Nosh on This!

When the song starts up in my head and sings I want candy, it doesn’t quit until I make one of these recipes. Because a lot of commercial candy is not gluten-free safe, the remedy is to learn how to make some over-the-top treats that even a nosher would find decadent. Homemade marshmallows, truffles, buckeyes, peanut butter cups, matzo rocky road, and meringue sandwich bites are a few of our favorite things. About the only skill these require is patience and the ability to not eat the ingredients before they get used in the recipe, no matter how tempting. I grew up in a house where my dad’s sweet tooth was king. His favorite treats were well hidden from four children, or so he thought. Thankfully, he never checked the bottoms of the chocolates in his box of Fanny Farmer because there would be indents where little fingers checked out the filling. If he were with us today, I bet he would pronounce this chapter the perfect nosh.

Parchment paper, mixer, instant-read digital thermometer, double boiler, silicone spatulas

While a little bit quicker, this method is also more challenging for anyone new to tempering. You have to know in advance what the chocolate ought to look like at any stage, to be really comfortable with tempering chocolate in a microwave. With a little practice and patience, anyone can learn.

Place three-quarters of the chopped chocolate (or pistoles, wafers, or discs) in a microwave-safe container. Melt for 20-second bursts on high, stirring after each interval, because the chocolate will continue to melt. Don’t be tempted to go over 20 seconds each time. You want it to be shiny, smooth, and liquid.

The final temperature after melting the chocolate should be between 110° and 114°F. Once that is achieved and the chocolate is smooth and shiny, add the remaining chocolate and stir gently until it is fully incorporated and melted, without any more microwave action. The temperature of the chocolate should eventually fall to between 89° and 90°F. That’s the tempered chocolate working temperature range. Dip. Quickly. No interruptions. With this method, you really don’t want to reheat the chocolate in the microwave and risk the temperature’s rising above 91°F, because that means starting all over again.

In a double boiler over very low heat, melt three-quarters of the chocolate until it is between 110° and 114°F. Carefully remove the bowl from the heat, avoiding any contact with steam, and set it on a towel to insulate it from a cold countertop, then add the remaining chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is 88° to 90°F. You will have to reheat the chocolate again if it falls below 88°F, but don’t heat it above 91°F, or you’ll have to start the process all over again.

Have the items to dip ready in advance and as crumb-free as possible. The tempered chocolate should be in a container that is deep enough to easily cover the item(s) you’re dipping. Dunk the item with a dipping fork and slide it out of the chocolate bath. Let the excess chocolate drip back into the bowl by rapping the fork gently on the edge of the bowl. Slide the item onto the parchment paper, using another fork to push it off. Move quickly and avoid interruptions because tempered chocolate sets quickly. Tempered chocolate will release easily from parchment paper.

PEANUT BUTTER CUPS AND BUCKEYES

Makes 45 to 48 buckeyes or 40 to 45 peanut butter cups

Chilling time: 4 hours to overnight

These treats should come with a warning label: highly addictive. Buckeyes are thought to be native to Ohio, where they are fashioned after a buckeye or horse chestnut—not the athletic teams. Most are made with crushed cookies but these are not, which happily makes them absolutely gluten-free. You can use the very same ingredients to prepare Peanut Butter Cups that are ridiculously way better than anything you’ve had from the candy counter.

FILLING

unsalted butter, slightly softened 115 grams | 8 tablespoons or ½ cup

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 330 grams | 3 cups

creamy peanut butter, Skippy Natural preferred 380 grams | 1½ cups

kosher salt 1 teaspoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

CHOCOLATE COATING

bittersweet or semisweet bar chocolate, roughly chopped 500 grams | 18 ounces | 4½ cups

FILLING

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Cut the butter into tablespoon-size pieces. Combine the confectioners’ sugar, peanut butter, and butter in a large bowl. Using an electric mixer, mix on low speed until the confectioners’ sugar is incorporated. Turn the speed to medium and mix for 1 minute. With the mixer on low speed once again, slowly add the salt and vanilla.

3. FOR BUCKEYES: Using a tablespoon scoop, place round balls on the prepared baking sheet until you’ve used all the mixture. Using clean, wet hands, roll each ball into a smooth 1½-inch sphere. Rinse your hands periodically while forming the balls, otherwise they will not be smooth. Cover the pan with foil or plastic wrap and leave in the freezer overnight to both develop the flavor and set.

4. FOR PEANUT BUTTER CUPS: Roll the filling into ½-inch-wide logs and freeze overnight. When ready to assemble the peanut butter cups, slice the frozen logs into skimpy ¼-inch-thick rounds. Use standard muffin or specialty peanut butter cup candy liners for making the peanut butter cups. If using standard muffin cup liners, fill only one-quarter full in total.

CHOCOLATE COATING

1. When ready to dip the buckeye in chocolate, or to create the peanut butter cups, temper the bar chocolate and follow the instructions below.

2. FOR BUCKEYES: Remove the buckeye balls from the freezer and one by one, using toothpicks or a chocolate dipping fork, dip each into the chocolate just until it is mostly covered—but letting the top peek through (think of chestnuts). Let the excess chocolate drip off. Place the buckeyes back on the (cold) parchment paper–lined baking sheet to set.

3. FOR PEANUT BUTTER CUPS: Fill each paper liner one-eighth full with melted chocolate. Place one peanut butter disk in the center, being sure to let the chocolate rise up around the edges as you press the disk down, just slightly. Fill with additional chocolate until the disk is covered and the liner is full (if using small candy liners; otherwise, just fill until you can’t see the peanut butter disk and the chocolate is smooth, one quarter of the way up a standard muffin liner). Work rapidly because the cold filling will set the chocolate rather quickly.

4. Both keep at room temperature if tempered, but if the chocolate does not temper, they can be refrigerated and served cold.

CHOCOLATE-COVERED NUTELLA HEARTS

Makes 45 nutella hearts

Chilling time: 4 hours to overnight

I am a late convert to Nutella, but these candies help make up for lost time and are a stylish Valentine’s Day treat. Be sure to use a heart cookie cutter that measures 2½ inches wide by ¾ inch thick to achieve the same yield.

unsalted butter, slightly softened 105 grams | 7 tablespoons or ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 330 grams | 3 cups

Nutella 450 grams | 1½ cups

hazelnut liqueur, Frangelico preferred 1 tablespoon

or
hazelnut or almond extract 1 teaspoon

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

kosher salt 1 teaspoon

bittersweet or semisweet bar chocolate, roughly chopped 500 grams | 18 ounces | 4½ cups

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the butter into tablespoon-size pieces. In a large bowl, combine the sifted confectioners’ sugar, Nutella, and butter. Using an electric mixer on low speed, beat just until incorporated. Add the hazelnut liqueur, vanilla, and salt. Mix until fully incorporated. The mixture should not be terribly sticky and should be somewhat easy to handle. If it is sticky, make sure your hands are slightly wet when handling the dough.

2. To make heart shapes, roll into small balls the size of Ping-Pong balls, flatten just slightly with your hand, and cut out 2½-inch-wide heart shapes with a sharp cookie cutter. Reroll the scraps. Transfer the hearts to the prepared baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for at least 4 hours or overnight.

3. When you are just about ready to remove the baking sheet from the freezer, temper the chocolate.

4. One by one, using toothpicks or a chocolate dipping fork, dip each heart into the chocolate just until it is covered. Let the excess chocolate drip off. Place the hearts back onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. If desired, dip a toothpick or the fork back into the chocolate and flick it back and forth over the hearts once or twice to drizzle on decorative ribbons. If they don’t temper perfectly, keep them chilled and serve directly from the freezer.

DRESSY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

Makes thirty-six to forty-two 1½-inch truffles

Cooking time: 6 minutes (plus setting time)

It used to be that sending someone truffles was the ultimate in chocolate-giving goodness. These days you can find truffles everywhere, including the drugstore candy counter, but nothing beats the quality of a homemade chocolate truffle. They’re easy enough to make in under an hour and can be refrigerated until you’re ready to give them away or serve them with coffee. The flavor variations are as limited as your imagination.

heavy cream 240 grams | 1 cup

light corn syrup 1 tablespoon

semisweet bar chocolate, roughly chopped 225 grams | 8 ounces | 2 cups

bittersweet bar chocolate, roughly chopped 225 grams | 8 ounces | 2 cups

unsalted butter, slightly softened 15 grams | 1 tablespoon

FLAVOR VARIATIONS

any of the following: GF liqueur, brewed coffee, vanilla, orange or almond extract 1 teaspoon

COATING VARIATIONS

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 20 grams | 3 tablespoons

nuts, finely chopped and toasted 75 grams | ½ cup

unsweetened shredded coconut, finely chopped 55 grams | 1 cup

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat the cream and corn syrup in a double boiler. As soon as it is just warm, add the semisweet and bittersweet chocolate and stir until they are fully melted. Stir in the butter. Let the mixture cool for 5 minutes, then stir in your flavoring of choice. Stir well.

2. Let the mixture set for 3 hours at room temperature. Scoop into generous 1½-inch balls; roll in your hands until mostly round and smooth. Roll in cocoa powder, toasted chopped nuts, or coconut.

3. Place on the prepared pan. Refrigerate until hard. Store, covered, in the refrigerator but serve at room temperature, for best flavor.

FLUFFY MARSHMALLOWS

Makes thirty-six 1½-inch marshmallows (about 20 ounces)

Cooking time: 8 to 12 minutes (plus setting time)

Dairy-free

Marshmallows from a store and homemade marshmallows are worlds apart. If you’ve never made a homemade marshmallow, you are in for a surprise. They are easy to prepare and economical and store for a couple of weeks in a covered tin. Although they mix up in minutes, give them four hours to set properly; the flavor improves the second day. They also make an excellent gift alongside a tin of your favorite hot cocoa mix.

nonstick spray, for greasing

unflavored gelatin 14 grams | two ¼-ounce envelopes

cold water 235 grams | 1 cup

granulated sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

light corn syrup 110 grams | ⅓ cup

kosher salt ¼ teaspoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 30 grams | ¼ cup

tapioca starch 65 grams | ½ cup

1. Generously grease a 9-inch square pan with nonstick spray. So you can easily remove the marshmallows once they have set, place a piece of parchment paper in the pan, with the edges overhanging like a sling. Spray the parchment generously with nonstick spray.

2. Place the gelatin in the bottom of a large bowl. Add 175 grams (¾ cup) of the cold water to the gelatin and let the mixture set without stirring or disturbing it for 10 minutes or so. You’ll be using an electric mixer after the next step, so be sure to have it ready.

3. Meanwhile, in a small but deep saucepan, gently stir the granulated sugar with the corn syrup, salt, and 60 grams (¼ cup) of water once or twice just to combine. Without stirring it again, heat the mixture on medium heat, swirling the pan every once in a while, until it reaches 240°F and turns clear, about 5 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside.

4. Using the electric mixer on low speed, mix the gelatin mixture while pouring the heated sugar down the side of the large bowl, keeping it away from the mixer blades so it will not splash. Be careful—the mixture is very hot. As soon as the sugar is incorporated, turn up the mixer speed little by little until the mixture begins to get frothy and fluffy. It will stink to high heaven, and you might want to not breathe much at this point. Keep going and turn the speed to high. Keep going until it gets huge in volume and turns marshmallow white with giant fluffy white peaks. It should take anywhere from 5 to 8 minutes in a stand mixer and 14 to 16 minutes with a hand mixer. Add the vanilla and whip just until mixed in thoroughly.

5. Spray a silicone spatula with nonstick spray so you can easily transfer the marshmallow goo into the prepared pan. Then use the spatula to even out the top and make it flat. Let the mixture set at room temperature, untouched, for at least 4 hours, but overnight is better because the flavors develop.

6. Whisk the confectioners’ sugar and tapioca starch together and sprinkle generously on a cutting surface. Flip the marshmallow square onto the dusted surface. Remove the parchment paper. Cover generously with more of the sugar mixture. Dip a sharp knife into the sugar mixture, trim the uneven edges, and slice the marshmallow square into 1½-inch squares. Be sure to dip the sticky marshmallow edges into the excess sugar mixture so they won’t stick together. These can be stored in a covered tin for up to 2 weeks.

COCONUT MATZO ROCKY ROAD

Makes 12 to 16 pieces

Baking time: 20 to 22 minutes (plus 3 to 4 hours cooling time)

Dairy-free option available

This recipe is an adaptation of Marcy Goldman’s original Caramel Matzo Crunch from her book, A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking. If you are a fan of rocky road, this will make you very happy. Be sure to use the whole box of matzo and make as many layers as possible, which leads to an incredible flaky base. You’ll never look at matzo the same way again. For those who buy matzo for Passover and then find three extra boxes in their cupboard when cleaning it out months later, this is for you. Be sure to make this well ahead of when you want to serve it—it takes a long time to cool.

nonstick spray or butter, for greasing

brown sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

unsalted butter or kosher margarine 230 grams | 16 tablespoons or 1 cup

Yehuda GF Matzo Style Squares one 300-gram box | 10½ ounces

bittersweet and semisweet chocolate chips, mixed (half and half) 340 grams | 2 cups

unsweetened coconut flakes 115 grams | 2 cups

nuts, toasted and roughly chopped 300 grams | 2 cups

mini marshmallows, Paskesz kosher preferred 135 grams | 2 cups

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan with nonstick spray. Line the pan fully with foil that hangs over all sides like a handle (two long pieces lined crosswise). Spray or butter the foil generously (but not the handles).

2. In a deep saucepan over medium heat, melt the brown sugar with the butter to create the caramel. Once it is all dissolved and begins a low boil, time it for 3 minutes and don’t stir the mixture.

3. Use one whole sheet of matzo for each layer in the pan. Place a matzo in the bottom of the greased pan. When the caramel is ready, pour on a thin layer and, using an offset spatula, spread it quickly. Be careful—it is quite hot. Quickly place another whole matzo on top and repeat until you run out of matzo or the caramel. Bake for 15 minutes.

4. While that bakes, get the other ingredients ready to go. Once the matzo comes out of the oven and while it is piping hot, top with half of the chocolate chips followed by half of the coconut flakes, and then half of the nuts and half of the mini marshmallows. Repeat. End with a few strategically placed marshmallows, coconut, chocolate chips, and nuts on top so it looks attractive.

5. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes more, or until the marshmallows just start to become golden. Remove from the oven. Let cool thoroughly in the pan for 3 to 4 hours. Using the foil handles, transfer from the pan onto a cutting board. Peel away the foil. Gently slice, using a serrated knife.

MERINGUE SANDWICH BITES

Makes 40 to 45 meringue sandwich bites

Baking time: 3 to 5 minutes (plus 8 hours or overnight resting in oven)

Dairy-free option available

No one would ever accuse these little meringue sandwich cookies of being ordinary. Filled with Nutella, melted chocolate, jam, or nut butter, these are not those dried-out, too-sweet counterparts in a plastic tub. The trick to keeping the cookies bright white is to place them in a hot oven, close the door, time them for three minutes, and turn the oven off. Leave them to dry for eight hours without opening the door and you’ll be rewarded with very pretty meringues. Fair warning: If you bake them on a very humid day, they may be slightly chewy on the inside, which is not a bad thing at all.

egg whites, at room temperature 140 grams | 4 extra-large

cream of tartar ¼ teaspoon

kosher salt ¼ teaspoon

superfine sugar 100 grams | ½ cup

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

almond extract ¼ teaspoon

FILLING OPTIONS

Nutella 175 grams | ½ cup

semisweet chocolate chips, melted 90 grams | ½ cup

jam, Bonne Maman preferred 160 grams | ½ cup

nut butter 130 grams | ½ cup

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer or using a hand mixer, combine the egg whites with the cream of tartar and salt. Begin to whip the whites on high speed. When the whites are frothy, begin to add the sugar slowly down the side of the bowl, making sure it gets incorporated. Go slowly—the whites will absorb a little at a time. Whip the whites until they are bright white and the shiny peaks stand tall.

3. Add the vanilla and almond extract and whip for a few seconds to incorporate. Using a silicone spatula, transfer the whipped egg whites to a large piping bag fitted with a ½-inch star tip. Pipe small kisses or small rounds onto the prepared baking sheets—close together is fine; they don’t spread. Alternatively, place 2-teaspoon-size scoops on the prepared pan, close together.

4. Bake for 3 to 5 minutes, then turn the oven off. Keep the oven light on and the door closed. The meringues will need to stay in the oven for 8 hours, or overnight if possible. The meringues should be dry, white, and cool in the morning. Depending on the weather, they might be crispy on the outside and somewhat chewy inside, and that’s acceptable, too.

5. Place ½ teaspoon of your preferred filling on the flat side of one meringue and place the flat side of another against it to make a meringue sandwich. Repeat until you’ve used all of the meringues.