The St. John’s Bridge rises over Northwest Portland.
Downtown Portland is surprisingly compact and manageable for the heart of the state’s largest city. Busy as it may be, it’s still possible to walk from one end to the other in 30 minutes or less. Along with a mass of offices and government buildings, downtown is home to Oregon’s largest university (Portland State) as well as plenty of shops, restaurants, and cultural venues to keep you entertained. Alternatives to walking or biking are the MAX light rail, buses, or the streetcar. START: Streetcar at SW 11th & Clay, bus: 6, 43, 45, 55, 58, or 68.
The Ira Keller Fountain evokes Northwest mountain waterfalls.
❶ ★ The Old Church. Built of wood in a style known as Carpenter Gothic, this ornate Victorian beauty started as a Presbyterian church in 1883, making it one of the oldest buildings in the Pacific Northwest. Today it’s owned by a nonprofit organization and hosts music concerts and other public events. Many of the original architectural features have been preserved, including hand-carved fir pews and built-in umbrella racks. 
15 min. 1422 SW 11th Ave. ☎ 503/222-2031. www.oldchurch.org. Open Mon–Fri 11am–3pm. Self-guided tours are free; admission varies by scheduled event.
❷ ★ Portland State University. With 30,000 students, the largest university in Oregon anchors the southern end of downtown with its leafy 49-acre urban campus. A large percentage of the student body is older—the average age for undergrads is around 25—and many classes meet in the evenings and on weekends. 15 min. Btw. SW Market St, SW 3rd Ave. & I-405. ☎ 503/725-3000. www.pdx.edu.
❸ ★ South Park Blocks. Thank Portland cofounder Daniel Lownsdale for this strip of 12 grassy blocks leading from the PSU campus into the center of downtown. Four years after buying up most of what would become downtown Portland in 1848, Lownsdale donated the land to the city (some say, to guard his property from forest fires). 30 min. SW Park Ave. btw. Salmon & Hall sts. Open daily
❹ ★ 
Ira Keller Fountain Park. When this urban park and waterfall designed by famed San Francisco architect Lawrence Halprin was unveiled in 1970, New York Times architectural critic Ada Louise Huxtable hailed it “the greatest public fountain since the Renaissance.” Maybe that’s overdoing it, but the fountain has stood the test of time. Its design, with pools, streams, stepping stones, and tall vertical planes (all made of concrete) is meant to evoke Oregon’s many mountain waterfalls. It’s designed so you can walk to the top and look over (there’s a 3-foot lip hidden under the water at the edge). 15 min. SW 3rd Ave. & SW Clay St.
❺ ★ RiverPlace. Portland’s urban downtown meets its lifeblood river here at this modern 50-acre development between the noisy Marquam (I-5) and Hawthorne bridges. RiverPlace combines condos, townhomes, shops, and a hotel with a public marina and a popular riverbank park; an extension of the riverfront pedestrian esplanade leads past a row of shops and restaurants that are packed with people on sunny afternoons. 1 hr. Btw. SW Harbor Way & SW Montgomery St. Streetcar: SW River Pkwy & Moody.
Pioneer Courthouse Square is a prime spot for people-watching.
Tasty soups and sandwiches are the order of the day at the snug 
Little River Café in the middle of the RiverPlace esplanade. There’s not much space inside, but the outside seats are great for watching local “dragonboats” paddle up and down the river. 315 SW Montgomery St. #310. ☎ 503/227-2327. www.littlerivercafe.com. Hours vary with season; in summer 7am–8:30pm Mon–Thurs, 7am–9pm Fri–Sun. $.
❼ ★ City Hall. Built in 1895, the home of Portland’s City Council underwent a full renovation in the 1990s, restoring the four-story Italianate building to its original glory. Commissioned artworks, both permanent and temporary, decorate the interior. 15 min. 1221 SW 4th Ave. ☎ 503/823-4000. www.portlandonline.com. Mon–Fri. 9am–4pm.
❽ ★★ Portlandia sculpture. Before there was Portlandia the TV series, there was Portlandia the sculpture: the nation’s second-largest hammered-copper statue, after the Statue of Liberty. Based on the city seal, the 34-foot-high “Lady Commerce,” installed in 1985, kneels over the entrance to Michael Graves’ ugly and much-despised postmodern Portland Building, holding a trident in one hand and reaching down with the other. 1120 SW 5th Ave. btw. Madison & Main sts.
Benson Bubblers
In 1912, a local lumber baron, philanthropist, and teetotaler named Simon Benson noticed that his mill workers’ breath smelled of booze. Upon learning that fresh water was hard to find downtown, Benson donated $10,000 to the city to install 20 bronze drinking fountains. (His ploy worked: Beer consumption allegedly fell 25%.) There are now 52 “Benson bubblers” throughout Portland, mostly downtown, including the original four-bowl fountain at SW 5th Avenue and Washington Street. (Another 74 single-bowl versions were added later.) They’re cleaned regularly and flow daily with fresh Bull Run drinking water.
One of the many Benson Bubbler drinking fountains around downtown.
❾ ★ Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall. The most historic of the three properties that make up the Portland Center for the Performing Arts, “the Schnitz,” as it’s known locally, is the last of the grand old theaters that once lined Broadway. Built in 1928, it was a vaudeville house and movie theater before being restored in 1984 to its original Hollywood Moorish splendor. The distinctive 65-foot “Portland” sign outside is lit with more than 5,000 lights. The superlative Oregon Symphony and the White Bird Dance Company perform here, along with various art programs and lectures. 1037 SW Broadway at Main St. ☎ 503/248-4335. www.pcpa.com. Ticket prices and showtimes vary.
❿ ★ 
Central Library. There’s something for everyone at the Multnomah County Library’s main branch, a Georgian-style building with a sweeping central staircase, three-story atrium, and cozy children’s library. See p 39, bullet ❸.
⓫ ★★ 
Pioneer Courthouse Square. Shoemaker Elijah Hill purchased this downtown block in 1849 for $24 and a pair of high boots. Since then it’s hosted the city’s first school, the second-oldest federal courthouse in the West (the 1875 Pioneer Courthouse, still standing, for which the square is named), and, today, more visitors than any other place in downtown Portland. See p 9, bullet ❶.
Northwest of downtown, Portland neighborhoods run the gamut from the art galleries, eateries, and condos of the upscale Pearl district to the slightly more disheveled streets of Old Town and Chinatown. Once a grubby district of warehouses and light industry, “the Pearl” is a case study in urban revitalization at its best, while Old Town holds on to its history, at least architecturally. (By the way, “Couch” street is pronounced “cooch,” not like the piece of furniture.) START: Streetcar NW 10th and Marshall.
❶ ★ Tanner Springs Park. A quiet haven of burbling water and reedy grasses, this park re-creates a pocket of Portland’s original wetlands and the stream that ran through it. A short walking trail leads past benches along a creek, and the east edge has a striking art installation: a wave-like wall of rusted railroad tracks studded with blue glass. 15 min. NW Marshall & 11th aves.
❷ ★ 
Jamison Square Park. Just 2 blocks away is another water-centric park, this one focused on a large fountain designed to mimic a tidal pool, with water spilling over low steps into a shallow pool that periodically empties and refills. Take a look at the contemporary totem poles on 10th Street, the red-granite statue of a brown bear, and the urbane little French-style bosque. The park is named for William Jamison, whose art gallery got the Pearl District revitalization going in the 1990s. 15 min. NW Johnson & 10th aves.
Union Station with its signature clock tower.
❸ ★ Ecotrust Building. One of the greenest of Portland’s green buildings, this 2001 building made of recycled materials is now home to a collection of sustainable businesses and a Patagonia store. Portions of the original 1895 warehouse still stand along NW 10th Avenue. 721 NW 9th Ave.
❹ ★ Union Station. Portland’s grand rail terminal, built in 1896, reflected the city’s position at the western end of the only sea-level route through the Cascades. The Italian Renaissance–style building was renovated in 1996 after a century of use, and now serves train and intercity bus travelers. Luckily, it kept its signature 150-foot Romanesque clock tower, with the addition of a neon “Go By Train” sign. You can get a taste of the building’s glory days inside at Amtrak’s only first-class Metropolitan Lounge on the West Coast, as well as at Wilfs, 800 NW 6th Ave. (☎ 503/223-0070; www.wilfsrestaurant.com), which combines turn-of-the-century ambience with organic local produce and live jazz from Wednesday through Saturday night. 30 min. 800 NW 6th Ave. at Irving St. ☎ 503/273-4865.
❺ The Armory. Yet another historic building saved from the wrecking ball and repurposed, this unmistakable brick fortress anchors the downtown “Brewery Blocks.” Constructed in 1891 to house the Oregon National Guard, it hosted presidential speeches, symphony concerts, and many, many casks of beer over the next century. A 2006 renovation made it one of the greenest buildings in the country—we’re talking LEED platinum status—and the new home of Portland Center Stage, the city’s largest theater company. The striking building now holds the 600-seat Gerding Theater, a small studio theater, and a cafe. Step into the lobby to see the grand staircase cantilevered off the second-floor balcony and the enormous ceiling trusses that give it such a roomy feel. 15 min. 128 NW 11th Ave. at Davis St. ☎ 503/445-3700. www.pcs.org. Ticket prices and showtimes vary.
Recharge at 
Peet’s Coffee & Tea, a long-established West Coast brand that serves strong coffee, chai lattes, tea drinks, and pastries. 1114 NW Couch. ☎ 971/244-0452. $.
Repurposed on Purpose
Saving grand old buildings and giving them fresh new life helps to preserve Portland’s unique architectural character. The 511 Federal Building at 511 NW Broadway is a case in point. Completed in 1918, this enormous Classical Revival-style structure was first used as a federal post office. A century later it was completely repurposed and reopened in 2015 after a $32-million makeover as the new home of the Pacific Northwest College of Art (www.pnca.edu). Today the building is called the Arlene and Harold Schnitzer Center for Art. Step inside for a look at the ornate interior and new atrium and galleries.
❼ ★ 
North Park Blocks. Disconnected from the South Park Blocks by West Burnside Street, the North Park Blocks have a more urban feel than their counterparts, even though they have just as many old trees lining their sidewalks. The playground and basketball court are both popular, as are various artworks. Look for the 12-foot bronze elephant sculpture between Burnside and Couch streets, an oversize replica of a Shang Dynasty wine pitcher, given to the city by a Chinese foundry owner. William Wegman, known for his photos of Weimaraner dogs, designed the checkerboard granite tiles of the “Portland Dog Bowl” between Davis and Everett streets to mimic a linoleum kitchen floor. Think of the bronze water bowl as a canine version of the Benson bubbler fountains (p 47). 30 min. NW Park Ave. from Ankeny St. to Glisan St. Open daily.
The serene Lan Su Chinese Garden.
❽ ★ Chinatown Gateway. This ornate arch, built in 1985, is an impressive monument to the long history of Portland’s Chinese residents. Artisans from Taiwan put it together and installed the two lion statues on either side. (The one on the left, Yin, protects the young, and Yang, the one on the right, protects the country.) The 38-foot high structure is decorated with 78 dragons and 58 mythical characters, including the Chinese characters for “Portland Chinatown” on the south side and “Four Seas, One Family” on the north side. 5 min. NW 4th Ave. at Burnside St.
Lion statues guard the Chinatown Gateway.
One of Portland’s most distinctive symbols greets drivers and cyclists crossing the Burnside Bridge into downtown: a bounding neon stag above the words “Portland Oregon,” enclosed by an outline of the state. The wording has gone through more revisions than a breakup letter, starting in 1940 when it was built to advertise White Satin Sugar. The building’s next tenant conveniently shared an adjective, so the sign read “White Stag Sportswear” until 1995, when it was changed to read “Made in Oregon,” with “Old Town” the latest subtitle. The current arrangement went up in 2010. (If you’re around during the holidays, notice how easily the stag is transformed into Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer.)
The White Stag sign.
❾ ★ Hung Far Low sign. Chinatown’s other landmark earns its share of giggles, but this pagoda-topped marquee advertised a real restaurant here from 1928 to 2005. (Like many Chinese-owned businesses in Portland, it relocated to SE 82nd Ave.) The two-story, 2,000-pound neon sign was restored and–ahem–re-erected in 2010. 5 min. NW 4th Ave. at Couch St.
❿ ★★★ Lan Su Chinese Garden. Complete your Chinatown visit with a stop at this astonishingly authentic classical Chinese garden, occupying a full block on the neighborhood’s eastern side. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped off a boat in ancient Suzhou, the coastal Chinese city where the entire garden was designed, packed up, and exported to be reassembled here in 2001. In the lakeside Tower of Cosmic Reflections, the pagoda-style Teahouse (☎ 503/224-8455) offers a contemplative spot to watch the light change over the plantings and classical Chinese pavilions. See p 17, bullet ❺.
At the distinctive 
Old Town Pizza, a pizzeria housed in a former hotel, step up to the old reception desk to order a slice, and keep an eye out for Nina, the resident ghost. 
15 min. 226 NW Davis St. ☎ 503/222-9999. $.
⓬ ★ Ankeny Plaza. Once the city’s nexus of business and entertainment, this triangular plaza in Old Town is now home to the popular Portland Saturday Market of craft vendors (see p 78). At the plaza’s center you’ll see the neoclassical bronze and granite Skidmore Fountain, the oldest piece of public art in the city. For the fountain’s grand opening in 1888, local brewer Henry Weinhard offered to pump beer through it using firehoses. (For some reason, city leaders turned him down.) Many of the nearby buildings, built of brick and cast iron in the late 19th century, are part of the Skidmore/Old Town National Historic District. SW 1st Ave. & SW Ankeny St.
A neoclassical bronze detail from the Skidmore Fountain.
⓭ ★ 
Oregon Maritime Museum. After the steam-powered sternwheeler tug Portland—the last of its kind to operate in the United States—was retired in 1981 after 3 decades of service, it was restored to house a collection of maritime artifacts, ship models, and other nautical memorabilia. Youngsters can putter around a children’s corner with a working ship’s whistle and other hands-on goodies. The ship itself is the real attraction, though, as you’ll discover on a tour with one of the expert docents, who will lead you around from pilot house to engine room. 30 min. On the Willamette River in Waterfront Park, at Pine St. ☎ 503/224-7724. www.oregonmaritimemuseum.org. Open Wed, Fri–Sat 11am–4pm. Admission $7 adults, $5 seniors 62 and over and children 6–17.
Portland’s northwest corner is a neighborhood of tree-shaded Victorian homes, postwar apartment buildings, and modern mansions overlooking downtown and the river. It’s one of the city’s wealthier districts, more compact than the flat eastside without feeling claustrophobic—on the contrary, with Arlington Heights and Forest Park rising to the west, it feels more like you’re on the edge of a forest. On weekends and during the summer, visitors flock to the destination shopping and dining streets, NW 21st and NW 23rd avenues. It’s easy to navigate, especially in the “Alphabet District” where the street names are ordered accordingly. START: Bus: 15 or 77; Streetcar: NW 23rd & Marshall.
NW 23rd Avenue shopping.
❶ ★★ Northwest 23rd Avenue. From West Burnside to Thurman Street, NW 23rd Avenue is an almost continuous string of restaurants, cafes, boutiques, coffee shops, and bars. Detractors may dismiss it as “trendy-third,” but it’s the commercial heart of this part of town, and definitely one of the destination shopping and dining stretches in Portland. There’s a lovely residential area around NW 23rd and Lovejoy, where most of the Victorian- and Edwardian-era homes are located, called Nob Hill because it was built to rival San Francisco. The south end near Burnside is home to large chain stores like Pottery Barn, Urban Outfitters, and Restoration Hardware. As you head north, you’ll find more distinctive local places like Gilt Jewelry (720 NW 23rd Ave. at Johnson St.), Two Tarts Bakery (2309 NW Kearney St. at 23rd Ave.), and Shogun’s Gallery (1111 NW 23rd Ave. at Marshall St.). Businesses peter out around Thurman Street, but take a left (west) for another 6 long blocks of options, plus, eventually, one of the main entrances to Forest Park (see p 86). 11⁄2 hr.
Portland’s population doubled between 1900 and 1910, a period of unprecedented growth not unlike what the city is experiencing today. That spurt of newbies was due, in large part, to the Lewis and Clark Exposition of 1905, a well-planned exercise in city boosterism that introduced tens of thousands of visitors to the city. The Exposition, which celebrated the 100th anniversary of Lewis and Clark’s arrival, was a gigantic affair held on a site in Northwest Portland designed by John Olmsted, stepson of Frederick Law Olmsted, who designed New York’s Central Park. In addition to gardens and pavilions, the Exposition featured a huge man-made lake and the world’s largest log cabin, a Portland landmark until it burned down in the 1960s. Among other things, the Exposition spurred a new streetcar line and the creation of Oaks Park in Sellwood. Unfortunately, nothing remains of the Exposition site today: It’s an industrial area next to the Vaughn Street exit of the I-5 freeway.
❷ ★ Northwest 21st Avenue. Two blocks east, NW 21st Avenue is similar to 23rd but leans more toward the food and drink side of things rather than upscale shopping. Take your pick from outstanding pastries at Ken’s Artisan Bakery (338 NW 21st Ave. at Flanders), Italian and a chic bar at Caffe Mingo (807 NW 21st Ave. at Kearney St.), or French cooking at Paley’s Place (1204 NW 21st Ave. at Northrup St.). The Chop Butchery & Charcuterie (735 NW 21st Ave. at Johnson St.) offers sandwiches and all things meat. The avenue is not all about eating, though; Cinema 21 (616 NW 21st Ave. at Irving St.) shows independent and art-house movies. 11⁄2 hr.
❸ ★ Northwest 20th Avenue historic houses. Gorgeous homes from the 1890s to the 1930s are everywhere up here, but you can find three excellent examples within a few blocks of Irving Street on 20th Avenue. (Keep in mind they’re all private homes.) The 1892 Richardsonian Romanesque Revival at 615 NW 20th Ave. at Hoyt Street has the slate shingles, substantial stonework, and arched entrance porch that recall other examples of the style (Trinity Church in Boston, the American Museum of Natural History in New York City). The 1908 Colonial Revival at 733 NW 20th Ave. at Johnson Street was designed after a mid-18th-century Georgian colonial home in Pennsylvania, and the 1910 Craftsman at 811 NW 20th Ave. at Johnson Street is another example of the simple but handsome style. 30 min.
The singular 
Mission Theater & Pub started as a Swedish Evangelical Mission in 1912, then served as a Longshoreman’s Union hall before becoming Oregon’s first theater-pub. Sit in the balcony or on the floor for recent movies, cult films, live music, or sporting events projected on a big screen. It’s a McMenamins’ joint, so, of course, pub fare, handcrafted ales, and wine are on sale. Thursday is pizza, pint, and popcorn night for $10. 1 hr. 1624 NW Glisan St. at 17th Ave. ☎ 503/223-4527. www.mcmenamins.com. Admission $4 adults, $3 children 11 and under. Age 21 and over only, unless accompanied by parent. Event hours vary.
❺ ★ Steven Smith Teamaker. The local founder of both Stash Tea and Tazo Tea has launched his own line of small-batch teas using rare, high-quality ingredients. You can come by the facility, an old blacksmith shop, to taste a cup or see the teas being made and packaged. If you’re inspired, you can even blend your own batch. 30 min. 1626 NW Thurman St., ☎ 503/719-8752 or 800/624-9531. www.smithtea.com. Open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. Free admission.
A Swift September
Every evening in September, about an hour before sunset, hundreds of people congregate around Chapin Elementary School, which sits in the middle of Wallace Park (west of NW 25th Ave. btw. Pettygrove and Raleigh sts). They bring their own chairs or blankets and camp out to watch a very special phenomenon: The Swift Watch. Thousands of migrating Vaux’s swifts circle in a vortex-like cloud around the school’s chimney, before flying in to roost for the night. If you’re a birder, or have kids, this is a sight worth planning for. For information, go to www.audubonportland.org.
❻ ★ Clear Creek Distillery. Traditional European brandy-making techniques meet northwest Oregon’s bounty of fruit at this artisan distillery, producer of fruit eaux de vie, grappas, and wine brandies. They only offer public tours around Memorial Day and Thanksgiving, but their tasting room and store are open year-round. Come by to learn about the process and sample spirits like their pear eaux de vie, with the pear grown inside the bottle, or their Islay-style Oregon single malt whiskey. 30 min. 2389 NW Wilson St. ☎ 503/248-9470. www.clearcreekdistillery.com. Open Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Free admission.
Northeast Portland is home to two of the oldest neighborhoods outside of the city center. Northeast Alberta Street between 12th and 33rd avenues—now known as the Alberta Arts District—has been “discovered” by young professionals looking for affordable real estate and a lively cultural mix, where Hispanic, Asian, and African-American businesses rub shoulders with hip cafes, boutiques, and trendy eateries. South of the Alberta Arts District, you may also want to stroll around the residential district known as Irvington, which lies between NE Fremont and NE Broadway streets. It’s filled with a wonderful array of houses dating from the early 1900s to the late 1940s. At its western end is Grant Park, site of the Beverly Cleary Sculpture Garden (see p. 30). START: Bus 8 or 72.
❶ ★ One Stop Sustainability Shop. One of Portland’s most common buzzwords, sustainability, is what this store is all about. Here you’ll find everything from cleaning products to toys and pet beds that are nontoxic, fair-trade, recycled, and/or biodegradable, and often locally made. They offer classes on everything from candle-making and cooking to holiday crafts and winemaking. 30 min. 1468 NE Alberta St. ☎ 503/241-5404. www.growandmake.com. Open Tues–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat & Sun 10am–5pm.
The colorful mural of Community Cycling Center.
❷ ★ Community Cycling Center. Few places embody Portland’s two-wheeled ethos as robustly as this nonprofit bike shop. They don’t just fix and sell bikes, parts, and accessories—they also offer year-round programs that help get citizens up and rolling, including bike camps, bike clubs, maintenance classes, and bike drives for low-income families. 15 min. 1700 NE Alberta St. at 17th Ave. ☎ 503/287-8786. www.communitycyclingcenter.org. Open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
If some of the street names in Portland sound familiar, thank local son Matt Groening, creator of the TV hits The Simpsons and Futurama, who grew up in the Rose City.
In the Alphabet Historic District in Northwest Portland, look for (Mr.) Burns(ide), (Ned) Flanders, (Reverend) Lovejoy, and (Mayor) Quimby Streets. Mr. Burns’s first name, Montgomery, also appears on a winding road in Southwest Portland, right by Washington Park.
Springfield has its own Springfield Gorge, which sounds an awful lot like the Columbia River Gorge. The Murderhorn, Springfield’s highest peak, echoes Mount Hood.
And that benighted nuclear power plant where Homer Simpson works? That may have been based on the Trojan Nuclear Power Plant in Rainier, 46 miles north of Portland, which was decommissioned after 16 years due to safety and seismic concerns.
D’oh!
Refuel at 
Random Order Pie Bar with a cup of java and a slice of homemade pie, either sweet or savory. Brandied peach and salted caramel apple are both specialties, and the Catalan vegetable potpie is enough for a meal. 1800 NE Alberta St. at 18th Ave. ☎ 971/340-6995. www.randomordercoffee.com. Open Mon 6:30am–8pm; Tues–Sun 6:30am–11pm. $.
❹ ★ 
Backyard Bird Shop. Birding is big in Portland, so if you have any Interest in our winged wonders, head over to this shop. It’s not fancy, but it carries just about everything you need to nurture the birds in your backyard. There are feeders of every size, shape, and description, plus bulk birdseed mixes, birdhouses, birdbaths, and more. 1419 NE Fremont. ☎ 503/455-2699. www.backyardbirdshop.com. Open Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–5pm.
❺ ★ 
Vernon Tank Playground. This small park and playground sits in the shadow of two huge cylindrical water tanks that look like something out of War of the Worlds. It’s an odd mix, but it works; if the kids get tired of the swings and slides, you can play escape-the-invaders-from-outer-space instead. 30 min. NE 21st Ave. & Prescott St. Open 5am–10pm.
The restaurant at the remodeled Kennedy School, now a hotel.
❻ ★ Guardino Gallery. Of all the galleries on Alberta Street, Guardino has the most reliably exciting mix of works and styles. From bronze sculptures and acrylic paintings to prints made with rusted car parts on old silk, there’s always something unexpectedly intriguing on display. In the same building, you’ll find the HiiH Gallery, selling handmade paper lamps; Redbird Studio, with handmade cards, stationery, clothes, and crafts; and Suzette, a creperie. 1 hr. 2939 NE Alberta St. at 29th Ave. ☎ 503/281-9048. www.guardinogallery.com. Open Tues 11am–5pm; Wed–Sat 11am–6pm; Sun 11am–4pm.
❼ ★ Alberta Rose Theatre. Yet another lovingly resurrected old theater, the 300-seat Alberta Rose started as a motion picture house in 1927, operated until 1978, and then sat dark for over 20 years. Now, however, it’s a cultural fixture of the Albert Arts District, having been reborn as a space for independent films, comedy, acoustic music, and other live performances. During the show, they also serve regional libations and handmade Australian-style pies and other snacks. If you can, catch one of the regular tapings of Live Wire! Radio, a modern take on multi-performer vaudeville shows. 2 hr. 3000 NE Alberta St. at 30th Ave. ☎ 503/719-6055. www.albertarosetheatre.com. Showtimes vary, and some performances are 21 and over only.
❽ ★★ McMenamins Kennedy School. Detention never sounded as appealing as it does at this 1912 grade school, renovated and reopened in 1997 as a combination hotel, restaurant, and movie theater. There are no less than five bars on the premises, including the Detention Bar, Honors Bar, and the Boiler Room, all serving beer and other alcoholic tipples from the on-site brewery. Thirty-five guest rooms fill former classrooms, and the walls are covered in original art and historical photos. Relax in the hot outdoor soaking pool or catch a matinee on a couch in the second-run movie theater. For more on the Mecmenamins’ family of hotels, theater, and pubs, see p. 137. 5736 NE 33rd Ave. ☎ 503/249-3983. www.mcmenamins.com.
Portland’s Oldest Rose Garden
Visitors come from around the world to view the roses at the International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park (see p. 13). But Portland’s first and oldest public rose garden, on the east side of town, is well worth visiting, too. Peninsula Park Rose Garden (700 N. Rosa parks Way; ☎ 503/823-3620; www.portlandonline.com/parks) still looks much as it did when it opened in 1913. Planted with over 7,000 roses, Oregon’s only sunken rose garden features a lovely fountain and the city’s sole remaining bandshell. One of Portland’s best-kept secrets, the rose garden is at its fragrant and photogenic best in June.
The giant sunflower painted at the intersection of SE 33rd Avenue and Yamhill Street captures the friendly, community-minded spirit of this part of town, where downtown can seem a world away, even though it’s just a 5-minute drive across the river. The vibe here is mostly laid-back and unpretentious (Hawthorne was the hippie haunt of Portland back in the 1960s and ’70s), with tree-lined streets and sometimes as much bicycle traffic as cars and trucks. START: Bus 14 or 15.
❶ ★ Belmont District. The commercial district on Southeast Belmont Street packs a lot into just a few blocks. You’ll find shopping at eclectic places like Noun (3300 SE Belmont St. at 33rd Ave.), a quirky housewares/antiques store, and Palace (828 SE 34th Ave. at Belmont St.), with upscale new and vintage clothing for men and women. Hungry? Grab a great burger at Dick’s Kitchen (3312 SE Belmont St. at 33rd Ave.) and dessert at Saint Cupcake, which shares a storefront with Noun. Thirsty? Stumptown Coffee Roasters (3356 SE Belmont St. at 33rd Ave.) offers great people-watching, plus free coffee cuppings (aka tastings) daily at noon and 2pm in their Annex two doors down. For nightlife, try the Avalon Theater (see below) or head downstairs to The Liquor Store (3341 SE Belmont St. at 33rd Ave.) for jazz and blues. 1 hr. SE Belmont St. from 33rd to 35th aves.
Quirky antiques and housewares at Noun on Belmont Street.
❷ ★ 
Avalon Theater. Second-run movies and nickel arcade games—is there any better way to stretch your date dollars? Oregon’s oldest theater was also the first in the state with more than one screen. Now it shows films on three screens and fills the rest of the space with skee-ball, air hockey, and video games. You can even redeem your skee-ball tickets for prizes and candy. 1 hr. 3451 SE Belmont St. at 34th Ave. ☎ 503/238-1617. Sun–Fri noon–midnight; Sat 11am–midnight. Movies are $3 for adults, $2.50 for seniors and children 11 and under. Arcade admission $2.90 adults, $2.40 children. Games are 20¢.
❸ ★ 
Historic Belmont Firehouse. Kids and history buffs love this 1912 firehouse, now home to a safety learning center and museum to Portland’s firefighting history. Restored antique gear and equipment, like an 1859 Jeffers Sidestroke Handpump Fire Engine, are on display and, often, touchable. There’s even a fire pole to slide down! 45 min. 900 SE 35th Ave. at 34th Ave. ☎ 503/823-3615. www.jeffmorrisfoundation.org. Open the 2nd Sat of every month, except July, Aug, and Dec, 10am–3pm, or by appointment.
Coffee is definitely Portland’s caffeine of choice, but tea has become increasingly popular. One of the best spots for a freshly brewed cup of organic assam or 0olong is the 
Tao of Tea. The teahouse also offers a nice selection of simple, vegetarian-friendly snacks and meals. 3430 SE Belmont St. ☎ 503/736-0119. www.taooftea.com. $.
❺ ★ Central Hawthorne District. It’s hard to beat Hawthorne Boulevard from 34th to 39th avenues for strollable shopping, eating, and entertainment. The whole commercial stretch runs roughly from 30th to 50th avenues, with everything from brewpubs to vintage clothing stores. The heart of it is in the high 30s, especially the block between 36th and 37th avenues, where you’ll find the historic Bagdad Theater & Pub (see below), a branch of Powell’s Books (3723 SE Hawthorne Blvd. at 36th Ave.) specializing in home and garden titles, and Pastaworks (3735 SE Hawthorne Blvd. at 36th Ave.), a European-style grocery and deli with an on-site eatery called Evoe. Other spots worth a stop are Presents of Mind (3633 SE Hawthorne Blvd. at 36th Ave.) for all things gift-oriented, Imelda’s Shoes and Louie’s Shoes for Men (3426 SE Hawthorne Blvd. at 34th Ave.), and The Perfume House (3328 SE Hawthorne Blvd.) for an outstanding selection of perfumes. 2 hr. SE Hawthorne Blvd. btw. 34th & 39th aves.
Imelda’s Shoes on Hawthorne Boulevard.
❻ ★ 
Bagdad Theater & Pub. One of Portland’s grandest old theaters, veteran of some 25,000 shows over the decades, is now the main anchor of the Hawthorne commercial district. You can see a movie or show inside, knock back a tipple at one of two bars (including one behind the screen), or enjoy a meal and craft-brewed beer at the restaurant, which spills out onto the sidewalk in good weather. The building itself is eye-popping inside, restored to the full opulence of its inauguration in 1927, minus the spouting fountain. See bullet ❾, p 42.
The name 
Fat Straw will make sense when you order your first glass of “boba” (bubble tea), an addictive milky Asian concoction with tapioca balls on the bottom. The less adventurous can go with fresh avocado or coconut-mango smoothies, or regular tea or coffee, and for noshing they serve tasty bánh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches). 4258 SE Hawthorne Blvd. at 42nd Ave. ☎ 503/233-3369. www.fatstrawpdx.com. $.
❽ ★ Mike’s Movie Memorabilia Collection. Ever wonder what happened to the knife from the shower scene in Hitchcock’s Psycho or the monster costume from Young Frankenstein? They’re here, inside the Movie Madness video store, along with other one-of-a-kind cinematic costumes and props. See bullet ❿, p 36.
❾ ★ 
Laurelhurst Park. Sometimes all you need at the end of a good walk is a shady patch of grass, maybe with a playground for the kids or a duck pond nearby. Look no further—Laurelhurst Park has all these and more, including a picnic grove, a hillside of rhododendrons, and trees that wouldn’t be out of place on the slopes of Mt. Hood. Designed by the Olmsted Brothers (sons of the man responsible for New York’s Central Park), in 2001 Laurelhurst became the first Portland city park to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. There’s an off-leash area for dogs and, across Stark Street, a children’s playground next to tennis and basketball courts. (Originally, girls were supposed to play on the north side and boys on the south.) See p 23, bullet ❼.
Feeding the ducks in Laurelhurst Park.
Portland’s inner Southeast district starts with industrial warehouses near the river, but these soon give way to the mostly residential Hosford-Abernethy neighborhood. Cooperative gardens, alternative schools, and chicken coops are the norm around here, and you’ll see more bicycles and baby strollers on the streets than cars. Small commercial hubs along Clinton and Division streets combine restaurants, coffee shops, and unique local businesses like Langlitz Leathers (2443 SE Division St.), creators of the first custom leather motorcycle jacket in 1947, and nearby Loprinzi’s Gym (2414 SE 41st Ave.), an ultra-old-school bodybuilding facility. START: Bus 4, 6, 10, 14, 15, 31, 32, or 33.
❶ ★★ 
Vera Katz Eastbank Esplanade. Start on the east bank of the Willamette, where this paved path runs for 11⁄2 miles from the Hawthorne Bridge to the Steel Bridge, with great river-level views of the city’s downtown skyline. Along the trail you’ll pass public art, map markers, and interpretive panels on the history of the river and the area. A 1,200-foot floating walkway, the longest of its kind in the country, leads under the Burnside Bridge and past a public boat dock. (If you have time, the entire 2-mile loop across the Steel and Hawthorne bridges and through Governor Tom McCall Waterfront Park is a Portland must-do.) The esplanade is named for German-born Vera Katz, who was the first woman to serve as the Speaker of the Oregon House of Representatives and was mayor of Portland from 1993 to 2005. 30 min.
Joggers and cyclists on the Eastbank Esplanade’s floating walkway.
❷ ★ 
Oregon Museum of Science and Industry. At the southern end of the esplanade, “OMSI” boasts all the science-themed learning options you could ask for, from the hands-on exhibits, planetarium, and IMAX theater inside to an actual submarine moored in the river. This end of the Eastbank Esplanade, under the Marquam Bridge that carries I-5, is particularly pretty on sunny days, with views of the Hawthorne Bridge and the South Waterfront. 1 hr. See p 18, bullet ❽.
❸ ★ Springwater Corridor. From OMSI, it’s just a few blocks to the start of this 21-mile multiuse recreation trail that leads south and east through Sellwood to the town of Boring (seriously), part of a 40-mile paved loop that circles the entire city. It’s worth exploring even just the beginning of the trail, which follows old trolley train tracks along the surprisingly green and quiet riverbank. Note: The restored Linneman Trolley Station near Southeast Powell and 185th is a convenient trailhead at which to park your car, fill your water bottles, or use the public restrooms. Another handy Springwater pit stop is at Southeast 136th, where a small market serves up liquid refreshment to thirsty trail warriors. 30 min.
❹ ★ Southeast Clinton Street. The stretch of Clinton Street from 16th to 26th avenues definitely takes the prize for cutest street ramble in this part of town. It’s dotted with local shops, cafes, bars, and restaurants, like the Swedish favorite Bröder (2508 SE Clinton St. at 25th Ave.; ☎ 503/736-3333), all without sacrificing its offbeat residential neighborhood vibe. The art-house Clinton Street Theater (2522 SE Clinton St. at 26th Ave.; ☎ 503/238-8899) has been showing the cult classic The Rocky Horror Picture Show every Saturday night since 1978, the longest run in the world. Beer lovers can even grab a pint at the tiny attached brewpub and bring it in with them. 1 hr.
One of Portland’s best-loved dives, 
Dot’s Kitchen is famous for its authentically awful ’60s decor of velvet paintings and Naugahyde-covered booths. Aesthetics aside, it’s also a place where you can relax with a snack or light meal. 2521 SE Clinton St. ☎ 503/235-0203.
Hands-on chemistry at OMSI.
❻ ★ People’s Food Co-op. To experience Portland’s fresh-local-seasonal-organic foodie mania in its purest essence—you know, the one behind all those “Know Your Farmer” bumper stickers—pop into this cooperative grocery store just south of Clinton Street. Whether it’s local dairy products in glass bottles or hard-to-find bulk items like mulberries and jungle peanuts, they have it, along with prepackaged snack items, a fresh juice cart, and a year-round farmers’ market out front every Wednesday. 15 min. 3029 SE 21st Ave. ☎ 503/674-2642. www.peoples.coop. Daily 8am–10pm.
❼ ★ Ladd’s Addition. North of the Clinton neighborhood is one of the city’s most distinctive residential districts, a diagonal grid extending from Division to Hawthorne streets and 12th to 20th avenues. The highlights for visitors, aside from the general serenity of the place, are the five rose gardens incorporated into its layout. A large central garden and four smaller diamond-shaped ones at the points of the compass are all meticulously tended, with more than 3,000 plants representing over 60 varieties. 45 min. See p 22, bullet ❺.
❽ ★ The Hat Museum. Tucked away in the Ladd-Reingold House, one of Ladd’s Addition’s older homes, is this incredible collection of chapeaus, a private labor of love that’s one of the largest of its kind in the country. Some 1,300 hats date back to 1845 and include hats worn in the movies Gangs of New York and Chicago. A pre-arranged tour is required. 11⁄2 hr. See p 36, bullet ❾.
The food cart “pod” at SE Hawthorne Street and 12th Avenue aka 
Cartopia, was one of the first to really take hold in Portland, and now has covered outdoor seating and an ATM. Take your pick from a vegan apple pie at Whiffies Fried Pies (☎ 503/946-6544), a freshly made wood-oven pizza at Pyro Pizza (☎ 503/929-1404), Belgian-style fries or poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy) at Potato Champion (☎ 503/505-7086), or whichever of the other cart options strikes your fancy. Hours vary, most carts open until 3am. $
❿ ★ Kidd’s Toy Museum. The last stop on this tour is another private collection, this time of vintage games and toys. Owner Frank Kidd is full of stories about the items featured in this multi-room display, which includes an astonishing array of cast-iron mechanical banks and more than a few cringe-inducing examples from the less-PC days of yore. 1 hr. See p 36, bullet ❽.
Although it is technically part of Portland, the Sellwood neighborhood feels more like a distinct village on the banks of the Willamette River, buffered as it is from the greater city by a long sweep of riverside parkland. You don’t have to take a passenger ferry to get here, as folks did in the 19th century—you can even arrive by bike along the paved 4-mile-long Springwater Corridor trail south from OMSI (see p. 67). Most of Sellwood’s boutiques, coffee shops, restaurants, and antiques stores are concentrated along SE Milwaukee Avenue and SE 13th Avenue. Otherwise, it’s a homey neighborhood of bungalows and Victorian cottages, perfect for strolling, especially through the parks along the riverbank. START: Bus 70.
❶ ★ Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge. Two trails meander through this 141-acre flood-plain wetland on the east bank of the Willamette: a hiking trail along the river bluff, and the paved Springwater Corridor linking Sellwood and Portland’s Eastbank Esplanade. The woodlands, pond, and meadows are home to scores of birds, including quail, hawks, ducks, woodpeckers, and kestrels. You’ll find plenty of great blue herons (Portland’s official city bird), since this former construction landfill is close to the Ross Island rookery. If you forgot your field guide, just look up—the huge hand-painted mural on the outside of the Wilhelm Portland Memorial Mausoleum portrays many of the birds that call Oaks Bottom home, including a great blue heron and an osprey. This 43,000-square-foot mural is likely the largest of its kind in the country. 45 min. Parking lots and trail heads at SE Milwaukee Ave. & McLoughlin Blvd., and at SE 7th Ave. & Sellwood Blvd. ☎ 503/823-6131. Open daily 5am–midnight.
The Springwater Corridor links Sellwood to the Eastbank Esplanade.
❷ ★★ 
Oaks Amusement Park. It’s hard to decide who enjoys this historic amusement park more: the tots riding the carousel and miniature train, the teenagers screaming themselves hoarse on the spinning modern rides, or the parents herding everyone around. Oaks is the oldest continually operating amusement park in the country, in business since 1905, and it packs a lot into a little space on the bank of the Willamette, from the usual—carnival games, Ferris wheel, bumper cars—to the unique, including a 1912 carved carousel and large wooden roller-skating rink complete with pipe organ. See p 30, bullet ❾.
Go-karting at the Oaks Amusement Park.
❸ ★ Sellwood Riverfront Park. Just south of Oaks Bottom at the base of the old Sellwood Bridge (a new Sellwood Bridge has just replaced it), this riverside park offers hiking trails, picnic tables, beach access, and a small wetland reserve at its north end. The open grassy part includes an off-leash area for dogs. Walk north along the riverbank a little ways for a good view of downtown Portland, and to find a bobbing enclave of cozy houseboats. Free public concerts happen on Monday evenings in the summer. On the other side of SE Oaks Park Way (across the train tracks and Springwater Corridor), the larger Sellwood Park offers a swimming pool, sports fields and courts, and a playground. 45 min. Entrance at SE Spokane St. & Oaks Pkwy. Open daily 5am–midnight.
If you’re a garden lover, you’ll find a rare botanical treasure in the Eastmoreland neighborhood about a mile northeast of Sellwood. At its peak from mid-March through early June, the Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden (6015 SE 28th Ave.; ☎ 503/771-8386; www.rhodies.org) is home to more than 2,000 varieties of hybrid rhododendrons and azaleas. The palette of colors and array of delicious scents when the rhodies and azaleas are in flower will make your head swim. The 7-acre garden opened in 1956 on Shakespeare Island, where students at Reed College (right across the street) once staged the Bard’s plays. With its lovely spring-fed lake (a favorite spot for birders), Crystal Springs served as the first test garden of the Portland chapter of the Oregon Rhododendron Society, established in 1950 and the first of its kind in the U.S.
A modern take on an Asian teahouse, 
Jade Bistro and Patisserie offers a complete Vietnamese menu, but also a good selection of smaller bites such as baguette sandwiches, spicy green papaya salad, and, of course, lots and lots of teas. Desserts are a specialty, especially the Vietnamese Wedding Cake and chocolate-and-sea-salt French macaroons. 7912 SE 13th Ave., ☎ 503/477-8985. www.jadeportland.com $$.
❺ ★ Antique Row. If there’s one thing Sellwood is known for, it’s antiquing. More than 50 vintage stores along SE 13th Avenue brim with furniture, housewares, jewelry, and more. It may take some digging to find your own particular treasure, of course—but that’s half the fun, right? Just a few outstanding examples include Justin & Burks (8301 SE 13th Ave. at Umatilla St.), the Sellwood Collective Antiques (8027 SE 13th Ave. at Spokane St.), and Raven Antiques and Military (7929 SE 13th Ave. at Miller St.). 1 hr. Along SE 13th Ave., roughly btw. Malden & Tacoma sts. •
