Aventino & Testaccio
Rising above the mighty ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, the Aventino (Aventine Hill) is a graceful district of villas, lush gardens and austere churches. At the top, Via di Santa Sabina boasts one of Rome's great curiosities – a keyhole view of St Peter's dome. Below, the traditional working-class district of Testaccio is a popular nightlife hang-out and a bastion of classical Roman cuisine.
The Sights in a Day
MStart your day exploring the Terme di Caracalla, one of ancient Rome's largest bath complexes. Once you're done, push on to Testaccio for a taste of neighbourhood life. Join the locals for a nose around the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio then grab a takeaway lunch from Trapizzino.
RSee in the afternoon at the Cimitero Acattolico per gli Stranieri, the final resting place of poets Keats and Shelley, before hiking up to the Aventino. It's quite a walk but worth it for the remarkable keyhole view from the Villa del Priorato di Malta and the heart-melting panoramas from Parco Savello. While up here, be sure to look into the austere Basilica di Santa Sabina.
NSpend the evening in Testaccio. Dine on fab Roman fare at Flavio al Velavevodetto and then let your hair down at live-music venue ConteStaccio.
x Best of Rome
History
Food
Architecture
Shopping
Culture
Getting There
g Bus Route 714 serves the Terme di Caracalla.
m Metro For Testaccio take line B to Piramide. The Aventino is walkable from Testaccio, and Circo Massimo station (line B).
j Tram Number 3 runs from San Giovanni along Viale Aventino, through Testaccio and on to Trastevere.
1Sights
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
Sights
1Terme di CaracallaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
The remains of the emperor Caracalla’s vast bath-house complex are among Rome’s most awe-inspiring ruins. Inaugurated in AD 216, the original 10-hectare site, which comprised baths, gyms, libraries, shops and gardens, was used by up to 8000 people daily.
Most of the ruins are what’s left of the central bath house. This was a huge rectangular edifice bookended by two palestre (gyms) and centred on a frigidarium (cold room), where bathers would stop after spells in the warmer tepidarium and dome-capped caldaria (hot room).
(
%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52; adult/reduced €6/3; 
h9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun, 9am-2pm Mon; gViale delle Terme di Caracalla)
1Villa del Priorato di MaltaHISTORIC BUILDING
Fronting an ornate cypress-shaded piazza, the Roman headquarters of the Sovereign Order of Malta, aka the Cavalieri di Malta (Knights of Malta), boasts one of Rome's most celebrated views. It's not immediately apparent, but look through the keyhole in the Villa's green door and you’ll see the dome of St Peter’s Basilica perfectly aligned at the end of a hedge-lined avenue.
(Villa Magistrale; Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta; gLungotevere Aventino)
1Basilica di Santa SabinaBASILICA
This solemn basilica, one of Rome's most beautiful early Christian churches, was founded by Peter of Illyria in around AD 422. It was enlarged in the 9th century and again in 1216, just before it was given to the newly founded Dominican order – note the tombstone of Muñoz de Zamora, one of the order’s founding fathers, in the nave floor. A 20th-century restoration returned it to its original look.
(%06 57 94 01; Piazza Pietro d’Illiria 1; h8.15am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm; gLungotevere Aventino)
1Parco SavelloPARK
Known to Romans as the Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden), this walled park is a romantic haven. Head down the central avenue, passing towering umbrella pines and lawns of blooming orange trees, to bask in heavenly sunset views of St Peter’s dome and the city's rooftops.
(Via di Santa Sabina; h7am-6pm Oct-Feb, to 8pm Mar & Sep, to 9pm Apr-Aug; gLungotevere Aventino)
1Cimitero Acattolico per gli StranieriCEMETERY
Despite the roads that surround it, Rome’s 'non-Catholic' Cemetery is a verdant oasis of peace. An air of Grand Tour romance hangs over the site where up to 4000 people lie buried, including poets Keats and Shelley, and Italian political thinker Antonio Gramsci.
Among the gravestones and cypress trees, look out for the Angelo del Dolore (Angel of Grief), a much-replicated 1894 sculpture that US artist William Wetmore Story created for his wife's grave.
(www.cemeteryrome.it; Via Caio Cestio 5; voluntary donation €3; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun; mPiramide)
Eating
5Romeo e GiuliettaRISTORANTE, PIZZA€€
Occupying a former car showroom, this contemporary multi-space food hub is the latest offering from top Roman chef, Cristina Bowerman. The centre of operations is Romeo Chef & Baker, a designer deli, cocktail bar and restaurant offering modern Italian and international fare, but there's also Giulietta Pizzeria (https://giuliettapizzeria.it) dishing up sensational wood-fired pizzas, and, a short hop away, Frigo, an artisanal gelateria.
(%Giulietta 06 4522 9022, Romeo 06 3211 0120; https://romeo.roma.it; Piazza dell’Emporio 28; pizzas €6.50-12, meals €40; hRomeo 10am-2am, Giulietta 7pm-midnight daily, noon-3pm Sat-Sun; gVia Marmorata)
5TrapizzinoFAST FOOD€
The original of what is now a growing countrywide chain, this is the birthplace of the trapizzino, a kind of hybrid sandwich made by stuffing a cone of doughy focaccia with fillers like polpette al sugo (meatballs in tomato sauce) or pollo alla cacciatore (stewed chicken). They're messy to eat but quite delicious.
(%06 4341 9624; www.trapizzino.it; Via Branca 88; trapizzini from €3.50; hnoon-1am Tue-Sun; gVia Marmorata)
5Flavio al VelavevodettoROMAN€€
Housed in a rustic Pompeian-red villa set into the side of Monte Testaccio, a man-made hill of smashed Roman amphorae, this casual eatery is celebrated locally for its earthy, no-nonsense cucina romana (Roman cuisine). Expect antipasti of cheeses, cured meats and fried titbits, huge helpings of homemade pastas, and uncomplicated meat dishes.
(%06 574 41 94; www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it; Via di Monte Testaccio 97-99; meals €30-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.45-11pm; gVia Galvani)
5Da FeliceROMAN€€
Much loved by local foodies and well-dressed diners, this historic stalwart is famous for its unwavering dedication to Roman culinary traditions. In contrast to the light-touch modern decor, the menu is pure old school with a classic weekly timetable: pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans) on Tuesdays, bollito di manzo (boiled beef) on Thursdays, fish on Fridays. Reservations essential.
(%06 574 68 00; www.feliceatestaccio.it; Via Mastro Giorgio 29; meals €30-40; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11pm; gVia Marmorata)
5Pizzeria Da RemoPIZZA€
For an authentic Roman experience, join the noisy crowds here, one of the city's best-known and most popular pizzerias. It's a spartan-looking place, but the fried starters and thin-crust Roman pizzas are the business, and there's a cheerful, boisterous vibe. Expect to queue after 8.30pm.
(%06 574 62 70; Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44; meals €15; h7pm-1am Mon-Sat; gVia Marmorata)
5Il GelatoGELATO€
This is the Aventine outpost of Rome's ice-cream king, Claudio Torcè. His creamy creations are seasonal and preservative free, ranging from the classic to the decidedly not – anyone for green tea or gorgonzola?
(Viale Aventino 59; gelato €2-4.50; h10am-midnight summer, 11am-9pm winter; gViale Aventino)
Drinking
6Rec 23BAR
All exposed brick and mismatched furniture, this large, New York–inspired venue caters to all moods, serving aperitivo, restaurant meals, and a weekend brunch. Arrive thirsty to take on a Bud Spencer, one from the ample list of cocktails, or get to grips with the selection of Scottish whiskies and Latin American rums. Thursday's blues aperitif is a popular weekly appointment.
(%06 8746 2147; www.rec23.com; Piazza dell'Emporio 2; h6.30pm-2am daily & 12.30-3.30pm Sat & Sun; gVia Marmorata)
6Casa ManfrediCAFE
Very 'in' when we visited, Casa Manfredi is a good-looking cafe in the wealthy Aventine neighbourhood. Join well-dressed locals for a quick coffee in the gleaming glass and chandelier interior, a light alfresco lunch or chic evening aperitivo. It also does a tasty line in artisanal gelato.
(%06 9760 5892; Viale Aventino 93; h7am-9pm; gViale Aventino, jViale Aventino)
6L’Oasi della BirraBAR
Housed in the Palombi Enoteca, a longstanding bottle shop on Piazza Testaccio, this is exactly what it says it is – an Oasis of Beer. With hundreds of labels, from Teutonic heavyweights to British bitters and Belgian brews, as well as wines, cheeses and cold cuts, it's ideally set up for an evening's quaffing, either in the cramped cellar or piazza-side terrace.
(%06 574 61 22; Piazza Testaccio 41; h4pm-12.30am; gVia Marmorata)
Entertainment
3ConteStaccioLIVE MUSIC
With an under-the-stars terrace and buzzing vibe, ConteStaccio is one of the top venues on the Testaccio clubbing strip. It's something of a multipurpose outfit with a cocktail bar, pizzeria and restaurant, but is best known for its free live music. Gigs by emerging groups set the tone, spanning indie, rock, acoustic, funk and electronic genres.
(%06 5728 9712; www.contestaccio.com; Via di Monte Testaccio 65b; h8pm-4am Thu-Sun; gVia Galvani)
Top TipOpera in the Ruins
The Teatro dell'Opera (www.operaroma.it) stages a summer season of music, opera and ballet among the hulking ruins of the Terme di Caracalla.
Shopping
7VolpettiFOOD & DRINKS
This super-stocked deli, considered by many the best in town, is a treasure trove of gourmet delicacies. Helpful staff will guide you through the extensive selection of smelly cheeses, homemade pastas, olive oils, vinegars, cured meats, veggie pies, wines and grappas. It also serves excellent sliced pizza.
(www.volpetti.com; Via Marmorata 47; h8.30am-2pm & 4.30-8.15pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am-8.15pm Thu-Sat; gVia Marmorata)
Local LifeNuovo Mercato di Testaccio
Testaccio's neighbourhood market (
GOOGLE MAP
; entrances Via Galvani, Via Beniamino Franklin, Via Volta, Via Manuzio, Via Ghiberti; h7am-3.30pm Mon-Sat; gVia Marmorata) hums with morning activity as locals go about their daily shopping for produce, shoes and clothes. Several stalls also serve fantastic street food, including gourmet Cups (
GOOGLE MAP
; Box 44, Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio; dishes €5-8; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat; gVia Galvini) and traditional Mordi e Vai (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mordievai.it; Box 15, Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio; panini €3.50-5; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat; gVia Galvani).