Udine

%0432 / Pop 100,500 / Elev 114m

While reluctantly ceding its premier status to Trieste in the 1950s, this confident, wealthy provincial city remains the spiritual and gastronomic capital of Friuli. Udine gives little away in its sprawling semi-rural suburbs, but encased inside the peripheral ring road lies an infinitely grander medieval centre: a dramatic melange of Venetian arches, Grecian statues and Roman columns. The old town is pristine, but also very lively: bars here are not just for posing, for the Udinese, kicking on is the norm.

As well as its culinary and vinous pleasures, the city also has a handful of excellent museums; this was the second home of Tiepolo and there's a number of his works spread over a few sites. You'll often get to see these marvellous works in only your own company.

Udine

1Top Sights

1Museum of Modern and Contemporary ArtB2

2Oratorio della PuritàB2

1Sights

3CastelloB2

4CathedralB2

Galleria d'Arte AnticaB2

5Loggia di San GiovanniB2

6Museo del DuomoB2

7Museo Diocesano & Tiepolo GalleriesC2

8Museo Etnografico del FriuliA3

9Palazzo del ComuneB2

10Piazza della LibertàB2

4Sleeping

11Albergo Vechhio TramA3

12Hotel AllegriaA3

13Locanda Al CappelloB2

14Mercatovecchio Luxury SuitesB2

15Stop & SleepC4

5Eating

16Antica MaddalenaB2

17Caffe 'TomasoC2

18FredA3

19La Bottega del BorgoA3

20Laboratorio del DolceB2

21L'AlimentareA1

OggiB2

22Trattoria ai FratiB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

Al CappelloB2

23Birreria GambrinusA1

24Caffè CaucighA1

25Caffè ContarenaB2

26Frasca di CittaA2

27Leon d'OroA1

28Osteria al BarnabitiB3

29Osteria delle MortadeleB1

1Sights

Piazza della LibertàPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

A shimmering Renaissance epiphany materialising from the surrounding maze of medieval streets, Piazza della Libertà is dubbed the most beautiful Venetian square on the mainland. The arched Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza della Libertà), also known as the Loggia del Lionello after its goldsmithing architect, Nicolò Lionello, is another clear Venetian keepsake, as is the Loggia di San Giovanni ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza della Libertà) opposite, its clock tower modelled on the one gracing Venice's Piazza San Marco.

The Arco Bollani (Bollani Arch), next to the Loggia di San Giovanni, an Andrea Palladio work from 1556, leads up to the castle once used by the Venetian governors.

CathedralCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cattedraleudine.it; Piazza del Duomo; h7am-noon & 4-6.45pm)

The chapels of Udine's 13th-century Romanesque-Gothic cathedral house the Museo del Duomo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 68 30; Piazza del Duomo; h9am-noon & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 4-6pm Sun), with 13th- to 17th-century frescoes in the Cappella di San Nicolò.

oOratorio della PuritàCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; by donation; h10am-noon, ask for key at the cathedral if closed)

The intimate Oratorio della Purità has a beautiful, dramatic ceiling painting of the Assumption by Giambattista Tiepolo, with a glowing Madonna framed by tumbling, rather mischievous looking cherubs. It's a wondrous work. Eight biblical scenes in far more sombre chiaroscuro on the walls are by his son, Giandomenico. The building opened as a theatre in 1680 but the patriarch of Aquileia ordered its transformation 80 years later, repulsed that such a devilish institution existed so close to a cathedral.

oMuseum of Modern and Contemporary ArtGALLERY

(Casa Cavazzini; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 41 47 72; www.civicimuseiudine.it; Via Cavour 14; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, to 5pm winter)

Udine’s modern and contemporary hub brings together a number of bequests, creating a substantial collection of 20th-century Italian artists, including De Chirico, Morandi, Campigli and Mušič. There’s also a surprise stash of notable 20th-century American work, including a Donald Judd, Sol LeWitt and Carl Andre, which were donated by the artists after the 1976 Friulian earthquake. The gallery itself is a beautiful cultural asset, its bold reconstruction designed by the late Gae Aulenti.

You can also discover intriguing remnants of the 16th-century building's previous lives: Roman foundations, spectacular, vivid 14th-century frescoes that were uncovered during construction, and the Cavazzini family's 1930s Rationalist apartment, where you can peek at the old-style gym rings in the bathroom and a formal dining room’s intensely-hued folk-art inspired murals.

Museo Diocesano & Tiepolo GalleriesGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 2 50 03; www.musdioc-tiepolo.it; Piazza Patriarcato 1; adult/reduced €7/5; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Wed-Mon)

The drawcard here are the two rooms featuring early frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo, including the wonderfully over-the-top Expulsion of the Rebellious Angels (1726) at the apex of a grand staircase.

CastelloMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.civicimuseiudine.it/it/musei-civici/musei-civici-del-castello/il-castello; adult/reduced €8/4; h10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, to 5pm winter)

Rebuilt in the mid-16th century after an earthquake in 1511, Udine's castle affords rare views of the city and snowy peaks beyond. It houses a number of different collections, all fascinating. The Museo del Risorgimento is both compellingly designed and set in a series of beautiful rooms, while the Museo Archeologico highlights both locally found objects as well as the region's archaeological heyday of the late 19th-century.

The sprawling upper floors are given to the Galleria d'Arte Antica, which has significant work by Caravaggio (a portrait of St Francis in room 7) , several stunning Tiepolos (room 10), along with lesser-known Friulian painters and religious sculpture.

Museo Etnografico del FriuliMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 27 19 20; www.civicimuseiudine.it; Via Grazzano 1; €1; h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm summer)

A small but engrossing museum of daily life, with various exhibitions devoted to the Friulian hearth, unusual spiritual practices, folk medicine, furniture production and dress. The building itself features soaring ceilings, intricate 19th-century woodwork with carved Friulian forest scenes, and its own little canal gurgling by the entrance.

Galleria d'Arte AnticaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 27 15 91; Colle del Castello; incl in castello admission adult/reduced €8/4; h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm summer)

The Galleria d’Arte Antica has a handful of works by Caravaggio (there is a portrait of St Francis in room 7), Carpaccio (with a work showing the adoration of Christ’s blood in room 3) and Tiepolo (several works in room 10). The bulk of the collection is dedicated to lesser-known Friulian painters and religious sculpture.

4Sleeping

Central Udine has a number of small, smart midrange hotels, and a couple of notable budget places. If you're driving, there are some good B&Bs and farm-stays in the surrounding suburbs or countryside. The tourist office has online listings.

Locanda Al CappelloGUESTHOUSE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.osteriaalcappello.it; Via Paolo Sarpi 5; s/d €70/110; aW)

Upstairs from the stalwart spritzers are six cosy bedrooms, all individually decorated with antiques and rich colours; beautiful original beams and fireplaces feature in the larger ones. Bathrooms are both modern and atmospheric and staff give you a genuine Friulian welcome.

Stop & SleepB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %339 7561610; www.stopsleepudine.com; Viale Europa Unita 101; s/d €45/65; aW)

Don't be put off by the unprepossessing locale, this is a rare find. Five colourful, cutely decorated rooms occupy a top-floor apartment and have mosaic-tiled bathrooms, a full kitchen with DIY breakfast supplies and self-catering facilities, and you'll be greeted by the caring, knowledgable owner. One room is en suite, while the other four rooms share two (spotless) bathrooms.

Hotel AllegriaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 20 11 16; www.hotelallegria.it; Via Grazzano 18; s/d €75/105; pnai)S

This hotel occupies a historic townhouse opposite one of Udine's loveliest little churches. The rooms are large and what might be described as Udinese-organic in style, with lightwood beams, parquetry floors and shuttered windows. Quirk factor points: the hotel has a bocciofila (bowling area) on-site.

oMercatovecchio Luxury SuitesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 00 27; www.mercatovecchio.it; Via del Carbone 1; s €120, d €140-160)

Artist Antonella Arlotti has created Udine's ultimate place to stay. Six elegantly designed suites are packed with various extras, from full kitchens in some to coffee machines and luxe linen throughout. A stylish, simple breakfast spread of sweet and savoury pastries, juice and DIY coffee can be taken at a big table in reception or whisked back to your room.

Albergo Vechhio TramHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 71 64; www.hotelvecchiotram.com; Via Brenari 28; s/d €80/150; aW)

This is a small, friendly business-oriented place in a corner townhouse. Rooms are streamlined and contemporary, though the larger ones retain the mansard lines and rafters of the original townhouse. There's a bijou bar and courtyard, and staff are friendly.

Hotel Clocchiatti NextDESIGN HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 50 47; www.hotelclocchiatti.it; Via Cividale 29; s/d classic €80/130, design €150/190; paWs)

Two properties, one location: older-style classic rooms are in the original villa, while the contemporary steel-and-glass 'Next' rooms line up around a pool and outdoor bar in the garden. It's a pleasant 15-minute walk from the centre, with easy access out of the city if you're driving. Breakfasts include luxurious extras like homemade cakes and Mariage Fres teas.

5Eating

Udine's flavours are as intriguing as the city itself. Look out for country-style cheeses (smoked ricotta and Montasio), game, San Daniele and D'Osvaldo prosciutto and delicious gnocchi and dumplings. Open-air cafes and restaurants are dotted around Piazza Matteotti and the surrounding pedestrian streets. Via Paolo Sarpi and its surrounding streets are lined with lively bars, all with bountiful enough snacks to make a meal of.

oL'AlimentareITALIAN, DELI€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 150 37 27; www.lalimentare.it; Via D'Aronco 39; meals €22; h10am-2.30pm Mon, 10am-2.30pm & 4.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

A bright, young, cool, casual and friendly addition to Udine's dining scene, L'Alimentare serves up eat-in or takeaway meals that strike out beyond the borders. Vegetable curries sit beside Piedmontese meatballs and there's a number of healthy vegetable sides. Friuli's not forgotten though, with excellent local salumi (cured meats) and cheese and great Collio wines like Bastianich's Vespa Bianco on offer.

Laboratorio del DolcePASTRIES€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 29 93 75; www.laboratoriodeldolce.it; Vicolo Sottomonte 2; cakes €3-20; h8am-12.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 8am-12.30pm Sun)

This hidden-away pasticceria is one of Udine's best, supplying many restaurants and shops as well as Udinese in the know. There are cakes, pastries and biscuits from the standard Italian repertoire but also a good range of Friulian specialities such as the gubana, a yeasted brioche-like cake stuffed with a nutty, boozy, spiced filling.

OggiGELATO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oggigelato.it; Via Paolo Sarpi 3a; cones & cups €2.50-3.50; h11am-10pm)

If you're lucky, one of the owners of this fabulous Friulian startup, Andrea, will be on hand to take you through Oggi's 0km ethos. Gelato here is made entirely from Friulian milk and local eggs and while there's concessions to favourite flavours and ingredients from across Italy, there's always a local special: try the biscotto di mais (cornmeal biscuit) and chocolate.

La Bottega del BorgoDELI€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 159 09 73; www.labottegadelborgo.com; Via Grazzano 26; snacks €6-12, meals €15-22; h7am-3pm & 4-10.30pm, bar to 11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun)

This busy corner deli and wine bar has such a winning way it will make you want to up sticks and settle in Udine. Locals drop in for morning coffee, pastries and bread, grab supplies for quick at-home dinners, or have things plated up to eat at the back bar area. Wine here represents Friuli's finest and there's always an elegant sparkling on offer.

Caffe 'TomasoFRIULIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 43 87; www.fvgusto.it; Via della Prefettura 16; meals €25-32; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

Local produce and fresh takes on Friulian standards are served in this dark and highly atmospheric dining room filled with bright wooden furniture under a canopy of vintage lamps. Smart young Friulians come here for dishes that are highly in sync with the seasons with lots of vegetable options for pork-overloaded palates. In summer there are tables overlooking a beautiful garden.

FredFRIULIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 50 59; www.enotecafredudine.com; Via del Freddo 6; meals €25-28; h11am-3pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Sat)

Fred's dark wood and produce-lined shelves are of the stylish variety but there's a very traditional attention to detail here at what is at heart a serious wine purveyor. Meals will be seasonal and often light and fresh: think a salad of shaved raw asparagus or a simple baked chicken breast.

Trattoria ai FratiFRIULIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 69 26; Piazzetta Antonini 5; meals €25-30; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)

A popular old-style eatery on a cobbled cul-de-sac where you can expect local specialities such as frico (fried cheese), pumpkin gnocchi with smoked ricotta, or, in season, white asparagus and fish stew. It's loved by locals, including the university set, for its whopper steaks and its raucous front bar.

Antica MaddalenaFRIULIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 05 44; Via Pelliccerie 4; meals €25; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 6-10pm Mon)

This low-key restaurant, spread over two floors, is known for its quality produce. This is a great place to try frico (fried cheese). It's served both ways: morbido, a cheese-and-potato omelette, and croccante, its snackier crispy-fried form. At aperitivo time, Venetian-style seafood stuzzichini (snacks) can be devoured at a laneway table.

DON'T MISS

RUSTIC TABLES

Friuli's rural cuisine makes the most out of each season's earthy ingredients with bold flavours and traditional miseria (poverty) techniques, even when it's taken way upmarket, as it increasingly is.

The game game is strong, while root vegetables and wild greens enhance pastas and sides. The local Montasio cheese turns up in frico (which turns up everywhere), be that a cheese-enhanced potato pancake or as chip-like crispy fried, well, cheese.

These much-lauded country restaurants are all within an hour's drive of Udine, either in the Colli Orientali or south towards the coast. Here you'll discover the best of Friulian produce done with exceptional flair.

oLa FrascaFRIULIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 67 51 50; Viale Grado 10, Pavia di Udine; meals €35; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Thu-Tue)

A frasca is similar to an osmize, a rustic place serving salumi (cured meats) and wine, and takes its name from the same practice of hanging a branch out as a shingle. Walter Scarbolo's relaxed roadside dining room has retained the frasca experience, and his fans gather for his artisan cured meats, menus that highlight a single seasonal crop, and, naturally, the wonderful Scarbolo wines.

La SubidaFRIULIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0481 6 05 31; www.lasubida.it; Via Subida, Cormòns; meals €50; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Sat & Sun, 7-11pm Mon, Thu & Fri)

A famous family-run inn, with border-crossing dishes and ingredients – rabbit, boar, flowers and berries – that bring the landscape to the plate in a very modern way. Stay over in one of the stunning forest houses and wake to birdsong and rustling leaves. Across the way there is a casual grill and terrace, with great natural orange wines (skin-contact whites) from Paraschos.

Terre e ViniFRIULIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0481 6 00 28; www.terraevini.it; Via XXIV Maggio, Brazzano di Cormons; meals €52; hnoon-2.30pm Tue-Sun, 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

The Felluga family are Friulian wine royalty and their cosy 19th-century osteria looks out over the plantings. Feast on tripe on Thursdays, salt cod on Fridays and goose stew or herbed frittata any day of the week. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.

6Drinking & Nightlife

The Udinese have a reputation for being fond of a drink or three, and with such stellar wines produced in their backyard, who can blame them? Wine bars here are unpretentious though serious about even the simplest wine by the glass and stuzzichini (bar snacks, usually bread slices with various toppings) are plentiful. Don't miss the particularly lively cluster of bars around Largo del Pecile.

oFrasca di CittaWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Corte Giacomelli 4; h8am-11pm Tue-Sat)

With its '50s terrazzo floors and vintage wooden furniture, you'll feel like you've stumbled into a neighbourhood house party. Hang with the locals at the bar or find a quiet spot in one of many rooms lined with overstuffed bookshelves and black-and-white photographs. There's beer on tap, ridiculously good wines and a menu of stomach-liners like frico and polenta.

Birreria GambrinusBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 90 06; www.facebook.com/gambrinusbirreria; Via Paolo Sarpi 18; h5pm-1am Tue-Sun)

Hidden in a small courtyard off the Paolo Sarpi strip, this dark little brewery has a welcoming vibe and some great local artisan beers on tap, including the delicious Gjulia brews from nearby Cividale.

Leon d'OroBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 87 78; 2 Via dei Rizzani; h10am-3pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

A particularly good choice if the weather is balmy (or in any way warm) and the young, good-looking crowd spills out onto the corner terrace, giving it a street-party vibe. Look out for the complimentary plates of fried potatoes doing the rounds: perfect for sopping up the extra spritz you're bound to have here.

Caffè CaucighBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.caucigh.com; Via Gemona 36; h7am-11pm Tue-Sun, to 1am Fri)

This ornate, dark-wooded bar is a perfect Udinese compass point – it feels far more like Prague than points south. Regulars take glasses of red to the pavement for a chat with passing strangers. A calendar of jazz acts – Friuli's finest and some international surprises – play from 10pm on Friday nights.

Osteria delle MortadeleWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Riva Bartolini 8; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat)

Yes, there's a popular restaurant out back, but it's the spill-onto-the-road front bar that will hold your interest. A rock-and-roll soundtrack, excellent wine by the glass, bountiful stuzzichini (snacks) and great company make this a one-drink-or-many destination.

Caffè ContarenaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Cavour 11; h8am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

Beneath the arcades of Palazzo d'Aronco, Contarena's soaring domed ceilings glitter with gold leaf and other Liberty fancy. Designed by Raimondo d'Aronco, a master of the genre and one-time local, it's a glamorous espresso stop or late-night cocktail venue, and beloved by everyone from senior citizens to students.

Al CappelloWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Paolo Sarpi 5; h10.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Fri, to midnight Sat, 10am-3pm & 5.30-9pm Sun winter)

Follow the locals' lead and order what may be northern Italy's most reasonably priced spritz (€1 to €2.50) through the window. Stuzzichini here are generous enough to constitute dinner, or you can eat well at one of the tables.

Osteria al BarnabitiBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 1747850; www.barnabiti.com; Piazza Garibaldi 3a; h10am-midnight Mon-Thu, 10am-1am Fri & Sat)

Fabulously eccentric decor makes this place rather memorable in a city of atmospheric bars. Great wines, grappa and cheese and meat platters complete the picture.

8Information

HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 55 21; Piazza Santa Maria della Misericordia 15)

About 2km north of the centre.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 29 59 72; www.turismofvg.it; Piazza I Maggio 7; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm & 2-6pm Sun)

Super-helpful office; can book you onto local wine tours.

8Getting There & Away

From the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 50 69 41; Viale Europa Unita 31), services operated by SAF go to and from Trieste (€5.75, 1¼ hours, hourly), Aquileia (€3.30, one to 1¼ hours, up to eight daily), Lignano Sabbiadoro (€5.75, 1½ hours, eight to 11 daily) and Grado (€4.05, 1¼ hours, 12 daily). Buses also link Udine and Friuli Venezia Giulia airport (€4.05, one hour, hourly).

From Udine's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Europa Unita) services run to Trieste (€8.75, one to 1½ hours), Venice (€12.30, 1¾ to 2½ hours, several daily) and Gorizia (€4.05, 25 to 40 minutes, hourly).

Cividale del Friuli

%0432 / Pop 11,600 / Elev 138m

Cividale del Friuli, 15km east of Udine, is hauntingly picturesque. Rambling around its dark stone streets makes for a rewarding morning or, better still, stay to enjoy its hearty table and cracking bars. It may be a small country town these days, but in terms of Friulian history and identity it remains hugely significant. Founded by Julius Caesar in 50 BC as Forum de Lulii (ultimately condensed into 'Friuli'), the settlement reached its apex under the Lombards, who arrived in AD 568 and usurped Roman Aquileia a couple of hundred years later. The well-preserved Lombard church here is unique in Europe.

1Sights & Activities

Tempietto LongobardoCHAPEL

(Oratorio di Santa Maria in Valle; GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 70 08 67; www.tempiettolongobardo.it; Via Monastero Maggiore 34; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun summer, to 5pm winter)

Cividale's most important sight is this stunning complex that houses the only surviving example of Lombard architecture and artwork in Europe. Its ethereal stucco reliefs and choir stalls of the darkest wood are unusual and extremely intimate and moving; some elements date as far back as the 8th century.

Ponte del DiavoloBRIDGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Paolino d'Aquileia)

Splitting the town in two is the symbolic Devil's Bridge that crosses the emerald green Natisone river. The 22m-high bridge was first constructed in the 15th century with its central arch supported by a huge rock said to have been thrown into the river by the devil. It was rebuilt post-WWI, after it was blown up by retreating Italian troops.

Cathedral & Museo CristianoCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; museo adult/reduced €4/3; hmuseo 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Wed-Sun)

This 16th-century cathedral houses the Museo Cristiano in a small annexe. Its main treasure, the 8th-century stone Altar of Ratchis is a stunning Lombard relic. Sharp-etched carvings, including a be-quiffed oddly modern Jesus with one very piercing stare, dramatically pop against the smooth white background.

BastianichWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 70 09 43; www.bastianich.com; Via Darnazzacco 44/2, Gagliano)

Joe Bastianich is a certified celebrity in the US, but his Italian vineyards, a few minutes' drive from Cividale, remain all about the wine and gracious Friulian hospitality. Pull up a stool at the new tasting room and sniff and swirl your way through drops made from the surrounding plantings and the Bastianich holdings in nearby Buttrio.

4Sleeping

OrsoneB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 73 20 53; www.orsone.com; Via Darnazzacco 63; s/d €80/150)

A short drive from town, Orsone has a handful of simple, smart rooms upstairs from its vineyard restaurant. Dark wood furniture and beams contrast with crisp white linen and an otherwise contemporary sensibility. It's a fabulously peaceful spot and you won't go hungry or thirsty either.

5Eating & Drinking

Al DuomoGELATO€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Duomo 2; cones & cups €1.30-2.50; h10.30am-1pm & 2.30-9.30pm)

Cividale is made for gelato-licking strolls and this cute artisan gelateria is the the town's best. You'll find all your favourite flavours but also some Friulian specialities, including the gubana (from the nut-filled Slovenian-style cake of the same name) and a deeply woodsy dark honey and walnut.

Osteria alla TerrazzaFRIULIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 3957303; www.facebook.com/osteria.allaterrazza; Via Stretta Cornelio Gallo 3; meals €20; h8am-7.30pm Wed-Mon)

A self-appointed champion of all things Friulian, this street-food style osteria and its laneway 'terrace' serves up little trays of salumi, meat balls, polenta and frico, with well-priced wines by the glass. It also has a range of vac-packed frico to take away.

Antico Leon d'OroFRIULIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 73 11 00; Via Borgo di Ponte 24; meals €20-25; h12-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Thu-Tue)

Eat in the courtyard of this friendly, festive place, just over the Ponte del Diavolo, and, if you're in luck, watch a polenta cook stir the pot. Dishes here couldn't be more regional: sublime d'Osvaldo proscuitto crudo; seasonal pasta enlivened with asparagus and sclupit (a mountain herb); a Friulian tasting plate of frico, salami and herbed frittata; and roast venison.

OrsoneFRIULIAN, BURGERS€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 73 20 53; www.orsone.com; Via Darnazzacco 63, Fraz, Gagliano; meals €35, burgers €10-13; h12-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Wed-Sun)

Nestled among the vines, Joe Bastianch's once fine diner has gone casual. Come here for a mouthwatering menu of local comfort-food dishes – slow cooked eggs and truffles, ravioli, tartare – alongside Italian-American favourites, like spaghetti and meatballs, a veal chop and crab cakes. There's also a stellar list of burgers and sandwiches.

ElliottFRIULIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 75 13 83; www.elliothotel.it; Via Orsaria 50, Buttrio; meals €25-30; h10am-3pm & 5pm-midnight)

Beautiful seafood dishes (using produce from nearby Grado) are a surprise here but there's also a good range of bold-flavoured, prettily plated risottos, pastas, steaks and duck dishes on offer at this smart restaurant, wine bar and hotel.

7Shopping

TirareCERAMICS

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Ristori 12; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sat)

Working with ancient Roman and Middle Eastern techniques, local ceramic artist Stefania Zurchi creates sculptures, reliefs and beautifully decorated utilitarian objects. Her palette evokes the Friulian landscape, moody indigos and olives cut through with a flash of bright oxide yellow and dusty pinks. Her 'girl' figures representing the seasons are highly sought after, as are her touching Madonna-and-child reliefs.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 71 04 60; Piazza Paolo Diacono 10; h10am-1pm & 3-5pm, later in summer)

Has information on walks around the medieval core.

8Getting There & Away

Private (and cute) trains run by Ferrovie Udine Cividale (%0432 58 18 44; www.ferrovieudinecividale.it) connect Cividale with Udine (€2.75, 20 minutes), at least hourly.

San Daniele del Friuli

%0432 / Pop 8200

Hilltop San Daniele sits above an undulating landscape that comes as a relief after the Venetian plains, with the Carnic Alps jutting up suddenly on the horizon. While ham is undoubtedly the town's raison d'être, there's a broad gastronomic bent in play, with a ridiculous number of good alimentari (grocery stores), as well as a number of new culinary industries springing up, such as sustainably farmed local trout.

1Sights

Chiesa di San Antonio AbateCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Garibaldi)

Frescoes are one of San Daniele’s other fortes besides porky products and you’ll find some colourful examples etched by Pellegrino da San Daniele, aka Martino da Urbino (1467–1547), in the small Romanesque Chiesa di San Antonio Abate.

zFestivals & Events

Aria di San DanieleFOOD & DRINK

(Le Festa; www.ariadisandaniele.it; hlate Jun)

San Daniele holds the Aria di Festa, a four-day feeding frenzy of a festival each summer. Prosciuttifici do mass open house tours and tastings, musicians entertain and everyone tucks in.

HAMMING IT UP

There are two world-revered prosciuttos manufactured in Italy: the lean, deliciously nutty (and more famous) ham from Parma, and the dark, exquisitely sweet Prosciutto di San Daniele. It might come as a surprise to find that the latter – Friuli Venezia Giulia's greatest culinary gift to the world – comes from a village of only 8000 people, where it is salted and cured in 27 prosciuttifici (ham-curing plants) safeguarded by EU regulations.

Standards are strict. San Daniele's prosciutto is made only from the thighs of pigs raised in a small number of northern Italian regions. Salt is the only method of preservation allowed – no freezing, chemicals or other preservatives can be used. The X factor is, of course, terroir, the land itself. Some prosciuttifici claim it's the cool, resinous Alpine air meeting the Adriatic's humid, brackish breezes that define their product, others argue that it's about San Daniele's fast-draining soil: such effective ventilation makes for perfect curing conditions.

In late June, the town holds the Aria di San Daniele, a multiday annual ham festival when prosciuttifici do mass open house tours and tastings and there's much gourmet celebrating. San Daniele's tourist office has a list of prosciuttifici that also welcome visitors year-round; call ahead to book your tasting.

5Eating & Drinking

Ai BintarsITALIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 95 73 22; www.aibintars.com; Via Trento Trieste 67; mains €15-25; h9am-11pm Fri-Tue, 9am-3pm Wed; p)

No menu, no fuss, no kerbside appeal, Ai Bintars simply serves the best prosciutto and salami alongside small plates of marinated vegetables, local cheeses and generous hunks of bread.

Osteria di TancrediFRIULIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 94 15 94; www.osteriaditancredi.it; Via Sabotino 10; plates €8-10, meals €30; hnoon-10pm Thu-Tue)

Serves up Friulian classics, cjalcions (filled pasta), frico and apple gnocchi in a cosy room that pares back the rustic touches to a pleasing simplicity.

Enoteca la TrappolaWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 94 20 90; Via Cairoli 2)

Head to dark and moody Trappola for crowd-pleasing platters of prosciutto (from €6), cheese (€6 to €8) or smoked trout (€8) and well-priced wine by the glass with a very local, very vocal crowd.

Il MichelaccioBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 1; h10am-1am)

This is the bar that's open when all the genteel wine bars are shuttered (and where all the hospitality staff head after their shifts are done), but it's also a great all day hang-out with good coffee, great spritzes and a none-too-shabby list of wines by the glass.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0432 94 07 65; www.turismofvg.it/Locality/San-Daniele-del-Friuli; Via Roma 3; h9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses run to San Daniele from Udine (€4.75, 45 minutes), 25km to the southeast.

The Carnic Alps

Stretching as far west as the Veneto Dolomites and as far north as the border with Austria, Carnia is intrinsically Friulian – the language is widely spoken here in lieu of Italian – and named after its original Celtic inhabitants, the Carnics. Geographically, it contains the western and central parts of the Carnic Alps and presents both down-to-earth ski areas, wild and beautiful walking country, and curious, pristinely rustic villages.

Sauris

%0433 / Elev 1212m / Pop 430

Up towards Friuli's far northwest border, an insanely twisted road takes you past the plunging Lumiei Gorge to emerge at the intensely blue Lago di Sauris. Another 4km west is the village of Sauris di Sotto and another 4km on, eight switchbacks and a few dripping rock tunnels included, is the breathtakingly pretty Sauris di Sopra. These twin hamlets (in German, Zahre) are an island of unique dark timber houses and German-speakers, and are known for their fine hams, sausages and locally brewed beer. There are also lots of good walking trails, much fresh air and exquisite silence, plus in winter you're close to good, uncrowded local ski runs.

4Sleeping

Albergo Diffuso SaurisAPARTMENT€

(www.albergodiffusosauris.com; 2-6 bed apt €80-180)

Part of the larger alberghi diffusi (or scattered hotels) movement in the Carnic region, the Albergo Diffuso Sauris offers various apartments in a collection of refurbished village houses, all constructed in the unusual local vernacular style, with deep verandahs screened with horizontal slats.

oMaanja SuitesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0433 8 62 27; www.sauris811.it; Località La Maina 10; ste €150-210; piWs)

Overlooking the bright aqua Lago di Sauris and surrounded by dark pine forests and Alpine peaks, this new addition to a traditional mountain has a handful of stylishly sparse but fabulously comfortable suites. Most have full kitchens and some come with huge whirlpools and covered balconies.

Borgo EibnLODGE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %392 0027191; Stavoli Ander Eibn 80, Sauris di Sotto; ste €250-290)

In a secluded location, up a steep winding road from the village, Borgo Eibn has created a folk-luxe playground. Three large chalets of reclaimed timber and local stone house 15 apartments and suites which have traditional stufa fireplaces, lots of pretty wooden furniture and cosy contemporary textiles.

5Eating

Speck StubeDELI, FRIULIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sauris di Sopra 44, Sauris di Sopra; meals €8-12; hbar 7.30am-12.30pm Mon & Thu, to 8.30pm Fri-Sun & Wed, shop 7.30am-12.30pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat)

On one side, this village epicentre will sell you cheese, wine, the fabulous local Wolf-brand prosciutto or a bottle of wine, on the other grab your morning espresso, afternoon beer or settle in for a hearty dinner of local meats, cheese, frico and polenta.

Maanja RestaurantFRIULIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0433 86 227; www.sauris811.it; Località La Maina 10; meals €25-32)

Part of the small Maanja hotel, this is a surprisingly urban space, with dramatic black slate floors, long rustic-modern fir tables and contemporary Italian chairs, with an equally dramatic view out floor-to-ceiling windows. The food too has a casual sophistication.

8Getting There & Away

There is no direct public transport connection to Sauris, rather buses run from Tolmezzo or Gemona, usually with a change at Ampezzo. By car it's an hour to an hour and a half via the A23 to Ampezzo and then by regional roads.

The Giulie Alps

Named after Julius Caesar, the Giulie Alps' dramatic limestone monoliths bear more than a passing resemblance to their more famous Dolomite cousins. These rugged, frigid peaks are shared with Slovenia, with the Triglavski Narodni Park just across the border. Though there's been some recent development of the region, including a cross-border ski lift, the area is still relatively pristine and retains a wildness often lacking in the west.

It has excellent hiking terrain with some of the loneliest, most scenic trails in Italy. As the area stands at the meeting point of three different cultures, multilingual skills can come in handy. Hikers should get ready to swap their congenial salve (Italian) for a grüss gott (German) or dober dan (Slovenian).

Tarvisio

Tarvisio (Tarvis in Friulian and German) is 7km short of the Austrian border and 11km from Slovenia. Down to earth and prettily wedged into the Val Canale between the Giulie and eastern Carnic Alps, it's a good base for both winter and summer activities.

Tarvisio is famous for its historic Saturday market, which has long attracted day trippers from Austria and Slovenia and is now open during the week too. It has a definite border-town buzz, though since the advent of Schengen, the trade is mostly in dubious-looking leather jackets.

Sella NeveaSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sellanevea.net)

The Sella Nevea resort has a number of satisfying red runs and respected freeride and backcountry skiing.

Laghi di FusineHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The Fusine lakes lie within mirror-signalling distance of the Slovenian border and are perennially popular with hikers in summer and cross-country skiers and snowshoers in winter. The two lakes – Lago Superiore and Lago Inferiore – are ringed by paths and encased in the Parco Naturale di Fusine.

No Borders Music FestivalMUSIC

(www.nobordersmusicfestival.com; hJul)

Indie-ish music festival with at least one big name headliner each year. There are good-value hotel and ticket deals (€50 to €60).

Hotel EdelhofHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0428 4 00 81; www.hoteledelhof.com; Via Armando Diaz 13; s/d €75/140; pW)

Situated right by the lifts with large, airy rooms furnished with hand-painted wooden furniture and a basement spa. Seven-night minimum in high season.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0428 21 35; Via Roma 14; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun winter, reduced hours summer)

The helpful tourist office has trekking maps and details on Alpine conditions.

8Getting There & Away

Trains connect Tarvisio with Udine (€9.65, 1¼ hour, up to seven daily).

Coffee Culture

From Trapani to Tarvisio, every day begins with coffee. A quick cup from a stove-top Moka pot might be the first, but the second (third, fourth and fifth) will inevitably be from a neighbourhood bar. Italians consider these visits a moment to pause, but rarely linger. It’s a stand-up sniff, swirl and gulp, a buon proseguimento to the barista, and on your way.

Origins

Coffee first turned up in mid-16th-century Venice, then a few years later in Trieste, care of the Viennese. While basic espresso technology made an appearance in the early 19th century, it wasn’t until 1948 that Gaggia launched the first commercial machines. These reliably delivered full-bodied espresso shots with the characteristic aromatic crema: Italy was hooked. The machines, in fact the whole espresso ritual, spoke of a hopeful modernity as Italy reimagined itself as an urban, industrial postwar nation.

Espresso coffee being made | MANASTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Today's Cup

Italy’s superior coffee-making technology took seed around the world, carried by postwar immigrants. Global coffee culture today may embrace latte art and new brewing technologies, but in Italy tradition holds sway. Italians still overwhelmingly favour Arabica and Robusta blends with a dense crema, high caffeine jolt and, crucially, a price point everyone can afford. Roasts remain dark and often bitter – Italians routinely sweeten coffee – but Italian baristas use far less coffee per shot and ultra smooth blends. Espresso is the overwhelming order of choice and takeaway cups uncommon. Why? Clutching a coffee on the move misses coffee’s dual purpose for Italians: contemplation and social belonging.

Streetside cafe, Rome | MURATART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bean Hunting

Finding your ultimate Italian espresso is trial and error, albeit enjoyable and inexpensive. Best-of lists will only get you so far: Rome’s famed Caffè Sant’Eustachio, Florence’s Gilli and Naples’ Caffè Gambrinus will almost certainly get it right, but so too will many small town bars. Take note of torrefazionie (bean roasters): global giants like Trieste’s Illy and Turin’s Lavazza are reliable, but do seek out regional favourites, such as Verona’s Giamaica, Parma’s Lady, Piemonte’s Caffè Vergnano and Pascucci from Le Marche.

Coffee beans from Trieste's Illy brand | CLARI MASSIMILIANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Barista Basics

ACaffè, espresso Short shot of black coffee.

ARistretto Short espresso.

ALungo Long espresso.

AAmericano Espresso with added hot water.

AMacchiato Espresso ‘stained’ with a little milk.

ACappuccino Espresso with steamed milk.

ACappuccino scuro Strong (dark) cappuccino.

AMarochino Small cappuccino with cocoa.

ALatte macchiato Dash of coffee in steamed milk.

ADeca Decaf.

ACorretto Spiked espresso, usually with grappa.