This one-of-a-kind bag features a patchwork of small squares turned sideways, or “on point,” which gives it a unique flair. Its ribbon rosette details add a whimsical touch and are fun and simple to create, while pockets on both the back and the inside lining add modern convenience. For help with patchwork, see Keeping It Real: Perfect Patchwork Piecing (page 58).
This method is super-easy and has totally cured me of zipper phobia. You’ll be extra proud you did it when you are carrying this uber-cute bag, too!
*If desired, you can use the same fabric for the zipper placket lining and outside placket to avoid confusion when sewing.
* Various contrasting print fabrics (about 5), each at least 2½” square, to total ½ yard, for the patchwork bag front panel and outside pocket
* ½ yard of solid-color fabric for the bag back (I used denim.)
* 1 fat quarter of fabric for the bag sides
* 1 fat quarter of fabric for the bag bottom
* ¼ yard of fabric for the top (zipper placket)
* ¼ yard of fabric for the handles
* 1 yard of fabric for the lining*
* 1 yard of fusible fleece
* 1 yard of woven cotton fusible interfacing
* 1 piece of plastic canvas at least 4½” × 15½” for the bag bottom (available at craft and sewing stores)
* ⅝“–wide velvet ribbon for the rosettes: 1¼ yards of color 2, 1½ yards each of colors 1 and 3, and 3/4 yard of color 4
* 1¾ yards of ⅝“–wide green velvet ribbon for the leaves and stem
* ¾ yard of 1”–wide ribbon trim for the outside pocket, side panels, and zipper tape lining
* Coordinating thread
* 18” zipper (non-separating)
* Zipper foot
* Appliqué glue
Patterns are available to print from (http://tinyurl.com/InspiredToSew-Patterns)
Zipper placket / bag top:
* Cut 2 pieces 3” × 19” each from the zipper placket fabric, lining fabric, fleece, and interfacing.
* Cut 1 strip 3” long from the ribbon trim for the end of the zipper inside lining.
Bag sides:
* Cut 2 pieces 5” × 7” each from the bag side fabric, lining fabric, fleece, and interfacing.
* Cut 2 strips 7” long from the ribbon trim.
Bag front panel and back pocket:
* Cut 64 squares 2½” × 2½” from the print patchwork fabrics.
* Cut 1 pattern piece from the fusible fleece.
Bag back panel:
* Cut 1 pattern piece from the back panel fabric.
* Cut 1 pattern piece from the fusible fleece.
Bag bottom:
* Cut 1 piece 5” × 16” each from the bag bottom fabric, lining fabric, fleece, and interfacing.
* Cut 1 piece 4½” × 15½” from the plastic canvas.
Outside pocket:
* Cut 2 strips 8½” × 2½” from your fabric of choice for the pocket top band.
* Cut 1 piece 10½” × 8½” from the interfacing.
* Cut 1 strip 8½” long from the ribbon trim.
Bag lining:
* Cut 2 pattern pieces each from the lining fabric and interfacing.
Inside pocket:
* Cut 1 piece 10½” × 8½” each from the lining fabric and interfacing.
Handles:
* Cut 2 strips 22” × 3½” each from the handle fabric and fleece.
Velvet ribbon:
* Color 1: Cut 2 strips ¾ yard long
* Color 2: Cut 1 strip ¾ yard long and 1 strip ½ yard long.
* Color 3: Cut 2 strips ¾ yard long each
* Color 4: Cut 1 strip ¾ yard long.
* Green: Cut a 9” strip for the stem and 10 strips 5” long each for the leaves
See Sewing Basics on page 20. For extra zipper help, see Keeping It Real: A Common Zipper Boo-Boo and a Tip (page 51).
To account for the varying widths of zippers available, I’ve had you cut the zipper placket fabric slightly wider than you may need. After sewing the piece together, trim to exactly 5” wide if needed, trimming equal amounts from each side. For example, if your zipper placket comes out to 6” wide, trim ½” off each side.
1. Fuse fleece to the wrong side of each placket piece. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each placket lining piece.
note: To insert the zipper, I am going to have you make a zipper “sandwich” with the outside and lining placket pieces you cut. You’ll place the edges of the zipper between the lining and the outside fabric on either side and stitch to create a placket, which will also form the top of the bag.
2. Lay 1 lining piece right side up, and place the closed zipper right side up on top, so the zipper edge overlaps the fabric. Add a piece of the placket fabric, right side down, over the same zipper edge, with the edges of the fabrics lined up.
3. Pin the layers together carefully. Using a zipper foot, sew the layers together ¼” from the zipper teeth, backstitching at each end.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the opposite side of the zipper placket. Press open and trim the placket fabric ends to within ½” of the ends of the zipper if necessary.
5. Fold the 3” piece of ribbon trim in half crosswise, wrong sides together, and topstitch the edges together. Sew the tab across the placket at the bottom of the zipper on the lining side.
Keeping It Real
A Common Zipper Boo–Boo and a Tip
Be very careful to stitch at least ¼” away from the zipper teeth. If you get too close, the fabric can get caught in the zipper when you open and close it.
Around the zipper pull, it often becomes difficult to sew. There are two things you can do to help with this. First, always keep your needle in the down position when you pause. When you come near the zipper pull, open the zipper so the pull is behind your needle.
Another trick, especially when you start stitching, is to manually stitch by rotating your machine’s wheel a couple of rounds until you are past the difficult parts. Again, keeping your needle in the down position when you pause stitching will prevent the layers from shifting.
Create the patchwork
For tips on sewing patchwork, see Keeping It Real: Perfect Patchwork Piecing (page 58).
1. Randomly arrange your 2½” patchwork fabric squares into 8 rows of 8 squares each.
2. Sew each row together, press, and then sew the 8 rows to each other. Press.
3. Lay the patchwork flat on a cutting mat and rotate it so the squares are on point.
4. Because you will cut both the front bag panel and the outside back pocket from the patchwork, leave enough room for the pocket when positioning the panel pattern. Using your cut lining piece as your pattern piece, align the center with the center of the patchwork, as close to the top as possible (as shown), and pin.
5. Line up a clear quilting ruler along the bottom edge of the pattern, and use a rotary cutter to cut off a triangular piece. Set it aside to make the pocket. Finish cutting out the front panel.
Make the outside pocket
1. Cut the patchwork triangle in half to create 2 triangles and rotate them so they form a square 8½” × 8½". Sew the triangles together and press.
note: Here’s where you will notice that the piece is a little small to make much of a pocket. To remedy this, you will add the 8½” × 2½” pieces of contrasting fabric.
2. Sew the fabric strips to the top and bottom edges of the patchwork square. Press.
3. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket.
4. With the borders at the top and bottom, use chalk and a ruler to draw a horizontal line across the center of the pocket. Pin the ribbon trim across the pocket just below the center line. Fold the pocket in half to make sure the ribbon is just below the fold; adjust if needed. Sew both edges of the ribbon to the pocket.
5. Fold the pocket in half with right sides facing and sew the side edges together. Trim the corners and press. Turn right side out and press again.
Finish the back panel
1. Fold the back panel piece in half to mark the center on the bottom edge. Do the same with the pocket you just made.
2. Align the raw edges of the pocket (with ribbon trim facing out) with the bottom edge of the panel, matching the center marks. Topstitch each side edge of the pocket in place ⅛” from the edge. Backstitch at each end. At each top corner of the pocket, sew a ¼” triangle to give the pocket extra support.
3. Measure 3” from the right edge of the pocket and mark a vertical line with chalk, using a ruler. Stitch along the marked line, backstitching at each end, to create divided pockets.
note: As you attach these embellishments, be sure you steer clear of the bag front’s seam allowances except for the bottom left stem, which can be sewn into the seam. Refer to the photo for placement.
1. Baste along the center of each piece of ribbon you cut for the flowers, and pull the top thread carefully to ruffle each piece.
2. Fold each piece of ribbon you cut for a leaf in half to form a flat “loop” with the velvet facing up. (It will look like a “cause” or “awareness” ribbon.) Overlap and tack the ends together with a touch of appliqué glue, then tack to the bag front.
3. At the sewing machine, create a flower on top of each leaf. Starting with an end of the ruffled ribbon in the center, begin topstitching the center of the ruffle, going around and around in circles until you have the desired size flower. Keep your needle in the down position so you can turn without shifting the piece. Tuck the end under and stitch in place to finish.
4. Ruffle the stem portion and sew it in place. If you like, you can first attach it with a bit of appliqué glue.
Make 7 rosettes with leaves, sewing them to the patchwork bag front as shown in the photo. Make 3 extra leaves and tack them to the bag front at the lower left side of the flower arrangement.
1. Center and press the fusible fleece onto the wrong side of each handle strip.
2. Fold each handle in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press. Sew the long raw edges together. Turn and press with the seam in the center. Topstitch ⅛” from the long edges of each handle.
3. Fold the front and back panels in half and mark the center top of each with a pin.
4. For both the front and back, mark 3” to each side of the center top, and then mark 2” below each of these marks for the handle placement. With the seam sides out and the handle hanging down, pin the raw handle edges in place at the marks and stitch ½” from the ends. Fold the handle back up, covering the raw ends; stitch across the handle 1” above the fold.
1. To make the lining pocket, follow the instructions for the outside patchwork pocket (page 52), eliminating the border strips and ribbon trim.
2. Topstitch the top of the pocket (at the fold) after you turn and press it for a decorative look and to hold the layers neatly together.
3. Sew the pocket to the front lining panel and stitch the divider as for the outside pocket.
Attach the bag sides to the zipper placket
1. Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the outer fabric side panels, and fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining side panels.
2. Attach the side panels to the ends of the zipper placket 1 side at a time, creating a “sandwich”: Layer 1 side lining panel right side up, the zipper placket with the outer fabric right side up, and 1 outer fabric side panel wrong side up, as shown.
3. Pin, then sew the raw edges together and press.
4. Press the assembled placket/side open. Pin the side lining piece back under the zipper placket to hold the lining out of the way. Sew ribbon trim along the top edge of the side outer fabric panel, stitching along both long edges of the trim. Unpin the lining.
5. Repeat Steps 2–4 to add the remaining side panel.
Attach the front and back panels
note: I’ve had you make the side pieces extra long. This way, there’s room for error if the front and back are not attached perfectly. You’ll just need to trim the sides to match the front and back panels before you sew the bottom on.
1. Fuse the fleece to the wrong sides of the bag front and back outer fabric. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong sides of the bag front and back lining fabric.
2. Mark the center on the front and back panels and on the zipper placket/side panels. (Fold each in half to find the center and mark with a pin.)
3. Layer the front lining panel right side up, the zipper placket/side panels right side up (zipper pull faces up), and the front outside panel wrong side up. Sew the curved edges of the layers together. Clip the curves, turn, and press.
4. Repeat Step 3 to assemble the back, the remaining edge of the zipper placket, and the back lining panel.
1. Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the bottom outer fabric. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the bottom lining fabric.
2. Fold the bottom pieces in half and mark the center with a pin. Do the same for the front and back panel pieces.
3. Matching the centers, layer the bottom lining piece right side up, the front panel with the outer fabric right side up, and the outer bottom panel wrong side up. Sew the 3 layers together, starting and stopping ¼” from the ends; backstitch at both ends.
note: In the next 2 steps you will just be sewing the outside bottom together. There will be 2 layers sewn together at this point instead of the 3 you were sewing together before.
4. Unzip the zipper and turn the bag wrong side out. Match the center of the outer bottom panel to the center of the outer back panel with right sides together. Sew the 2 layers together, starting and stopping ¼” from the ends; backstitch at both ends of the stitching.
5. With right sides together, pin the short ends of the outer bottom to the outer side panels. Sew the 2 layers together at each end, backstitching at both ends of the stitching.
6. Press the 3 unfinished edges of the bottom lining piece ¼” in toward the wrong side of the fabric.
7. Insert the plastic canvas bottom between the lining bottom and outside bottom pieces. Glue in place using fabric glue.
8. Whipstitch the bottom lining piece to the side panel and back panel lining pieces.
9. Press and turn the bag right side out. Press all of the seams again for a neat, crisp look.
