Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Brassica napus subsp. rapifera, Brassica napus subsp.napobrassica
ALSO KNOWN AS
Neeps, rutabaga
SEASONALITY
October–February
MORE RECIPES
Chicken and cider stew with rosemary dumplings; Snipe with swede and bacon; Roasted haggis, swede and kale salad; Bacon and celeriac tart
It’s hard to think of a vegetable with a less glamorous image than this one. It’s a root we tend to use as an also-ran in soups, stews and other dishes that need a little bulking out: it rarely gets the starring role. Yet it’s such a useful veg, with a flavour all its own.
Swede is a member of the Brassica family, a cross between a cabbage and a turnip, and similarly contains beneficial phytochemicals. It has a sweet, slightly mustardy pungency, which for some is off-putting. However, like so many things, it can be absolutely delicious if you add butter (a lot) and the right seasoning (indecent quantities of black pepper).
It is a very good, flavoursome alternative to potatoes and can be cooked in many of the same ways: boiled, mashed, roasted or even chipped. The classic mashed neeps (as swede is known in Scotland) is hard to beat: the root is cubed, boiled, then mashed with the aforementioned butter and black pepper. And swede soup is a winner – especially if laced with roasted garlic. Less conventionally, small chunks of roasted swede make a great topping for pizza along with sweated onion, a scattering of thyme and a trickle of cream.
Swede takes only around 12 minutes’ simmering and, like all brassicas, gets a little bitter when overcooked – so keep an eye on it. It’s tasty when raw too: a winter slaw of finely shredded or grated swede, apple, beetroot and cabbage, dressed in a little yoghurt with chilli powder and a pinch of turmeric, makes an excellent side dish or sandwich filling.
Growing your own swede is easy. You might argue that it’s barely worth it as it’s so cheap to buy, but the leaves that grow atop the root are rarely included when you buy it in the shops and they make an excellent and welcome addition to the range of winter greens. A root will keep in the fridge for at least a fortnight, as long as it’s not wrapped in plastic – it needs to be allowed to breathe.
This recipe makes use of the swede tops, as well as the root – so it’s a great one if you grow your own swede. However, if you don’t, substitute kale or chard. Serves 4
1 large swede (about 850g), cut into 1cm cubes
2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
20g butter
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium-hot red chilli, deseeded and chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Swede tops, if available, or about 100g curly kale, cavolo nero or chard, tough stalks removed, leaves finely sliced
300g orecchiette (or other smallish pasta shapes)
Sea salt and black pepper
Extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil, to finish
Mature Cheddar or other well-flavoured hard cheese, grated, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Put the swede cubes into a roasting dish, trickle over the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes, until soft and golden brown.
When the swede is almost done, put a pan of water on to boil for the pasta. Meanwhile, heat the butter in a large, wide saucepan over a low heat. Add the onion, chilli and garlic and sweat for 8–10 minutes, until the onion is soft but not coloured. Then turn up the heat to medium and add the swede tops or other greens. Season and stir for 1–2 minutes until wilted.
While the veg are sweating, salt the boiling water and cook the orecchiette for about 12 minutes until al dente – use the time suggested on the pack as a guide.
When the swede is ready, add it to the pan of onions and wilted greens. Drain the pasta and stir it in, along with a slosh of extra virgin oil, and more salt and pepper if needed. Toss together.
Serve straight away, in warmed bowls, topped with a generous sprinkling of cheese.
