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The Milky Way

Neither a chocolate bar nor a galaxy of stars, Piedmont's Milky Way (Via Lattea) consists of two parallel valleys just west of Turin that offer top-notch skiing facilities. The more northern of the two, Valle di Susa, meanders past a moody abbey, the old Celtic town of Susa and pretty mountain villages. Its southern counterpart, the Valle di Chisone, is pure and simple ski-resort territory. The valleys hosted many events at the 2006 Winter Olympics, and the facilities and infrastructure remain state of the art.

1Sights

Sacra di San MicheleABBEY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sacradisanmichele.com; Via alla Sacra 14, Avigliana; adult/reduced €8/6; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm summer, to 5pm winter Tue-Sun)

This Gothic-Romanesque abbey, brooding above the road 14km from Turin, has kept sentry atop Monte Pirchiriano (962m) since the 10th century. It housed a powerful, bustling community of Benedictine monks for over 600 years and was a staging point for high social level pilgrims. Look out for the whimsical ‘Zodiac Door’, a 12th-century doorway sculpted with putti (cherubs) pulling each other’s hair.

Parco Naturale dei Laghi di AviglianaSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parks.it/parco.laghi.avigliana)

This nature reserve, a lovely natural amphitheatre, is located on Avigliana’s western fringe and includes protected lakes and marshlands.

WORTH A TRIP

ROMAN SUSA

Susa has a palpable sense of confidence that dates back millennia. It was an important Gaulish city that agreed to be Romanised in the 1st-century BC, then continued as a cosmopolitan trading post during the medieval and Renaissance periods. Its Roman ruins make for an interesting stop on the way to the western ski resorts and it can make a very pleasant base for exploration, hiking or a cheaper alternative to the resorts in winter.

The pristine and impressive triumphal Arch of Augustus ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Impero Romano), dating to 9 BC, sits just outside the centre of town. It marks the transition of power between the Celtic-Ligurian Marcus Julius Cottius and Roman Emperor Augustus, who in fact inaugurated it on his way home from Gaul. Its beautifully peaceful position makes it all the more enthralling, plus you'll often get it all to yourself.

2Activities

Via LatteaSKIING

(www.vialattea.it)

The Via Lattea ski domain embraces 400km of pistes and five interlinked ski resorts: Sestriere (2035m), Sauze d'Oulx (1509m), Sansicario (1700m), Cesana Torinese (1350m) and Claviere (1760m) in Italy; and Montgenèvre (1850m) in neighbouring France. A single daily ski pass costing €37 covers the entire Milky Way, or €48 including the French slopes.

4Sleeping

Casa CesanaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0122 8 94 62; www.hotelcasacesana.com; Viale Bouvier, Cesana Torinese; s/d €55/110, weekly only in ultra-high season; pa)

Right across from Cesana Torinese's ski lift, this timber chalet was built for the 2006 Olympics. Its rooms are light-filled and spotless, there's a bustling restaurant open to non-guests (set menus from €20) and its bar is one of the area's liveliest.

Chalet Chez NousCHALET, B&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0122 85 97 82; www.chaletcheznous.it; Frazione Jouvenceaux 41; s/d €60/120; hDec-Jul; pW)

Located in Jouvenceaux, the old part of Sauze, barely five minutes from the chair lift, Chalet Chez Nous is not only superbly located but warm and friendly. Rooms are simple, with exposed oak beams and traditional furnishings, and staff are on hand to help with shuttles and ski hire.

8Information

Cesana Torinese Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0122 8 92 02; Piazza Vittorio Amedeo 3, Cesana Torinese; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm)

Sauze d'Oulx Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0122 85 80 09; www.consorziofortur.it; Viale Genevris 7, Sauze d'Oulx; h9am-noon & 3-6pm)

Sestriere

%0122 / Pop 900

Built in the 1930s by the Agnelli clan of Fiat fame, Sestriere ranks among Europe's most glamorous ski resorts due to its enviable location in the snowy eastern realms of the vast Milky Way ski area (you'll either love or hate the architecture).

5Eating & Drinking

PinkyPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0122 43 21 47; Piazza Fraiteve 5n; pizzas €4-6; hnoon-2am)

The perennially popular pizzeria Pinky is a skiers' favourite, not to mention a post-bar pitstop. During the season, it also has live music.

L'OfficinaPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Fraiteve; h5pm-1am Thu-Tue)

A nicely urban-feeling pub up in the shopping mall that stays open later than some and has good wine and cocktails, as well as a super-cheap tapas menu if you're carb loading.

8Information

Sestriere Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0122 75 54 44; www.turismotorino.org; Via Pinerolo 19; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm)

Cuneo

%0171 / Pop 56,000 / Elev 543m

There is a raft of reasons why you should drop by stately Cuneo, not least being the food, the bike friendliness, the hiking possibilities nearby, and, last but certainly not least, the city's signature rum-filled chocolates.

Sitting on a promontory of land between two rivers, Cuneo also provides excellent Alpine views framed by the high pyramid-shaped peak of Monte Viso (3841m) in the Cottian Alps.

1Sights

Piazza GalimbertiPIAZZA

( GOOGLE MAP )

Arriving in Cuneo's gargantuan main piazza, you'd think you'd just touched down in a capital city. Finished in 1884, it sits aside an older portico-embellished town founded in 1198.

Museo Civico di CuneoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Santa María 10; adult/reduced €3/2; h3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun)

Cuneo has some wonderfully dark and mysterious churches. The oldest is the deconsecrated San Francisco convent and church, which today hosts this museum tracking the history of the town and province.

4Sleeping

Hotel LigureHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0171 63 45 45; www.ligurehotel.com; Via Savigliano 11; s/d €60/75; paW)

In the heart of the old town, this two-star hotel is run by a charming, elegant family and has simple but spotless rooms and self-catering apartments for longer stays.

Hotel Palazzo LoveraHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0171 69 04 20; www.palazzolovera.com; Via Roma 37; s/d €105/130; paW)

A French king and an Italian pope have stayed here, hinting at the Loverna's stately past. Rooms are comfortable and the hotel offers rare small-town Italian extras, such as a gym, sauna and two affiliated restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Delle Antiche Contrade.

5Eating

oArioneSWEETS, CAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.arione-cuneo.com; Piazza Galimberti 14; cake €2-5; h8am-8pm Tue-Sat, 8am-1pm & 3.30-8pm Sun)

This 1920s-vintage chocolatier and cafe invented the Cuneesi al Rhum, a large, rum-laced praline wrapped in cellophane. The chocolates came to the attention of Hemingway, who made a detour from Milan en route to Nice in 1954 to try them and there's a photograph of his visit in the window. We're with Hemingway: buy a bag. Actually, buy two.

o4 CiancePIEDMONTESE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0171 48 90 27; www.4cianceristorante.it; Via Dronero 8c; meals €25, degustation €32; h7.45-10pm Mon, noon-2pm & 7.45-10pm Tue-Sat)

A warm, unpretentious place that makes everything from scratch, including the bread. Local specialities (beef cheek in Nebbiolo wine) are requisitely earthy but plated with an unexpected elegance for such a well-priced restaurant.

Bove'sSTEAK, PIEDMONTESE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0171 69 26 24; www.boves1929.it; Via Dronero 2; meals €24; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-midnight Thu-Tue)

This dark corner bar may seem like a Brooklyn transplant with its tiles and high stools, but it's the real deal, serving up high quality Piedmontese cruda (raw minced beef) and steaks since 1929. These days they've added an ever-so-slightly international burger menu: the smoked beef with crunchy pancetta (€11.50) comes highly recommended.

Delle Antiche ContradeGASTRONOMY€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0171 48 04 88; www.antichecontrade.it; Via Savigliano 11; meals €55-120; h12.15-2.15pm & 7.15-9.15pm Thu-Mon)

This former 17th-century postal station is the culinary workshop of Ligurian chef Bruno Zambon, who melds the fish of his home region with the meat and pasta of his adopted one. There's an express two-course lunch deal for €13, which even includes sparkling water.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.comune.cuneo.it; Via Roma 28; h8.30am-10pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Regular trains run from Cuneo's central train station, at Piazzale Libertà, to Turin (€7, 1¼ hours, up to eight daily) and Ventimiglia (€8.30, 2½ hours, at least six daily) from where you can continue over the border to Nice.

Limone Piemonte & the Maritime Alps

%0171 / Elevation 1525m

Shoehorned between the rice-growing plains of Piedmont and the sparkling coastline of Liguria lie the brooding Maritime Alps – a small pocket of dramatically sculpted mountains that rise like stony-faced border guards along the frontier of Italy and France. Smaller yet no less majestic than their Alpine cousins to the north, the Maritimes are speckled with mirror-like lakes, foraging ibexes and a hybrid cultural heritage that is as much southern French as northern Italian.

There's a palpable wilderness feel to be found among these glowering peaks. Get out of the populated valleys and onto the imposing central massif and you'll quickly be projected into a high-altitude Shangri-La. Whistling marmots scurry under rocky crags doused in mist above a well-marked network of mountain trails where the sight of another hiker – even in peak season – is about as rare as an empty piazza in Rome. This is Italy at its most serene and serendipitous.

2Activities

Maritime Alps CircuitsHIKING

(www.limonepiemonte.it)

The Lago di Valscura Circuit (21km) starts in the airy spa of Terme di Valdieri and follows an old military road via the Piano del Valasco to an icy lake near the French border. It loops back past the Rifugio Questa before descending via the same route.

Limone PiemonteSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.limonepiemonte.it)

Limone Piemonte, 20km south of Cuneo, has been a ski station since 1907 and maintains 15 lifts and 80km of runs, including some put aside for Nordic skiing. The town (population 1600) has numerous hotels and ski-hire shops.

4Sleeping

Borgo FantinoAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %019 838 72 11; www.borgofantino.it; Corso Nizza 54; 4-person apt €110-140; pW)

These brand new apartments in a low-slung structure of wood and stone are both stylish and comfortingly rustic. There's a communal games room, a spa and a shuttle service to town and the lifts. Apartments sleep up to four people.

Hotel MarguareisHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0171 92 75 67; www.hotelmarguareis.com; Via Genova 30; d €65-80)

A small, family run hotel in the centre of Limone, well located for an early morning start on the Marguareis Circuit. Rooms are small, neat and retro-Alpine in style.

Varallo & the Valsesia

Situated 66km northwest of Vercelli in northern Piedmont, this wild, remote region is a place for either contemplation or for adventure along the lines of black skiing, rafting, canyoning or fishing. Varallo is home to the occasionally macabre pilgrimage site of the Sacro Monte di Varallo, while beyond here, the Sesia river heads spectacularly north to the foot of the Monte Rosa massif. Alpine slopes climb sharply, offering numerous walking, cycling and white-water rafting possibilities. The valley's last village, Alagna Valsesia, is an ancient Swiss-Walser settlement turned ski resort, which is part of the Monte Rosa Ski Area.

Monte Rosa Ski AreaSKIING

(www.monterosa-ski.com)

The Monte Rosa ski area consists of three valleys. Champoluc anchors the Valle d'Ayas, Gressoney lights up the Val de Gressoney and Alagna Valsesia is the focal point in the Valsesia. These valleys have a less manic resort scene and harbour some quiet Walser villages. The skiing, however, is white-knuckle, with some of Europe's best off-piste and heli-skiing possibilities, particularly in the Valsesia.

Corpo Guide AlagnaOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0163 9 13 10; www.guidealagna.com; Piazza Grober 1, Alagna)

From Alagna, the Corpo Guide Alagna organises a smorgasbord of winter and summer activities. A highlight is its summer two-day trip up to the highest rifugio in Europe, the Capanna Regina Margherita perched atop Punta Gnifetti on the Swiss–Italian border at an astounding 4554m. Guided ascents cost €290 to €400 per person depending on group size.

4Sleeping

Capanna Regina MargheritaCHALET€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0163 9 10 39; www.rifugimonterosa.it; dm with breakfast/half board €70/100)

If you're confident in your Alpine fitness, set out for the highest rifugio in Europe from the top cable car stop at Punta Indren (3260m). Perched atop Punta Gnifetti on the Swiss–Italian border at an astounding 4554m, it's an ascent that requires glacier travel.

Those without high-altitude equipment or extensive mountaineering experience will need to hire an IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations) guide.

Rifugio CamparientCHALET€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rifugiocamparient.com; Via alla Chiesa 4, Alpe di Mera; d €80; pW)

A beautifully sited family-run place that's a great base for exploring the region, both in winter or summer.

8Getting There & Away

This region is in fact closer to Milan than to Turin, although it's an easy two or so hours' drive from the Piedmontese capital. The closest train station is Vercelli, from there it's a two- to three-hour bus ride to Alagna Valsesia (€9.40, three daily).

Valle d'Aosta

%0165 / Pop 128,500

While its Dolomite cousins tend to the Tyrolean, Aosta's nuances are French. The result is a hybrid culture known as Valdostan, a long-ago mingling of the French Provençal and northern Italian that is notable in the local architecture, the dining table and in the survival of an esoteric local language, Franco-Provençal or Valdôtain.

Comprising one large glacial valley running east–west, bisected by several smaller valleys, the semi-autonomous Valle d'Aosta is overlooked by some of Europe's highest peaks, including Mont Blanc (4810m), the Matterhorn (Monte Cervino; 4478m), Monte Rosa (4633m) and Gran Paradiso (4061m). Not surprisingly, the region offers some of the best snow facilities on the continent: descend hair-raisingly into France and Switzerland over glaciers or via cable cars.

The hiking is just as extraordinary, with access to the 165km Tour du Mont Blanc, Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, and Aosta's two blue-riband, high-altitude trails: the Alte Vie 1 and 2.

Aosta

%0165 / Pop 34,600 / Elev 565m

Jagged Alpine peaks rise like marble cathedrals above the regional capital Aosta, a once-important Roman settlement that retains a charming historic centre, while also sprawling rather untidily across the valley floor. Bounced around between Burgundy (France) and Savoy (Italy) in the Middle Ages, the modern town remains bilingual, with a Valdostan culture that can be heard in its musical local dialect and simple but hearty cuisine.

Aosta

1Sights

1Arco di AugustoD1

2Cattedrale Santa Maria AssuntaB2

3Chiesa di Sant'OrsoC1

4Museo Archeologico RegionaleA2

7Roman ForumA2

10Torre dei FromageC2

4Sleeping

11Le Rêve CharmantA2

12Maison ColombotA3

5Eating

13BataclanD1

14Croix de VilleA2

15Il Vecchio RistoroA1

16Trattoria degli ArtistiA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Ad ForumB2

18In BottiglieriaA2

1Sights

Museo Archeologico RegionaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Roncas 12; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun)F

Aosta’s little city museum does an excellent job of detailing the city’s Roman history with a scale model of Aosta’s Roman layout plus various antediluvian remains and some fascinating finds from a necropolis discovered at the gates of the Roman city.

Chiesa di Sant'OrsoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sant'Orso; h9am-5.30pm)

This intriguing church is part of a still-operating monastery. The church dates back to the 10th century but was altered on several occasions, notably in the 15th century, when Giorgio di Challant of the ruling family ordered the original frescoes to be painted over and a new, lower roof installed.

All was not lost: the renovations left the upper levels of the frescoes intact above the new roofline. You can ask the warden to unlock the door, letting you clamber up a narrow flight of wooden steps into the cavity between the original and the 15th-century ceilings to view the well-preserved remnants.

Cattedrale Santa Maria AssuntaCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Giovanni XXIII; h6.30am-noon & 3-7pm)

The neoclassical facade of Aosta's cathedral belies the impressive Gothic interior. Inside, the carved 15th-century walnut-wood choir stalls are particularly beautiful. Two mosaics on the floor, dating from the 12th to the 13th centuries, are also notable, as are the treasures displayed in the lovingly attended Museo del Tesoro.

DON'T MISS

1ST CENTURY AD AOSTA

Aosta's 2000-year-old centre is awash with Roman ruins. The grand triumphal arch, Arco di Augusto ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Arco di Augusto), has been strung with a crucifix in its centre since medieval times. From the arch, head east across the Buthier river bridge to view the cobbled Roman bridge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) – in use since the 1st century AD.

Backtracking west 300m along Via Sant'Anselmo brings you to Porta Praetoria ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the main gate to the Roman city. Heading north along Via di Bailliage and down a dust track brings you to Aosta's Roman theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Porta Praetoria; h9am-7pm Sep-Jun, to 8pm Jul & Aug). Part of its 22m-high facade is still intact. Further north, the forbidding 12th-century Torre dei Balivi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a former prison, marks one corner of the Roman wall and peers down on the smaller Torre dei Fromage ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) – named after a family rather than a cheese. The city's Roman forum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) was another couple of blocks west, beneath what's now Piazza Giovanni XXIII.

2Activities

The Valle d'Aosta allows access to three of Europe's most prestigious ski areas – Courmayeur, Breuil-Cervinia and Monte Rosa – plus numerous smaller runs. A lift pass covering the entire Valle d'Aosta costs €138/293 for three/seven days; seven-day pass holders can choose an international option which gives you two ski days in Zermatt for €346. For up-to-date prices and pass variations see www.skivallee.it.

The best of the smaller resorts is Pila, easily accessible by cable car ( GOOGLE MAP ; one way/return €3/5; h9am-5.30pm mid-Jun–early Sep) from Aosta town, while the pristine Valle di Cogne, in Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, is an idyllic place to enjoy cross-country skiing in relative solitude.

Breuil-CerviniaSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cervinia.it)

Breuil-Cervinia, in the shadow of the Matterhorn, is set at a high altitude and has more reliable late-season snow. There are good intermediate runs and kids' facilities here, but the resort is rather tacky in places. On the brighter side, you can ski across into Zermatt in Switzerland.

PilaSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pila.it; half-/full-day pass €28/37; hmid-Dec–mid-Apr)

The 1800m-high resort of Pila is accessible by the Aosta–Pila cable car or a zigzagging 18km drive south of Aosta. Its 70km of runs, served by 13 lifts, form one of the valley's largest ski areas. Its highest slope, in the shadow of Gran Paradiso, reaches 2700m and sports an ace snow park with a half-pipe, jump and slide, and freestyle area for boarders and freestyle skiers.

Cave Mont Blanc de Morgex et La SalleWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cavemontblanc.com; Chemin des Iles 31; h10am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

The Valle d'Aosta is home to vineyards producing sought-after wines that are rarely available outside the region, including those from Europe's highest vineyard, named after the two villages that are strung together by its vines. Aosta's tourist office has a free, comprehensive booklet in English with information on cellars you can tour and do tastings at. The vineyard is 25km west of Aosta.

4Sleeping

Hotel VillageHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 77 49 11; www.hotelvillageaosta.it; Torrent de Maillod 1; d/cabin €80/115)

Don't let the proximity to the highway and suburban surrounds put you off, the Village has got so much else going for it. Cabins are set among tall trees and have a contemporary dark-hued style with lots of space and rustic balconies, while rooms in the main building are pure Scando cool.

Maison ColombotGUESTHOUSE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 23 57 23; www.aostacamere.com; Via Torre del Lebbroso 3; s/d €55/90)

This sweetly old-fashioned place has six rooms with rustic furniture and beamed ceilings overlooking the pretty main pedestrian street or a rustic courtyard. Breakfast here is delivered to your door on a tray – so cosy.

oLe Rêve CharmantGUESTHOUSE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 23 88 55; www.lerevecharmant.com; Via Marché Vaudan 6; d €130; paW)

Tucked away in a quiet historic alley, this 12-room hotel is full of traditional Aostan furniture and decoration but keeps it simple and rather stylish. A warm, welcoming lounge leads to surprisingly spacious rooms that have beautiful modern bathrooms and high ceilings. The young owners are charming and service is top rate.

Le Coffret Design SuitesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lecoffret.it; Lieu-dit Jayer, Saint Marcel; d €145; paW)

Around 20 minutes' drive from the city, this upmarket little hotel is a redolent combination of solid Aostan stone, heavy wooden beams, lots of glass and contemporary furniture. The lofts under the beams are particularly cosy. Some rooms have spa baths or there's a spa area for all guests to enjoy.

Hotel MilleluciHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 4 42 74; www.hotelmilleluci.com; Loc Porossan 15; d €180-270; pais)

Old wooden skis, traditionally carved wooden shoes, claw-foot baths, indoor and outdoor pools, a Jacuzzi, sauna and gym, and sumptuous skiers' breakfasts make this large, family-run converted farmhouse seem more like a luxury resort. Set on a hillside above town, its balconied rooms look out to the eponymous 'thousand lights' twinkling from Aosta below.

5Eating & Drinking

BataclanPIZZA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %393 3026153; www.facebook.com/ristorantebataclan; Piazza Arco D'Augusto 15; pizza €7-12, meals €18-27; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-midnight)

You might be lured here by the pizza (which is good), but you'll stay on for the atmosphere, with convivial staff, happy locals and a wonderful position by the Roman ruins.

Croix de VilleMODERN ITALIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 23 07 38; Via Croix de Ville 25; dishes €15-18; h11am-3pm & 6-10.30pm Sun-Thu, 11am-10.30pm Fri & Sat)

Croix de Ville's smart, bustling dining room serves up contemporary Italian favourites such as tartares, beef tagliata (rare slices) with rocket and Parmesan, and Mediterranean-tinged pastas, dispensing with the strict first- and second-course format. Similarly, the wine list takes it pan-Italian and international, though there's no reason to stray from the beautiful Aostan drops on offer.

Trattoria degli ArtistiTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Maillet 5-7; meals €22-30; h12.30-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

Fabulous Valdostan cuisine is dished up at this dark and cosy trattoria, tucked down an alleyway off Via E Aubert. Antipasti such as puff pastry filled with Valdostan fondue, cured ham and regional salami are followed by dishes such as roe venison with polenta, and beef braised in Morgex et de La Salle white wine.

Il Vecchio RistoroGASTRONOMY€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 3 32 38; www.ristorantevecchioristoro.it; Via Tourneuve 4; meals €50, menu degustazione €80; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat)

Originating from the Valtellina, Alfio Fascendini knows a thing or two about good food and wine. Sample the chestnut bread, the saffron-creamed pearl barley with crispy artichokes and the smoked fillet of bream.

In BottiglieriaWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 4 08 85; www.inbottiglieria.com; Via E Aubert 15; h10.30am-10pm Tue-Sat)

Hidden down an alley, a young, well-dressed local crowd fills this stone-vaulted cellar for aperitivo and later on weekends. The wine selection is great and it's also known for its huge list of champagne and Italian sparklings.

Ad ForumWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 4 00 11; Via Mons de Sales 11; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.45pm Tue-Sun)

A stylish garden and indoor-outdoor rooms are built on part of the remains of the Roman forum and fill up with locals at aperitivo hour. They have a great list of local wines.

8Information

Aosta Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lovevda.it; Piazza Porta Praetoria 3; h9am-7pm; W)

Housed in the old Roman gateway to the city, this helpful office has good maps, lists of wine and cheese producers in the region as well as extensive listings of farmstays and B&Bs.

8Getting There & Away

Buses operated by Savda (www.savda.it) run to Milan (€17, 1½ to 3½ hours, two daily), Turin (€9, two hours, up to 10 daily) and Courmayeur (€3.50, one hour, up to eight daily), as well as to French destinations, including Chamonix. Services leave from Aosta's bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Giorgio Carrel), almost opposite the train station. To get to Breuil-Cervinia, take a Turin-bound bus to Châtillon (€1.50, 30 minutes, eight daily), then a connecting bus (€2.90, one hour, seven daily) to the resort.

Aosta's train station, on Piazza Manzetti, is served by trains from most parts of Italy. All trains to Turin (€9.45, two to 2½ hours, more than 10 daily) change at Ivrea.

Aosta is on the A5, which connects Turin with the Mont Blanc tunnel and France. Another exit road north of the city leads to the Great St Bernard tunnel and on to Switzerland.

WORTH A TRIP

FORTE DI BARD

A fort has existed here for millennia and the current 1830s Savoy edifice is an imposing one, set high up upon a rocky escarpment at the jaws of the Valle d’Aosta. Forte di Bard ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fortedibard.it; fort entrance free, single museum adult/reduced €15/12; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun) makes for a great day's diversion from skiing or hiking at around 70 minutes from Aosta by bus.

Ride up a series of super-modern panoramic lifts, where you can admire the inspiring Alpine views and visit the Vallée Culture rooms, which offer interesting nuggets of information on Aosta’s history and traditions.

The Museo delle Alpi, a clever, interactive museum, takes you on an journey across the entire Alps – children love the Flight of the Eagle, a cinematic simulation of a bird's flight over valleys, villages, lakes and snow-capped peaks. The newest museum, Il Ferdinando, Museo delle Fortificazioni e delle Frontiere details the region's military history. The fort’s prisons, which were still in use right up until the end of WWII, can also be visited (adult/reduced €4/3), and there's an excellent program of big-ticket 20th-century art and photography shows in another space.

Overnight at Hotel Ad Gallias ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0125 80 98 78; www.hoteladgallias.com; Via Vittorio Emanuele 5/7, Bard; d €140; paW) which occupies a couple of village houses at the entrance to the village. This stylish hotel has views of the fort and a fabulous wellness area built around a Roman wall with hot tub, sauna, steam room and treatments.

Courmayeur

%0165 / Pop 2850 / Elev 1224m

Flush up against France and linked by a dramatic cable-car ride to its cross-border cousin in Chamonix, Courmayeur is an activity-oriented Aosta village that has grafted upmarket ski facilities onto an ancient Roman bulwark. Its pièce de résistance is lofty Mont Blanc, Western Europe's highest mountain – 4810m of solid rock and ice that rises like an impregnable wall above the narrow valleys of northwestern Italy, igniting awe in all who pass.

In winter Courmayeur is a fashion parade of skiers bound for the high slopes above town that glisten with plenty of late-season snow. In summer it wears a distinctly different hat: the Società delle Guide Alpine di Courmayeur is bivouacked here and the town is an important staging post on three iconic long-distance hiking trails: the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB), Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2.

1Sights

Giardino Botanico Alpino SaussureaGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.saussurea.it; admission €3, free with cable-car ticket in high summer; h9am-5pm Jul-Sep)

Walk through flower-filled Alpine garden in summer (it's blanketed by snow in winter) and enjoy numerous other trails, including the Sentiero Francesco e Giuditta Gatti, where you have a good chance of spotting ibexes, marmots and deer.

Pavillon du Mt Fréty Nature OasisNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

A protected zone of 1200 hectares tucked between glaciers, this nature oasis is accessible from the Pavillon du Mt Fréty. Enjoy numerous trails, including the Sentiero Francesco e Giuditta Gatti.

Museo Alpino Duca degli AbruzziMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 20 64; Piazza Henry 2; adult/reduced €3/1.50; h9am-12.30pm & 4-7pm Thu-Tue)

Courmayeur guiding association's dramatic history unfolds in this small but inspiring museum that tracks the heroic deeds of erstwhile alpinists.

2Activities

Courmayeur offers some extraordinary skiing in the spectacular shadow of Mont Blanc. The two main ski areas – the Plan Chécrouit and Pré de Pascal – are interlinked by various runs (100km worth) and a network of chairlifts. Three lifts leave from the valley floor: one from Courmayeur itself, one from the village of Dolonne and one from nearby Val Veny. They are run by Funivie Courmayeur Mont Blanc ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.courmayeur-montblanc.com; Strada Regionale 47). Daily ski passes (€48) give you access to Courmayeur and Mont Blanc, 3-day passes and above include all of Aosta's resorts (3-/7-day pass €128/265). Queues are rarely an issue.

oFunivie Monte BiancoCABLE CAR

(Skyway; GOOGLE MAP ; www.montebianco.com; Strada Statale 26; return €48, Pavillon du Mt Fréty return €27; h8.30am-4pm)

The Mont Blanc cable car might not be the world's highest, but it's surely the most spectacular. This astounding piece of engineering reaches three-quarters of the way up Western Europe's highest mountain before heading across multiple glaciers into France. New stations, with glass surfaces and futuristic cantilevers, opened in summer 2015, along with the introduction of state-of-the-art 360-degree rotating cabins. It departs every 20 minutes from the village of La Palud, 15 minutes from Courmayeur's main square by a free bus.

First stop is the 2173m-high midstation Pavillon du Mt Fréty, while at the top of the ridge is Punta Helbronner (3462m). All three stations have restaurants and other facilities; there's a sparkling wine cellar and, in summer, the Giardino Botanico Alpino Saussurea and a crystal display at Helbronner. Take ample warm clothes and sunglasses for the blinding snow, and head up early in the morning to avoid the heavy weather that often descends in the early afternoon.

From Punta Helbronner another cable car (from late May to late September, depending on weather conditions, €33.50) takes you on a breathtaking 5km transglacial ride across the Italian border into France to the Aiguille du Midi (3842m), from where the world's highest cable car transports you down to Chamonix (€77). The return trip from Chamonix to Courmayeur by bus is €15. Not a cheap day out, but a spectacular one.

Plan Chécrouit Swimming PoolSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; half-day/day lift & pool €18/25; h10.30am-5pm mid-Jul–Aug)

Yes, there's a highest heated swimming pool in Europe, and, at 1700m, this is it. Take the Dolonne cable car for a dip with a view and a laze among lush green surrounds, or hike up from Courmayeur in around an hour.

Terme di Pré-Saint-DidierSPA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 86 72 72; www.termedipre.it; Allée des Thermes; admission €35-50; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)

Bubbling up a natural 37°C from the mountains' depths, the thermal water at Pré-Saint-Didier, a 10-minute drive south of Courmayeur, has been a source of therapeutic treatments since the bath-loving Romans marched into the valley. A spa opened here in 1838, with the newest addition dating to the 1920s. Admission includes use of a bathrobe, towel and slippers, plus water and herbal teas.

In addition to saunas, whirlpools and toning waterfalls, there's an indoor-outdoor thermal pool. It's lit by candles and torches at night, and is spectacular amid the snow and stars in wintertime. The older of the two spa buildings, accessed by a tunnel, has stunning high ceilings and fabulous views from its relaxation areas. Historical bonus: there's a little Roman bridge arcing over a trout-filled river, 50-odd metres beyond the car park in the opposite direction to the village.

Tour du Mont BlancWALKING

For many walkers (some 30,000 each summer), Courmayeur's trophy hike is the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). This 169km trek cuts across Italy, France and Switzerland, stopping at nine villages en route. Snow makes it impassable for much of the year. The average duration is anything from one week to 12 days; smaller sections are also possible.

You can undertake the hike solo, but if you're unfamiliar with the area, hooking up with a local guide is a good idea as the route traverses glacial landscapes. Easy day hikes will take you along the TMB as far as the Rifugio Maison Vieille (6.6km, one hour and 50 minutes) and Rifugio Bertone (4.5km, two hours). Follow the yellow signposts from the Piazzale Monte Bianco in the centre of Courmayeur.

Vallée BlancheSKIING

This is an exhilarating off-piste descent from Punta Helbronner across the Mer de Glace glacier into Chamonix, France. The route itself is not difficult – anyone of intermediate ability can do it – but an experienced guide is essential to steer you safely round the hidden crevasses.

All up, the 24km Vallée Blanche takes around four to five hours, allowing time to stop and take in the view.

Toula GlacierSKIING

Only highly experienced, hard-core skiers need apply for this terrifying descent, which also takes off from Punta Helbronner and drops for six sheer kilometres to La Palud. A guide is essential; it's usually easy to join a group.

Società delle Guide Alpine di CourmayeurOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 20 64; www.guidecourmayeur.com; Strada del Villair)

Founded in 1859, this is Italy's oldest guiding association. In winter, guides lead adventure seekers off-piste, up frozen waterfalls and on heli-skiing expeditions. In summer, rock climbing, canyoning, canoeing, kayaking and hiking are among its many outdoor activities. Excursions start at €110 for single day climbs and ascents and range up to €965 for a four-day Alpinist course.

Scuola di Sci Monte BiancoSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.scuolascimontebianco.com; Strada Regionale 51)

Founded in 1922, this veritable ski school offers instructors for downhill and snowboarding (one hour/day €48/360), along with specialist courses in freeride, telemark and cross-country.

4Sleeping

Hotel SvizzeroHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 81 70; www.hotelsvizzero.com; Strada Statale 26/11; d €145; paW)

On the road just outside of the town's pedestrian centre, the family-run Svizzero has 27 rustic-contemporary rooms, as well as a chalet that can be rented on a weekly basis. The lovely old recycled wood and stone used throughout makes for loads of atmosphere, and the hotel provides the Alpine essentials of a steam room and lift shuttle.

Hotel TrioletHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 68 22; www.hoteltriolet.com; Strada Regionale 63; s/d €100/170; paWs)

Triolet is a tad smaller than your average ski digs, with only 20 rooms, allowing service to remain personal as well as affable. Aside from the usual tick-list, there's a pleasant spa (Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna), ski lockers and a vista-laden breakfast room.

Hotel Bouton d'OrHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 67 29; www.hotelboutondor.com; Strada Statale 26/10; s/d €95/180; paiW)

Charmingly folksy Bouton d'Or is in the centre of Courmayeur and not only has incredible views of the imposing hulk of Mont Blanc, but also a sauna, a lounge full of interesting Alpine paraphernalia and, in summer, a peaceful garden.

oGrand Hotel Courmayeur Mont BlancSPA HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 45 42; www.grandhotelcourmayeurmontblanc.it; Strada Grand Ru 1; d €270-360; paWs)

This new 72-bed luxury place hits all the right notes, with exquisitely comforting yet Alpine-sleek rooms with soft wool blankets, light wood and dark furniture. There's everything you need here, from a spa and pool, to restaurants and après-ski, and of course Alpine views. But you're also close to the lifts and the town's happy bustle.

5Eating

oDandelionALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 185 11 83; www.dandelionlapalud.com; Via San Bernardo 3, La Palud; meals €35-45; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm)

Up the hill in the hamlet of La Palud, Dandelion does 'cuisine de montagne' – a proudly Aostan menu that's both rustic and sophisticated. Come for salt cod lasagne, baby goat and artichokes in a garlic cream or Aostan beef fillet with green pepper and foie gras. There's a cosy dining room with fireplace or book a terrace table in summer.

La PadellaAOSTAN, PIZZA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 19 77; www.lapadella.eu; Vicolo Dolonne 7; meals €25; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Fri-Wed)

Friendly, cosy and popular, there's a huge menu of polenta and fontina cheese dishes – add your topping of mushroom, sausage or various other meats. They also run a takeaway prepared-meal place, Mmmartine, a good option for lazy self-caterers or picnicking.

La ChaumièreITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %392 9585987; www.lachaumiere.it; Località Planchecrouit 15; meals €25-40; h9am-5pm)

Set on the slopes above Courmayeur, within walking distance of the cable car, is the fabulous sun-kissed terrace of La Chaumière. Views straight down the Aosta valley are accompanied by superlative polenta and 38 carefully sourced wines.

8Information

Centro TraumatologicoMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 46 84; Strada dei Volpi 3)

Medical clinic. The nearest hospital is in Aosta.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 84 20 60; www.lovecourmayeur.com; Piazzale Monte Bianco 13; h9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm)

8Getting There & Away

Three trains a day from Aosta terminate at Pré-Saint-Didier, with bus connections (20 to 30 minutes, eight to 10 daily) to Courmayeur bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazzale Monte Bianco), outside the tourist office. There are up to eight direct Aosta–Courmayeur buses daily (€3.50, one hour), and long-haul buses serve Milan (€19.50, 4½ hours, three to five daily) and Turin (€10, 3½ to 4½ hours, two to four daily).

Immediately north of Courmayeur, the 11.6km Mont Blanc tunnel leads to Chamonix in France (one way/return €43.50/54.30). At the Italian entrance, a plaque commemorates Pierlucio Tinazzi, a security employee who died while saving at least a dozen lives during the 1999 disaster when a freight truck caught fire in the tunnel.

Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso

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Italy's oldest national park, the Gran Paradiso, was created in 1922 after Vittorio Emanuele II gave his hunting reserve to the state, ostensibly to protect the endangered ibex. The park preceded the rise of the modern ski resort and has so far resisted the lucrative mass tourist trade. Its tangible wilderness feel is rare in Italy.

Gran Paradiso incorporates the valleys around the eponymous 4061m peak (Italy's 7th highest), three of which are in the Valle d'Aosta: the Valsavarenche, Val di Rhêmes and the beautiful Valle di Cogne. On the Piedmont side of the mountain, the park includes the valleys of Soana and Orco.

The main stepping stone into the park is tranquil Cogne (population 1500, elevation 1534m), a refreshing antidote to overdeveloped Breuil-Cervinia on the opposite side of the Valle d'Aosta. Aside from its plethora of outdoor opportunities, Cogne is known for its lace-making, and you can buy local products at several craft and antique shops.

1Sights & Activities

Giardino Alpino ParadisiaGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 53 01; www.pngp.it; Frazione Valnontey 44, Cogne; adult/reduced €3/1.50; h10am-5.30pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 6.30pm Jul & Aug)

The park's amazing biodiversity, including butterflies and Alpine flora, can be seen in summer at this fascinating Alpine botanical garden in the tiny hamlet of Valnontey (1700m), 3km south of Cogne. Guided nature walks are available from July to September.

Le Traîneau Equestrian Tourism CentreHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %333 3147248; Frazione Valnontey, Cogne)

This group in Valnontey organises horse riding and 45-minute horse-and-carriage rides through the mountain meadows.

Società Guide Alpine di CogneSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 40 50; www.guidealpinecogne.it; Piazza Chanoux 1)

The Società Guide Alpine di Cogne provides guides and offers climbing excursions and pro skiing lessons.

Associazione Guide della NaturaWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cogneturismo.it; Rue Bourgeois 33, Cogne; h9am-noon Mon, Wed & Sat)

Guided nature walks from July to September are organised by the Associazione Guide della Natura.

4Sleeping

Rifugio SellaCHALET€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 43 10; www.rifugiosella.com; Località Lauson, Cogne; dm €26; hApr, Jun-Sep)

The Rifugio Sella is a former hunting lodge of King Vittorio Emanuele II and offers standard mountain hut accommodation. From the town bridge follow the Alta Via 2 uphill for 8km, around a two- to three-hour walk, or park halfway at Valnontey.

Camping Lo StambeccoCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 41 52; www.campeggiolostambecco.it; Frazione Valnontey 6; campsite €24; hMay-Sep; p)

Pitch up under the pine trees in the heart of the park at this well-run and friendly site. Its sister hotel, La Barme, rents bikes to explore the mountains. No tent? Ask about if one of their caravans are available (€40 per night).

Hotel Sant'OrsoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 48 21; www.hotelsantorso.com; Via Bourgeois 2; d €140-180; hspring & autumn closures vary; ps)

Cogne personified (ie tranquil, courteous and understated), the Sant'Orso is nonetheless equipped with plenty of hidden extras, including a wellness area and huge gardens. Further kudos is gained by the fact that you can start your cross-country skiing pretty much from the front door. The owners also run the Hotel du Gran Paradis nearby.

oHotel BellevueHERITAGE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 48 25; www.hotelbellevue.it; Rue Grand Paradis 22; s €220, d €190-290, 2-person chalet €270-330; hmid-Dec–mid-Oct; ps)

Overlooking meadows, this green-shuttered mountain hideaway evokes its 1920s origins with romantic canopied timber 'cabin beds', weighty cowbells strung from old beams, claw-foot baths and the occasional open fire (it's definitely not for minimalists). Afternoon tea is included in the price, as is use of the health spa, and you can also rent mountain bikes and snowshoes.

Its four restaurants include a Michelin-starred gourmet affair, a wonderful cheese restaurant (goat raclette!) with produce from the family's own cellar, a lunchtime terrace restaurant and a dark, historic brasserie on the village's main square, a few moments' stroll away.

5Eating

Lou RessignonVALDOSTAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 40 34; www.louressignon.it; Via des Mines 23, Cogne; meals €28-40; h12-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun)

In a wood-panelled dining room with red curtains bunched at the windows, David and Elizabeth Allera keep Valdostan traditions alive, serving bowls of belly-filling seupetta á la cogneintze, a dish of rice and toasted bread slathered in fontina cheese. They also offer five well-priced chalet rooms (doubles €75 to €100).

Hotel Ristorante Petit DahuITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0165 7 41 46; www.hotelpetitdahu.com; Frazone Valnontey 27; meals €35; h7-9pm, closed May & Oct; p)

Straddling two traditional stone-and-wood buildings, this friendly, family-run spot has a wonderful restaurant (also open to nonguests; advance bookings essential) preparing rustic mountain cooking using wild Alpine herbs. It also has pretty rooms to stay in (single/double half-board €80/140).

7Shopping

Le Marché Aux PucesARTS & CRAFTS, ANTIQUES

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Grand Paradis 4; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Wed, Sat & Sun)

Cogne is known for its lace-making; you can buy the local fabrics at this charming craft and antique shop.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cogneturismo.it; Rue Bourgeois 33, Cogne; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Has detailed information on all aspects of the park and a list of emergency contact numbers.

8Getting There & Away

Up to 10 buses run daily to/from Cogne and Aosta (€2.90, 50 minutes). Cogne can also be reached by cable car from Pila.

Valtournenche

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One of Europe's most dramatic – and deadly – mountains, the Matterhorn (4478m) frames the head of Valtournenche. Byron once stood here and marvelled at 'Europe's noble rock'. Today he'd also get an eyeful of one of the Alps' most architecturally incongruous ski resorts, Breuil-Cervinia. But, ugly or not, Cervinia's ski facilities are second to none; you can hit the snow year-round up here and even swish across into Zermatt, Switzerland.

Società Guide del CervinoSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.guidedelcervino.com; Via J Antoine Carrel 20)

Contact Breuil-Cervinia’s mountain-guide association to make the most of the Matterhorn’s wild off-piste opportunities.

Mollino RoomsB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0166 94 93 51; Strada Funivie 9, Breuil-Cervinia; d €195; paW)

A modern refit yes, but lovely Alpine-style rooms of slate and patinated wood make this an atmospheric choice. It's just near the lifts and offers the occasional glimpse of the Matterhorn.

8Getting There & Away

Savda (www.savda.it) operates buses from Breuil-Cervinia to Châtillon (€2.90, one hour, seven daily), from where there are connecting buses to/from Aosta.