Lox, Egg, and Onion Crêpe Bundles

This is my nod to L.E.O.s, that staple of New York diner menus. I like putting the sweet-and-savory eggs on top of the folded-up buckwheat crêpes (sort of like a buckwheat blini, but easier) rather than rolling them up inside, because the texture is more interesting. An easy horseradish sauce adds a touch of zing.

Makes 4 crêpes with topping; serves 2 to 4 for breakfast or 2 as a light lunch

FOR THE SAUCE

¼ cup/60 ml sour cream

1 tsp prepared horseradish

1 tsp finely grated lemon zest

1 tsp fresh lemon juice

¼ tsp kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp unsalted butter

1 small onion, halved and sliced very thinly

Kosher salt

4 Buckwheat Crêpes or your choice

4 large eggs, beaten

2 oz/55 g lox-style smoked salmon, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp thinly sliced fresh chives or scallions (white and light green parts)

MAKE THE SAUCE

In a small bowl, stir together the sour cream, horseradish, lemon zest and juice, salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Let the sauce sit at room temperature while you finish the crêpes so the flavors can marry.

Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and gently cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden, and very soft, sweet, and fragrant, 20 to 40 minutes (depending on how juicy the onion is).

Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300°F/150°C/gas 2. Lay the crêpes presentation-side down in a stack on a large plate and cover the plate with foil. Heat the crêpes until they’re hot, about 10 minutes.

When the onion is ready, increase the heat to medium-high, pour in the eggs, and gently scramble them with the onion, taking care not to let the eggs brown. Just before the eggs are cooked through, stir in the salmon and season with another pinch of salt and a few good grinds of pepper.

Fold the crêpes into loose triangles by folding them in half, and then in half again. Transfer the folded crêpes to two or four plates, depending on how many people you’re feeding, and smear the top of each one with 1 tbsp of the sour cream sauce. Divide the egg-lox mixture evenly among the crêpes, sprinkle with the chives, and serve right away.