Enjoying views of Mount Hood from the hilltop Pittock Mansion next to Washington Park.
Extending 8 miles from the heart of Portland’s West Hills, Forest Park points like a lush green finger toward the mouth of the Columbia River. At 5,100 acres, it’s the U.S.’s largest natural forested area within city limits, with 8 square miles of fern-filled ravines, rushing streams, and towering firs, cedars, maples, and alders. The city’s green playground is spiderwebbed with more than 80 miles of trails and fire lanes for hiking, biking, and running, and it is home to over 112 bird and 62 mammal species. There’s no visitor center or main entrance; instead, at least 17 access points circle the park edge. (One main gateway is the start of Leif Erikson Drive, a 12-mile gravel road, at the end of NW Thurman St.) The west end of the park, away from downtown, is much wilder than the more heavily visited eastern end. START: Drive to 5151 NW Cornell Rd.
❶ ★ 
Audubon Nature Sanctuary. Tucked up against Forest Park’s southern side, this wildlife rehabilitation center is home to all kinds of injured critters being nursed back to health (or simply given a place to live), from coyotes to bald eagles. Sometimes they’ll bring the animals out for up-close encounters. There’s a gift shop and 150 acres of forest with a few miles of trails, including a newt-filled pond. It’s also a good starting point for the Wildwood and Upper MacLeay trails in Forest Park proper. See p 21, bullet ❷.
Budding naturalists in Forest Park.
❷ ★★ Wildwood Trail. Forest Park’s longest trail is 27 sinuous miles of fern-lined curves, stream crossings, and switchbacks (plus another three in Washington Park). This National Recreation Trail is marked by blue diamonds and mile markers every quarter mile, which make it easy to take it in pieces; almost every loop hike in the park involves the Wildwood. Its eastern end sees a good bit of foot traffic, while its west end is in the wilder western part of the park.
❸ ★ Fat Tire Farm. Close to 30 miles of fire roads in Forest Park are open to mountain bikers. (Hiking trails, though, are not.) To try a few out, head to this bike shop 1 mile down Thurman Street from the Leif Erickson Drive entrance, and rent a high-end mountain bike for the day. 2714 NW Thurman St. (at 27th Ave.). ☎ 503/222-3276. www.fattirefarm.com. Bikes are $50–$200 for 24 hr. Mon–Fri 11am–7pm; Sat 10am–6pm; Sun noon–5pm.
Fuel up for your hike (or recover afterward) with the healthy soups, panini, and tasty rice-and-bean bowls at 
The Clearing Café downhill from the Leif Erikson Drive entrance. 2772 NW Thurman St. (at 27th Ave.). ☎ 503/841-6240. $.
❺ ★ Stone House. This old restroom near Balch Creek, built by the Works Progress Administration in 1936, has grown evocatively moss-covered and roofless over the decades. It’s a good place to take a break and ogle the park’s largest tree: a 242-foot Douglas fir with a trunk 171⁄3-feet in diameter. Reach it via the easy 1-mile Lower Macleay Trail from Lower Macleay Park (NW Upshur St. entrance).
Closer to downtown, Washington Park is Forest Park’s more urbane neighbor, covering 410 acres of wooded hills between West Burnside Street and U.S. 26. It’s basically an extension of the same steep forests that characterize Forest Park, but it offers visitors more developed attractions in a smaller space. Cougars don’t roam the woods any more like they did in the 19th century, but plenty of dogs do, with their jogging owners in tow, on the park’s 15-plus miles of trails. There’s a Woodlands Trail, a Wildwood Trail, a Spruce Trail, a Hemlock Trail—well, you get the idea. A shuttle bus runs from the Washington Park MAX station (the deepest transit station in North America, at 260 ft. down) to the Japanese and rose gardens and the arboretum (daily June–Sept, and on weekends in May and Oct). START: MAX Washington Park; Bus 63 on weekdays only.
❶ ★★★ Hoyt Arboretum. This 187-acre reserve is much more than a woodsy park—it’s a living museum of plants, with more than 8,000 shrubs and trees representing over 1,000 species from around the world, including dozens of species that are endangered in the wild. They’re all thoughtfully organized according to where they came from and how they’re related. There are always seasonal highlights, from the magnificent magnolias in the spring to fiery-colored maples in the fall and witch hazels in mid-winter. Twelve miles of hiking trails wind through the arboretum, including the Wildwood Trail that continues into Forest Park. At the visitor center, you can pick up maps for suggested routes of 1, 2, or 4 miles; 90-minute guided tours are offered on Saturdays at noon in the summer and fall. Visitor Center: 4000 SW Fairview Blvd. ☎ 503/865-8733. Free admission; guided tours $3 per person, most Sat late June–Sept. Visitor center open Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; Sat–Sun 9am–3pm. Grounds open 6am–10pm daily. MAX: Washington Park. Bus: 63 on weekdays only.
Strolling through Hoyt Arboretum.
❷ ★ Vietnam Veterans of Oregon Memorial. On the south edge of the arboretum, this monument centers on a curved wall of black granite listing the names of Oregonians who died or went missing in action in Vietnam, echoing the more famous memorial in Washington, D.C. A spiral path leads past smaller walls with narratives from the conflict contrasted with local events. 4000 SW Canyon Rd. Open daily 5am–10pm. MAX: Washington Park. Bus: 63 on weekdays only.
❸ ★ 
World Forestry Discovery Center Museum. The timber industry’s major role in the development of the Pacific Northwest is the focus of this interactive museum geared mostly toward kids. Learn about the creatures that live under the forest floor, and ride into the (simulated) canopy of the Amazon rainforest. Out front sits “Peggy,” a 331⁄2-ton locomotive built in 1909, that hauled a billion feet of logs, more or less, in a 41-year career. See p 22, bullet ❸.
❹ ★★ 
Portland Children’s Museum. Are the tykes tired of trees? The Children’s Museum isn’t huge, but it packs a lot into a modest space: a treehouse for story time, a studio for making art from recycled materials, a miniature grocery store complete with shopping carts and scanners. Kids 8 and under or so will love this place, often pleading for repeat visits to try it all. Traveling exhibits, classes, and visiting artists, musicians, and storytellers mean there’s always something new on. See p 27, bullet ❷.
❺ ★★ 
Oregon Zoo. Completing the child-friendly trifecta at the southern end of Washington Park, Portland’s zoo began in the 1880s with two bears—a grizzly named Grace and a brown bear named Brownie—and snowballed from there. Now it’s the most popular paid attraction in the state, with 64 acres of felines, canines, primates, and pachyderms. Successful breeding programs for Asian elephants and California condors are the backbone of the zoo’s conservation efforts. Two seasonal events pack in even more visitors: a summer evening open-air concert series and a winter holiday light show, best viewed from the 5⁄6-scale steam train that chugs as far as the Japanese and Rose Test gardens. See p 15, bullet ❶.
No relation to the zoo, the 
Elephants Deli just outside the park has wood-fired pizza, grilled sandwiches, and a sorely tempting dessert case. Try the garlic fries or a salad from the cold case. 115 NW 22nd Ave. (at Davis St.). ☎ 503/299-6304. $$.
❼ ★★★ Portland Japanese Garden. Near the top of Portland’s must-see list is this tranquil oasis of gravel paths, koi ponds, pavilions, stone lanterns, and painstakingly manicured trees and shrubs. It’s considered to be the most authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan. Plus, the views of Mount Hood from the Pavilion are outstanding. See p 15, bullet ❶.
Elephants at the Oregon Zoo.
❽ ★★★ International Rose Test Garden. Portland’s floral showpiece was conceived in the chaos of World War I, when local rose hobbyists feared the bombs raining down on Europe might snuff out entire breeds. Today it’s home to about 10,000 blooming bushes, with a focus on new hybrids. How pretty is this place? Put it this way: Every January 1st, even before the gardens open, there’s already a line of couples outside applying for permits to have their weddings here. Kids may not be thrilled by rows upon rows of flowers, but just down SW Kingston Avenue is the Rose Garden Children’s Park, a sprawling playground next to a picnic shelter in the zoo’s old elephant barn. See p 13, bullet ❿.
Relaxing on the lawn outside the Pittock Mansion..
❾ ★★ Pittock Mansion. While not technically in Washington Park, the mansion owned by Portland pioneer Henry Pittock is just across West Burnside Avenue (be careful crossing!) via the Wildwood Trail, and it’s well worth a detour. Henry and his wife Georgiana, both first-generation Oregon immigrants, built this 23-room home in 1914 and lived in it until they died. Perched 1,000 feet above the city, the house incorporates English, French, and Turkish designs, but was built by Oregon craftsmen using Northwest materials. You can tour the interior or just enjoy the grounds, gardens, and views of Mt. Hood—first climbed by Pittock and four friends in 1854. See p 12, bullet ❾.
❿ ★ Sacagawea Statue. In the far northeast corner of the park, you’ll find a relic of the Lewis & Clark Exposition held in 1905: a bronze sculpture of Sacagawea, the Shoshone woman who guided Lewis and Clark’s expedition. Holding her baby Jean-Baptiste, she stands on a craggy boulder pointing to the horizon. Sculpted by Alice Cooper, the 7-foot-tall statue was the centerpiece of the expedition’s main plaza; after the fair closed, the statue was moved here in 1906. It’s located, appropriately enough, near the Lewis & Clark Memorial, a tall granite column erected in 1908. SW Lewis & Clark Way. Open daily 5am–10pm. MAX: Washington Park. Bus: 63 on weekdays only.
It’s official: Portland is the most bike-crazy city in the country, with the highest percentage of cycling commuters (around 7%), some 315 miles of bikeways and bike lanes, and annual bike-related events like the 2-week Pedalpalooza every June. At last count the city boasted more than 30 artisan bike builders, a dozen bike clothing manufacturers, and some 75 bicycle sales/repair shops. This rolling tour offers a taste of what cycling in the City of Roses is all about. (A word of caution: Even though local motorists are used to driving around cyclists, and a surprising number of riders don’t wear helmets, you should always wear one.) START: MAX Oak/SW 1st Ave.; Bus 16.
❶ ★ Waterfront Bicycle Rentals. Didn’t bring your own wheels? Don’t worry—they have you covered here, with hybrid city-ready bikes for rent, as well as kids’ models, tandems, child trailers, and car bike racks. All rentals include a helmet, lock, map, and light. 10 SW Ash St. #100 (at Naito Pkwy.). ☎ 503/227-1719. www.waterfrontbikes.com. Daily 10am–6pm. Rentals $9/hr., $28/half-day, $40/24 hr., $100/week.
❷ ★ Travel Portland Visitor Information Center. If you did bring your own bike, or if you just need a little more guidance (and a super-handy Bike There! map), head to Pioneer Courthouse Square for some in-person riding advice. Odds are, whoever’s behind the counter got there on two wheels him- or herself that morning. 701 SW 6th Ave., Pioneer Courthouse Square. ☎ 503/275-8355. www.travelportland.com. Mon–Fri 8:30am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–4pm; Sun May–Oct 10am–2pm.
Time for some leg gasoline—sorry, caffeine—at this fittingly cycle-centric little coffee roaster and cafe, 
Courier Coffee Bar. (They deliver their beans all over town–by bike, of course.) 923 SW Oak St. ☎ 503/545-6444. $.
❹ ★★ Governor Tom McCall Waterfront Park. If you only ride one place in town, it should be through this skinny park along the Willamette, which makes a great start for longer rides as well. Stretching from the Steel Bridge almost to the Marquam (I-5) bridge, it passes fountains, cherry trees, the Saturday Market, and the 1947 stern-wheeler Portland (now home to the Oregon Maritime Museum; see p 53). It’s also one segment of a popular 3-mile loop that crosses the Steel and Hawthorne bridges to the Eastbank Esplanade (see below). See p 9, bullet ❷.
❺ ★★ Hawthorne Bridge. Cross the river on the country’s oldest vertical-lift bridge, opened in 1910 and made bike-friendly in 1999 with wide sidewalks on both sides. Now it’s Oregon’s busiest bicycle bridge, with some 5,000 riders rolling across every day.
❻ ★★ 
Vera Katz Eastbank Esplanade. Opened in 2001, this 1.5-mile bike and walking trail (named for former Mayor Vera Katz) links the Steel and Hawthorne bridges on the east bank of the Willamette. It crosses a 1,200-foot floating walkway under the Burnside Bridge and is one of the best places to see Portland’s skyline in all its riparian glory. See p 67, bullet ❶.
❼ ★ 
Springwater Corridor. Once a railroad that hauled passengers and produce, this 21-mile paved trail leads south from the Hawthorne Bridge and OMSI to the Sellwood neighborhood, home to Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge and Oaks Amusement Park. It’s 4 miles to Sellwood, a scenic out-and-back ride along the river. From there, the trail turns east as part of the 40-mile loop around most of Portland (www.40mileloop.org). See p 68, bullet ❸.
Let’s Roll
If you’d like to explore more of the city, the Portland Bureau of Transportation offers free guided bike rides on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings at 6pm in the summer, arranged around themes such as public art and nature. The Tuesday rides start at Unthank Park (N. Failing St. at N. Commercial Ave.), and Wednesday rides start at Wellington Park (NE Mason St. at 67th Ave.). ☎ 503/823-5185; www.portlandonline.com/transportation.
❽ ★ Clinton Neighborhood. After a detour down the Springwater Corridor and back, head east to this quintessential cycling neighborhood along SE Clinton Street and its popular bike path. There are dozens of places to eat, drink, and shop, concentrated around SE 21st and 26th avenues and at the “Seven Corners” intersection of SE Division Street and SE 20th Avenue. Look for the huge wheel of the penny-farthing outside A Better Cycle (2324 SE Division St.; ☎ 503/265-8595), a worker-owned bike shop. See p 68, bullet ❹.
Cyclists on the bike-friendly Hawthorne Bridge.
❾ ★ Tilikum Crossing Bridge. Returning west on Division Street, between SE 8th and SE 9th avenues across the train tracks you’ll find SE Tilikum Way, leading to the new Tilikum Crossing Bridge, opened in 2015. It’s the country’s longest bridge dedicated exclusively to bikes, pedestrians, and public transportation (i.e., no cars allowed) and offers a great connection between the Central Eastside and OMSI over to the new high-rise South Waterfront District on the west side, with great city views along the way. South Waterfront OHSU Commons (west side) or SE Division St. (east side).
Under the Tilikum Crossing bridge, follow the Eastbank Esplanade upriver to the Moda Center arena, where N. Interstate Avenue and then N. Williams Avenue take you to reach 
Hopworks BikeBar, the cycle-themed brewpub decorated with bike frames. Enjoy a giant pretzel and a pint from Hopworks Urban Brewery on the back patio—you earned it. 3947 N. Williams St. at Failing St. ☎ 503/237-6258. $.
⓫ ★ Steel Bridge. Return to the Eastbank Esplanade and complete your tour by crossing over the most eye-catching of Portland’s bike-friendly bridges. Riders and pedestrians take a 220-foot cantilevered walkway suspended over the river, added on the south side in 2001. See p 17, bullet ❼. •
