Real de Catorce
%488 / Pop 1300 / Elev 2730m
A wealthy silver-mining town until early last century, Real de Catorce’s fortunes changed overnight when the price of silver plummeted, its mine closed and much of the population left, leaving it a ‘ghost town’ located an inconveniently long distance from anywhere, deep in the giant hills of the Sierra Madre Oriental. Not long ago Real was nearly deserted, its streets lined with crumbling buildings and just a few hundred unfortunates eking out an existence.
But then somebody invented the weekend break and the boutique hotel and Real de Catorce slipped into a new element, attracting outsiders who have helped with the slow (and very much ongoing) transformation of the town into a getaway destination. Although Real is no longer a ghost town, doors still creak in the breeze, cobblestone streets end abruptly and many buildings are ruins, but the fabulous scenery and charming architecture make it a delight to visit.
History
The 14 in the town’s name may have been derived from the 14 Spanish soldiers killed here by indigenous resistance fighters around 1700. The town was founded in the mid-18th century and the church built between 1790 and 1817. The town reached its peak in the late 19th century, vying to surpass the famed Valenciana mine of Guanajuato. It had opulent houses, a bullring and shops selling European luxury goods.
1Sights
Templo de la Purísima ConcepciónCHURCH
(map Lanzagorta; 
h7am-7pm) 
F
This charming church is an impressive neoclassical building where thousands of Mexican pilgrims descend annually in a pilgrimage to the supposedly miraculous image of St Francis of Assisi, displayed at the front of the church. A cult has grown up around the statue, whose help is sought in solving problems and cleansing sins. Walk through the door to the left of the altar to find a roomful of retablos, small pictures depicting threatening situations in which St Francis interceded.
Retablos have become much sought after by collectors and are very occasionally seen in antique shops. Sadly, most of those on sale have been stolen from churches such as this one.
Centro Cultural de Real de CatorceMUSEUM
(map Casa de la Moneda; M$10; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
Opposite the Templo de la Purísima Concepción’s facade, the Centro Cultural de Real de Catorce, the old mint, made coins for 14 months (1,489,405 pesos to be exact) in the mid-1860s. This classic monument has been exquisitely restored over the last few years and now houses a cultural-center-cum-gallery with several levels of temporary exhibitions. The bottom floor has a permanent exhibition depicting photos and machinery from the original mint.
2Activities
Hiking
The hilly and stark desert setting makes up for the lack of major sights around town. If you’re into walking, there’s plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of days. Don’t miss the Pueblo Fantasmo or Socavón de Purísima hikes.
Pueblo FantasmoHIKING
Allow at least one hour to get to this hillside ghost town, which is visible from the town. There is also a second set of ruins, not visible from Real, 100m further on. Beware that there are also two large shafts in the ruins, so take care while wandering about. From Real, head along Lanzagorta and stay left.
To extend this hike, head northwest along the ridge to the antennas and the cross over the town (make sure you note this from the town before you leave, as it becomes obscured when on the ridge). Follow the path behind the cross before you weave your way down to the cemetery. Allow three to four hours in total for the longer hike.
Socavón de PurísimaHIKING
Socavón de Purísima is the large chimney of a former mine. To get here from Real, head off down Allende and veer right at its end. Follow this road until you reach the chimney (about 45 minutes one way). The road passes through a cut or split rock, the Cerro Trocado. If open, you can enter the mouth of the mine.
To return, it’s a longer and harder slog back up the hill. Be sure to take water, a hat and strong footwear; it’s dry and unforgiving country out here.
Horseback Riding
Numerous trails lead out into the dry, stark and fascinating desertscapes around Real. The most popular guided trail ride is the three-hour trip to El Quemado, the sacred mountain of the Huicholes. Here you’ll find expansive views of the high-desert plateau and a small shrine to the sun god. The horses and guides congregate every morning around Plaza Hidalgo.
Horse guides now belong to an association, approved by the municipality, and you’ll find Caballerangos del Real (map Plaza Hidalgo; 2hr trip M$150-200) around Real’s main square offering rides. Note that no protective hats are provided; you clomp off at your own risk.
Jeep Rides
Trips in ‘Jeep Willys’ can also be arranged to many of the same locations, mainly on weekends. Ask any of the drivers along Lanzagorta or Allende, or at the tourist office. Rates vary according to the trip and numbers; they work out cheaper if you share the cost with other visitors.
Cycling
Cyclists of all levels can head out around Real de Catorce on some great-value rides with Lalo Bike (map %cell 488-1051981; www.facebook.com/mtb-bicitours-expeditions; Lanzagorta 5; 1½hr ride per person M$150; hFri-Sun Nov-Sep). Lalo speaks Spanish only, but can arrange an English-speaking guide) Prices include mountain bike, helmet and guide. Spanish speakers can email or ring ahead or, if you are in Real, inquire at Mesón de la Abundancia
zFestivals & Events
Fiesta de San FranciscoRELIGIOUS
(hend Sep-Oct)
From the end of September to the end of October, 150,000 pilgrims pay homage to the figure of St Francis of Assisi in the town’s church. Many of them just come for the day, while thousands stay in the town, filling every rentable room and sleeping rough in the plazas.
The streets are lined with stalls selling religious souvenirs and food, while many of the town’s more upmarket restaurants close for a month. Note: travelers who desire the tranquil ‘ghost-town experience’ of Real de Catorce are best staying away during this festival period to avoid disappointment.
Festival del DesiertoCULTURAL
(www.festivaldeldesierto.com.mx; hJun)
This cultural festival features folkloric music and dance performances in towns all around the region. Dates vary annually; check before you come with the tourist office.
4Sleeping
There’s a good number of hotels for such a remote place, and it’s a good idea to reserve on the weekend. Also note that it can be very cold here in winter in the cheapest digs; bring a sleeping bag or extra layers of clothing, or request extra blankets.
oMesón de AbundanciaHOTEL$$
(map %488-887-50-44; www.mesonabundancia.com; Lanzagorta 11; d M$850-1500; 
W)
Easily one of Mexico’s most atmospheric hotels, this 19th-century former treasury building has been wonderfully renovated and is Real’s best option by far. A massive old-fashioned key lets you into one of 11 rooms; these are grandly appointed and tastefully decorated with local crafts and make a cozy retreat on chilly nights. Rates are significantly lower outside high season.
Hotel Mina RealHOTEL$$
(map %488-887-51-62; www.hotelminareal.com; Corona 5B; r from M$1250; W)
This stylish place is no museum of Real’s past but a thoughtfully and boldly renovated stone building whose tone is set by the modern wooden staircase leading up through its center to the 11 tastefully modern rooms and the gorgeous roof terrace. It’s a good choice for those seeking contemporary comforts. There’s no breakfast.
Hotel Amor y PazHOTEL$$
(map %488-887-50-59; hotelayp@gmail.com; Juárez 10; d M$1100; W)
How you feel about this hotel’s spiritual pretensions (its business cards come with Buddha quotations) might affect your overall opinion, but what cannot be denied is its historic charm, built around a lovely courtyard and stuffed with period furniture. The rooms are a little dark, but have gorgeous wooden ceilings and colorfully tiled bathrooms.
5Eating & Drinking
Café AzulCAFE$
(map Lanzagorta 27; breakfasts M$50-90; h8:30am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Open all day, this airy, Swiss-run spot is perfect for breakfast, freshly baked cakes and light meals, including excellent crepes. The delightful owners are very helpful with local info.
Mesón de AbundanciaMEXICAN, ITALIAN$$
(map www.mesonabundancia.com; Lanzagorta 11; mains M$100-200; h7am-10pm; W
v)
There are several cozy eating areas at the restaurant in this hugely atmospheric hotel, one with a bar and fireplace. The hearty servings of Italian and Mexican dishes are delicious and its wood-fired oven pizza is a delicious evening treat. It’s open all day, every day, including for breakfast.
Amor y PazBAR
(map Juaréz 10; h6pm-late Fri & Sat)
Real’s reputation as a ghost town may in part be due to the fact that its residents and visitors are often all hiding out at this funky bar, hidden behind the walls of Hotel El Real (map www.hotelreal.com.mx; Morelos 20). It’s decked out in antiques (note the amazing wooden bar), retro seating and quirky chandeliers, and serves a range of mezcals.
8Information
There’s one ATM in Real de Catorce, located in the tourist office, but on busy weekends it occasionally runs out of money and is often out of order thanks to electricity cuts and the like, so it’s wise to bring cash.
There’s a small but helpful tourist office (Palacio Municipal, Constitución s/n; h9am-4pm) by the church.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
To get to Real de Catorce, you need to catch a bus from the town of Matehuala (M$95, 1½ hours). These leave Matehuala’s bus station at 8am, midday, 2pm and 6pm. Matehuala is easy to reach from elsewhere in the region, with multiple daily connections from San Luis Potosí (M$247, three hours) and Querétaro (M$515, 5½ hours).
On arrival in Real, buses stop on the outskirts of town before the Ogarrio tunnel. There, in order to pass through the tunnel to the town proper, you change to a smaller bus that takes you the final part of the journey, dropping you on the market square.
Returning from Real to Matehuala, the small buses leave the market square in Real at 7:40am, 11:40am, 3:40pm and 5:40pm (M$88, 1½ to two hours), and once again passengers pick up the bigger bus on the other side for the rest of the journey. Buy tickets on board the bus.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
If driving from Hwy 57 north of Matehuala, turn off toward Cedral, 20km west. After Cedral, you turn south to reach Catorce on what must be one of the world’s longest cobblestone roads. It’s a slow but spectacular zigzag drive up a steep mountainside. The 2.3km-long Ogarrio tunnel (M$30 per vehicle) is only wide enough for one vehicle; workers stationed at each end with telephones control traffic flow between 7am and 11pm. If it’s really busy, you’ll have to leave your car at the eastern tunnel entrance and continue by pickup or cart. If you drive through, as a nonresident you are supposed to leave your car in the parking area where you exit the tunnel, rather than park in the narrow streets of the town.
La Huasteca Potosina
The stunning, tropical Huasteca Potosina is a lush, remote subregion of San Luis Potosí but worlds away from it in both geography and climate. Filled will incredible waterfalls and swimming holes, the result of the rivers that flow eastward from the slopes of the Sierra Madre Oriental, this alluring region offers some of central Mexico’s most breathtaking scenery. The waterfalls here look as though they’ve been photoshopped, so rich is their aquamarine hue due to the high calcium content in the surrounding rocks. The rich culture of the local Huastec people (Tének), plus extraordinary sinkholes, caves and bird-watching, make a visit here extremely rewarding. The best time to visit is in dry season, between November and March. Wet season brings heavy rains and high, less-clear waters.
1Sights
Sótano de las GolondrinasCAVE
(Aquismón; M$35; hdawn-dusk)
The extraordinary limestone sinkhole, known as Swallows’ Cave, is located near Aquismón. One of the world’s deepest pits at over 500m (over 370m freefall), it’s known for the thousands of vencejos (white-collared swifts) that nest in the caves. At dawn, flocks of swifts leave the cave, spiraling their way up to the opening. At dusk, on return to the cave, they circle above the cave mouth before they break off in groups and dive-bomb into the abyss.
It’s popular with rappelers and base jumpers who drop from the cave’s mouth. To get there, you must walk from the car park, down hundreds of steps (and back again), which is about a 20-minute walk.
Sótano de las HuahuasCAVE
(San Isidro Tampaxal; M$35; hdawn-dusk)
This impressive sinkhole is one of two in the Huasteca Potosina where you can view swift flocks exiting and entering their cavern. A favorite for rappeling enthusiasts, the chasm itself is around 478m deep. Accessing the cave is a little tricky – from the car park you must walk 1km through remarkable jungle – but it’s worth it for its beautiful cedar and local tree and bird species.
Laguna de la Media LunaHOT SPRINGS
(El Jabalí; adult/child M$40/20; h9am-6pm)
This extraordinary prehistoric lagoon is fed by six thermal springs with temperatures ranging between an appealing 27°C and 30°C (80.6°F and 86°F). Its crystal-clear waters mean snorkelers and divers can view beds of water lilies, an ancient petrified forest and several fish species. Hundreds of families flock here on weekends, when it can get very busy. You can hire snorkeling gear from one of the many stalls inside the area (M$20).
Diving courses are available. The most highly recommended is Escuela de Buceo Media Luna (%487-872-81-89; www.buceomedialuna.com; diving courses from M$950), run by master scuba diver and oceanographer Ossiel Martinez.
Waterfalls
The region’s main draw is its incredible waterfalls, which in most cases you can swim near or take boat trips to. A self-guided tour with your own wheels or an agency-run day trip is the perfect way to discover them all.
Los MicosWATERFALL
(M$30; h8am-5pm)
One of the most visited of Huasteca Potosina’s falls it may be, but there’s a reason for that: here seven waterfalls of different heights cascade down a river bed, which makes for an incredible sight. You can do a quick boat tour (M$90 for 10 minutes; minimum four people) or jumping expeditions down the seven waterfalls (M$175 per person for two hours; helmet and life jacket supplied). Many operators located in the car park offer the same activity.
oCascadas de Minas ViejasWATERFALL
(El Platanito; M$30; h7am-8pm)
The stunning cascades of Minas Viejas are well worth the 78km trip northwest from Ciudad Valles, if only to see the gorgeous turquoise waters here. The site comprises a principal waterfall with a drop of 55m plus a stunning water pool. From here, a series of smaller cascades and pools drop over terraces. It’s a popular destination for adventure groups who jump over the terraces.
Puente de DiosWATERFALL
(M$30)
Around 5km northeast of Tamasopo along a rough road, Puente de Dios features a 600m-long wooden walkway with stunning rain-forest views and fabulous swimming opportunities. The main feature, ‘God’s Bridge’ is a turquoise-colored water hole with an adjoining cave entrance, though this is not accessible or recommended in high waters.
oCascada de TamulWATERFALL
(M$20; h8am-6pm)
Tamul is the Huasteca Potosina’s most spectacular waterfall. Water plunges 105m into the pristine Río Santa Maria (which becomes the Tampaón). Its setting, in a canyon surrounded on all sides with thick forest, is quite simply breathtaking. Best of all, you’ll often have this amazing place to yourself, due to its remote location.
To see the falls, you can drive almost all the way to the top entrance (you’ll need to pay M$20 to drive along this private dirt track). When you reach the river, you’ll need to park, wade across to the campsite on other side (if the river is flowing heavily, it’s best to be helped across by one of the campsite employees), from where it’s an easy 1km hike to the waterfall itself. You’ll emerge at its top, where there is a lovely pool to swim in, but be sure to take the rickety wooden ladder down to the bottom of the valley and see the falls from there, where they are truly a spectacular sight with thousands of butterflies flapping about in the spray.
Another way to reach the waterfall is to paddle up river in a wooden lancha (boat), a return journey of around 3½ hours (M$800 to M$1000 per boat depending on your haggling skills). You can arrange trips on arrival into Tanchachín or La Morena.
If you don’t have your own transportation, MS Xpediciones arranges excellent day trips from Ciudad Valles, complete with lunch at the home of a hospitable local (M$800 per person including transportation; minimum two people). It also arranges rafting trips in the area.
2Activities
La Huasteca Potosina is a dream for activities enthusiasts, with swimming, hiking, rappeling, rafting and kayaking all possible on and around its rushing rivers and soaring peaks. Agencies in Xilitla, Ciudad Valles and San Luis Potosí can arrange day trips and multiday tours, though it’s best to make arrangements at least several days in advance.
4Sleeping
El MolinoGUESTHOUSE$$
(www.hotelelmolino.webs.com; Porfirio Díaz 1417, Rio Verde; r from M$950; 
pW)
Based in the rather scrappy agricultural town of Rio Verde, on the edge of the Huasteca Potosina, ‘The Mill’ has 15 neat and tasteful rooms (some of which are around the central living room) and a pretty garden. Built on the ruins of an 18th-century sugarcane factory, El Molino provides sweet respite from the heat. The owners also offer meals.
It’s a lovely place to stay if you plan to visit the nearby Laguna de la Media Luna. Breakfast costs M$70.
8Getting There & Away
You can get to the towns of Xilitla and Ciudad Valles easily by public transportation, but the nature of the region beyond these population centers means you really need your own transportation to reach the best places. Of course, you can also hire taxis or arrange trips with a local tour operator, which you’ll find in both Xilitla and Ciudad Valles.
Ciudad Valles
%481 / Pop 177,000
Ciudad Valles, while not a very attractive city, is the chief town of La Huasteca Potosina and is useful for its adventure organizations and potentially as a transportation hub and a place to spend the night. The town itself is fairly unattractive, but it does boast two interesting museums that focus on the history of the region’s Huastec and Nahuatl peoples.
1Sights
Museo Regional Huasteco Joaquín MeadeMUSEUM
(Rotarios 623; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) F
Showcases over 10,000 archaeological and ethnological pieces from the region, from around 600 BC until the Spanish conquest.
Museo de Cultura de la Huasteca TamuantzánMUSEUM
(%481-381-26-75; Carretera México-Laredo y Libramiento Sur; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) F
An excellent starting point to learn more about the Huasteca region and local cultures.
2Activities
oMS XpedicionesADVENTURE
(%481-381-18-88; www.msxpediciones.com; Blvd México Laredo, Escontría 15B, Interior Hotel Misión; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, plus 9am-noon Sun Jul & Aug) 
S
The pick of the region’s operators for its community-aware, friendly and professional approach. Its range of activities and adventures includes trips to Xilitla and Las Pozas, to the bird caves, and to many of the region’s waterfalls. It also arranges excellent canoeing adventures, including to Tamul (M$800 minimum two people; including transportation and a meal with a local family) plus rafting expeditions.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Misión Ciudad VallesHOTEL$$
(%481-382-00-66; www.hotelesmision.com.mx; Blvd México-Laredo 15; r M$1438; 
aW
s)
This attractive 1930s hacienda-style building may be in need of a little love and a fresh lick of paint, but it has good bones. There’s a big pool (a plus in this climate) and spacious and clean rooms with coffee facilities. Breakfast is not included in the price, but is available.
La LeyendaMEXICAN$$
(Morelos 323; M$115-225; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; pa)
This rather dark but mercifully air-conditioned restaurant is housed in a ranch-like building where smart and attentive staff work hard for their tips. The meaty menu is pure Mexican, with tasty tacos, enchiladas and steaks.
8Getting There & Away
Ciudad Valles is well connected throughout the region, and the busy Terminal Ciudad Valles (Contreras s/n) can be found 3km southeast of the downtown area. To get to Real de Catorce from here, you’ll need to change buses twice; first in the town of Río Verde and then in Matehuala.
Xilitla
%489 / Pop 6500 / Elev 489m
Surrounded by the jaw-dropping tropical scenery of the Huasteca Potosina, the remote hillside town of Xilitla (hee-leet-la) is an agreeable spot notable for its precariously steep streets and proximity to Las Pozas, the British eccentric Edward James’ fantastical jungle sculpture garden. Built just outside the town in the 1950s and constantly embellished and expanded over the following decades, Las Pozas is still the main reason for most people to come here.
As the Huasteca Potosina continues to grow in popularity as a travel destination, however, Xilitla has found itself at the center of a small but quickly growing tourism bubble, and now has dozens of hotels and guesthouses as well as numerous tour operators offering rafting, rappeling, hiking and mountain-bike excursions in the surrounding countryside. There’s definitely a bit of magic in the air here, as all who make it this far quickly discover.
DON’T MISS
LAS POZAS
Take a wealthy English eccentric, an idyllic tract of Mexican jungle and an extremely hyperactive imagination, and you’d still struggle to come up with the audacious, bizarre and – frankly – madcap experiment that is Las Pozas (The Pools; www.xilitla.org; M$70; h9am-6pm).
Situated on the sweeping slopes of the Sierra Madre Oriental, Las Pozas is a monumental sculpture garden built in thick jungle that links a series of concrete temples, pagodas, bridges, pavilions and spiral stairways with a necklace of natural waterfalls. The surreal creation stands as a memorial to the imagination and excessive wealth of Edward James (1907−84). A drop-out English aristocrat and poet, he became a patron of Salvador Dalí in the late 1930s and subsequently went on to amass the largest private collection of surrealist art in the world. In 1945 James’ adventures took him to Xilitla where he met Plutarco Gastelum, who helped build Las Pozas. It began with 40 local workers crafting giant, colored concrete flowers beside an idyllic jungle stream. Then, for 17 years, James and Gastelum created ever larger and stranger structures – many of which were never finished – at an estimated cost of US$5 million.
James died in 1984, leaving no provision to maintain his creation, which, since 2008, has been in the hands of a Mexican-run nonprofit foundation. The extravagant labyrinth of surreal sculptures and edifices with stairways leading nowhere covers 36 hectares and is worth a significant diversion for anyone with the vaguest creative inclinations. If you’re in fairly good shape, you could spend the whole day contemplating the lovely swimming holes and mazelike trails.
Las Pozas has a good on-site restaurant (open 10am to 6pm) and there are several small campsites and posadas nearby. For the true Las Pozas experience, you should stay at Posada El Castillo, the surrealist-inspired former Gastelum home where James himself also lived, now transformed into a verdant Pozas-esque guesthouse run by the Gastelum family.
TTours
Mundo Extreme ToursOUTDOORS
(%489-105-30-00; www.mundoextreme.com.mx; Hidalgo 104)
A highly recommended outfit specializing in extreme sports and all sorts of outdoor activity, Mundo Extreme offers a number of ‘rutas’ through the Huasteca Potosina, combining elements of hiking, climbing, kayaking, rafting and rappeling.
Ruta XilitlaOUTDOORS
(%489-109-65-40; www.rutaxilitla.com)
A good Xilitla-based agency that offers a wide range of activities throughout the Huasteca Potosina, including visits to the waterfalls and caves, plus rafting and rappeling.
4Sleeping & Eating
While things have improved noticeably in the past few years, there’s still not much culinary choice. What there is can be found on and around the Jardín Principal, Xilitla’s main square.
oHotel Camino SurrealHOTEL$$
(%489-365-03-67; www.caminosurreal.com; Ocampo 311; r M$1500; aWs)
This is the friendliest and most comfortable place in town and makes for a very pleasant oasis of cool after a day tramping around the jungle. There are just six rooms, but they’re all spacious, spotlessly clean and most enjoy balconies overlooking the pool and garden out back.
Posada El CastilloGUESTHOUSE$$
(%489-365-00-38; www.junglegossip.com; Ocampo 105; d incl breakfast M$1570; Ws)
The former Gastelum home where Edward James stayed in Xilitla is now a verdant, Pozas-esque guesthouse run by his niece and her family. Its unique rooms are decorated with antiques and art, and some claim fantastic views. Based only on room quality, it’s quite overpriced, and while the welcome is warm, they do not accept walk-ins, so reserve ahead.
QuerrequeMEXICAN$$
(Hidalgo 201; mains M$115-220; h9am-10pm; Wv)
There are wonderful views over the town and distant hills from this place’s large terrace. Inside you’ll find two brightly colored dining rooms and friendly staff working hard serving up Mexican dishes of all types, including mole de mariscos (traditional mole served with a range of seafood), spicy enchiladas and chile hojaldrado relleno (a stuffed chili wrapped in puff pastry).
8Getting There & Away
Xilitla’s makeshift bus station (Independencia s/n) is a small lot surrounded by several ticket offices in the middle of the town. From here you can find buses to the following destinations.
ZACATECAS STATE
The state of Zacatecas (za-ka-te-kas) is a dry, rugged, cactus-strewn expanse on the fringe of Mexico’s northern semideserts. The state is best known for the wealthy silver city of the same name, an elegant and enjoyable place full of colonial architecture and boasting an impressive cathedral. Visitors can enjoy the region’s historical and natural monuments, including the mysterious ruins of La Quemada, a testament to centuries of cultures. The state is one of Mexico’s largest in area (73,252 sq km) but smallest in population (1.5 million); it is believed that as many people again, who come from the state, currently live in the USA.
Zacatecas
%492 / Pop 147,000 / Elev 2430m
The most northern of Mexico’s silver cities, fascinating Zacatecas – a Unesco World Heritage site – runs along a narrow valley overlooked by a steep and imposing hillside. The large historic center is jam-packed with opulent colonial buildings, a stupendous cathedral, magnificent museums and steep, winding streets and alleys that simply ooze charm.
Zacatecas was where thousands of indigenous slaves were forced by the Spanish to toil in the mines under terrible conditions. Pancho Villa enjoyed a historic victory in 1914, and he is still feted by locals today. Today travelers can have their own lofty experiences in a teleférico (cable car) to the Cerro de la Bufa, the impressive rock outcrop that soars above the town and affords great views of the church domes and tiled rooftops below. Alternatively, visitors can drop below the surface to tour the infamous Edén mine, a sobering reminder of the city’s brutal colonial past.
History
Indigenous Zacatecos – one of the Chichimec tribes – mined local mineral deposits for centuries before the Spanish arrived; it’s said that the silver rush here was started when a Chichimec gave a piece of the fabled metal to a conquistador. The Spaniards founded a settlement in 1548 and started mining operations that sent caravan after caravan of silver off to Mexico City, creating fabulously wealthy silver barons in Zacatecas.
By the early 18th century, the mines of Zacatecas were producing 20% of Nueva España’s silver and the city became an important base for Catholic missionaries.
In the 19th century political instability diminished the flow of silver. Although silver production later improved under Porfirio Díaz, the Revolution disrupted it. In 1914 in Zacatecas, Pancho Villa defeated a stronghold of 12,000 soldiers loyal to President Victoriano Huerta. After the Revolution, Zacatecas continued to thrive on silver until the final closure of the last mines.
1Sights
oMuseo Rafael CoronelMUSEUM
(cnr Abasolo & Matamoros; adult/student M$30/15; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue)
The excellent Museo Rafael Coronel is not to be missed. Imaginatively housed in the ruins of the lovely 16th-century Ex-Convento de San Francisco, it houses Mexican folk art collected by Zacatecan artist Rafael Coronel, brother of Pedro Coronel and son-in-law of Diego Rivera. Take your time to wander through the various spaces by following the arrows. The collection of masks is truly incredible, as are collections of totems, pottery, puppets and other fascinating objects. All labeling is in Spanish only.
oMuseo del Arte Abstracto Manuel FelguérezMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museodearteabstracto.com; Ex-Seminario de la Purísima Concepción, Colón s/n; adult/student M$30/20; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)
This superb abstract-art museum is worth visiting for the building alone; originally a seminary, it was later used as a prison and has been renovated to create some remarkable exhibition spaces, transforming the former dark, depressing cells and steel walkways into a beautiful site. It has a stunning and varied collection of abstract painting and sculpture, particularly the work of Zacatecan artist Manuel Felguérez. You can easily while away an hour or two in contemplation of extraordinary forms here.
oMuseo Pedro CoronelMUSEUM
(map Google map Plaza de Santo Domingo s/n; adult/student M$30/15; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
The extraordinary Museo Pedro Coronel is housed in a 17th-century former Jesuit college and, given that it was recently remodeled, is one of provincial Mexico’s best art museums. Pedro Coronel (1923−85) was an affluent Zacatecan artist who bequeathed his collection of art and artifacts from all over the world, as well as his own works. The collection includes 20th-century works by Picasso, Rouault, Dalí, Goya and Miró; and pre-Hispanic Mexican artifacts, masks and other ancient pieces.
Cerro de la BufaLANDMARK
The most appealing of the many explanations for the name of the hill that dominates Zacatecas is that bufa is an old Basque word for wineskin, which is apparently what the rocky formation looks like. The views from the top are superb and there’s an interesting group of monuments, a chapel and a museum. It is also the site of a zip-line, Tirolesa 840 (%cell 492-9463157; rides M$250; h10am-6pm), a 1km ride cross a former open-pit mine.
Once up the hill you can also visit Capilla de la Virgen del Patrocinio, as well as three imposing equestrian statues of the victors of the battle of Zacatecas – Villa, Ángeles and Pánfilo Natera, which stand opposite the chapel. To the right of the statues, a paved path along the foot of the rocky hilltop leads to the Mausoleo de los Hombres Ilustres de Zacatecas, with the tombs of Zacatecan heroes from 1841 to the present.
A convenient way to ascend La Bufa (to the church and museum) is by teleférico (%492-922-01-70; one-way ticket M$50; h10am-6pm). Alternatively, you can walk up, starting at Calle del Ángel from the cathedral’s east end. To reach it by car, take Carretera a la Bufa, which begins at Avenida López Velarde, a couple of kilometers east of the center. A taxi costs around M$60. You can return to town by the teleférico or by a footpath leading downhill from the statues.
Plaza de ArmasPLAZA
This recently renovated plaza is north of the cathedral. The Palacio de Gobierno (map Google map h8am-8pm Mon-Fri) F on the plaza’s east side was built in the 18th century for a colonial family. In the turret of its main staircase is a mural of the history of Zacatecas state, painted in 1970 by Antonio Rodríguez. Across the road, and directly opposite the Palacio, the Palacio de la Mala Noche map Google map was built in the late 18th century for a mine owner and now houses state government offices.
Mina El EdénMINE
(map Google map %492-922-30-02; www.minaeleden.com.mx/english; Mante s/n; tours adult/child M$100/50; htours every hour 10am-6pm)
Visiting one of Mexico’s richest mines (1586−1960s) provides an insight into a source of wealth and the terrible price paid for it. Digging for hoards of silver, gold, iron, copper and zinc, enslaved indigenous people worked in horrific conditions. Up to five people a day died from accidents or tuberculosis and silicosis. These days, it’s rather different: a miniature train takes you inside Cerro del Grillo, while guides lead you along floodlit walkways past shafts and over subterranean pools.
The mine has two entrances. To reach the higher one (the east entrance), walk 100m southwest from Cerro del Grillo teleférico station; from this entrance, tours start with an elevator descent. To reach the west entrance from the town center, walk west along Avenida Juárez and stay on it after its name changes to Avenida Torreón at the Alameda. Turn right immediately after the IMSS hospital (bus 7 from the corner of Avenida Hidalgo goes up Avenida Juárez and past the hospital) and a short walk will bring you to the mine entrance. Tours begin here with a trip on the narrow-gauge railway (540m), after which you walk another 350m or so.
CatedralCATHEDRAL
(map Google map Plaza de Armas)
Built between 1729 and 1752, the pink-stone cathedral is an ultimate expression of Mexican baroque. The stupendous main facade is a wall of detailed carvings; this has been interpreted as a giant symbol of the tabernacle. Indeed, a tiny figure of an angel holding a tabernacle is in the middle of the design, the keystone atop the round central window. Above this, in the third tier, is Christ and above Christ is God.
The southern facade’s central sculpture is of La Virgen de los Zacatecanos, the city’s patroness. The north facade shows Christ crucified, attended by the Virgin Mary and St John. Unveiled in 2010, the grand altar is the work of Javier Marín, a famous Mexican artist. It features 10 large bronze figures and the figure of Christ, arranged on a backdrop of golden blocks.
Museo Toma de ZacatecasMUSEUM
(%492-922-80-66; Cerro de la Bufa; adult/student M$20/10; h10am-4:30pm; 
c)
This museum memorializes the 1914 battle fought on the slopes of the Cerro de la Bufa in which the revolutionary División del Norte, led by Pancho Villa and Felipe Ángeles, defeated President Victoriano Huerta’s forces. This gave the revolutionaries control of Zacatecas, which was the gateway to Mexico City. The child-friendly museum, which reopened in 2014 after a full renovation, is a technological delight, with talking ghosts, actual footage of the battle and all kinds of other interactive displays.
Museo ZacatecanoMUSEUM
(map Google map Dr Hierro 301; adult/student M$30/15; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)
Zacatecas’ former mint (Mexico’s second-biggest in the 19th century) now houses the wonderful Museo Zacatecano. Spread over a number of rooms, this contemporary museum exhibits a weird mix of all things zacatecano. Unfortunately, the first few salas are text-heavy information boards (in Spanish). The highlight – in the last halls – is the superb collection of Huichol art. Videos (all in Spanish) provide each hall’s context.
Templo de Santo DomingoCHURCH
(map Google map Plazuela de Santo Domingo)
The Templo de Santo Domingo, in a plazuela of the same name, is in a baroque style, with fine gilded altars and a graceful horseshoe staircase. Built by the Jesuits in the 1740s, the church was taken over by Dominican monks when the Jesuits were expelled in 1767.
Ex-Templo de San AgustínCHURCH
(map Google map h10am-4:30pm Tue-Sun) F
The Ex-Templo de San Agustín was built for Augustinian monks in the 17th century. During the 19th-century anticlerical movement, the church became a cantina and Masonic lodge. In 1882 it was purchased by American Presbyterian missionaries who destroyed its ‘too Catholic’ main facade, replacing it with a blank white wall. One surviving feature is the church’s plateresque carving of the conversion of St Augustine over the north doorway. It’s now used as a venue for temporary exhibitions.
Museo Francisco GoitiaMUSEUM
(map Google map %492-922-02-11; Estrada 101; M$30; h10am-4:45pm Tue-Sun)
The Museo Francisco Goitia displays work by several 20th-century Zacatecan artists, including some evocative paintings of indigenous people by Goitia (1882−1960) himself. Other artists represented include Pedro Coronel, Rafael Coronel and Manuel Felguérez. The museum is in a former governor’s mansion, above Parque Enrique Estrada, and is worth it for the building and manicured gardens, overlooking the aqueduct.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LA QUEMADA RUINS
The remote and scenic ruins of La Quemada (M$55; h9am-5pm) stand on a hill 45km south of Zacatecas. The exact history and purpose of the site are extremely vague and many suppositions surround the area – one theory is that it was where the Aztecs halted during their legendary wanderings toward the Valle de México. What is known for sure is that the constructions were destroyed by fire – and thus they came to be called La Quemada (meaning ‘burned city’).
La Quemada was inhabited between about AD 300 and 1200, and it is estimated to have peaked between 500 and 900 with as many as 3000 inhabitants. From around 400 it was part of a regional trade network linked to Teotihuacán, but fortifications suggest that La Quemada later tried to dominate trade in this region. A recent study suggests that during the settlement’s peak its inhabitants engaged in cannibalism of their enemies, the remains of whom they hung up ceremonially.
Of the main structures, the nearest to the site entrance is the Salón de las Columnas (Hall of the Columns), probably a ceremonial hall. Slightly further up the hill are a ball court, a steep offerings pyramid and an equally steep staircase leading toward the site’s upper levels. From the upper levels of the main hill, a path leads westward for about 800m to a spur hilltop (the highest point) with the remains of a cluster of buildings called La Ciudadela (the Citadel). To return, follow the defensive wall and path back around to the small museum, which has an interesting collection of artifacts recovered from the site and a good video summary of what is known. Take water and a hat and be on the look out for rattlesnakes, which have been seen at the site.
From Zacatecas’s Plaza del Bicentenario, board a combi bus for Villanueva (M$40) and ask beforehand to be let off at las ruinas; you’ll be deposited at the turnoff, from where it’s a 2.5km walk to the site entrance. Returning to Zacatecas, you may have to wait a while for a bus – don’t leave the ruins too late. Alternatively, hire a taxi to take you here, which will cost around M$800 including waiting time.
zFestivals & Events
La MorismaRELIGIOUS
(hAug)
Usually held the last weekend in August, La Morisma features a spectacular mock battle commemorating the triumph of the Christians over the Muslims in old Spain. Two rival ‘armies’ – around 10,000 participants from the barrio of Bracho – parade through the streets in the morning, then, accompanied by bands of musicians, enact two battle sequences between Lomas de Bracho and Cerro de la Bufa.
Feria de ZacatecasCULTURAL
(FENAZA; www.fenaza.com.mx; hSep)
An annual fair with a folkloric focus, held during the first three weeks of September, featuring renowned matadors fighting famous local bulls. There are also charreadas (rodeos), concerts, plays, agricultural and craft shows. On September 8 the image of La Virgen del Patrocinio is carried to the cathedral from its chapel on Cerro de la Bufa.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
GUADALUPE
About 10km east of Zacatecas, Guadalupe boasts a fascinating historic former monastery, the Convento de Guadalupe. The Convento was established by Franciscan monks in the early 18th century as an apostolic college. It developed a strong academic tradition and was a base for missionary work in northern Nueva España until the 1850s. It is now the excellent Museo Virreinal de Guadalupe (Jardín Juárez Oriente; M$52, Sun free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun), the reason for travelers to come here.
Visitors can enter two parts of the convento: the impressive church, which attracts pilgrims to honor the country’s beloved Virgin, and museum itself, which features one of Mexico’s best colonial-art collections.
4Sleeping
Disappointingly, there are limited budget options in Zacatecas, though there is one very pleasant hostel. Midrange and top-end accommodations tend to double their rates during Zacatecas’ high seasons – September’s festivals, Christmas and Semana Santa (March/April).
oCielito Lindo HostalHOSTEL$
(map Google map %492-921-11-32; www.cielitolindohostal.com; Aguascalientes 213; dm M$220, d from M$500; W)
This delightful and stylish hostel right in the center of the city is the former home of a religious padre that has been lovingly converted into a charming – and much-needed – space for budget travelers. There’s a big choice of rooms including dorms that come with lockers and recharging stations, as well as a (rather basic) kitchen. Welcome is warm.
La TerrasseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map %492-925-53-15; www.terrassehotel.com.mx; Villalpando 209; d M$700-880, tr M$1000, all incl breakfast; 
naW)
This small, friendly and centrally located boutique option is run by a proud owner. It has 14 contemporary and slightly sparse rooms, but is by far the best midrange option. Back rooms have internal-facing windows: claustrophobic for some, quiet for others.
Hotel Mesón de JobitoHOTEL$$
(map Google map %492-922-70-95; www.mesondejobito.com; Jardín Juárez 143; r from M$1270; pnaW)
Guests come here to soak up the old-fashioned charm and sense of history that permeates pretty much every corner of this atmospheric hotel. Its 53 rooms are comfortable and spacious, if a little faded; there’s a good restaurant and bar (plus slanting balcony, a legacy of its construction 200 years ago). Its Sunday breakfast buffet (M$160) is a local institution.
Quinta Real ZacatecasLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %492-922-91-04, 800-500-40-00; www.quintareal.com; Rayón 434; ste from M$2700; pnaW)
This luxury treat is hands down the best hotel in Zacatecas. Spectacularly situated around the country’s oldest – and now retired – bullring and near El Cubo aqueduct, the 49-room hotel is one of Mexico’s most contemporary and fetching. Even the least expensive rooms are spacious, comfortable master suites. The elegant Restaurant La Plaza, overlooks the ring.
Hotel Emporio ZacatecasLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %492-925-65-00; www.hotelesemporio.com; Av Hidalgo 703; r from M$3195; pnW)
Zacatecas’ most upmarket hotel boasts a superb location, large and luxurious if somewhat bland rooms and pleasant public areas. Service is professional, and the rooms provide a quiet oasis from external noise. The downer is there’s no air-conditioning. The rack rates are high, though you can sometimes find big discounts online. Breakfast is not included.
Santa Rita HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %492-925-11-94; www.hotelsantarita.com; Av Hidalgo 507A; ste M$2300-3500; paW)
A stylish and contemporary choice, this boutique hotel has delightful, attentive staff and some unusual decorative choices. Be aware that some of the 41 suites have internal-facing windows, an inevitability in colonial buildings but one that might surprise you at these prices.
5Eating
Zacatecas has a rather disappointing dining scene in general, though there are some notable exceptions. Local specialties feature ingredients such as nopal (cactus) and pumpkin seeds. In the morning, look around Avenida Tacuba for the burro (donkey) carrying pottery jugs of aguamiel (honey water), a nutritional drink derived from the maguey cactus.
Acrópolis CaféMEXICAN$
(map Google map www.acropoliszacatecas.wixsite.com/restaurante; cnr Av Hidalgo & Plazuela Candelario Huizar; mains M$110-200; h8am-10pm; W)
Near the cathedral, this Greek-owned cafe has a quirky ’50s-style diner feel, and is the breakfast place for locals and visitors alike – perhaps more for its location than its food. It offers light meals, set breakfasts and good coffee.
El PueblitoMEXICAN$
(map Google map Hidalgo 802; mains M$60-180; h1-10pm Wed-Mon)
Furnished in the hues of Mexico – bright purples, yellows, pinks and oranges – this casual spot is the place for Mexican cuisine. Come when the locals do for late afternoon lunches, as it can feel a bit barn-like when no one else is here.
El RecovecoMEXICAN$
(map Google map Torreón 513; buffet breakfast/lunch M$89/99; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun)
‘Cheap and good’ is how the locals describe this long-standing, cafeteria-style eatery. This means buffet style (as much as you can eat and as many plates as you like) and tasty enough Mexican fare that holds no surprises but is outstanding value. Come hungry.
Los Dorados de VillaMEXICAN$$
(%492-922-57-22; Plazuela de García 1314; mains M$80-240; h3pm-12:30am; W)
You may have to reserve to get into this popular revolutionary-themed restaurant: knock at the door – it’s always locked. Inside it’s a blast of warmth and color chockablock with atmosphere and relics. Its menu offers a delicious array of everything, including an amazing selection of different enchiladas and a fabulous caldillo durangueño (Durango beef stew), a northern Mexican delicacy.
Restaurant La PlazaINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map Quinta Real Zacatecas, Rayón 434; mains M$200-390; W)
The elegant dining room at the Quinta Real Zacatecas is especially memorable for its outlook to the aqueduct and bullring, as well as for its refined ambience and good international cuisine with a few Mexican standards. Head here for Sunday brunch (M$250), a local institution. Reservations are advisable for the evening.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Mina ClubBAR
(www.minaeleden.com.mx; Dovali s/n; cover M$70-150; h10pm-late Sat)
For a different experience do not miss your chance to descend into the earth and party in the tunnel of the Mina El Edén. On Saturday the popular attraction morphs into a club; check opening hours as these change seasonally.
Cantina 15 LetrasBAR
(map Google map %492-922-01-78; Mártires de Chicago 309; h1pm-3am Mon-Sat)
Stop for a drink at this oft-crowded classic, filled with bohemians, drunks and poets. The art showcases some well-known local and international artists, including Pedro Coronel.
La Famosa Cantina TípicaBAR
(map Google map Callejón Cuevas 110; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun)
This popular and atmospheric bar is patronized by a well-dressed crowd of students and arty types. Like most bars in Zacatecas, it gets going late.
Dalí Café & BarBAR
(map Google map Plaza Miguel Auza 322; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am Sun; W)
This sprawling cafe-bar in front of Ex-Templo de San Agustín offers a surreal mix of furniture, cocktails and post-drink munchies (plus good hot-chocolate drinks).
3Entertainment
Teatro CalderónTHEATER
(map Google map %492-922-81-20; http://teatrocalderon.uaz.edu.mx; Av Hidalgo s/n)
This top venue hosts a variety of cultural events including theater, dance and music performances. Check the posters or with the tourist office for current events.
7Shopping
Zacatecas is known for silver and leather products and the colorful sarape (a blanket with an opening for a head). Try along Arroyo de la Plata (and its indoor market) and at Casa de las Artesanías (map Google map Plazuela Miguel Auza 312; h9am-6pm).
Centro PlateroJEWELRY
(%492-899-45-03; www.centroplaterodezacatecas.com; Ex-Hacienda de Bernardez; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
The Zacatecas silversmith industry sells its work at this workshop a few kilometers east of town on the road to Guadalupe. Here, young artisans produce various designs, from the traditional to the contemporary. To get here, take a taxi (around M$60).
8Information
Hospital Santa Elena (%492-924-29-28; Av Guerrero 143)
Post Office (Allende 111; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Tourist Office (%492-924-40-47; www.zacatecastravel.com; Av Hidalgo s/n; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) This information kiosk is run by Secturz, the municipal tourist organization, and offers maps and information. Ask for a copy of Agenda Cultural, an excellent month-by-month listing.
Tourist Office (%492-925-12-77, ext 625; www.zacatecastravel.com; Av González Ortega s/n; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) The formal headquarters of Secturz.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Zacatecas International Airport is 20km northwest of the city. There are two daily flights to Mexico City as well as direct services to Los Angeles, Dallas/Fort Worth and Chicago.
BUS
Central de Autobuses Zacatecas (Carretera 45) is on the southwest edge of town, around 3km from the center. Deluxe, 1st- and 2nd-class buses operate to/from here. Some buses to nearby destinations including Villanueva (for La Quemada) leave from Plaza del Bicentenario (Blvd López Mateos). Local buses to Guadalupe (Blvd López Mateos) leave from the other side of the road here. There is no direct service to Guanajuato from Zacatecas, so take a León bus and change there. For San Miguel de Allende, change buses in San Luis Potosí or Querétaro.
BUSES FROM ZACATECAS
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aguascalientes | 165-196 | 2-3 | hourly |
| Durango | 460-520 | 4½-7 | hourly |
| Guadalajara | 545-580 | 4-7 | hourly |
| León | 365 | 3-4 | 4 |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 810-975 | 6-8 | frequent |
| Monterrey | 556-601 | 7-8 | frequent |
| Querétaro | 560-640 | 5-6¼ | frequent |
| San Luis Potosí | 305 | 3-3½ | hourly |
8Getting Around
The easiest way to get to/from the airport is by taxi (M$350 to M$400).
Taxis from the bus station to the center of Zacatecas cost around M$50. Bus 8 from the bus station (M$6) runs directly to the cathedral. Heading out of the center, catch a ‘route 8’ bus heading south on Villalpando.
Jerez
%494 / Pop 58,000 / Elev 2000m
The delightful country town of Jerez, 30km southwest of Zacatecas, is as Mexican as can be: full of cowboys, churches and marching bands. As such, it’s a great place to head for a day to soak up the traditional atmosphere. Sunday – market day – is especially fun as you’ll see saddle-bound rancheros drinking outside the saloons, while on Saturdays you’ll see wedding processions and mariachis playing around the main plaza, Jardín Páez, with its old-fashioned gazebo, trees and benches. Jerez is also known for its lively one-week-long Easter fair, featuring, among other activities, charreadas (Mexican rodeos) and cockfights.
1Sights
Teatro HinojosaHISTORIC BUILDING
(Reloj Esq Salvador Varela; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Construction of this remarkable and very beautiful building is said to have taken place over two decades, thanks to the organization of a local Don Higinio Escobedo Zauza who got things rolling in 1867. Then Don José María Hinojos organized generous locals who volunteered their time and donations of materials until the project was completed. It is renowned for its extraordinary shape, said to create among the best acoustics in the world. Ask the caretaker if you can look inside.
Casa Museo Interactivo Ramón Lopez VelardeHISTORIC BUILDING
(Calle de la Parroquia 33; M$20; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun)
One of Mexico’s favorite poets, Ramón Lopez Velarde, was born in this house on June 15, 1888 and lived here first eight years or so of his life. The museum is well curated and full of interactive displays, which can be interesting even if you’re unfamiliar with Lopez Velarde’s work.
5Eating
oBotica del CafeCAFE$
(Calle del Espejo 3; sandwiches M$60-80; h5:30-10:30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-10:30pm Sat & Sun; Wv) S
This utterly delightful cafe is quite the find in a small town like Jerez. Housed in an old pharmacy, Botica del Cafe serves up delicious chapatas (ciabatta sandwiches), salads and cakes, and does an array of coffee likely to satisfy even the most demanding customer, including chemex and aeropress.
8Getting There & Away
There are regular services from Zacatecas’ bus station to Jerez (M$50 to M$60, one hour). Jerez’ bus station is on the east side of town, 1km from the center along Calzada La Suave Patria. From here, ‘Centro’ buses (M$6) run to/from the center.