probably be the only foreigner at this wonderful, friendly, family-run cafe. It serves a tempting menu of local cuisine, from tacos al pastor (spicy pork tacos) to delicious sermones (sandwiches) stuffed with oven-baked pork or shredded chicken bathed in mole poblano.
La Vaquita Negra del PortalSANDWICHES$
(%722-167-13-77; Portal Reforma 124B; sandwiches M$24-34; h8:30am-8pm)
On the northwest corner of the arcades, smoked hams and huge green-and-red sausages hanging over the deli counter signal first-rate tortas. Try a messy toluqueña (red pork chorizo sausage, white cheese, cream, tomato and salsa verde), and don’t forget to garnish your heaped sandwich with spicy pickled peppers and onions.
Hostería Las RamblasMEXICAN$$
(%722-215-54-88; Calle 20 de Noviembre 107D; mains M$110-180; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; v)
On a pedestrian mall, this atmospheric restaurant feels like a throwback to the 1950s, with white tablecloths and retro decor. Attentive waiters serve full breakfasts, including excellent vegetarian options such as the omelette campesino – panela cheese, rajas (poblano chili) and zucchini – and a variety of lunch and dinner mains such as mole verde and conejo al ajillo (liberally garlicked rabbit).
7Shopping
oCasartARTS & CRAFTS
(Casa de Artesanía; %722-217-52-63; Aldama 102; h10:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
This downtown location of Casart – the state organization promoting local crafts – is fantastic both for its beautiful home, set around a courtyard, and its wonderful selection of quality arts and crafts. Prices are fixed and therefore higher than you might be able to get haggling in markets for an inferior product (for the best prices, go directly to the source).
8Information
There are banks with ATMs near Portal Madero.
City Tourist Office (%722-384-11-00, ext 104; www.toluca.gob.mx/turismo; Plaza Fray Andrés de Castro, Edificio B, Local 6, Planta Baja; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) English-speaking staff provide free city maps and can help book accommodations.
State Tourist Office (%722-212-59-98; www.edomexico.gob.mx; Urawa 100, cnr Paseo Tollocan; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Inconveniently located 2km southeast of the center, but with English-speaking staff and good maps.
Tourist Information Kiosk (www.turismotolucalabella.com; Palacio Municipal; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) Helpful kiosk with free city map.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The modern, efficient and low-stress Aeropuerto Internacional de Toluca (TOL; %722-279-28-00; Blvd Miguel Alemán Valdez) is an excellent alternative to Mexico City’s massive and intimidating airport. Conveniently located off Hwy 15, about 10km from downtown, the airport is adjacent to the industrial zone and a group of business-friendly chain hotels.
Toluca is the hub for budget airline Interjet (www.interjet.com.mx), which offers flights to Las Vegas and all over Mexico.
Spirit Airlines (%800-772-7117; www.spirit.com) and Volaris (%800-122-80-00; www.volaris.com.mx) also offer international service, flying travelers between Toluca and several cities in the US, including Los Angeles, Chicago, Las Vegas, Houston, San Francisco, Seattle, Newark, Miami, New York and Atlanta.
Europcar, Dollar and Alamo all have rental-car offices at the airport.
BUS
There are frequent Caminante shuttle buses from Toluca’s airport to Mexico City’s Observatorio bus terminal (M$202) daily to about 7pm or 8pm; and to the capital’s Aeropuerto Internacional (M$200, five daily). Both take an hour or two, depending on traffic. Interjet has shuttles to Cuernavaca (M$255). An authorized taxi from the airport to downtown Toluca costs about M$35 and takes 20 to 30 minutes.
Toluca’s bus station (Terminal Toluca; www.terminaltoluca.com.mx; Berriozábal 101) is 2km southeast of the center. Ticket offices for many destinations are on the platforms or at the gate entrances, and it’s fair to say it can be a confusing place. Look for monitors at gate entrances that reveal which gates sell which destination.
BUSES FROM TOLUCA
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cuernavaca | 71-235 | 2 | 24 |
| Mexico City (Poniente) | 50-90 | 1 | 55 |
| Morelia | 258-332 | 2 | 16 |
| Taxco | 189 | 3 | 7 |
| Valle de Bravo | 77 | 2¼ | 10 |
| Zihuatanejo | 643 | 9 | 1 |
8Getting Around
The main road from Mexico City becomes Paseo Tollocan on Toluca’s eastern edge, before bearing southwest and becoming a ring road around the city center’s southern edge. Toluca’s bus station and the huge Mercado Juárez are 2km southeast of the center, off Paseo Tollocan.
Large ‘Centro’ buses depart from outside Toluca’s bus station to the town center (M$10, 20 minutes) along Lerdo de Tejada and by Plaza de los Mártires. From Juárez in the center, ‘Terminal’ buses go to the bus station. Taxis from the bus station to the city center cost around M$45.
Nevado de Toluca
Among the highest peaks in the region, the long-extinct volcano Nevado de Toluca (also known as Xinantécatl) is Mexico’s fourth-tallest peak. Nevado has two summits on the crater rim, each worth hiking for magnificent views across two snow-fringed crater lakes – Sol and Luna. The lower summit, Pico del Aguila (4620m), is closer to the parking area and is the more common day hike. The main or highest summit is called Pico del Fraile (4704m) and requires an additional three to four hours of hike time.
In 2013 the Mexican government redesignated the national park a zona protegida (protected area), legalising and legitimising the unregulated mining activity that had been going on there. Most people still continue to call it a national park.
2Activities
Mario AndradeCLIMBING
(%55-1826-2146; mountainup@hotmail.com; transportation, one meal & park entrance US$200)
English-speaking Mario Andrade leads one-day private climbs up Nevado de Toluca and also guides climbers on Izta ascents.
4Sleeping
Posada FamiliarHOSTEL$
(%722-214-37-86; campsite/dm M$85/150)
Just beyond the Parque de los Venados gate, Posada Familiar, the only accommodations in the park, offers basic lodging at a heavily used refuge with shared hot showers, a kitchen (without utensils) and a common area with a fireplace. Bring extra blankets. It is best to reserve two weeks ahead.
8Getting There & Away
The best way to get to Nevado de Toluca is with a private guide or tour.
From Toluca, taxis will take you to the trailhead for upwards of M$250, or there and back (including time for a look around) for a negotiable M$600. Be sure to hire a newer taxi (the road up is very rough and dusty) from an official taxi stand with the driver’s photo displayed inside the vehicle. Most international car-rental companies also have offices in Toluca.
From the park entrance a road winds 3.5km up to the main gate (Carretera Temascaltpec Km 18, San Antonio Acahualco; admission per vehicle/camioneta M$20/40; h10am-5pm, last entry 3pm). From there it’s a 17km drive along an unsurfaced road up to the crater. Dress warmly – it gets chilly up top.
Valle de Bravo
%726 / Pop 28,000 / Elev 1800m
With one of the loveliest colonial centers in central Mexico, the pueblo mágico of Valle de Bravo is an utter charmer and a wonderful spot for an escape from Mexico City. The setting here is reminiscent of the northern Italian lakes, with thickly wooded, mist-clad hills and red terracotta roofing used throughout the town. Valle, as it’s known, is famous for being the weekend retreat of choice for the capital’s well-connected upper classes.
There are stunning views at the shore of Lago Avándaro – an artificial lake, the result of the construction of a hydroelectric station – but the beguiling and largely intact colonial center is arguably the real draw here. Boating on the lake is very popular as well, as are hiking and camping in the hills around the town. Valle is set up well for visitors while still feeling authentic.
2Activities
Boating on the pleasant lake is the main activity here and you will be approached by plenty of operators anywhere near the water. Lanchas (small boats) with a captain run about M$400/700 for 30 minutes/one hour. Many include visits to a waterfall. Make sure the boat includes chalecos salva vidas (life jackets) – child-sized, if required.
Hiking opportunities to haciendas, butterfly farms, waterfalls and even a Buddhist temple are possible through tour operators or self-guided (the most popular trail is ‘La Pena’ for lofty lake views); ask at the tourist information stand on the zócalo. Paragliding and parasailing are also popular.
zFestivals & Events
Festival de las AlmasCULTURAL
(hOct/Nov)
In late October or early November, the weeklong Festival de las Almas, an international arts and culture extravaganza, brings in music and dance troupes from all over Europe and Latin America.
4Sleeping
For a small town, this popular weekend escape from Mexico City has a good selection of budget posadas and midrange hotels. The most affordable, shabby options are within two blocks of the bus station. Camping and sleeping in huts is also possible; the tourist information stand on the zócalo has information.
oHotel San JoséHOTEL$
(%726-262-09-72; Callejón San José 103; d/tw/tr M$600/700/1350; W)
This converted ranch-style hotel is just a block from the zócalo, but hidden down an alley away from the noise, with a small terrace garden where you can admire the view of the hills. Huge rooms have extremely comfortable beds, and light-filled bathrooms with luxury trimmings – heavy shower curtains and plush bath rugs. Most have kitchenettes. The biggest steal in Valle.
oHotel San SebastianBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%726-688-50-15; hotel_sansebastian@outlook.es; San Sebastian 101, cnr Callejon Machinhuepa; d/tr/penthouse M$1000/1200/4000; aW)
Some of the best lake and terracotta-tile views are from the balcony of the small rooms at this fresh hotel. Bathrooms are modern and spotless and beds are very comfortable, making for a top romantic getaway, even for solo travelers. There is also room service from the adjacent restaurant. A penthouse sleeps six and has a kitchen and terrace.
Hotel CasanuevaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%726-262-17-66; Villagrán 100; d/tw/ste M$1000/1300/1700; W)
Set on the west side of the zócalo, the Casanueva has individually designed rooms decorated with tasteful arts and crafts. One of the most stylish options downtown, the hotel’s suite, which sleeps four, is especially lovely. Some rooms have private balconies over the square.
El SantuarioRESORT$$$
(%726-262-91-00; www.elsantuario.com; Carretera Colorines, San Gaspar; r from M$5570; paWs)
Twenty minutes northwest outside town, this gorgeous hillside hotel has an infinity pool, fountains, an in-house spa and rooms with magnificent lake views and personal mini-pools. There’s also a golf course, horse stables and a marina with sailboat rentals.
5Eating & Drinking
There are scores of restaurants and cafes along the wharf and around the zócalo, many of which only open Friday through Sunday. If there ever was a time to try esquite (lime and chili-flavored corn in a cup) from street stalls, this is it. Villagrán, on the west side of the zócalo, has very clean food stands. The trucha (trout) on most menus is farmed in the mountains, not from the lake.
La MichoacanaMEXICAN$$
(Calle de la Cruz 100; mains M$100-205; h8am-11pm; W)
A large restaurant with colorful indoor spaces and a great terrace with excellent wide-angled views of the town and lake. Mexican favorites include chicken mole, salmón en salsa de almendra (almond-sauce salmon) and lots of snacks and drinks to take it slowly. Waiters are eager to practice their English.
SoleadoFUSION$$
(%726-262-58-31; Pagaza 314; mains M$135-265; h1-10pm Sat-Thu, to midnight Fri, closed Mon; Wvc)
Soleado calls itself cocina del mundo and indeed there is a dish and a dessert from many a ‘kitchen of the world’ on offer. Admittedly, most dishes, from Indian curry to Italian veg lasagna, have a (tasty) Mexican twist. The low-lit restaurant with lofty views is a great place for groups, with dishes to please all tastes.
There are breakfasts with organic eggs, and a menu for kids.
Restaurante ParaísoSEAFOOD$$
(%726-262-47-31; Fray Gregorio Jiménez de la Cuenca s/n; mains M$75-160, set lunch M$140; h8am-10pm)
Restaurante Paraíso has fantastic lake views and a sprawling menu of seafood specialties, plus excellent and imaginatively prepared local trout. Come early and watch the sunset from the rooftop patio. A set lunch with fish options is good value.
LocaLCAFE
(%726-262-51-74; www.facebook.com/local.valledebravo; Calle 5 de Mayo 107; h9am-6:30pm; W
#)
LocaL tries to be a bit of everything – cafe, co-working space with free printing deals, a library with design and architecture books, roof terrace with nursery, and a small bakery with vegan items – but its most solid triumph is being the hippest place in Valle de Bravo.
8Information
There’s a tourist-info kiosk on the wharf and essential services, including ATMs and internet cafes, are found around the main plaza, a 10-minute walk uphill from the waterfront.
Tourist Information Stand (Bocanegra, cnr Independencia; h9am-5pm) At this stand on the zócalo, staff speak a bit of English, give directions and have free maps and tour brochures.
8Getting There & Away
Considering the hordes of tourists who descend on Valle each weekend, transportation options are relatively few. Most visitors are affluent Mexicans, who come by car.
Zina-bus (www.autobuseszinacantepec.com.mx) runs 1st-class directo buses from early morning to late afternoon between Mexico City’s Terminal Poniente and Valle de Bravo’s small bus terminal on Calle 16 de Septiembre (M$238, 2¼ hours, every one to two hours). For a scenic ride ask for the southern, ‘Los Saucos’ route, which travels along Hwy 134 and through a national park. If driving, that’s the route to take as well.
There is no direct bus between Malinalco and Valle de Bravo. You have to travel via Toluca (M$77, frequent) on a 2nd-class bus or via Mexico City.
Malinalco
%714 / Pop 7000 / Elev 1740m
Set in a valley of dramatic cliffs and ancient ruins, this pueblo mágico continues its transformation into the next Tepoztlán. Weekends see crowds, but still far fewer than those that descend on more easily accessible weekend escapes. The drive to Malinalco is one of the most enjoyable to be had in the area, with dramatic scenery lining the road south of Toluca.
There are a clutch of ‘hippie’ stores, a handful of international restaurants and a surprising number of boutique hotels. The town is far from fully developed, though, and it’s almost unnervingly quiet midweek, when it can still be a challenge to find a decent place to eat outside of the zócalo.
The village itself has a charming colonial core set around a well-preserved convent and two central plazas, which sit side by side.
1Sights
Aztec TemplesARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(Zona Arqueológica Cuauhtinchan; %722-215-85-69; Av Progreso s/n; M$55; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, last entry 4pm)
An invigorating 358-step hike up the mountainside above Malinalco takes you to one of the country’s few reasonably well-preserved temples (even surviving recent earthquakes), from where there are stunning views of the valley and beyond. The fascinating site includes El paraíso de los guerreros (a mural that once covered an entire wall), depicting fallen warriors becoming deities and living in paradise. From the main square follow signs to the zona arqueológica, taking you up the hillside on a well-maintained, signed footpath.
The Aztecs conquered the region in 1476 and were busy building a ritual center here when they were conquered by the Spanish. El Cuauhcalli (Temple of the Eagle and Jaguar Knight, where sons of Aztec nobles were initiated into warrior orders) survived because it was hewn from the mountainside itself. The entrance is carved in the form of a fanged serpent.
Temple IV, located on the far side of the site, continues to baffle archaeologists. As the room is positioned to allow the first rays of sunlight to hit it at dawn, there has been speculation that this place was part of a Mexican sun cult, a solar calendar or a meeting place for nobles – or some combination of these.
Situated near the site entrance, the Museo Universitario Dr Luis Mario Schneider explores the region’s history and archaeology in a beautiful, modern museum space.
Augustinian ConventCHURCH
(Convento Agustino de Malinalco; Morelos s/n, cnr Hidalgo; h9am-6pm)
A well-restored 16th-century convent, fronted by a tranquil tree-lined yard, faces the central plaza. Impressive frescoes fashioned from herb- and flower-based paint adorn its cloister.
TTours
Tour Gastronómico PrehispánicoFOOD & DRINK
(%cell 55-55091411; https://gastrotourprehispanicomalinalco.weebly.com; tours per person M$1200)
This pre-Hispanic food tour includes a visit to the market, a cooking class using traditional utensils and methods, and a three-course meal. Discounts for groups of over five people.
4Sleeping & Eating
This small town has an inordinate number of hotel rooms, but reservations remain a good idea. Because Malinalco is geared toward weekend visitors, you’ll have no trouble finding a room Sunday to Thursday night (often with a negotiable discount), though some of the nicer hotels aren’t open for walk-ins (or at all) midweek.
Perhaps surprisingly for such a small town, Malinalco has a few very good restaurants. Unfortunately for those visiting midweek, though, most of the better options (on Avenida Hidalgo and around the zócalo) are only open Thursday through Sunday. There is a small but well-stocked supermarket on the north east corner of the zócalo.
El AsoleaderoHOTEL$
(%714-147-01-84; Aldama, cnr Comercio; s/d M$600/700, r with kitchen M$800; pWs)
Just uphill from Malinalco’s main drag, El Asoleadero offers spacious, modern and airy rooms with stunning views of the pueblito and surrounding cliffs. You can enjoy the million-peso vista from the courtyard’s small pool with a cold beer from the lobby. Discounts of M$100 Sunday to Thursday.
oCasa NavacoyanBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%714-147-04-11; www.casanavacoyan.mx; Prolangación Calle Pirul 62; s/d/ste incl breakfast from M$2500/2700/3200; pWs)
This beautiful hotel on the outskirts of town has just six rooms, each decorated in a sort of upscale, home-style aesthetic, like staying at your wealthy aunt’s house in the country. The immaculately groomed yard is the real attraction, with palm trees, a gorgeous heated pool and views of Malinalco’s famed hills and cliffs.
Casa LimónBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%714-147-02-56; www.casalimon.com; Río Lerma 103; r/ste incl breakfast from M$2700/3100; pWs)
Surrounded by a stark high-desert landscape, this ultra-trendy hotel with bright fan-cooled rooms, a slate pool and intriguing artworks has a seductive indoor-outdoor bar and an elegant tree house–like restaurant (mains M$300). Pricey mains are classic international, from coq au vin to almond trout, and the wine list is superb. Limón can be fiendishly difficult to find in the poorly signposted backstreets.
oLos PlaceresINTERNATIONAL$$
(%714-147-08-55; https://losplaceresmalinalco.com; Plaza Principal s/n; mains M$85-190; h2-7pm Thu, to 10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; Wv)
This artsy garden restaurant on Malinalco’s zócalo serves international fare (Nicoise salad or chicken curry) alongside creative takes on traditional Mexican dishes, such as omelettes with poblano sauce, trout with ancho chilies or fondue al tequila. There are elaborate murals, tile-mosaic tabletops and the likes of Robert Johnson on the sound system.
Mari MaliMEXICAN$$
(%714-147-14-86; Av Juárez 4; menú del día M$80, mains M$90-165; h10am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; W)
The only casual, classy and clean place serving set-menu breakfasts and lunches midweek. Mexican classics such as enchiladas and pozole make it on the menu, as does mains of trucha (trout) complete with salad and rice. The fruit sellers outside are a colorful bonus.
El Puente de Má-LiINTERNATIONAL$$
(%714-147-01-29; Hidalgo 22; mains M$140-250; h1-6pm Sun-Tue & Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
After the tiny bridge as you leave the zócalo for the ruins, this atmospheric restaurant is set around a colonial dining room and a great back garden where you can try a selection of antojitos, pastas, soups and steaks.
8Information
Tourist Information Kiosk (%714-147-21-08; www.malinalco.net; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Tour brochures, a free map and help with accommodations. It’s at the north end of the zócalo.
8Getting There & Away
Águila (%800-224-84-52; www.autobusesaguila.com) runs two direct buses each afternoon (4:20pm and 6:20pm), with an additional service Saturday and Sunday (8:30am) from Mexico City’s Terminal Poniente (M$110, 2½ hours). If you can’t wait, Águila also runs every 20 minutes between Terminal Poniente and Chalma (M$115, 2½ hours), from where you can take a taxi (M$15, 15 minutes) to nearby Malinalco.
The direct Águila bus from Malinalco to Terminal Poniente only runs at 3:50am and 5:15am Monday to Friday and only at 5pm Saturday and Sunday, from outside the Santander bank on Hidalgo. To avoid the red-eye hours, take a taxi (M$15, 15 minutes) back to Chalma for Águila buses to Mexico City’s Terminal Poniente (M$115, 2½ hours, every 20 minutes). Águila buses do not have toilets on board.
From gate 6 of Toluca’s bus station, take a Flecha Roja bus to Tenango (M$44, 1½ hours, every 10 minutes), and from outside the Elektra store take a colectivo to Malinalco (M$22, 50 minutes).
Though the distances are short, traveling from Malinalco to Cuernavaca can take hours. It is, however, possible to hire a taxi (M$175, about one hour) and travel between the two towns via the incredibly scenic trip through Puente Caporal–Palpan–Miacatlán to the town of Alpuyeca, near the Xochicalco ruins. From there it’s easy to flag one of the frequent buses traveling along Hwy 95, and continue either north (to Cuernavaca and Mexico City) or south (to Taxco and the coast).