Parco del Conero

Only minutes from Ancona but a world unto itself, Parco del Conero (aka Parco Regionale del Conero) is stunning, with limestone cliffs razoring above the cobalt blue Adriatic, and crescent-shaped, white pebble bays backed by fragrant woods of pine, oak, beech, broom and oleander trees. Walking trails thread through the 60 sq km park, which is a conservation area. Remarkably still off the radar for many travellers, the park retains a peaceful, unspoilt air found nowhere else along Le Marche's coastline. Its highest peak is 572m Monte Conero, which takes a spectacular nosedive into the sea. The vineyards that taper down its slopes produce the excellent, full-bodied Rosso Conero red wine.

Parco del Conero encompasses the cliff-backed seaside resorts of Portonovo, Sirolo and Numana, all of which make fine bases for exploring. Boat trips from Portonovo and Sirolo are the best way to cove- or beach-hop.

4Sleeping

Camping InternazionaleCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %071 933 08 84; www.campinginternazionale.com; Via San Michele 10, Sirolo; camping 2 people, car & tent €22-50, for sea view add €4-10, bungalows €50-200; hmid-May–mid-Sep; iWs)

Shaded in the trees just a few metres from the scenic beaches below Sirolo, this full-service campground is replete with swimming pool, pizzeria, bar, grocery store and children's club with plenty of activities to keep the little ones amused. The views from here – and the two beaches above which it sits – are spectacular.

oAcanto Country HouseGUESTHOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %071 933 11 95; www.acantocountryhouse.com; Via Ancarano 18, Sirolo; s €70, d €90-140, ste €100-150; paWs)

Set back from Sirolo's beaches and surrounded by cornfields, meadows and olive groves, this converted farmhouse is a gorgeous country escape, taking in the full sweep of the coast. Named after flowers like peony and rose, rooms have been designed with the utmost attention to detail, with gleaming wood floors, exposed stone, embroidered bedspreads and two with steamroom showers.

5Eating

oRistorante da GiacchettiSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %071 80 13 84; www.ristorantedagiacchetti.it; Via Portonovo 171, Portonovo; meals €30-50; h12.30-3pm & 8-10pm Apr-Oct)

The best of Portonovo's wildly popular seaside restaurants, Giacchetti has been dishing up the freshest of Marche's sea treasures since 1959. Hand-harvested mussels and raguse (sea snails), doused in a secret spicy sauce, are obvious starting points, paired with a long list of Marche whites like verdicchio. Secondi specialities include stoccafisso all'anconetana (stockfish stew) and monkfish for two.

La TorreSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %071 933 07 47; www.latorrenumana.it; Via la Torre 1, Numana; meals €30-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-3pm Sun)

Floor-to-ceiling glass walls maximise the wraparound sea views from this sleek, industrial-chic restaurant, with bare wood floors, crisp white tablecloths and exposed silver pipework. Go for artistically presented antipasti and mains, mostly – surprise, surprise – with a seafood slant. It's hugely popular with the locals.

8Information

Centro VisiteTOURIST INFORMATION

(Visitor Centre; GOOGLE MAP ; %071 933 11 61; www.parcodelconero.org; Via Peschiera 30a, Sirolo)

The park's new Visitor Centre is scheduled to open in 2017.

8Getting There & Away

Conero buses to Portonovo (€1.25, ½ hour, 13 daily) from Ancona operate in the summer from Ancona's train station, but the area is much easier to explore with your own set of wheels.

Urbino

Pop 15,500

Raphael's Renaissance 'hood, the vibrant university town of Urbino is often the first stop on a trip to Le Marche, and understandably so. The patriarch of the Montefeltro family, Duca Federico da Montefeltro, created the hippest art scene of the 15th century here, gathering the great artists, architects and scholars of his day to create a sort of think tank. The town's splendour was made official by Unesco, which deemed the entire city centre a World Heritage Site in 1998.

Urbino

1Sights

1Casa della PoesiaC3

2Casa Natale di RaffaelloB2

3Duomo di UrbinoC3

Galleria Nazionale delle MarcheC3

Museo Diocesano AlbaniC3

4Oratorio di San GiovanniB2

5Palazzo DucaleC3

4Sleeping

6Albergo ItaliaB3

7B&B AlbornozB1

5Eating

8Antica Osteria da la StellaB2

9La Trattoria del LeoneC2

10Sorbetto del DucaB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Tartufi Antiche BontàB2

7Shopping

12Raffaello DegusteriaB2

1Sights

Palazzo DucalePALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palazzoducaleurbino.it; Piazza del Rinascimento 13; h8.30am-7.15pm Tue-Sun, to 2pm Mon)

A microcosm of Renaissance architecture, art and history, the Palazzo Ducale contains the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, housed within Federico da Montefeltro's palace. The duke enlisted the foremost artists and architects of the age to create this whimsically turreted masterpiece. From Corso Garibaldi you get the best view of the complex, with its unusual Facciata dei Torricini, a 3-storey loggia in the form of a triumphal arch, flanked by circular towers.

Galleria Nazionale delle MarcheMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gallerianazionalemarche.it; Piazza Duca Federico; adult/reduced €6.50/4; h8.30am-7.15pm Tue-Sun, to 2pm Mon)

The Galleria Nazionale delle Marche lodges in the striking Renaissance Palazzo Ducale. A monumental staircase, one of Italy's first, leads to the piano nobile (literally 'noble floor') and the Ducal Apartments. Piero della Francesca was one of the artists employed by the duke, and his work, The Flagellation, adorns the duke's library. The collection also includes a large number of drawings by Federico Barocci, as well as stunning Renaissance works by Raphael, Titian and Signorelli.

Duomo di UrbinoCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Duca Federico; h7.30am-1pm & 2-8pm)

Rebuilt in the early 19th century in neoclassical style, the interior of Urbino's duomo commands much greater interest than its austere facade. Particularly memorable is Federico Barocci's Last Supper. The basilica's Museo Diocesano Albani ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museodiocesanourbino.it; Piazza Pascoli 1; €3.50; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Wed-Mon) is still operating and contains religious artefacts, vestments and more paintings, including Andrea da Bologna's Madonna del Latte (Madonna Breastfeeding).

Earthquake damage, however, has closed the cathedral to visits for what could be as long as through 2018.

Casa Natale di RaffaelloMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palazzoducaleurbino.it; Via Raffaello 57; €3.50; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mar-Oct, 9am-2pm Nov-Feb)

North of the Piazza della Repubblica you'll find the 15th-century house where Raphael was born in 1483 and spent his first 16 years. On the 1st floor is possibly one of Raphael's first frescoes, a Madonna with child. The museum takes a touching look at Raphael's family life.

Oratorio di San GiovanniCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Barocci 31; €2.50; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)

This 14th-century church features brightly coloured frescoes by Lorenzo and Giacomo Salimbeni.

Casa della PoesiaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.casadellapoesiaurbino.blogspot.it; Palazzi Odasi, Via Valerio 1; h3-7pm Mon & Thu, 9am-1pm Wed & Fri, 10.30am-6.30pm Sat & Sun)F

South of the piazza, this brand-new cultural space in the Renaissance Palazzo Odasi is dedicated to expat American poet Ezra Pound, a seminal figure in the early modernism movement (and a controversial proponent of Mussolini and Hitler). Centered on a lovely arcaded inner courtyard, it hosts everything from art and photography exhibitions to readings and talks.

zFestivals & Events

The city swings into summer at the Urbino Jazz Festival in June, with performances held all over town, followed by the International Festival of Ancient Music in July and the Festa dell'Aquilone, a kite festival, on the first weekend in September.

Festa dell'DucaCULTURAL

(www.urbinofestadelduca.it; h2nd or 3rd Sun Aug)

Urbino time-travels back to the Middle Ages, with medieval fun hitting the streets in the shape of a costumed procession and the re-enactment of a tournament on horseback.

4Sleeping

Urbino charges a tourist tax ranging from €1.50 to €2.50 (depending on number of stars) per person per night for up to five nights. The town teams with hotels, alberghi and B&Bs in the historic centre, and agriturismo farm stays in the surrounding countryside. Inside or out? That is the question in Urbino.

oLocanda della Valle NuovaFARMSTAY€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 33 03 03; www.vallenuova.it; La Cappella 14, Sagrata di Fermignano; d €56, apt €90-150, half-board per person €30; hlate May-early Nov; piWs)S

What a delight this organic farm is, with bright, immaculate rooms and lovely, soothing views across wooded hills to the mountains beyond. Whether you want to rustle up an Italian feast with a cookery class, go horse riding or learn basket-weaving, friendly owner Giulia will oblige. She is also a terrific cook and dinners are a feast of homegrown goodies.

B&B AlbornozB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 2987897; www.bbalbornoz.com; Via dei Maceri 23; s/d €50/80; W)

Wedged in a quiet old-town corner, this B&B has boutique flavour for a pinch of the price. A spiral staircase links three studios full of designer touches, with murals, funky lighting and bold artworks, from the monochromatic 'You and Me' to the floral, lilac-kissed romance of 'Osaka'. Rain-style showers are dreamy. All come with kitchenettes and espresso machines.

Tenuta Santi Giacomo e FilippoAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 58 03 05; www.tenutasantigiacomoefilippo.it; Via San Giacomo in Foglia 7, Pantiere; s €79-149, d €99-189, ste €109-209, meals €30-40; paWs)S

And relax... You can't help but unwind the minute you check into this gorgeous country abode, surrounded by vineyards and gardens fragrant with flowers and herbs. Spread across six stylishly converted stone farm buildings, the wood-floored rooms are individually designed – some are decorated in soothing pastels with Laura Ashley fabrics, others are slick and contemporary.

Albergo ItaliaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 27 01; www.albergo-italia-urbino.it; Corso Garibaldi 32; s €50-75, d €85-130; aiW)

Set behind the Palazzo Ducale, the Italia could not be better positioned. Modern and well designed, the shuttered townhouse is restfully quiet and staff are genuinely friendly. In warmer months, take breakfast on the balcony.

5Eating & Drinking

Urbino's ubiquitous local speciality is crescia sfogliata. Similar to Emilia-Romagna's piadina (flat bread), the urbinate version is enhanced with eggs, salt and pepper, then stuffed with all sorts of goodness, of which the most common combo is prosciutto and local pecorino cheese.

Sorbetto del DucaGELATO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/sorbettodelDuca; Via Raffaello 1; small/medium/large €2.20/2.70/3.20; h11.30am-midnight)

Urbino's best gelateria is set on prime Piazza della Repubblica real estate. The seasonally alternating flavour of the house flips between pomegranate and fig, but we fell hard for the crema di nocciole bianca (white hazelnut cream).

La Trattoria del LeoneTRATTORIA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 32 98 94; www.latrattoriadelleone.it; Via Battisti 5; meals €20-25; h12.30-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)S

This homey, rustic basement trattoria raids Le Marche's larder for the best regional produce. Olive all'ascolana (stuffed olives fried in breadcrumbs) whet appetites for dishes such as ravioli with the local Casciotta d'Urbino cheese and baked rabbit with wild fennel and olives, with true depth of flavour. Save an inch for the excellent chocolate cake.

oAntica Osteria da la StellaOSTERIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 32 02 28; www.anticaosteriadalastella.com; Via Santa Margherita 1; meals €30-40; h12.30-2.15pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 7.30-10.30pm Mon; W)

Duck down a quiet side street to this rustically elegant, beamed 15th-century inn once patronised by the likes of Piero della Francesca. Legendary in these parts, Osteria de la Stella puts its own inventive twist on seasonal food. Every dish pops with flavour and the strozzapreti (tubular pasta) with asparagus, artichokes, sausage and tomatoes topped with toasted almonds is worth a trip.

Caffè RaffaelloWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.raffaellodegusteria.it; Via Raffaello 41; wines by the glass €2.50-4.50; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat; W)

A mixed crowd of students and middle-aged urbanites spill out into Via Raffaello during Urbino's best wine bar's nightly aperitivo. There's an ever-changing, superbly curated selection of marchigiana wines by the glass; and the outdoor tables a tad down the street are in prime Piazza della Repubblica people-watching position.

7Shopping

oRaffaello DegusteriaFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.raffaellodegusteria.it; Via Bramante 6/8/10; h9-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.20-6pm Sun)

The best spot in town for local products bar none. With the selection here – Casciotta d'Urbina DOC cheese, salumi, biscotti, wine, craft beer, honey, grappa, olive oil, truffles, there's even local saffron! – you can stock up for a WWIII bomb shelter and still be hungry after three years of fallout. At least 90% of their inventory counts as marchigiana.

8Information

Informazione e Accoglienza Turistica (IAT)TOURIST INFORMATION

(Tourist Information; GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 26 31; Via Puccinotti 37; h9am-1pm Mon & Wed-Thu, 9am-1pm & 3-5.45pm Tue & Fri-Sun)

Urbino's main tourist information office is across from Palazzo Ducale.

Poste ItalianePOST

(Post Office; GOOGLE MAP ; www.poste.it; Via Donato Bramante 22; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.35pm Sat)

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Adriabus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 376738, 800 664332; www.adriabus.eu; Viale Antonio Gramsci) runs a half-hourly service daily between Urbino's new bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 664332; www.adriabus.eu; Viale Antonio Gramsci) and Pesaro, from where you can pick up a train for Bologna.

Car

Most vehicles are banned from Urbino's walled city. There are car parks outside the city gates, including the main one at Borgo del Mercatale. Parking costs €1.20 per hour.

Taxi

Taxi Urbino ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 25 50; Piazza della Repubblica)

Pesaro

Pop 94,600

Look beyond the concrete high-rise hotels and the crowds of bronzed holidaymakers jostling for towel space on the beach in August, and you'll find a lot to like about Pesaro. The town's setting is perfect, with beaches of fine golden sand fringing the Adriatic, a backdrop of undulating hills, and a pretty old town centred on the cafe-rimmed Piazza del Popolo, where the Renaissance Palazzo Ducale stands proud. The composer Rossini was so fond of his home town that he left it all of his possessions when he died (be sure to check out Casa Rossini while you're here).

1Sights

Pesaro has four major beach areas – the Blue Flag–awarded Levante, Ponente, Baia Flaminia and the free beach. Levante and Ponente are the jam-packed hotel-fronted beaches, so for more elbow room head to the spiaggia libera (free beach) to the south of the city, under Monte Ardizio.

Musei CiviciMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pesaromusei.it; Piazza Toschi Mosca 29; combined ticket incl entry to Casa Rossini adult/reduced €10/6; h10am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun, shorter hours winter)

Opened in the 1860s, just after Italian reunification, the town's original art gallery is now the Musei Civici, which also showcases Pesaro's stunning 700-year-old pottery tradition with one of Italy's best collections of majolica ceramics.

Casa RossiniMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pesaromusei.it; Via Rossini 34; combined ticket incl entry to Musei Civici adult/reduced €10/6; h10am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun, shorter hours winter)

In 1792 famous composer Rossini was born in a typical Pesaro townhouse that is now the Casa Rossini. His mother was a singer, his father a horn player and the young lad was composing when he was knee-high to a grasshopper. Prints, personal items and portraits provide an insight into the life of the virtuoso and his operas, such as the jaunty Barbiere di Siviglia (Barber of Seville).

zFestivals & Events

Rossini Opera FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721 380 02 94; www.rossinioperafestival.it; Via Rossini 24; hAug; box office during festival 10am-noon & 4-6.30pm)

This two-week festival is a love letter to Pesaro's local legend. Productions of Rossini's operas and concerts are staged at the Teatro Rossini and Adriatic Arena. Tickets go for anything from €20 to €180, with substantial student and last-minute discounts.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most Pesaro hotels close from October to Easter. Though many places are uninspiring 1960s concrete blocks, you can find some charmers if you look hard enough. The Associazione Pesarese di Albergatori (%0721 6 79 59; www.apahotel.it) can help.

Campeggio MarinellaCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721 5 57 95; www.campingmarinella.it; SS16 km244; camping 2 people, car & tent €26.50-39.50; hEaster-Sep; W)

Drift off in your seaside tent to the sound of waves breaking on the beach. A pizzeria is on site, as well as a minimarket, beach volleyball and lots of child-friendly activities.

Hotel ClipperHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721 3 09 15; www.hotelclipper.it; Viale Guglielmo Marconi 53; s €34-220, d €39-220, tr €54-257; paW)

In the capable hands of the friendly Gasparini family, Clipper is literally steps from the beach and a five-minute stroll from the Pesaro centre. The bright and breezy rooms, all with balconies, were completely modernised in 2017 and now feature trendy earth-toned bedding and nature-centric headboard images. And those funky blue sinks! Rates include bike rental and beach towels.

L'Angolo di MarioSEAFOOD, PIZZA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721 6 58 50; http://angolodimario.it; Via Nazario Sauro; pizza €2.50-11, meals €25-35; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm; W)

L'Angolo di Mario couples sea views with contemporary decor, pleasant service and great food. Bag a table on the terrace to gaze out across the Adriatic as you dig into well-heaped plates of mussels and clams or seafood pasta (especially strozzapreti pasta with fresh tuna, pistachio pesto and julienne zucchini) before mains of grilled fish or beef.

3Entertainment

Teatro RossiniTHEATRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721 38 76 20; www.teatridipesaro.it; Piazza Lazzarini 1; hbox office 10am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm)

This theatre was renamed in the composer's honour, and its grand ceiling and ornate box seats make it a breathtaking spot to catch a concert, especially during the Rossini Opera Festival.

8Information

Informazione e Accoglienza Turistica (IAT)TOURIST INFORMATION

(Tourist Office; GOOGLE MAP ; %0721 6 93 41; www.turismopesaro.it; Piazzale della Libertà 11; h9am-1pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Tue & Thu)

Has excellent information in English, with maps, bike path info, hotels and sights, and is extra friendly to boot.

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Pesaro's main bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 37 67 38, 800 664332; www.adriabus.eu; Piazzale Giovanni Falcone e Paolo Borsellino) is next to the train station on Piazzale Giovanni Falcone e Paolo Borsellino, about 1.5km southwest of the beach. Adriabus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722 37 67 38, 0800 664332; www.adriabus.eu; Piazzale Giovanni Falcone e Paolo Borsellino) operates a daily 5.40am departure to Rome (€35, 4¾ hours), with an additional departure at 3pm on weekdays, and half-hourly buses to Urbino.

Train

Pesaro's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trenitalia.com; Viale del Risorgimento) is on the Bologna–Lecce train line and you can reach Rome (€20.70 to €47.50, 3½ to 5¾ hours, 10 daily, directly twice daily).

Macerata

Pop 42,000

Straddling low-rise hills, Macerata combines charming hilltown scenery with the verve of student life – its university is one of Europe's oldest, dating to 1290. Its old town, a jumbled maze of cobblestone streets and honey-coloured palazzi, springs to life in summer for a month-long opera festival.

1Sights & Activities

Arena SferisterioTHEATRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 07 35; www.sferisterio.it; Piazza Mazzini 10; adult/reduced €3/2, incl guided tour €5/4; h9am-4pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 10am-5pm Mon, to 6pm Tue-Sun winter)

One of Europe’s most stunning outdoor theatres is the neoclassical Arena Sferisterio, a grand colonnaded affair resembling an ancient Roman arena, which was built between 1820 and 1829. Its acoustics are second to none, most notably enjoyed during the city's important Macerata Opera Festival ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sferisterio.it; Arena Sferisterio; hJul-Aug) every summer.

Torre CivicaHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza della Libertà)

Conceived as early as 1492 but not completed until 1653, Macerata's 64m-tall civic tower looms over Piazza della Libertà. It houses a recently restored replica of the astronomical clock (originally removed in 1882) that was once a banner of Renaissance cosmology. It features an immense blue dial with concentric circles that indicate the hour, the moon phases and the movement of celestial bodies.

Musei Civici di Palazzo BuonaccorsiMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 25 63 61; www.maceratamusei.it; Via Don Minzoni 24; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm Jul-Aug)

Macerata's museums cluster in the Musei Civici di Palazzo Buonaccorsi. On the bottom floor is the Museo delle Carozza, a beautifully displayed and extensive collection of 18th- to 20th-century coaches in a modern setting. The 1st floor brings you to the city's Arte Antica collection, with works dating from the 13th to the 19th centuries, while the 2nd floor is dedicated to Arte Moderna, with several rooms given over to Macerata-born painter Ivo Pannaggi, a driving force behind Italian futurism in the 1920s and '30s.

Loggia dei MercantiLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza della Libertà)

The historic centre is presided over by the Renaissance Loggia dei Mercanti on Piazza della Libertà. Built in 1505 for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, the soon-to-be Pope Paul III, the arcaded building housed travelling merchants selling their wares.

4Sleeping

Hotel ArcadiaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 59 61; www.harcadia.it/dove.htm; Via Matteo Ricci 134; s/d/tr €50/70/90; paW)

On a quiet lane not far from the cathedral, the Arcadia gives three-star comfort and a genuinely warm welcome at wallet-friendly prices. The pick of the rooms sport a contemporary look, with warm hues, parquet floors and flat-screen TVs. Light sleepers should be aware that the walls are quite thin.

Albergo ArenaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 09 31; www.albergoarena.com; Vicolo Sferisterio 16; s €40-85, d €55-130; paiW)

Bang in the heart of Macerata's old town, this shuttered stone house offers modest, spotlessly kept rooms, some of which have newly modernised bathrooms. It's a welcoming base for exploring the historic centre.

Le CaseAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 18 97; www.ristorantelecase.it; Via Mozzavinci 16/17; s/d/ste Mon-Fri €75/100/200, Sat & Sun €85/120/230; paWs)S

A drive lined with cypress trees sweeps up to this country manor and organic farm, nestled in glorious isolation 9km west of Macerata. The pale-hued, wood-floored rooms combine an air of discreet luxury with original trappings like beams, flagstone floors and antique furnishings, and you'll sleep like a log given the pin-drop peace here.

5Eating & Drinking

Macerata's regional version of lasagna, vincisgrassi alla maceratese, features prominently on menus and differs from the usual in that the ragù contains a mix of pork, beef and lamb. Don't miss ciauscolo, either, a soft, spreadable salume that is wonderful slathered on bread.

Da SecondoITALIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 26 09 12; www.dasecondo.com; Via Pescheria Vecchia 26/28; W)

One of Macerata's longest-running restaurants and apparently one of the few open on Sunday, Da Secondo is both welcoming – Giacomo wins Marche Server of the Year! – and an excellent spot for maceratese specialities like vincisgrassi (the local version of lasagna), ciauscolo (spicy spreadable salume) and frittura mista (fried veggies, beef-stuffed olives and other goodies).

Trattoria da EzioTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 23 66; www.trattoriadaezio.eu; Via Giovanni Mario Crescimbeni 65; meals €25-30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat; v)

A trattoria in the classic mould, da Ezio has been bubbling and stirring since 1957. The look and homey vibe have changed little since then and neither has the Slow Food menu – making the most of freshly made pasta and farm-fresh meat and veggies. There are good vegetarian options.

Osteria dei FioriOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 26 01 42; www.osteriadeifiori.it; Via Lauro Rossi 61; meals €25-30; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat; vc)

This osteria has a low-key vibe and al fresco seating in summer. The cuisine is season-focused, but the creative menu might include, say, spaghetti with spring chicory and hazelnuts, followed by roasted rabbit with fennel and coffee-aniseed gelato. Kids and vegetarians are well catered for.

Beer BangCRAFT BEER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6pm-2am; www.facebook.com/beerbangmacerata; Via Francesco Crispi 41; beers €2-5; h6pm-2am; W)

An atmospheric pub for local and international craft beer under historic arched ceilings. There are eight beers on draught (plus one hand-pump) and a refrigerator full of mostly Belgium and German choices in bottles.

3Entertainment

Teatro Lauro RossiTHEATRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 35 08; Piazza della Libertà)

Teatro Lauro Rossi is an elegant theatre built in 1774 for the musical enjoyment of the nobility. It now also allows well-dressed riff-raff to attend. It stages everything from classical music concerts to comedies, contemporary plays and dance productions.

8Information

Informazione e Accoglienza Turistica (IAT)TOURIST INFORMATION

(Tourist Office; GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 48 07; www.turismo.provinciamc.it; Corso della Repubblica 32; h9am-1pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat)

Pick up info on Macerata and its surrounds and book tours here.

Poste ItalianePOST

(Post Office; GOOGLE MAP ; www.poste.it; Via Gramsci 44; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Roma Marche (%call centre Civitanova Marche 0733 81 86 38; www.romamarchelinee.it) connects Macerata with Rome (€24, four hours, 1.30am, 5am, 6.15am, 8.30am, 10.45am, & 4.15pm) and Naples (€34, 6½ hours, 5am). Timetables for local Contram ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 08 75; www.contram.it; Piazza Piazzarello) buses are available at the bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 23 08 75; Piazza Piazzarello).

Car & Motorcycle

The SS77 connects the city of Macerata with the A14 to the east and roads for Rome in the west. There is paid parking (€1.20 per hour) from 8am to 8pm skirting the city walls and free parking at the Giardini Diaz, where the long-distance buses arrive.

Train

From Macerata's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0733 24 03 54; www.trenitalia.com; Piazza XXV Aprile 8/10) there are good connections to Ancona (€6.10, 1¼ hours, hourly) and Rome (€17.20 to €26, four to five hours, eight daily). To reach Ascoli Piceno (€8.25, 1¾ to 2¼ hours, 10 daily), change trains at Civitanova Marche-Montegranaro.

Bus 6 links the train station with the Piazza della Libertà in the Macerata city centre.

Ascoli Piceno

Pop 49,900

With a continuous history dating from the Sabine tribe in the 9th century, Ascoli (as it's known locally) is like the long-lost cousin of ancient Rome and a small Marchigiani village, heavy on history and food. Weary legs will appreciate its lack of hills and all travellers will appreciate its historical riches, excellent pinacoteca (art gallery), trendy bars and restaurants, one of Italy's unsung perfect piazzas and the calorific treat, olive all'ascolana (veal-stuffed fried olives). Welcome to the hippest town in Le Marche.

1Sights

Ascoli Piceno's Vecchio Quartiere (Old Quarter) stretches from Corso Mazzini (the main thoroughfare of the Roman-era settlement) to the Castellano river. Its main street is the picturesque Via delle Torri, which eventually becomes Via Solestà; it's a perfect spot to wander around.

A museum card is purportedly on the way for Ascoli Piceno's civic museums. Check at the tourist office.

oPiazza del PopoloPIAZZA

( GOOGLE MAP )

The harmonious and simply lovely Piazza del Popolo has been Ascoli's salotto (sitting room) since Roman times. The rectangular square is flanked on the west by the 13th-century Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo. Built in the same famed travertine stone used throughout the region for centuries, the 'Captain's Palace' was the headquarters for the leaders of Ascoli. The statue of Pope Paul III above the main entrance was erected in recognition of his efforts to bring peace to the town.

Chiesa di San FrancescoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via del Trivio 49; h7am-12.30pm & 3.30-8pm)

This beautiful church was started back in 1262 as an homage to a visit from St Francis himself. In the left nave is a 15th-century wooden cross that miraculously made it through a 1535 fire at the Palazzo dei Capitani, and has since reputedly spilled blood twice.

PinacotecaGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ascolimusei.it; Piazza Arringo; adult/reduced €8/5; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, to 5pm winter)

Gathered around a tree-shaded courtyard, the second-largest art gallery in Le Marche sits inside the 17th-century Palazzo Comunale. It boasts an outstanding display of art, sculpture and religious artefacts; there are 400 works in total, including paintings by Titian, Crivelli and Reni, and a stunning embroidered 13th-century papal cape worn by Ascoli-born Pope Nicholas IV.

Galleria d'Arte Contemporanea Oswaldo LiciniGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ascolimusei.it; Corso Mazzini 90; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun, guided tours 11am & 3pm, shorter hours winter)

This gallery is the small personal collection of Oswaldo Licini's Italian contemporary art, including a number of graphic works. The collection is highlighted by several 1950s-era paintings by the museum's namesake, one of Italy's best-known abstract artists.

Museo dell'Arte CeramicaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 29 82 13; www.ascolimusei.it; Piazza San Tommaso; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun, guided tours 11am & 3pm, shorter hours winter)

The Museo dell'Arte Ceramica has displays on the major Italian pottery towns, including Deruta, Faenza and Genoa, among others. Don't miss Libero Grue's 18th-century framed pictorials, a sort of Old World comic strip.

DuomoCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Arringo; h8am-noon & 4-8pm)

Topped by a pair of mismatched towers, Ascoli's duomo was built in the 16th century over a medieval building and dedicated to St Emidio, patron saint of the city. In the Cappella del Sacramento is the three-section Polyptych of San Emidio, Venetian painter Carlo Crivelli's 1473 masterpiece. It is still in its original frame and is an extraordinarily rare example of pictorial art from the 15th century. It has never once left this spot.

The elaborate crypt of Sant'Emidio has a set of mosaics any ceramicist will appreciate.

Museo ArcheologicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.archeomarche.beniculturali.it; Piazza Arringo 28; adult/reduced €4/2; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun)

Ascoli's archaeological museum holds a small collection of tribal artefacts from the Piceni and other European peoples dating back to the first centuries AD, as well as a fantastic mosaic floor featuring a stunning and fascinating centrepiece: a dual-sided depiction of an old/young Roman God Janus (an optical illusion depending on your viewpoint).

Torre degli ErcolaniHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via dei Soderini)

This 40m-high tower, west of the Chiesa di San Pietro Martire, is closed to the public but is the tallest of the town's medieval towers. Palazzetto Longobardo, a 12th-century Lombard-Romanesque defensive position and now the Ostello dei Longobardi youth hostel, abuts the tower. Just to the north is the well-preserved Ponte Romano, a single-arched Roman bridge.

zFestivals & Events

QuintanaCULTURAL

(www.quintanadiascoli.it; hlate Jul/early Aug)

This is one of Italy's most famous medieval festivals, and for good reason. Expect thousands of locals dressed in typical medieval garb: knights in armour, flag-throwers and ladies in flamboyant velvet robes. Processions and flag-waving contests take place throughout July and August, but the big draw is the Quintana joust, when the town's six sestieri (districts) face off.

Fritto Misto all'ItalianaFOOD & DRINK

(www.frittomistoallitaliana.it; hlate Apr)

This four-day festival of fried food aims to 'debunk the prejudice that it's unhealthy'. After a few hours spent grazing stalls packed with heavy-duty treats – cannoli from Sicily, panzerotti from Puglia and, of course, olive all'ascolana (fried stuffed Ascoli olives) – your body may not agree, although your taste buds will have had a blast.

4Sleeping

For a town of such modest proportions, Ascoli Piceno has an extraordinary number of charming hotels, many of which offer early-booking discounts. Stop by the tourist office for lists of apartments, agriturismi (farm stay accommodation) and B&Bs.

oVilla FortezzaB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %328 4131656; www.villafortezza.it; Via Fortezza Pia 5; s €50-80, d €60-100, q €120, 3br house €250; paW)

On its hilltop perch above Ascoli's old town near the fort, and reached by a seemingly never-ending flight of steps, this villa is a delight. Salvatore, your kindly host, does his best to welcome you in his art-strewn home, where individually designed, parquet-floored rooms swing from classic to contemporary.

Hotel Palazzo dei MercantiHISTORIC HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 25 60 44; www.palazzodeimercanti.it; Corso Trento e Trieste 35; d €75-150, ste €120-200; pW)

This 16th-century palazzo was once part of the Sant’Egido convent. Today you'll count your blessings in rooms done out in soothing pastel tones and hand-crafted furniture, with nice touches like tea and coffee and bathrobes (handy for the spa's whirlpool, sauna and hammam). The palazzo manages the delicate task of combining original stone-vaulted interiors with a fresh, contemporary aesthetic.

Palazzo GuiderocchiBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 25 97 10; www.palazzoguiderocchi.com; Via Cesare Battisti 3; s €69-129, d €89-149, ste €119-190; paiW)

Not many places offer the history, atmosphere and comfort of this 16th-century palazzo. Beautifully gathered around an inner courtyard, it retains the romance of vaulted ceilings on the 1st floor, low wood-beamed ceilings on the 2nd, and frescoes and several original doors throughout.

5Eating & Drinking

oDegusteria 25 Doc & DopITALIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 31 33 24; Via Panichi 3; meals €15; hnoon-12.30pm & 7pm-midnight Tue, Thu & Sat-Sun, 7pm-midnight Wed & Fri)

Strings of garlic and chilli dangle from the ceiling of this convivial deli-enoteca, where the locals squeeze in or spill out onto the terrace for fine wines and tasting plates of regional salumi, cheese and, of course, olive all'ascolana. Decent daily specials are rustled up for €6.

Siamo FrittiCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.siamofritti.ap.it; Piazza Simonetti 87; snacks €3-4.50; h11am-3pm & 5.30pm-midnight)

A great little cafe specialising in both the city's famed fried-and-stuffed olives (there's a vegetarian version for non-carnivores) and local wines. The perfect initiation to this local delicacy is the €6 olive con vino package deal, which includes a portion of olive all'ascolana and a glass of wine – try it with the Fiori di Seta passerina frizzante (a fizzy local white).

Piccolo TeatroITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 26 15 74; Via Goldoni 2; meals €25-35; h7.30-10pm Tue & Fri, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Thu & Sun, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Sat)

This barrel-vaulted restaurant blends historic charm with a dash of style and a strong sense of place. Tables draped in white linen set the scene for wonderfully light pasta and season-driven dishes – from stringoni pasta carbonara modified with black truffles to pork ribs with Sibillini pink apples.

Il DescoMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 25 07 57; www.ildescoristorante.it; Via Vidacilio 10; meals €30-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun; W)

Funky chandeliers, high vaults and white distressed wood create a country-chic backdrop at this gorgeously styled palazzo. When the weather warms, diners spill out into the garden courtyard, lit by tealights. A clever use of herbs elevates seasonal specialities, from homemade paccheri di gragnano with artichokes and bacon, to grilled calamari with chickpea puree and rosemary. It's all delicious.

Vincè Fa La Carita A Lu DomeWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.vincefalacaritaaludome.it; Piazza Arringo 18; white/red by the glass €3.50/4)

An Ascoli meeting point on pretty Piazza Arringo, this cheekily named cafe/wine bar draws a fun, artsy crowd for its nightly aperitivo. Great local wines can be sunk here on the cheap – especially when you pair them with the setting. The name literally means 'Vincenzo is giving out money to the cathedral for charity' and is a not-so-subtle dig at the Catholic church. Next door, the same owners at Ariafritta do a good olive all’ascolana.

8Information

Centro Informazioni TuristicheTOURIST INFORMATION

(Tourist Office; GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 28 83 34; www.visitascoli.it; Piazza Arringo 7; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun)

Ascoli's comune tourist office is stocked with maps and leaflets on Ascoli's sights and hiking in the surrounds and Monti Sibillini. It also rents out bikes for €2/4 per half/full day.

Poste ItalianePOST

(Post Office; GOOGLE MAP ; www.poste.it; Via Crispi 2; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Services leave from Piazzale della Stazione ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Venezia 5), in front of the train station in the new part of Ascona, east of the Castellano river. Start ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 23 55; www.startspa.it; Piazzale della Stazione) runs buses to Rome (€17.50, three hours, eight daily) and Civitanova Marche (€4.70, two hours, 10 daily).

Train

Connections to Ancona (€9.05, two hours, 10 daily) occasionally involve a change in Porto d'Ascoli. Trains to Macerata (€8.25, 2¼ hours, 12 daily) require one or two changes. The train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trenitalia.com; Piazza Stazione) is a 1.2km walk east of the centre.

EARTHQUAKE UPDATE: MONTI SIBILLINI NATIONAL PARK

Straddling the Le Marche–Umbria border in rugged splendour, the Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini never looks less than extraordinary, whether visited in winter, when its peaks – 10 of which tower above 2000m – are dusted with snow, or in summer, when its meadows are carpeted with poppies and cornflowers.

At the time of research, access to many towns in the park was highly restricted, as this region took the brunt of central Italy's two devastating 2016 earthquakes. Many of the park's glacier-carved valleys and beautifully preserved hilltop hamlets are now strewn with rubble and devastation, traversed only by uniformed firefighters, public rescue and civil defence authorities rather than hikers and outdoor enthusiasts.

So, what can you do in the park during this extremely painful healing process? The northeast side of the park fared better. Two visitor centres remain open – Centro Visite del Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini e Museo della Sibilla ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0736 85 64 62; www.sibillini.net; Via Trieste 11, Montemonaco; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm July & Aug, shorter hrs rest of yr) in Montemonaco and Centro il Chirocefalo e il Lago di Pilato in Foce in Foce di Montemonaco – while temporary centres were in the works at most other places where permanent ones previously operated. Il Giardino delle Farfalle (www.prolococessapalombo.it), the butterfly garden at Cessapalombo, is open.

The majority of trekking routes through the park can also be accessed, including the 124km Grande Anello dei Sibillini (two rifugi remain open as well as some alternative accommodation along the route) and hiking routes E10 (Monte Sibilla), E2 (Lame Rosse), E6 and E1, among others. Additionally, all the ski slopes on the Sarnano side of the park are operating normally.

It’s hard to say how long repairs and reconstruction will take, but park officials estimate one to two years for the park to return to normal operating status and 10 to 15 years for restoration of historic structures in the area (though some say the park will never be quite like it was pre-earthquake). Of course, all of these conditions remain extremely fluid – please check the park's website for the most up-to-date conditions.

Sarnano

Pop 3300

Spilling photogenically down a hillside, its medieval heart a maze of narrow cobbled lanes, Sarnano looks every inch the Italian hilltown prototype, particularly when its red-brick facades glow warmly in the late-afternoon sun. It is a charming, hospitable base for exploring the Monti Sibillini range and home to 11km of ski slopes.

The medieval town centre made it through the October 2016 central Italy earthquake relatively unscathed, but a few businesses – including several restaurants and the tourist office – have been relocated.

4Sleeping & Eating

Typical local eats include ciauscolo di Sarnano (a soft, spreadable salami) and crostata al torroncino (a typical pie made with dried fruit, cocoa and shortcrust pastry).

oAgriturismo SerpaneraAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %334 1220242; www.serpanera.com; Contrada Schito 447; apt €79-169, per week €500-1200; paWs)S

Quite the rural idyll, this 17th-century farmhouse snuggles deep among 10 hectares of orchards, vines and woodlands. Besides its spotless apartments, the eco-savvy agriturismo invites lingering with its gorgeous views of Sarnano to Monti Sibillini beyond, a pool overlooking rolling hills, a spa, barbecue area, nature trails and horse riding. Your affable hosts, Marco and Cristiana, whip up delicious breakfasts with farm-fresh produce.

Le ClarisseOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %345 4959389; www.osterialeclarisse.it; Contrada Brill, Camping Quattro Stagioni; meals €15-40; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-10pm daily summer, Wed-Sun winter)

Once right in the centre of town, Le Clarisse was forced to move due to to an unstable post-earthquake structure it shared with neighbours. Unfortunately, it traded atmospheric medieval walls for a cruddy campground outside town. But the food and kitchen remain the same: it serves whatever is fresh and seasonal (with an emphasis on regional truffles).

8Information

Informazione e Accoglienza Turistica (IAT)TOURIST INFORMATION

(Tourist Office; GOOGLE MAP ; www.sarnanoturismo.it; Piazzale Bottoni; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-6pm Tue & Thu)

The Sarnano tourist office has walking and climbing information and details of accommodation in the park. Earthquake damaged has forced a temporary move to a small wooden house on Piazzale Bottoni (between the temporary police station and UBI bank), with no estimate of its return to its original location at Largo Ricciardi 1.

8Getting There & Away

Sarnano sits about 20km south of the Caldarola exit off the SS71, about halfway between Foligno and Civitanova Marche.

Buses depart from a stop on SP78 on the north side of Piazza della Libertà. SASP ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.autolineesasp.it; Piazza della Libertà) connects Sarnano with Macerata (€3.40, one hour, every 30 to 60 minutes). To Ascoli Pisceno, Madebus ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.madebus.it; Piazza della Libertà) runs buses to Comunanza (€3.15), from where you can switch for a SASP bus on to Ascoli Piceno (€2.60, 45 minutes, seven daily).