Santa Croce

oAll'Antico VinaioOSTERIA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 238 27 23; www.allanticovinaio.com; Via de' Neri 65r; tasting platters €10-30; h10am-4pm & 6-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun)

The crowd spills out the door of this noisy Florentine thoroughbred. Push your way to the tables at the back to taste cheese and salami in situ (reservations recommended). Or join the queue at the deli counter for a well-stuffed focaccia wrapped in waxed paper to take away – the quality is outstanding. Pour yourself a glass of wine while you wait.

Koto RamenJAPANESE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 247 94 77; http://kotoramen.it; Via Giuseppe Verdi 42r; meals €20; h12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Wed-Fri & Mon, 7-10.45pm Sat & Sun)

When Tuscany's meaty fare tires, make a beeline for this crisp-cut, contemporary space with huge windows overlooking the street and the finest bowls of steaming ramen (Japanese wheat noodles with meat, veg or tofu) in town. The €13 lunch menu (€14.50 with water and wine or sake) is unbeatable value.

BracVEGETARIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 094 48 77; www.libreriabrac.net; Via dei Vagellai 18r; meals €20; hnoon-midnight, closed 2 weeks mid-Aug; Wv)

This hipster cafe-bookshop – a hybrid dining-aperitivi address – cooks up inventive, home-style and strictly vegetarian and/or vegan cuisine. Its decor is recycled vintage with the occasional kid's drawing thrown in for that intimate homey touch; and the vibe is artsy.

oIl Teatro del SaleTUSCAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 200 14 92; www.teatrodelsale.com; Via dei Macci 111r; lunch/dinner/weekend brunch €15/35/20; h11am-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun, closed Aug)

Florentine chef Fabio Picchi is one of Florence's living treasures who steals the Sant' Ambrogio show with this eccentric, good-value, members-only club (everyone welcome, membership €7) inside an old theatre. He cooks up weekend brunch, lunch and dinner, culminating at 9.30pm in a live performance of drama, music or comedy arranged by his wife, artistic director and comic actress Maria Cassi.

VivoFISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %333 1824183; www.ristorantevivo.it; Largo Pietro Annigoni 9a/b; seafood platters €15-50, meals €45; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; W)

Raw fish, shellfish, oysters and other fishy dishes – all caught in waters around Italy by the Manno family's 30-strong fleet of fishing boats – are cooked up by chef Anna Maria at this fish restaurant, inside a hangar-styled contemporary space with a fishing-boat-shaped bar. Everything is ultra-fresh and the daily changing menu includes many a rare or forgotten fish.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

STREET FOOD

'Bringing the countryside to the city' is the driver behind La Toraia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 5367198; www.latoraia.com; Lungarno del Tempio; burger €6, with cheese €7; hnoon-midnight 15 Apr-15 Oct), a cherry-red artisan food truck whose name translates as 'breeding shed'. Parked riverside, a 15-minute stroll east of Piazza di Santa Croce, the truck cooks up sweet 140g burgers, crafted from tender Chianina meat sourced at the family farm in Val di Chiana and topped with melted pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese). Real-McCoy homemade fries (€4; made from organic Tuscan potatoes grown on the farm, of course), craft beers (€4) from the same valley, and a bunch of table, chairs and comfy loungers by the river cap off the bucolic al fresco experience.

Oltrarno

New places to eat are forever popping up in this increasingly gentrified neighbourhood on the 'other side' of the Arno, home to some outstanding restaurants. Vegetarian, organic and raw cuisine are also at their Florentine best here. Several gourmet choices frame Piazza del Passera, an impossibly enchanting square with no passing traffic.

oRawHEALTH FOOD€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 93 79; Via Sant'Agostino 9; meals €7.50; h11am-4pm & 7-10pm Thu & Fri, 11am-4pm Sat, Sun, Tue & Wed; W)

Should you desire a turmeric, ginger or aloe vera shot or a gently warmed, raw vegan burger served on a stylish slate-and-wood platter, Raw hits the spot. Everything served here is freshly made and raw – to sensational effect. Herbs are grown in the biodynamic greenhouse of charismatic and hugely knowledgeable chef Caroline, a Swedish architect before moving to Florence.

There are cold-pressed juices, smoothies, soups and wraps too, all to eat here – in a beautifully sleek and soothing, candlelit space – or to take away.

S.FornoBAKERY€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 239 85 80; Via Santa Monaco 3r; h7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun)

Shop at this hipster bakery, around for at least a century, for fresh breads and pastries baked to sweet perfection in its ancient forno (oven) by local baker Angelo. Gourmet dried products stack up on vintage shelves and they also cook up soups, quiches and bespoke panini (€4 to €6) too, to eat in or out.

CarduccioORGANIC€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 238 20 70; www.carduccio.com; Sdrucciolo de Pitti 10r; meals €15; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; W)

With just a handful of tables inside and a couple more alfresco, this salotto bio (organic living room) oozes intimacy. Miniature cabbage 'flowers' decorate each table, fruit and veg crates stack up by the bar, and the menu is 100% organic. Knock back a ginger and turmeric shot (€3) or linger over delicious salads, soups, vegan burgers or pumpkin and leek patties.

GnamBURGERS€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 22 39 52; www.gnamfirenze.it; Via di Camaldoli 2r; burgers €10-12; h7-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Sun; W)

Bread arrives at the table in a paper bag and fries come in a miniature copper cauldron at this artisanal burger joint in San Frediano. Ingredients are seasonal, locally sourced and organic – and there are vegetarian and gluten-free burgers as well as traditional beef. Delicious soups also (€8), to eat in or take away from Gnam's joint across the street.

GestoTUSCAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 24 12 88; www.gestofailtuo.it; Borgo San Frediano 27r; meals €25; h6pm-2am)

Enter hipster Florence: candlelit Gesto is all about eco-sustainability, so much so that all the furniture in the well-scrubbed vintage space is salvaged or upcycled and diners write down their own order on a mini blackboard that subsequently doubles as a plate. Fish, meat and veg dishes (€3.50 to €5) are tapas style – order a few to share for the entire table.

oEssenzialeTUSCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 247 69 56; http://essenziale.me/; Piazza di Cestello 3r; 3-/5-/7-course tasting menu €35/55/75, brunch €28; h7-10pm Tue-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; W)

There's no finer showcase for modern Tuscan cuisine than this loft-style restaurant in a 19th-century warehouse. Preparing dishes at the kitchen bar, in rolled-up shirt sleeves and navy butcher's apron, is dazzling young chef Simone Cipriani. Order one of his tasting menus to sample the full range of his inventive, thoroughly modern cuisine inspired by classic Tuscan dishes.

oIl Santo BevitoreTUSCAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 12 64; www.ilsantobevitore.com; Via di Santo Spirito 64-66r; meals €40; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm, closed Sun lunch & Aug)

Reserve or arrive right on 7.30pm to snag the last table at this ever-popular address, an ode to stylish dining where gastronomes eat by candlelight in a vaulted, whitewashed, bottle-lined interior. The menu is a creative reinvention of seasonal classics: risotto with monkfish, red turnip and fennel; ribollita (bean, vegetable and bread soup) with kale; or chicken liver terrine with brioche and a Vin Santo reduction.

oBurro e AcciugheTUSCAN€€

(Butter & Anchovies; GOOGLE MAP ; %055 045 72 86; www.burroeacciughe.com; Via dell'Orto 35; meals €35; hnoon-2pm & 7pm-midnight Fri-Sun, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu)

Carefully sourced, quality ingredients drive this fishy newcomer that woos punters with a short but stylish choice of raw (tartare and carpaccio) and cooked fish dishes. The gnocchi topped with octopus ragù (stew) is out of this world, as is the baccalà (salted cod) with creamed leeks, turnip and deep-fried polenta wedges. Excellent wine list too.

oSan Niccolò 39SEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 200 13 97; www.sanniccolo39.com; Via di San Niccolò 39; meals €40; h7.30pm-11pm Mon-Sat; W)

With a street terrace at the front and hidden summer garden out the back, this contemporary address in quaint San Niccolò is a gem. Fish – both raw and cooked – is the house speciality, with chef Vanni cooking up a storm with his creative salted-cod burgers, swordfish steak with radicchio, and famous linguine (fat spaghetti) with squid ink and Cetara anchovy oil.

The two-course lunch menu for €16, or €20 including a glass of wine and water, is fantastic value.

GurdulùRISTORANTE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 22 23; www.gurdulu.com; Via delle Caldaie 12r; meals €40, tasting menu €55; h7.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Sun; W)

Gourmet Gurdulù seduces fashionable Florentines with razor-sharp interior design, magnificent craft cocktails and seasonal market cuisine from young local chef Gabriele Andreoni. A hybrid drink-dine, this address is as much about noshing gourmet aperitivi (pre-dinner drinks) snacks over expertly mixed cocktails – thanks to talented mixologist Sabrina Galloni – as it is about dining exceedingly well.

Osteria dell'EnotecaTUSCAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 27 04; www.osteriadellenoteca.com; Via Romana 70r; meals €30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon)

With its vintage red-brick walls, taupe table linen and contemporary designer lighting, this osteria near Palazzo Pitti is the perfect fusion of old and new. And then there's the food and wine: fantastic grilled meats, some of the finest bistecca (steak) in town and at least 150 wine labels, all carefully sourced by the expert foodies from Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina.

TameròITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 25 96; www.tamero.it; Piazza Santo Spirito 11r; meals €25; hnoon-3pm & 6.30pm-2am Tue-Sun; W)

A happening pasta bar on Florence's hippest square: admire chefs at work in the open kitchen while you wait for a table. A buoyant, party-loving crowd flocks here to fill up on imaginative fresh pasta, giant salads and copious cheese and salami platters. Decor is trendy industrial, aperitivo 'happy hour' (€9) is 6.30pm to 9pm, and weekend DJs spin sets from 10pm.

oLa Leggenda dei FratiTUSCAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 068 05 45; www.laleggendadeifrati.it; Villa Bardini, Costa di San Giorgio 6a; menus €60 & €75, meals €70; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun; W)

Summertime's hottest address. At home in the grounds of historic Villa Bardini, Michelin-starred Legend of Friars enjoys the most romantic terrace with a view in Florence. Veggies are plucked fresh from the vegetable patch, tucked between waterfalls and ornamental beds in Giardino Bardini, and contemporary art jazzes up the classically chic interior. Cuisine is Tuscan, gastronomic and well worth the vital advance reservation.

FAST-FOOD FAVOURITE: TRIPE

When Florentines fancy a fast munch-on-the-move, they flit by a trippaio – a cart on wheels or mobile stand – for a tripe panini (sandwich). Think cow's stomach chopped up, boiled, sliced, seasoned and bunged between bread.

Those great bastions of good old-fashioned Florentine tradition still going strong include Il Trippaio del Porcellino ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %335 8070240; Piazza del Mercato Nuovo 1; tripe €4.50; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) on the southwest corner of Mercato Nuovo; L'Antico Trippaio ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %339 7425692; Piazza dei Cimatori; tripe €4.50; h9.30am-8pm); Trippaio Sergio Pollini ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Sant' Ambrogio; tripe €3.50; h9.30am-3pm Mon, to 8pm Tue-Sat) in Santa Croce; and hole-in-the-wall Da Vinattieri ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Santa Margherita 4; panini €4.50; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) tucked down an alley next to Dante's Chiesa di Santa Margherita. Pay €4.50 for a panini with tripe doused in salsa verde (pea-green sauce of smashed parsley, garlic, capers and anchovies) or garnished with salt, pepper and ground chilli. Alternatively, opt for a meaty-sized bowl (€5.50 to €7) of lampredotto (cow's fourth stomach that is chopped and simmered for hours).

The pew-style seating at staunchly local Osteria del Cocotrippone ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 234 75 27; www.facebook.com/OsteriaCocoTrippone; Via Vincenzo Gioberti 140; meals €25; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm) in the off-centre Beccaria neighbourhood is not a coincidence: Florentines come here to venerate the offal side of their city's traditional cuisine. The trippa alla fiorentina (tripe in tomato sauce) and L'Intelligente (fried brain and zucchini) are local legends.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Florence's drinking scene covers all bases. Be it historical cafes, contemporary cafes with barista-curated specialist coffee, traditional enoteche (wine bars, which invariably make great eating addresses too), trendy bars with lavish aperitivo buffets, secret speakeasies and edgy cocktail or craft-beer bars, drinking is fun and varied. Nightlife, less extravagant, revolves around a handful of dance clubs.

Around the Duomo & Piazza della Signoria

oLa Terrazza Lounge BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 2726 5987; www.lungarnocollection.com; Vicolo dell' Oro 6r; h2.30-11.30pm Apr-Sep)

This rooftop bar with wooden-decking terrace accessible from the 5th floor of the 1950s-styled, design Hotel Continentale is as chic as one would expect of a fashion-house hotel. Its aperitivo buffet is a modest affair, but who cares with that fabulous, drop-dead-gorgeous panorama of one of Europe's most beautiful cities. Dress the part, or feel out of place. Count on €19 for a cocktail.

MaydayCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 238 12 90; Via Dante Alighieri 16; cocktails €8; h7pm-2am Tue-Sat)

Strike up a conversation with passionate mixologist Marco at Mayday. Within seconds you'll be hooked on his mixers and astonishing infusions, all handmade using wholly Tuscan ingredients. Think pancetta-infused whisky, saffron limoncello (lemon liqueur) and porcini liqueur. Marco's cocktail list is equally impressive – or tell him your favourite flavours and let yourself be surprised.

Beer lovers will enjoy the pale ales, bitter and other artisanal brews from Tuscany's Birrificio Artigianale Ororo microbrewery.

CoquinariusWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coquinarius.com; Via delle Oche 11r; h12.30-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon)

With its old stone vaults, scrubbed wooden tables and refreshingly modern air, this enoteca run by the dynamic Nicolas is spacious and stylish. The wine list features bags of Tuscan greats and unknowns, and outstanding crostini and carpacci (cold sliced meats) ensure you don't leave hungry. The ravioli stuffed with silky burrata cheese and smothered in pistachio pesto is particularly outstanding.

YABCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 51 60; www.yab.it/en; Via de' Sassetti 5r; h7pm-4am Mon & Wed-Sat Oct-May)

Pick your night according to your age and tastes at this hugely popular nightclub with electric dance floor, around since the 1970s, behind Palazzo Strozzi.

Shake CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 59 52; www.shakecafe.bio; Via del Corso 28-32; h7.30am-8pm)

Smoothie bowls with protein powder, kale and goji berries, cold-pressed juices and vitamin-packed elixir shots – to eat in or take away – satisfy wellness cravings at this laid-back cafe on people-busy Via del Corso. International newspapers, mellow music and a relaxed vibe make it a hipster place to hang. All-day wraps, salads and hearty, homemade soups (€6 to €7.50), too.

BEST SUMMER TERRACES

Santarosa Bistrot ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 230 90 57; www.facebook.com/santarosa.bistrot; Lungarno di Santarosa; h8am-midnight; W) Hipster garden bistro-bar beneath trees in Santarosa gardens.

Flò ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 65 07 91; www.flofirenze.com; Piazzale Michelangelo 84; h7.30pm-4am summer) Summertime terrace bar with dancing, drinks and city views to die for.

La Terrazza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; La Rinascente, Piazza della Repubblica 1; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun) Coffee atop the city's central department store.

La Terrazza Lounge Bar Rooftop chic in 1950s-styled design hotel by the river.

Amblé ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 26 85 28; Piazzetta dei del Bene 7a; h10am-midnight Tue-Sat, noon-midnight Sun) Shabby-chic terrace in a back alley, a block from the Arno.

Santa Maria Novella

oTodo ModoCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 239 91 10; www.todomodo.org; Via dei Fossi 15r; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun)

This contemporary bookshop with hip cafe and pocket theatre at the back makes a refreshing change from the usual offerings. A salvaged mix of vintage tables and chairs sits between book- and bottle-lined shelves in the relaxed cafe, actually called 'UqBar' after the fictional place of the same name in a short story by Argentinian writer Jorges Luis Borges.

Space ClubCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 29 30 82; www.facebook.com/spacefirenze2; Via Palazzuolo 37r; admission variable; h10pm-4am)

Sheer size alone at this vast nightclub in Santa Maria Novella impresses – dancing, drinking, video-karaoke in the bar, and a mixed student-international crowd.

TenaxCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %335 5235922; www.tenax.org; Via Pratese 46; admission varies; h10pm-4am Thu-Sun Oct-Apr)

The only club in Florence on the European club circuit, with great international guest DJs and wildly popular 'Nobody's Perfect' house parties on Saturday night; find the warehouse-style building out of town near Florence airport. Take bus 29 or 30 from Stazione di Santa Maria Novella.

BEST CAFES

Good cafes are a dime a dozen in Florence. Prime squares to sit and people-watch from a pavement terrace are Piazza della Repubblica, Piazza Santo Spirito and Piazza della Signoria. A coffee drunk standing at the bar is dramatically cheaper than one drunk sitting down.

Ditta Artigianale ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 274 15 41; www.dittaartigianale.it; Via de' Neri 32r; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri, 9.30am-midnight Sat; W) Hipster coffee roastery and gin bar.

Caffè Rivoire ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 44 12; www.rivoire.it; Piazza della Signoria 4; h7am-midnight Tue-Sun summer, to 9pm winter) Famous drinking hole with legendary hot chocolate on Piazza della Signoria.

Le Murate Caffè Letterario ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 234 68 72; www.lemurate.it; Piazza delle Murate Firenze; h9am-1am; W) Artsy cafe-bar away from the tourist crowd in the city's former jail.

Gilli ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 38 96; www.gilli.it; Piazza della Repubblica 39r; h7.30am-1.30am) Historic cafe at home on Florence's old Roman forum; serious cakes!

San Lorenzo & San Marco

oLo SversoCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %335 5473530; www.facebook.com/losverso.firenze; Via Panicale 7-9r; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun)

In a part of town where drinking holes are unusually scarce, stylish Lo Sverso is a real gem. Bartenders shake cocktails using homemade syrups (any cocktail using their feisty basil syrup is a winner), the craft beers – several on tap – are among the best in Florence and their home-brewed ginger ale is worth a visit in its own right.

oDitta Al CinemaCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 045 71 63; Via Cavour 50r; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W)

At home in Florence's historic La Compagnia cinema, the third and most recent space of iconic coffee roaster and gin bar Ditta Artigianiale doesn't disappoint. Some 150 different labels of gin jostle for the limelight at the bar, while barman Lorenzo's cocktail list plays on the cinema's heritage with drinks named after movie classics. Breakfast, lunch, brunch and all-day tapas too.

Santa Croce

Blob ClubCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %324 8043276; Via Vinegia 21r; h11pm-3am Mon-Wed, to 5am Thu-Sat)

This small and edgy Santa Croce club lures an international crowd with its music theme nights – loads of 1960s, hip-hop, alternative rock; all sounds in fact.

BambooCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %339 4298764; www.bambooloungeclub.com; Via Giuseppe Verdi 59r; h7pm-4am Fri, Sat & Mon, to 3am Thu)

A hipster crowd looks beautiful in this Santa Croce lounge and dance club with chintzy red seating, steely grey bar and a mix of hip-hop and R&B on the turntable. Dress up and look good to get in. (The dress code, if it helps, is 'smart, casual, sexy, chic'.)

Lion's FountainIRISH PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 234 44 12; www.thelionsfountain.com; Borgo degli Albizi 34r; h10am-3am)

If you have the urge to hear more English than Italian – or to hear local bands play for that matter – this is the place. On a pretty pedestrian square, Florence's busiest Irish pub buzzes in summer when the beer-loving crowd spills across most of the square. Live music and a canary-yellow food 'truck' serving burgers, nachos, clubs, wings and brunch (€5 to €10).

Oltrarno

oMad Souls & SpiritsCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 627 16 21; www.facebook.com/madsoulsandspirits; Borgo San Frediano 38r; h6pm-2am Thu-Sun, to midnight Mon & Wed; W)

At this bar of the moment, cult alchemists Neri Fantechi and Julian Biondi woo a discerning fashionable crowd with their expertly crafted cocktails, served in a tiny aqua-green and red-brick space that couldn't be more spartan. A potted cactus decorates each scrubbed wood table and the humorous cocktail menu is the height of irreverence. Check the 'Daily Madness' blackboard for wild 'n' wacky specials.

oLe Volpi e l'UvaWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 239 81 32; www.levolpieluva.com; Piazza dei Rossi 1; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat)

This unassuming wine bar, hidden away by Chiesa di Santa Felicità, remains as appealing as the day it opened over a decade ago. Its food and wine pairings are first class – taste and buy boutique wines by small producers from all over Italy, matched perfectly with cheeses, cold meats and the best crostini in town. Wine-tasting classes too.

oEnoteca Pitti Gola e CantinaWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 27 04; www.pittigolaecantina.com; Piazza dei Pitti 16; h1pm-midnight Wed-Mon)

Wine lovers won't do better than this serious wine bar opposite Palazzo Pitti, run with passion and humour by charismatic trio Edoardo, Manuele and Zeno – don't be surprised if they share a glass with you over wine talk. Floor-to-ceiling shelves of expertly curated, small-production Tuscan and Italian wines fill the tiny bar, and casual dining (excellent cured meats and pasta fatta in casa; ie homemade) is around a handful of marble-topped tables.

oRasputinCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 03 99; www.facebook.com/rasputinfirenze; Borgo Tegolaio 21r; h8pm-2am)

The 'secret' speakeasy everyone knows about, it has no sign outside: disguised as a chapel of sorts, look for the tiny entrance with two-seat wooden pew, crucifix on the wall, vintage pics and tea lights flickering in the doorway. Inside, it's back to the 1930s with period furnishings, an exclusive vibe and bar staff mixing Prohibition-era cocktails. Reservations (phone or Facebook page) recommended.

oIl SantinoWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 230 28 20; Via di Santo Spirito 60r; h12.30-11pm)

Kid sister to top-notch restaurant Il Santo Bevitore two doors down the street, this intimate wine bar with exposed stone walls and marble bar is a stylish spot for pairing cured meats, cheeses and Tuscan staples with a carefully curated selection of wine – many by local producers – and artisan beers.

KawaiiCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 14 00; www.ristorantemomoyama.it; Borgo San Frediano 8r; h6pm-1am)

Head to this smart new Japanese cocktail bar for an inventive Blood Meray (tomato juice, Japanese shochu, fresh ginger, soy sauce and wasabi) or one of several creative sake-based fusion cocktails in the company of Japanese tapas. Dress smartly and be prepared to try at least a couple of the 30-odd types of sake, 15 Japanese beers and 15 whiskeys.

VolumeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 238 14 60; www.volumefirenze.com; Piazza Santo Spirito 3r; h8.30am-1.30am)

Armchairs, recycled and upcycled vintage furniture, books to read, jukebox, crepes and a tasty choice of nibbles with coffee or a light lunch give this hybrid cafe-bar-gallery real appeal – all in an old hat-making workshop with tools and wooden moulds strewn around. Watch for various music, art and DJ events and other happenings.

La CitéBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 03 87; www.lacitelibreria.info; Borgo San Frediano 20r; h2pm-2am Mon-Sat, 3pm-2am Sun; W)

A hip cafe-bookshop with an eclectic choice of vintage seating, La Cité makes a wonderful, intimate venue for book readings, after-work drinks and fantastic live music – jazz, swing, world music. Check its Facebook page for the week's events.

Ditta ArtigianaleCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 045 71 63; www.dittaartigianale.it; Via dello Sprone 5r; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W)

The second branch of Florence's premier coffee roaster and gin bar treats its faithful hipster clientele to full-blown dining in a 1950s-styled interior alongside its signature speciality coffees, gin cocktails and laid-back vibe. Think bright geometric-patterned wallpaper, comfy gold and pea-green armchairs, a mezzanine restaurant up top, buzzing ground-floor bar with great cocktails down below, and a tiny street terrace out the back.

Dolce VitaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 45 95; www.dolcevitaflorence.com; Piazza del Carmine 6r; h7pm-1.30am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, closed 2 weeks Aug)

Going strong since the 1980s, this veteran bar with a distinct club vibe is an Oltrarno hot spot for after-work drinks, cocktails and DJ sets. Its chic, design-driven interior gets a new look every month thanks to constantly changing photography and contemporary art exhibitions. In summer, its decked terrace is the place to be seen (shades obligatory). Live bands, too.

3Entertainment

Opera di FirenzeOPERA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 277 93 09; www.operadifirenze.it; Piazzale Vittorio Gui, Viale Fratelli Rosselli 15; hbox office 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Florence's strikingly modern opera house with glittering contemporary geometric facade sits on the green edge of city park Parco delle Cascine. Its three thoughtfully designed and multifunctional concert halls seat an audience of 5000 and play host to the springtime Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

BEST SOUVENIRS

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 62 76; www.smnovella.it; Via della Scala 16; h9.30am-8pm) Herbal remedies and beauty products in a pharmacy from 1612.

Il Papiro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 65 93; http://ilpapirofirenze.eu/en/; Via Porta Rosso 76; h10am-7pm) Florence's signature, hand-marbled paper.

Clet Hacked street signs: postcards, stickers, limited editions or the real thing.

Lorenzo Villoresi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 234 11 87; www.lorenzovilloresi.it; Via de' Bardi 14; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Fragrances of Tuscany by Florence's master perfumer.

Mio Concept Nifty homeware and fashion accessories, many by local designers, to take home.

7Shopping

Tacky mass-produced souvenirs (boxer shorts emblazoned with David's packet) are everywhere, not least at city market Mercato Nuovo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Mercato Nuovo; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat), awash with cheap imported handbags and other leather goods. But for serious shoppers keen to delve into a city synonymous with craftsmanship since medieval times, there are plenty of workshops and boutiques to visit.

oBenheartFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 046 26 38; www.benheart.it; Via dei Cimatori 25r; h10am-8pm)

The flagship store of Benheart, this gorgeous shop showcases the handmade leather designs – shoes, jackets, belts and bags for men and women – of local superstar Ben, a young Florentine fashion designer who set up the business with Florentine schoolmate Matteo after undergoing a heart transplant. The pair swore that if Ben survived, they'd go it alone – which they did with huge success.

The shoes here are to die for – double-lined with soft buffalo leather and stitched before being dyed with natural pigments – and start at €190.

o&CoARTS & CRAFTS

(And Company; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 99 73; www.andcompanyshop.com; Via Maggio 51r; h10.30am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)

Souvenir shopping at its best! This Pandora's box of beautiful objects is the love child of Florence-born, British-raised calligrapher and graphic designer Betty Soldi and her vintage-loving husband, Matteo Perduca. Their extraordinary boutique showcases Betty's customised cards, decorative paper products, upcycled homewares and custom fragrances alongside work by other designers (including super-chic leather-printed accessories by Danish design company Edition Poshette).

oObsequiumWINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 68 49; www.obsequium.it; Borgo San Jacopo 17/39; h10am-10pm Mon, to 9pm Tue & Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, noon-midnight Sun)

Tuscan wines, wine accessories and gourmet foods, including truffles, in one of the city's finest wine shops – on the ground floor of one of Florence's best-preserved medieval towers to boot. Not sure which wine to buy? Linger over a glass or indulge in a three-wine tasting with (€20 to €40) or without (€15 to €30) an accompanying taglieri (board) of mixed cheese and salami.

oLorenzo PerroneART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %340 274402; www.libribianchi.info; Borgo Tegolaio 59r; hhours vary)

Every book tells a different story in this absolutely fascinating artist's workshop, home to Milan-born Lorenzo Perrone who creates snow-white Libri Bianchi (White Books) – aka sublime book sculptures – out of plaster, glue, acrylic and various upcycled objects. His working hours are, somewhat predictably, erratic; call ahead.

oAquaflorCOSMETICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 234 34 71; www.florenceparfum.com; Borgo Santa Croce 6; h10am-7pm)

This elegant Santa Croce perfumery in a vaulted 15th-century palazzo exudes romance and exoticism. Artisan scents are crafted here with tremendous care and precision by master perfumer Sileno Cheloni, who works with precious essences from all over the world, including Florentine iris. Organic soaps, cosmetics and body-care products make equally lovely gifts to take back home.

oStreet DoingFASHION, VINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 538 13 34; www.streetdoingvintage.it; Via dei Servi 88r; h2.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

Vintage couture for men and women is what this extraordinary rabbit warren of a boutique – surely the city's largest collection of vintage – is about. Carefully curated garments and acessories are in excellent condition and feature all the top Italian designers: beaded 1950s Gucci clutch bags, floral 1960s Pucci dresses, Valentino shades from every decade. Fashionistas, this is heaven.

Aprosio & CoACCESSORIES, JEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 01 27; www.aprosio.it; Via del Moro 75-77r; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-7.30pm Sat)

Ornella Aprosio fashions teeny-tiny glass and crystal beads into dazzling pieces of jewellery, hair accessories, animal-shaped brooches, handbags, even glass-flecked cashmere. It is all quite magical.

GreviFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 26 41 39; www.grevi.it; Via della Spada 11-13r; h10am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat)

It was a hat made by Siena milliner Grevi that actress Cher wore in the film Tea with Mussolini (1999); ditto Maggie Smith in My House in Umbria (2003). So if you want to shop like a star for a hat by Grevi, this hopelessly romantic boutique is the address. Hats range in price from €30 to possibly unaffordable.

BjørkFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %333 9795839; www.bjorkflorence.com; Via della Sprone 25r; h2.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

Cutting-edge fashion plus 'Zines, books, magazines' is what this trendy concept store, incongruously wedged between tatty old artisan workshops on an Oltrarno backstreet, sells. It is the creation of well-travelled Florentine and fashionista Filippo Anzaione, whose taste in Italian and other contemporary European designers is impeccable.

EatalyFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 015 36 01; www.eataly.net; Via de' Martelli 22r; h10am-10.30pm; W)

Eataly is a one-stop food shop for everything Tuscan. Peruse beautifully arranged aisles laden with oils, conserved vegetables, pasta, rice, biscuits and so on. There are fresh bakery and deli counters, fridges laden with seemingly every cheese under the Italian sun and a coffee bar with outdoor seating. Many products are local and/or organic; most are by small producers.

Upstairs is a wine cellar with 600 labels, a cooking school, summer terrace and the epicurean Osteria di Sopra, serving lunch and dinner.

PineiderARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 46 56; www.pineider.com; Piazza de’ Rucellai 4-7r; h10am-7pm)

Stendhal, Byron, Shelley and Dickens are among the literary luminaries who have chosen to purchase top-quality stationery from this company.

Officine NoraJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.officinenora.it; Via dei Preti 2-4; h11am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri)

Once a mechanic’s shop, this seriously cool workspace for contemporary jewellery-makers brings Florence’s rich history of expert goldsmithing right up to date. The large, luminous loft is filled with well-loved desks used by the resident artisans who make a dazzling array of wearable art. Visitors are welcome to watch them at work and purchase pieces, but it’s best to email or call in advance.

DESIGNER OUTLET MALLS

MallFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.themall.it; Via Europa 8, Leccio Reggello; h10am-7pm, to 8pm Jun-Aug)

Find this busy designer outlet 35km from Florence; buses (adult single/return €7/13) leave from the SITA bus station.

Barberino Designer OutletFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 84 21 61; www.mcarthurglen.it; Via Meucci, Barberino di Mugello; h10am-8pm)

Previous season's collections by D&G, Prada, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni et al at discounted prices, 40km north of Florence. A shuttle bus (adult single/return €8/15, 30 minutes) departs from Piazza della Stazione 44 (in front of Zoppini) two to four times daily. Check seasonal schedules online.

8Information

Emergency

Police StationPOLICE

(Questura; GOOGLE MAP ; %055 4 97 71, English-language service 055 497 72 68; http://questure.poliziadistato.it; Via Zara 2; h24hr daily, English-language service 9am-2pm Mon-Fri)

Should you have a theft or other unfortunate incident to report, the best time to visit the city's police station is between 9am and 2pm weekdays when the foreign-language service – meaning someone speaks English – kicks in.

Medical Services

24-Hour PharmacyPHARMACY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 67 61; Stazione di Santa Maria Novella; h24hr)

Nonstop pharmacy inside Florence's central train station; at least one member of staff usually speaks English.

Dr Stephen Kerr: Medical ServiceDOCTOR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %335-836 16 82, 055 28 80 55; www.dr-kerr.com; Piazza Mercato Nuovo 1; h3-5pm Mon-Fri, or by appointment 9am-3pm Mon-Fri)

Resident British doctor.

HospitalHOSPITAL

(Ospedale di Santa Maria Nuova; GOOGLE MAP ; %055 6 93 81; www.asf.toscana.it; Piazza di Santa Maria Nuova 1; h24hr)

Tourist Information

Airport Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 31 58 74; www.firenzeturismo.it; Florence Airport, Via del Termine 11; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

Infopoint Bigallo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 28 84 96; www.firenzeturismo.it; Piazza San Giovanni 1; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 21 22 45; www.firenzeturismo.it; Piazza della Stazione 4; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun)

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %055 29 08 32; www.firenzeturismo.it; Via Cavour 1r; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

Air

Also known as Amerigo Vespucci or Peretola airport, Florence airport (Aeroporto Amerigo Vespucci; GOOGLE MAP ; %055 3 06 15, 055 306 18 30; www.aeroporto.firenze.it; Via del Termine 11) is 5km northwest of the city centre and is served by both domestic and European flights.

Bus

Services from the bus station (Autostazione Busitalia-Sita Nord; GOOGLE MAP ; %800 373760; Via Santa Caterina da Siena 17r; h5.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 6am-8pm Sun), just west of Piazza della Stazione, are limited; the train is better. Destinations operated by Sitabus (www.sitabus.it) include the following:

Siena (€7.80, 1¼ hours, at least hourly)

Greve in Chianti (€4.20, one hour, hourly)

Car & Motorcycle

Florence is connected by the A1 northwards to Bologna and Milan, and southwards to Rome and Naples. The Autostrada del Mare (A11) links Florence with Pistoia, Lucca, Pisa and the coast, but most locals use the FI-PI-LI – a superstrada (dual carriageway, hence no tolls); look for blue signs saying FI-PI-LI (as in Firenze-Pisa-Livorno). Another dual carriageway, the S2, links Florence with Siena. The much more picturesque SS67 connects the city with Pisa to the west, and Forli and Ravenna to the east.

Train

Florence's central train station is Stazione di Santa Maria Novella ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza della Stazione). The left-luggage counter (Deposito Bagagliamano; GOOGLE MAP ; Stazione di Santa Maria Novella; 1st 5hr €6, then per hour €0.90; h6am-11pm) is located on platform 16. Tickets for all trains are sold in the main ticketing hall, but skip the permanently long queue by buying tickets from the touch-screen automatic ticket-vending machines; they have an English option and accept cash and credit cards.

Florence is on the Rome–Milan line. Services include the following:

Destination	Fare (€)	Time	Frequency
Bologna	26	35-40min	every 15 to 30 minutes
Lucca	7.50	1½hr-1¾hr	twice hourly
Milan	54-64	1¾hr-2hr	at least hourly
Pisa	8.40	45min-1hr	every 15 minutes
Pistoia	4.40	45min-1hr	every 10 minutes
Rome	45-55	1¾hr-4¼hr	at least twice hourly
Venice	49-54	2hr	at least hourly

8Getting Around

To/from the Airports

Bus

ATAF operates a Volainbus (%800 373760; www.fsbusitalia.it) shuttle (single/return €6/10, 30 minutes) between Florence airport and Florence bus station every 30 minutes between 6am and 8.30pm, then hourly from 8.30pm until 11.30pm (from 5.30am to 11.45pm from the airport).

Taxi

A taxi between Florence airport and the city centre costs a flat rate of €20 (€24 on Sundays and holidays, €25.30 between 10pm and 6am), plus €1 per bag and €1 supplement for fourth passenger. Exit the terminal building, bear right and you'll come to the taxi rank.

Train

Regular trains link Florence's Stazione di Santa Maria Novella with Pisa's central train station, Pisa Centrale (€9.70, 1½ hours, at least hourly from 4.30am to 10.25pm), from fully automated, super-speedy PisaMover trains (€2.70, five minutes, every five minutes from 6am to midnight) continuing to Pisa International Airport.

Central Tuscany

When people imagine classic Tuscan countryside, they usually conjure up images of central Tuscany. But there's more to this popular tourist region than gently rolling hills, sun-kissed vineyards and artistically planted avenues of cypress tress. The real gems are the historic towns and cities, most of which are medieval and Renaissance time capsules magically transported to the modern day.

Siena

Pop 53,900

Siena is a city where the architecture soars, as do the souls of many of its visitors. Effectively a giant, open-air museum celebrating the Gothic, Siena has spiritual and secular monuments that have retained both their medieval forms and their extraordinary art collections, providing the visitor with plenty to marvel at. The city's historic contrade (districts) are marvellous too, being as close-knit and colourful today as they were in the 17th century, when their world-famous horse race, the Palio, was inaugurated. And within each contrada lie vibrant streets populated with artisanal boutiques, sweet-smelling pasticcerie (pastry shops) and tempting restaurants. It's a feast for the senses and an essential stop on every Tuscan itinerary.

Siena

1Top Sights

1DuomoC6

2Libreria PiccolominiC6

3Museale Santa Maria della ScalaC6

4Museo CivicoD5

5Piazza del CampoD5

6Pinacoteca NazionaleD7

1Sights

7Battistero di San GiovanniC5

8CriptaD5

9Fonte GaiaD5

10Fortezza MediceaA3

11Museo dell'OperaD6

12Orto BotanicoD7

13Orto de' PecciE7

14Palazzo Chigi SaraciniD6

Palazzo PubblicoD5

15Panorama del FacciatoneD6

16Porta CamolliaB1

17Porta del CieloC6

18Torre del MangiaE5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Siena Francigena Walking TourB1

19Siena Urban RunningB1

4Sleeping

20Albergo BerniniC4

21Antica Residenza CicognaD4

22Campo Regio RelaisC4

23Hotel Alma DomusC4

24Hotel AthenaB7

25Hotel Palazzetto RossoD4

26Ostello Casa delle BalieC6

27Pensione Palazzo RavizzaC7

5Eating

28Enoteca I TerziD5

29La Taverna di San GiuseppeD7

30La Vecchia LatteriaD6

31MorbidiD4

32Osteria Boccon del PreteD6

33Osteria Il VinaioB1

34Osteria la ChiaccheraC4

35Ristorante All'Orto de' PecciE7

36Ristorante EnzoC2

37Tre CristiE4

6Drinking & Nightlife

38Cacio e PereD4

39Caffè FiorellaD5

40Enoteca ItalianaB3

41Mad in ItalyB1

42UnTUBOE5

7Shopping

43Il MagnificoD5

44Il MaratonetaB1

1Sights

oPiazza del CampoSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Popularly known as 'Il Campo', this sloping piazza has been Siena's civic and social centre since being staked out by the ruling Consiglio dei Nove (Council of Nine) in the mid-12th century. Built on the site of a Roman marketplace, its paving is divided into nine sectors representing the number of members of the consiglio and these days acts as a carpet on which young locals meet and relax. The cafes around its perimeter are the most popular coffee and aperitivi (pre-dinner drinks) spots in town.

Palazzo PubblicoHISTORIC BUILDING

(Palazzo Comunale; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Campo)

Built to demonstrate the enormous wealth, proud independence and secular nature of Siena, this 14th-century Gothic masterpiece is the visual focal point of the Campo, itself the true heart of the city. Architecturally clever (notice how its concave facade mirrors the opposing convex curve) it has always housed the city's administration and been used as a cultural venue. Its distinctive bell tower, the Torre del Mangia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 29 23 43; www.enjoysiena.it; Palazzo Pubblico, Piazza del Campo 1; €10; h10am-6.15pm summer, to 3.15pm winter), provides magnificent views to those who brave the steep climb to the top.

oMuseo CivicoMUSEUM

(Civic Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 29 22 32; Palazzo Pubblico, Piazza del Campo 1; adult/reduced €9/8; h10am-6.15pm summer, to 5.15pm winter)

Entered via the Palazzo Pubblico's Cortile del Podestà (Courtyard of the Podestà), this wonderful museum showcases rooms richly frescoed by artists of the Sienese school. Commissioned by the city's governing body rather than by the Church, some of the frescoes depict secular subjects – highly unusual at the time. The highlights are two huge frescoes: Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Allegories of Good and Bad Government (c 1338–40) and Simone Martini's celebrated Maestà (Virgin Mary in Majesty; 1315).

oDuomoCATHEDRAL

(Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 00; www.operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza Duomo; summer/winter €4/free, when floor displayed €7; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-6pm Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter)

Consecrated on the former site of a Roman temple in 1179 and constructed over the 13th and 14th centuries, Siena's majestic duomo (cathedral) showcases the talents of many great medieval and Renaissance architects and artists: Giovanni Pisano designed the intricate white, green and red marble facade; Nicola Pisano carved the elaborate pulpit; Pinturicchio painted the frescoes in the extraordinary Libreria Piccolomini (Piccolomini Library; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 00; http://operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza Duomo; summer/winter free/€2; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-6pm Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter); and Michelangelo, Donatello and Gian Lorenzo Bernini all produced sculptures.

Battistero di San GiovanniLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 00; http://operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza San Giovanni; €4; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-6pm Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter)

The Baptistry is lined with 15th-century frescoes and centres around a hexagonal marble font by Jacopo della Quercia, decorated with bronze panels depicting the life of St John the Baptist by artists including Lorenzo Ghiberti (Baptism of Christ; St John in Prison) and Donatello (The Head of John the Baptist Being Presented to Herod).

CriptaCHRISTIAN SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 00; http://operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza San Giovanni; incl audioguide €6; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat & 1.30-6pm Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter)

Remarkably, this vaulted space under the Duomo's pulpit was totally filled with debris in the late 1300s and was only excavated and restored in 1999. Originally functioning as a cathedral entrance and confessional, it was decorated with 180 sq metres of richly coloured 13th-century pintura a secco ('dry' or mural paintings) covering walls, columns, pilasters, capitals and corbels. Fortunately, these managed to survive their ignominious treatment.

Museo dell'OperaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 00; www.operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza Duomo; €8; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat & 1.30-6pm Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter)

The highlight of this repository of artworks that formerly adorned the Duomo is undoubtedly Duccio (di Buoninsegna)'s striking Maestà (1308–11), which was painted on both sides as a screen for the high altar. Duccio portrays the Virgin surrounded by angels, saints and prominent contemporary Sienese citizens; the rear panels (sadly incomplete) show scenes from the Passion of Christ. Entry to the Panorama del Facciatone is included in the entry ticket.

Panorama del FacciatoneTOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 00; http://operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza Duomo; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat & 1.30-6pm Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter)

For an unforgettable view of Siena's unique cityscape, head up the 131-step, narrow corkscrew stairway to walk atop the unfinished facade of the Duomo Nuovo (New Cathedral). Entrance is included in the Museo dell'Opera ticket and the entrance is via one of that museum's upstairs floors.

oMuseale Santa Maria della ScalaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 53 45 71, 0577 53 45 11; www.santamariadellascala.com; Piazza Duomo 1; adult/reduced €9/7; h10am-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun, extended hours in summer)

Built as a hospice for pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena, this huge complex opposite the Duomo dates from the 13th century. Its highlight is the upstairs Pellegrinaio (Pilgrim's Hall), featuring vivid 15th-century frescoes by Lorenzo di Pietro (aka Vecchietta), Priamo della Quercia and Domenico di Bartolo. All laud the good works of the hospital and its patrons; the most evocative is di Bartolo's Il governo degli infermi (Caring for the Sick; 1440–41), which depicts many activities that occurred here.

There's so much to see in the complex that devoting half a day is barely adequate. Don't miss the hugely atmospheric Archaeological Museum set in the basement tunnels; the medieval fienile (hayloft) on level three, which showcases Jacopo della Quercia's original 1419 sculptures from Siena's central Fonte Gaia; and the Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Chapel) of the Chiesa SS Annunziata to the right near the main entrance, which houses di Bartolo's Madonna della Misericordia (1444–45) and a fresco cycle by di Pietro illustrating the Articles of the Creed.

There's an excellent gift shop on site, as well as a pleasant cafe that can be accessed from Piazza Duomo.

oPinacoteca NazionaleGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 11 61; http://pinacotecanazionale.siena.it; Via San Pietro 29; adult/reduced €4/2; h8.15am-7.15pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun & Mon)

An extraordinary collection of Gothic masterpieces from the Sienese school sits inside the once grand, but now sadly dishevelled, 14th-century Palazzo Buonsignori. The highlights are on the 2nd floor, where magnificent works by Guido da Siena, Duccio (di Buoninsegna), Simone Martini, Niccolò di Segna, Lippo Memmi, Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzetti, Bartolo di Fredi, Taddeo di Bartolo and Sano di Pietro are housed.

Palazzo Chigi SaraciniMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %333 9180012, 0577 2 20 91; http://eng.chigiana.it; Via di Città 89; adult/student €7/5; htours 11.30am Mon-Wed & Sat, 11.30am & 4pm Thur & Fri)

Few buildings have pedigrees as splendid as this 13th-century palace. Home of the Piccolomini family (of which Pope Pius II was the most prominent member) during the Renaissance, it was acquired by the powerful Saracini family in the 18th century and inherited a century later by a scion of the wealthy Roman Chigi family. Today it houses the Fondazione Accademia Chigiana and its art-adorned interiors are a testament to the wealth, erudition and taste of the Saracini and Chigi families.

Orto BotanicoGARDENS

(Botanical Garden; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 23 28 77; www.simus.unisi.it; Via Pier Andrea Mattioli 4; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 5pm Mar-Jun, to 4pm Oct-Feb)

The tranquil terraces of this botanical garden, which is spread over 2.5 hectares of the verdant Sant'Agostino Valley, provide a welcome escape from the tourist crowds and gorgeous views across the valley. Owned by the University of Siena, which operates a scientific field here, it features hothouses filled with tropical and subtropical species, a genus terrace, fruit trees and gardens planted with aromatic, medicinal and food plants. In total, over 1000 species are found here. Native and endangered species are also represented.

GATE OF HEAVEN

To enjoy spectacular bird's-eye views of the interior and exterior of Siena's cathedral, buy a ticket for the Porta del Cielo escorted tour up, into and around the building's roof and dome. Tour groups are capped at 18 participants and depart at fixed times throughout the day – purchase your ticket from the office in Santa Maria della Scala. Note that you'll need to arrive at the meeting point at least five minutes before your allocated tour time.

TTours

Centro Guide Turistiche Siena e ProvinciaCULTURAL

(%0577 4 32 73; www.guidesiena.it)

This association of accredited guides offers guaranteed daily departures of a two-hour 'Classic Siena' Walking Tour (adult/child under 12 €20/free) at 11am between April andOctober. This features key historical and cultural landmarks and includes entrance to the Duomo or Cripta. Tours depart from outside the tourist information office in Santa Maria della Scala and are conducted in both Italian and English.

Siena Francigena Walking TourWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 6137678; www.enjoysiena.it; adult/child under 11yr €20/10; h9am early May–late Jun & Sep–mid-Oct)

Introduced in 2017, this three-to-four-hour guided tour (Italian and English) departs from Porta Camollia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Camollia) on the northern edge of the historic centre and follows the medieval pilgrim route for 4km to the Duomo before continuing to Porta Romana. The tour stops to visit the Museale Santa Maria della Scala (ticket price included). Bookings essential.

Siena Urban RunningRUNNING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 42 77; maratoneta.sport@libero.it; Via Camollia 201; run €25; h7.45am Mon, Wed & Fri Jul-Oct)

Guided 90-minute run through the historic centre organised by Il Maratoneta (Maratoneta Sport; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 42 77; maratoneta.sport@libero.it; Via Camollia 201; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) walking and running shop. From November to mid-May there's a two-hour guided run in the early evening on Thursday. Running kits are available for €35.

IL PALIO

Dating from the Middle Ages, this spectacular annual event includes a series of colourful pageants and a wild horse race in Piazza del Campo on 2 July and 16 August. Ten of Siena's 17 contrade (town districts) compete for the coveted palio (silk banner). Each contrada has its own traditions, symbol and colours, plus its own church and palio museum.

From about 5pm on race days, representatives from each contrada parade in historical costume, all bearing their individual banners. For scarcely one exhilarating minute, the 10 horses and their bareback riders tear three times around a temporarily constructed dirt racetrack with a speed and violence that makes spectators' hair stand on end.

The race is held at 7.45pm in July and 7pm in August. Join the crowds in the centre of the Campo at least four hours before the start if you want a place on the rails, but be aware that once there you won't be able to leave for toilet or drink breaks until the race has finished. Alternatively, the cafes in the Campo sell places on their terraces; these cost between €350 and €400 per ticket, and can be booked through the tourist office up to one year in advance.

4Sleeping

Ostello Casa delle BalieHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 6137678; ostellosms@operalaboratori.com; Vicolo di San Girolamo 2; dm €18; aiW)

Siena's historic centre sorely lacks backpacker accommodation, so we were thrilled when this hostel just off Piazza Duomo opened in 2017. Though primarily catering to pilgrims walking the Via Francigena, it also welcomes others – book in advance. Rooms have bunk beds and small lockers (sheets and blankets provided); hot showers cost €0.50. Laundry facilities, but no kitchen or lounge.

Note that daytime check-in is at the Tourist Office in Santa Maria della Scala; the hostel is only staffed between 8pm and 10.30pm.

Hotel Alma DomusHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 41 77; www.hotelalmadomus.it; Via Camporegio 37; s €55, d €90-140; aiW)

Your chance to sleep in a convent: Alma Domus is owned by the Church and is still home to several Dominican nuns. The economy rooms, although comfortable, are styled very simply and aren't as soundproofed as many would like. But the superior ones are lovely, with a stylish decor and modern fittings; many have mini-balconies with uninterrupted Duomo views.

Albergo BerniniPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 90 47; www.albergobernini.com; Via della Sapienza 15; d €85, without bathroom €65; W)

The tiny terrace alone might prompt you to stay at this welcoming, family-run hotel – it sports grandstand views across to the Duomo and is a captivating spot for breakfast (€9) or drinks later in the day. The 10 bedrooms are traditional affairs and only a couple have air-con. Cash payment only.

oPensione Palazzo RavizzaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 04 62; www.palazzoravizza.it; Pian dei Mantellini 34; s €145-230, d €160-295, ste €250-315; paW)

Occupying a Renaissance-era palazzo located in a quiet but convenient corner of Siena, this gorgeous hotel offers rooms perfectly melding heritage features and modern amenities; the best face the large rear garden, which has a panoramic terrace. The breakfast buffet is generous, on-site parking is free and room rates are remarkably reasonable (especially in the low season).

Antica Residenza CicognaB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 56 13; www.anticaresidenzacicogna.it; Via delle Terme 76; s €90, d €110, ste €150; aiW)

You get a true feel for Siena's history in this 13th-century palazzo close to the Campo. Tiled floors, ornate lights and painted ceilings meet tones of yellow ochre and (suitably) burnt sienna. All of the rooms are charming, but we were particularly taken with the Stanza dei Paesaggi, which is named after the frescoed landscapes that decorate it.

Hotel ItaliaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 42 48; www.hotelitalia-siena.it; Viale Cavour 67; s €70-122, d €85-160, ste €150-190; aiW#)

Close to the busy shopping and eating strip of Via Camollia, this well-priced modern hotel offers a range of accommodation, including worn-but-comfortable standard rooms, renovated superior rooms and swish executive suites. Parking costs €10 per night, the breakfast buffet is generous and guests can use the swimming pool at a nearby hotel in the same group.

Hotel AthenaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 63 13; www.hotelathena.com; Via Paolo Mascagni 55; s €54-380, d €60-420; paW#)

Rooms at this friendly and efficiently run hotel have old-fashioned but pleasant furnishings and plenty of amenities, but vary greatly in size. Opt for a deluxe or executive type if possible, as these are spacious and have wonderful views of cityscapes meeting the fields. There's an in-house restaurant and a summer-only terrace bar overlooking the Tuscan hills.

oCampo Regio RelaisBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 22 20 73; www.camporegio.com; Via della Sapienza 25; r €190-450; hmid-Mar–early Jan; aW)

Siena's most charming boutique hotel has only six rooms, each individually decorated and luxuriously equipped (opt for deluxe room 5, which has a private terrace). An excellent breakfast is served in the sumptuously decorated lounge or on the main terrace, which has a sensational view across the Fontebranda Valley and across to the Torre del Mangia and the Duomo.

Hotel Palazzetto RossoDESIGN HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 23 61 97; www.palazzettorosso.com; Via dei Rossi 38-42; r €175-270, ste €300-420; paiW#)

Ooh la la! This French-owned hotel occupies a magnificent 13th-century building and is Siena's only hip hotel, replete with designer furniture and fittings. Nine well-sized rooms have good beds with quality linen, satellite TV and kettle (note that the ubiquitous shower-nozzle-over-bathtub won't suit everyone). There's a chic breakfast room and bar, attentive service and valet parking (€30 per day).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ORTO DE'PECCI

Operated by a social cooperative that gives support and employment to people suffering social, intellectual or physical disadvantage, the urban oasis Orto de'Pecci is home to public green spaces that are perfect for picnics or an afternoon snooze (locals can often be found here, hiding from the crowds). There's also a small vineyard with clones of medieval vines, a cooperative organic farm that supplies the on-site restaurant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 22 22 01; www.ortodepecci.it; Via di Porta Giustizia, Orto de' Pecci; pizza €5-8, meals €20; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun) with fruit and vegetables, plenty of animals (geese, goats, ducks and donkeys) and a scattering of site-specific contemporary artworks.

5Eating

oLa Vecchia LatteriaGELATO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 05 76 38; Via San Pietro 10; gelato €2-3.50; hnoon-8pm)

Sauntering through Siena's historic centre is always more fun with a gelato in hand. Just ask one of the many locals who are regular customers at this gelateria artigianale (maker of handmade gelato) near the Pinacoteca Nazionale. Using quality produce, owners Fabio and Francesco concoct and serve fruity fresh or decadently creamy iced treats – choose from gelato or frozen yoghurt.

MorbidiDELI€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 02 68; www.morbidi.com; Via Banchi di Sopra 75; lunch/aperitivo buffet €12/from €7; h8am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

A classy deli famed for its top-quality produce, Morbidi's excellent-value basement lunch buffet (€12; 12.15pm to 2.30pm Monday to Saturday) allows you to choose from freshly prepared antipasti, salads, risotto, pasta and dessert. Bottled water is supplied, wine and coffee cost extra. Buy your ticket upstairs before heading down. The cost of the aperitivo buffet (6pm to 10pm Friday and Saturday) depends on your choice of drink.

oOsteria Il VinaioTUSCAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 96 15; Via Camollia 167; antipasti €6-13, pasta €6-7; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat)

Wine bars are thin on the ground here in Siena, so it's not surprising that Bobbe and Davide's neighbourhood osteria is so popular. Join the multi-generational local regulars for a bowl of pasta or your choice from the generous antipasto display, washed down with a glass or two of eminently quaffable house wine.

Osteria la ChiaccheraTUSCAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 06 31; www.osterialachiacchera.it; Costa di San Antonio 4; €18; h12.20-2.30 & 7-10pm Wed-Mon)

Forgoing fuss, this unassuming osteria has a limited number of shared tables but a lot of charm. The menu (Italian only) offers hearty local dishes – crostini and pici with various sauces are always on offer, as are dishes with fagioli (white beans) – and these are enjoyed with the cheap house wine. Book ahead to be sure of snaffling a spot.

Ristorante EnzoTUSCAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 12 77; www.daenzo.net; Via Camollia 49; meals €40; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun)

The epitome of old-fashioned Sienese dining, Da Enzo, as it is popularly called, welcomes guests with a complimentary glass of prosecco and follows up with traditional dishes made with skill and care. There's fish on the menu, but most locals head here for the handmade pasta and meat dishes. Consider opting for one of the traditional menus (€28 to €35).

Enoteca I TerziTUSCAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 43 29; www.enotecaiterzi.it; Via dei Termini 7; meals €35; h11am-3pm & 6.30pm-1am Mon-Sat, shorter hours in winter)

Close to the Campo but off the well-beaten tourist trail, this enoteca (wine bar) is located in a vaulted medieval building but has a contemporary feel. It's popular with sophisticated locals, who linger over working lunches, aperitivi sessions and slow-paced dinners featuring Tuscan salumi (cured meats), delicate handmade pasta, grilled meats and wonderful wines (many available by the glass).

Osteria Boccon del PreteMODERN ITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 03 88; Via San Pietro 17; meals €25; h12.15-3pm & 7.15-10pm Mon-Sat)

As popular with locals as it is with tourists, this casual place near the Pinacoteca Nazionale serves Tuscan dishes with a modern twist. The interior features a rich red colour scheme and modern art – very different to most of the city's eateries.

oLa Taverna di San GiuseppeTUSCAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 4 22 86; www.tavernasangiuseppe.it; Via Dupré 132; meals €45; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)

Any restaurant specialising in beef, truffles and porcini mushrooms attracts our immediate attention, but not all deliver on their promise. Fortunately, this one does. A favoured venue for locals celebrating important occasions, it offers excellent food, an impressive wine list with plenty of local, regional and international choices, a convivial traditional atmosphere and efficient service. Love it.

oTre CristiSEAFOOD€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0577 28 06 08; www.trecristi.com; Vicolo di Provenzano 1-7; meals €45, tasting menus €40-65; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat)

Seafood restaurants are thin on the ground in this meat-obsessed region, so the long existence of Tre Cristi (it's been around since 1830) should be heartily celebrated. The menu here is as elegant as the decor, and touches such as a complimentary glass of prosecco at the start of the meal add to the experience. Exemplary service.