Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
LATIN NAME
Red gurnard: Aspitrigla cuculus. Grey gurnard: Eutrigla gurnardus. Tub gurnard: Chelidonichthys lucerna or Triglia
SEASONALITY
Avoid in summer when spawning
HABITAT
Usually English Channel, Celtic Sea and west of Scotland
MCS RATING
3
REC MINIMUM SIZE
25cm
MORE RECIPES
Black bream with Jerusalem artichoke purée; Steamed sea bass with kale and ginger; Red mullet with roasted red pepper mayo; Cod with fennel, capers and tomatoes; Dill salsa verde
SOURCING
I’ve long championed the gurnard, and I use it often. It’s delicious, and the curdy, firm flesh of its tapering, almost triangular body, peels obligingly off the bone for serving. Its dragon-like, armour-plated head also adds oomph to fish soups and stews. That’s why I like to braise it whole with chunky root veg; or drop meaty cutlets, along with the head, into a coconutty curry or highly seasoned tomato-based stew. But the fillets are very friendly too: fry them with onions and olives; or steam in a foil parcel with Asian flavours. This is one of those accommodating fish, like bream, that can be swapped into almost any enticing fish recipe.
In the UK, most gurnard is caught in the English Channel, the Celtic Sea and off the west coast of Scotland. In the north and east, it’s less common. There are several varieties that may crop up on the fishmonger’s slab (or on the end of your line, when boat fishing inshore), the most common here in the Southwest being the red gurnard. These are usually a generous, one-per-person size of around 500g. But occasionally a bigger fish of 2kg or more will be found – and that’s likely to be either a tub or a grey gurnard. I once baked a 3kg tub gurnard whole for Christmas Eve – it was a spectacular and delicious party piece.
Because a lot of people have heeded advice to try gurnard, fishermen are now landing more of it. In the past it was often discarded but, while it’s still not actually a target species, it is now much more likely to be retained when it’s reeled in.
In fact, our growing enthusiasm for gurnard has led the MCS to sound a note of warning, pointing out that there’s a need for more detailed data on this species as it transmogrifies from disregarded, funny-looking baitfish to desirable dish of the day. But that doesn’t mean we have to give up gurnard, just as we are getting a taste for it. It’s better that this is recognised as a good table fish, rather than discarded at sea, dead. And of course, eating gurnard also takes the pressure off other species, such as cod. The important thing, as with any seafood, is not to focus on it to the exclusion of all else. As a nation, we have a bad habit of excessive fish fidelity to the same fish species. But when a net comes up, it usually includes more than one type of fish; our eating should show similar variety.
ROAST GURNARD WITH PEPPER, LEMON, THYME AND CHILLI
This full-flavoured fish responds really well to seasoning with big, bold flavours. Here it’s marinated with a fragrant, peppery paste. Try this with bream or sardines too. Serves 2
2 tsp black peppercorns
1 large or 2 small garlic clove(s), finely grated
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
2–3 tsp thyme leaves
2 tsp dried chilli flakes, or to taste
1 tsp flaky sea salt
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
2 gurnard (each about 500g), scaled and gutted
Using a pestle and mortar, grind the peppercorns fairly finely. Add the garlic, lemon zest, thyme, chilli flakes, salt and oil, then pound everything together.
With a sharp knife, make 4–5 slashes, each 1–2cm deep, down each side of the fish. Rub the fragrant peppercorn mixture into the slashes and over the skin. Leave to marinate in the fridge for 2–4 hours, taking the fish out of the fridge half an hour before you want to cook them.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Place the fish in a roasting tin and roast for 20–25 minutes or until the flesh comes away from the bone easily when teased with the tip of a knife. Serve with sautéed potatoes and a fresh green salad.
