Barra de Potosí
%755 / Pop 396
The small fishing village of Barra de Potosí is about 26km southeast of Zihuatanejo. It’s located at the far tip of Playa Larga’s seemingly endless palm-fringed, sandy-white beach, and at the mouth of the brackish Laguna de Potosí, a saltwater lagoon about 6.5km long and home to hundreds of species of birds, including herons, kingfishers, cormorants and pelicans. The village is thankfully free of any resort hotels and makes for a marvelous wind-down stay in a friendly Mexican community.
1Sights
El Refugio de PotosíWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%cell 755-5572840; www.elrefugiodepotosi.org; Colonia Playa Blanca s/n) 
S
This nature center rehabilitates injured wildlife, breeds butterflies and parrots, and contributes to environmental education in the area. The grounds are home to macaws, iguanas and an impressive 18m sperm whale skeleton exhibit. Those interested in visiting may make arrangements by contacting the center via email. It’s just inland from the beachfront around 3.5km north of town.
TTours
Nearly every enramada (thatch-covered, open-air restaurant) in the pueblo – all of them fishing-family owned – offers 90-minute boat tours of the lagoon, where you can glimpse crocodiles for the standard M$300 price. Paradise Bird Tours (Eco Tours Cheli’s Oregón; %cell 755-1306829; www.facebook.com/araceli.oregonsalas; Barra de Potosí-Achotes s/n; birding M$350, snorkeling M$2000, fishing M$4500), based at Restaurante Rosita, is a good choice; its snorkeling trips include a buzz out to the impressive Morros de Potosí, a cluster of massive guano-covered rocks about 20 minutes offshore. Boats circle the Morros, affording views of the many seabirds that nest out there, before heading to nearby Playa Manzanillo, where the snorkeling is sublime.
4Sleeping & Eating
oCasa del EncantoB&B$$
(%cell 755-1246122; www.lacasadelencanto.com; Rodríguez s/n; d incl breakfast US$70-100; 
n
W) S
For bohemian charm and an intimate perspective on the community, nothing beats this magical space of brilliantly colored open-air rooms, hammocks, fountains and candlelit stairways. Owner Laura, a great resource for getting to know the town, has spent years organizing international volunteers to work with neighborhood children. The B&B is on a residential street about 300m inland from the beach. Rates are flexible off-season with good deals for longer stays. Adobe oven-baked pizzas with locally sourced ingredients might be on the menu in high season by the time you visit.
La CondesaSEAFOOD$$
(%cell 755-1203128; Barra de Potosí-Achotes s/n; mains M$80-140; 
h9am-6pm)
Northernmost of the beachfront enramadas, this is one of the best. Try its pescado a la talla (grilled fish) or tiritas (raw fish slivers marinated with red onion, lemon or lime and chili peppers), both local specialties, or munch on some tasty abulón (abalone) if it’s in season.
8Getting There & Away
By car from Zihuatanejo, drive southeast on Hwy 200 toward Acapulco, turn off at Los Achotes and drive another 9km to Barra de Potosí.
By public transportation, catch a Petatlán-bound bus from outside Zihua’s main terminals, or from the terminal near Zihua’s market. Tell the driver to let you off at the Barra de Potosí crucero (turnoff; M$19, 30 minutes), where you can catch a camioneta (pickup truck; M$15, 20 minutes) the rest of the way.
Colectivos also run directly from the Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo airport to Barra de Potosí (M$14, 30 minutes).
Soledad de Maciel
%758 / Pop 385
Known locally as ‘La Chole,’ the hamlet of Soledad de Maciel sits atop the largest, most important archaeological site in Guerrero state. Since excavations began in earnest in 2007, archaeologists have discovered a plaza, a ball court and three pyramids – one crowned by five temples – all left behind by pre-Hispanic cultures including Tepoztecos, Cuitlatecos and Tomiles. A museum houses three rooms full of artifacts and Spanish-language displays.
1Sights
Museo de Sitio XihuacanMUSEUM
(%cell 758-1043188; www.inah.gob.mx/es/red-de-museos/309-museo-de-sitio-de-la-zona-arqueologica-de-soledad-maciel-o-museo-de-sitio-xihuacan; turnoff Hwy 200 Km 214; suggested donation M$10, guided tour M$100; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Near the archaeological site of Soledad de Maciel, a museum houses three rooms full of Spanish-language displays, which place the local archaeological finds in a broader historical context. A recent find on display is a stone carved with a glyph of the name of the town in the late pre-Hispanic era: Xihuacan. Local guide Adán Velez found many of the artifacts on display in the museum.
8Getting There & Away
Soledad de Maciel is 33km southeast of Zihuatanejo off Hwy 200. From the well-marked turnoff near Km 214, a road leads 4km coastward to the museum, then continues another kilometer to the archaeological site and village.
Any bus heading south to Petatlán or Acapulco will get you here; ask to be dropped at the ‘La Chole’ intersection, where you can hop on a camioneta (pickup truck; M$10) into town.
Pie de la Cuesta
%744 / Pop 773
Just 10km from Acapulco is the tranquil seaside suburb of Pie de la Cuesta, a rustic beach town occupied by some terrific guesthouses and seafood restaurants. But it’s the odd combination of dramatic sunset views from the long beach and bloody sunrises over the lagoon that have made Pie de la Cuesta famous, for the town sits on a narrow strip of land bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the Laguna de Coyuca (where part of Rambo: First Blood Part II was filmed). The large freshwater lagoon contains several islands including Isla Pájaros, a bird sanctuary.
Pie de la Cuesta is much quieter, safer, cheaper and closer to nature than Acapulco, but still close enough for those who want to enjoy the city’s attractions and nightlife.
2Activities
The rugged, steep shore break is better for bodyboarders, but big December swells get over3m and attract surfers. The riptide and strong waves make it sometimes dangerous for swimmers.
Horseback riding on the beach costs about M$200 per hour. Book through your hotel or directly from galloping gauchos.
Water Sports
Waterskiing and wakeboarding on the lagoon are both popular pastimes; there are several waterskiing clubs along the main road, all charging around M$900 to M$1000 per hour, including Club de Ski Cadena.
Several establishments offer boat trips on the lagoon and eager captains await your business along the main road and down by the boat launches at the lagoon’s southeast corner.
Club de Ski CadenaWATER SPORTS
(%cell 744-1598503; clubdeskicadena@gmail.com; Av Fuerza Aérea Mexicana s/n; tours per hour M$900)
Does waterskiing and wakeboarding outings as well as a boat tour of the lagoon, which stops at two islands. The English-speaking owner Fernando knows a lot about the area’s bird species and he also rents out decent budget rooms (M$600 to M$800) with sundecks right on the lagoon. Cadena is a much friendlier operation than the competition next door.
4Sleeping
BaxarBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%744-460-25-02; www.baxar.com.mx; Av Fuerza Aérea Mexicana 356; r M$1533, ste M$2624-3060, all incl breakfast; 
pn
aW
s)
Trimmed in pink and exuding barefoot style, this is a popular and likable weekend getaway. Its cute rooms include sunken sitting areas, tastefully dangling rattan lampshades, mosquito nets and other sweet little details. Rates include use of kayaks, and paddleboards are available for rent.
Quinta ErikaB&B$$
(%744-444-41-31; www.quintaerika.com; Carretera Barra de Coyuca Km 8.5; d/bungalows incl breakfast US$55/120; pnWs; 
gPlaya Luces)
A hidden, jungle-like retreat located 8km west of the highway junction. Six colorful rooms and one bungalow are tastefully decorated with handmade furniture and traditional handicrafts. It sits on two hectares of lagoonside property, lovingly landscaped with palm and tropical fruit trees. Other perks include kayaks, a whimsically decorated pool, a dock boasting lagoon views, and an upstairs lounge. It’s about a kilometer beyond the final bus stop in Playa Luces.
Hacienda Vayma Beach ClubHOTEL$$
(%744-460-28-82; www.vayma.com.mx; Av Fuerza Aérea Mexicana 378; r M$1102-1218, ste M$2320; pnaWs)
This relaxing ranch-style hotel is handsome in white and dark wood. It has a patch of beach with private cabañas (cabins) and double-width lounge chairs, a big pool with swim-up bar and a choice of room types, from rustic beach-town digs to suites with air-con and Jacuzzi. Nonguests may visit the bar here, which is open until 11pm on weekend nights.
A&V Hotel BoutiqueBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%744-444-43-29; www.avhotelboutique.com; Av Fuerza Aérea Mexicana Km 6.2, Colonia Luces en el Mar; r M$1600-2400; naWs; gPlaya Luces)
Each of the ultra-comfortable 11 rooms in this hotel incorporates earthy design elements, such as palm-leaf wall paneling, rattan lampshades and pine-wood flooring. Most come with private balconies overlooking a free-form pool and on-site restaurant, which is worth visiting even if you’re not staying at the hotel.
5Eating
A long string of beachside eateries means that finding a cold beer and shrimp cocktail presents zero difficulty.
ChepinaSEAFOOD$$
(%744-460-25-02; www.baxar.com.mx; Av Fuerza Aérea Mexicana 356; mains M$80-200; h8am-10pm; W)
This bistro on the beach, coated in hot pink, serves standards such as ceviche, cócteles (cocktails) and fish tacos; it also folds shrimp with sautéed vegetables into grilled flour taquitos (crisp-fried, filled tortilla rolls). All of it is done with flair and flavor. It’s in the Baxar hotel.
Mar de FondoFUSION$$$
(%744-444-43-29; www.avhotelboutique.com; Av Fuerza Aérea Mexicana Km 6.2, Colonia Luces en el Mar; mains M$180-240; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun; p; gPlaya Luces)
Tired of the fish and seafood routine? Hit this restaurant in A&V Hotel Boutique, where you can order handmade pasta and lasagna, regional Oaxacan cuisine and sweet treats including apple strudel. There’s also a variety of fish dishes that you won’t find elsewhere in town, and the same can be said for the restaurant-bar’s cocktails.
8Information
Pie de la Cuesta is strung out along the long main road (known both as Avenida Fuerza Aérea Mexicana and Calzada Pie de la Cuesta) that runs between the lagoon and beach, past an air force base and on to Playa Luces.
8Getting There & Away
From Acapulco, catch a ‘Pie de la Cuesta’ bus on Avenida Costera across the street from the post office. Buses depart every 15 minutes from 6am until 9pm; the trip costs M$8 and takes 30 to 90 minutes, depending on traffic – on a bad day, it can be total gridlock.
Buses marked ‘Pie de la Cuesta–San Isidro’ or ‘Pie de la Cuesta–Pedregoso’ stop at the town’s arched entryway on Hwy 200, leaving you with a short walk into town; more convenient ‘Pie de la Cuesta–Playa Luces’ buses turn off the main highway and follow Pie de la Cuesta’s main street through town to Playa Luces.
A regular taxi from Acapulco costs M$200 to M$400, depending on your negotiating skills.
Acapulco
%744 / Pop 789,971
Acapulco, Mexico’s original party town, has a stunning topography of soaring cliffs curling into a series of wide bays and intimate coves, fringed with sandy beaches and backed by jungle-green hills. It was dubbed the ‘Pearl of the Pacific’ during its heyday as a playground for the rich and famous, including Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley and Elizabeth Taylor.
Acapulco remains gorgeous, though overdeveloped. The city’s reputation has been tarnished by years of violent battles in Mexico’s ongoing drug wars. Despite frightening homicide statistics, the violence is largely confined to gang disputes. International tourism has plummeted, but the city remains comparatively safe to visit. It still offers atmosphere and charm, with romantic cliffside restaurants, an impressive 17th-century fort, a world-class botanical garden, cliff divers and the old town’s shady zócalo (main square). When you tire of the crowds, secluded beaches such as Pie de la Cuesta are a short trip away.
8Orientation
Acapulco follows the 11km shore of the Bahía de Acapulco (Acapulco Bay). Old Acapulco, centered on the cathedral and adjacent zócalo, is the western part of the city; Acapulco Dorado heads east around the bay from Playa Hornos to Playa Icacos. Acapulco Diamante is a newer luxury resort area southeast of Acapulco proper, near the airport.
Acapulco’s principal bayside avenue, Avenida Costera Miguel Alemán – often called ‘La Costera’ – hugs the shoreline all the way around the bay. Past the naval base, Avenida Costera becomes Carretera Escénica and climbs over the headland toward Diamante and the airport.
1Sights
Most of Acapulco’s hotels, restaurants, discos and points of interest are along or near Avenida Costera, especially near its midpoint at La Diana (map Google map Av Costera s/n) traffic circle. From Playa Caleta on the Península de las Playas, it curves north toward the zócalo, then continues east along the beachfront past Parque Papagayo – a large, shady park popular with Mexican families – all the way to Playa Icacos and the naval base at the bay’s southeastern edge.
oClavadistas de la QuebradaVIEWPOINT
(map Google map %744-483-14-00; cpqaca@prodigy.net.mx; Plazoleta La Quebrada s/n; adult/child M$40/15; hshows 1pm, 7:30pm, 8:30pm, 9:30pm & 10:30pm; gCaleta)
Acapulco’s most famous tourist attraction, the cliff divers of La Quebrada have been dazzling audiences since 1934, plunging with fearless finesse from heights of 25m to 35m into the narrow ocean cove below. Expect to see around six divers; the spectacle lasts for about 20 minutes. The last show features divers holding torches. For good road karma, tip the divers on your way out. La Perla restaurant-bar provides a great (but pricey) view of the divers from above.
oExekatlkalliPUBLIC ART
(map Google map House of the Winds; Inalámbrica 8; gCaleta)
While the famed Mexican art collector Dolores ‘Lola’ Olmedo was away on vacation in 1956, a dying Diego Rivera decided to pep up the entrance to the villa of his friend, muse and love object with spectacular serpentine mosaic murals. They are quite an unexpected sight on this quiet hillside street. Plans have long been in the works to convert the house and studio into a cultural center/museum, but to no avail so far.
La Capilla de la PazCHAPEL
(Chapel of Peace; %744-446-54-58; Vientos Cardinales s/n, Alto Las Brisas; h10am-6pm) 
F
Perched on a hilltop high above Acapulco is this quiet spot for reflection, an airy ’70s A-frame chapel surrounded by lovely gardens and providing stunning ocean views. Despite the giant white cross that can be seen from miles away, it was built as a non-denominational chapel to welcome people of all faiths – the garden’s sculpture of clasped hands perhaps better captures that spirit. Access is via a gated compound: you may have to leave ID at the gate.
Fuerte de San DiegoFORTRESS
(map Google map %744-482-38-28; www.facebook.com/museohistoricodeacapulcofuertedesandiego; Hornitos s/n) F
This beautifully restored pentagonal fort was built in 1616 atop a hill east of the zócalo. Its mission was to protect the Spanish naos (galleons) conducting trade between the Philippines and Mexico from marauding Dutch and English buccaneers. The fort was destroyed in a 1776 earthquake and rebuilt. It remains basically unchanged today. The fort is home to the excellent Museo Histórico de Acapulco (map Google map %744-482-38-28; www.facebook.com/museohistoricodeacapulcofuertedesandiego; Hornitos s/n; M$55; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; p).
Parque PapagayoPARK
(map Google map %744-486-14-14; www.facebook.com/parquepapagayoacapulcoepbs; Morín 1; h6am-8pm; p) F
This large shaded children’s park, between Morín and El Cano near Playa Hornitos, is popular with Mexican families. Attractions include a lake with paddleboats, a children’s train, a bar-restaurant, an aviary, a small zoo and a petting zoo. The 1.2km circuit trail is a good place for a morning jog.
Isla de la RoquetaISLAND
(%755-410-97-07; www.yatesdeacapulco.com; round-trip boat fare M$50, glass-bottom boat M$90)
This island offers a popular (crowded) beach, and snorkeling and diving possibilities. You can rent snorkeling gear, kayaks and more. From Playa Caleta, boats make the eight-minute trip regularly. Alternatively, glass-bottomed boats (by the company Yates Fondo Cristal) make a circuitous trip from here or the zócalo, pointing out celebrity dwellings, sea life and the Virgen de los Mares, a submerged bronze Virgin statue. The trip takes about 45 minutes, depending on how many times floating vendors approach your boat.
Jardín Botánico de AcapulcoGARDENS
(map %744-446-52-52; www.acapulcobotanico.org; Av Heróico Colegio Militar s/n, Cumbres de Llano Largo; adult/child M$30/free, free Sun, guided visit per person M$50; h9am-6pm)
Located on the campus of a Jesuit university, these botanical gardens house an impressive collection of flora and fauna. The well-marked footpath climbs from 204m to 411m above sea level through a shaded tropical forest, with plenty of benches to stop and smell the flowers at. It’s 1.2km from the main road between Acapulco and Diamante; shared cabs marked ‘Base–Cumbres’ depart from the Icacos Naval Base and drop you right outside the gardens.
ZócaloPLAZA
(map Google map cnr Av Costera & Madero)
Every night Acapulco’s leafy old town zócalo comes alive with street performers, mariachis and sidewalk cafes; it also hosts occasional festivals. It’s especially popular with multiple generations of Mexican families on Sunday nights. The Nuestra Señora de la Soledad Cathedral (map Google map %744-483-05-63; www.facebook.com/catedral.soledad; Hidalgo s/n; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 6:30am-9pm Sun) F, built in 1930, dominates the square and is unusual for its blue-domed, neo-Byzantine architecture.
Sinfonía del MarVIEWPOINT
(Symphony of the Sea; map Av López Mateos s/n)
The magical Sinfonía del Mar is an outdoor stepped plaza that occasionally hosts concerts, but mainly serves as an amazing place to view sunsets.
Beaches
Acapulco’s beaches top the list of must-dos for most visitors. The beaches heading east around the bay from the zócalo – Playa Hornos (map Google map), Playa Hornitos (map Google map), Playa Condesa (map Google map) and Playa Icacos (map Google map) – are the most popular, though the west end of Hornos sometimes smells of fish from the morning catch. The high-rise hotel district begins on Playa Hornitos, on the east side of Parque Papagayo, and sweeps east. City buses constantly ply Avenida Costera, making it easy to get up and down the long arc of beaches.
Playas Caleta and Caletilla (map gCaleta) are two small beaches on the south side of Península de las Playas. The calm waters make for safe swimming, but the immensely popular location draws throngs of family vacationers, especially in July and August and during the busy winter holiday season. From the city center along Avenida Costera, buses marked ‘Caleta’ arrive here. Boats to Isla de la Roqueta depart from a small dock.
Playa La Angosta (map Google map gCaleta), a protected cove about 1.5km southwest of the zócalo, is reachable by walking from the main plaza; alternatively, a ‘Caleta’ bus will leave you one block from the beach. Locals visit La Angosta for its palapa seafood restaurants.
A scenic drive heading southeast of the city center along the jungle-backed Hwy 200 affords spectacular views of the Acapulco Bay before a turnoff descends to the beaches on Bahía Puerto Marqués, where you can get in some waterskiing and swimming on the bay’s calm waters. For public transportation, take a frequent Puerto Marqués bus along Avenida Costera.
About 3km south of Puerto Marqués, rougher waters await at Playa Revolcadero, a popular surf spot but somewhat dangerous option for swimming. The long beach has seen a development boom in recent years, but it’s still possible to find quiet stretches of sand.
The two beaches closest to Old Acapulco are Playa Tlacopanocha (map Google map) – not known as a swimming spot – and Playa Manzanillo (map Google map), a small beach where you can take a dip; note that the water quality isn’t so great.
2Activities
Acapulco’s activities are largely beach-based.
Cruises
Various boats and yachts offer cruises around the bay. Most depart from Playa Tlacopanocha or Playa Manzanillo near the zócalo. Cruises are available day and night. Vessels range from glass-bottomed boats to multilevel craft (with blaring salsa music and open bars) to yachts offering quiet sunset cruises. Make reservations at the marina or through travel agencies, tour kiosks and most hotels. Acapulco has seen a decline in cruise ship (map %744-434-17-10; www.apiacapulcoport.com; Av Costera s/n) activity due to security concerns.
AcareyCRUISE
(map Google map %744-100-36-37; www.acarey.com.mx; Av Costera s/n; adult/child under 10yr M$310/free; hcruises 4:30pm & 10:30pm daily, plus 7:30pm Sat)
This popular boat cruise is sold by nearly every kiosk and agency in town, plus at the booth by the dock across from the zócalo. All departures have an open bar and live music. The 4:30pm sunset outing gives a decent tour of the bay, while the night cruise is more of a fiesta. Trips last 2½ hours.
Golf
Club de Golf AcapulcoGOLF
(map Google map %744-484-07-81; clubgolf@prodigy.net.mx; Av Costera s/n; green fees 9/18 holes M$600/800; h7am-5pm)
Just back from the beach, this nine-holer is a simple but central course. Green fees include cart. You can repeat the front nine holes to play 18.
Sportfishing
Sportfishing is very popular, especially during the winter months when you can catch marlin and yellowfin tuna.
Blue Water SportfishingFISHING
(map Google map %cell 744-4282279; www.acavio.com/aventura.html; Pinzona 163; fishing charters US$250-390)
Fun and friendly fishing setup that will pick you up from the pier at the zócalo. Price varies according to boat size.
Water Sports
Just about everything that can be done on or below the water is done in Acapulco. Waterskiing, boating, banana-boating and parasailing are all popular. Outfitters, based in kiosks along the Zona Dorada beaches, charge about M$500 for a five-minute parasailing flight, and M$1500 per boat for for one hour of waterskiing, jet-skiing or wakeboarding. The smaller Playas Caleta and Caletilla have sailboats, fishing boats, motorboats, pedal boats, canoes and snorkeling gear for rent. Though Acapulco isn’t really a scuba destination, there are some decent dive sites nearby.
The best snorkeling is off small Playa Las Palmitas on Isla de la Roqueta. Unless you pony up for an organized snorkeling trip, you’ll need to scramble over rocks to reach it. You can rent gear on the island or on Playas Caleta and Caletilla, which also have some decent spots.
Acapulco Scuba CenterDIVING
(map %744-482-94-74; www.acapulcoscuba.com; Av Costera 215, Club Náutico La Marina Acapulco; 2-tank dive M$1100, snorkeling M$500; h8am-4pm Wed-Mon)
One of a few diving operators that can take you out on boat dives in the bay. Offers PADI and SSI certification. Snorkeling trips to Isla de la Roqueta are also available.
Swiss Divers AssociationDIVING
(map %744-482-13-57; www.swissdivers.com; Cerro San Martín 325, Hotel Caleta; 2-tank boat dive US$80, snorkeling US$40; h9am-5pm Thu-Tue)
This experienced setup offers a wide range of dives and PADI courses. Its office, tucked above wave-lashed rocks amid the semi-ruined splendor of the Hotel Caleta, is worth a look in itself. Snorkeling trips also available.
zFestivals & Events
FAcapulcoestival FrancésCULTURAL
(www.festivalfrances.com; hMar or Apr)
The French Festival, usually held in March or April, celebrates French food, cinema, music and literature.
4Sleeping
Acapulco has tens of thousands of hotel rooms. Most of Acapulco’s budget hotels are concentrated around the zócalo. The original high-rise zone stretches from the eastern end of Parque Papagayo and curves east around the bay; other luxury strips are southeast of town near the airport.
Hotel Márquez del SolHOTEL$
(map Google map %744-484-77-60; hotelmarquezdelsol@hotmail.com; Juan de la Cosa 22; r M$600; naWs)
This budget hotel is close to the beach but just far enough away from the main road to be peaceful at night. Decor is bland, but rooms are spacious and clean enough, though bathrooms are tight; many rooms have balconies. The hotel has little charm, but offers value for its location in the heart of the zone.
Hotel NiloHOTEL$$
(map Google map %744-484-10-99; www.hotelnilo.mx; Calle 4 No 105; d/q M$1300/1500; pnaWs)
Occupying the same price band as a whole swath of Acapulco hotels, but about 40 years newer than most of them, this likable place a block back from the strip is in the pleasant eastern end of town and amiably run. Rooms are compact but comfy and modern – that includes the bathrooms. There’s a pool on the top floor.
Etel SuitesHOTEL$$
(map Google map %744-482-22-40; www.facebook.com/hoteletelsuites; Av Pinzona 92; r M$600-900, apt M$1500; pnaWs; gCaleta)
High above Old Acapulco, with views of both the bay and the Pacific Ocean, this hotel has modest but well-kept rooms in a very quiet part of town. Management is benevolent, and the terraces offer outrageous city vistas. Mid-century modernists will love the apartments’ dated furnishings, while families will appreciate the children’s play area and accommodating rooms.
Hotel Acapulco MalibuHOTEL$$
(map Google map %744-484-10-70; www.acapulcomalibu.com; Av Costera 20; r from M$1415; pnaWs)
It’s always nice to see a bit of originality, and the octagonal rooms here fit the bill. Compact and rather charming, they sport a small balcony, surround a creeper-draped atrium and make a fine beach base – or you could go for a dip in the pool instead, also an eight-sided job.
Bali-HaiMOTEL$$
(map Google map %744-485-66-22; www.balihai.com.mx; Av Costera 186; r from M$1071; pnaWs)
This Polynesian-themed motel in the heart of Bahía de Acapulco, across the street from the beach, looks a little downbeat, but has secure parking and long rows of spacious rooms flanking a pair of palm-lined pools. Upgrading to a pricier ‘superior’ room offers little in return.
Hotel Los FlamingosHOTEL$$
(map %744-482-06-91; www.hotellosflamingos.com.mx; Av López Mateos s/n; d/superior d/junior ste M$714/833/952; pnaWs)
This affordable hotel with a million-dollar view, once owned by Johnny ‘Tarzan’ Weissmuller, John Wayne and their pals, is a living, hot-pink memory of Acapulco’s heyday. Perched on a cliff 135m above the ocean, this classic boasts one of the finest sunset views in town, with hammocks to enjoy them from, and a popular bar and restaurant.
Images of Hollywood’s Golden Age grace the walls. The rooms are modest, if aged, but comfortable enough. It’s well worth the upgrade to the ‘junior suites,’ which are significantly larger, air-conditioned and have a balcony.
Hotel MarzolHOTEL$$
(map Google map %744-484-33-96; www.hotelmarzolacapulco.com; Av Francia 1A; r M$1000; naWs)
Tucked down a narrow street leading to the beach and dwarfed by huge high-rises, this more modest construction is a polished if unremarkable three-star choice. Rooms have high-end tiled floors, dark wood furnishings and thin, hard-ish beds. It makes a clean, reliable base.
oPier d LunaB&B$$$
(map %744-480-10-18, cell 744-1792072; www.pdluna.wix.com/pier-d-luna; Casa No 2, Gran Vía Tropical 34; r incl breakfast US$119-153; pnaWs)
This tucked-away retreat has a view so good that the enormous lounge and dining room, complete with baby grand, is wholly open-sided: what a marvelous space it is. Five sweet rooms, all with individual designs, enjoy the same outlook; some have balconies to soak it all up. Hospitable hosts make this a delightful personal experience and breakfasts are abundant.
There’s a pleasant pool and Jacuzzi upstairs and a great saltwater pool on the bay, to which you can descend via private stairs. Delicious chef-cooked French-Mexican meals are available by arrangement. Pay attention to the directions you’ll be sent, as there are no signs. Reserve ahead.
Hotel ElcanoHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %744-435-15-00; www.hotelelcano.com.mx; Av Costera 75; d M$1100-1800; pna
iWs)
Near the center of Acapulco’s crescent of beaches, the pleasantly retro Elcano has old-school grace, with art deco tiles in the breezy lobby, a sumptuous pool area and a patch of beachfront. There’s a maritime theme accentuated by the white-and-blue paint job. Rooms are bright and most come with private terraces offering commanding ocean views. Low-season discounts are a steal.
Banyan Tree Cabo MarquésRESORT$$$
(%744-434-01-00; www.banyantree.com; Blvd Cabo Marqués s/n, Punta Diamante; r from US$735; pnaiWs)
Over the ocean on a gated peninsula, 20km south of downtown, this gorgeous resort brings Asia to Acapulco. Sumptuous villas offer complete privacy to enjoy your hammock, deck and pool with vast vistas. Villas are equipped with a stylish range of robes, toiletries and thoughtful extras; in-room dining is available. Golf carts zip you around the charming facilities.
Highlights of the complex include a Thai restaurant, private massage rooms with view and a stunning infinity pool. An army of helpful staff keeps things very slick. For an utterly peaceful resort experience away from the crowds, this is hard to beat.
5Eating
Lots of restaurants are dotted along the coastal strip, from Playa Icacos to the old town, where you’ll find many traditional eateries. On Thursdays, pozole (hominy stew) is typically served, and restaurants get lively with groups eating this (and other traditional food such as tamales) while listening to folkloric music.
El NopalitoCAFE$
(map Google map La Paz 230; mains M$50-120, set menu M$60; h8am-8pm)
This darkish, keep-it-real eatery attracts people for its daily menu, which includes mole verde (green chili sauce dish) on Thursdays and Sundays. The set menu lunch includes fruit, juice or coffee and a main such as roast chicken, beef enchilada, carne asada (marinated grilled beef) or fried fish, served with nopales (cactus paddles) and tortillas. It’s one of several cafes and diners strung along the streets surrounding the zócalo.
oPaititi del MarSEAFOOD$$
(%744-480-00-31; www.facebook.com/paititidelmar; Zaragoza 6, La Poza; mains M$140-220; h8am-7pm Fri-Wed; gColoso)
Set in a tropical garden under a palapa, this inland seafood restaurant prepares dishes that put most of Acapulco’s beachside eateries to shame. The ceviche paraiso is a flavor explosion of fresh tuna, mango, ginger, strawberry and habanero; order it with a refreshing cucumber-lime water. For the main course, the grilled or ajillo-style octopus draws high praise.
‘Coloso’ buses, which can be picked up along Avenida Costera anywhere south of the Hwy 200 turnoff, stop about 2km north of the restaurant on Bulevar de las Naciones.
oLa Casa de TereMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %744-485-77-35; www.facebook.com/lacasadetereacapulco; Martín 1721; mains M$70-225; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun; W)
This homespun gem near the Estrella de Oro bus terminal is the place to go for Thursday pozole verde (green hominy stew). Founded on doña Tere’s patio in 1990 using her mother Clarita’s traditional recipes, it serves a wide-ranging menu, including the sought-after Sunday special: barbacoa de carnero (slow-cooked lamb). All of it comes with house-made tortillas.
El JacalitoMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %744-486-65-12; Gonzalo de Sandoval 26; mains M$55-195; h8am-11pm; W)
Just off the strip and a few paces from the beach, this thatched restaurant can nevertheless have a secluded vibe. It feels very authentic, with its traditional checked tablecloths and cordial staff, and the food backs it up. Great rolled chicken tacos, delicious frijoles (beans), affordable fish dishes and filling breakfasts make it an oasis at any time of day.
La Cabaña de CaletaSEAFOOD$$
(map %744-482-50-07; www.lacabanadecaleta.com; Playa Caleta; mains M$80-250; h9am-9pm; W; gCaleta)
Step back in time and into a slice of traditional Mexican beach life, c 1950, at this venerable, unpretentious seafood palapa straddling the sands of Playa Caleta. Bask under a blue umbrella and gaze at the bay while savoring specialties such as cazuela de mariscos (seafood stew) or grilled whole fish.
El CabritoMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %744-484-77-11; www.elcabrito-acapulco.com; Av Costera 1480; mains M$85-255; h2-11pm Mon-Sat, 1:30-10:30pm Sun; W)
This beloved and brightly decorated restaurant has some of the city’s finest traditional Mexican food, such as Oaxaca-style black mole (a type of chili sauce) made from 32 ingredients. You’d also do quite well with cabrito al pastor (roast kid goat); eat it with your fingers, say the staff. The shrimp dishes are tasty, as are the house-made tortillas.
Pipo’sSEAFOOD$$$
(map Google map %744-188-10-05; www.facebook.com/mariscospiposacapulco; Av Costera 105; mains M$150-270; hnoon-11pm)
Famous for its pescado almendrado (mahimahi baked in a creamy Parmesan sauce with almonds), Pipo’s is best after 6pm when the restaurant opens its airy terrace upstairs, offering a bird’s-eye view of the carmageddon scene unfolding along the Costera. Pipo’s began as a small ceviche stand seven decades ago and has become an Acapulco institution.
El GauchoPARRILLA$$$
(map Google map %744-435-63-00; www.facebook.com/elgauchoacapulcomexico; Av Costera 8, Hotel Presidente; pasta M$89-120, mains M$325-545; h2pm-midnight; W)
This glass-box dining room leaves a little to be desired in terms of atmosphere, but it does do an excellent steak. Less carnivorous folk can choose from an assortment of pasta dishes or tasty grilled provolone cheese. Argentine trios play on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The strip of huge outdoor/indoor bars around the landmark Paradise Bungy (map Google map %744-484-75-29; www.facebook.com/paradisebungyacaoficial; Av Costera 101; M$600; h5pm-12:30am Tue-Thu, 3pm-2am Fri & Sat, 3-11pm Sun) tower is lively from early evening until late, with drinks promos, go-go dancers and other revelry.
Most clubs don’t get rolling until midnight or later. Admission charges vary by season and night. Dress to impress; shorts and sneakers are frowned upon.
oBar Los FlamingosBAR
(map %744-483-98-06; www.hotelflamingosacapulco.com; Av López Mateos s/n; h10am-10pm; W)
The clifftop bar of Hotel Los Flamingos is old-school impeccable and the best sundowner spot in Acapulco, thanks to its famed menu of signature cocktails, including Cocos Locos (made with rum, tequila, pineapple juice and coconut crème). The restaurant offers a traditional menu, and pozole (hominy stew) Thursday is a beloved local lunch tradition: reserve ahead.
MojitoBAR, CLUB
(map Google map %744-484-82-74; www.facebook.com/mojitoaca; Av Costera s/n; h10am-4pm Thu-Sat; W)
If you prefer salsa and cumbia (dance music originating from Colombia) to reggaeton or techno, this should be your go-to option on the Acapulco strip. The popular club looks out over the ocean and gets lively with Latin beats and drinks until late. There’s a good range of ages dancing to the live Cuban group.
PalladiumCLUB
(map %744-446-54-90; www.palladium.com.mx; Carretera Escénica s/n; admission varies; h11pm-6am Fri & Sat; W)
The best nightclub in town, Palladium attracts a young crowd and offers fabulous bay views from floor-to-ceiling windows. An international cast of DJs pumps out hip-hop, house, trance and techno from an ultraluxe sound system. Dress up, and expect to wait in line. Admission is pricey but usually includes unlimited drinks.
MezcalinaBAR
(map Google map %744-481-15-90; www.facebook.com/mezcalinaacapulco; Av Costera 3007; h8pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri-Sun; W)
This ain’t your typical mezcal joint (unless dancing to loud reggaeton music is a new trend taking over mezcalerías), but it’s easy enough to join the party while sipping on a smoky Danzantes or Bruxo.
Demás FactoryGAY
(map Google map www.facebook.com/demasfactory; Av de los Deportes 10A; h10pm-7am Wed-Sun; W)
The city’s longest-running gay club is mixed but draws a mostly male clientele. There are shows on weekend nights and M$250 gets you all you can drink on Saturdays.
3Entertainment
Forum Mundo ImperialCONCERT VENUE
(%744-435-17-00; www.forumimperial.com; Blvd de las Naciones s/n, Acapulco Diamante)
7Shopping
La EuropeaALCOHOL
(map Google map %744-484-80-43; www.laeuropea.com.mx; Av Costera 2908; h10am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)
Stocks a good selection of mezcals and tequilas, such as Pierde Almas and 7 Leguas.
Mercado de Artesanías El ParazalMARKET
(map Google map cnr Parana & Velázquez de Leon; hmany shops 10am-7pm)
Bargaining is the standard at this leafy and laid-back craft market, one of several handicraft markets around town. Here you’ll find better deals on everything that you see in the hotel shops, including hammocks, jewelry, ceramics, lacquer work, T-shirts and other clothing.
Mercado CentralMARKET
(map Google map Hurtado de Mendoza s/n; h7am-6pm)
This sprawling indoor-outdoor bazaar has everything from atoles (corn-based drinks) to zapatos (shoes), plus produce, hot food and souvenirs. Any westbound ‘Pie de la Cuesta’ or ‘Pedregoso’ bus will drop you here.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
At the time of writing, Acapulco ranked second in the world for homicides per capita, but residents rightly claim that this doesn’t reflect the reality for visitors. The vast majority of violent incidents are score-settling assassinations between members of rival drug gangs. That said, though protecting the downtown areas is an absolute priority for the city, tourists have occasionally been targeted in isolated incidents or caught in the cross fire. Acapulco isn’t necessarily a dangerous place to visit, but, as with most Mexican cities, we advise caution with personal possessions, exploring unfamiliar areas and taking taxis late at night.
EMERGENCY
Tourist Police (%744-485-04-90)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Magallanes (%744-469-02-70; www.hospitalprivadomagallanes.com; Massieu 2) A well-established private hospital with English-speaking doctors and staff.
MONEY
Banks and casas de cambio (currency exchanges) cluster around the zócalo and line Avenida Costera. Hotels will also change money, but their rates usually stink.
POST
Main Post Office (map %744-483-24-05; www.correosdemexico.com.mx; Av Costera 315, Palacio Federal; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
TOURIST INFORMATION
CAPTA (Tourist Infomation and Assistance; map %744-481-18-54; www.acapulco.gob.mx/capta/; Av Costera 38A; hoffice 9am-9pm) Office and 24-hour hotline for tourist information and assistance with problems.
The city government operates several tourist information kiosks that aren’t particularly helpful. They are located on the marina (map %744-481-18-54; www.acapulco.gob.mx/capta; Av Costera s/n; h9am-6pm) across from the zócalo, at La Diana traffic circle (map %744-481-18-54; www.acapulco.gob.mx/capta; Av Costera s/n; h9am-6pm), at Playa Caleta (map %744-481-18-54; www.acapulco.gob.mx/capta; h9am-6pm) and by the entrance to Walmart (map %744-481-18-54; www.acapulco.gob.mx/capta; Horacio Nelson s/n; h9am-6pm) near Playa Icacos.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Acapulco’s airport (Juan Álvarez International Airport; %744-435-20-60; www.oma.aero/es/aeropuertos/acapulco; Blvd de las Naciones s/n) has seen a marked decrease in international nonstop flights, although it’s still easy to connect through Mexico City (a short hop from Acapulco). Airlines have offices at the airport; there are a couple of direct flights from the USA and Canada.
The following domestic destinations are serviced by these airlines:
A Guadalajara – TAR
A Mexico City – Aeromar, Aeroméxico, Interjet, Volaris
A Monterrey – VivaAerobús, Volaris
A Queretaro – TAR
A Tijuana – Interjet, Volaris
A Toluca – Interjet
Acapulco has four bus terminals. Fortunately, the two major ones are quite close together. There’s also a bus station in the Acapulco Diamante resort area.
Central Ejido (map %744-469-20-30; Av Ejido 47) This bus terminal mostly serves departures to destinations in Guerrero and Oaxaca states, run by the AltaMar/Costeños group. Estrella de Oro services to Zihuatanejo also stop here on their way north.
Central Papagayo (Estrella Blanca Terminal; map %800-507-55-00; www.estrellablanca.com.mx; Av Cuauhtémoc 1605) Just north of Parque Papagayo, this modern terminal has 1st-class and luxury services all around the country run by Estrella Blanca and its affiliates. Left luggage is available, but eating options are weak.
Estrella de Oro Bus Terminal (Central Cuauhtémoc; map %800-900-01-05; www.estrelladeoro.com.mx; Av Cuauhtémoc 1490) All Estrella de Oro (EDO) services leave from this modern, air-conditioned terminal, which has several ATMs and left-luggage facilities.
Terminal Centro (map %800-003-76-35; Av Cuauhtémoc 97) First- and 2nd-class departures to relatively nearby towns, though some services to Mexico City stop here too.
BUSES FROM ACAPULCO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chilpancingo | 66-128 | 1½-2½ | frequent Centro, EDO, Ejido & Papagayo |
| Cuernavaca | 414-533 | 4-5 | 4 EDO, 6 Papagayo |
| Mazatlán | 1500-1830 | 19-21 | 3 Papagayo |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 507-667 | 6 | frequent Centro, EDO & Papagayo |
| Mexico City (Terminal Sur) | 525-690 | 5-6 | frequent Centro, EDO & Papagayo |
| Puerto Escondido | 466 | 8-9 | 7 Centro, 7 Ejido |
| Taxco | 257-290 | 4-5 | 1 Centro, 4 EDO |
| Zihuatanejo | 160-248 | 4½-5½ | frequent Centro, 7 EDO, 9 Papagayo |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Several car rental companies have offices at the airport.
Alamo (%744-466-93-30; www.alamo.com.mx/en; h7am-10pm)
Europcar (%744-466-93-14; www.europcar.com.mx/en; h6am-11pm)
Hertz (%744-466-94-24; www.hertz.com; h6am-10pm)
8Getting Around
Cycling in Acapulco can be a hairy ride; always wear a helmet. Las Bicis de Aca (www.facebook.com/lasbicisdeaca.es; Av Costera s/n; rental per hour M$50; h1-9pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) rents out bikes.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Acapulco’s airport is 23km southeast of the zócalo. You can buy a ticket for transportation into town from the desk at the end of the domestic terminal. Private taxis from the airport run constantly, ranging in price depending on destination (think M$450 for central hotels).
Leaving Acapulco, taxis from downtown to the airport cost around M$250 to M$350, depending on the distance.
BUS
The easiest way to get around is on the ‘Base–Caleta’ bus route, which runs from the Icacos naval base on the southeast end of Acapulco, along La Costera, past the zócalo to Playa Caleta. Fares are M$8 and M$9.50 for buses with air-conditioning.
Another option is the Acabús system (www.acabus.gob.mx): red rapid-transit buses accessed via station platforms using rechargeable smart cards. The yellow RT4 line is a main route, plying Avenida Costera from Icacos to the zócalo. From the zócalo station, transfer to the complementary RA12 line to reach Caleta. Rides cost M$10 including free transfers to complementary routes.
Most buses operate from 5am to 11pm. A bus stop (map Av Costera s/n; h5am-10pm) for the nearby beach towns of Pie de la Cuesta and Puerto Marqués is on Avenida Costera, about two blocks east from the zócalo.
Avoid driving in Acapulco if you can. The anarchic traffic is often horribly snarled. A pricey new 3.3km tunnel (M$55) called Macrotúnel runs from south of the Icacos naval base to Acapulco Diamante, but you’re better off taking the pretty scenic drive along the coast.
TAXI
Legions of blue-and-white cabs scurry around Acapulco like cockroaches, maneuvering with an audacity that borders on the comical. Drivers often quote fares higher than the official ones; always agree on a price with the driver before getting in. Other blue-and-white cabs are also available. A short hop should be M$40 to M$50, while a cross-town ride will be M$100 to M$150.
Shared yellow taxis (colectivos or peseros) run along set routes and cost M$18 per journey (double if you want to sit on your own in the front and not get squashed). Their destinations are written on the windshield and they can be hailed anywhere – in fact, they’ll probably hail you with their horns first.
In the hotel district, sparkling Cinderella-style horse carts are a big hit with kids at night.
Costa Chica
Guerrero’s ‘Small Coast,’ extending southeast from Acapulco to the Oaxaca border, is much less traveled than its bigger brother (Costa Grande) to the northwest, but it has some spectacular beaches. Afro-Mestizos (people of mixed African, indigenous and European descent) make up a portion of the population. The region was a safe haven for Africans who escaped slavery, some from the interior, others (it’s believed) from a slave ship that sank just off the coast.
From Acapulco, Hwy 200 traverses inland past small villages and farmlands. San Marcos, about 60km east of Acapulco, and Cruz Grande, about 40km further east, are the only two towns of significant size before Cuajinicuilapa near the Oaxaca border. Both provide basic services including banks, gas stations and simple hotels. Playa Ventura makes a great place to spend a couple days relaxing on a quiet beach with lovely rock formations.
Playa Ventura
%741 / Pop 555
Located 135km southeast of Acapulco, Playa Ventura (labeled Colonia Juan Álvarez on most maps) is a long, pristine beach with soft white-and-gold sands. Behind it is a simple, likable Mexican village, while uncomplicated beachfront accommodations and seafood restaurants line the beaches in both directions from the center of town.
Playa Ventura is an important turtle nesting site, and volunteers go out every night in the season (from May to January) to collect eggs and rebury them in a little beachside compound, which looks like a tiny war cemetery with its rows of information markers, but with a more hopeful purpose. Like most good places along the seldom-visited Costa Chica, including the nearby market town of Marquelia and its sublime beach Playa La Bocana, Playa Ventura leaves you no choice but to disconnect and surrender to its easy tempo and natural beauty.
4Sleeping
oMéson Casa de PiedraHOTEL$
(%cell 741-1013129; www.playaventura.mx; Costera Ventura s/n; d M$600-900; pnW)
The House of Stone features beautifully designed rustic rooms fashioned from recycled objects; some include private balconies with ocean views (the ‘cielo’ room provides a sweet vista, and it’s affordable to boot). The Mesón also boasts one of the best restaurants in town, serving excellent breakfast, pizza, vegetarian fare and fresh fish and seafood.
5Eating & Drinking
oLos NorteñitosMEXICAN$
(%cell 745-1163957; mains M$50-150; h7am–10pm)
Totally authentic and genuinely welcoming, this taquería in the center of town is run by an affable local family. Delicious cecina (cured beef) tacos are great with freshly made tomatillo (green tomato) salsa in a molcajete (mortar and pestle), while fish and prawns are reliably delicious – the whole snapper cooked in foil with a mellow chili sauce is a standout.
BolumbaBAR
(%741-101-30-12; felixbolumba@live.com.mx; Costera Ventura s/n; h7am-9pm; W)
This palapa restaurant-bar occupies an excellent beach for swimming. It stays open until 9pm, which makes for a late evening by Playa Ventura standards. A refreshing michelada (beer cocktail) usually hits the spot here. It’s about 500m south of the town center.
8Getting There & Away
To get here by car from Acapulco, take Hwy 200 to the signposted Playa Ventura turnoff (Km 124), just east of the village of Copala, then continue 7km to the coast. Alternatively, take a southeast-bound bus to Copala (M$110 to M$134, about 3½ hours). From the Oxxo convenience store in Copala, camionetas (pickup trucks) and microbuses depart for the turnoff to Playa Ventura (M$10, 10 minutes). At the turnoff, shared taxis (M$17, 10 minutes) shuttle into town. Some Cuajinicuilapa-bound buses from Acapulco will drop you directly at the turnoff.
Cuajinicuilapa
%741 / Pop 10,282
About 200km southeast of Acapulco, Cuajinicuilapa (Cuaji for short) is the nucleus of Afro-Mestizo culture on the Costa Chica.
The main sight in town is the Museo de las Culturas Afromestizas (Museum of Afro-Mestizo Cultures; %cell 741-1250842; museodelasculturasafromestizas_cuaji@hotmail.com; Zárate s/n; M$10; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun) is a tribute to the history of African slaves in Mexico and, specifically, to local Afro-Mestizo culture. There are some interesting stories, sweet dioramas and a model slaving ship; all text is in Spanish. Behind the museum are three examples of casas redondas, the round houses typical of West Africa that were built around Cuaji until the 1960s. The museum is behind the basketball court on the main road in the town center.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Cuajinicuilapa (M$233, 4½ hours) run by AltaMar/Costeños depart Central Ejido bus terminal in Acapulco nine times daily. There are also nine buses daily from Pinotepa Nacional (M$60, one hour) in Oaxaca state.