Antigua
Sights
Activities
Courses
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Jocotenango
El Hato
Ciudad Vieja & Around
San Cristobal El Alto
San Juan Comalapa
Santiago Sacatepequez & Sumpango
Antigua
Pop 34,685 / Elev 1539m
Why Go?
A place of rare beauty, major historical significance and vibrant culture, Antigua remains Guatemala's must-visit destination.
A former capital, the city boasts an impressive catalog of colonial relics in a magnificent setting. Streetscapes of pastel facades unfold beneath three volcanoes. Many old ecclesiastical and civic structures are beautifully renovated, while others retain tumbledown charm, with fragments strewn about parklike grounds.
Thanks to the dozens of Spanish-language schools that operate here, Antigua is a global hot spot. Yet it remains a vibrant Guatemalan town; its churches, plazas and markets are throbbing with activity. Outside the city, indigenous communities, coffee plantations and volcanoes offer ample opportunities for exploration.
Perhaps the real miracle of Antigua is its resilience. Despite earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and floods, followed by virtual abandonment, it has re-emerged with a vengeance, buoyed by the pride of its inhabitants.
When to Go
ABlessed with a springlike climate year round, Antigua is a great destination at any time.
AAmple sunshine prevails most days with slightly cooler temperatures from mid-May to October when afternoon downpours are the norm.
AAntigua's biggest deal is Semana Santa (Holy Week), which precedes Easter, when religious processions enliven the streets, passion plays are performed and hotels are fully booked.
AOther particularly lively times include Corpus Christi (May/June) and All Saints' Day (November 1) with obligatory feasts of fiambre (chilled mixed salad) and festive visits to the graveyard.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Sleep
Antigua Highlights
1 Language lessons Resurrecting your high-school Spanish at such highly regarded language schools as Proyecto Lingüístico Francisco Marroquín.
2 Ruins Witnessing scattered slabs of masonry, such as at the Catedral de Santiago, that display mute evidence of Antigua's quake-ridden history.
3 Traditional handicrafts Admiring and acquiring traditional Maya wear at Casa del Tejido Antiguo, with its seminal collection of huipiles (embroidered tunics) and cortes (wraparound skirts).
4 Bar scene Sampling a clandestine mescal at Café No Sé, the low-lit lair of choice for Antigua's expats.
5 Volcanoes Scaling Acatenango for jaw-dropping views of its sister volcanoes, including fire-spewing Fuego.
6 Coffee Savoring volcanic coffee beans at the Centro Cultural La Azotea.
Antigua
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
1Sights
Echoes of the city's former grandeur are everywhere, rewarding a stroll in any direction. At the heart of it all, verdant Parque Central, surrounded by superb colonial administrative buildings, makes an excellent place to begin explorations. Dotted around town are dozens of ecclesiastical complexes established by the myriad Catholic orders in the city's heyday, now in various states of decay. Once glorious in their gilded baroque finery, Antigua's churches and monasteries have suffered indignities from both nature and humankind. Rebuilding after earthquakes gave the churches thicker walls, lower towers and belfries, and unembellished interiors. Furthermore, moving the capital to Guatemala City deprived Antigua of the population needed to maintain the churches in their traditional richness, though they remain impressive. Aside from their architectural interest, most of the complexes feature tranquil cloisters and gardens, and a few contain museums, notably the Convento de Santo Domingo.
Parque Central & Around
Palacio de los Capitanes GeneralesHISTORIC BUILDING
(Palace of the Captains General;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%7832-2868; www.centroculturalrealpalacio.org.gt; 5a Calle Poniente; 
h9am-4:30pm Wed-Sun)
F
Dating from 1549, the palace was colonial headquarters for all of Central America, from Chiapas to Costa Rica, until the capital was relocated in 1776. The stately double-arcaded facade that anchors the south side of the plaza is all that remains of the original complex. Following extensive renovations, the palace now serves as a cultural center with art exhibits and performances.
Catedral de SantiagoCATHEDRAL
(
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; cnr 4a Av Norte & 5a Calle Oriente; ruins Q8; hruins 9am-5pm, parish 6:30am-noon & 3-6:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am-noon & 3-7pm Sat, 5:30am-1pm & 3-7:30pm Sun)
Antigua's cathedral was begun in 1545, wrecked by the quake of 1773, and only partially rebuilt over the next century. The present sliver of a church – the parish of San José – occupies only the entrance hall of the original edifice. Behind it are the roofless ruins of the main part of the cathedral, which is entered from 5a Calle Oriente.
The ruin is a haunting place, with massive chunks of pillars strewn beneath sweeping brick archways and vegetation sprouting from cracks in the walls. Reproductions of the intricate plasterwork figures and moldings between the arches seem all that more impressive against the ruined backdrop. Behind the main altar, steps lead down to a former crypt, now serving as a chapel, with a smoke-blackened Christ.
Antiguo Colegio de la Compañía de JesúsHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
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; %7932-3838; www.aecid-cf.org.gt; 6a Av Norte; h9am-6pm)F
Established in 1626, the Jesuit monastery and college was a vital component of Antigua life until the order was expelled in 1767; just six years later, the great earthquake left it in ruins. Rescued from the rubble by the Spanish government, the complex has been reborn as a cultural center, the Centro de Formación de la Cooperación Española.
The former offices, classrooms and refectories now contain lecture halls, exhibit spaces, a fashionable cafe and an excellent library. The three cloisters have been made over with fine wood columns and balconies, a brilliant setting for photo exhibits, concerts, films and festivals. One component remains respectfully unrestored, though: the Compañía de Jesús church, the grand facade of which stands to the left of the main entrance of the complex.
Palacio del AyuntamientoHISTORIC BUILDING
(City Hall Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4a Calle Poniente)
This double-decker structure on the north side of the park dates from the 18th century. Besides town offices, the palace houses the Museo del Libro Antiguo (Old Book Museum;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-5511; Q30; h9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon & 2-4pm Sat & Sun), showcasing the early days of Guatemalan printing. The stone benches beneath the lower arcade make a fine people-watching perch.
Central Antigua
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
West of Parque Central
Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Señora de la MercedCHURCH, MONASTERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; monastery ruins Q15; hchurch 6am-noon & 3-8pm, ruins 8:30am-5:30pm)
At the northern end of 5a Av is La Merced – a striking yellow building trimmed with plaster filigree. The squat, thick-walled structure was built to withstand earthquakes, and three centuries after its construction it remains in good shape. Only the church is still in use; a candlelit procession, accompanied by bell ringing and firecrackers, starts and ends there on the last Thursday evening of each month.
Inside the monastery ruins is a fountain 27m in diameter, said to be the largest in Hispanic America. It's in the shape of a water lily (traditionally a symbol of power for Maya lords), and lily motifs also appear on the church's entrance arch. Go upstairs for a bird's-eye view of the fountain and the town.
Iglesia y Convento de la RecolecciónRUINS
(
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; Av de la Recolección; Q40; h9am-5pm)
A serene air pervades the remains of the monastery of La Recolección, which stands well west of the center. Erected in the early 1700s by the Récollets (a French branch of the Franciscan order), its church was one of the largest in Antigua at the time. The earthquake of 1773 toppled the structure, of which only the great arched doorway remains intact.
Beyond are strewn the massive chunks of masonry that formed the original walls. The adjoining cloisters, laid out on an equally grand scale, have been cleared of debris and have variously served as fairgrounds and swimming pool following the complex's short life as a monastery.
Casa del Tejido AntiguoMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-3169; Calle de la Recolección 51; Q15; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
This space is like a museum, market and workshop all rolled into one, with exhibits on regional outfits and daily demonstrations of backstrap weaving techniques. Founder Alicia Pérez, an indigenous Kaqchiquel woman, is an expert on the significance of designs that appear on the tocoyales (head coverings), tzutes (shawls) and huipiles displayed here. Weaving classes are offered.
Colegio de San JerónimoRUINS
(Real Aduana;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Calz de Santa Lucía Norte & Calle de la Recolección; Q40; h9am-5pm)
Completed in 1757, the Colegio de San Jerónimo was used as a school by friars of the Merced order, but because it did not have royal authorization, it was taken over by Spain's Carlos III and, in 1765, designated for use as the Royal Customs House. Today it's a tranquil, mostly open-air site in an excellent state of preservation.
The handsome cloister centers upon an octagonal fountain, an evocative setting for occasional dance and other cultural performances. Upstairs you'll find excellent photo angles of Volcán Agua through stone archways.
Cementerio GeneralCEMETERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle San Bartolome Becerra; h7am-noon & 2-6pm)
Antigua's municipal cemetery, southwest of the market and bus terminal, is a conglomeration of tombs and mausoleums decked with wreaths, exotic flowers and other signs of mourning. Proatur offers an escort to this out-of-the-way site on request.
East of Parque Central
Iglesia y Convento de Santo DomingoMONASTERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7820-1220; 3a Calle Oriente 28; Q42; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11:45am-6pm Sun)
Founded by Dominican friars in 1542, Santo Domingo became the biggest and richest monastery in Antigua. Following three 18th-century earthquakes, the buildings were pillaged for construction material. The site was acquired as a private residence in 1970 by a North American archaeologist, who performed extensive excavations before it was taken over by the Casa Santo Domingo Hotel.
The archaeological zone has been innovatively restored as a 'cultural route.' It includes the picturesque ruined monastery church, the adjacent cloister with a replica of the original fountain, workshops for candle and pottery makers, and two underground crypts that were discovered during the church excavations. One of these, the Calvary Crypt, contains a well-preserved mural of the Crucifixion dating from 1683.
Also part of the archaeological zone are six museums, which can all be visited with one admission ticket. This museum route may be entered either through the hotel or the Universidad de San Carlos extension on 1a Av Norte. Starting from the hotel side, the route includes the following museums: the Museo de la Platería, with silver-work masterpieces including incense burners, candelabras and crowns; the Museo Colonial, with canvases and wood sculpture on religious themes from the 16th to 18th centuries; the Museo Arqueológico, with ceramic and stone objects from the Maya Classic period; the Museo de Arte Precolombino y Vidrio Moderno, with glass works by modern artists and the pre-Hispanic ceramic pieces that inspired them; the Museo de Artes y Artesanías Populares de Sacatepéquez, with exhibits on traditional handicrafts from the Antigua region; and the Museo de la Farmacia, a restored version of a 19th-century apothecary's shop from Guatemala City.
A recently added component to the complex is a cultural park upon Cerro Santa Inés, a hill located 1km to the southeast of the monastery complex. Aside from stunning views of Antigua and Volcán Agua, Santo Domingo del Cerro offers a museum devoted to artist Efraín Recinos, whose murals and sculptures (including one featuring his VW bug) grace the gardens. Another small museum covers Pope John Paul II's 2002 visit to Guatemala. A free shuttle service runs from the hotel to Santo Domingo del Cerro every 15 minutes.
La Antigua Galería de ArteGALLERY
(
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; %7832-2124; www.laantiguagaleria.com; 4a Calle Oriente 15; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun)F
Displaying works by more than 70 artists, most Guatemalan, in the halls and patio of a colonial mansion, Antigua's premier art gallery merits an extended visit.
Iglesia de San FranciscoCHURCH, MONASTERY
(
MAP
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; %7882-4438; cnr 7a Calle Oriente & Calle de los Pasos; museum & monastery adult/child Q6/3; h9am-5:30pm)
This church is imbued with the spirit of Hermano Pedro de San José de Bethancourt, a Franciscan monk who founded a hospital for the poor in Antigua and earned the gratitude of generations. On the south side are the ruins of the adjoining monastery, with some vivid frescoes still visible amid the rubble.
Hermano Pedro's intercession is still sought by the ill, who pray fervently by his tomb, housed in an elaborate pavilion since his canonization in 2002. Devotees may enter via a garden north of the church. A museum is haphazardly strewn with relics from the church and Santo Hermano's well-preserved personal belongings, while the corridor is plastered with thank-you notes for miracles attributed to the saint.
Convento de CapuchinasCONVENT
(Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza;
MAP
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; cnr 2a Av Norte & 2a Calle Oriente; adult/student Q40/20; h9am-5pm)
Inaugurated in 1736 by nuns from Madrid, the convent of Las Capuchinas was seriously damaged by the 1773 earthquake and thereafter abandoned. Thanks to meticulous renovations in recent decades, it's possible to get a sense of the life experienced by those cloistered nuns, who ran an orphanage and women's hospital.
Wander round to admire the fine cloister with its stout columns and high arched passageways, remarkably restored washbasins and well-tended gardens. At the rear you'll find the convent's most unique feature, a towerlike structure of 18 nuns' cells built around a circular patio.
Iglesia y Convento de Santa ClaraRUINS
(
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; 2a Av Sur, btwn 6a & 7a Calles Oriente; Q40; h9am-5pm)
Established by sisters from Puebla, Mexico, Santa Clara was inaugurated in 1734, destroyed four decades later by the great quake and abandoned. Fortunately some elements of the original structure remain intact, such as the church's stonework facade, the arched niches along the nave that served as confessionals, and an underground chamber where provisions were stored. Most captivating of all is the cloister, centering on a fountain bordered by gardens, though only one side of the upper-level arcade is still in place.
Choco MuseoMUSEUM
(
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; %7832-4520; www.chocomuseo.com; 4a Calle Oriente 14; h10am-6:30pm Sun-Thu, to 7:30pm Fri & Sat; 
c)F
It was the Maya who discovered the culinary uses of the cacao bean, which later became a form of currency for the Aztec empire. These are a few of the things you'll learn at this kid-friendly expo, the Antigua branch of a hemisphere-wide project. The museum also offers chocolate-making workshops and cacao plantation tours.
A branch of the museum, on 5a Av Norte, a block north of Parque Central, features an attractive courtyard where you can whip up and enjoy your own Maya chocolate.
SAINT HERMANO PEDRO
The spirit of Hermano Pedro, Antigua's most venerated Christian, looms large more than three centuries after his death. The saint's tomb, inside the Iglesia de San Francisco, overflows with devotional plaques, amulets and tokens from the faithful offering gratitude for his miraculous healing powers. Antigua's only public hospital, southeast of Parque Central, was dubbed in his honor and carries on his mission of providing health services to those unable to afford them.
Born on Tenerife in the Canary Islands in 1627, Pedro de Bethancourt labored as a shepherd until he hung up his staff at the age of 24 and made for Guatemala to help the poor, though the arduous journey left Pedro himself impoverished. Further hardship awaited when he flunked his studies at the Franciscan seminary in Antigua. Undaunted, he took to picking up dying Maya off the streets and treating them during the plagues of the 1600s. He had found his true calling, and a few years later he built a hospital devoted to healing the indigent, then built homeless shelters and schools for poor students. His efforts gave rise to a new religious order, the Bethlehemites, which took on his mantle after his death in 1667. To this day, flocks of devotees visit his tomb, a phenomenon the Vatican recognized when Pope John Paul II canonized the good brother in 2002, making him Guatemala's only officially authorized saint.
2Activities
Antigua has a number of professional, established outfits offering a range of activities. Drop into the local offices to chat about possibilities.
For those wanting to move to a different beat, you can learn to dance at several places around town. New Sensation Salsa Studio (
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; %5033-0921; 7a Av Norte 78; per hour Q85) offers one-on-one instruction in salsa, merengue, bachata and cha-cha.
Old Town Outfitters can take you on a three-day trek through the Western Highlands, following the Maya trade routes that linked Lago de Atitlán to Quetzaltenango.
Old Town Outfitters has a popular range of guided half-day mountain-bike rides (Q400) in the hills around Antigua, at varying levels of difficulty. Its two-day Pedal & Paddle Tour (Q2075 per person with three or more people) includes kayaking and hiking at Lago de Atitlán.
Old Town OutfittersADVENTURE SPORTS
(
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; %5399-0440; www.adventureguatemala.com; 5a Av Sur 12C)
S
Mountain-biking, rock-climbing, kayaking and trekking are among the high-energy activities offered by this highly responsible operator, which works with guides from local communities. It also rents quality mountain bikes (Q125/200 per half/whole day).
Ox ExpeditionsADVENTURE SPORTS
(
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; %5801-4301; www.oxexpeditions.com; 7a Calle Poniente 17)
Offers rigorous climbing opportunities in the area, plus such adrenaline-fueled activities as paragliding, surfing and zip-lining. Part of their profits go to local environmental projects.
Ravenscroft Riding StablesHORSEBACK RIDING
(%7830-6669; 2a Av Sur 3, San Juan del Obispo; per hour beginner/experienced riders Q190/230)
This outfit, 3km south of Antigua on the road to Santa María de Jesús, offers English-style riding, with scenic rides of two to three hours around the foothills of Volcán Agua.
VOLUNTEERING
Many of Antigua's language schools, such as Academia de Español Sevilla, Antigüeña Spanish Academy and Cambio Spanish School (
MAP
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; %7832-8033; www.cambiospanishschool.com; 4a Calle Oriente 28), can help you find volunteer work.
Volcano Ascents
All three volcanoes overlooking Antigua – Agua, Acatenango and Fuego – are tempting challenges. How close you can get to Fuego depends on recent levels of activity. In many ways the twin-peaked Acatenango (3975m), overlooking Fuego, is the most exhilarating summit. For an active-volcano experience many people take tours to Pacaya (2552m), 25km southeast of Antigua (a 1½-hour drive).
Old Town Outfitters leads strenuous hikes up Volcán Acatenango, traversing four ecosystems to reach the summit (Q1070, including lunch and transport to the trailhead in the village of La Soledad). The expedition departs at 5am. Overnight hikes are another option, camping just below the treeline, then ascending to the summit the following morning (Q1300 per person with two people).
Most agencies run seven-hour Pacaya trips daily for Q90 (leaving Antigua at 6am and 2pm); food and drinks are not included, nor is the Q50 admission to the Pacaya protected area. It takes about 1½ hours to make the steep ascent to the simmering black cone. (If you're out of breath, kids will rent you horses on the way up.) From the summit there are stupendous views northwest to Agua and northeast to Lago de Atitlán. The descent is quicker as you slide down the powdery slope.
Ascents of Volcán Agua (3766m) take off from the village of Santa María de Jesús (Q3.50 from Antigua bus terminal) on the volcano's northeast slopes. You can hire INGUAT-authorized guides (one day/overnight Q200/250 per person, plus park entry fee of Q40) from the tourist office just off Santa María's Parque Central. Note that a high number of assaults on the slopes have been reported; guides recommend that those attempting the climb hire a police escort (Q300) as an additional precaution.
ANTIGUA FOR CHILDREN
With gaudily painted buses roving around town, rainbow candles burning in the churches and gigantic volcanoes in the background, Antigua holds an innate magic that appeals to children. Within most of the monastic complexes are parklike expanses where kids can run around amid the ruined walls and fountains. The craft shop Nim Po't overflows with colorful kites and tiny replicas of those buses to look at, while the market holds many novel sights, sounds and smells. At the Choco Museo, you can make your own chocolate confections. Lunchtime at Posada de Don Rodrigo is a festive affair with marimbas making music, and there are matinee movies at the Centro de Formación de la Cooperación Española every Saturday. Otherwise, take the kids up to Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) for mesmerizing views of the town and surrounding volcanoes, sign up with Ravenscroft Riding Stables for a bit of horseback riding, or consider a trip to Earth Lodge, a kid-friendly retreat with a playground, fanciful cabins and plenty of hiking trails.
CCourses
Antigua's Spanish-language schools attract students from around the world. There are dozens of schools to choose from. Price, teaching quality and student satisfaction vary greatly. Often the quality of instruction depends upon the particular teacher and, thus, may vary even within a single school. Visit a few schools before you choose and, if possible, talk to people who have studied recently at schools you like the look of – you're bound to run into a few. The INGUAT tourist office has a list of authorized schools.
Classes start every Monday at most schools, though you can usually be placed with a teacher any day of the week. Most schools cater for all levels and allow you to stay as long as you like. Three or four weeks is typical, though it's perfectly OK to do just one week. The busiest seasons are during January and from April to August, and some schools request advance reservations for these times.
Instruction is nearly always one-on-one and costs Q1000 to Q1800 per week for four hours of classes daily, five days a week. Most schools offer to arrange room and board with local families, usually with your own room and three meals daily (except Sunday), for around Q800 per week (a bit more with private bathroom). Some schools may offer accommodations in guesthouses or their own hostels.
Homestays are meant to promote the total immersion concept of language learning, but this becomes less viable where there are several foreigners staying with one family or where there are separate mealtimes for students and the family. Indeed, there are so many foreigners about Antigua, it takes some real discipline to converse in Spanish rather than your native tongue. Many enjoy this social scene, but if you think it may deter you, consider studying in Quetzaltenango, El Petén or elsewhere, where there are fewer foreign students.
Academia de Español SevillaLANGUAGE
(
MAP
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; %7832-5101; www.sevillantigua.com; 1a Av Sur 17C)
This well-managed institute offers plenty of free activities, and they can arrange volunteer work in local community projects. One-on-one classes are conducted amid the remnants of a colonial monastery. Shared student housing is offered as an accommodations option.
oProyecto Lingüístico Francisco MarroquínLANGUAGE
(
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; %7832-1422; www.spanishschoolplfm.com; 6a Av Norte 43)S
Antigua's oldest Spanish school, founded in 1969, is run by a nonprofit foundation to preserve indigenous languages and culture, with capacity to teach K'iche' and Kaqchiquel, among other Maya tongues.
Escuela de Español San José el ViejoLANGUAGE
(
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; %7832-3028; www.sanjoseelviejo.com; 5a Av Sur 34)
Long-standing school with parklike study environment, complete with tennis court and pool and its own tasteful accommodations. Students may switch teachers each week. Accredited by the Guatemalan Ministry of Education.
Christian Spanish AcademyLANGUAGE
(
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; %7832-3922; www.learncsa.com; 6a Av Norte 15)
Originally established to train missionaries, this modern outfit is favored by mature language learners with specific professional needs.
Escuela de Español Tecún UmánLANGUAGE
(
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; %5513-4349; www.tecunumanschool.com; 6a Calle Poniente 34A)
Long-standing Guatemalan-run outfit with university-trained staff. Classes are held on the pleasant rooftop terrace of a nearby cafe.
Antigüeña Spanish AcademyLANGUAGE
(
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; %5735-4638; www.spanishacademyantiguena.com; 1a Calle Poniente 10)
Oft-recommended school, authorized by the Ministry of Education. It can arrange volunteer work for social workers at Hermano Pedro hospital on request.
Centro Lingüístico MayaLANGUAGE
(
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; %7832-0656; www.clmaya.com; 5a Calle Poniente 20)
Large, professionally managed, pricier institute with 30 years of experience in training diplomatic personnel and journalists.
El Frijol FelizCOOKING
(
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; %7832-5274; www.frijolfeliz.com; 4a Av Sur 1; 3hr class Q350)
Hands-on instruction preparing Guatemalan meals; students may choose their own menu.
TTours
INGUAT-authorized guides around Parque Central offer city walking tours, with visits to convents, ruins and museums, for around Q80 per person. Similar guided walks are offered daily by Antigua travel agencies such as Atitrans. Also on offer are trips to the surrounding villages and coffee plantations.
Elizabeth Bell, a local scholar of Antigua history, or her knowledgeable associates lead three-hour cultural walking tours of the town (in English and/or Spanish) on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday mornings. The cost is Q190. Reservations can be made through Antigua Tours (
MAP
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; %7832-5821; www.antiguatours.net; 3a Calle Oriente 22; tour incl museum fees Q190), inside the Café Condesa off Parque Central; groups congregate at the park's fountain at the appointed hour. Bell's book, Antigua Guatemala: The City and its Heritage, is well worth picking up: it has extensive descriptions of all the monuments and neatly encapsulates the city's history and fiestas. Bell and company also offer tours to the nearby villages of San Antonio Aguas Calientes and San Andrés Itzapa to investigate weaving workshops and Maya shrines, respectively.
La Antigua City Tour (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-6151; www.antiguacitytour.com; Q200; h9am-5pm) runs a little bus around town, hitting all the key sites from Cerro de la Cruz to Parque Central.
De la Gente (%5585-4450; www.dlgcoffee.org; tour per person (min 2 people) Q200) offers tours of coffee plantations around San Miguel Escobar, a suburb of Ciudad Vieja, with local growers demonstrating cultivation, harvesting and processing techniques. At the end, participants are guided through traditional roasting methods and share a cup with the family. Tours (three to five hours) depart at 9am or 1pm and should be booked at least a day in advance.
Agencies also offer tours to more distant places, including Tikal, the Cobán area, Monterrico, Chichicastenango and Lago de Atitlán (although these options often depart from Guatemala City). Two-day trips to Tikal, flying from the capital to Flores and back, start at Q3000 per person. Two-day land tours to Copán (some including Quiriguá and Río Dulce) run around Q1140 per person.
CATours (
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-9638; www.catours.co.uk; 6a Calle Oriente 14; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) offers two-day motorbike tours to Lago de Atitlán or Monterrico from Q1435.
2City Walk
Splendor in the Ruins
Start Cerro de La Cruz
End Café Condesa
Length 2.3km; 2½ hours
For the big picture, take a taxi up 1Cerro de La Cruz, north of town. Beyond the stone cross that gives the hill its name, Antigua spreads out, with the majestic Volcán Agua as a backdrop. Descend the wooded slopes via the path to the left. At the bottom, turn right down a cobblestone street. You'll come to a basketball court backed by the ruins of 2Iglesia de la Candelaria. Examine it closely – there's a lot going on between the swirly columns. Proceed one block south to a small plaza, then head left alongside a high yellow wall to glimpse the 3Templo de Santa Rosa de Lima, a small church with an elaborate facade that stands on a private estate. Turn around and head west along jacaranda-lined Alameda de Santa Rosa. Take the first left, onto 2a Av Norte, past an ironworks shop. At the next corner on the right are the ruins of the 4Convento de Capuchinas, with its unique tower. Go right on 2a Calle Oriente. Passing 3a Av Norte, look down to your left to see the multicolumned facade of 5Iglesia El Carmen and the adjacent handicrafts market. Continue another block west and turn right on 4a Av Norte. Near the next corner on the right is the old 6Convento de Santa Teresa, which until recently served as the men's prison. Go left on 1a Calle Poniente. You'll see the yellow bell tower of the 7Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced. Turn left down 5a Av Norte, jam-packed with tourist-friendly locales, including the handicrafts center, 8Nim Po't. Proceed beneath the 9Arco de Santa Catalina. A remnant of the 17th-century convent that stood here (now occupied by a luxury hotel and B&B), the tunnel-like arch enabled nuns to cross the street unseen. Continue down 5a Av Norte to aParque Central. Ascend to the balcony of the bPalacio del Ayuntamiento for photo ops of the square and nearby cCatedral de Santiago. Finally, stop into the dCafé Condesa, on the square's west side, for a well-deserved cappuccino and wedge of pie.
zFestivals & Events
The most exciting time to be in Antigua is Semana Santa (Easter), when hundreds of devotees garbed in deep purple robes bear revered icons from their churches in daily street processions in remembrance of Christ's crucifixion and the events surrounding it. Dense clouds of incense envelop the parades and the streets are covered in elaborate alfombras (carpets) of colored sawdust and flower petals. These fragile works of art are destroyed as the processions shuffle over them, but are re-created each morning for another day of parades.
The fervor and the crowds peak on Good Friday, when an early-morning procession departs from La Merced, and a late afternoon one leaves from the Escuela de Cristo (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Calle de los Pasos & Calle de Belén; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Thu-Tue). There may also be an enactment of the crucifixion in Parque Central (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; btwn 4a Calle & 5a Calle). Have ironclad Antigua room reservations well in advance of Semana Santa, or plan to stay in Guatemala City or elsewhere and commute to the festivities.
Processions, velaciones (vigils) and other events actually go on every weekend through Lent, the 40-day period prior to Semana Santa. Antigua's tourist office has schedules of everything, and the booklet Lent and Holy Week in Antigua by Elizabeth Bell gives explanations.
4Sleeping
With an estimated 140 hotels, posadas (guesthouses) and hostels, Antigua has a wide range of accommodations to suit any traveler's style or budget. Some of Antigua's midrange hotels allow you to wallow in colonial charm for a moderate outlay of cash. Rates listed are for Friday and Saturday nights, and customarily drop around 20% during the week. Finding a room is generally a simple task, with the major exception of Semana Santa, for which you should book as far ahead as possible and be prepared to pay double normal rates.
oYellow HouseHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-6646; yellowhouseantigua@hotmail.com; 1a Calle Poniente 24; dm incl breakfast Q70, s/d without bathroom incl breakfast Q110/200; 
i)S
Thoughtfully designed, ecologically conscious and damn friendly, this makes a fine budget choice. Rooms vary in style and size, but comfy beds, recessed lighting and screened windows are the norm. It can get crowded with just three bathrooms downstairs, but they're kept clean and use solar-heated water. The plant-filled terrace is perfect for enjoying the huge, healthy breakfast served each morning.
oEl HostalHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-0442; www.elhostal-antigua.com; 1a Av Sur 8; dm incl breakfast Q90, s/d/tr without bathroom Q200/270/360; 
W)
Within stumbling distance of the popular Café No Sé, El Hostal is a cordially run budget option with a bit of colonial style. Set around a cheery little patio-cafe are half a dozen neatly kept private rooms and dorms with sturdy single beds or well-spaced bunks, a few sticks of furniture and creatively painted walls.
There's a sparkling guest kitchen and good gas-heated showers.
Tropicana HostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-0462; www.tropicanahostel.com; 6a Calle Poniente 2; dm Q70, r with/without bathroom Q300/200; W
s)
The new standard for party hostels, the Tropicana is a smash hit. Check in any time you like and join the flock of global youth sunning by the poolside bar or soaking in the hot tub against a backdrop of ruins. Mixed-gender dorms feature as many as 15 beds (on three tiers), each with built-in lockers, privacy curtains and smartphone docks.
Zoola AntiguaHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-0364; www.zoolaantigua.wix.com/zoola; 7a Calle Poniente 15; dm/r incl breakfast Q70/180; W)
The Antigua branch of the Israeli-run hostel on Lago de Atitlán translates successfully to a colonial setting: sparsely furnished dorms surround an open courtyard where global travelers chill and nosh on healthy Middle Eastern snacks beneath a rainbow canopy. New chillage options include a spectacular roof-terrace bar with hot tub.
Hostal AntiguaHOSTEL$
(
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; %7832-8090; www.hostalantigua.com; 5a Av Sur 22; dm/d/q Q70/295/340; W
#)
Just a block and a half from Parque Central, this low-key hostel favors cleanliness and comfort over frenetic socializing. Twelve- and four-bed dorms and private rooms, featuring sturdy wood beds and ceiling fans, line up along a pretty leafy corridor. Up above is a roof terrace with guest kitchen and tiled tables.
Bigfoot HostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-0489; www.bigfoothostelantigua.com; 6a Av Norte; dm/d/tr/q Q75/225/275/325; 
aW)
Newly renovated by a Nicaragua-based outfit, this place is always hopping, both as a hostel and bar. Though the tall, narrow structure remains cramped, dorms feature comfy carved-wood beds with curtains for privacy and roomy lockers, and air-con is available. Perks for global youth include a pool table, TV lounge, snack bar and the ever-popular Monday pub crawl.
Villa EsthelaHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-5162; www.hostelantigua.com; 2a Av Sur 48, Casa A-3; dm/r Q45/150; W)
Run by a Dutch expat, this humble but popular hostel is in a quiet part of town five blocks south of Parque Central. Approached down an alley, the old house contains a six-bed dorm with metal bunk beds and several private rooms sharing basic bathrooms. Budget travelers get together in the TV lounge or relax up on the terrace.
Terrace HostelHOSTEL$
(
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; %7832-3463; www.terracehostel.com; 3a Calle Poniente 24; dm incl breakfast Q70, r incl breakfast without bathroom Q200; W)
The key feature at this fun-filled establishment is the rooftop terrace, a fabulous perch for both volcano views and Q10 Brahvas (happy hour starts at noon). Below deck, rooms are fairly bare, but kept tidy. Don't miss the Monday pub crawl, taking off from here at 3pm.
Hotel BurkhardHOTEL$
(
MAP
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; %7832-4316; hotelburkhard@hotmail.com; 3a Calle Oriente 19A; r Q150; W)
This tiny establishment has a dozen compact, colorfully decorated rooms over two levels.
Casa JacarandaHOSTEL$
(
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; %7832-7589; www.casajacaranda.hotel.com; 1a Calle Poniente 37; dm incl breakfast Q95, s/d incl breakfast without bathroom Q115/230; iW)
At this original hostel (not a party center), the rooms (all sharing bathrooms) are simple but display a bit of flair. So does the airy front lounge, with plasma TV and a mural after Klimt (except the female figure is garbed in a huipil). If possible, stay out back behind the jacaranda, a tranquil retreat from the traffic.
An abundant breakfast is served.
Posada Los BúcarosBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-2346; www.hotelbucaros.com; 7a Av Norte 94; s/d Q300/400; 
pWs)
West of La Merced in a quiet zone of pretty cobbled streets, this converted 150-year-old residence strikes a nice balance between colonial splendor and contemporary comfort. Rooms with pastel walls and high wood-beam ceilings open onto three lushly planted courtyards graced with los búcaros – semicircular fountains that are set into the walls.
Posada de San CarlosHOSTEL, HOTEL$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-4698; www.posadadesancarlos.com; 5a Calle Poniente 11; dm/r incl breakfast Q60/300; W#)
A hip global inn with an emphasis on comfort, the San Carlos features spacious rooms along a corridor that opens onto a neat patio with fountain. Both private rooms and the seven-bed dorm have colonial flair, with carved wood beds and chests, plus LED TVs. The front cafe whips up tasty natural fare and there are fat-tire bikes on loan.
Posada Juma OcagHOTEL$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-3109; www.posadajumaocag.com; Calz Santa Lucia Norte 13; s/d Q150/200; W)
Juma Ocag's seven spotless, comfortable rooms have quality mattresses and traditional appointments including wrought-iron bedsteads, armoires and mirrors crafted in-house, and there's a spiffy little kitchen for guests. Despite the hectic location opposite the market, it remains peaceful – especially the upstairs rooms – with a rooftop patio and well-tended little garden. Reservations are accepted in person only.
Casa CristinaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
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; %7832-0623; www.casa-cristina.com; Callejón Camposeco 3A; s/d downstairs Q190/230, s/d upstairs Q270/340; W)
There are just a dozen rooms at this hotel on a pretty backstreet near La Merced. Though compact, all are quaintly appointed with típico (traditional) bedspreads, brushed-on pastels and wood-stained furniture, and the plant-laden roof terrace makes a nice retreat. Muy tranquilo.
Posada San SebastiánGUESTHOUSE$$
(
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; %7832-2621; www.posadasansebastian.com; 3a Av Norte 4; s/d/tr Q420/490/570; W)
As carpenter, antique restorer and occasional xylophone player, Luis Méndez Rodríguez is the auteur of this converted mansion. Each of the nine uniquely appointed rooms display his knack for finding and refurbishing art and furniture. Big bathrooms with tub are a bonus, as are the roof terrace, pretty little courtyard garden and use of a kitchen.
Hotel Palacio ChicoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(Casa 1940;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-3895; http://1940.palaciochico.com; 7a Av Norte 15; s/d/tr incl breakfast Q330/435/510; W)
Though on the small side, rooms at this stylish establishment are nicely decked out, with classic tile work, crafted iron bed frames and sponged-on paint. Get a pedicure at the ground-level spa or catch some rays on the top-deck terrace.
Hotel Posada San Pedro IIHOTEL$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-4122; www.posadasanpedro.net; 7a Av Norte 29; s/d/tr Q270/345/380; p)
Somebody has restored this place with a whole lot of love and attention to detail. Rooms are spacious and well-furnished and look out onto two lush patios surrounded by hanging plants.
Hotel Posada San PedroHOTEL$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-3594; www.posadasanpedro.net; 3a Av Sur 15; s/d/tr Q230/300/345)
The 10 rooms at the San Pedro are neat and inviting, with swabbed-on mustard or chocolate tones, azulejo-tiled bathrooms and cable TV. A guest kitchen, several spacious sitting rooms and two terraces with great views add to the comfortable, friendly atmosphere.
Hotel la Casa de Don IsmaelHOTEL$$
(
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; %7832-1932; www.casadonismael.com; 3a Calle Poniente 6, Lotificación Cofiño 2a Callejón; s/d Q165/250, incl breakfast Q215/335; W)
Expect to share the premises with the family at this homey, humble guesthouse, hidden down a side street and overseen by its kind, cordial namesake. Seven rustic rooms share three hot-water bathrooms, and there's a pleasant roof terrace.
Las GolondrinasAPARTMENT$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-3343; aptslasgolondrinas@gmail.com; 6a Av Norte 34; s/d Q150/250; W)
The humble apartments here are an excellent option for self-caterers. Units are set around a tranquil, tree-studded garden, and all feature front terraces suitable for alfresco dining. The place is run by an inveterate traveler who's climbed hundreds of volcanoes. Good weekly and monthly discounts are available.
Hotel Santa ClaraHOTEL$$
(
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; %7832-0342; www.hotelsantaclaraantigua.com; 2a Av Sur 20; s/d/tr Q290/400/480; p)
In a quiet area south of the center, the Santa Clara boasts brilliantly restored antique chambers alongside a small courtyard, with carved-wood bedsteads and skylights set into the roof beams. Toward the rear are two levels of newer, mostly brighter rooms, with glimpses of the Iglesia de San Francisco from the upper level.
Hotel Posada La MercedHOTEL$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-3197; www.posadalamercedantigua.com; 7a Av Norte 43; s/d from Q275/350; p
nW)
Behind the big wooden doors, La Merced sports a modern interior. Rooms in the rear section have a bit more pizzazz (and are pricier), with típico weavings and colonial furniture. Bonuses include a rooftop terrace, well-appointed guest kitchen, morning coffee and gracious staff.
Hotel Casa RústicaHOTEL$$
(
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; %7832-3709; www.casarusticagt.com; 6a Av Norte 8; s/d Q350/425, without bathroom Q280/340; iW)
Everything about the 'rustic house' feels right, from the lily-shaped fountain in the patio to the tiled tables on the top deck. It's also one of the few hotels in this price range to offer guests full kitchen access, not to mention a pool table and entertainment lounge. Attractively done up with regional textiles, the 14 rooms occupy two buildings.
oPosada del ÁngelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-0260; www.posadadelangel.com; 4a Av Sur 24A; r/ste from Q1480/2270; pWs)
The Posada became Antigua's most celebrated inn when Bill Clinton bedded down here in 1999. Behind an unassuming garage door, the luxury just keeps unfolding. The five rooms and two suites all have fireplaces, fresh lilies, four-poster beds and highly polished tile floors. If you didn't think it was possible to fit a lap pool into an Antigua patio, stop by.
oMesón Panza VerdeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7955-8282; www.panzaverde.com; 5a Av Sur 19; r/ste from Q765/1410; piWs)
Possibly the ultimate in Antigua luxury, the Panza Verde is cloistered in a serene compound south of the center. The three doubles and nine lavishly appointed suites open onto private terraces amid gardens overflowing with orchids, ferns and bamboo. Along with its renowned restaurant, the hotel also features its own art gallery.
oCasa Santo Domingo HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
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; %7820-1220; www.casasantodomingo.com.gt; 3a Calle Oriente 28A; r from Q1425; piWs)S
Innovatively created from the remains of the sprawling Santo Domingo monastery, this is Antigua's premier lodging. The 128 rooms and suites are of an international five-star standard, while the grounds retain their colonial splendor, dotted with archaeological relics and featuring a large swimming pool, several fine restaurants, shops and five museums. The Dominican friars never had it so good.
Free shuttles from the hotel take you to Santo Domingo del Cerro, a recently developed component of the complex atop a hill to the south, with a fine restaurant, an art and sculpture garden and stunning views.
oHotel Quinta de las FloresHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
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; %7832-3721; www.quintadelasflores.com; Calle del Hermano Pedro 6; s/d from Q495/595, bungalow Q1145; pis)
More a village than a hotel, this property on the southeastern edge of town is bursting with charms. Pebbly paths weave by stands of bird-of-paradise, cobblestoned plazas with weathered fountains, a good-sized pool and an open-air restaurant. There are eight luxurious rooms in the main building, most with fireplaces, and five more 'garden rooms' with private terraces.
There are also two-story casitas (cottages), each with two bedrooms, a kitchen and living room. Considerable discounts are offered for stays by the week.
Hotel El Mesón de MaríaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-6068; www.hotelmesondemaria.com; 3a Calle Poniente 8; s/d incl breakfast from Q790/975; W)
Bask in antique splendor at this impressively restored colonial mansion in the center of town, replete with lushly vegetated courtyards and various luxurious salons. Plush chambers vary in layout, but all feature giant beds with sumptuous spreads and carved headboards, rustic furniture and beautifully tiled bathrooms. Take breakfast or cocktails on the fabulous roof terrace.
Hotel Casa del ParqueBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-0961; www.hotelcasadelparque.com; 4a Av Norte 5; s/d Q745/900; pWs)
One of Antigua's original boutique hotels, this little place near the park combines a designer's eye with colonial charms. Each room has a unique layout, but all are picture perfect. The upstairs units are spectacular, with sweeping views, luxurious baths and minibars. Cheaper downstairs rooms lack views but give easier access to the pool, spa and sauna.
5Eating
For global gourmands, Antigua is a banquet. Within 10 minutes' walk of Parque Central you can dine well and inexpensively on Italian, Belgian, French, Thai, Indian, Irish, Israeli, German, Chinese, Mexican and Salvadoran cuisines.
On Saturday and Sunday, tables are set up in front of Convento La Merced, serving, among other snacks, chicken salad sandwiches, rellenitos, enchiladas, tamales and chuchitos laced with hot sauce and pickled cabbage, along with bowls of atol blanco (corn-based hot beverage). Talk about comfort food!
Note that most formal restaurants in Antigua whack on a 10% tip before presenting the bill. It should be itemized, but if in doubt, ask.
oZoola AntiguaISRAELI$
(
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; www.zoolaantigua.wix.com/zoola; Calle de Santa Lucia 15; salads Q45, sandwiches Q35-50; h8am-10pm; 
v)
The restaurant component of Zoola hostel whips up highly authentic Israeli fare. Nosh on falafel, kebabs or sabich – a wrap stuffed with hummus, eggplant and salad. Seating is at low coffee tables surrounded by pillows. On Friday evenings Zoola offers a buffet-style spread of salads.
oRestaurante Doña Luisa XicotencatlCAFE$
(
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; %7832-2578; 4a Calle Oriente 12; sandwiches & breakfast mains Q20-45; h7am-9:30pm)
Refreshingly local in character, this cafe is a place to enjoy the colonial patio ambiance over breakfast or a light meal. The selection of pastries are from the attached bakery; banana bread comes hot from the oven around 2pm daily.
SamsaraVEGETARIAN$
(
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; %7832-2200; 6a Calle Poniente 33; salads Q40-50; h7am-9pm; v)
At this small veggie cafe, fresh organic ingredients are excitingly combined in soups, salads and drinks – how about a kale, peanut butter and avocado smoothie? For breakfast there's quinoa porridge or banana and amaranth-seed pancakes, along with French-press coffee and numerous tea blends. If you don't mind the new-age soundtrack, Samsara can be a culinary thrill.
Y Tu Piña TambiénSANDWICHES$
(
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; www.ytupinatambien.com; 1a Av Sur 10B; sandwiches & salads Q40-50; h7am-7pm; Wv)
An international crossroads, this natural-foods cafe does healthy, sophisticated fare for foreign students on the go. There's a tempting array of sandwiches (served on whole wheat, pita or bagel) and salads. It opens early and makes a good breakfast stop, with omelets, abundant fruit salads and banana pancakes, plus excellent coffee.
Tienda La CancheGUATEMALAN$
(
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; 6a Av Norte 42; set lunch Q25; h7am-10pm)
A hole in the wall if there ever was one, this eatery behind a 'mom and pop' store consists of just two tables. A couple of traditional options are prepared daily, such as pepián de pollo (a hearty chicken stew containing chunks of huizquil, a yucca-like tuber), accompanied by thick tortillas. Frescos, home-squeezed fruit beverages, are served alongside.
Café CondesaCAFE$
(
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; %7832-0038; www.cafecondesa.com.gt; Portal del Comercio 4; cakes & pies Q20-26; h7am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
Baked goods – pies, cakes, quiches, scones and house-baked whole-wheat sandwich bread – are the strong suit at this grand old cafe set around the patio of a 16th-century mansion off the main square. The lavish Sunday buffet (Q78), from 9am to 1pm, is an Antigua institution.
Fernando's KaffeeCAFE$
(
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; %7832-6953; www.fernandoskaffee.com; cnr 7a Av Norte & Callejón Camposeco; cinnamon rolls Q10, empanadas Q40; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; W)
Long a draw for coffee and chocolate mavens, this friendly corner cafe also bakes an array of fine pastries, including some delightfully gooey cinnamon rolls. Beyond the counter is an inviting patio ideal for a low-key breakfast and linger.
Luna de MielCREPERIE$
(
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; %7882-4559; www.lunademielantigua.com; 6a Av Norte 40; crepes Q34-55; h10am-9:30pm Mon & Tue, 9am-9:30pm Wed-Sun; W)
Loungey Luna de Miel offers dozens of variations on the classic crepe – try the chapín version stuffed with avocado, cheese and fried tomatoes – plus tropical smoothies. As if that weren't enough, the graffitied roof deck makes a remarkably relaxing place to enjoy them.
Casa de las MixtasGUATEMALAN$
(
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; 3a Callejón; mains Q20-30; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)
For down-home Guatemalan fare, try this family-run operation on a quiet backstreet across from the market. Aside from its namesake snack (mixtas are Guatemalan-style hot dogs, wrapped in tortillas), it also serves a range of set breakfasts. Regulars make for the little terrace upstairs.
Travel MenuINTERNATIONAL$
(
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; %7832-2937; 6a Calle Poniente 14; mains Q40-50; hnoon-11pm; v)
This recently renovated and expanded restaurant-bar is indeed aimed at travelers (on a budget), serving up a global greatest hits selection (veggie curries, fish burgers, salads) in a relaxed, roomy space.
oCactus GrillMEXICAN$$
(
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; %7832-2163; 6a Calle Poniente 21; tacos Q45; hnoon-10pm)
Created by a Mexico City native, this colorful little place does a brisk trade in authentic Mexican fare, both traditional and new wave, with superb salsas served in clay bowls. The fish tacos are heartily recommended. It's along the nightlife corridor; start the evening with a chili-fringed margarita or quality mescal from Oaxaca.
El Viejo CaféCAFE$$
(
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; %7832-1576; www.elviejocafe.com; 3a Calle Poniente 12; mains Q50-95; h7am-9pm; W#)
Popular with tourists and chapínes (Guatemalans) alike, this atmospheric cafe strewn with antique curios makes an ideal breakfast stop. Choose from an array of fresh-baked croissants and well-roasted Guatemalan coffees and settle into a window nook.
Hector's BistroFRENCH$$
(
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; %7832-9867; 1a Calle Poniente 9A; mains Q70-175; hnoon-10pm)
This tiny, intimate salon across the way from La Merced has just a few tables, with the kitchen behind the bar. Guatemala City native Hector has garnered acclaim for his versions of bœuf bourguignon, grilled duck breast and so on. There's no proper sign: check the chalkboard for daily specials and the quiche of the week.
Caffé MediterráneoITALIAN$$
(
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; %7882-7180; 6a Calle Poniente 6A; mains Q90-130; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon)
Here you'll find the finest, most authentic Italian food in Antigua, plus superb service, in a lovely candlelit setting. Hailing from Calabria, chef Francesco does a tantalizing array of salads and pasta, using seasonally available ingredients.
Como ComoBELGIAN$$
(
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; %5514-5014; 2a Av Sur 12; mains Q100-150; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun)
Guatemalan ingredients fuse with Euro recipes at this Belgian bistro, popular with the expat crowd. Flemish specialties include waterzooi, a creamy fish stew, and filet americain (steak tartar). Dining is alfresco in the candlelit courtyard.
OrigamiJAPANESE$$
(
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; %7882-4250; 6a Calle Oriente 6; mains Q50-65; hnoon-3pm & 6-9pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 6-9pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun; v)
Rather than striving for authenticity, the Japanese couple who run Origami just serve the sort of things they'd make at home: pulled pork donburi, red curry and wasabi-dressed salad (100% organic) are among the more popular items. It's a cozy place with several salons and some tables in the courtyard. Be sure to try the homemade ginger ale.
Angie AngieARGENTINE$$
(
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; %7832-3352; 1a Av Sur 11A; mains Q65-95; hnoon-11pm Wed-Mon)
Equal parts South American eatery, art gallery and social club, Angie's place is always worth stopping into, if only to lounge around the tropically abundant back garden. Besides the empanadas, mixed grills and homemade pastas, there's a good-value set lunch. Bonfires nightly, plus live blues and jazz on weekends.
EpicureDELI$$
(
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; %7832-5545; 3a Av Norte 11B; sandwiches Q75-90, mains Q90-145; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun)
A good place to stock up on sandwiches for the volcano climb is this Euro-standard deli, with all kinds of gourmet items. Offers elegant open-air dining under the rear arbor.
Quesos y VinoITALIAN$$
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; %7832-7785; 5a Av Norte 32A; pizzas Q60-150; hnoon-4pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon)
This Italian-owned establishment is comprised of three rustic buildings, with a lovely outdoor patio and adjoining deli. Like the restaurant's name, the food is basic and satisfying: hearty soups, well-stuffed sandwiches on homemade bread, salads and wood-fired pizzas. Enter from 1a Calle Poniente.
Posada de Don RodrigoGUATEMALAN$$
(
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; %7832-0387; www.posadadonrodrigo.com; 5a Av Norte 17; mains Q125-150; h6am-10pm)
The seafood crepes, steaks and sausages have a subtle Guatemalan accent here. The real draw, though, is the setting, a gorgeous courtyard with plenty of wrought iron, blossoming flowers and tinkling fountains, with marimbas and painters adding local color.
La Cuevita de Los UrquizúGUATEMALAN$$
(
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; %7882-4532; 2a Calle Oriente 9D; lunch combo Q80; h8am-4pm Mon & Tue, to 8pm Wed-Sun)
Sumptuous típico food is the draw here, all kept warm in earthenware pots out front. Choose from pepián (chicken and vegetables in a piquant sesame and pumpkin seed sauce), kaq'ik (spicy turkey stew), jocón (green stew of chicken or pork with green vegetables and herbs) or other such Guatemalan favorites, and you'll get two accompaniments.
Sabe RicoDELI$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-0648; www.saberico.com.gt; 6a Av Sur 7; sandwiches & salads Q65-80; h8am-7pm Mon & Wed, to 4pm Tue, to 9pm Thu-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun)
This little deli whips up tasty salads and sandwiches, using ingredients from its herb garden. It also offers fresh-baked breads and brownies, fine wines and imported foods. Eat in one of the various salons or stock up for a picnic.
El PapaturroSALVADORAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-0445; 2a Calle Oriente 4; pupusas Q30, mains Q70-85; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun)
This homey spot run by natives of El Salvador serves authentic pupusas – thick tortillas stuffed with cheese or chicharrónes (fried pork fat) and garnished with curtido (marinated cabbage) – and other snacks from Guatemala's southern neighbor in a relaxed courtyard setting. The obvious accompaniment is horchata, a beverage blend of cacao, ice, cinnamon, cashews and more.
FridasMEXICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-1296; 5a Av Norte 29; mains Q75-140; hnoon-midnight)
Dedicated to Ms Kahlo, this ever-busy bar-restaurant does Jalisco-style posole, shrimp tacos and other tasty Mexican fare. Live music on Thursday and Friday evenings.
oMesón Panza VerdeFUSION$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-2925; www.panzaverde.com; 5a Av Sur 19; mains Q150-200; h6-10pm Mon, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun)
The restaurant of the exclusive B&B Mesón Panza Verde dishes up divine continental cuisine in an appealing Antiguan atmosphere. The menu features an eclectic global lineup, with the French-trained chef putting an emphasis on fresh seafood and organic ingredients. Live music (jazz, Cuban) enhances the ambiance Wednesday to Saturday nights.
oBistrot CinqFRENCH$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-5510; www.bistrotcinq.com; 4a Calle Oriente 7; mains Q135-175; hnoon-10:30pm)
Popular among the mature expat crowd, the Cinq is a faithful replica of its Parisian counterparts, offering zesty salads and classic entrees such as mahi-mahi amandine and filet mignon. Check the blackboard for exciting nightly specials. Be sure to make it down for Sunday brunch (served from noon to 5pm). Now serving absinthe.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The bar scene jumps, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings when the hordes roll in from Guatemala City for some Antigua-style revelry. Besides the watering holes, the restaurants Fridas and Bistrot Cinq are at least as popular for the cocktails as the cuisine. Start drinking early and save: cuba libres and mojitos are half price between 5pm and 8pm at many bars.
To get an overview of Antigua's nightspots, join the pub crawl that embarks every Monday at 3pm from the Terrace Hostel.
oPor Qué No?PUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4324-5407; www.porquenocafe.com; cnr 2a Av Sur & 9a Calle Oriente; h6-10pm Mon-Sat)
This alternative cafe is a vertically oriented space that takes up an absurdly narrow corner of an old building (grab the rope to reach the upper level) with vintage bric-a-brac hanging from the rafters and every surface scrawled with guest-generated graffiti. The vibe is relaxed and conversational and a crowd spills out the door each evening.
Host Carlos is an ace in the kitchen, whipping up scrumptious shrimp and eggplant dishes nightly, and the musical mix is similarly splendid.
Ocelot BarPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %5658-9028; 4a Av Norte 3; h4:30pm-1am)
Just off Parque Central, this Welsh tavern feels like a large living room, with wall-length sofas, murals of literary and sports heroes, and board games, not to mention the best-stocked bar in town. It's highly popular with the mature expat crowd; the Monday evening pub quiz really packs them in.
Ocelot is part of a nightlife center that consists of at least three other bars, including the Tiki-themed Vudu and game-center Bullseye.
Café No SéBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.cafenose.com; 1a Av Sur 11C; h3pm-1am)
This downbeat little bar is a point of reference for Antigua's budding young Burroughses and Kerouacs. It's also the core of a lively music scene, with players wailing from a corner of the room most evenings. A semiclandestine attached salon serves its own brand of mescal, 'smuggled' over from Oaxaca (two-shot minimum). After hours, just bang on the door.
Reilly's en la EsquinaIRISH PUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-6251; 6a Calle Poniente 7; hnoon-12:30am)
Holding the key corner of Antigua's nightlife corridor, the new and improved Reilly's packs in both Guatemalans and gringos on weekends. The sprawling pub counts no fewer than four bars, with most of the action focusing on the central patio. Midweek it's mellower, with the billiard table, pub grub and Guinness on tap pulling in a faithful following.
SnugPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %5838-5390; 6a Calle Poniente 14; hnoon-11pm)
It's a tight squeeze, but spirits are high at the aptly dubbed Snug, a new anchor on the expat drinking scene. Live music on Sundays.
MonolocoPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-4235; 5a Av Sur 6, Pasaje El Corregidor; h11am-12:45am)
As much Guatemala weekender as tourist hangout, the 'wacky monkey' serves up a good blend of comfort foods and local dishes, as well as ice-cold beers, in a relaxed environment with sports TV on dozens of sets.
La Sin VenturaCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 5a Av Sur 8; h4pm-1am Tue-Fri, noon-1am Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
The liveliest dance floor in town is packed with Guatemalan youth toward the weekend. DJs pump out cumbias (Colombian dance tunes) and reggaetón most nights, while musicians play live salsa on Tuesdays.
Las Vibras de la CasbahCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3141-5311; www.lasvibrasantigua.com; 5a Av Norte 30; h5pm-1am Wed-Sat)
It's quite a party most nights at this split-level disco near the Santa Catalina arch: plenty of selfies, vapor shots and EDM form the scene. To take a breather, make your way to the open-air terrace out front.
Lucky RabbitBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-5099; 5a Av Sur 8; h7pm-1am Mon-Sat)
A former cinema, this upstairs space favored by Guatemalan youth has morphed into a game room/dance hall, though the movies are still continuously projected throughout the evening.
3Entertainment
The Centro de Formación de la Cooperación Española runs thematic series of documentaries or foreign art-house films on Wednesday nights.
Café No Sé, Angie Angie, the Rainbow Café (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-1919; www.rainbowcafeantigua.com; 7a Av Sur 8; mains Q40-60; h8am-11pm; v) and Mesón Panza Verde host folk, rock and jazz performances.
LGBT VENUES
A continuous influx of foreign visitors has granted Antigua a veneer of cosmopolitanism and tolerance beyond that of other similar-size Guatemalan cities. So despite the strong religious undercurrent, gays and lesbians find a sort of haven here, and the nightlife scene embraces every persuasion. In particular, the restaurant Fridas hosts a queer gathering with DJs on the final Saturday of each month (upstairs), and the dance club Las Vibras de la Casbah stages alternative events weekly.
7Shopping
Woven and leather goods, ironwork, paintings and jade jewelry are some of the items to look for in Antigua's various shops and markets. For beautiful típico fabrics, first get educated at the Casa del Tejido Antiguo, then have a look around Nim Po't or the big handicrafts markets near the bus terminal and next to Iglesia El Carmen.
MarketMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calz de Santa Lucía Sur; h6am-6pm Mon, Thu & Sat, 7am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 7am-1pm Sun)
Antigua's market – chaotic, colorful and always busy – sprawls north of 4a Calle Poniente. The best days are the official market days – Monday, Thursday and especially Saturday – when villagers from the vicinity roll in and spread their wares north and west of the main market building.
La Casa del JadeJEWELRY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lacasadeljade.com; 4a Calle Oriente 10; h9am-6pm)
More than just a jewelry shop, the Casa has a museum that displays dozens of pre-Hispanic jade pieces and an open workshop where you can admire the work of contemporary craftspeople. It's inside the Casa Antigua El Jaulón shopping arcade.
Nim Po'tARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-2681; www.nimpotexport.com; 5a Av Norte 29; h9am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
This sprawling hall boasts a huge collection of Maya clothing, as well as hundreds of masks, wood carvings, kites, paintings, refrigerator magnets and assorted Maximón figurines. The huipiles, cortes, fajas and other garments are arranged by region, so it makes for a fascinating visit whether you're buying or not.
Mercado del CarmenARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr 3a Calle Oriente & 3a Av Norte; h9am-6pm)
Next to the ruins of the Iglesia El Carmen, this market is a good place to browse for textiles, pottery and jade, particularly on weekends, when activity spills out onto 3a Av Norte.
Doña María Gordillo Dulces TípicosFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 4a Calle Oriente 11; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
This shop is filled with traditional Guatemalan sweets, such as coconut macaroons, dulces de leche and marzipan, and there's often a crowd of antigüeños lined up to buy them.
El Reino del JadeJEWELRY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-1593; 5a Av Norte 28; h9am-6:30pm)
This shop near the Santa Catalina arch specializes in designer jewelry featuring jade and other gems.
Librería La Casa del CondeBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-3322; Portal del Comercio 4; h9am-6pm)
Excellent selection of Central American history and politics, plus nature guides in English, literature in Spanish and Lonely Planet titles.
Mercado de ArtesaníasARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 4a Calle Poniente; h9am-6pm)
Masses of Guatemalan handicrafts fill the stalls of this building at the west end of town just below the main market. While not at the top end of the quality range, it has a variety of colorful masks, blankets, jewelry, purses and so on. Don't be afraid to bargain.
Jade MayaJEWELRY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.jademaya.com; 4a Calle Oriente 34; h9am-6pm)
Started by a North American couple who discovered a jade quarry in the Motagua Valley, this shop features a jade workshop and a small museum (free admission) with an assortment of pre-Hispanic pieces.
Centro de Arte PopularART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 4a Calle Oriente 10; h9:30am-6:30pm)
Inside the Casa Antigua El Jaulón, a courtyard shopping arcade, this shop/museum displays Tz'utujil oil paintings, cedar figurines, masks and other crafts. The art is thematically arranged to illustrate the various aspects of indigenous life.
La BodegonaELECTRONICS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 5a Calle Poniente 32; h7am-8pm)
The front section of this supermarket has a good-value cell-phone shop.
8Orientation
Antigua's focal point is the broad Parque Central; few places in town are more than 15 minutes' walk from here. Compass points are added to the numbered Calles and Avs, indicating whether an address is norte (north), sur (south), poniente (west) or oriente (east) of Parque Central.
Three volcanoes provide easy reference points: Volcán Agua is south of the city and visible from most points within it; Volcán Fuego and Volcán Acatenango rise to the southwest (Acatenango is the more northerly of the two).
Another useful Antigua landmark is the Arco de Santa Catalina ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5a Av Norte), an arch spanning 5a Av Norte, two and a half blocks north of Parque Central, on the way to La Merced church.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Antigua generally feels safe to walk around, but muggings do occur, so don't let your guard down completely. This holds doubly true after the bars close at 1am; after 10pm, consider taking a taxi back to your accommodations.
Pickpockets work the busy market, doing overtime on paydays at the middle and end of the month. December (bonus time) brings a renewed wave of robberies.
Some of the more remote hiking trails have been the scene of muggings, though stepped-up police patrols have reduced the likelihood of such incidents. If you're planning on hiking independently, check with Proatur about the current situation.
Emergency
ProaturPOLICE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %5578-9835; operacionesproatur@inguat.gob.gt; 6a Calle Poniente Final; h24hr)
The helpful tourism assistance agency has its headquarters on the west side of town, three blocks south of the market. If you're the victim of a crime, staff will accompany you to the national police and assist with the formalities, including any translating that's needed. Given advance notice, it can provide an escort for drivers heading out on potentially risky roads.
| Ambulance | 128 |
| Fire | 123 |
| Police | 120 |
| Tourist Police | 1500 or 2421-2810 |
Internet Access
Aside from an abundance of affordable cybercafes, wi-fi is available in restaurants, cafes and elsewhere.
Funky Monkey (
GOOGLE MAP
; 5a Av Sur 6, Pasaje El Corregidor; per hour Q12; h8am-12:30am) Inside Monoloco.
Media
The Antigua-based Revue Magazine (www.revuemag.com) runs about 90% ads, but has reasonable information about cultural events; it's available everywhere. La Cuadra (www.lacuadraonline.com), published by Café No Sé, presents the gringo-bohemian perspective, mixing politics with irreverent commentary; pick up a copy at the cafe.
Medical Services
Hospital Nacional Pedro de BethancourtHOSPITAL
(%7831-1319; h24hr)
A public hospital in San Felipe, 2km north of the center, with emergency service.
Hospital Privado Hermano PedroHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-1190; www.hospitalhermanopedro.net; Av de la Recolección 4; h24hr)
Private hospital that offers 24-hour emergency service and accepts foreign insurance.
Money
Banco AgromercantilBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 4a Calle Poniente 8; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)
Changes US dollars and euros (cash or traveler's checks). Also houses a branch of Western Union.
Banco IndustrialBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 5a Av Sur 4; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Has a reliable ATM and changes US dollars. Another useful BI ATM is inside Café Barista, on the northwest corner of Parque Central.
CitibankBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr 4a Calle Oriente & 4a Av Norte; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat)
Changes US dollars and euros.
Opening Hours
With travelers visiting Antigua year-round, opening hours remain pretty consistent throughout the year.
ABanks 9am-6pm Monday to Friday, 9am-1pm Saturday
ABars and clubs Afternoon or late afternoon to 1am, though some open earlier; dance clubs generally shut on Sundays and some on Mondays
ACafes 7am-7pm, some to as late as 10pm
ARestaurants Noon-10pm or 11pm, some close 3pm-6pm
AShops 9am-6pm Monday to Friday, to 5pm Saturday; many shops also stay open Sunday
Post
DHLPOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2339-8400; 6a Calle Poniente 16; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
Offers door-to-door service.
Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr 4a Calle Poniente & Calz de Santa Lucía; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Opposite the market.
Telephone
Most internet cafes offer cut-rate international calls, though Skype calls may be even cheaper. If you plan to be around a while, consider purchasing a local cell phone; you can pick one up at La Bodegona.
Tourist Information
INGUATTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-0787; info-antigua@inguat.gob.gt; 5a Calle Oriente 11; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun)
The tourist office has free city maps, bus information and helpful, bilingual staff.
Travel Agencies
AtitransTRAVEL AGENCY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-3371; www.atitrans.net; 6a Av Sur 8; h8am-9pm)
Multipurpose agency with recommended shuttle service.
LAX TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-2674; laxantigua@hotmail.com; 6a Av Sur 12; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
International flight specialist.
Onvisa Travel AgencyTRAVEL AGENCY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %5226-3441; onvisatravel@hotmail.com; 6a Calle Poniente 40)
Operates shuttles to Copán, Lake Atitlán and elsewhere.
Rainbow Travel CenterTRAVEL AGENCY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7931-7878; www.rainbowtravelcenter.com; 7a Av Sur 8; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
Specializes in student and teacher airfares.
8Getting There & Around
ANTIGUA BUSES
Buses ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr 5a Calle Poniente & Av de la Recolección) from Guatemala City, Ciudad Vieja and San Miguel Dueñas arrive and depart from a street just south of the market, across from the Mercado de Artesanías. Buses ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av de la Recolección) to Chimaltenango, Escuintla, San Antonio Aguas Calientes and Santa María de Jesús go from a lot behind the main market building. If you're heading out to local villages, go early in the morning and return by midafternoon, as bus services decrease dramatically as evening approaches.
To reach highland towns such as Chichicastenango, Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango or Panajachel, take one of the frequent buses to Chimaltenango, on the Interamericana Hwy, then catch an onward bus. Making connections is easy, as many folks will jump to your aid as you alight from one bus looking for another, but stay alert.
| Destination | Fare | Duration | Frequency | Service |
| Chimaltenango | Q5 | 30min | every 10min | |
| Ciudad Vieja | Q3 | 15min | every 15min | Take a San Miguel Dueñas bus. |
| Escuintla | Q8 | 1hr | every 20min | |
| Guatemala City | Q10 | 1hr | every 15min from 7am to 8pm | A Pullman service (Q45; 9:30am and 4pm) by Litegua also runs from its office at the east end of town. |
| Panajachel | Q36 | 2½hr | one bus daily at 7am | Transportes Rebulli service, departing from Panadería Colombia on 4a Calle Poniente, half a block east of the market. |
| San Antonio Aguas Calientes | Q4 | 20min | every 10min |
Car & Motorcycle
To park in Antigua, you're supposed to have a marbete (label) hanging from your rearview mirror, or risk a fine. Purchase these from traffic cops for Q10.
If you're planning to drive out of town on a reportedly hijack-prone road (such as to Panajachel via Patzún), you may request an escort from Proatur by emailing them at least 72 hours in advance. There's no fee other than the escort's expenses.
CATours Rents scooters and offers one- to seven-day motorcycle tours from Q800.
Guatemala Renta Autos (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2329-9030; www.guatemalarentacar.com; 4a Av Norte 6; rental per day from Q260; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
Tabarini (
GOOGLE MAP
; %7832-8107; www.tabarini.com; 6a Av Sur 22; rental per day from Q300; h8am-6pm)
Shuttle Minibus
Numerous travel agencies and tourist minibus operators offer frequent shuttle services to places tourists go, including Guatemala City and its airport, Panajachel and Chichicastenango. They cost more than buses, but they're comfortable and convenient, with door-to-door service at both ends. Some typical one-way prices include Chichicastenango (Q115), Cobán (Q250), Copán (Honduras; Q270), Guatemala City (Q80), Monterrico (Q115), Panajachel (Q115) and Quetzaltenango (Q195).
Confirm departure times with shuttle operators and whether they require a minimum number of passengers.
Taxi & Tuk-Tuk
Taxis wait where the Guatemala City buses stop and on the east side of Parque Central. An in-town taxi ride costs Q25 to Q30. Tuk-tuks are Q5 to Q10. Note that tuk-tuks are not allowed in the center of town, so you'll have to hike a few blocks out to find one; they do not operate after 8pm.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
EXPLORE MORE OF ANTIGUA
While Antigua itself is pretty much well-trodden territory from end to end, there are plenty of little villages just outside of town that are begging to be explored:
Santa María de Jesús At the foot of Volcán Agua, holds a major market on Sundays.
San Juan del Obispo Has a wonderful colonial church and panoramic views of Antigua.
San Felipe An artisans' village with some of the finest jade, silver and ceramic work in the area.
Pastores Ground zero for leatherwork. This is the place to come for handmade cowboy boots and stock whips.
Around Antigua
Jocotenango
This village just northwest of Antigua opens a window on a less self-conscious, less Unesco-authorized version of Guatemalan life compared with central Antigua. Aloof from the traffic of the main thoroughfare stands the church, as it has for centuries, its peach facade graced by baroque columns and elaborate stuccowork, behind elaborate gardens and a majestic ceiba tree. The town is known for its processions during Lent – or perhaps more so as the birthplace of Latin American pop star Ricardo Arjona.
Though accommodations are sparse in Jocotenango, it is practically a suburb of Antigua, where there are numerous hotels and hostels.
Outstanding coffee can be enjoyed at the Centro Cultural La Azotea (%7831-1120; www.azoteaestate.com; Calle del Cementerio Final; adult/child Q50/30; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-3pm Sat) plantation, which is Jocotenango's main draw; for nightlife, nearby Antigua is a better bet.
Any bus from Antigua bound for Chimaltenango can drop you off in front of the church (Q3, 5 minutes); or catch a tuk-tuk (Q5).
El Hato
oEarth LodgeLODGE$
(%5664-0713; www.earthlodgeguatemala.com; dm Q55, s/d cabin from Q230/310, without bathroom Q130/200; W#)S
High in the hills above Jocotenango, this 40-acre spread is set on a working avocado farm, and the views of the Panchoy valley and volcanoes are truly mesmerizing. Developed and overseen by an affable North American couple, the ecofriendly retreat offers plenty to do: hiking trails, birdwatching, Spanish lessons, yoga sessions, a chuj (Maya sauna) or just hanging in a hammock.
Accommodations are in comfortable A-frame cabins, an eight-bed dorm and a couple of fabulous tree houses. Lip-smacking, nutritious vegetarian food is served with a slew of avocado-based fare at harvest time (January and July).
A portion of the profits buys supplies for the village school, where guests can do volunteer work.
To get there, your best bet is to call at least a day in advance to see if the lodge can pick you up from Antigua (Q30 per person with two passengers). Otherwise, an 'El Hato' bus leaves from behind the market in Antigua at least six times Monday, Thursday and Saturday, less often the rest of the week. From there it's a 25-minute walk downhill – any villager can give you directions – just ask for 'los gringos.'
Ciudad Vieja & Around
Seven kilometers southwest of Antigua along the Escuintla road is Ciudad Vieja (Old City), near the site of the first capital of the Captaincy General of Guatemala. Founded in 1527, it met its demise 14 years later when Volcán Agua let loose a flood of water that had been penned up in its crater. The water deluged the town with tons of rock and mud, leaving only the ruins of La Concepción church.
The actual site of the former capital is a bit to the east at San Miguel Escobar; Ciudad Vieja was populated by survivors of the flood. The pretty church on the main square has an impressive stuccowork facade, though it's about two centuries newer than the plaque by the door boasts it to be.
A good way to tour this area is by bicycle. Head out of Antigua along the Ciudad Vieja road east of the market. It's a 4km ride along a moderately busy road to Ciudad Vieja. Take 4a Calle west through the restored colonial part of town. Back at the main road, turn left. When you reach the cemetery, go right, following signs for San Miguel Dueñas. From there, it's about a 10-minute ride downhill to the Valhalla Experimental Station, on the left side. The road goes on to San Miguel Dueñas.
Coming into that town, you'll go over a small bridge. Bear right, then turn right at the sign for San Antonio Aguas Calientes. This road, unpaved for much of the way, winds for the next 5km through coffee fincas (plantations), hamlets and vegetable fields. Arriving in San Antonio, turn right at the communal washbasins to reach the main plaza. Leaving town, go around the left side of the church, then head left up 2a Calle. From there, it's a steep climb but you're rewarded with breathtaking views of the village. Beyond the Finca Los Nietos coffee plantation, you'll reach the RN-14 Hwy. Turn left there and go 2km, taking the second right onto a dirt road. This will take you back to the Ciudad Vieja–Antigua road, where a left turn leads you back into town.
WORTH A TRIP
SAN ANTONIO AGUAS CALIENTES
This tranquil village surrounded by farmed volcanic slopes is noted for its textiles, and the Mercado de Artesanías (handicrafts market) stands prominently beside the town hall. Inside, women work on hip-strap looms and on the upper level there's an exhibit of traditional outfits, with examples from all over Guatemala. Ceremonial huipiles, embroidered on both sides, can go for as much as Q2800 here.
2Activities
Niños de GuatemalaCULTURAL
(%7832-8033; www.ninosdeguatemala.org; tours Q200-250; hTue & Thu)
The NGO Niños de Guatemala, which runs three schools for low-income kids in and around the town, leads alternative tours of Ciudad Vieja that really get beneath the surface of the community. A half-day tour, every Thursday morning, takes you through the poorer section of town, then focuses on two of its principal industries: 'chicken bus' rebuilding and coffin-making.
On another tour, given Tuesday mornings, participants visit a woodworking workshop in the outlying district of San Lorenzo el Cubo and learn how to make quitapeñas (worry dolls). Tour fees include transport, guide and a snack.
Valhalla Experimental StationTOUR
(%7831-5799; www.exvalhalla.net; h8am-4:30pm)S
Between San Antonio Aguas Calientes and Ciudad Vieja, near the village of San Miguel Dueñas, is this macadamia farm raising 300 species of the remarkable nut. You can tour this organic, sustainable agriculture project and sample nuts, oils and cosmetics made from the harvest. Be sure to sample the macadamia pancakes, served in an open-air cafe surrounded by lush tropical foliage.
4Sleeping
Hotel Santa ValentinaHOTEL$$
(%7831-5044; 2a Av 0-01, Zona 3; s/d Q200/250; p)
Your best bet for accommodations in Ciudad Vieja offers rooms with bathroom and TV. An abundant breakfast is served in the hotel's café.
San Cristóbal El Alto
Just 3km south of Antigua along the road to Santa María de Jesús, San Cristóbal El Alto sits about 300m higher than its sister village down by the turnoff, a perch that affords superb views of the Panchoy valley. The forested slopes here are laced with trails, and members of the tight-knit community can guide you around. It's also a center for woodwork, pottery and textiles, which are displayed on the plaza every Sunday.
1Sights & Activities
Cerro San CristóbalGARDENS
(%5941-8415; www.restcerrosancristobal.com; htours Mon-Fri by request)SF
Perched on a hillside overlooking the Panchoy valley, this is a well-managed organic farm that's packed with small pleasures. Tours are given of a medicinal plant garden, neatly arrayed plots of organic veggies and a greenhouse full of orchids. There are also demonstrations by weavers on a bicycle-powered loom, a consecrated shrine to Maximón and a traditional sauna (Q300).
Cooperativa COSENDERHIKING
(%5560-5081; per person Q140)
This community guide association leads half-day hikes from San Cristóbal El Alto up into the hills, then down to a gorge that's a sacred site for the community.
4Sleeping & Eating
Casa XicayáGUESTHOUSE$
(%5560-5081; veronicaxicayortega@yahoo.es; Calle Principal 41 Oriente; r per person incl breakfast Q160)
San Cristóbal El Alto's single lodging option, two blocks east of the main square, enjoys a tranquil setting on grounds dotted with avocado and loquat trees. There are two options, both with bathroom: three upstairs rooms with volcano views, and a nine-bed cabin in the woods. The rate includes a huge breakfast with plenty of beans, plantains and tortillas.
Restaurant Cerro San CristóbalVEGETARIAN$
(%5941-8145; www.restsancristóbal.com; Calle Principal 5; mains Q35-50; h8am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-8pm Fri-Sun)
Contender for the slow food star of the Antigua area, this restaurant puts its own organically grown produce on the table. Giant salads are loaded with avocados, nasturtiums, greens and herbs from the surrounding gardens. They also serve tilapia from their own fish pond. Dine on a terrace with stupendous views of the Panchoy valley.
8Getting There & Away
Shuttles to Cerro San Cristóbal, about 1km below the center of the village, depart from Nim Po't crafts shop in Antigua between 8am and 6pm daily (Q10, 15 minutes).
San Juan Comalapa
Set on the side of a deep ravine, this village 16km north of Chimaltenango is best known for its tradition of primitive folk painting. Its setting is alluded to in its original Kaqchiquel name, Chixot, 'on the edge of a frying pan.' Though poor and a bit rundown, Comalapa is worth visiting for glimpses of both the realities and artistic reflections of contemporary Kaqchiquel life, particularly on market days (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday).
Comalapa gained its reputation during the 1950s when native son Andrés Curruchich (1891–1969) rose to fame for his primitive paintings of village life, ceremonies and legends, and his works ended up on display as far away as San Francisco, Dallas and Detroit. Considered the father of Guatemalan 'primitivist' painting, he was awarded the prestigious Order of the Quetzal.
Comalapa is also known as the birthplace of Rafael Álvarez Ovalle, composer of Guatemala's national anthem.
In 1976 a major earthquake caused widespread devastation in Comalapa and took the lives of 3500 inhabitants. The Templo de San Juan Bautista, the town's oldest church and a survivor of four previous quakes, was mostly toppled but later rebuilt. Scenes from the earthquake and other events appear on a major set of murals – at 184m reputedly the country's longest – that cover the walls along the southern approach. Painted by students in 2002, the panels allude to the origins of Maya culture and envision a possible future.
You can visit the house Curruchich was born in, on the main street. His daughter and granddaughter will show you around and there is some information about the artist. His legacy lives on as other villagers took up the brush and started working in a similar primitive style. Their works can be viewed at the Galería de Arte Gabriel (%7849-8168; 0 Av 2-88; h9am-5pm) and Museo de Arte Maya (%5068-4047; 3a Calle 0-74, Zona 1; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-4pm Sun), the latter also featuring archaeological finds and vintage photos.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel PixcayáHOTEL$
(%7849-8260; 0 Av 1-82; s/d with bathroom Q70/140, without bathroom Q40/80; p)
If you want to stay the night in Comalapa, your best bet is the Pixcayá, a block south of the church. It has three levels of neat and simple rooms around a plant-laden courtyard.
El Rinkoncito ChapinGUATEMALAN$
(0 Av 251; mains Q25-50; h7am-9pm)
The best choice for food is this friendly establishment on the main street with polished log tables and a brilliant panorama of the surrounding hills from the rear window. Grilled steaks and seafood are its specialty, and it serves Spanish wines.
8Getting There & Away
Buses (Q8, 45 minutes, every half hour) run from Chimaltenango; minibuses and pick-ups leave when full.
Santiago Sacatepéquez & Sumpango
All Saints' Day (November 1) is best known in Guatemala as the time when families visit cemeteries to spruce up the tombstones of loved ones with poignant floral designs, but locals add another quirk to this seasonal ritual. It's also the time of the Feria del Barrilete Gigante (Festival of the Giant Kite). The biggest parties happen in Santiago Sacatepéquez and Sumpango, about 20km and 25km north of Antigua respectively. Fabricated weeks ahead of the event, these kites really are giants. Made from tissue paper with wood or bamboo braces, and with guide ropes as thick as a human arm, most are more than 13m wide, with intricate, colorful designs that combine Maya cosmology and popular iconography. In Santiago they're flown over the cemetery, some say to communicate with the souls of the dead. Kids fly their own small kites right in the cemetery, running around the gravestones. Food and knickknack vendors sell their wares next to the graveyard. In Sumpango it's a somewhat more formal affair (and the crowds are more manageable), with the kites lined up at one end of a football field and bleachers set up at the other. Judges rank the big flyers according to size, design, color, originality and elevation. Part of the fun is watching the crowd flee when a giant kite takes a nose dive!
Various travel agencies run day trips from Antigua to Santiago Sacatepéquez on November 1 (charging around Q200 per person including lunch and an English-speaking guide), though you can easily get there on your own by taking any Guatemala City–bound bus and getting off with the throngs at the junction for Santiago (Q4, 20 minutes). From here, take one of the scores of buses covering the last few kilometers (Q2.50, 15 minutes). The fastest way to Sumpango is to take a bus to Chimaltenango (Q5, 30 minutes) and backtrack to Sumpango (Q3, 15 minutes); this will bypass all of the Santiago-bound traffic, which is bumper to bumper on fair day.