Fact file
Area: 51,000 sq km (19,700 sq miles)
Capital: San José
Population: 5 million
Currency: Colón
Language: Spanish
Weights and measures: Metric
Electricity: 110 volts, 60-cycle current.
Dialling code: 506
Internet abbreviation: .cr
Getting there
By air
From Europe: Iberia offers scheduled, direct flights, from Madrid, while British Airways flies direct from London Gatwick. The alternative is to connect in the US.
From via/US: Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, Air Berlin, Avianca, Copa Airlines, Delta, Frontier Airlines, JetBlue, Sansa, Spirit Airlines, United, US Airways, West Jet.
From Canada: Air Canada offer direct flights from Toronto; Vancouver trips generally go through Houston or Dallas; flights from Montreal stop in the eastern US.
For airline information, click here.
Getting around
To and from the airport
Most international flights arrive in Costa Rica at Juan Santamaría Airport (SJO) about 16km (10 miles) from San José, although Daniel Oduber International Airport (LIR) in Liberia also handles international flights. Taxi Unidos (www.taxiaeropuerto.com) is the official airport taxi company and has a fleet of orange vehicles, but Uber is also a good option. There are also unlicensed taxis at the airports but fares can be significantly higher. Buses into town, operated by TUASA, leave from a stop close to the terminal exit between 4.30am and 11pm and cost less than US$1. Most buses from Guanacaste and Puntarenas beaches to the capital also stop at the airport.
By air
Domestic flights (vuelos locales) are reasonably priced and are a comfortable alternative to many hours on bad roads. Nature Air (www.natureair.com) and SANSA (www.flysansa.com) fly to Arenal, Liberia, Tamarindo, Nosara, Tambor, Quepos, Palmar Sur, Puerto Jiménez, Drake Bay, Punta Islita, Tortuguero, Bocas del Toro, Panamá, and Granada and Managua, Nicaragua, with additional destinations available for chartered flights. Surfboards are accepted if there is space available, for an extra charge. Charters services such as HeliJet (www.flyhelijet.com) also make trips to airports and landing strips around the country.
Keep in mind that local airlines allow one checked bag, up to 18kg (40lbs), per passenger, depending on the fare class purchased; fees for excess baggage vary from $7 to $60. On SANSA, any bag weighing more than 14kg (30lbs) is charged $1 for each additional 450 grams (1lb).
By bus
San José has no central terminal for long-distance buses, each bus hub handles travel to a certain region. Major ones include the ‘Coca-Cola,’ near a former bottling plant at Calle 16, Avenida 1–3, the departure point for the Central Pacific; the Caribbean bus terminal, Calle Central, Avenida 11 (just east of the Children’s Museum); and MUSOC, Calle Central, Avenida 30, to San Isidro (the hub for buses to the Southern Zone). Tica Bus (tel: 2296 9788; www.ticabus.com) and Trans Nica (tel: 2223 4242; www.transnica.com) have daily buses to neighboring Central American countries.
By sea
Cruise ships come into Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast and Puerto Caldera and Puntarenas on the Pacific. Princess, Norwegian, Carnival, Windstar, Holland America, and many other major cruise lines stop in Costa Rica, often coming from or going to the Panama Canal. Private yachts are also popular.
By road
Pothole-filled, unlit roads, careless (to put it mildly) drivers, and poor signage and road markings conspire to make driving in Costa Rica a definite challenge, but it makes sense for off-the-beaten-path trips outside San José. The majority of rental cars are manual transmission; automatics cost considerably more. Most agencies insist that the driver is over 21 years of age, holds a valid passport and driver’s license, and has a valid credit card for a deposit (not cash).
In San José
By bus
The Sabana Cementerio bus cuts across town in both directions, just north and south of the center; ask for the stop closest to you (¿Dónde está la parada para el Sabana Cementerio?). All other buses leave for the suburbs from their respective quadrants; for example, those heading west (Rohrmoser, Escazú, Santa Ana) leave from the Coca-Cola area; ones heading east (Los Yoses, San Pedro, Curridabat) leave from near the east end of the pedestrian walkway. Check out www.busmapscr.com for route maps.
By rail
Commuter rail service, the Tren Urbano, runs every half hour between San José and Heredia or Cartago, departing from San José’s Atlantic Station. For a detailed schedule see www.incofer.go.cr.
By taxi
Taxis are by far the easiest way of getting around San José; they are widely used and relatively inexpensive. You’ll rarely have to wait long, although it is sometimes difficult to catch a cab in a rainy rush hour. All taxis should have operational meters (marías); be sure the drivers use them. If not, negotiate before getting in. In San José, Uber (www.uber.com) is secure and often less expensive than traditional taxis.
A–Z
Acccommodations
The most popular places to stay in San José are in el puro centro, right downtown near the Plaza de la Cultura and in historic Barrio Amón, which has some boutique hotels with character. More relaxed hotels can be found outside the center in Escazú, Santa Ana, Alajuela, or Heredia. Note that high season in Costa Rica is from November 1 to April 30, and low season is from May 1 to October 31, excluding July and August, when greater demand means higher prices. During the low season, room prices may be discounted by as much as 40 percent. Reservations made, but not paid for, may not be held, especially during high season. Note that rates for remote lodges in areas such as Tortuguero or the Osa Peninsula may appear high but they usually include meals, transportation, and tours.
Budgeting for your trip
Many visitors find Costa Rica more expensive than they expected. It still can be an economical destination, and much of Costa Rica can be enjoyed independently, allowing you to keep costs down – although an itinerary organized by a tour operator may be worth the extra cost in efficient time savings. The currency, the Colon, is one of the most stable in the region.
Airport transfer: From SJO it is a 20-minute ride (about US$20–30 by taxi or Uber) between downtown San José and the airport.
Car rental: Rates generally start around US$70 per day, including full insurance in high season; cheaper rates are negotiable off-season. Four-wheel-drive vehicles start at around US$80 per day.
Gasoline: $3.57 per gallon
Accommodations: Cheap cabins (usually cold or shared showers and less privacy) for under $25 per night (double occupancy) abound, especially at the beach – but they fill up fast in the high season and on weekends. To upgrade the comfort level, expect to pay at least $70 to $90 a night (double occupancy) for moderate lodging (private baths, hot water, some views, parking, and extra amenities).
Food: Most local restaurants are very reasonably priced, ranging from a few dollars for a simple meal to $50 for two people at an above average restaurant. Luxury hotel restaurants are sometimes excessively priced, often costing as much as $30–50 per meal, per person.
Museums and attractions: Attractions sometimes charge one price for tourists, and a lower one for Costa Ricans. Many of the smaller museums are free; the rest range from less than $1 to $15, usually with student and child rates. National park admission fees vary, but are usually around $10.
Children
Costa Ricans adore children and they are welcome everywhere. The San José area has any number of child-focused activities, but one of the best is the interactive exhibits at the Museo de los Niños, housed in a castle-like former prison. Children usually enjoy La Paz Waterfall Gardens in Varablanca, with its chain of impressive waterfalls, snake exhibit, and butterfly gardens. For seaside fun, Tamarindo on the North Pacific is a good beginner’s beach for fledgling surfers. Punta Uva on the southern Caribbean coast and sheltered Playa Manuel Antonio on the central Pacific coast provide child-friendly snorkeling and swimming. Older children may want to stay up for the mystical, nocturnal spectacle of giant sea turtles laying eggs at Tamarindo, Tortuguero, or Ostional.
Climate
Costa Rica has two seasons; the rainy or green season, which Costa Ricans call winter (invierno), and the dry season or summer (verano). In the Central Valley, the rainy season lasts from May through November and the dry season from December through April. Even during the rainy season, most mornings are bright and sunny. During the rainy season there are fewer tourists and you can take advantage of green-season discounts in hotels. Rain can fall at any time on the Caribbean coast but October is usually the driest month. Be prepared for higher humidity on the Caribbean coast.
The average temperature in San José is 24°C (75°F). In the highlands, temperatures drop approximately 0.6°C for each 100 meters (500ft) of elevation. The temperature on the coasts varies from the mid-20s°C (70s°F) to the 30s°C (low 90s°F).
Crime and safety
Theft can be a problem in Costa Rica. Pickpocketing, chain and watch snatching, backpack grabbing, and other thefts are becoming more common, especially in downtown San José and popular beach towns. It is, for the most part, non-violent, snatch-and-run thievery. Do not be paranoid and frightened, but do be vigilant. Carry only as much cash as you will need. Leave your backpack, passport, and jewelry in the hotel, preferably in a locked office. Keep an eye on wallets and shoulder bags. If you buy valuable items, make your return trip by taxi. Avoid deserted streets at night and walking in isolated areas.
Customs regulations
Personal effects may be taken into the country and up to six rolls of film, 500g (18oz) of tobacco, 2kg (4lbs) of candy, and 5 liters (170 fl oz) of wine or liquor (if over 21). Carry prescription drugs in original containers. Anyone caught with illegal drugs can face 8 to 20 years in jail with no bail.
Disabled travelers
Much of Costa Rica’s claim to fame is based around rugged nature, and the country’s buckled and potholed roads and sidewalks (where they exist) can be difficult to navigate at the best of times. Definitions of ‘accessible’ vary widely – call ahead with specific questions to avoid disappointment. A variety of attractions, including the Poás and Irazú volcanoes, and Carara National Park, are set up to facilitate travelers in wheelchairs, and a handful of local companies organize excursions or arrange transportation.
Eating out
What to eat
The classic Costa Rican dish of gallo pinto (literally, painted rooster) is rice and black or red beans mixed with seasonings including onion, cilantro (coriander), garlic, and finely chopped bell peppers. Guanacaste, the northwestern province that once was part of Nicaragua, claims to have originated this dish. While predominantly a breakfast dish in the city, rural Costa Ricans eat gallo pinto three times daily, accompanied by home-made corn tortillas. For breakfast they order it with scrambled or fried eggs and sour cream, or natilla.
For lunch, many have a casado – a hearty combination including rice, beans, cabbage salad, fried sweet plantains, and sauced chicken, fish, or beef. Picadillos are served in every Tico home: diced potatoes, chayotes (water squash or vegetable pears) or string beans mixed with finely chopped meat, tomatoes, onions, culantro (fresh coriander), bell peppers, and whatever the cook feels may add flavor to the pot. Leftover picadillos, fried with rice, are served for breakfast, usually with hot tortillas; this combination is called amanecido.
Restaurants
Costa Rica’s culinary offerings are very cosmopolitan, along with traditional local fare (comida tipica). Monday to Saturday, most bars/restaurants open any time from 8.30am to 11am, and stay open until around midnight or 2am in cities. On Sunday, some may close earlier, others do not bother to open at all. Out in the campo, you will have to eat early or go hungry. Even in many tourist areas, restaurants close early. Friday and Saturday nights are busy, but earlier in the week you may find happy hours and other offers.
Embassies and consulates
The following are in San José:
Canada: Oficentro La Sábana, Building 5, tel: 2242 4400; http://costarica.gc.ca.
South Africa: (Consulate), 150 meters/yds west of entrance to Pacific Rail Terminal, Downtown, tel: 222 1470 or 223 8223.
UK: Edificio Centro Colón, 11th Floor, tel: 2258 2025, www.gov.uk/government/world/costa-rica.
US: Vía 104, Calle 98, Provincia de San José, tel: 2519 2000; https://cr.usembassy.gov/.
Emergencies
Dial 911 anywhere in Costa Rica for emergency assistance.
Car Accidents: tel: 800-8726 7486 (Transit Police in San José) and 800-800 8001 (National Insurance Institute in San José).
Reporting a crime: tel: 2295 3272 or 911 (OIJ in San José, 24 hours).
Etiquette
Preceding any request with Me puede hacer el favor de… (Could you do me the favor of…) will go a long way to ensuring the best service. While you’ll see Costa Ricans snapping their fingers at wait staff and calling out muchacha or muchacho (girl or boy), foreigners should stick to the more respectful Disculpe, señor/a (Excuse me sir/ma’am). People shake hands when first introduced. Women usually greet each other with a kiss on the cheek and say goodbye in the same fashion; this also applies when a friendly relationship exists, and men and women often greet each other in the same way. Elderly Costa Ricans are commonly addressed as Don (men) or Doña (women) followed by their first name.
Festivals
January
Fiestas Palmares, in Palmares near Alajuela, a two week cowboy party with horse parades, rodeos, musical performances, carnival rides, and beer.
February
Fiestas de los Diablitos, Festival of the Little Devils, Rey Curre, with masks, costumes, and dancing reenactments of the victory over the Spanish.
Liberia Fiestas, where folkloric traditions are celebrated with concerts and parties around Liberia.
March
National Orchid Show, San José, with more than 300 species of orchids on display.
April
Día de Juan Santamaría, celebrated around the country to honor national hero, Juan Santamaria, who helped Costa Rica defeat William Walker.
July
Virgin of the Sea Fiestas, Puntarenas, with food, music, and religious activities to honor the town’s patron saint.
Annexation of Guanacaste Day, Liberia, celebrating the day the province chose Costa Rica over Nicaragua in 1824.
August
Día de la Virgen de los Ángeles, Cartago, Costa Rica’s largest religious holiday, where pilgrims march on foot or on their knees to the Basilica de Los Ángeles to pay honor to La Negrita, the black Virgin
October
Carnaval, in Puerto Límon and Puerto Viejo, with costumes, parades through town, live music, and feasts.
Día de la Raza, commemorating Columbus’ discovery of the New World.
November
Día de los Inocentes, countrywide, paying respect to the dead.
December
El Tope Nacional, San José, the national horse parade.
San Jose Carnival, with parades and live music.
Fiestas Zapote, San José, an annual bullfighting festival and rodeo.
Gay and lesbian travelers
Relatively free of active oppression and intolerance, Costa Rica has become a favorite spot for gay and lesbian travelers from around the region. It now even has its own Gay Pride Parade (in June). San José and Manuel Antonio have clusters of gay-only and gay-friendly hotels, restaurants, and bars. The general public tends to be uncomfortable with same-sex displays of affection, however.
Health and medical care
Costa Rica has an excellent health-care system, much less expensive than in the US. Many doctors are trained in the US or Europe and speak English, especially those at private clinics. In some remote communities, you can get help through the public clinic system, called EBAIS. For medical emergencies in the San José area, you can contact:
Hospital de los Niños, tel: 2523 3600 (for children).
Hospital San Juan de Díos, tel: 2547 8000
Clínica Católica, Guadalupe, tel: 2246 3000
Hospital San José CIMA, Escazú, tel: 2208 1000, www.hospitalsanjose.net
Media
Daily Spanish-language newspapers include: La Nación, La Prensa Libre, La República, and Al Día. The Tico Times (www.ticotimes.net), published weekly on Friday, is widely available at most newsstands in central San José, Cartago, Heredia, and Alajuela. It gives the week’s news in Costa Rica and up-to-date listings of what’s happening, and where.
Money
Private banks are the best places to exchange money if you want to avoid long line-ups. Your hotel may also change money for you. Some banks now handle euros as well as dollars. Money can be exchanged at the airport (BAC San José) from 5am to 10pm – if you have colones, it’s best to change them to euros or dollars before you get on the plane. ATMs are fairly widespread and major credit cards are widely accepted. US dollars are an unofficial second currency.
Opening hours
Business opening hours are generally 8am–5pm, often with a lunch break from noon–1pm. Retail stores are usually open Mon–Sat from 9am until 6 or 7pm. State banks usually open Mon–Fri from 8.30am–3.30pm and some are also open on Saturday morning.
Postal services
The central post office is at Ca. 2, Avenida 1–3, tel: 2223 9766. Mail can be received there in the general delivery section (Lista de Correos). Outgoing items should be mailed at either a hotel desk or a post office. It is usually difficult, time-consuming, and expensive to receive packages in the mail. The most popular international courier services are FedEx and DHL. Consult the Yellow Pages for numbers.
Public holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
March/April Good Thursday
March/April Good Friday
April 11 Juan Santamaría Day
May 1 Labor Day
July 25 Annexation Day
August 2 Virgin of Los Angeles Day
August 15 Mother’s Day
September 15 Independence Day
October 12 Meeting of the Cultures Day
December 25 Christmas Day
Shopping
Costa Rica’s selection of souvenirs has been increasing slowly but steadily over the past few years. The traditional classics – miniature ox-carts, wood products, indigenous masks, and coffee – are now sold alongside locally produced CDs that rival any world-music offering. Bartering is low-key, but you can usually get a discount off the price by paying cash. Costa Rican coffee is excellent and relatively inexpensive, with top-quality Coopedota coffee from the Tarrazú region available in some supermarkets. Wooden items, including bowls, plates, cutting boards, and boxes, are widely available in most gift shops. The mountain town of Sarchí is known for its intricately painted woodwork. Papaya Music releases are available at Universal, Lehman’s, and many other stores, featuring local legends and traditional tunes.
Telecommunications
Telephones
The international code for Costa Rica is 506. To make a call from a public phone, you will need a phone card (tarjeta telefónica), available at most stores and pharmacies. Most operators offer cellphone service using GSM technology (1800 MHz and 850 MHz).
Internet
Inexpensive internet cafés are slowly disappearing as there is now public internet access and Wi-Fi spots in just about any town of any size. Most hotels offer a computer with internet service, Wi-Fi, or both. Eateries such as Bagelmen’s outlets in San José and Denny’s at the Hotel Irazú are popular wireless hotspots.
Time zone
Costa Rica is on North America’s Central Standard Time which means it is six hours behind GMT. It does not observe Daylight Savings, so this time difference increases one hour during the northern summer months. Since Costa Rica is close to the equator, the number of daylight hours does not vary much from season to season; the sun sets year-round more or less around 6pm.
Tourist information
The following offices are particularly good:
ICT Avenida Central, pedestrian walkway office, tel: 2222 1090, Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, closed noon to 1pm. Good information and maps.
ICT Central Office, East Side of Juan Pablo II Bridge, over the highway General Cañas, tel: 2299 5800, 866 267 8274 (from the US), 8am–4pm. Staffed by bilingual operators.
National Parks Information, tel: 2283 8004 or 192, www.costarica-nationalparks.com. Official government site for extensive information on all national parks.
Visas and passports
Citizens of the US, Canada, UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa need only a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry to Costa Rica. Travelers may remain for 90 days. If you leave the country for 72 hours, when you return you will be allowed another 90 days.
What to read
Green Phoenix: Restoring the Tropical Forests of Guanacaste, William Allen, a fresh look at saving the world’s tropical forests.
Costa Rica: A Traveler’s Literary Companion, edited by Barbara Ras, includes short stories set around Costa Rica.
The Birds of Costa Rica, Richard Garrigues and Robert Dean, a field guide to the country’s bird life.
Happier Than a Billionaire, Nadine Hays Pisani, how an American woman quit her job and relocated to the beach in Central America.