fried bites
Artichoke Chips with Lemon Aioli
ARTICHOKE CHIPS with LEMON AIOLI
A lot of people know that Castroville, California, calls itself the Artichoke Center of the World, but it was news to me when I arrived here many years ago as a young chef. On a drive to Monterey, a friend and I passed through Castroville, where we came upon a restaurant with a huge—about twenty feet in diameter—green sculpture of an artichoke. Naturally, we had to stop and try the kitchen’s signature fried artichokes, which were great at the time but not as good as the ones we now make at Bocadillos. These thinly sliced fried artichokes are an unusual and delicious accompaniment to drinks, and are so addictive you had better be prepared to double or triple the recipe. They will disappear as fast as you make them. Unless your knife skills are first-rate, I recommend a mandoline to slice the artichokes. And for all of you trivia buffs: a young woman named Norma Jeane Baker, better known later as Marilyn Monroe, was crowned the first Artichoke Queen of Castroville in 1948. (See photo.) 
Serves 4
1 lemon, halved
4 very large globe artichokes with 1- to 1½-inch trimmed stems still attached (about 1¼ pounds each)
Peanut or canola oil for deep-frying
Kosher salt
Squeeze the juice of the lemon into a large bowl of water and set near your work surface. Working with 1 artichoke at a time and grasping the stems, cut off one-quarter down from the top (the first 2 rows of leaves). Pull off all of the outer leaves until you reach the pale green inner ones. Spread the leaves open and, using a spoon, scrape out and discard the hairy choke. Using a mandoline or sharp knife, cut the artichokes lengthwise into paper-thin slices (some of the slices will include the stem flesh). Drop the slices into the bowl of lemon water.
Fill a deep, heavy casserole or Dutch oven one-third full with oil and heat to 365°F on a deep-frying thermometer, or until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles, browns, and then stops bubbling within 30 to 40 seconds. (Or use an electric deep-fryer.) Place a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet near the stove top.
Drain a few of the artichoke slices and pat dry on a clean kitchen towel. Drop the slices into the hot oil and fry for 3 to 3½ minutes, or until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the slices to the towel-lined pan to drain. Cook the remaining artichoke slices the same way, always letting the oil return to 350°F between batches.
Sprinkle the fried artichokes with salt just before serving. If making a double or triple recipe, keep the cooked artichokes warm in a 250°F oven until all of the slices are fried. Serve the chips hot with the aioli for dipping.
Artichokes are notoriously unfriendly to wine, but a crisp, slightly herbaceous, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc from California will work well here. M D
Topped with a healthy dash of salt and aromatic, spicy piment d’Espelette, these potatoes are my Basque version of French fries. In Spanish they’re called patatas bravas, and are usually cut into chunks or cubes rather than wedges (as in this recipe). I use one teaspoon piment d’Espelette here, along with some hot pimentón, which makes the potatoes quite spicy, but you can cut back or increase the amount of heat to suit your taste. Serves 6
1½ pounds Kennebec, russet, or other good frying potatoes, unpeeled
Peanut or canola oil for deep-frying
Kosher salt
Pimentón, picante (hot) or dulce (sweet) for finishing
Cut the potatoes lengthwise into wedges about 1 inch thick and 3 to 4 inches long. In a large bowl, cover the potatoes with cold water for at least 4 hours or up overnight.
Drain the potatoes, transfer to a large saucepan, and add cold water to cover by 1 to 2 inches. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for 8 to10 minutes, or until tender yet still firm when pierced with a knife. Be careful not to overcook them or they will fall apart when fried. Drain well and pat dry on paper towels.
Fill a deep, heavy casserole or Dutch oven one-third full with oil and heat to 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer, or until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles, browns, and then stops bubbling within 30 seconds. (Or use a deep-fryer.) Place a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet near the stove top.
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Working in batches, drop the potato wedges into the hot oil and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until browned and crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to the towel-lined pan to drain. Fry the remaining potato wedges the same way, always letting the oil return to 375°F between batches. Keep the cooked potatoes warm in the oven until all the potatoes are cooked.
Put all the cooked potatoes in a bowl and toss with the piment d’Espelette, salt, and pimentón. Serve hot.
These fries, spiced with piment d’Espelette and pimentón, need a racy and floral dry rosé. Rosés made from Garnacha grapes in Navarre are a good choice. L D F
CRISPY SHRIMP with PIMENT D’ESPELETTE
The inspiration for this dish came from one of my favorite Chinese techniques, in which shell-on shrimp are stir-fried until crispy and seasoned with dry-roasted salt and Sichuan pepper. Here, in my Basque version, I toss the shrimp with a mixture of salt, piment d’Espelette, and smoked paprika and shallow fry them, then serve more of the spice mixture alongside for dipping. Shrimp cooked in their shells have more flavor, but they are messy to shell at the table, so make sure you supply guests with plenty of napkins.
You can use head-on or headless shrimp for this recipe. In either case, make sure they are fresh. It is a little easier to tell with head-on shrimp because the heads go bad first. If they have any black spots or off odors, say “no thanks.” By the way, the terms shrimp and prawns are used interchangeably in fish markets and all that is critical from a consumer’s point of view is size called for in the recipe and, more important, freshness. Serves 4 to 6
Peanut or canola oil for shallow frying
¼ cup cornstarch
2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon pimentón, picante (hot) or dulce (sweet)
1 pound large shrimp (about 16), preferably head on
Pour oil to a depth of ½ inch into a large cast-iron skillet or sauté pan and heat to 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer, or until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles, browns, and then stops bubbling within 30 seconds. (Or use a deep-fryer.) Place a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet near the stove top.
While the oil heats, in a bowl, stir together the cornstarch and 2 teaspoons each piment d’Espelette, salt, and pimentón. Add the shrimp and toss to coat evenly. When the oil is ready, working in small batches, fry the shrimp, turning once, for about 1½ minutes on each side, or until crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to the towel-lined pan to drain. Fry the remaining shrimp the same way, always letting the oil return to 375°F between batches.
To serve, in a small serving bowl or ramekin, stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon piment d’Espelette, 2 tablespoons salt, and 1 tablespoon pimentón. Arrange the hot shrimp on a platter, with the bowl of salt-and-pepper mixture alongside for dipping.
Here, we need a wine with some body for the shrimp, but with enough nerve not to be “out-spiced” by the piment d’Espelette. Search for a Rueda that is a blend of Verdejo and Viura or Sauvignon Blanc, or both. M D
Fried Calamari with Romesco Sauce
FRIED CALAMARI with ROMESCO SAUCE
Fried calamari is a crowd-pleaser, so I am surprised that few cooks make it at home. Perhaps it is because they think cleaning squid is too time-consuming, or they worry they will overcook it and it will have the texture of rubber bands. This recipe promises to change minds. First, most of the calamari sold today are already cleaned, eliminating that tedious task. Second, if the oil is hot and the calamari don’t stay in longer than a couple of minutes max, they will emerge crispy and tender. The classic Catalonian romesco sauce is easy to make and is a wonderful alternative to the ubiquitous tomato-ey cocktail sauce usually served with fried calamari. Serves 6
Peanut or canola oil for deep-frying
1 cup rice flour
1 pound whole calamari, cleaned, or ¾ pound cleaned calamari, whole tubes and tentacles
Kosher salt
Fill a deep, heavy casserole or Dutch oven one-third full with oil and heat to 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer, or until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles, browns, and then stops bubbling within 30 seconds. (Or use an electric deep-fryer.) Place a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet near the stove top.
While the oil heats, put the rice flour in a large bowl, add the calamari, and toss to coat evenly. When the oil is hot, put a handful of calamari in a sieve and shake off the excess flour. Tip the calamari from the sieve into the hot oil and fry for 1 to 1½ minutes, or until pale gold. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, transfer the calamari to the towel-lined pan to drain. Fry the remaining calamari the same way, always letting the oil return to 375°F between batches.
Sprinkle the calamari lightly with salt and piment d’Espelette. Serve hot with the sauce for dipping.
In Catalonia, where romesco sauce originated, a Pedro Ximénez dry sherry is served with this dish because it has enough mouthfeel to stand up to the calamari and enough depth not to be trampled by the intense sauce. B D
VEGETABLE TEMPURA with ORANGE SAFFRON AIOLI
The Japanese learned how to make tempura batter from seventeenth-century missionaries from the Iberian Peninsula—the Portuguese—who fried their shrimp and vegetables on fast days when they could not eat meat. Here are three keys to tempura success: First, make sure your oil is clean, rather than recycled. You want to taste the vegetables, not the fat. Second, lumpy batter is light batter. Don’t overmix it, and make it right before you are ready to fry. Third, serve the tempura soon after frying. Serves 4
⅓ cup rice flour
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
⅓ cup cornstarch
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Peanut or canola oil for deep-frying
1 cup cold soda water
1 medium-large green or yellow zucchini, sliced on the diagonal ½ inch thick
1 medium-large Japanese eggplant, sliced on the diagonal ½ inch thick
¾ pound asparagus spears, at least ½ inch in diameter, tough ends removed
In a bowl, whisk together the rice flour, all-purpose flour, cornstarch, and a healthy sprinkle each of salt and pepper.
Fill a deep, heavy casserole or Dutch oven one-third full with oil and heat to 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer, or until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles, browns, and then stops bubbling within 60 seconds. (Or use an electric deep-fryer.) Place a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet near the stove top.
When the oil is hot, whisk the soda water into the flour mixture until just barely combined. The batter should have lumps. Dip the vegetables, a few at a time, into the batter and drop them into the hot oil. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer to the towel-lined pan to drain. Fry the remaining vegetables the same way, always letting the oil return to 350°F between batches. If making a double or triple recipe, you can keep the cooked vegetables warm in a 250°F oven until all of them are fried.
Sprinkle the vegetables with salt just before serving. Serve hot with the aioli for dipping.
Delicately fried tempura vegetables served with aioli call for a wine with good acidity and pleasant fruit tones. In California, Chenin Blanc is the Rodney Dangerfield of whites (it gets no respect), but you will quickly forget that characterization when you try one from Napa Valley’s Chappellet Winery or another local winery with this lightly fried dish. L F
CHICKEN SKEWERS with YOGURT-MINT DIPPING SAUCE
This Mediterranean-inspired chicken dish quickly became the most popular menu item at Bocadillos. The combination of spiced meatballs and yogurt sauce, reminiscent of great street food, seems to have universal appeal. Serves 6
½ cup whole-milk plain yogurt
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ teaspoon cumin seed
¼ teaspoon coriander seed
¼ teaspoon fennel seed
½ pound boneless, skinless dark chicken meat (from leg and thigh), cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons thinly sliced shallot
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
Grated zest of ½ lemon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 egg
¼ cup canola oil
To make the sauce, in a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, mint, sugar, piment d’Espelette, and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.
In a spice grinder, grind the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds to a fine powder.
In a bowl, combine the chicken, shallot, garlic, thyme, piment d’Espelette, lemon zest, salt, and ground spices and stir until loosely combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to overnight.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
In a food processor, combine the chicken mixture, egg, and bread crumbs and process until it is the consistency of coarsely ground meat. Divide the mixture into 6 equal portions. Using your hands, form each portion into a football-shaped meatball about 1 inch thick and 1½ inches long.
Heat a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat until hot. Add the oil and warm it until it ripples. Carefully place the meatballs in the pan, taking care not to crowd them, and cook, turning as needed, for about 4 minutes total, or until lightly browed all over. If the pan fits, slide it into the oven to finish the cooking (if the pan doesn’t fit in the oven, transfer the meatballs to a rimmed baking sheet). Bake for 5 to 6 minutes, or until cooked through (making a discreet cut to check).
To serve, have ready 6 small bamboo skewers. Slide each hot meatball lengthwise onto a skewer, and arrange the skewers on a small platter. Accompany with the dipping sauce.
Priorat in Catalonia is well known for its red wines. But the region’s white wines, which make up only 10 percent of the production and are made primarily from white Garnacha grapes, are good food wines when you want something soft (low acid), dry, and full bodied—creamy, even—and that’s what works here. B D
Familiar to tapas aficionados throughout Spain, this small-plate recipe is a classic. How can anyone resist the appeal of deep-fried creamy torpedoes of sweet and salty ham? Croquetas are endlessly versatile, so you might find them made with ham, cheese, chorizo, or cod. Many chefs like to fool around with them, in the interest of culinary experimentation, but my attitude is why? Serves 6
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole or 2-percent milk
5 ounces serrano ham, finely diced (about 1/8 inch)
Generous pinch of kosher salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Peanut or canola oil for deep-frying
In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add ½ cup of the flour and stir for about 2 minutes, or until combined and foaming. Meanwhile, heat the milk in another saucepan on the stove top over medium heat until small bubbles start to form around the edges (just below the boiling point) and remove from the heat. (Or heat the milk in a microwave oven.) Remove the pan with the butter-flour mixture from the heat and slowly whisk in the hot milk, and then whisk well to remove any lumps. Return the pan to medium-high heat and bring to a boil, continuing to whisk. Cook for 3 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened. Stir in the ham and salt and pour the mixture into a small baking dish or rimmed plate. Spread out evenly, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
To make the croquettes, line up 3 shallow bowls on a work surface. Put the remaining 1 cup flour in the first bowl, the beaten eggs in the second, and the panko in the third. Using a spoon, scoop up about 1½ tablespoons of the ham mixture, form it into a log with rounded ends, and place on a plate. Repeat with the rest of the ham mixture; you should have 12 portions. Coat each portion first in the flour, then the eggs, and finally the panko. Arrange the croquettes on a small rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.
Fill a deep, heavy casserole or Dutch oven one-third full with oil and heat to 365°F on a deep-frying thermometer, or until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles, browns, and then stops bubbling within 30 to 40 seconds. (Or use an electric deep-fryer.) Place a paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet near the stove top. Place a wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet, and preheat the oven to 250°F.
Add the croquettes, a few at a time, to the hot oil and fry for 3 or 4 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the towel-lined pan to drain. Then transfer the croquettes to the rack on the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven until all of the croquettes have been fried. Fry the remaining croquettes the same way, always letting the oil return to 365°F between batches.
To serve, place the croquettes on a platter lined with a paper napkin.
Like a scintillating woman at a dinner party, manzanilla sherry starts out as a quiet guest and then transforms the whole affair into one of grace and beauty (these things can happen to you when you drink great sherry). Seriously, manzanilla is the lightest and driest of all sherries, but it has a pungent and nutty quality that makes it pair particularly well with the meaty flavor of the ham in the croquettes. L D