Steven Lamb
LATIN NAME
Juniperus communis
SEASONALITY
Berries: August–November
HABITAT
Dry limestone in the south of Britain, acid ground in the north
MORE RECIPES
Potted carp; Seared ox heart; Crab apple jelly with thyme, juniper and mint
This tiny plump berry has a powdery, frosted blue/black appearance when ripe. The flavour is dominated by piney, resinous notes and there is a hint of citrus about it too. The berries are bitter if you eat them alone; it’s what you pair them with that matters. Juniper’s unique, fresh and penetrating taste is most commonly employed in the distilling of gin, giving the spirit its characteristic flavour – and its name, which comes from the Dutch word for juniper, jenever.
There is also a strong tradition of using juniper’s clean, aromatic bite to cut through fatty or gamey meats such as pork, boar, venison or wildfowl. Crushing, then cooking the berries in liquid or combining them with oil or butter is a great way to get that flavour to travel. Juniper is also excellent with pickled or braised cabbage (it’s used in sauerkraut), root vegetables, as part of a spice rub or cure for meat or oily fish, and in pâtés or terrines.
Dried juniper berries are easy to buy. Although most pungent in their freshly picked state, they don’t lose too much flavour or aroma when dried, and remain slightly soft, so they can be easily crushed.
It’s also sometimes possible to gather fresh, wild juniper berries. They are, in fact, cones, rather than berries, more related to a pine cone than a fruit, and grow on straggling bushes or small trees. The slow-ripening berries start off green, gradually turning to bruise-coloured spheres in their second or third year. It is feasible to have berries maturing at different rates on the same branch. Unfortunately, however, they are surrounded by horribly sharp spikes, which limit the ease of picking.
Growing your own juniper is possible (some specialist nurseries sell plants), but somewhat challenging. It requires open, chalky soil and plenty of sun – the more sun juniper gets, the better the flavour. You will need both male and female plants (the latter produce the berries).
Juniper contains a compound that may possibly induce miscarriage, so should not be eaten by pregnant women. It should also be avoided if you have kidney problems.
SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS WITH JUNIPER
For this full-flavoured, quick dish, buy portobello, chestnut or button mushrooms, or use foraged field, horse, hedgehog or St George’s mushrooms. Serves 4
500g mushrooms, trimmed
30 juniper berries
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
25g butter
2 shallots, finely sliced
3 fat garlic cloves, slivered
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp double cream (optional)
Sea salt and black pepper
TO SERVE
4 slices of sourdough or other crusty bread
Extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil
3–4 spring onions, finely chopped
Cut the mushrooms into roughly 1cm slices; set aside. Crush the juniper berries to a rough powder, using a pestle and mortar.
Heat the oil with the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat until sizzling. Add the shallots and fry for a few minutes until lightly golden. Stir in the garlic and juniper berries and cook for a minute or so.
Add the sliced mushrooms to the frying pan and stir-fry over a fairly high heat for at least 5 minutes until their juices have evaporated and they are well coloured. Remove from the heat and lightly stir in the balsamic vinegar, and the cream if using, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, toast the bread, then trickle or brush with olive or rapeseed oil. Pile the mushrooms on to the hot toast and scatter over the spring onions to serve.
