Naples & Campania

Why Go?

Campania is the Italy of your wildest dreams; a rich, intense, hypnotic ragù of Arabesque street life, decadent palaces, pastel-hued villages and aria-inspiring vistas.

Few corners of Europe can match the cultural conundrums here. Should you spend the morning waltzing through chandeliered Bourbon bedrooms or the frescoed villa of a Roman emperor's wife? And which of Caravaggio's canvases shouldn't you miss: the multi-scene masterpiece inside Naples' Pio Monte della Misericordia, or the artist's brooding swansong inside the city's belle époque Palazzo Zevallos?

Mother Nature let loose in Italy's south, creating a thrilling playground of rugged mountains, steaming fumaroles, and ethereal coastal grottoes. Horse ride the slopes of Mt Vesuvius, sail the Amalfi Coast or simply soak at a thermal beach on Ischia. Afterwards, local feasts await; bubbling, wood-fired pizza in Naples, long lunches at Cilento agriturismi (farm stays), and lavish pastries at celebrity-status Amalfi Coast pasticcerie (pastry shops).

When to Go

May Best month to visit the region. Warm days, with many special events on.
Jun & Sep Generally deliver summer heat without the August crowds and traffic.
Aug Hottest month; many shops and restaurants close while locals go on holiday.

Best Places to Eat

A Casa Mele

A Da Salvatore

A La Cantina del Feudo

A Salumeria

A Soul & Fish

Best Places to Sleep

A Atelier Ines

A Casa Mariantonia

A Albergo il Monastero

A Hotel Piazza Bellini

A Palazzo Marziale

Naples & Campania Highlights

1 Pompeii Channelling the ancients on the ill-fated streets of this erstwhile Roman city.

2 Grotta Azzurra Being bewitched by Capri’s ethereal blue cave.

3 Sentieri degli Dei Walking with the gods on the Amalfi Coast.

4 Cappella Sansevero Re-evaluating artistic ingenuity in Naples.

5 Procida Lunching by lapping waves on the Bay of Naples' pastel-hued smallest island

6 Negombo Indulging in a little thermal therapy on Ischia.

7 Villa Rufolo Attending a concert at this dreamy Ravello villa and its cascading gardens.

8 Reggia di Caserta Pretending you’re royalty at this monumental Unesco-listed palace complex.

9 Paestum Admiring ancient Hellenic ingenuity in the colossal ruins of Magna Graecia.

Naples

%081 / Pop 970,200

Italy's third-largest city is one of its oldest, most artistic and most appetising. Naples' centro storico (historic centre) is a Unesco World Heritage Site, its archaeological treasures are among the world's most important, and its swag of vainglorious palaces, castles and churches make Rome look positively provincial.

Then there's the food. Blessed with rich volcanic soils, a bountiful sea, and centuries of culinary know-how, the Naples region is one of Italy's epicurean heavyweights, serving up the country's best pizza, pasta and coffee, and many of its most celebrated seafood dishes, street snacks and sweet treats.

Certainly, Naples' urban sprawl can feel anarchic, tattered and unloved. But look beyond the grime, graffiti and occasional gruffness and you'll uncover a city of breathtaking frescoes, sculptures and panoramas, of unexpected elegance, of spontaneous conversations and profound humanity. Welcome to Italy's most unlikely masterpiece.

History

After founding nearby Cuma in the 8th century BC, the ancient Greeks settled the city in around 680 BC, calling it Parthenope. Under the Romans, the area became an ancient Miami of sorts: a sun-soaked spa region that drew the likes of Virgil. Dampening the bonhomie was Mt Vesuvius' eruption in AD 79.

Naples fell into Norman hands in 1139 before the French Angevins took control a century later, boosting the city's cred with the mighty Castel Nuovo. By the 16th century, Naples was under Spanish rule and riding high on Spain's colonial riches. By 1600, it was Europe's largest city and a burgeoning baroque beauty adorned by artists like Luca Giordano, Giuseppe de Ribera and Caravaggio.

Despite a devastating plague in 1656, Naples' ego soared under the Bourbons (1734–1860), with epic constructions such as the Teatro San Carlo and the Reggia di Caserta sealing the city's showcase reputation.

An ill-fated attempt at republican rule in 1799 was followed by a short stint under the French and a final period of Bourbon governance before nationalist rebel Giuseppe Garibaldi inspired the city to snip off the puppet strings and join a united Italy in 1860.

Although the Nazis took Naples in 1943, they were quickly forced out by a series of popular uprisings between 26 and 30 September, famously known as the Quattro giornate di Napoli (Four Days of Naples). Led by locals, especially by young scugnizzi (Neapolitan for 'street urchins') and ex-soldiers, the street battles paved the way for the Allies to enter the city on 1 October.

Despite setting up a provisional government in Naples, the Allies were confronted with an anarchic mass of troops, German prisoners of war and bands of Italian fascists all competing with the city's starving population for food. Overwhelmed, Allied authorities turned to the underworld for assistance. As long as the Allies agreed to turn a blind eye to their black-market activities, the Mafia was willing to help. And so the Camorra (Neapolitan Mafia) was given a boost.

On 23 November 1980, a devastating earthquake struck the mountainous area of Irpinia, 100km east of Naples. The quake, which left more than 2700 people dead and thousands more homeless, caused extensive damage in Naples. It is believed that US$6.4 billion of the funds poured into the region to assist the victims and rebuilding ended up in the pockets of the Camorra.

In 2011, Neapolitan voters elected the city's current mayor, Luigi de Magistris, a youthful former public prosecutor and vocal critic of both the mafia and government corruption. Determined to improve the city's liveability, de Magistris has pushed through a number of initiatives, including the transformation of the Lungomare from a traffic-clogged thoroughfare into a pedestrian and bike-friendly waterfront strip.

1Sights

Centro Storico

oComplesso Monumentale di Santa ChiaraBASILICA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 551 66 73; www.monasterodisantachiara.com; Via Santa Chiara 49c; basilica free, Complesso Monumentale adult/reduced €6/4.50; hbasilica 7.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm, Complesso Monumentale 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun; mDante)

Vast, Gothic and cleverly deceptive, the mighty Basilica di Santa Chiara stands at the heart of this tranquil monastery complex. The church was severely damaged in WWII: what you see today is a 20th-century recreation of Gagliardo Primario's 14th-century original. Adjoining it are the basilica's cloisters, adorned with brightly coloured 17th-century majolica tiles and frescoes.

While the Angevin porticoes date back to the 14th century, the cloisters took on their current look in the 18th century thanks to the landscaping work of Domenico Antonio Vaccaro. The walkways that divide the central garden of lavender and citrus trees are lined with 72 ceramic-tiled octagonal columns connected by benches. Painted by Donato and Giuseppe Massa, the tiles depict various rural scenes, from hunting sessions to vignettes of peasant life. The four internal walls are covered with soft, whimsical 17th-century frescoes of Franciscan tales.

Adjacent to the cloisters, a small and elegant museum of mostly ecclesiastical props also features the excavated ruins of a 1st-century spa complex, including a remarkably well-preserved laconicum (sauna).

Commissioned by Robert of Anjou for his wife Sancia di Maiorca, the monastic complex was built to house 200 monks and the tombs of the Angevin royal family. Dissed as a 'stable' by Robert's ungrateful son Charles of Anjou, the basilica received a luscious baroque makeover by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro, Gaetano Buonocore and Giovanni Del Gaizo in the 18th century before taking a direct hit during an Allied air raid on 4 August 1943. Its reconstruction was completed in 1953. Features that did survive the fire include part of a 14th-century fresco to the left of the main door and a chapel containing the tombs of the Bourbon kings from Ferdinand I to Francesco II.

The church forecourt makes a cameo in Pier Paolo Pasolini's film Il Decameron (The Decameron), itself based on Giovanni Boccaccio's 14th-century novel.

oCappella SanseveroCHAPEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 551 84 70; www.museosansevero.it; Via Francesco de Sanctis 19; adult/reduced €7/5; h9.30am-6.30pm Wed-Mon; mDante)

It's in this Masonic-inspired baroque chapel that you'll find Giuseppe Sanmartino's incredible sculpture, Cristo velato (Veiled Christ), its marble veil so realistic that it's tempting to try to lift it and view Christ underneath. It's one of several artistic wonders that include Francesco Queirolo's sculpture Disinganno (Disillusion), Antonio Corradini's Pudicizia (Modesty) and riotously colourful frescoes by Francesco Maria Russo, the latter untouched since their creation in 1749.

Originally built around the end of the 16th century to house the tombs of the di Sangro family, the chapel was given its current baroque fit-out by Prince Raimondo di Sangro, who, between 1749 and 1766, commissioned the finest artists to adorn the interior. In Queirolo's Disinganno, the man trying to untangle himself from a net represents Raimondo's father, Antonio, Duke of Torremaggiore. After the premature death of his wife, Antonio abandoned the young Raimondo, choosing instead a life of travel and hedonistic pleasures. Repentant in his later years, he returned to Naples and joined the priesthood, his attempt to free himself from sin represented in Queirolo's masterpiece.

Even more poignant is Antonio Corradini's Pudicizia, whose veiled female figure pays tribute to Raimondo's mother, Cecilia Gaetani d’Aquila d’Aragona. Raimondo was only 11 months old when she died, and the statue's lost gaze and broken plaque represent a life cruelly cut short.

The chapel's original polychrome marble flooring was badly damaged in a major collapse involving the chapel and the neighbouring Palazzo dei di Sangro in 1889. Designed by Francesco Celebrano, the flooring survives in fragmentary form in the passageway leading off from the chapel's right side. The passageway leads to a staircase, at the bottom of which you'll find two meticulously preserved human arterial systems – one of a man, the other of a woman. Debate still circles the models: are the arterial systems real or reproductions? And if they are real, just how was such an incredible state of preservation achieved? More than two centuries on, the mystery surrounding the alchemist prince lives on.

Queues here can be notoriously long so consider purchasing your ticket online in advance for fast-track entry into the chapel; it's worth the extra €2 booking fee, especially during peak holiday periods.

Central Naples

1Top Sights

1Cappella SanseveroB3

2Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo MaggioreC2

3Complesso Monumentale di Santa ChiaraB3

4DuomoD1

5Museo Archeologico NazionaleA1

6Pio Monte della MisericordiaD2

1Sights

7Chiesa del Gesù NuovoB3

8Guglia dell'ImmacolataB3

9Guglia di San GennaroD2

10Napoli SotterraneaC2

11Via San Gregorio ArmenoC2

4Sleeping

12B&B Arte e MuseiA1

13Casa LatinaC2

14Decumani Hotel de CharmeB4

15Hotel Piazza BelliniB2

5Eating

16La Taverna di Santa ChiaraB3

17Pizzeria Gino SorbilloC2

18SalumeriaB3

19SerafinoC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Donna RomitaC3

21Spazio NeaB2

3Entertainment

22Lanificio 25E1

7Shopping

23Bottega 21B3

24La ScarabattolaC2

Chiesa del Gesù NuovoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 551 86 13; Piazza del Gesù Nuovo; h7.30am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-2pm & 4-9pm Sun; mDante)

The extraordinary Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo is an architectural Kinder Surprise. Its shell is the 15th-century, Giuseppe Valeriani–designed facade of Palazzo Sanseverino, converted to create the 16th-century church. Inside, piperno-stone sobriety gives way to a gob-smacking blast of baroque that could make the Vatican blush: a vainglorious showcase for the work of top-tier artists such as Francesco Solimena, Luca Giordano and Cosimo Fanzago.

The church is the final resting place of much-loved local saint Giuseppe Moscati (1880–1927), a doctor who served the city's poor. Adjacent to the right transept, the Sale di San Giuseppe Moscati (Rooms of St Joseph Moscati) include a recreation of the great man's study, complete with the armchair in which he died. Scan the walls for ex-votos, gifts offered by the faithful for miracles purportedly received. The church itself received a miracle of sorts on 4 August 1943, when a bomb dropped on the site failed to explode. Its shell is aptly displayed beside the ex-votos.

The church flanks the northern side of beautiful Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, a favourite late-night hang-out for students and lefties. At its centre soars Giuseppe Genuino's lavish Guglia dell'Immacolata ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mDante), an obelisk built between 1747 and 1750. On 8 December, the Feast of the Immacolata, firemen scramble up to the top to place a wreath of flowers at the Virgin Mary's feet.

Via San Gregorio ArmenoSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo)

Dismissed by serious collectors, this narrow street remains famous across Italy for its pastori (Christmas crib figurines) nonetheless. Connecting Spaccanapoli with Via dei Tribunali, the decumanus maior (main road) of ancient Neapolis, its clutter of shops and workshops peddle everything from doting donkeys to kitsch celebrity caricatures. At No 8 you'll find the workshop of Giuseppe Ferrigno, whose terracotta figurines are the most famous and esteemed on the strip.

oComplesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo MaggioreARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 211 08 60; www.sanlorenzomaggiorenapoli.it; Via dei Tribunali 316; church admission free, excavations & museum adult/reduced €9/7; hchurch 8am-7pm, excavations & museum 9.30am-5.30pm; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo)

The basilica at this richly layered religious complex is deemed one of Naples' finest medieval buildings. Aside from Ferdinando Sanfelice's facade, the Cappella al Rosario and the Cappellone di Sant'Antonio, its baroque makeover was stripped away last century to reveal its austere, Gothic elegance. Beneath the basilica is a sprawl of extraordinary Graeco-Roman ruins, best explored on one of the regular one-hour guided tours (€1).

To better understand the ruins, start your explorations in the Museo dell'Opera di San Lorenzo Maggiore, which includes a model of the area as it appeared in ancient times. The museum also includes an intriguing collection of local archaeological finds, including Graeco-Roman sarcophagi, ceramics and crockery from the digs below. Other treasures include vivacious 9th-century ceramics, Angevin frescoes, paintings by Giuseppe Marullo and Luigi Velpi, and fine examples of 17th- and 18th-century ecclesiastical vestments.

The ruins themselves will see you walking past ancient bakeries, wineries, laundries and barrel-vaulted rooms that once formed part of the city's two-storey macellum (market).

Above them, the basilica itself was commenced in 1270 by French architects, who built the apse. Local architects took over the following century, recycling ancient columns in the nave. Catherine of Austria, who died in 1323, is buried here in a beautiful mosaiced tomb. Legend has it that this was where Boccaccio first fell for Mary of Anjou, the inspiration for his character Fiammetta, while the poet Petrarch called the adjoining convent home in 1345.

oPio Monte della MisericordiaCHURCH, MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 44 69 44; www.piomontedellamisericordia.it; Via dei Tribunali 253; adult/reduced €7/5; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo)

The 1st floor gallery of this octagonal, 17th-century church delivers a small, satisfying collection of Renaissance and baroque art, including works by Francesco de Mura, Giuseppe de Ribera, Andrea Vaccaro and Paul van Somer. It's also home to contemporary artworks by Italian and foreign artists, each inspired by Caravaggio's masterpiece Le sette opere di Misericordia (The Seven Acts of Mercy). Considered by many to be the most important painting in Naples, you'll find it above the main altar in the ground-floor chapel.

Magnificently demonstrating the artist's chiaroscuro style, which had a revolutionary impact in Naples, Le sette opere di Misericordia was considered unique in its ability to illustrate the various acts in one seamlessly choreographed scene. On display in the 1st-floor gallery is the Declaratoria del 14 Ottobre 1607, an original church document acknowledging payment of 400 ducats to Caravaggio for the masterpiece. The painting itself is best viewed from the 1st-floor gallery's Sala del Coretto (Coretto Room), where the lighting used to illuminate the canvas is less glary.

On the opposite side of the street stands the Guglia di San Gennaro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Riario Sforza; gC55 to Via Duomo). Dating back to 1636, with stonework by Cosimo Fanzago and a bronze statue by Tommaso Montani, the obelisk is a soaring grazie (thank you) to the city's patron saint for protecting Naples from the 1631 eruption of Mt Vesuvius.

oDuomoCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 44 90 97; Via Duomo 149; cathedral/baptistry free/€2; hcathedral 8.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sun, baptistry 8.30am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1pm Sun; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo)

Whether you go for Giovanni Lanfranco's fresco in the Cappella di San Gennaro (Chapel of St Janarius), the 4th-century mosaics in the baptistry, or the thrice-annual miracle of San Gennaro, do not miss Naples' cathedral. Kick-started by Charles I of Anjou in 1272 and consecrated in 1315, it was largely destroyed in a 1456 earthquake, with copious nips and tucks over the subsequent centuries.

Among these is the gleaming neo-Gothic facade, only added in the late 19th century. Step inside and you'll immediately notice the central nave's gilded coffered ceiling, studded with late-Mannerist art. The high sections of the nave and the transept are the work of baroque overachiever Luca Giordano.

Off the right aisle, the 17th-century Cappella di San Gennaro (also known as the Chapel of the Treasury) was designed by Giovanni Cola di Franco and completed in 1637. The most sought-after artists of the period worked on the chapel, creating one of Naples' greatest baroque legacies. Highlights here include Giuseppe de Ribera's gripping canvas St Gennaro Escaping the Furnace Unscathed and Giovanni Lanfranco's dizzying dome fresco. Hidden away in a strongbox behind the altar is a 14th-century silver bust in which sit the skull of San Gennaro and the two phials that hold his miraculously liquefying blood.

The next chapel eastwards contains an urn with the saint's bones and a cupboard full of femurs, tibias and fibulas. Below the high altar is the Cappella Carafa, a Renaissance chapel built to house yet more of the saint's remains.

Off the left aisle lies the 4th-century Basilica di Santa Restituta, subject to an almost complete makeover after the earthquake of 1688. From it you can access the Battistero di San Giovanni in Fonte. Western Europe's oldest baptistry, it's encrusted with fragments of glittering 4th-century mosaics. The Duomo's subterranean archaeological zone, which includes fascinating remains of Greek and Roman buildings and roads, remains closed indefinitely.

MADREGALLERY

(Museo d'Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina; GOOGLE MAP ; %081 1931 3016; www.madrenapoli.it; Via Settembrini 79; adult/reduced €7/3.50, Mon free; h10am-7.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo, mPiazza Cavour)

When Madonna and Child overload hits, reboot at Naples' museum of modern and contemporary art. Start on level three – the setting for temporary exhibitions – before hitting level two's permanent collection of painting, sculpture, photography and installations from prolific 20th- and 21st-century artists. Among these are Andy Warhol, Gilbert & George and Cindy Sherman, as well as Italian heavyweights Mario Merz and Michelangelo Pistoletto. Specially commissioned installations from the likes of Anish Kapoor and Rebecca Horn round things off on level one.

oMuseo Archeologico NazionaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %848 80 02 88, from mobile 06 3996 7050; www.museoarcheologiconapoli.it; Piazza Museo Nazionale 19; adult/reduced €12/6; h9am-7.30pm Wed-Mon; mMuseo, Piazza Cavour)

Naples' National Archaeological Museum serves up one of the world’s finest collections of Graeco-Roman artefacts. Originally a cavalry barracks and later seat of the city’s university, the museum was established by the Bourbon king Charles VII in the late 18th century to house the antiquities he inherited from his mother, Elisabetta Farnese, as well as treasures looted from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Star exhibits include the celebrated Toro Farnese (Farnese Bull) sculpture and a series of awe-inspiring mosaics from Pompeii's Casa del Fauno.

Before tackling the collection, consider investing in the National Archaeological Museum of Naples (€12), published by Electa; if you want to concentrate on the highlights, audio guides (€5) are available in English. It’s also worth calling ahead to ensure that the galleries you want to see are open, as staff shortages often mean that sections of the museum close for part of the day.

Downstairs is the impressive, recently revamped Borgia collection of Egyptian epigraphs and relics, organised around themes including Tombs and Grave Goods, Mummification and Magic. The ground-floor Farnese collection of colossal Greek and Roman sculptures features the Toro Farnese and a muscle-bound Ercole (Hercules). Sculpted in the early 3rd century AD and noted in the writings of Pliny, the Toro Farnese, probably a Roman copy of a Greek original, depicts the humiliating death of Dirce, Queen of Thebes. Carved from a single colossal block of marble, the sculpture was discovered in 1545 near the Baths of Caracalla in Rome and was restored by Michelangelo, before eventually being shipped to Naples in 1787. Ercole was discovered in the same Roman excavations, albeit without his legs. When they turned up at a later dig, the Bourbons had them fitted.

If you’re short on time, take in both these masterpieces before heading straight to the mezzanine floor, home to an exquisite collection of mosaics, mostly from Pompeii. Of the series taken from the Casa del Fauno, it is La battaglia di Alessandro contro Dario (The Battle of Alexander against Darius) that really stands out. The best-known depiction of Alexander the Great, the 20-sq-metre mosaic was probably made by Alexandrian craftsmen working in Italy around the end of the 2nd century BC.

Beyond the mosaics, the Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Chamber) contains a small but much-studied collection of ancient erotica. Pan is caught in the act with a nanny goat in the collection’s most famous piece – a small and surprisingly sophisticated statue taken from the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum. You'll also find a series of nine paintings depicting erotic positions – a menu for brothel patrons.

Originally the royal library, the enormous Sala Meridiana (Great Hall of the Sundial) on the 1st floor is home to the Farnese Atlante, a statue of Atlas carrying a globe on his shoulders, as well as various paintings from the Farnese collection. Look up and you’ll find Pietro Bardellino’s riotously colourful 1781 fresco depicting the (short-lived) triumph of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon and Marie Caroline of Austria in Rome.

The rest of the 1st floor is largely devoted to fascinating discoveries from Pompeii, Herculaneum, Boscoreale, Stabiae and Cuma. Among them are whimsical wall frescoes from the Villa di Agrippa Postumus and the Casa di Meleagro, extraordinary bronzes from the Villa dei Papiri, as well as ceramics, glassware, engraved coppers and Greek funerary vases.

Mercato di Porta NolanaMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Porta Nolana; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; mGaribaldi)

Naples at its most vociferous and intense, the Mercato di Porta Nolana is a heady, gritty street market where bellowing fishmongers and greengrocers collide with fragrant delis and bakeries, industrious Chinese traders and contraband cigarette stalls. Dive in for anything from buxom tomatoes and mozzarella to golden-fried street snacks, cheap luggage and bootleg CDs.

The market's namesake is medieval city gate Porta Nolana, which stands at the head of Via Sopramuro. Its two cylindrical towers, optimistically named Faith and Hope, support an arch decorated with a bas-relief of Ferdinand I of Aragon on horseback.

Quartieri Spagnoli, Santa Lucia & Chiaia

1Top Sights

1Certosa e Museo di San MartinoC1

2Galleria BorbonicaD4

3Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos StiglianoE3

4Palazzo RealeE4

1Sights

5Biblioteca NazionaleF4

10MeMusE4

4Sleeping

11Grand Hotel VesuvioE6

12La Ciliegina Lifestyle HotelE3

13Nardones 48D4

14Sui Tetti di NapoliE2

5Eating

15L'Ebbrezza di NoèC3

16Muu Muuzzarella LoungeC4

17PintauroE3

18Ristorantino dell'AvvocatoE6

19Trattoria San FerdinandoE3

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Ba-BarE6

21Caffè GambrinusE4

3Entertainment

22Azzurro ServiceC4

23Box OfficeE3

24Centro di Musica Antica Pietà de' TurchiniD3

25Teatro San CarloE3

7Shopping

26E. MarinellaC5

Vomero

oCertosa e Museo di San MartinoMONASTERY, MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 229 45 03; www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it; Largo San Martino 5; adult/reduced €6/3; h8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue; mVanvitelli, jMontesanto to Morghen)

The high point (quite literally) of the Neapolitan baroque, this charterhouse-turned-museum was founded as a Carthusian monastery in the 14th century. Centred on one of the most beautiful cloisters in Italy, it has been decorated, adorned and altered over the centuries by some of Italy’s finest talent, most importantly Giovanni Antonio Dosio in the 16th century and baroque master Cosimo Fanzago a century later. Nowadays, it’s a superb repository of Neapolitan artistry.

The monastery’s church and the rooms that flank it contain a feast of frescoes and paintings by some of Naples’ greatest 17th-century artists, among them Francesco Solimena, Massimo Stanzione, Giuseppe de Ribera and Battista Caracciolo. In the nave, Cosimo Fanzago’s inlaid marble work is simply extraordinary.

Adjacent to the church, the Chiostro dei Procuratori is the smaller of the monastery’s two cloisters. A grand corridor on the left leads to the larger Chiostro Grande (Great Cloister). Originally designed by Dosio in the late 16th century and added to by Fanzago, it’s a sublime composition of Tuscan-Doric porticoes, marble statues and vibrant camellias. The skulls mounted on the balustrade were a lighthearted reminder to the monks of their own mortality.

Just off the Chiostro dei Procuratori, the small Sezione Navale documents the history of the Bourbon navy from 1734 to 1860, and features a small collection of beautiful royal barges. The Sezione Presepiale houses a whimsical collection of rare Neapolitan presepi (nativity scenes) from the 18th and 19th centuries, including the colossal 18th-century Cuciniello creation, which covers one wall of what used to be the monastery’s kitchen. The Quarto del Priore in the southern wing houses the bulk of the picture collection, as well as one of the museum’s most famous pieces, Pietro Bernini’s tender Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino (Madonna and Child with the Infant John the Baptist).

A pictorial history of Naples is told in Immagini e Memorie di Napoli (Images and Memories of Naples). Here you’ll find portraits of historic characters; antique maps, including a 35-panel copper map of 18th-century Naples in Room 45; and rooms dedicated to major historical events such as the Revolt of the Masaniello (Room 36) and the plague (Room 37). Room 32 boasts the beautiful Tavola Strozzi (Strozzi Table); its fabled depiction of 15th-century maritime Naples is one of the city’s most celebrated historical records.

It's worth noting that some sections of the museum are only open at various times of the day; see the website for specific times.

Below the Certosa is the imposing Sotterranei Gotici (Gothic basement). The austere vaulted space harbours circa 150 marble sculptures and epigraphs, including a statue of St Francis of Assisi by 18th-century master sculptor Giuseppe Sanmartino. Guided tours (in Italian) of the Sotterranei Gotici usually take place at 11.30am on Saturday and Sunday and must be reserved about two weeks in advance by emailing accoglienza.sanmartino@beniculturali.it. Unfortunately, tours were suspended indefinitely in 2017; contact the museum for updates.

Castel Sant'ElmoCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 558 77 08; www.coopculture.it; Via Tito Angelini 22; adult/reduced €5/2.50 Wed-Mon, €2.50/1.25 Tue; hcastle 8.30am-7.30pm daily, museum 9.30am-5pm Wed-Mon; mVanvitelli, jMontesanto to Morghen)

Star-shaped Castel Sant'Elmo was originally a church dedicated to St Erasmus. Some 400 years later, in 1349, Robert of Anjou turned it into a castle before Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo had it further fortified in 1538. Used as a military prison until the 1970s, it's now famed for its jaw-dropping panorama, and for its Museo del Novecento, dedicated to 20th-century Neapolitan art.

The museum's collection of paintings, sculpture and installations documents major influences in the local art scene, including Futurism and the Nuclear Art movement. Standout works include Eugenio Viti's sensual La schiena (The Back) in Room 7, Raffaele Lippi's unnerving Le quattro giornate di Napoli (The Four Days of Naples) in Room 9, and Giuseppe Desiato's magnetic photograph Monumento in Room 18. In Room 17, Salvatore Cotugno's untitled sculpture of a bound, wrapped, muted figure strangely recalls Giuseppe Sanmartino's Cristo velato (Veiled Christ) in the Cappella Sansevero.

Via Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli

oGalleria di Palazzo Zevallos StiglianoGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 42 50 11; www.palazzozevallos.com; Via Toledo 185; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; mMunicipio)

Built for a Spanish merchant in the 17th century and reconfigured in belle époque style by architect Luigi Platania in the early 20th century, Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano houses a compact yet stunning collection of Neapolitan and Italian art spanning the 17th- to early-20th centuries. Star attraction is Caravaggio's mesmerising swansong, The Martyrdom of St Ursula (1610). Completed weeks before the artist's lonely death, the painting depicts a vengeful king of the Huns piercing the heart of his unwilling virgin bride-to-be, Ursula.

Positioned behind the dying martyr is a haunted Caravaggio, an eerie premonition of his own impending fate. The tumultuous history of both the artist and the painting is documented in the free and highly informative tablet audio guide.

Caravaggio's masterpiece is one of around 120 works on display in the palazzo's sumptuous rooms. Among the numerous standouts are Luca Giordano's robust The Rape of Helen, a graphic Judith Beheads Holophernes attributed to Louis Finson, Francesco Solimena's Hagar and Ishmael in the Desert Confronted by the Angel and a series of bronze and terracotta sculptures by Vincenzo Gemito. A fine collection of landscape paintings includes Gasper van Wittel's View of Naples with Largo di Palazzo, which offers a fascinating early-18th-century depiction of what is now Piazza del Plebiscito. The triple-arched fountain in the bottom right corner of the painting is the Fontana dell'Immacolatella. Designed by Michelangelo Naccherini and Pietro Bernini in 1601, the fountain is now located at the corner of Via Partenope and Via Nazario Sauro, beside Borgo Marinaro. Gaspar van Wittel was the father of celebrated Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli.

Santa Lucia & Chiaia

oPalazzo RealePALACE

(Royal Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 40 05 47; Piazza del Plebiscito 1; adult/reduced €4/3; h9am-8pm Thu-Tue; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio)

Envisaged as a 16th-century monument to Spanish glory (Naples was under Spanish rule at the time), the magnificent Palazzo Reale is home to the Museo del Palazzo Reale, a rich and eclectic collection of baroque and neoclassical furnishings, porcelain, tapestries, sculpture and paintings, spread across the palace's royal apartments.

Among the many highlights is the Teatrino di Corte, a lavish private theatre created by Ferdinando Fuga in 1768 to celebrate the marriage of Ferdinand IV and Marie Caroline of Austria. Incredibly, Angelo Viva's statues of Apollo and the Muses set along the walls are made of papier mâché.

Sala (Room) VIII is home to a pair of vivid, allegorical 18th-century French tapestries representing earth and water respectively. Further along, Sala XII will leave you sniggering at the 16th-century canvas Gli esattori delle imposte (The Tax Collectors). Painted by Dutch artist Marinus Claesz Van Reymerswaele, it confirms that attitudes to tax collectors have changed little in 500 years. Sala XIII used to be Joachim Murat's study in the 19th century but was used as a snack bar by Allied troops in WWII. Meanwhile, what looks like a waterwheel in Sala XXIII is actually a nifty rotating reading desk made for Marie Caroline by Giovanni Uldrich in the 18th century.

The Cappella Reale (Royal Chapel) houses an 18th-century presepe napoletano (Neapolitan nativity crib). Fastidiously detailed, its cast of pastori (crib figurines) were crafted by a series of celebrated Neapolitan artists, including Giuseppe Sanmartino, creator of the Cristo velato (Veiled Christ) sculpture in the Cappella Sansevero.

The palace is also home to the Biblioteca Nazionale (National Library; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 781 91 11; www.bnnonline.it; Palazzo Reale, Piazza del Plebiscito; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, papyri exhibition 8.30am-2pm Mon-Fri, Sezione Lucchesi Palli 8.30am-6.45pm Mon-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio), its own priceless treasures including at least 2000 papyri discovered at Herculaneum and fragments of a 5th-century Coptic Bible. The National Library's beautiful Biblioteca Lucchesi Palli (Lucchesi Palli Library; closed Saturday) – designed by some of Naples' most celebrated 19th-century craftspeople – is home to numerous fascinating artistic artefacts, including letters by composer Giuseppe Verdi. Bring photo ID to enter the Biblioteca Nazionale.

oGalleria BorbonicaHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %366 2484151, 081 764 58 08; www.galleriaborbonica.com; Vico del Grottone 4; 75min standard tour adult/reduced €10/5; hstandard tour 10am, noon, 3.30pm & 5.30pm Fri-Sun; gR2 to Via San Carlo)

Traverse five centuries along Naples’ engrossing Bourbon Tunnel. Conceived by Ferdinand II in 1853 to link the Palazzo Reale to the barracks and the sea, the never-completed escape route is part of the 17th-century Carmignano Aqueduct system, itself incorporating 16th-century cisterns. An air-raid shelter and military hospital during WWII, this underground labyrinth rekindles the past with evocative wartime artefacts. The standard tour doesn't require pre-booking, though the Adventure Tour (80 minutes; adult/reduced €15/10) and adults-only Speleo Tour (2½ hours; €30) do.

Tours also depart from Borbonica's second entrance, reached through the Parcheggio Morelli (Via Domenico Morelli 40) parking complex in Chiaia.

MeMusMUSEUM

(Museum & Historical Archive of the Teatro San Carlo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://memus.squarespace.com; Palazzo Reale, Piazza del Plebiscito; adult/reduced €6/5; h9am-7pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, to 3pm Sun; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio)

Located inside the Palazzo Reale (purchase tickets at the palace ticket booth), MeMus documents the history of Europe's oldest working opera house, the Teatro San Carlo. The collection includes costumes, sketches, instruments and memorabilia, displayed in annually changing themed exhibitions. One interactive, immersive exhibit allows visitors to enjoy the music of numerous celebrated composers with accompanying visuals by artists who have collaborated with the opera house, among them William Kentridge.

Castel NuovoCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 795 77 22; Piazza Municipio; adult/reduced €6/3, free Sun; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun; mMunicipio)

Locals know this 13th-century castle as the Maschio Angioino (Angevin Keep) and its Cappella Palatina is home to fragments of frescoes by Giotto; they're on the splays of the Gothic windows. You'll also find Roman ruins under the glass-floored Sala dell'Armeria (Armoury Hall). The castle's upper floors (closed on Sunday) house a collection of mostly 17th- to early-20th-century Neapolitan paintings. The top floor houses the more interesting works, including landscape paintings by Luigi Crisconio and a watercolour by architect Carlo Vanvitelli.

The history of the castle stretches back to Charles I of Anjou, who upon taking over Naples and the Swabians' Sicilian kingdom found himself in control not only of his new southern Italian acquisitions but also of possessions in Tuscany, northern Italy and Provence (France). It made sense to base the new dynasty in Naples, rather than Palermo in Sicily, and Charles launched an ambitious construction program to expand the port and city walls. His plans included converting a Franciscan convent into the castle that still stands in Piazza Municipio.

Christened the Castrum Novum (New Castle) to distinguish it from the older Castel dell'Ovo and Castel Capuano, it was completed in 1282, becoming a popular hang-out for the leading intellectuals and artists of the day – Giotto repaid his royal hosts by painting much of the interior. Of the original structure, however, only the Cappella Palatina remains; the rest is the result of Aragonese renovations two centuries later, as well as a meticulous restoration effort prior to WWII.

The two-storey Renaissance triumphal arch at the entrance – the Torre della Guardia – commemorates the victorious entry of Alfonso I of Aragon into Naples in 1443, while the stark stone Sala dei Baroni (Hall of the Barons) is named after the barons slaughtered here in 1486 for plotting against King Ferdinand I of Aragon. Its striking ribbed vault fuses ancient Roman and Spanish late-Gothic influences.

Castel dell'OvoCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 795 45 93; Borgo Marinaro; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1.45pm Sun; g128 to Via Santa Lucia)F

Built by the Normans in the 12th century, Naples’ oldest castle owes its name (Castle of the Egg) to Virgil. The Roman scribe reputedly buried an egg on the site where the castle now stands, warning that when the egg breaks, the castle (and Naples) will fall. Thankfully, both are still standing, and walking up to the castle's ramparts will reward you with a breathtaking panorama.

Used by the Swabians, Angevins and Alfonso of Aragon, who modified it to suit his military needs, the castle sits on the rocky, restaurant-lined 'island' of Borgo Marinaro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). According to legend, the heartbroken siren Partenope washed ashore here after failing to seduce Ulysses with her song. It's also where the Greeks first settled the city in the 7th century BC, calling the island Megaris. Its commanding position wasn't wasted on the Roman general Lucullus, either, who had his villa here long before the castle hit the skyline. Views aside, the castle is also the setting for temporary art exhibitions, special events, and no shortage of posing brides and grooms.

DON'T MISS

CATACOMBA DI SAN GENNARO

Naples' oldest and most sacred catacombs, Catacombe di San Gennaro ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 744 37 14; www.catacombedinapoli.it; Via Capodimonte 13; adult/reduced €9/5; h1hr tours every hour 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; gR4, 178 to Via Capodimonte), became a Christian pilgrimage site when San Gennaro's body was interred here in the 5th century. The carefully restored site allows visitors to experience an evocative other world of tombs, corridors and broad vestibules, its treasures including 2nd-century Christian frescoes, 5th-century mosaics and the oldest known portrait of San Gennaro.

The catacombs are home to three types of tomb, each corresponding to a specific social class. The wealthy opted for the open-room cubiculum, originally guarded by gates and adorned with colourful wall frescoes. One cubiculum to the left of the entrance features an especially beautiful funerary fresco of a mother, father and child: it's made up of three layers of fresco, one commissioned for each death. The smaller, rectangular wall niches, known as loculum, were the domain of the middle classes, while the forme (floor tombs) were reserved for the poor.

Further ahead you'll stumble upon the basilica minore (minor basilica), home to the tombs of San Gennaro and 5th-century archbishop of Naples Giovanni I. Sometime between 413 and 431, Giovanni I accompanied the martyr's remains from Pozzuoli to Naples, burying them here before Lombard prince Sico I of Benevento snatched them in the 9th century. The basilica minore also harbours fragments of a fresco depicting Naples' first bishop, Sant'Aspreno. The city's bishops were buried here until the 11th century.

Close to the basilica minore is a 3rd-century tomb whose Pompeiian-hued artwork employs both Christian and pagan elements. In the image of three women building a castle, the figures represent the three virtues, while the castle symbolises the Church.

The lower level is even older, dating back to the 2nd century and speckled with typically pagan motifs like fruit and animals. The painting on the side of San Gennaro's tomb – depicting the saint with Mt Vesuvius and Mt Somma in the background – is the first known image of San Gennaro as the protector of Naples. Also on the lower level is the Basilica di Agrippino, named in honour of Sant'Agrippino. The sixth bishop of Naples, Agrippino was also the first Christian to be buried in the catacombs, back in the 3rd century.

Tours of the catacombs are run by the Cooperativa Sociale Onlus 'La Paranza', whose ticket office is to the left of the Chiesa di Madre di Buon Consiglio ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 741 00 06; Via Capodimonte 13; h8am-noon & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 5-7pm Sun; gR4, 178 to Via Capodimonte), a snack-sized replica of St Peter's in Rome completed in 1960. The co-operative also runs a fascinating Sunday morning walking tour called Il Miglio Sacro (The Holy Mile; adult/reduced €15/13), which explores the neighbouring Sanità district. It must be pre-booked; see its website for details.

The catacombs themselves also host occasional theatrical and live-music performances; see the website for upcoming events.

Capodimonte & La Sanità

oPalazzo Reale di CapodimonteMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 749 91 11; www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it; Via Miano 2; adult/reduced €8/4; h8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue; gR4, 178 to Via Capodimonte, shuttle bus Shuttle Capodimonte)

Originally designed as a hunting lodge for Charles VII of Bourbon, this monumental palace was begun in 1738 and took more than a century to complete. It's now home to the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte, southern Italy's largest and richest art gallery. Its vast collection – much of which Charles inherited from his mother, Elisabetta Farnese – was moved here in 1759 and ranges from exquisite 12th-century altarpieces to works by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Titian and Andy Warhol.

The gallery is spread over three floors and 160 rooms; for most people, a full morning or afternoon is enough for an abridged best-of tour. The 1st floor includes works by greats such as Michelangelo, Raphael and Titian, with highlights including Masaccio’s Crocifissione (Crucifixion; Room 3), Botticelli's Madonna col Bambino e due angeli (Madonna with Child and Angels; Room 6), Bellini’s Trasfigurazione (Transfiguration; Room 8) and Parmigianino’s Antea (Room 12). The floor is also home to the royal apartments, a study in regal excess. The Salottino di Porcellana (Room 52) is an outrageous example of 18th-century chinoiserie, its walls and ceiling dense with whimsically themed porcelain ‘stucco’. Originally created between 1757 and 1759 for the Palazzo Reale in Portici, it was transferred to Capodimonte in 1867.

Upstairs, the 2nd-floor galleries display work by Neapolitan artists from the 13th to the 19th centuries, including de Ribera, Giordano, Solimena and Stanzione. It's also home to some spectacular 16th-century Belgian tapestries. The piece that many come to see, however, is Caravaggio’s Flagellazione (Flagellation; 1607–10), which hangs in reverential solitude in Room 78.

If you have any energy left, the small gallery of modern art on the 3rd floor is worth a quick look, if for nothing else than Andy Warhol’s poptastic Mt Vesuvius.

Once you've finished in the museum, the Parco di Capodimonte – the palace's 130-hectare estate – provides a much-needed breath of fresh air.

In 2017, the museum launched a convenient, hourly shuttle bus service that runs between central Naples and the museum. Buses depart from Piazza Trieste e Trento (opposite Teatro San Carlo) and stop outside the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and Catacombe di San Gennaro en route. Return tickets (adult/reduced €12/6) include museum entry and can be purchased directly on the bus.

oCimitero delle FontanelleCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 1970 3197; www.cimiterofontanelle.com; Via Fontanelle 80; h10am-5pm; gC51 to Via Fontanelle)F

Holding about eight million human bones, the ghoulish Fontanelle Cemetery was first used during the 1656 plague, before becoming Naples' main burial site during the 1837 cholera epidemic. At the end of the 19th century it became a hotspot for the anime pezzentelle (poor souls) cult, in which locals adopted skulls and prayed for their souls. Lack of information at the site makes joining a tour much more rewarding; reputable outfits include Cooperativa Sociale Onlus 'La Paranza'.

Avoid guides offering tours at the entrance.

TTours

oCooperativa Sociale Onlus 'La Paranza'TOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 744 37 14; www.catacombedinapoli.it; Via Capodimonte 13; hinformation point 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; gR4, 178 to Via Capodimonte)

Runs tours of the Catacombe di San Gennaro and a fascinating walking tour called Il Miglio Sacro (The Holy Mile), which explores the earthy Sanità district. The walking tour must be pre-booked; see website for details. The ticket office is to the left of the Chiesa di Madre di Buon Consiglio (Via Capodimonte 13).

Napoli SotterraneaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Underground Naples; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 29 69 44; www.napolisotterranea.org; Piazza San Gaetano 68; adult/reduced €10/8; hEnglish tours 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm & 6pm; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo)

This evocative guided tour leads you 40m below street level to explore Naples' ancient labyrinth of aqueducts, passages and cisterns.

The passages were originally hewn by the Greeks to extract tufa stone used in construction and to channel water from Mt Vesuvius. Extended by the Romans, the network of conduits and cisterns was more recently used as an air-raid shelter in WWII. Part of the tour takes place by candlelight via extremely narrow passages – not suitable for expanded girths!

SUBTERRANEAN NAPLES

Mysterious shrines, secret passageways, forgotten burial crypts: it might sound like the set of an Indiana Jones film, but it's actually what lurks beneath Naples' loud and greasy streets. Subterranean Naples is one of the world's most thrilling urban wonderlands; a silent, mostly undiscovered sprawl of cathedral-like cisterns, pin-thin conduits, catacombs and ancient ruins.

Speleologists (cave specialists) estimate that about 60% of Neapolitans live and work above this network, known in Italian as the sottosuolo (underground). Since the end of WWII, some 700 cavities have been discovered, from original Greek-era grottoes to palaeo-Christian burial chambers and royal Bourbon escape routes. According to the experts, this is simply a prelude, with another 2 million sq metres of troglodytic treats to unfurl.

Naples' dedicated caving geeks are quick to tell you that their underworld is one of the largest and oldest on earth. Sure, Paris might claim a catacomb or two, but its subterranean offerings don't come close to this giant's 2500-year history.

And what a history it is. Naples' most famous saint, San Gennaro, was interred in the Catacombe di San Gennaro in the 5th century. A century later, in 536, Belisario and his troops caught Naples by surprise by storming the city through the city's ancient tunnels. According to legend, Alfonso of Aragon used the same trick in 1442, undermining the city walls by using an underground passageway leading into a tailor's shop and straight into town. Even the city's dreaded Camorra has got in on the act. In 1992 the notorious Stolder clan was busted for running a subterranean drug lab, with escape routes heading straight to the clan boss's pad.

zFestivals & Events

Maggio dei MonumentiCULTURAL

(hMay)

A month-long cultural feast, with a bounty of concerts, performances, exhibitions, guided tours and other events across Naples.

Napoli Teatro FestivalTHEATRE

(www.napoliteatrofestival.it; hJun/Jul)

One month of local and international theatre and performance art, staged in conventional and unconventional venues.

Wine & The CityWINE

(www.wineandthecity.it; hMay)

A three-week celebration of regional vino, with free wine tastings and cultural events in palaces, museums, boutiques and eateries throughout the city.

Festa di San GennaroRELIGIOUS

( GOOGLE MAP )

The faithful flock to the Duomo to witness the miraculous liquefaction of San Gennaro's blood on the Saturday before the first Sunday in May. Repeat performances take place on 19 September and 16 December.

4Sleeping

Where to slumber? The centro storico is studded with important churches and sights, artisan studios and student-packed bars. Seafront Santa Lucia delivers grand hotels, while sceney Chiaia is best for fashionable shops and aperitivo bars. The lively, laundry-strung Quartieri Spagnoli is within walking distance of all three neighbourhoods.

B&B Arte e MuseiB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %333 6962469; www.facebook.com/bnbarteemusei; Via Salvator Rosa 345; s €40-50, d €60-100, tr €90-120; aW; mMuseo, Cavour)

Close to the Museo Archeolgico Nazionale, this quiet, artful B&B is adorned with Neapolitan-themed paintings and ceramics by gracious owner and artist Federica. Both the double and triple room include a small balcony and spotless en suite bathroom, while the smaller single room (with double bed) has its private bathroom in the hallway.

All three simple, tasteful rooms are white-washed and clean, with high ceilings and upbeat accents in pistachio and blue. Breakfast is served at a communal table in the dining room, set with colourful crockery made by Federica herself.

Nardones 48APARTMENT€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %338 8818998; www.nardones48.it; Via Nardones 48; small apt €65-74, large apt €85-140; aW; gR2 to Via San Carlo)

White-on-white Nardones 48 serves up seven smart mini-apartments in a historic Quartieri Spagnoli building. The five largest apartments, each with mezzanine bedroom, accommodate up to four; the two smallest, each with sofa bed, accommodate up to two. Three apartments boast a panoramic terrace, and all have modern kitchenette, flat-screen TV and contemporary bathroom with spacious shower.

Stays of one week or longer enjoy discounted rates and complimentary laundry service, and the apartment offers nearby parking (€20 per 24 hours).

Casa LatinaB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %338 9264453; www.casalatina.it; Vico Cinquesanti 47; s €40-55, d €55-75, tr €70-90, q €85-100; aW; mPiazza Cavour, Museo)

Creativity and style flow through this crisp new B&B, accented with eclectic lighting, boho photography, a fully equipped kitchen and a tranquil terrace. All four rooms are soothing and contemporary, with original architectural detailing and fetching bathrooms with recycled terracotta basins. One upper-level room features a tatami-style bed and banquettes, the latter transforming into extra bed space (ideal for young families).

Cerasiello B&BB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 033 09 77, 338 9264453; www.cerasiello.it; Via Supportico Lopez 20; s €40-85, d €60-100, tr €75-110, q €90-125; aW; mPiazza Cavour, Museo)

This gorgeous B&B consists of four rooms with private bathrooms, an enchanting communal terrace and an ethno-chic look melding Neapolitan art with North African furnishings. The stylish kitchen offers a fabulous view of the Certosa di San Martino, a view shared by all rooms (or their bathroom) except Fuoco (Fire), which looks out at a beautiful church cupola.

Although technically in the Sanità district, the B&B is a short walk from Naples' centro storico (historic centre). Bring €0.20 for the lift.

Sui Tetti di NapoliB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %338 9264453, 081 033 09 77; www.suitettidinapoli.net; Vico Figuerelle a Montecalvario 6; s €35-60, d €45-80, tr €60-95, q €80-105; aW; mToledo)

A block away from Via Toledo, this well-priced B&B is more like four apartments atop a thigh-toning stairwell. While two apartments share a small terrace, the rooftop option boasts its own, complete with mesmerising views. Recently refurbished, all apartments include a kitchenette (the cheapest two share a kitchen), simple, crisp, modern furnishings and comfy, new, memory-foam mattresses.

oAtelier InesB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 4433422; www.atelierinesgallery.com; Via Cristallini 138; d €125-150; aW)

A stylish, eclectic oasis in the heart of the earthy Sanità district, this three-suite B&B is a homage to the late Neapolitan sculptor and designer Annibale Oste, whose workshop shares a leafy courtyard. Everything from the lamps and spiral towel racks to the one-of-a-kind sculptural bedheads are Oste's whimsical designs, complimented by heavenly mattresses, a choice of pillows, and Vietri-ceramic bathrooms with satisfying hot water.

Multilingual host Ines and her partner Vincenzo (Annibale's son) are gracious and passionate about their city, while breakfast is a mostly made-from-scratch affair, with house-made jams, yoghurt and cakes, as well as farm-fresh scrambled eggs and organic fruit. Guests are welcome to explore Oste's workshop and archive.

oLa Ciliegina Lifestyle HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 1971 8800; www.cilieginahotel.it; Via PE Imbriani 30; d €160-300, junior ste €200-400; aiW; mMunicipio)

An easy walk from the hydrofoil terminal, this chic, contemporary slumber spot is a hit with fashion-conscious urbanites. Spacious white rooms are splashed with blue and red accents, each with top-of-the-range Hästens beds, flat-screen TVs and marble-clad bathrooms with a water-jet Jacuzzi shower (one junior suite has a Jacuzzi tub).

Breakfast in bed, or on the rooftop terrace, which comes with sunbeds, hot tub and a view of Vesuvius. Complimentary iPad use is a nice touch.

oHotel Piazza BelliniBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 45 17 32; www.hotelpiazzabellini.com; Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 101; d €58-170; aiW; mDante)

Only steps from buzzing Piazza Bellini, this sharp, contemporary hotel occupies a 16th-century palazzo (mansion), its mint white spaces spiked with original majolica tiles and the work of emerging artists. Rooms offer pared-back cool, with designer fittings, chic bathrooms and mirror frames drawn straight onto the wall. Rooms on the 5th and 6th floors feature panoramic terraces.

Check the hotel website for decent discounts.

Decumani Hotel de CharmeBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 551 81 88; www.decumani.it; Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli 15; s €99-124, d €99-164; aiW; mUniversità)

This classic boutique hotel occupies the former palazzo of Cardinal Sisto Riario Sforza, the last bishop of the Bourbon kingdom. Its simple, stylish 42 rooms feature high ceilings, parquet floors, 19th-century furniture, and modern bathrooms with spacious showers. Deluxe rooms crank up the dolce vita with personal hot tubs. The pièce de résistance, however, is the property's breathtaking baroque salon.

Grand Hotel VesuvioHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope 45; s/d €280/310; aiW; g128 to Via Santa Lucia)

Known for hosting legends – past guests include Rita Hayworth and Humphrey Bogart – this five-star heavyweight is a decadent melange of dripping chandeliers, period antiques and opulent rooms. Count your lucky stars while drinking a martini at the rooftop restaurant.

5Eating

Naples is one of Italy's gastronomic darlings, and the bonus of a bayside setting makes for some seriously memorable meals. While white linen, candlelight and €50 bills are readily available, some of the best bites await in the city's spit-and-sawdust trattorias, where two courses and house wine can cost under €20. Even cheaper is Naples' plethora of top-notch pizzerias and friggitorie (fried-food kiosks). On the downside, many eateries close for two weeks in August, so call ahead if visiting then.

oSalumeriaBISTRO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 1936 4649; www.salumeriaupnea.it; Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli 34/35; sandwiches from €4.90, charcuterie platters from €8, meals around €22; hnoon-5.30pm & 7pm-midnight Mon, Tue & Thu, 7pm-midnight Wed, 7pm-12.30am Fri, 10am-12.30am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; W; mDante)

Small producers, local ingredients and contemporary takes on provincial Campanian recipes drive bistro-inspired Salumeria. Nibble on quality charcuterie and cheeses or fill up on artisanal panini, hamburgers and daily specials that might include pasta with a rich ragù napoletano sauce slow-cooked over two days. Even the ketchup here is made in-house, using DOP Piennolo tomatoes from Vesuvius.

On weekend mornings, don't miss the polacca, a cornetto-like pastry filled with custard and cherries. Libations include Campanian craft beers and the venue hosts rotating exhibitions of contemporary, Neapolitan-themed art.

oPizzeria StaritaPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 557 36 82; Via Materdei 28; pizzas from €3.50; hnoon-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight Tue-Sun; mMaterdei)

The giant fork and ladle hanging on the wall at this historic pizzeria were used by Sophia Loren in L'Oro di Napoli, and the kitchen made the pizze fritte sold by the actress in the film. While the 60-plus pizza varieties include a tasty fiorilli e zucchine (zucchini, zucchini flowers and provola), our allegiance remains to its classic marinara.

oMuu Muuzzarella LoungeNEAPOLITAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 40 53 70; www.muumuuzzarellalounge.it; Vico II Alabardieri 7; dishes €7-16; h12.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W; gC24 to Riviera di Chiaia)

Pimped with milking-bucket lights and cow-hide patterned cushions, playful, contemporary Muu is all about super-fresh Campanian mozzarella, from cheese and charcuterie platters to creative dishes like buffalo bocconcini with creamy pesto and crunchy apple. Leave room for the chef's secret recipe white-chocolate cheesecake, best paired with a glass of Guappa (buffalo-milk liqueur).

SerafinoSICILIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 557 14 33; Via dei Tribunali 44; arancini €2.50, cannoli €2.50; h11.30am-10pm)

A veritable porthole to Sicily, this takeaway stand peddles authentic island street food. Savoury bites include various types of arancini (deep-fried rice balls), among them al ragù (with meat sauce) and alla Norma (with fried eggplant and ricotta). The real reason to head here, however, is for the crisp, flawless cannoli, filled fresh with silky Sicilian ricotta and sprinkled with pistachio crumbs. Bliss.

Pizzeria Gino SorbilloPIZZA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 44 66 43; www.sorbillo.it; Via dei Tribunali 32; pizzas from €3; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W; mDante)

Day in, day out, this cult-status pizzeria is besieged by hungry hordes. While debate may rage over whether Gino Sorbillo's pizzas are the best in town, there's no doubt that his giant, wood-fired discs – made using organic flour and tomatoes – will have you licking fingertips and whiskers. Head in super early or prepare to wait.

PintauroPASTRIES€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 41 73 39; Via Toledo 275; sfogliatelle €2; h9am-8pm, closed mid-Jul–early Sep; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio)

Of Neapolitan dolci (sweets), the cream of the crop is the sfogliatella, a shell of flaky pastry stuffed with creamy, scented ricotta. This local institution has been selling sfogliatelle since the early 1800s, when its founder supposedly brought them to Naples from their culinary birthplace on the Amalfi Coast. The pastry comes in two versions: frolla (shortcrust pastry) and riccia (filo-style pastry).

oBenvenuti al SudNEAPOLITAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 1934 9334; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 9; pizzas from €4.50, meals around €25; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun; mMergellina)

Its walls splashed with technicolour murals of market produce and Neapolitan vistas, this friendly, upbeat pizzeria-cum-trattoria flips great Neapolitan pie, from simple marinara (tomato, oregano, garlic and olive oil) to lesser-known classic montanara, which sees the base lightly fried before being topped and baked in the oven for a lovely sheen and crackle. Beyond the pizzas are some fantastic seafood pasta dishes.

oEccellenze CampaneNEAPOLITAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 20 36 57; www.eccellenzecampane.it; Via Benedetto Brin 49; pizza from €6, meals around €30; hcomplex 7am-11pm Sun-Fri, to 12.30am Sat, restaurants 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11pm Sun-Fri, to 12.30am Sat; W; g192, 460, 472, 475)

This is Naples' answer to Turin-based food emporium Eataly, an impressive, contemporary showcase for top-notch Campanian comestibles. The sprawling space is divided into various dining and shopping sections, offering everything from beautifully charred pizzas and light fritture (fried snacks) to finer-dining seafood, lust-inducing pastries, craft beers and no shortage of take-home pantry treats. A must for gastronomes.

oL'Ebbrezza di NoèNEAPOLITAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 40 01 04; www.lebbrezzadinoe.com; Vico Vetriera 9; meals around €37; h6pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, noon-3pm Sun; W; mPiazza Amedeo)

A wine shop by day, 'Noah's Drunkenness' transforms into an intimate culinary hotspot by night. Slip inside for vino and conversation at the bar, or settle into one of the bottle-lined dining rooms for seductive, market-driven dishes such as house special paccheri fritti (fried pasta stuffed with eggplant and served with fresh basil and a rich tomato sauce).

Topping it off are circa 2800 wines, artfully selected by sommelier owner Luca Di Leva. Book ahead.

oRistorantino dell'AvvocatoNEAPOLITAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 032 00 47; www.ilristorantinodellavvocato.it; Via Santa Lucia 115-117; meals €40-45; hnoon-3pm daily, also 7-11pm Tue-Sat; W; g128 to Via Santa Lucia)

This elegant yet welcoming restaurant is a favourite of Neapolitan gastronomes. Apple of their eye is affable lawyer turned head chef Raffaele Cardillo, whose passion for Campania's culinary heritage merges with a knack for subtle, refreshing twists – think coffee papardelle served with mullet ragù.

The degustation menus (€45 to €60) are good value, as is the weekday 'three courses on a plate' lunch special. Book ahead Thursday to Saturday.

La Taverna di Santa ChiaraNEAPOLITAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 048 49 08; Via Santa Chiara 6; meals €25; h1-2.30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 3pm Fri-Sun, 8-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W; mDante)

Gragnano pasta, Agerola pork, concato romano: this modest, two-level eatery is healthily obsessed with small, local producers and Slow Food ingredients. The result is a beautiful, seasonal journey across Campania.

For an inspiring overview, order the rustic antipasto di terra (an antipasto of cheese and cured meats), then tuck into lesser-known dishes like genovese di polipo (a rich onion and octopus pasta dish) with wine from a lesser-known regional winemaker or a Campanian craft brew.

Trattoria San FerdinandoNEAPOLITAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 42 19 64; Via Nardones 117; meals €25-32; h12.30-3.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30-11pm Tue-Fri; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio)

Hung with theatre posters, cosy San Ferdinando pulls in well-spoken theatre types and intellectuals. For a Neapolitan taste trip, ask for a rundown of the day's antipasti and choose your favourites for an antipasto misto (mixed antipasto). Seafood standouts include a delicate seppia ripieno (stuffed squid), while the homemade desserts make for a satisfying dénouement.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Neapolitans aren't big drinkers, and in the centro storico many people simply buy a bottle of beer from the nearest bar and hang out on the streets. Here, drinking hotspots include Piazza Bellini and Calata Trinità Maggiore off Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, where a high concentration of students, artists and bohemians lend an energetic, live-and-let-live vibe. Those after fashion-conscious prosecco sessions should aim for Chiaia's sleek bars, famed for their aperitivo spreads (gourmet nibbles for the price of a drink, nightly from around 6.30pm to 9.30pm). Popular strips include Via Ferrigni, Via Bisignano and Vico Belledonne a Chiaia.

oBa-BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 764 35 25; www.ba-bar.it; Via Santa Lucia 169; g128 to Via Santa Lucia)

Don't be fooled by the faux British-pub exterior. With its muted colour palette, soft lighting and subtle nautical motif, Ba-Bar sets a sophisticated scene for well-crafted cocktails made using fresh ingredients. A short, detail-orientated food menu includes the likes of sesame baguette stuffed with Campanian provola cheese, culatello (air-cured ham) and hazelnuts, not to mention regional staple parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmigiana).

oDonna RomitaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 1851 5074; www.donnaromita.it; Vico Donnaromita 14; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun; W)

Part of Napoli's new guard of genuinely hip, on-point drinking holes, Donna Romita eschews video screens, unflattering lighting and tacky decor for an architecturally designed combo of minimalist concrete, industrial lighting, sculptural furniture and well-crafted drinks. Not surprisingly, it's a hit with arty, cosmopolitan centro storico (historic centre) types.

Food options include artisan cheeses and salumi (charcuterie), and there's a sleek dining room downstairs serving gorgeous, locavore fare with competent modern tweaks.

Caffè GambrinusCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 41 75 82; www.grancaffegambrinus.com; Via Chiaia 1-2; h7am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio)

Grand, chandeliered Gambrinus is Naples' oldest and most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde knocked back a few here and Mussolini had some of the rooms shut to keep out left-wing intellectuals. The prices may be steep, but the aperitivo nibbles are decent and sipping a spritz or a luscious cioccolata calda (hot chocolate) in its belle époque rooms is something worth savouring.

Spazio NeaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 45 13 58; www.spazionea.it; Via Constantinopoli 53; h9am-2am, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; mDante)

Aptly skirting bohemian Piazza Bellini, this whitewashed gallery features its own cafe-bar speckled with books, flowers, cultured crowds and alfresco seating at the bottom of a baroque staircase. Eye up exhibitions of contemporary Italian and foreign art, then kick back with a caffé or a spritz. Check Nea's Facebook page for upcoming readings, live music gigs or DJ sets.

Bites include bountiful salads.

3Entertainment

Although Naples is no London, Milan or Melbourne on the entertainment front, it does offer some top after-dark options, from opera and ballet to thought-provoking theatre and cultured classical ensembles. To see what's on, scan daily papers like Corriere del Mezzogiorno or La Repubblica (Naples edition), click onto www.napoliunplugged.com, or ask at the tourist office. In smaller venues you can usually buy your ticket at the door; for bigger events try the box office inside Feltrinelli ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 032 23 62; www.azzurroservice.net; Feltrinelli Bookstore, Piazza dei Martiri 23; h11am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat; gC24 to Piazza dei Martiri), or Box Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 551 91 88; www.boxofficenapoli.it; Galleria Umberto I 17; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Sat; gR2 to Piazza Trieste e Trento, mMunicipio).

oTeatro San CarloOPERA, BALLET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 797 23 31; www.teatrosancarlo.it; Via San Carlo 98; hbox office 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio)

San Carlo's opera season usually runs from November or December to June, with occasional summer performances. Reckon on €50 for a place in the sixth tier, €100 for a seat in the stalls or – if you're under 30 (with ID) – €30 for a place in a side box. The ballet season generally runs from late October to April or early May. Ballet tickets range from €35 to €80, with €20 tickets for those under 30.

oLanificio 25LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lanificio25.it; Piazza Enrico De Nicola 46; free-€10; hvaries; mGaribaldi)

This Bourbon-era wool factory and 15th-century cloister is now a burgeoning party and culture hub, strung with coloured lights and awash with video projections. Live music and performances are the mainstay, ranging from cabaret acts to mostly Italian outfits playing indie, rock, world music and electronica to an easy, arty, cosmopolitan crowd. Check the website or Facebook page for upcoming events.

oStadio San PaoloFOOTBALL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazzale Vincenzo Tecchio; mNapoli Campi Flegrei)

Naples' football team, Napoli, is the third most supported in Italy after Juventus and Milan, and watching it play in the country's third-largest stadium is a rush. The season runs from late August to late May; seats cost from around €20 to €100. Tickets are available from selected tobacconists, the agency inside Feltrinelli, or Box Office; bring photo ID.

On match days, tickets are also available at the stadium itself.

Centro di Musica Antica Pietà de' TurchiniCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 40 23 95; www.turchini.it; Via Santa Caterina da Siena 38; jCentrale to Corso Vittorio Emanuele)

Classical-music buffs are in for a treat at this beautiful deconsecrated church, an evocative setting for concerts of mostly 17th- to 19th-century Neapolitan works. Tickets usually cost €10 (reduced €7), and upcoming concerts are listed on the venue's website. Note that some concerts are held at the elegant Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano on Via Toledo.

7Shopping

Bottega 21FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 033 55 42; www.bottegaventuno.it; Vico San Domenico Maggiore 21; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)

Top-notch Tuscan leather and traditional, handcrafted methods translate into coveted, contemporary leather goods at Bottega 21. Block colours and clean, simple designs underline the range, which includes stylish totes, handbags, backpacks and duffel bags, as well as wallets and coin purses, unisex belts, notebook covers and tobacco pouches. A solid choice for those who prefer to shop local and independent.

La ScarabattolaARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 29 17 35; www.lascarabattola.it; Via dei Tribunali 50; h10.30am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; gE1, E2 to Via Duomo)

Not only do La Scarabattola's handmade sculptures of magi (wise men), devils and Neapolitan folk figures constitute Jerusalem's official Christmas crèche, the artisan studio's fans include fashion designer Stefano Gabbana and Spanish royalty. Figurines aside, sleek ceramic creations (think Pulcinella-inspired place-card holders) inject Neapolitan folklore with refreshing contemporary style.

E. MarinellaFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 764 32 65; www.marinellanapoli.it; Via Riviera di Chiaia 287; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; gC25 to Riviera di Chiaia, C24 to Piazza dei Martiri)

One-time favourite of Luchino Visconti and Aristotle Onassis, this pocket-sized, vintage boutique is the place for prêt-à-porter and made-to-measure silk ties in striking patterns and hues. Match them with an irresistible selection of luxury accessories, including shoes, vintage colognes, and scarves for female style queens.

8Information

Medical Services

Loreto Mare Hospital (Ospedale S. Maria di Loreto Nuovo; GOOGLE MAP ; %081 254 21 11; www.aslnapoli1centro.it/818; Via Vespucci 26; g154) Central-city hospital with an emergency department.

Pharmacy ( GOOGLE MAP ; Stazione Centrale; h7am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun) Pharmacy inside the main train station.

Post

Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 552 44 10; www.posteitaliane.it; Piazza Matteotti 2) Naples' curvaceous main post office is famous for its Fascist-era architecture.

Tourist Information

Tourist Information Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 26 87 79; Stazione Centrale; h9am-8pm; mGaribaldi) Tourist office inside Stazione Centrale (Central Station).

Tourist Information Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 551 27 01; www.inaples.it; Piazza del Gesù Nuovo 7; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun; mDante) Tourist office in the centro storico.

Tourist Information Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 40 23 94; www.inaples.it; Via San Carlo 9; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio) Tourist office at Galleria Umberto I, directly opposite Teatro San Carlo.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Naples International Airport (Capodichino) ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 789 62 59; www.aeroportodinapoli.it), 7km northeast of the city centre, is southern Italy's main airport, linking Naples with most Italian and several other European cities, as well as New York. Budget carrier easyJet operates several routes to/from Capodichino, including London, Paris, Brussels and Berlin.

Boat

Fast ferries and hydrofoils for Capri, Ischia, Procida and Sorrento depart from Molo Beverello ( GOOGLE MAP ) in front of Castel Nuovo; hydrofoils for Capri, Ischia and Procida also sail from Mergellina.

Ferries for Sicily, the Aeolian Islands and Sardinia sail from Molo Angioino ( GOOGLE MAP ) (right beside Molo Beverello) and neighbouring Calata Porta di Massa ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Bus

Most national and international buses leave from Terminal Bus Metropark ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 65 00 06; Corso Arnaldo Lucci; mGaribaldi), located on the southern side of Stazione Centrale. The bus station is home to Biglietteria Vecchione ( GOOGLE MAP ; %331 88969217, 081 563 03 20; www.biglietteriavecchione.it; Corso Arnaldo Lucci, Terminal Bus Metropark; h6.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun; mGaribaldi), a ticket agency selling national and international bus tickets.

Terminal Bus Metropark serves numerous bus companies offering regional and inter-regional services, among them FlixBus (www.flixbus.com). The bus stop for SITA Sud (%344 1031070; www.sitasudtrasporti.it) services to the Amalfi Coast is just around the corner on Via Galileo Ferraris (in front of the hulking Istituto Nazionale della Previdenza Sociale office building).

Car & Motorcycle

Naples is on the north–south Autostrada del Sole, the A1 (north to Rome and Milan) and the A3 (south to Salerno and Reggio di Calabria).

Train

Naples is southern Italy's rail hub and on the main Milan–Palermo line, with good connections to other Italian cities and towns.

National rail company Trenitalia (%892 021; www.trenitalia.com) runs regular services to Rome (2nd class €12 to €45, 70 minutes to three hours, up to 69 daily). High-speed private rail company Italo (%892 020; www.italotreno.it) also runs daily services to Rome (2nd class €15 to €39, 70 minutes, up to 17 daily). Most Italo services stop at Roma Termini and Roma Tiburtina stations.

8Getting Around

Bus

A much cheaper alternative to a taxi, airport shuttle Alibus (%800 639 525; www.anm.it) connects the airport to Via Novara ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Novara) (in front of the Deutsche Bank branch opposite Stazione Centrale) and the ferry port Molo Angioino ( GOOGLE MAP ) (€4, 45 minutes, every 15 to 20 minutes). Buy tickets on board or from selected tobacconists.

ANM (%800 639525; www.anm.it) buses serve the city and its periphery. Many routes pass through Piazza Garibaldi.

Funicular

Three services connect central Naples to Vomero, while a fourth connects Mergellina to Posillipo.

Funiculare Centrale ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.anm.it; h6.30am-10pm Mon & Tue, to 12.30am Wed-Sun & holidays) Travels from Piazzetta Augusteo to Piazza Fuga. Expected to reopen in early 2018.

Funiculare di Chiaia ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.anm.it; h7am-10pm Wed & Thu, to 12.30am Sun-Tue, to 2am Fri & Sat) Travels from Via del Parco Margherita to Via Domenico Cimarosa.

Funiculare di Montesanto (h7am-10pm) Travels from Piazza Montesanto to Via Raffaele Morghen.

Funiculare di Mergellina (h7am-10pm) Connects the waterfront at Via Mergellina with Via Manzoni.

Metro

Metro Line 1 (Linea 1; www.anm.it) runs from Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale) to Vomero and the northern suburbs via the city centre. Useful stops include Duomo and Università (southern edge of the centro storico), Municipio (hydrofoil and ferry terminals), Toledo (Via Toledo and Quartieri Spagnoli), Dante (western edge of the centro storico) and Museo (National Archaeological Museum).

Metro Line 2 (Linea 2; www.trenitalia.com) runs from Gianturco to Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale) and on to Pozzuoli. Useful stops include Piazza Cavour (La Sanità and northern edge of centro storico), Piazza Amedeo (Chiaia) and Mergellina (Mergellina ferry terminal). Change between lines 1 and 2 at Garibaldi or Piazza Cavour (known as Museo on Line 1).

Metro Line 6 (Linea 6; www.anm.it) is a light-rail service running between Mergellina and Mostra.

Taxi

Official fares from the airport are as follows: €23 to a seafront hotel or to Mergellina hydrofoil terminal; €19 to Piazza del Municipio or Molo Beverello ferry terminal; and €16 to Stazione Centrale and the centro storico (historic centre).

Book a taxi by calling any of the following companies:

Consortaxi (%081 22 22; www.consortaxi.com)

Taxi Napoli (%081 88 88; www.taxinapoli.it)

Radio Taxi La Partenope (%081 01 01; www.radiotaxilapartenope.it)

WORTH A TRIP

REGGIA DI CASERTA

The one compelling reason to visit the town of Caserta, 30km north of Naples, is to gasp at the colossal, World Heritage–listed Reggia di Caserta. Italy's swansong to the baroque, the complex began life in 1752 after Charles VII ordered a palace to rival Versailles. Not one to disappoint, Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli delivered a palace bigger than its French rival. With its 1200 rooms, 1790 windows, 34 staircases and 250m-long facade, it was reputedly the largest building in 18th-century Europe.

Vanvitelli's immense staircase leads up to the royal apartments, lavishly decorated with frescoes, art, tapestries, period furniture and crystal.

The restored back rooms off the Sala di Astrea (Room of Astraea) house an extraordinary collection of historic wooden models of the Reggia, along with architectural drawings and early sketches of the building by Luigi Vanvitelli and his son, Carlo. The apartments are also home to the Mostra Terrea Motus, an underrated collection of international modern art commissioned after the region's devastating earthquake in 1980. Among the contributors are US heavyweights Cy Twombly, Robert Mapplethorpe and Keith Haring, as well as local luminaries like Mimmo Paladino and Jannis Kounellis.

The complex has appeared in numerous films, including Mission: Impossible 3, Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace and Star Wars Episode 2: Attack of the Clones, moonlighting as Queen Amidala's palace in the latter two.

To clear your head afterwards, explore the elegant landscaped park, which stretches for some 3km to a waterfall and a fountain of Diana. Within the park is the famous Giardino Inglese (English Garden), a romantic oasis of intricate pathways, exotic flora, pools and cascades. Bicycle hire (from €4) is available at the back of the palace building, as are pony-and-trap rides (€50 for 30 minutes, up to five people). Ignore the illegal souvenir hawkers roaming the grounds.

If you're feeling peckish, consider skipping the touristy palace cafeteria for local cafe Martucci, located 250m east of the complex. Great coffee aside, the counters here heave with freshly made panini (sandwiches), salads, vegetable dishes, pastries and substantial cooked-to-order meals.

Regular trains connect Naples to Caserta (€3.10, 30 to 50 minutes); always plan ahead and check times online before hitting the station. Caserta train station is located directly opposite the palace grounds. If you're driving, follow signs for the Reggia.

Bay of Naples

Capri

%081 / Pop 14,200

Capri's fabled beauty and refined hedonism has charmed them all, from Roman rulers and Russian revolutionaries to Hollywood legends. It’s the perfect microcosm of Mediterranean appeal, a fusion of glittering grottoes and coves, Roman ruins and chichi piazzas.

Already inhabited in the Palaeolithic period, the island was briefly occupied by the Greeks before Emperor Augustus made it his private playground and Tiberius retired here in AD 27. Its modern incarnation as a tourist centre dates from the early 20th century.

It’s also a favourite day-trip destination and a summer favourite of holidaying VIPs. Inevitably, the two main centres, Capri Town and its uphill rival Anacapri, are almost entirely given over to tourism, with the high prices that follow. But explore beyond the designer boutiques and cafes and you’ll find that Capri retains an unspoilt charm, with grand villas, overgrown vegetable plots, sun-bleached, peeling stucco and banks of brilliantly coloured bougainvillea.

Capri

1Top Sights

1Grotta AzzurraB1

2Seggiovia del Monte SolaroC2

3Villa JovisG1

4Villa San Michele di Axel MuntheC1

1Sights

5Arco NaturaleF2

6Certosa di San GiacomoE3

7Chiesa di Santo StefanoG4

8Giardini di AugustoE3

9Piazza Umberto IG4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10Banana SportE1

11Capri WhalesE1

4Sleeping

12Capri PalaceC1

13Casa MariantoniaC2

14Grand Hotel QuisisanaE2

15Hotel Villa EvaB1

5Eating

16È DivinoG4

17Il GeranioE2

18Le GrottelleF2

19Raffaele BuonacoreG4

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Caffè MichelangeloC2

21Taverna Anema e CoreG4

7Shopping

22Carthusia I Profumi di CapriE2

23Limoncello di CapriC1

1Sights

Capri Town & Around

With its whitewashed stone buildings and tiny, car-free streets, Capri Town exudes a cinematic air. A diminutive model of upmarket Mediterranean chic, it’s a well-tended playground of luxury hotels, expensive bars, smart restaurants and high-end boutiques. In summer the centre swells with crowds of camera-wielding day trippers and yacht-owning playboys (and girls), but don't be put off from exploring the atmospheric and ancient side streets, where the crowds quickly thin. The walk west out of town to Villa Jovis is especially wonderful.

oVilla JovisRUINS

(Jupiter’s Villa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via A Maiuri; adult/reduced €4/2; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon Jun, to 7pm Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year, closed Jan–mid-Mar)

A 45-minute walk east of Capri along Via Tiberio, Villa Jovis was the largest and most sumptuous of the island’s 12 Roman villas and Tiberius’ main Capri residence. A vast pleasure complex, now reduced to ruins, it famously pandered to the emperor’s supposedly debauched tastes, and included imperial quarters and extensive bathing areas set in dense gardens and woodland.

The villa's spectacular location posed major headaches for Tiberius’ architects. The main problem was how to collect and store enough water to supply the villa’s baths and 3000-sq-metre gardens. The solution they eventually hit upon was to build a complex canal system to transport rainwater to four giant storage tanks, whose remains you can still see today.

Beside the ticket office is the 330m-high Salto di Tiberio (Tiberius’ Leap), a sheer cliff from where, as the story goes, Tiberius had out-of-favour subjects hurled into the sea. True or not, the stunning views are real enough; if you suffer from vertigo, tread carefully.

A shortish but steep walk from the villa, down Via Tiberio and Via Matermània, is the Arco Naturale ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) – an imposing, Palaeolithic-era rock arch formed by the pounding sea; you can time this walk to take in lunch at nearby Le Grotelle.

Giardini di AugustoGARDENS

(Gardens of Augustus; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; €1; h9am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar)

As their name suggests, these gardens near the Certosa di San Giacomo were founded by Emperor Augustus. Rising in a series of flowered terraces, they lead to a lookout point offering breathtaking views over to the Isole Faraglioni, a group of three limestone stacks rising out of the sea.

Measuring 109m, 81m and 104m respectively, the isole are home to a rare blue lizard that was once thought to be unique to the Faraglioni but has since been found on the Sicilian coast.

From the gardens, pretty, hairpin Via Krupp winds down to Marina Piccola and past a bust of Lenin overlooking the road from a nearby platform. The Russian revolutionary visited Capri in 1908, during which time he was famously snapped engaged in a game of chess with fellow revolutionary Alexander Bogdanov. Looking on in the photograph is Russian writer Maxim Gorki, who called the island home between 1906 and 1909.

Certosa di San GiacomoMONASTERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 62 18; Viale Certosa 40; adult/reduced €4/2; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Aug, to 5pm Sep-Dec, to 2pm Jan-Mar)

Founded in 1363, this picturesque monastery is generally considered to be the finest remaining example of Caprese architecture and today houses a school, a library, a temporary exhibition space and a museum with some evocative 17th-century paintings. Be sure to look at the two cloisters, which have a real sense of faded glory (the smaller is 14th century, the larger 16th century).

To get here take Via Vittorio Emanuele III, east of Piazza Umberto I, which meanders down to the monastery.

The monastery's history is a harrowing one: it became the stronghold of the island's powerful Carthusian fraternity and was viciously attacked during Saracen pirate raids in the 16th century. A century later, monks retreated here to avoid the plague and were rewarded by an irate public (whom they should have been tending), who tossed corpses over the walls. There are some soothing 17th-century frescoes in the church, which will hopefully serve as an antidote as you contemplate the monastery's dark past.

Piazza Umberto IPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Located beneath the 17th-century clock tower and framed by see-and-be-seen cafes, this showy, open-air salon is central to your Capri experience, especially in the evening when the main activity in these parts is dressing up and hanging out. Be prepared for the cost of these front-row seats – the moment you sit down for a drink, you’re going to pay handsomely for the grandstand views (around €6 for a cappuccino and €16 for a couple of glasses of white wine).

Chiesa di Santo StefanoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 23 96; Piazza Umberto I; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-2pm rest of year)

Overlooking Piazza Umberto I, this baroque 17th-century church boasts a well-preserved marble floor (taken from Villa Jovis) and a statue of San Costanzo, Capri’s patron saint. Note the pair of languidly reclining patricians in the chapel to the south of the main altar, who seem to mirror some of the mildly debauched folk in the cafes outside. Beside the northern chapel is a reliquary with a saintly bone that reputedly saved Capri from the plague in the 19th century.

DON'T MISS

GROTTO AZZURRA

Capri’s single most famous attraction is the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; €14; h9am-5pm), a stunning sea cave illuminated by an other-worldly blue light. The easiest way to visit is to take a tour ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 56 46; www.motoscafisticapri.com; Private Pier 0, Marina Grande; €15) from Marina Grande; tickets include the return boat trip but the rowing boat into the cave and admission are paid separately. Allow a good hour.

The grotto had long been known to local fishermen when it was rediscovered by two Germans – writer Augustus Kopisch and painter Ernst Fries – in 1826. Subsequent research, however, revealed that Emperor Tiberius had built a quay in the cave around AD 30, complete with a nymphaeum (shrine to the water nymph). Remarkably, you can still see the carved Roman landing stage towards the rear of the cave.

Measuring 54m by 30m and rising to a height of 15m, the grotto is said to have sunk by up to 20m in prehistoric times, blocking every opening except the 1.3m-high entrance. And this is the key to the magical blue light. Sunlight enters through a small underwater aperture and is refracted through the water; this, combined with the reflection of the light off the white sandy seafloor, produces the vivid blue effect to which the cave owes its name.

The grotto is closed if the sea is too choppy and swimming in it is forbidden, although you can swim outside the entrance – get a bus to Grotta Azzurra, take the stairs down to the right and dive off the small concrete platform. When visiting, keep in mind that the singing ‘captains’ are included in the price, so don’t feel any obligation if they push for a tip.

Anacapri & Around

Traditionally Capri Town’s more subdued neighbour, Anacapri is no stranger to tourism. The focus is largely limited to Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe and the souvenir stores on the main streets. Delve further, though, and you’ll discover that Anacapri is still, at heart, the laid-back, rural village that it’s always been.

oSeggiovia del Monte SolaroCABLE CAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 14 38; www.capriseggiovia.it; single/return €8/11; h9.30am-5pm May-Oct, to 4pm Mar & Apr, to 3.30pm Nov-Feb)

A fast and painless way to reach Capri’s highest peak, Anacapri's Seggiovia del Monte Solaro chairlift whisks you to the top of the mountain in a tranquil, beautiful ride of just 13 minutes. The views from the top are outstanding – on a clear day, you can see the entire Bay of Naples, the Amalfi Coast and the islands of Ischia and Procida.

oVilla San Michele di Axel MuntheMUSEUM, GARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 14 01; www.villasanmichele.eu; Via Axel Munthe 34; €8; h9am-6pm May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year)

The former home of Swedish doctor, psychiatrist and animal-rights advocate Axel Munthe, San Michele di Axel Munthe should be included on every visitor’s itinerary. Built on the site of the ruins of a Roman villa, the gardens make a beautiful setting for a tranquil stroll, with pathways flanked by immaculate flowerbeds. There are also superb views from here, plus some fine photo props in the form of Roman sculptures.

2Activities

oBanana SportBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %348 5949665; Marina Grande; 2hr/day rental €90/220; hMay-mid-Oct)

Located on the eastern edge of the waterfront, Banana Sport hires out five-person motorised dinghies, allowing you to explore secluded coves and grottoes. You can also visit the popular swimming spot Bagno di Tiberio (€10), a small inlet west of Marina Grande; it’s said that Tiberius once swam here.

oCapri WhalesBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 58 33; www.capriwhales.it; Marina Grande 17; 2hr rental €90, 3hr tour €200; hMay-Oct; c)

These dinghies are well equipped for families, with coolers, snorkelling gear, floats and water toys. The outfit also run tours around the island and to the mainland.

4Sleeping

This island is all about lemon trees, pavement cafes, sultry summer evenings and wearing the largest pair of shades you can get your hands on. In other words, accommodation is strictly seasonal, which means bed space is tight and, in general, costly. Always book well ahead in the summer.

oCasa MariantoniaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 29 23; www.casamariantonia.com; Via Guiseppe Orlandi 80; d €120-280; hApr-Oct; paWs)

This fabulous boutique retreat counts Jean-Paul Sartre and Alberto Moravia among its past guests, which may well give you something to muse over while you are enjoying the tranquil beauty of the surroundings. Rooms deliver restrained elegance in soothing tones and there are private terraces with garden views. The in-house restaurant is set in a lemon grove, naturally.

oHotel Villa EvaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 15 49; www.villaeva.com; Via La Fabbrica 8; d €120-200, tr €150-220, apt per person €60-90; hApr-Oct; aiWs)

Nestled amid fruit and olive trees in the countryside near Anacapri, Villa Eva is an idyllic retreat, complete with swimming pool, lush gardens and sunny rooms and apartments. Whitewashed domes, terracotta floors, stained-glass windows and vintage fireplaces add character, while the location ensures peace and quiet.

Capri PalaceHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 978 01 11; www.capripalace.com; Via Capodimonte 2b; d/ste from €500/1000; hApr-Oct; aWs)

A VIP favourite (Gwyneth Paltrow, Liz Hurley and Naomi Campbell have all relaxed here), the super-chic Capri Palace takes dolce vita to dizzying levels. Its stylish Mediterranean interior is enlivened with eye-catching contemporary art and its guestrooms are never less than lavish – some even have their own terraced garden and private plunge pool.

Grand Hotel QuisisanaHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 07 88; www.quisi.com; Via Camerelle 2; r/ste from €330/850; hEaster-Oct; aWs)

Boasting a five-star luxury rating, the Quisisana is Capri’s most prestigious address and is just few espadrille-clad steps from La Piazzetta (Piazza Umberto I). A slumber palace since the 19th century, it’s a bastion of unashamed opulence, with two swimming pools, a fitness centre and spa, restaurants, bars and subtropical gardens. Rooms are suitably palatial, with cool colour schemes and mostly classic, conservative furniture.

5Eating

Traditional Campanian food served in traditional trattorias is what you’ll mainly find on Capri. Prices are high but drop noticeably the further you get from Capri Town.

The island’s culinary gift to the world is insalata caprese, a salad of fresh tomatoes, basil and silky mozzarella drizzled with olive oil. Look out for caprese cheese, a cross between mozzarella and ricotta, and ravioli caprese, ravioli stuffed with cacciota cheese and herbs. For a local sugar high, sink your teeth into torta caprese, a dense, flourless cake made with chocolate and almonds and best paired with a glass of Strega liqueur.

Many restaurants, like the hotels, close over winter and only reopen at Easter.

oRaffaele BuonacoreFAST FOOD€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 78 26; Via Vittorio Emanuele III 35; snacks €2-10, gelato from €2.50; h8am-9pm, closed Tue Oct-Jun; c)

Ideal for a quick fill-up, this popular, down-to-earth snack bar does a roaring trade in savoury and sweet treats. Hit the spot with frittate, panini (sandwiches), focaccie, stuffed peppers, waffles and legendary ice cream. Hard to beat, though, are the delicious sfogliatelle (cinnamon-infused ricotta in a puff-pastry shell, €2.50) and the feather-light speciality caprilu al limone (lemon and almond cakes).

oÈ DivinoITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 83 64; www.edivinocapri.com/divino; Vico Sella Orta 10a; meals €30-35; h8pm-1am daily Jun-Aug, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun rest of the year; W)

Look hard for the sign: this Slow Food restaurant is a well-kept secret. Whether dining among lemon trees in the garden or among antiques, chandeliers, contemporary art (and a bed) inside, expect a thoughtful, regularly changing menu dictated by what's fresh from the garden or market. Favourites include a sultry pasta dish of paccheri with tuna, olives, capers and datterini tomatoes.

Le GrottelleITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 57 19; Via Arco Naturale 13; meals €27-40; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Jul & Aug, noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Fri-Wed Jun & Sep, noon-3pm Fri-Wed Apr, May & Oct; W)

This is a great place to impress someone – not so much for the food, which is decent enough, but for the dramatic setting. Close to the Arco Naturale, its two dining areas are set in a cave and on a hillside terrace with sea views. Dishes are rustic and honest, from homemade fusilli pasta with shrimps and courgettes to rabbit with onions, garlic and rosemary.

oIl GeranioSEAFOOD€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 06 16; www.geraniocapri.com; Via Matteotti 8; meals €45-50; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct)

Time to pop the question or quell those pre-departure blues? The terrace at this sophisticated spot offers heart-stealing views over the pine trees to the Isole Faraglioni rocks. Seafood is the house speciality, particularly the salt-baked fish. Other fine choices include the octopus salad and linguine with saffron and mussels. Book at least three days ahead for a terrace table in high season.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Capri’s nightlife is a showy business. The main activity is styling up and hanging out, ideally at one of the cafes on La Piazzetta (Piazza Umberto I). Aside from the cafes, the nightlife here is fairly staid, with surprisingly few clubs. The most famous late-night party spot remains Taverna Anema e Core.

Taverna Anema e CoreCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %329 4742508; www.anemaecore.com; Vico Sella Orta 39E, Capri Town; h11pm-late Tue-Sun)

Lying beyond a humble exterior is one of the island’s most famous nightspots, run by the charismatic Guido Lembo. This smooth and sophisticated bar-club attracts an appealing mix of super-chic and casually dressed punters, here for the relaxed atmosphere and regular live music, including unwaveringly authentic Neapolitan guitar strumming and singing.

Caffè MichelangeloCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Giuseppe Orlandi 138, Anacapri; h8am-2am Jul & Aug, to 1am Sep-Jun, closed Thu Nov & Dec; W)

On a street flanked by tasteful shops and near two lovely piazzas, this modest, friendly corner cafe is a sound spot for a fix of people watching. Rate the passing parade over a spritz con Cynar, a less-sweet take on the classic Aperol spritz, made using a herbacious Italian bitter liqueur.

7Shopping

Limoncello di CapriDRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 29 27; www.limoncello.com; Via Capodimonte 27, Anacapri; h9am-7.30pm)

Don’t be put off by the gaudy yellow display; this historic shop stocks some of the island’s best limoncello. In fact, it was here that the drink was first concocted (or at least that is the claim…). Apparently, the grandmother of current owner Massimo made the tot as an after-dinner treat for the guests in her small guesthouse.

Carthusia I Profumi di CapriCOSMETICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 53 93; www.carthusia.it; Viale Matteotti 2d, Capri Town; h9am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm rest of year)

Allegedly, Capri’s famous floral perfume was established in 1380 by the prior of the Certosa di San Giacomo. Caught unawares by a royal visit, he displayed the island’s most beautiful flowers for the queen. Changing the water in the vase, he discovered a floral scent. This became the base of the classic perfume now sold at this smart laboratory outlet.

8Information

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.poste.it; Via Roma 50; h8.20am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)

Located just west of the bus terminal in Capri Town.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 06 34; www.capritourism.com; Banchina del Porto, Marina Grande; h8.30am-4.15pm daily Jun–mid-Sep, 8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat rest of year)

Can provide a map of the island, plus accommodation listings, ferry timetables and other useful information.

8Getting There & Away

The two major ferry routes to Capri are from Naples and Sorrento, although there are also seasonal connections with Ischia and the Amalfi Coast (Amalfi, Positano and Salerno).

Caremar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 07 00; www.caremar.it) operates hydrofoils and ferries to/from Naples (€12.10 to €20, 40 minutes to 1¼ hours, up to seven daily) and hydrofoils to/from Sorrento €13.50 to €16, 25 minutes, four daily).

Gescab ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 428 55 55; www.gescab.it) runs hydrofoils to/from Naples (€20 to €22.50, 40 minutes, up to 17 daily) and to/from Sorrento (€17.70 to €20.20, 20 minutes, up to 19 daily).

Navigazione Libera del Golfo (NLG; GOOGLE MAP ; %081 552 07 63; www.navlib.it) operates hydrofoils to/from Naples (from €18.70 to €22.50, 45 minutes, eight daily).

SNAV ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 428 55 55; www.snav.it) also operates hydrofoils to/from Naples (€22.20 to €23.50, 45 minutes, seven daily).

8Getting Around

Bus

Sippic ( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 837 04 20; Bus Station, Via Roma, Capri Town; tickets €1.80, day tickets €8.60) Runs regular buses between Marina Grande and Anacapri, as well as between Anacapri and Capri Town.

Staiano Autotrasporti (%081 837 24 22; www.staianotourcapri.com; Bus Station, Via Tommaso, Anacapri; tickets €2) These buses serve the Grotta Azzurra and Punta Carena faro (lighthouse).

Funicular

Funicular (tickets €1.80; h6.30am-9.30pm) The first challenge facing visitors is how to get from Marina Grande to Capri Town. The most enjoyable option is the funicular, if only for the evocative en-route views over the lemon groves and surrounding countryside. The ticket booth in Marina Grande is not at the funicular station itself; it's behind the tourist office (turn right onto Via Marina Grande from the ferry port). Note that the funicular usually closes from January through March for maintenance; a substitute bus service is in place during this period.

Scooter

Ciro dei Motorini ( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 3606918, 081 362 00 83; www.capriscooter.com; Via Marina Grande 55, Marina Grande; per 2/24hr €30/65) If you're looking to hire a scooter at Marina Grande, stop here.

Taxi

Taxi (%in Anacapri 081 837 11 75, in Capri Town 081 837 66 57) From Marina Grande, a taxi costs from €17 to Capri and from €22 to Anacapri; from Capri to Anacapri costs from €18. These rates include one bag per vehicle. Each additional bag (with dimensions exceeding 40cm x 20cm x 50cm) costs an extra €2.