Südtirol Weinstrasse

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You might only be an hour or so south of the Brenner pass, but there's no mistaking the Mediterranean vibe along South Tyrol's Weinstrasse, or the Strada del Vino. It begins northwest of Bolzano in Nals, meanders past Terlano (Terlan) through Upper Adige (Überetsch) and Lower Adige (Unterland) until it reaches Salorno (Salurn). Grapevines cover gentle rolling hills, fringed with palm trees and apple orchards. It's a gentle, relaxed place where you can taste the region's world-famous white wines made from native grape varieties (Lagrein, Vernatsch and Gewürztraminer) along with well-adapted imports pinot blanc, sauvignon, merlot and cabernet, or you can swim, windsurf or sun-worship at its central lake the Kalterer See, the warmest body of water in the region. Of course, glimpses of the mighty Dolomites at every turn will remind you that you're still in the Alps.

Kalterer SeeLAKE

(Lago di Caldaro; GOOGLE MAP )

The Weinstrasse's little Lake Kaltern may look rather small compared to Northern Italy's splendid collection of lakes, but up close it's a stunningly pretty little pond, fringed with old-style boat sheds, with walkways skirting over water lilies and lots of lakeside spots for lunch or a drink.

SummaWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 80 95 00; www.summa-al.eu; Piazza Santa Geltrude 10, Magrè; hearly Apr)S

Possibly the world's most joyful, scenic and welcoming wine event, Alois Lageder's annual Summa is a must-do for both enthusiastic amateur imbibers and wine professionals alike. Held across several of the Lageder family's properties in a beautiful Weinstrasse village, it's both a treat for the eyes and for the palate. Producers are all from organic or biodynamic vineyards across Europe.

Seehotel AmbachDESIGN HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 96 00 98; www.seehotel-ambach.com; Campi al Lago 3, Kaltern; s/d half-board €140/240; hApr-Oct; paWs)

This Othmar Barth–designed hotel dates to 1973 and is remarkably intact. Gentle revamping has not altered its fabulous 20th-century charm. All rooms from single to suite offer a view of the lake and feature design classics from 1920s Eileen Gray lamps to 60s Magistretti for FLOS to contemporary Italian and Scando pieces.

oDas WandaBOUTIQUE HOTEL, B&B€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 66 90 11; www.das-wanda.com; Via Garnellen 18, Kaltern; d €230-300, adults only; paWs)

Verena Huf is a third-gen hotelier and her gorgeous 12-suite place combines that rich lineage with youthful enthusiasm and a relaxed style. Rooms are spacious, clean-lined but deliciously cosy and all have huge bathrooms, balconies (some two) overlooking the vines, palm-clad gardens and Dolomite peaks beyond. Swim laps or sauna with vine views in the dramatically low-lit spa area, or laze by the outdoor pool in summer.

oParadeisWINE BAR

(Alois Lageder; GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 80 95 80; www.aloislageder.eu/a-place-of-encounter/alois-lageder-paradeis; Piazza Geltrude 5, Magrè; meals €40-65; h10am-6pm summer Mon-Sat, to 5pm winter)S

Take a seat at the long communal table, crafted from the wood of a 250-year-old oak tree, at fourth-generation winemaker Alois Lageder's biodynamic weinschenke/vineria (winery), and start tasting. Book for lunch in the stunning dining room where simple, 'meat-light' dishes are prepared with biodynamic produce, or linger over a bottle and plate of cheese in the pretty courtyard.

Merano (Meran)

%0473 / Pop 38,200 / Elev 325m

With its leafy boulevards, birdsong, oleanders and cacti, Merano feels like you've stumbled into a valley Shangri-La. Long lauded for its sunny microclimate, this poignantly pretty town (and one-time Tyrolean capital) was a Habsburg-era spa and the hot destination of its day, favoured by the Austrian royals plus Freud, Kafka and Pound. The Jugendstil (art nouveau) villas, recuperative walks and the grand riverside Kurhaus fan out from its intact medieval core. The city's therapeutic traditions have served it well in the new millennium, with spa hotels drawing a new generation of health-conscious visitors and a booming organics movement in the surrounding valleys. German is spoken almost exclusively here, sausage and beer stalls dot the streets and an annual open-air play celebrates Napoleonic-era Tyrolean freedom fighter Andreas Hofer. Despite the palm trees, you're far closer to Vienna than Rome. Apart from its old-fashioned charms, it also makes an urban base for skiing or hiking nearby Merano 2000.

1Sights & Activites

oCastel TrauttmansdorffGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trauttmansdorff.it; Via San Valentino 51a; garden & museum adult/reduced €13/10.50; h9am-7pm Apr-Nov, to 11pm Fri Jun-Aug)

You could give an entire day to these beautiful botanical gardens a little outside Merano (and they do suggest it). Exotic cacti and palms, fruit trees and vines, beds of lilies, irises and tulips all cascade down the hillside surrounding a mid-19th-century castle where Sissi – Empress Elisabeth – spent the odd summer. Inside, Touriseum charts two centuries of travel in the region, exploring the changing nature of our yearning for the mountains. There's a restaurant and a cafe by the lily pond.

Castel Tirolo Bird Care CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gufyland.com; Via del Castello, Tirolo; adult €10; h10.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, shows 11.15am & 3.15pm)

Just below Castel Tirolo's entrance, this wildlife-rescue centre rehabilitates injured birds of prey. There is a collection of eagles, vultures, hawks, owls and buzzards to see, but the real attractions are the twice-daily shows spectacularly sited with the valley below.

Kunst MeranGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 21 26 43; www.kunstmeranoarte.org; Via Portici 16; adult/reduced €6/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, from 11am Sun)

Shows of high-profile international and regional artists are installed in this contemporary gallery, a thoughtful refiguring of a skinny medieval townhouse. Ask about the monthly talks over aperitivo.

oTerme MeranoTHERMAL BATHS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 25 20 00; www.thermemeran.it; Piazza Terme 1; bathing pass 2hr/all-day €13/19, with sauna $18/25; h9am-10pm)

Bolzano-born Matteo Thun's dream commission – a redevelopment of the town's thermal baths – reopened in 2005. Its 13 indoor pools sit within a massive glass cube; there are another 12 outdoor pools in summer. Swim through the sluice and be met by a vision of palm-studded gardens and snow-topped mountains beyond.

PromenadesWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The promenade or passeggiata (evening stroll) has long been a Merano institution. Fin-de-siècle-era walks trace the river, traverse pretty parks and skirt Monte Benedetto (514m). A winter and summer pair follow opposing sides of the river, one shady, one sunny. The Gilfpromenade follows 24 poems carved on wooden benches (also handy for a breather). The particularly evocative Tappeiner meanders above the town for 4km.

Merano 2000SKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hafling-meran2000.eu; Hafling)

Some 6km east of town, a cable car carries winter-sports enthusiasts up to Piffling in Merano 2000, with 30km of mostly beginner but very pleasant slopes. A great choice for families with ski kindergartens, designated children's ski areas and nature-based playgrounds. Local bus 1A and the SAD Meran-Hafling-Falzeben bus links Merano with the Naif valley station (€4, 15 minutes).

4Sleeping

Youth Hostel MeranoHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 20 14 75; www.meran.jugendherberge.it; Via Carducci 77; dm/s €24.50/27; piW)

A five-minute stroll from both Merano's train station and the riverside promenade, this hostel is bright and modern, with a sunny terrace and other down-time extras. It has 59 beds, either singles or en-suite dorms.

Hotel AuroraHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 21 18 00; www.hotelaurora.bz; Passeggiata lungo Passirio 38; s €120, d €130-190; paW)

A traditional family hotel, just across the river from the Terme, works some fresh ideas. 'New' rooms are Italian designed, bright and slick, but the parquetry-floored '60s-'80s originals have their own vintage charm, along with some river-facing balconies. The corridors, too, are littered with original but pristine mid-century pieces. Service is attentive and kind.

oMiramontiBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 27 93 35; www.hotel-miramonti.com; Via Santa Caterina 14, Avelengo; d €190-240; pas)S

This extraordinary small hotel, a 15-minutes drive from Merano, nestles on the side of a mountain at 1230m. Run by an incredibly vibrant young couple, the whole place exemplifies Südtirolean hospitality, relaxed but attentive to every detail. Deeply comfortable original rooms have been joined by a new batch of clean-lined design suites, including some very glamorous lofts.

oOttmanngutBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 44 96 56; www.ottmanngut.it; Via Verdi 18; s €125, d €250-300; W)S

This boutique hotel encapsulates Merano's beguiling mix of stately sophistication, natural beauty and gently bohemian backstory. The remodelled townhouse has nine rooms scattered over three floors, and is set among terraced vineyards a scant five-minute walk from the arcades of the centre. Individually furnished, antique-strewn rooms evoke different moods, each highlighting the different landscape glimpsed from the window.

San Luis HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 27 95 70; www.sanluis-hotel.com; Vöranerstrasse 5, Avelengo; hhalf-board s/d €365/630; pWs)

In what's fast becoming a five-star enclave up in Avelengo, the San Luis' luxe-rustic wooden chalets are either by a small lake or nestled 'tree house' style deep in the forest, including a family suite. The spa area includes both an outdoor and indoor pool, the latter housed in a loft barn.

5Eating

oPur SüdtirolDELI€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pursuedtirol.com; Corso della Libertà 35; plates from €9; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; c)S

This stylish regional showcase – now a chain with branches in Bolzano and Brunico – has an amazing selection of farm produce: wine, cider, some 80 varieties of cheese, speck and sausage, pastries and breads, tisanes and body care. Everything is hyperlocal (take Anton Oberhöller's chocolate, flavoured with apple, lemon balm or dark bread crisps).

SigmundALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 23 77 49; www.restaurantsigmund.com; Corso Libertà 2; meals €35-40; hnoon-2.30pm, 6-10pm Thu-Tue)

This intimate place is what Merano is all about: gentility and tradition. A few Italian dishes (steak tagliata, tagliatelle alla bolognese) sit side-by-side with Tyrolean classics (schnitzel, boiled calf's head with onion) and more innovative dishes such as pork in a black-bread crust with local asparagus or risotto with wild-garlic pesto. The terrace is lovely in summer, too.

HellwegerALPINE, PIZZA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 21 25 81; Piazza Duomo 30; meals €28-35; h11.30am-2:30pm, 6-9pm)

This big, bustling place does both pizza and a menu of traditional dishes, including good risottos and pastas. It's nestled away in what appears to be a 14th-century shopping mall but you'll be able to follow your nose to the spot.

ForsterbräuALPINE, PUB FOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 23 65 35; Corso della Libertà 90; meals €35; h10.30am-midnight Tue-Sun, 7-11pm Mon)

This brewery restaurant has a huge beer garden and a number of beautifully designed and cosy dining rooms. Come for a pint or heaped plates of trout, roast boar or calf's head with pickled onions, cabbage and potatoes. Or really bring it home with the Forst plate: pork leg, spare ribs, sausage, knödel (dumplings) and sauerkraut.

SissiGASTRONOMY€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 23 10 62; www.sissi.andreafenoglio.com; Via Galilei 44; meals €57, degustation menu €80/90, lunch special €40)

Andrea Fenoglio is one of the region's best-loved chefs and his big personality fills this small early-20th-century room. The food here is inventive, for sure, but the experience is warm and refreshingly relaxed. Even the most experimental dish retains a connection to the traditional, or what Fenoglio calls 'memory food'.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Why Not?COCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 8015278; Corso Libertà 15; h8.30am-1am Tue-Sun)

Loud, shiny but lots of fun. Stefano loves what he does and most of the cocktail ingredients are homemade. If you're more interested in an aperitivo, there's an interesting spritz menu to choose from.

Café KunsthausBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kunstmeranoarte.org; Via Portici 16; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)

You can while away the hours in this relaxed gallery-cafe, then find yourself still here when the DJs begin and the beer and pizzas are doing the rounds. Note, evening access is from the back lane off Via Risparmio.

7Shopping

Meraner WeinhausWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.meranerweinhaus.com; Via Roma 76; h8.30am-1pm, 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat)

A stylish but very serious wine shop, a few minutes' walk from Merano's centre. It's a great place to discover a number of the region's best producers in one place and there's parking at the front if you're really stocking up.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 27 20 00; www.meraninfo.it; Corso della Libertà 45; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun summer, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat winter)

8Getting There & Away

SAD (%0471 45 01 11, 840 000471; www.sad.it; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-8pm Sun) buses leave Merano bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Stazione) for surrounding mountain villages and the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio.

By train, Bolzano (€5.90, almost hourly) is an easy 40-minute trip from Merano train station (Piazza Stazione), while the Venosta/Vinschgau line heads west to Malles, from where you can catch buses to Switzerland or Austria.

8Getting Around

Hire a bike and helmet next door to Merano's train station; the bikemobil card (www.suedtirolbike.it; 1/3/7 days €24/30/34, children half price) includes both bike rental and unlimited regional train travel, or there are free city bikes for €5 per day, opposite the bikemobil shed or on Via Piave near the Terme Merano (Monday to Saturday). Bike trails track the 65km route between Bolzano, Merano and Malles.

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio

It's not quite Yellowstone, but 1346-sq-km Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 83 04 30; www.parks.it/parco.nazionale.stelvio) is the Alps' largest national park, spilling into the next-door region of Lombardy and bordering Switzerland's Parco Nazionale Svizzero.

It's primarily the preserve of walkers who come for the extensive network of well-organised mountain huts and marked trails that, while often challenging, don't require the mountaineering skills necessary elsewhere in the Dolomites. Stelvio's central massif is guarded over by Monte Cevedale (3769m) and Ortles (3905m), protecting glaciers, forests and numerous wildlife species, not to mention many mountain traditions and histories.

8Getting There & Away

The park is reached via the SS38 from Merano. From June to September, subject to late or early snowfall, you can travel to and from Bormio in Lombardy via the Passo di Stelvio (2757m), the second-highest pass in the Alps and one of Europe's most spectacular roads. The excellent Vinschgau rail service between Merano and Mals – 100% owned and operated by South Tyrol – makes much of this region easily accessible, as do numerous bike trails.

Val di Solda & Val d'Ultimo

The village of Solda (Sulden; 1906m), reached by winding your way up the deep, dark valley of the same name, is surrounded by 14 peaks over 3000m high. This low-key ski resort becomes a busy base for walkers and climbers in summer. The narrow Val d'Ultimo is home to a string of picturesque traditional villages where you can partake in winter or summer sports (including great fishing) or just soak up the beauty and silence.

Messner Mountain MuseumMUSEUM

(MMM Ortles; GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 61 32 66; www.messner-mountain-museum.it; adult/reduced €7/6; h1-7pm Wed-Mon summer, 2-6pm Wed-Mon winter, closed May & mid-Oct–Nov)

Located – quite literally – inside a hill, the unique Messner Mountain Museum Ortles articulates the theme of ‘ice’ with artistically displayed exhibits on glaciers, ice-climbing and pole expeditions, all at 1900m.

EggwirtGUESTHOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 79 53 19; www.eggwirt.it; Frazione Santa Valburga 112; half-board d €136; paW)

The Schwienbacher's welcoming inn has beautifully designed contemporary rooms with dreamlike valley views, a free sauna and a wonderful historic stube to eat your hearty (included) dinner. It's the kind of place that has had repeat guests who've been enjoying the place since childhood.

Yak & YetiALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 61 35 77; Località Solda 55; meals €30; hWed-Mon 3-9pm)

The Yak & Yeti is a 17th-century farmhouse that Messner has transformed into a restaurant, 'bio-homestead' and yak farm; dishes are typical food of the Solda valley – slow-cooked meats, dumplings, pasta – rather than that of the Himalayas, FYI.

Val Venosta (Vinschgau)

The northwestern valley of Val Venosta is prettily pastoral, dotted with orchards, farms and small-scale, often creative, industries including marble quarries and workshops. It may feel remote, nestled as it is within the embrace of towering, snowy peaks, but for much of its history it was a vibrant border zone, long on the road to somewhere. Come and enjoy its gentle way of life, the excellent bike trails – part of the ancient Via Claudia Augusta forms an easy, and intriguing, 80km bicycle trail from Merano to Malles – and easy access to some interesting local ski areas.

1Sights

Lago di ResiaLAKE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Just before the Passo di Resia and Austrian border is the deep blue Lago do Resia, a result of 1950s dam projects. The drowned Romanesque church tower in the lake here might be the region’s de rigueur roadside photo op, but is still oddly, and deeply, affecting.

Besides the view, it's a popular destination for sailing and kiteboarding in summer and ice-fishing and snowkiting in winter, and is also a gateway to the Skiparadies Reschenpass area.

GlorenzaVILLAGE

(Glurns; GOOGLE MAP )

A walled medieval town, Glorenza was once a kingpin in the region’s salt trade. Its pristine burgher houses, colonnaded shops, town gates, fortifications and ramparts were faithfully restored in the 1970s, and while it's certainly picturesque, it retains a comforting normalcy, with the road to Switzerland passing through its very centre.

MarienbergMONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.marienberg.it; Schlinig 1, Malles; museum adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, mid-Mar-Oct, late-Dec–early Jan)

The beautiful Benedictine monastery of Marienberg, perched up some 1340m above Malles, has a museum dedicated to its eight centuries of monastic life, though the view and architecture are worth the drive up alone.

4Sleeping

oGasthof Grüner BaumBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0473 83 12 06; www.gasthofgruenerbaum.it; Piazza della Città 7, Glorenza; d €140; paW)

Gracious Gasthof Grüner Baum combines arresting contemporary architecture, authentic charm and quiet luxury – free-standing baths, antiques and handcrafted furniture are standard issue in the rooms. For as little as €10 extra per person, the half-board option is great as the upstairs dining room is as beautiful as the rest of the hotel.

JosephusLODGE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %335 348299; www.josephus.it; Madonna 42, Senales; 2-/4-person apt €150/220; pW)

Using the historical furniture of the original farm house along with beautiful contemporary design and the wools and wood of the region, these apartments are incredibly evocative and thoroughly South Tyrolean. Up another hidden valley arm, there are magnificent views of Val Senales. They are also very well equipped with full cooking facilities, espresso machines and lovely homewares.

There's also a Finnish and infrared sauna in the barn.

The Dolomites

The jagged peaks of the Dolomites, or Dolomiti, span the provinces of Trentino and South Tyrol, jutting into neighbouring Veneto. Europeans flock here in winter for highly hospitable resorts, sublime natural settings and extensive, well-coordinated ski networks. Come for downhill, cross-country and snowboarding or get ready for sci alpinismo, an adrenalin-spiking mix of skiing and mountaineering, freeride and a range of other winter adventure sports, including on the legendary circuit, the Sella Ronda. It's also a beautiful summer destination, with excellent hiking, sublime views and lots of fresh, fragrant air.

oSella RondaSKIING

(http://sellaronda.info)

One of the Alps' most iconic ski routes, this 40km circumnavigation of the Gruppo di Sella range (3151m, at Piz Boé) – linked by various cable cars and chairlifts – takes in four passes and their surrounding valleys: Alto Adige's Val Gardena, Val Badia, Arabba (in the Veneto) and Trentino's Val di Fassa. Experienced skiers can complete the clockwise (orange) or anticlockwise (green) route in a day.

DOLOMITI SUPERSKI

Dolomiti Superski (www.dolomitisuperski.com; hhigh season 3/6 days €147/258) gives you access to 450 lifts and some 1200km of ski runs, spread over 12 resorts in the Dolomites.

Val di Fiemme

In a region where few valleys speak the same dialect, let alone agree on the same cheese recipe, the Val di Fiemme's proud individualism is above and beyond. In the 12th century, independently minded local noblemen even set up their own quasi-republic here, the Magnificent Community of Fiemme, and the ethos and spirit of the founders lives on, with the modern-day headquarters in the wonderfully frescoed Palazzo Vescovile in Cavalese.

Come here for relaxed skiing at Cermis or for access to other Dolomiti Superski resorts, or for the more adventurous, high-altitude ski excursions and summertime ascents on the gnarly Pale di San Martino and other extraordinary peaks.

4Sleeping & Eating

Agritur la Regina dei PratiAGRITURISMO€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lareginadeiprati.it; Via Margherita Dellafior 17, Masi di Cavalese; s/d €65/100; paW)

Across the river in a village ‘suburb’ of Cavalese, this is a relaxed, family-run place with surprisingly spacious contemporary rooms that have nice extras like heated floors and balconies. The rustic setting is magnificent and is ski-in during winter.

oPark Hotel AzaleaSPA HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 34 01 09; www.parkhotelazalea.it; Via delle Cesure 1; d €180-210; pW)S

This hotel combines impeccable eco-credentials, super-stylish interiors and a warm, welcoming vibe. Rooms are individually decorated and make use of soothing, relaxing colours; some have mountain views, others look across the village's pretty vegetable gardens.

Children's facilities eschew plastic and tat for wood and natural textiles, and there are little daily extras like a groaning afternoon tea spread (all organic, of course). Vegetarians and vegans are welcomed and well catered for.

oEl MolinGASTRONOMY€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 34 00 74; www.alessandrogilmozzi.it; Piazza Battisti 11, Cavalese; meals €60, degustation menus €120; hWed-Mon noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm)

A legend in the valley, this Michelin-starred old mill sits at the historic heart of Cavalese. Downstairs, next to the old waterwheels, you will find playful gastronomic dishes featuring ultralocal, always seasonal ingredients. Streetside, the wine bar does baked-to-order eggs with Trentingrana or truffles, burgers, hearty mains and creative desserts from €15. Its G&T is also known throughout the valley.

8Information

Val di Fiemme Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 24 11 11; www.visitfiemme.it; Via Bronzetti 60; h9am-noon & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat)

8Getting There & Away

A pre-booked shuttle bus Transfer Fiemme (%328 1696199; www.transferfiemme.it) links Cavalese and Ora, Bolzano and Trento.

Val di Fassa

Val di Fassa is Trentino's only Ladin-speaking valley, framed by the stirring peaks of the Gruppo del Sella to the north, the Catinaccio to the west and the Marmolada (3342m) to the southeast. The valley has two hubs: Canazei (population 1866, elevation 1465m), beautifully sited but verging on overdeveloped, and the pretty riverside village of Moena (population 2690, elevation 1114m), more down to earth and increasingly environmentally conscious. Fassa is the nexus of Italy's cross-country skiing scene. Italian cross-country champ Cristian Zorzi hails from Moena and the town also plays host to the sport's most illustrious mass-participation race, the annual Marcialonga.

zFestivals & Events

MarcialongaSPORTS

(www.marcialonga.it; hlate Jan)

Moena plays host to skiing’s most illustrious mass-participation race, the annual Marcialonga, a 70km march through the snow to Canazei and back through Cavalese in the adjoining Val di Fiemme. It's had up to 7570 participants in recent years, and between 2007 and 2017 it's been won by either a Norwegian or a Swede.

1Sights

Museo Ladin de FasciaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 76 01 82; museo@istladin.net; Via Milano 5, Vigo di Fassa; h10am-noon & 3-7pm Jul & Aug, 3-7pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun)F

One of the Ladin valley's fascinatingly kooky cultural museums, with beautiful wood carvings and quotidian objects.

4Sleeping

Garnì LadinB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 76 44 93; www.ladin.it; Strada de la Piazedela 9, Vigo di Fassa; s/d €70/100; pW)

Right in the middle of villagey Vigo di Fassa, midway between Moena and Canazei, the rooms here are full of sweetly kitsch Ladin-alia but have ultramodern bathrooms.

Villa KoflerDESIGN HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 75 04 44; www.villakofler.it; Via Dolomiti 63, Campitello di Fassa; d €170-220; pW)S

An intimate hotel in a valley of giants, just outside of the Canazei bustle; choose from rooms that range across various current design trends and tastes. There's a little gym, a library and, bliss, in-room infrared saunas.

5Eating & Drinking

Sausage StandFAST FOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Marconi, Canazei; sausages €4; h11am-7pm Sep-Jun, 10am-10pm Jul & Aug)

The fork-wielding Ladin sausage cooks are a Canazei institution, with this roadside stall just by the bus stop drawing queues of ravenous skiers all winter long and keeping hikers happy into the night in summer.

El PaélALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 60 14 33; www.elpael.com; Via Roma 58, Canazei; meals €30; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10pm Tue-Sun)

This osteria tipica trentina was known for its traditional Ladin specialities of the valley, but now mixes this up with a contemporary Italian slickness. Luckily for the old fans this works: dishes are carefully prepared and always tasty.

Malga PannaGASTRONOMY€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 57 34 89; www.malgapanna.it; Via Costalunga 29, Moena; degustation €65-75; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm)

Fine-dining interpretations of mountain food stay true to their culinary roots and are served in an evocatively simple setting. Expect to encounter the flavours of Alpine herbs and flowers and lots of game.

Kusk La LocandaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 57 46 27; Via dei Colli 7, Moena; h8am-2am Wed-Mon)

Legendary throughout Val di Fassa for après-ski, this four-way split between a pizzeria, American bar, trash disco and Italian restaurant still manages to maintain a Ladin cosiness.

8Information

Canazei Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 60 96 00; www.fassa.com; Piazza Marconi 5; h8.30-12.30pm & 3-7pm daily Jul-Mar, 8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-Jun)

Moena Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0462 60 97 70; www.fassa.com; Piazza del Navalge 4; h8.30-12.30pm & 3-7pm daily Jul-Mar, 8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-Jun)

8Getting There & Away

SAD buses serve Val di Fassa from Bolzano (€6, 1½ hours, six a day) and Trentino Trasporti runs buses to Val di Fassa from Trento year-round (€6.80, 1½ to 2½ hours, three to four a day).

Val Gardena

Despite its proximity to Bolzano, Val Gardena's historical isolation among the turrets of Gruppo del Sella and Sassolungo has ensured the survival of many pre–mass-tourism traditions. Ladin is a majority tongue and this linguistic heritage is carefully maintained. The pretty and bustling villages are full of reminders of this distinct culture too, with folksy vernacular architecture and a profusion of woodcarving shops.

In recent times, the valley, part of Dolomiti Superski, has become an 'everyman' ski area, with the emphasis firmly on classic runs and fine powder. The valley's main trilingual towns, Ortisei (St Ulrich; population 6000, elevation 1236m), Santa Cristina (population 1900, elevation 1428m) and Selva (Wolkenstein; population 2580, elevation 1563m) all have good facilities.

1Sights & Activites

Museum de GherdëinaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 79 75 54; www.museumgherdeina.it; Via Rezia 83, Ortisei; adult/reduced €7/5.50; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat winter, closed Mon winter)

Ortisei's fabulously folky Museum de Gherdëina has a particularly exquisite collection of wooden toys and sculptures.

Scuola di Alpinismo CatoresOUTDOORS

(%0471 79 82 23; www.catores.com; h8.30-11.30am & 4.30-6.30pm)

Offers botanical walks, climbing courses, glacier excursions and treks.

4Sleeping

oSaslong Smart HotelHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 77 44 44; www.saslong.eu; Strada Palua, Santa Christina; d/tr €60/85, breakfast €11; W)

Rooms are small but comfortable and slick (Antonio Citterio had a hand in the design), staff are friendly and the restaurant is great. The 'smart' concept keeps rates low by making daily cleaning and breakfast optional, and the longer you stay the cheaper the rate.

Charme Hotel UridlHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 79 32 15; www.uridl.it; Via Chemun 43, Santa Christina; s/d half-board €100/180; pai)

Nestled behind the church in the original 'high' village, this is a friendly, character-filled hotel with bright, simple rooms, a heritage stube and beautiful views back over the valley from its sunny garden. Daily free transport to the Sella Ronda lifts is provided in winter.

Chalet GerardHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 79 52 74; www.chalet-gerard.com; Plan de Gralba; half-board s €180, d €280-350; W)

Stunning modern chalet with panoramic views, 10 minutes' drive from Selva proper. There are lots of spots for cosy lolling by the (architect-designed) fire, a steam room and the option to ski in, and, naturally, super-cute rooms. The restaurant is beautiful and romantic – all pine, felt and candlelight – but also soothingly down to earth.

8Information

Ortisei Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 77 76 00; www.valgardena.it; Via Rezia 1, Ortisei; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 4-6.30pm Sun, reduced hours Apr & May, Oct & Nov)

8Getting There & Away

The Gardena Pass links Sëlva to Corvara in Alta Badia and is open year-round but subject to avalanche-risk closures. The Val Gardena is accessible from Bolzano and Bressonone by SAD buses year-round.

Alpe di Siusi & Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio

There are few more jarring or beautiful juxtapositions than the undulating green pastures of the Alpe di Siusi – Europe's largest plateau – ending dramatically at the base of the towering Sciliar Mountains. To the southeast lies the jagged Catinaccio range, its German name, 'Rosengarten', an apt description of the eerie pink hue given off by the mountains' dolomite rock at sunset. Both areas fall within the Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio. While great skiing and hiking are a huge draw, the villages that dot the valleys – including Castelrotto (Kastelruth), Fiè allo Sciliar (Völs am Schlern) and Siusi – signposted by their onion-domed churches, are lovingly maintained, unexpectedly sophisticated and far from mere resorts. Horses are a big part of local life and culture and there's nothing more picturesque than a local chestnut Haflinger pony galloping across endless pastureland.

1Sights & Activites

Parco Naturale Sciliar-CatinaccioPARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

This 7291-hectare park takes in the Sciliar and Catinaccio massifs as well as pine forests, pastureland and lakes.

Alpe di Siusi CablewayCABLE CAR

(Seiser Alm; www.seiseralmbahn.it; one-way/return €11/17; h8am-6pm mid-Dec–Mar & mid-May–Oct, to 7pm summer)

This is a dizzying 15-minute, 4300m trip (800m ascent) from Siusi to Compaccio. The road linking the two is closed to normal traffic when the cableway is open.

Panorama ChairliftCABLE CAR

(one-way/return €6/8.50)

Take the Panorama chairlift from Compaccio to the Alpenhotel, followed by paths S, No 5 and No 1 to the Rifugio Bolzano, one of the Alps' oldest mountain huts, which rests at 2457m, just under Monte Pez (2564m), the Sciliar's summit.

4Sleeping & Eating

Rifugio BolzanoCHALET€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 61 20 24; www.schlernhaus.it; dm/s/d €25/30/60, breakfast €9; hJun-Oct)

The Rifugio Bolzano is one of the Alps’ oldest mountain huts, which rests at 2457m, just under Monte Pez (2564m), the Sciliar’s summit. Take the Panorama chairlift from Compaccio to the Alpenhotel, followed by paths S, No 5 and No 1 to the rifugio; from here it’s an easy walk to Monte Pez (three hours total).

oHotel HeubadSPA HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 72 50 20; www.hotelheubad.com; Via Sciliar 12, Fiè allo Sciliar; d €180-250; pais)

As if the views, pretty garden and lounge areas here weren't relaxing enough, the spa is known for its typically Tyrolean hay baths, which have been on offer since 1903 and give the hotel its name. Delightful service is courtesy of the founder's great- and great-great-grandchildren, while rooms are modern, light and spacious.

Alpina DolomitesHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 79 60 04; www.alpinadolomites.it; d half-board €500-600; paWs)

A suitably high-style super-luxe lodge for one of the world's most beautiful high-altitude plateaus. A stunning contemporary building of wood, stone and glass houses calming, cosy rooms and suites, a wellness centre and restaurant, bar and lounging areas. Views are in abundance.

Gostner SchwaigeALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 8368154; footpath No 3 from Compaccio; meals €35-50; hJun-Oct & Dec-Apr)

Chef Franz Mulser gives new meaning to the tag ‘locally sourced’ at his mountain refuge (elevation 1930m). The butter and cheese come from the barn next door, and herbs from the garden outside. Boards of salami, steaming broth and slow-cooked stews are the order of the day.

8Information

Castelrotto Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 70 63 33; www.alpedisiusi.info; Piazza Kraus 1; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat)

8Getting There & Away

This region is accessed from the A22. SAD runs buses to the Alpe di Siusi from Bolzano, the Val Gardena and Bressanone.

Val Badia & Alpe di Fanes

For centuries potent Ladin legends have resonated across this mystical landscape, which inspired the fantasies of JRR Tolkien. Not surprisingly, the Badia valley and the adjoining high plains of Fanes are often touted as one of the most evocative places in the Dolomites. Since 1980 they have been protected as part of the Parco Naturale di Fanes-Sennes-Braies. Colfosco (1645m), Pedraces (1324m), La Villa (1433m), San Cassiano (St Kassian; 1537m) and Corvara (1568m) form the Alta Badia ski area. While undoubtedly upmarket, they remain relatively low key and retain something of their original, and highly individual, village character.

1Sights & Activities

Museo LadinMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 52 40 20; www.museumladin.it; Tor 65, St Martin de Tor; adult/reduced €8/6.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-6pm Sun summer, 3-7pm Thu-Sat winter)

Atmospherically set in a castle 15km south of Brunico and full of folk treasures.

Alta Badia GuidesGUIDES

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 83 68 98; www.altabadiaguides.com; Via Col Alt 94, Corvara; hoffice 5-7pm)

This group runs freeride, ski circuits and ice-climbing courses and tours, as well as snowshoe walks in winter. In summer it organises climbs, including vie ferrate, trekking and excursions to the natural parks and WWI sites.

4Sleeping

Garni Ciasa UrbanHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.garniurban.it; Via Pantansarè 35, Badia; d €98, 4-bed apt €150; pW)

A simple, welcoming, family-run place, set in a blissfully peaceful spot right at the top of Badia village. The uncluttered, spacious rooms have spectacular views of Santa Croce and home-cooked dinners can be arranged. Note, the Urban of the name is the house saint, not a style or attitude!

oBerghotel LadiniaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 83 60 10; www.berghotelladinia.it; Pedecorvara 10, Corvara; s/d half-board €95/200; paW)

Hotel La Perla's family owners have taken over this traditional small hotel just up the hill from their luxurious place. Rooms are exquisitely simple and rustic and the location is sublime. Included dinners are in the hotel restaurant or a food credit (€40 per person per day) can be used at any of La Perla's restaurants instead.

Dolomit B&BB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 71 20; www.dolomit.it; Via Colz 9, La Villa; d €150-180; paiWs)

Rooms here are very prettily decorated, as well as surprisingly spacious (baths! walk-in wardrobes!). You might be right in the middle of town, but the mountain views are still something to behold. The attached La Tor restaurant does Ladin dishes and pizza; its popularity with locals makes it a fun spot year-round.

Lagacio Mountain ResidenceAPARTMENT, HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 95 03; www.lagacio.com; Strada Micurá de Rü 48, San Cassiano; apt €300-370; paW)S

A stylish residence-hotel with young, happy staff and a casual vibe. Pared-back apartments are decorated with wood, wool and leather; all have heated floors, big baths and balconies. Attention to detail is keen: kitchens come with top-of-the-line equipment, Nespresso machines and filtered mountain water. There is a guest-only bar and lavish all-organic breakfast served in a traditional stube.

5Eating

Rifugio ScotoniALPINE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 73 30; www.scotoni.it; Alpe Lagazuoi 2, San Cassiano; meals €25; hyear-round)

At 1985m there are stunning views, and the traditional food and mountain hospitality make this a quintessential Badia experience. Book ahead to stay in one of the cosy, blonde-wood bunkrooms.

DeliziusDELI€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 01 55; www.delizius.it; Strada Micurà de Rü 51, San Cassiano; h8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)

Specialist cheese and speck counters, well-priced local wine and grappa, plus an excellent selection of prepared meals – canederli, goulash, lasagne – perfect for self-catering diners.

Restaurant LadiniaALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 83 60 10; www.berghotelladinia.it; Pedecorvara 10, Corvara; meals €35, 4-course menu €48; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm May-Oct, Dec-early Apr)

The Berghotel Ladinia's dining room is appealingly cosy, or you can soak up the sun on a protected terrace on warmer days. Mountain-style food is done in a fresh but unpretentious way: trout carpaccio with chicory, paccheri (pasta) with freshwater crayfish, salmon with mashed purple carrots and artichokes, and a yoghurt-mousse dessert will wake up stew-and-dumpling-dulled palates.

Piz ArlaraALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 83 66 33; www.pizarlara.it; Prè Ciablun, Corvara; meals €20-30; h8am-5.30pm mid-Jun–Sep, Dec-early Apr)

A social hub at 2040m; stop by for a spritz with a view or settle in for a lunch of schlutzkrapfen (ravioli), beef goulash or the Tyrolean favourite gröstl (a tasty Alpine bubble and squeak). Kaiserschmarren (scrambled pancakes) and apple fritters are great afternoon revivers, too. Accessible only by the Arlara chairlift from Corvara, or in summer on foot.

La SiriolaGASTRONOMY€€€

(Hotel Ciasa Salares; GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 94 45; www.ciasasalares.it; Pré de Ví 31, Armentarola; meals €75; hTue-Sun 7.15-9.30pm)

A whitewashed pine room nestles in a wonderful setting just outside San Cassiano, and offers a menu that ranges from crowd-pleasers to the more creative. The wine-by-the-glass selection is broader than most fine-dining places, and there is a dessert degustation if you feel like you simply can't look at another dish involving deer or pork. Chocolate is also a speciality.

Stüa de MichilGASTRONOMY€€€

(Hotel La Perla; GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 83 10 00; www.hotel-laperla.it; Col Alt 105, Corvara; meals €110; h7-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

Stuffed with Alpine antiques and built entirely from wood, Stüa de Michil is intimate and ridiculously atmospheric. Beautifully presented dishes rework Ladin or Tyrolean traditions and use biodynamic ingredients. Rare wines are also a speciality.

St HubertusGASTRONOMY€€€

(Hotel Rosa Alpina; GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 95 00; www.rosalpina.it; Strada Micurá de Rü 20, San Cassiano; 3-/4-/5-course degustation €120/145/170; h7-10pm Wed-Mon)

Part of the luxurious Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant has a quiet elegance. The mountain beef cooked in salt and hay is a menu stalwart, as is crispy suckling pig (most recently served with a parsnips and a pig's-head sandwich). Many of Norbert Niederkofler's dishes take a whimsical turn while desserts are pared back to essentials.

8Information

Corvara Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 83 61 76; www.altabadia.org; Via Col Alt 36; h9am-noon & 3-6pm)

San Cassiano Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 84 94 22; Strada Micurá de Rü 24; h8.30am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 4-6pm Sun)

8Getting There & Away

SAD buses link the Alta Badia villages with Bolzano (2½ hours) and Brunico (1¼ hours) roughly hourly. Summer services link Corvara with the Val Gardena and Canazei.

Val Pusteria

Running from the junction of the Valle Isarco at Bressanone (Brixen) to San Candido (Innichen) in the far east, the narrow, verdant Val Pusteria is profoundly Tyrolean and almost entirely German speaking and is a gentle, traditional alternative to the more glamorous Dolomites resorts during the ski season, with plenty to do in summer, too.

Dobbiaco (Toblach), where Gustav Mahler once holed up and wrote his troubled but ultimately life-affirming Ninth Symphony, is the gateway to the ethereal Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di Sesto, home of the much-photographed Tre Cime di Lavaredo ('Three Peaks' or, in German, Drei Zinnen). Down yet another deeply forested valley twist are the jewel-like Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) and its serious Alta Via No 1 walking route.

Bumping the Austrian and Veneto borders in the far northeast is a vast, wild territory, the Sesto Dolomiti, which is criss-crossed with spectacular walking and cross-country ski trails.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

HOTEL PRAGSER WILDSEE

This beautiful historic hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lagodibraies.com; St Veit 27, Prags; half-board d €140) situated on the Lago di Braies still has some rooms fitted out with original furnishing from 1899–1930. Serious walkers might like to tackle part of the Alta Via No 1 that begins here, but it's an equally charming place to stay put and watch the lake's many moods. Beyond its architectural appeal, it's a richly story-filled place for those with an interest in 20th-century history. Grand Duke Franz Ferdinand was a frequent guest in the years just before his assassination, while at the end of WWII it housed a group of high-profile politicians, diplomats, royalty, artists and writers, who were rescued from the SS after being transported to South Tyrol from the Dachau concentration camp.

Bressanone (Brixen)

%0472 / Pop 21,415 / Elev 560m

Alto Adige’s oldest city, dating to 901, might be the picture of small-town calm, but has a grand ecclesiastical past and a lively, cultured side today. Stunning baroque architecture is set against a beguiling Alpine backdrop, a stately piazza leads into a tight medieval core and pretty paths trace the fast-moving Isarco river. Come for excellent hiking in summer, or the spectacular views and beautiful 11km ski run at town mountain Plose in winter or, by all means, just stay, eat, drink and shop.

1Sights & Activities

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San CassianoCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; h6am-6pm Apr-Oct & Dec, 6am-noon & 3-6pm Nov, Jan-Mar)

The lofty two-spired Baroque beauty you see today was built on top of the AD 980 Gothic-Romanesque original in 1745. While the bishop decamped to Bolzano some years back, this remains Südtirol's most important church. Interiors feature Michelangelo Unterberger's altar work depicting the death of Mary, and ceilings by Paul Troger.

Museo DiocesanoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0472 83 05 05; www.hofburg.it; Piazza Palazzo Vescovile 2; €8; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, daily Dec-early Jan)

This museum is far more interesting than most of its ilk, its magnificent palazzo home testament to Bressanone's once-important religious standing. It's popular when the Christmas Market crowds arrive, due to its extensive, and rather bonkers, ‘crib’ collection – nativity figures and dioramas.

Brixen Plose Ski AreaSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.plose.org)

A south-orientated (that is, sunny) ski area at 2500m, 7km from Bressanone, Plose offers more than 40km of slopes for both skiers and snowboarders, with 19km blue, 14km red and 10km of black runs including Trametsch, the longest in South Tyrol. From the top of the mountain, there are spectacular Dolomites views.

Funpark Plose also has a 10km toboggan run, one of the longest in Europe.

4Sleeping

oHotel ElephantHISTORIC HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0472 83 27 50; www.hotelelephant.com; Via Rio Bianco 4; s €95-125, d €160-220; paWs)

This 15th-century inn marks the entrance to old Bressanone, and as the name suggests, once gave shelter to an Indian elephant, a gift on its way to Archduke Maximilian of Austria. The quince-toned exterior hints at what’s inside: extremely comfortable rooms and serenely professional service, exquisite historic stufas (tiled stoves) in the dining room and museum-worthy paintings lining the stairs.

Hotel PuppBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0472 26 83 55; www.small-luxury.it; Via Mercato Vecchio 36; d €250; paW)

Things take a totally contemporary turn at this small and fun hotel, even if its hospitality lineage reaches way back (the owners have branched out from the venerable bakery opposite). Fabulously designed rooms are suite-sized and come with Nespresso machines and wine-stocked fridges; some include a terrace with hot tub and one has its own private pool.

Adults only.

5Eating

VitisITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0472 83 53 43; www.vitis.bz; Vicolo Duomo 3; meals €35-50; h10am-3pm, 5pm-midnight Tue-Sat)

Downstairs from its parent restaurant, the venerable Oste Scuro, Vitis occupies a vaulted, whitewashed shopfront and a pretty vineclad courtyard. The menu is as much a departure as its Alpine-contemporary look, with a menu of light, modern Italian-influenced dishes with global flavours and a light touch. There's a special tartare menu and an extensive cellar to sample.

Oste ScuroALPINE€€€

(Restaurant Finsterwirt; GOOGLE MAP ; %0472 83 53 43; www.ostescuro.com; Vicolo del Duomo 3; meals €50-55; h11.45am-2.15pm & 6.45-9.15pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)

This place would be worth a visit for the decor alone – a wonderful series of dark-wooded rooms strewn with moody mountain paintings and Alpine curios – but the food here is very good, if seriously rich. Don’t pass up the postprandial nut-infused digestives, even if you skip dessert. Tip: lunch menus are a steal at €20.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pupp Konditorei CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pupp.it; Via Mercato Vecchio 37; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat, 7am-noon Sun)

In the Pupp family for almost a hundred years, this is a Bressanone favourite. The cosy velvet booths of this oh-so-'80s cafe are perpetually filled with locals scoffing great coffee and cake. The poppy-seed or walnut potize (stuffed brioche) is known throughout the valley.

Peter’s WeinbistroWINE BAR

(Vinus; GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinothekvinus.it; Via Mercato Vecchio 6; h10am-1pm & 4-10pm Mon & Tue, to midnight Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat)

A classy, dark, low-ceilinged space with an extensive wine-by-the-glass list. Peter – yes, that's him – offers a nightly tavola calda (a limited hot menu; mains €22) on Wednesdays and Fridays and Saturday lunch, and sometimes keeps pouring local drops until midnight.

La HabanaWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0472 83 66 00; www.facebook.com/HabanaBX; Via Portici Maggiore 14; h8am-1pm & 2pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

Smart hole-in-the-wall bar that caters equally well to workers sipping morning espresso, ladies who spritz mid-morning and students nursing a hugo (elderflower and sparkling wine) late into the night.

8Getting There & Away

On the main Bolzano–Innsbruck line (25 minutes, €8.80, times vary), the town is connected by regionals half-hourly. Regional Val Pusteria trains connect to this line a little north at Fortezza (Franzensfeste).

Brunico (Bruneck)

%0474 / Pop 13,700 / Elev 835m

As Val Pusteria's big smoke, Brunico is often relegated to a quick stop on the way to the slopes. But its quintessentially Tyrolean historic centre offers a delightful detour and a great local eating and drinking scene, not to mention easy access to good skiing and hiking, making longer stays a very attractive option.

1Sights & Activites

KronplatzSKIING

(Plan de Corones; GOOGLE MAP ; www.kronplatz.com)

This family-friendly ski area is covered by Dolomiti Superski and is easily accessible by public transport from Brunico, 4km to the north, or by the Ski Pustertal Express, a train that connects directly to the lift at Percha. The ample green and blue runs are still spectacularly set, a rare treat for beginners.

oMessner Mountain Museum KronplatzMUSEUM

(MMM Corones; GOOGLE MAP ; %0471 63 12 64; www.messner-mountain-museum.it; €8 (cash only); h10am-4pm June-Oct, Dec–mid-Apr)

Reinhold Messner's sixth and final mountain museum also sadly happened to be one of the final projects of star architect Zaha Hadid before her untimely death in 2016. Located at 2275m (access is only via the Kronplatz cable car), its buried concrete forms are both architecturally thrilling and spectacularly sited. Inside there's a touching, inspiring collection of objects that accompanied some of the world's most accomplished mountaineers on legendary ascents, displayed in descending galleries and spliced with views out to the peaks and valleys beyond.

War CemetaryCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Riscone)

This pristinely maintained cemetery is set in a forest on Kühbergl just behind the town and has graves of soldiers from the nearby WWI front as well as a section of WWII dead. Most of the WWI soldiers buried here are from the Slavic regions of the old Austro-Hungarian empire and there are Christian, Muslim and Jewish graves. It's a peaceful if solemn place.

4Sleeping

oLa PedevillaAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 50 10 74; www.lapedevilla.it; Strada Pliscia 13, Enneberg; apt €300; paW)

It's only 20 minutes' drive from Bruneck, but this stylish black-clad chalet – next to the architect-owner's home – feels deliciously remote. Two pine-floored bedrooms sit above an open living space that's both calmingly simple and super cosy. Huge windows make everyday cinema of the extraordinary, every-changing mountain and valley views and there's a design-focused library, big TV and a well-equipped kitchen.

oNiedermairhofB&B, BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %348 2476761; www.nmhof.it; Via Duca Teodone 1; ste €195-238; paW)

Niedermairhof is a delightful meeting of family B&B and stylish boutique hotel, set in a rambling old 13th-century farmhouse on Kathrin Mair and Helmuth Mayr's working vegetable farm. There are eight spacious, beautifully designed rooms here, all different and all utterly charming. They variously feature balconies, big baths or mountain views and there's an airy guest loft for relaxing or kids' play.

5Eating & Drinking

Acherer Patisserie & BlumenPASTRIES€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 41 00 30; www.acherer.com; Via Centrale; h8am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat)

Right by the town gate, Acherer Patisserie & Blumen sells strudel and Sachertorte that may just be the region's best; the young owner reopened his grandfather's former bakery after apprenticing in Vienna. His inventive, rather fancy cakes, chocolates and seasonal preserves now grace many of the region's five-starred pillows and breakfast buffets and you can pick them up here.

Pur SüdtirolCAFE, BAR€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 05 05 00; www.pursuedtirol.com; Via Duca Sigismondo 4A; dishes €5-12; h7.30am-7.15pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)

Merano's local gourmet shop has a bustling Brunico outlet and sit-down lunches here are a great option, especially if you're in need of a break from goulash or schnitzel. There's a huge sandwich menu but follow the locals' lead and order one of the smoked fish or vegetarian salads, washed down with a glass of small-producer white or local apple juice.

Rienzbräu BruneckALPINE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 53 13 07; www.facebook.com/rienzbraeubruneck; Via Stegona 8; meals €20-27; h10am-midnight)

It would be sad to stop at this backstreet brewery for just a beer. Join big tables of locals by the vats for a sample of Oma's – grandma's – kitchen, with no-frills dishes ranging from drinking food like smoked beef and cheese plates and barley minestrone to simple pastas, schnitzels and steaks. There's also a rather good pizza.

CapuzinaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %342 6834597; www.capuzina.com; Piazza Cappuccini 1; h5pm-1am Tue-Sat)

Fire pits and art school–style video projections give this bar a big-town feel although it's beloved by locals and staff are fabulously welcoming. The aperitivo scene is also the town's best and there's some nice kicking on and a weekly aperitivo lungo – ie a big buffet – on Thursday evenings. Weekends are all about cocktails and there are Saturday-night DJs or live acts.

7Shopping

Horvat AlimentariFOOD & DRINKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 55 53 97; www.horvat.it; Via Centrale 5; h8.30am-1.30pm, 3-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat)

Jars, tins and bottles of delicious things to take home line this redolently traditional deli. Self-caterers could do worse than a jar of their boar ragù or there are fascinating local herbal syrups, cordials and schnapps. And of course, speck and cheese in all its local forms.

MoessmerFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0474 53 31 11; www.moessmer.it; Via Vogelweide 6; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pm Sat)

Visit local wool manufacturer Moessmer for cashmere and Tyrolean tweeds from its outlet shop on the town's outskirts, or just for an interesting slice of early-20th-century industrial architecture.

8Getting There & Away

SAD buses connect Brunico (45 minutes, hourly) and Cortina (one hour, four daily) to San Candido. Brunico is easily accessible by train from both Bolzano (€6.90, 1½ hours, hourly; via Fortezza (€5.30, 1 hour, half-hourly) and from Lienz in Austria. All regional trains are covered by the HolidayPass that most hotels offer to guests or can be bought from tourist offices.

The Dolomites in Colour

Val di Non

ANGELAFLU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Famed for its apples, the valley is filled with fragrant blossoms in the springtime.

Alpe di Siusi

LUC KOHNEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Horses graze in an idyllic green landscape overlooked by the Sciliar Mountains.

Merano

LUCA LORENZELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The sunny, pretty town of Merano boasts art nouveau villas, beautiful walks and thermal baths.

Brenta Dolomites

EZIO HSU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

This majestic range is home to some of the world’s most famous vie ferrata (trail with cables and ladders) climbs.