Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria

Why Go?

The Italian boot’s heel (Puglia), instep (Basilicata) and toe (Calabria) are where the 'Mezzogiorno' (southern Italy) shows all its throbbing intensity. Long stereotyped as the poorer, more passionate cousins of Italy's sophisticated northerners, these regions are finally being appreciated for their true richness. You will see washing on weather-worn balconies, scooters speeding down medieval alleys and ancient towns crumbling under Mediterranean suns. But look past the pasta-advert stereotypes and you'll find things altogether more complex and wonderful; gritty, unsentimental cities with pedigrees stretching back thousands of years; dramatically broken coastlines that have harboured fisherfolk and pirates for millennia; and above all, proud and generous people, eager to share these delights with you.

Puglia is defined by its coast, the longest in Italy; little Basilicata touches two seas, but is known for forests and mountains; while Calabria, last stop before Sicily, is a hodge-podge of Greek, Latin, African and Norman influences.

When to Go

Apr–Jun Spring wildflowers are blooming: perfect for hiking in the Pollino National Park.
Jul & Aug Summer is beach weather and festivals blossom in towns such as Lecce and Matera.
Sep & Oct The crowds have thinned, the weather's still mild, and the mushrooms are emerging in Sila National Park.

Best Places to Eat

A Dedalo

A Al Trabucco da Mimì

A Trattoria Il Rifugio della Buona Stella

A Trattoria Terra Madre

A Paglionico Vini e Cucina

A La Cantina del Macellaio

Best Places to Sleep

A Hotel Il Belvedere

A Locanda delle Donne Monache

A Palazzo Rollo

A Relais Parallelo 41

A Il Frantoio

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Highlights

1 Matera Marvelling at the contrast between miserable caves and soaring cathedrals in this ancient city.

2 Lecce Learning to love the flowery excesses of the city's baroque architecture.

3 Valle d'Itria Eating the best of the Mediterranean diet in the valley's gorgeous hilltowns.

4 Vieste Searching for early morning photo ops around the cream-coloured lanes of this divine coastal town.

5 Maratea Driving with the top down and the sea in your nostrils around an impossibly beautiful string of coastal towns.

6 Parco Nazionale dell'Aspromonte Rambling in the wild, lonely uplands of this mysterious Calabrian wilderness.

7 Museo Nazionale di Reggio Calabria Getting up close and personal with the godlike Riace Bronzes.

8 Otranto Cathedral Viewing macabre skulls and magnificent mosaics in this unique Norman basilica.

Puglia

Puglia can surely now take its place in the first rank of Italy's famous regions. Clearly, everything the Italophile craves is there in abundance: ancient towns heavy with the tangible past; extravagant churches dreamt up by Europe's finest architects; the footprints of an endless procession of conquerors and cultures, stamped in stone, gold and marble; seas of olives; olive-green seas; and food the equal of any in Italy. Travellers bored or worn down by the crowds of Campania and Tuscany can find still release in the baroque splendour of Lecce, ‘Florence of the South’, or one of many lesser (but no less beautiful) Pugliese towns.

But it's perhaps outside of its cities that Puglia shines brightest. From the ancient Forest of Umbra in the north to the fruitful Valle d'Itria and sun-baked Salento, Puglia's countryside has always been its foundation – the source of its food, its wealth and its culture.

Bari

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If Lecce is the south’s Florence, Bari is its Bologna, a historic but forward-looking town with a high percentage of young people and migrants lending it vigour. More urban than Lecce and Brindisi, with grander boulevards and better nightlife, Bari supports a large university, an opera house and municipal buildings that shout confidence.

Most travellers skip Bari on their way to Puglia’s big-hitter, Lecce (the towns have a long-standing rivalry, especially over soccer), but Bari doesn’t lack history or culture. The old town contains the bones of St Nicholas (aka Santa Claus) in its Basilica di San Nicola, along with a butch castle and plenty of unfussy trattorias that have the local nosh – cucina barese – down to a simple art.

The second-largest town in southern Italy, Bari is a busy port with connections to Greece, Albania and Croatia, and sports an international airport with connections to much of Europe.

8Dangers & Annoyances

Once notorious for petty crime, Bari has cleaned up its act of late. Nonetheless, take all of the usual precautions: don't leave anything in your car; don't display money or valuables; and watch out for bag-snatchers on scooters.

Bari

1Top Sights

1Basilica di San NicolaC1

1Sights

2Castello SvevoB2

3CathedralC2

4Colonna della GiustiziaC2

Museo del Succorpo della CattedraleC2

5Museo NicolaianoC1

6Piazza MercantileD2

4Sleeping

7B&B Casa PimpoliniA4

5Eating

8La Locanda di FedericoD2

9Maria delle SgagliozzeC1

10Paglionico Vini e CucinaC3

11TerranimaA4

7Shopping

12Enoteca Vinarius de PasqualeB4

13Il SalumaioB4

1Sights

Most sights are in or near the atmospheric old town, Bari Vecchia, a medieval labyrinth of tight alleyways and graceful piazzas. It fills a small peninsula between the new port to the west and the old port to the southeast, cramming in 40 churches and more than 120 shrines.

oBasilica di San NicolaBASILICA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 73 71 11; www.basilicasannicola.it; Piazza San Nicola; h7am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Bari's signature basilica was one of the first Norman churches to be built in southern Italy, and is a splendid (if square and solid) example of Pugliese-Romanesque architecture. Dating to the 12th century, it was originally constructed to house the relics of St Nicholas (better known as Father Christmas), which were stolen from Turkey in 1087 by local fishing folk. Today, it is an important place of pilgrimage for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians.

St Nicholas' remains, which are said to emanate a miraculous myrrh with special powers, are ensconced in a shrine in the beautiful, vaulted crypt. Above, the interior is huge and simple with a gilded 17th-century wooden ceiling. The magnificent 13th-century ciborium over the altar is Puglia's oldest. Other items related to the basilica, including chalices, vestments and crests, are displayed in the Museo Nicolaiano ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 23 14 29; www.basilicasannicola.it; Largo Papa Urbano II; h11am-6pm Thu-Tue), adjacent.

CathedralCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %080 521 06 05; www.arcidiocesibaribitonto.it; Piazza dell'Odegitria; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8-10am & 11am-7pm Sun)

Built over the original Byzantine church, the 12th- to 13th-century Romanesque cathedral, dedicated to San Sabino, is technically Bari's most important church, although its fame pales alongside San Nicola. Inside, the plain walls are punctuated with deep arcades and the eastern window is a tangle of plant and animal motifs. The highlight lies in the subterranean Museo del Succorpo della Cattedrale ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza dell'Odegitria, Cattedrale di Bari; adult/reduced €3/2; h9.30am-4pm Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 12.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri), where recent excavations have revealed remnants left over from an ancient Christian basilica and various Roman ruins.

Castello SvevoCASTLE

(Swabian Castle; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %080 521 37 04; Piazza Federico II di Svevia; adult/reduced/under 18yr €8/4/free; h8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue)

Roger the Norman originally built this castle, in the 12th century, over the ruins of a Byzantine structure. Later, Frederick II of Swabia built over the existing castle, incorporating it into his design and leaving intact the the two towers of the Norman structure that still stand. The bastions, with corner towers overhanging the moat, were added in the 16th century during Aragonese rule, when the castle was a magnificent residence. Excavation is ongoing, uncovering more rich layers of elite Barese history.

Piazza MercantilePIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This beautiful piazza is fronted by the Sedile, the headquarters of Bari's Council of Nobles. In the square's northeast corner is the Colonna della Giustizia (Column of Justice; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Mercantile), where debtors were once tied and whipped.

zFestivals & Events

Festa di San NicolaRELIGIOUS

(h7-9 May)

The Festival of St Nicholas is Bari's biggest annual shindig, celebrating the 11th-century arrival of St Nicholas' relics from Turkey. On the first evening a procession leaves Castello Svevo for the Basilica di San Nicola. The next day there's a deafening fly-past and a fleet of boats carries the statue of St Nicholas along the coast.

4Sleeping

Most of Bari's hotels tend to be bland and overpriced, aimed at business clientele. B&Bs are generally a better option.

B&B Casa PimpoliniB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 21 99 38, 333 9580740; www.casapimpolini.com; Via Calefati 249; s/d €60/80; aW)

This lovely B&B in Bari's new town is within easy walking distance to shops, restaurants and Bari Vecchia (the old town). The two rooms are warm and welcoming, and the homemade breakfast is a treat. Great value.

Villa Romanazzi CarducciHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 42 74 00; www.villaromanazzi.com; Via Capruzzi 326; s/d from €59/99; paWs)

Run by the French Accor group, the Villa Romanazzi shows flair that transcends its workaday (if convenient) location, near the train station. Businesslike rooms are modern and clean-lined, but the real bonuses are in the extras: statue-embellished gardens, picturesque swimming pool (summer only), enormous fitness centre, free bikes, a spa and a decent restaurant with excellent breakfasts.

5Eating

One of the best things about Bari is its trattorias, and the simple, delightful seafood and cucina barese they serve.

oPaglionico Vini e CucinaOSTERIA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %338 2120391; Strada Vallisa 23; meals €27; hnoon-3pm daily & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)

Dishing up what the locals like since 1870, this 100% Barese osteria (casual tavern) is an absolute classic. There's no menu, just a chalkboard displaying what's cooking that day. It's all fine salt-of-the-earth Pugliese cuisine, with seafood to the fore – the riso, patate e cozze (oven-baked rice, potatoes and mussels) is particularly good. The owners/waiters are undemonstrative, and brilliant.

Maria delle SgagliozzePUGLIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Strada delle Crociate 13; snacks €1; hfrom 5pm)

Octogenarian Maria dispenses the legendary Barese street food sgagliozze (deep-fried polenta cubes) from the front of her house. Sprinkle them with a pinch of salt and Bob's your uncle!

La Locanda di FedericoPUGLIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 22 77 05; www.lalocandadifederico.com; Piazza Mercantile 63; meals €35; hnoon-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight)

With domed ceilings, archways and medieval-style artwork on the walls, this restaurant oozes atmosphere, and a quiet (justified) confidence in its classic Pugliese fare. The menu is proudly studded with regional staples such as orecchiette ('little ears' of pasta) con le cime di rape (with turnip tops) and even al ragù di cavallo (with horsemeat sauce).

TerranimaPUGLIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 21 97 25; www.terranima.com; Via Putignani 213; meals €32; hnoon-3pm daily & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)

Peep through the lace curtains into the cool interior of this rustic trattoria, where worn flagstone floors and period furnishings make you feel like you're dining in someone's front room. The menu features fabulous regional offerings such as veal, lemon and caper meatballs, and sporcamuss, a sweet flaky pastry.

7Shopping

Il SalumaioFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 21 93 45; www.ilsalumaio.it; Via Piccinni 168; h8.30am-2pm & 4.30-9pm Mon-Sat)

Breathe in the delicious smells of Puglia's best produce at this venerable delicatessen.

Enoteca Vinarius de PasqualeWINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 21 31 92; Via Marchese di Montrone 87; h8am-1.30pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

Stock up on Pugliese drops such as Primitivo di Manduria at this gorgeous old wine shop, founded in 1911.

8Information

From Piazza Aldo Moro, in front of the main train station, streets heading north will take you to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which separates the old and new parts of the city.

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 29 11 11; Via Murat 4)

Policlinico di BariHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 34 93 49; Piazza Cesare 11)

Bari's main hospital has a 24-hour emergency room.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 25 01 50; Piazza Umberto I 33a; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 82 14 11; Piazza Aldo Moro 32; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)

This kiosk, convenient to Bari's central station, is packed with information on the city and Puglia generally.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Bari's Karol Wojtyła Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 80 02 00; www.aeroportidipuglia.it; Viale Ferrari), 10km northwest of the city centre, is served by a host of international and budget airlines, including easyJet, Alitalia and Ryanair.

Pugliairbus (www.aeroportidipuglia.it) connects Bari airport with Foggia and Brindisi airports. It also has services to Matera, Vieste, and Taranto.

Boat

Ferries run from Bari to Albania, Croatia, Greece and Montenegro. All boat companies have offices at the ferry terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ), accessible on bus 20 from the main train station. Fares vary considerably among companies and it's easier to book with a travel agent such as Morfimare ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 7 98 15; www.morfimare.it; Corso de Tullio 36-40).

The main companies and their routes:

Jadrolinija ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 27 54 39; www.jadrolinija.hr; Nuova Stazione Marittima di Bari) For Dubrovnik (Croatia).

Montenegro Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %382 30 31 11 64; www.montenegrolines.net; Corso de Tullio 36) For Bar (Montenegro) and Dubrovnik (Croatia).

Superfast ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 28 28 28; www.superfast.com; Corso de Tullio 6) For Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras (Greece).

Ventouris Ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; %Albania 0808 496685, Greece 0808 761451; www.ventouris.gr; Nuova Stazione Marittima di Bari) For Corfu, Cephalonia and Igoumenitsa (Greece) and Durrës (Albania).

Bus

Intercity buses leave from two main locations. From Via Capruzzi, south of the main train station, SITA (%0805 79 01 11; www.sitabus.it) covers local destinations. Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane (%0805 72 52 29; http://ferrovieappulolucane.it) buses serving Matera (€4.90, 1¾ hours, six daily) also depart from here, plus Marozzi (%0805 79 02 11; www.marozzivt.it) buses for Rome (from €34.50, 4½ to 5½ hours, six daily – note that the overnight bus departs from Piazza Moro) and other long-distance destinations.

Buses operated by Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE; GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 46 21 11; www.fseonline.it) leave from Largo Ciaia, south of Piazza Aldo Moro and service the following places:

Alberobello (€4.90, 1½ hours, hourly); continues to Locorotondo (€5.60, 1¾ hours) and Martina Franca (€5.60, two hours)

Grotte di Castellana (€2.80, one hour, frequent)

Taranto (€8.40, three hours with change, four per day)

Train

A web of train lines spreads out from Bari. Note that there are fewer services on the weekend.

From the Bari Centrale Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0805 24 43 86), Trenitalia trains go to Puglia and beyond:

Brindisi (from €8.40, one hour, frequent)

Foggia (from €9.10, one hour, frequent)

Milan (from €59, 6¾ to eight hours, frequent)

Rome (from €40, four hours, four per day)

Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane serves two main destinations:

Matera (€4.90, 1¾ hours, 12 daily)

Potenza (€11, 3¾ hours, four daily)

Ferrovie del Sud-Est trains leave from the southern side of the station where they have their own separate ticket office:

Alberobello (€4.90, 1¾ hours, hourly)

Martina Franca (€5.60, 3¼ hours, five per day)

Taranto (from €8.40, 2½ hours, nine daily)

HEADING EAST

Puglia is the main jumping-off point for onward travel to Greece, Croatia and Albania. The two main ports are Bari and Brindisi, from where you can catch ferries to Vlorë and Durrës in Albania, Bar in Montenegro, and Cephalonia, Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras in Greece. Fares from Bari to Greece are generally more expensive than those from Brindisi. Taxes are usually from €9 per person and €12 per car. High season is generally the months of July and August, with reduced services in low season. Tariffs can be up to one-third cheaper in low season.

8Getting Around

Central Bari is compact – a 15-minute walk will take you from Piazza Aldo Moro to the old town. For the ferry terminal, take bus 20 (tickets €1.50) from Piazza Moro.

Street parking is migraine-inducing. There's a large parking area (€1) south of the main port entrance; otherwise, there's a large multi-storey car park between the main train station and the FSE station. Another car park is on Via Zuppetta, opposite Hotel Adria.

To/From the Airport

For the airport, take the Tempesta shuttle bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.autoservizitempesta.it) from the main train station (€4, 30 minutes, hourly), with pick-ups at Piazza Garibaldi and the corner of Via Andrea da Bari and Via Calefati. Alternatively, normal city bus 16 covers the same route and a trip is much cheaper (€1), though marginally slower (40 minutes). A taxi trip from the airport to town costs around €25.

Around Bari

The Terra di Bari (Land of Bari) surrounding the capital is rich in olive groves and orchards, and the region has an impressive architectural history with some magnificent cathedrals, an extensive network of castles along its coastline, charming seaside towns such as Trani and, inland, the mysterious Castel del Monte.

WORTH A TRIP

FREDERICK II'S TOY CASTLE

You'll see Castel del Monte ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 56 99 97; www.casteldelmonte.beniculturali.it; adult/reduced €10/6; h10.30am-7.30pm Apr-Sep, 9am-6.30pm Oct-Mar), an inhumanly exact geometric shape on a hilltop, from miles away. Mysterious and perfectly octagonal, it's one of southern Italy's most talked-about landmarks and a Unesco World Heritage Site. No one knows why Frederick II built it – there's no nearby town or strategic crossroads. It was not built to defend anything, as it has no moat or drawbridge, no arrow slits, and no trapdoors for pouring boiling oil on invaders.

Some theories claim that, according to mid-13th-century beliefs in geometric symbolism, the octagon represented the union of the circle and square, of God-perfection (the infinite) and human-perfection (the finite). The castle was therefore nothing less than a celebration of the relationship between humanity and God.

The castle has eight octagonal towers. Its interconnecting rooms have decorative marble columns and fireplaces, and the doorways and windows are framed in corallite stone. Many of the towers have washing rooms with what are thought to be Europe's first flushing loos – Frederick II, like the Arab world he admired, set great store by cleanliness.

To get to the castle without a car, take the Ferrovia Bari-Nord train from Bari to Andria, then bus number 6 from Andria station to the castle (35 minutes, five daily, April to October only). The castle is about 35km from Trani; there's no parking, but a nearby site charges €5 for a car, and €1 for a shuttle up the short, steepish 500m to the castle.

Trani

Pop 56,100

Known as the 'Pearl of Puglia', beautiful Trani has a sophisticated feel, particularly in summer when well-heeled visitors pack the array of marina-side bars. The marina is the place to promenade and watch the white yachts and fishing boats in the harbour, while the historic centre, with its medieval churches, glossy limestone streets, historic Jewish quarter and faded yet charming palazzi is an enchanting area to explore. But it's the cathedral, pale against the deep-blue sea, that is the town's most arresting sight.

1Sights

CathedralCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cattedraletrani.it; Piazza del Duomo; campanile €5; h8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12.30pm & 4-9pm Sun Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar)

This dramatic seafront cathedral is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, a Greek Christian who wandered through Puglia crying 'Kyrie eleison' ('Lord, have mercy'). First thought to be a simpleton, he was posthumously revered after several miracles attributed to him occurred. Below the church is the crypt, a forest of ancient columns that predates the current structure, and where the bones of St Nicholas are kept beneath the altar. You can also visit the campanile (bell tower).

CastleCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 528 52 49; www.castelloditrani.beniculturali.it; Piazza Manfredi 16; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h8.30am-7.30pm)

Two hundred metres north of the cathedral is one of Trani's major landmarks, the vast, almost modernist Swabian castle built by Frederick II in 1233. Charles V later strengthened the fortifications and it was used as a prison from 1844 to 1974. While the moat is now dry, the ingenious engineers originally devised a system allowing the level of seawater in it to be precisely controlled.

Scolanova SynagogueSYNAGOGUE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 48 17 99; Via Scolanova 23; hhours vary)

This synagogue, one of four once established in Trani's ancient Jewish quarter, has been reborn after over 600 years. Persecutions, forced conversions and confiscations periodically beset the Jews of Trani, culminating in their forced expulsion in 1510. This 13th-century synagogue was converted to a Christian church in an earlier wave of hate, around 1380. Abandoned by the mid-20th century, it has been deconsecrated and returned to life as the Jewish house of worship it originally was.

Ognissanti ChurchCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://chiesadiognissanti.it; Via Ognissanti; hhours vary)

Traditionally (but controversially) thought to be built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century, this church became a place of blessing for those setting out on Crusade. Legend has it that it was in this austere and dignified building that the knights of the First Crusade swore allegiance to their leader, Bohemond I of Antioch, before setting off to 'liberate' the Holy Lands. Whatever the truth, it's a treasured example of Pugliese-Romanesque architecture of the period.

4Sleeping

B&B Centro Storico TraniB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 50 61 76; www.bbtrani.it; Via Leopardi 28; s/d €40/60; W)

This simple, old-fashioned B&B inhabits the 14th-century Palazzo Morola in the old Jewish quarter, and is run by a lovely elderly couple. It's basic, but the rooms are large and 'Mama' makes a mean crostata (jam tart). There's a terrace, laundry and wi-fi in communal areas.

Hotel RegiaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 58 44 44; www.hotelregia.it; Piazza Addazi 2; s/d/tr €120/130/170; aW)

A lone, lovely building facing the cathedral and the Adriatic, the 18th-century Palazzo Filisio houses this charmingly understated grand hotel. Rooms are sober and stylish, and the location is stupendous. Half- and full-board packages are available, and the in-house restaurant (meals €40) maintains the upmarket vibe with dishes such as risotto with prawns, asparagus and black truffle.

5Eating

oCorteinfioreSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 50 84 02; www.corteinfiore.it; Via Ognissanti 18; meals €40; h1-2.15pm Tue-Sun, 8-10.15pm Tue-Sat)

The decking, stiff tablecloths and marquee setting of this famed Trani seafood restaurant set hopes racing, and the food, wine and service deliver in full. Expect lots of seafood, and expect it to be excellent: try the frutti di mari antipasti, or the Gallipoli prawns with candied lemon. Also rents delightful rooms (double €120) decked out in pale colours.

La DarsenaSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 48 73 33; Via Statuti Marittimi 96; meals €32; hnoon-3pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sun)

Renowned for its seafood, swish La Darsena is housed in a waterfront palazzo. Outside tables overlook the port while inside, photos of old Puglia cover the walls beneath a huge wrought-iron dragon chandelier. Dishes such as cavatelli (pasta) with mussels and salted ricotta just sing with unabashed flavour.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0883 58 88 30; www.traniweb.it; 1st fl, Palazzo Palmieri, Piazza Trieste 10; h10.30am-12.30pm & 5.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

Located 200m south of the cathedral. Offers free guided walking tours most days at 8pm.

8Getting There & Away

STP (%0883 49 18 00; www.stpspa.it) has frequent bus services to Bari. Services depart from Bar Stazione ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza XX Settembre 23), which also has timetables and tickets.

Trani is on the main train line between Bari (€3.10, 30 to 45 minutes, frequent) and Foggia (€6.30, 40 to 50 minutes, frequent).

Polignano a Mare

Pop 18,000

Dip into this spectacularly positioned small town if you can. Located around 34km south of Bari on the S16 coastal road, Polignano a Mare is built on the edge of a craggy ravine pockmarked with caves. The town is thought to be one of the most important ancient settlements in Puglia and was later inhabited by successive invaders ranging from the Huns to the Normans. On Sunday the logge (balconies) are crowded with day trippers from Bari who come here to view the crashing waves, visit the caves and crowd out the cornetterias (shops specialising in Italian croissants) in the atmospheric centro storico.

2Activities

DorinoBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %329 6465904; www.dorinogb.it; Lungomare Domenico Modugno; adult/child 11-15yr/under 11yr €25/10/free)

For excursions into the dramatic sea caves and under the looming coast around Polignano, make a booking with this laid-back operation. Call ahead, as opening hours aren't fixed.

4Sleeping & Eating

B&B Santo StefanoB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0804 24 95 63, 345 1686043; www.santostefano.info; Vico Santo Stefano 9-13; d from €89; W)

Santo Stefano offers six attractive rooms located in an ancient tower in the old part of Polignano, complete with tufa walls, antique furniture and bright bathrooms. There's a terrace facing the sea, and activities such as biking and trekking can be organised, for a fee.

Antiche MuraPUGLIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0804 24 24 76; www.ristoranteantichemura.it; Via Roma 11; meals €30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Wed-Mon)

Huddled against the eponymous 'Old Walls' of Polignano, this delightful little restaurant features a vaulted cave-like interior with lanterns and bells adorning the walls. Unsurprisingly, fish is a speciality, with sea bass, octopus and lobster making an appearance in simple yet memorable dishes such as linguine with baby lobster and sea bass from Orbetello (Tuscany) with potatoes and zucchini.

Promontorio del Gargano

The coast surrounding this expansive promontory seems permanently bathed in a pink-hued, pearly light, providing a painterly contrast to the sea, which softens from intense to powder blue as the evening draws in. It's one of Italy's most beautiful corners, encompassing white limestone cliffs, fairy-tale grottoes, sparkling sea, ancient forests, rare orchids and tangled, fragrant maquis (dense scrub vegetation).

Once connected to what is now Dalmatia (in Croatia), the 'spur' of the Italian boot has more in common with the land mass across the sea than with the rest of Italy. Creeping urbanisation was halted in 1991 by the creation of the Parco Nazionale del Gargano ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcogargano.gov.it). Aside from its magnificent national park, the Gargano is home to pilgrimage sites and the lovely seaside towns of Vieste and Peschici.

Vieste

Pop 13,950

Clinging to a spectacular headland jutting into the Adriatic, Vieste resembles nothing so much as a cross between Naples and Dubrovnik, with a bit of Pugliese magic mixed in. The narrow alleys of the old town, draped with lines of drying clothes and patrolled by slinking cats and the odd friendly dog, are an atmospheric place, day or night, high or off-season. Wedged up against the old town is the equally unpretentious new town, ghostly in winter, but packed with holidaying humanity in summer, especially during the passeggiata (evening stroll).

1Sights

CathedralCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Duomo; h7.30am-noon & 4-11pm)

Built by the Normans on the ruins of a Vesta temple, this 11th-century 'co-cathedral' (so called because its bishopric is shared with another) is in Pugliese-Romanesque style with a fanciful tower that resembles a cardinal's hat. Of note are its beautiful paintings, swirling interior columns and Latin-inscribed altar.

La SalataCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0854 70 66 35; Strada Provinciale 52; adult/child €5/free; h5.30pm & 6.15pm Mon-Fri Jul & Aug, fewer days Jun & Sep, by appointment Oct-May)

This palaeo-Christian graveyard dating from the 4th to 6th centuries AD is 9km out of town. Inside the cave, tier upon tier of narrow tombs are cut into the rock wall; others form shallow niches in the cave floor. Guided tours are mandatory.

Chianca AmaraHISTORIC SITE

(Bitter Stone; GOOGLE MAP ; Via Cimaglia)

Vieste's most gruesome sight is this worn and polished stone where thousands were beheaded when Turks sacked Vieste in the 16th century.

2Activities

Superb sandy beaches surround the town: in the south are Spiagga del Castello, Cala San Felice and Cala Sanguinaria; due north, head for the area known as La Salata. Diving is popular around the promontory's rocky coastline, which is filled with marine grottoes.

From May to September fast boats zoom to the Isole Tremiti.

For hiking ideas, pick up a Guida al Trekking sul Gargano brochure from the tourist office. A section of walk 4 is doable from Vieste. It starts 2.5km south of town off the Lungomare Enrico Mattei, where a track cuts up through olive groves into increasingly wild terrain.

Centro Ormeggi e SubBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 79 83; Scalo Marittimo Sud 18/19)

Offers diving courses and rents out sailing boats and motorboats.

TTours

Several companies offer tours of the caves that pock the Gargano coast – a three-hour tour costs around €15.

Motobarca DesirèeBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %360 262386; www.grottemarinegargano.com; Lungomare Vespucci; adult/child €20/10; hApr-Oct)

Boat tours of the various caves, arches and trabucchi (Pugliese fishing structures) that characterise the Gargano coast. Trips are spectacular, though the boats can get crowded. Two departures a day (9am and 2.30pm); buy tickets port-side.

Explora GarganoCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 7136864, 0884 70 22 37; www.exploragargano.it; Vieste-Peschici km 5.5; tours from €50)

To get off the beach for a day or two, take one of the many tours on offer at Explora Gargano. As well as hiking and mountain biking (half-day from €70) in the Foresta Umbra, it offers quad tours and jeep safaris (from €50 per day).

4Sleeping

Campeggio Capo ViesteCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 63 26; www.capovieste.it; Vieste-Peschici km 8; 2 adults & campsite/1-bedroom cottage €38/164; hMar-Oct; s)

This tree-shaded campground is right by a sandy beach at La Salata, around 8km from Vieste and accessible by bus. Activities include tennis, a sailing school, beach volleyball and treks in the Gargano.

B&B Rocca sul MareB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 27 19; www.roccasulmare.it; Via Mafrolla 32; per person €45; W)

In a former convent in the old quarter, this is a popular, charming and reasonably-priced place, with comfortable high-ceilinged rooms. There's also a rooftop terrace with panoramic views, a suite with a steam bath and simple, tasty meals (€22 for four courses). Bike hire is available and it can arrange fishing trips and cook your catch that evening.

oRelais Parallelo 41B&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 35 50 09; www.bbparallelo41.it; Via Forno de Angelis 3; r €138; hMar-Oct; aW)

This beautiful small B&B in an updated palazzo in the midst of the old town has five renovated rooms, decorated with hand-painted ceilings, luxurious beds and super modern bathrooms. Breakfasts consist of a substantial buffet, and the reception area acts as a mini information centre for local activities. Note that there are minimum stays in July and August.

5Eating

oVecchia ViestePUGLIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 70 83; Via Mafrolla 32; meals €25; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)

Look beyond the stony, cavernous interior of this modest-seeming restaurant to find what is possibly the best homemade, hand-shaped orecchiette in Puglia (and that's saying something). Try it topped with the obligatory cima di rape (rapini – a bitter green leafy veg – with anchovies, olive oil, chilli peppers, garlic and pecorino).

Osteria Al DuomoOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 82 43; www.osterialduomo.it; Via Alessandro III 23; meals €32; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mar-Nov)

Tucked away in a picturesque narrow alley in the heart of the old town, this welcoming osteria has a cosy cave-like interior and outdoor seating under a shady arbour. And it's not relying on its plum position to get diners through the door: real care and innovation goes into experimental-yet-pleasing creations such as tagliolini with fish skin, clams and pistachios.

8Information

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 28 49; Via Vittorio Veneto 7; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 70 88 06; Piazza Kennedy; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)

You can weigh yourself down with useful brochures in this office, housed in the old fish market.

8Getting There & Around

Boat

Vieste's port is to the north of town, about a five-minute walk from the tourist office. In summer, several companies, including Linee Marittime Adriatico ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 96 20 23; www.collegamentiisoletremiti.com; Corso Garibaldi 32), head to the Isole Tremiti. Tickets can be bought port-side.

Bus

From Piazzale Manzoni, where intercity buses terminate, a 10-minute walk east along Viale XXIV Maggio, which becomes Corso Fazzini, brings you into the old town and the Marina Piccola's attractive promenade. In summer buses terminate at Via Verdi, a 300m walk from the old town down Via Papa Giovanni XXIII.

SITA (%0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it) buses run between Vieste and Foggia via Manfredonia. There are also services to Monte Sant'Angelo (€5) via Macchia Bivio Monte.

From May to September, Pugliairbus (%080 580 03 58; http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) runs a service to the Gargano, including Vieste, from Bari airport.

`2`Driving Tour
Italy's Authentic South

Start: Vieste

End: Maratea

Length: 650km to 700km; one week

Consider a gentle start in lovely, laid-back 1Vieste, with its white sandy beaches and medieval backstreets, but set aside half a day to hike or bike in the lush green forests of the 2Parco Nazionale del Gargano. Follow the coastal road past dramatic cliffs, salt lakes and flat farming land to 3Trani, with its impressive seafront cathedral and picturesque port, before spending a night in 4Bari, where you'll find boisterous bars and salt-of-the-earth trattorias. The next day head to 5Alberobello, home to a dense neighbourhood of Puglia's extraordinary cone-shaped stone homes, called trulli; consider an overnight trulli stay.

Stroll around one of the most picturesque centro storicos (historic centres) in southern Italy at 6Locorotondo. Hit the road and cruise on to lively baroque 7Lecce, where you can easily chalk up a full day exploring the sights, shops and flamboyantly fronted palazzi and churches, including the Basilica di Santa Croce.

Day five will be one to remember. Nothing can prepare you for Basilicata's 8Matera, where sassi (former cave dwellings) are a dramatic reminder of the town's poverty-stricken past. After days of pasta, fave beans and cornetti (Italian croissants), it's high time for some exercise on the trails of the spectacular 9Parco Nazionale del Pollino. Finally, wind up the trip with more walking or a day of beach slothing at the spread out coastal town of aMaratea with its surrounding seaside resorts, medieval village and cosmopolitan harbour, offset by a thickly forested and mountainous interior.

Monte Sant'Angelo

Pop 12,550

One of Europe's most important pilgrimage sites, this isolated mountain-top town has an extraordinary atmosphere. Pilgrims have been coming here for centuries – and so have the hustlers, pushing everything from religious kitsch to parking spaces.

The object of devotion is the Santuario di San Michele. Here, in AD 490, St Michael the Archangel is said to have appeared in a grotto to the Bishop of Siponto.

During the Middle Ages, the sanctuary marked the end of the Route of the Angel, which began in Mont St-Michel (in Normandy) and passed through Rome. In 999 the Holy Roman Emperor Otto III made a pilgrimage to the sanctuary to pray that prophecies about the end of the world in the year 1000 would not be fulfilled. His prayers were answered, the world staggered on and the sanctuary's fame grew.

The sanctuary has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2011.

1Sights

The town's serpentine alleys and jumbled houses are perfect for a little aimless ambling. Look out for the different shaped cappelletti (chimney stacks) on top of the neat whitewashed houses.

oSantuario di San MicheleCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 56 11 50; www.santuariosanmichele.it; Via Reale Basilica; h7.30am-7.30pm Jul-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)F

Over the centuries this sanctuary has expanded to incorporate a large complex of religious buildings that overlay its original shrine. The double-arched entrance vestibule at street level stands next to a distinctive octagonal bell tower built by Carlo I of Naples in 1282. As you descend the staircase inside, look for the 17th-century pilgrims' graffiti. The grotto/shrine where St Michael is said to have left a footprint in stone is located at the bottom of the staircase.

Because of St Michael's footprint, it became customary for pilgrims to carve outlines of their feet and hands into the stone. Etched Byzantine bronze and silver doors, cast in Constantinople in 1076, open into the grotto itself. Inside, a 16th-century statue of the Archangel Michael covers the site of St Michael's footprint. Audio guides cost €3, and it's €5 to get into the museum (or €7 for both together).

Tomba di RotariTOMB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 56 11 50; Largo Tomba di Rotari; €1; h9am-noon & 3-7pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar)

A short flight of stairs opposite the Santuario di San Michele leads to a 12th-century baptistry with a deep sunken basin for total immersion. You enter the baptistry through the facade of the Chiesa di San Pietro with its intricate rose window squirming with serpents – all that remains of the church, destroyed in a 19th-century earthquake. The Romanesque portal of the adjacent 11th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore has some fine bas-reliefs.

CastleCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 56 54 44; Largo Roberto Giuscardo 2; €2; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm)

At the highest point of Monte Sant'Angelo is this rugged fastness, first built by Orso I, who later became Doge of Venice, in the 9th century. One 10th-century tower, Torre dei Giganti, survives, but most of what you can see are Norman, Swabian and Aragonese additions. The views alone are worth the admission.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel MichaelHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 56 55 19; www.hotelmichael.com; Via Reale Basilica 86; s/d €60/80; W)

A small hotel with shuttered windows, located on the main street across from the Santuario di San Michele, this traditional place has spacious rooms, some with with extremely pink bedspreads, and walls spruced up with devotional art. Ask for a room with a view, or just enjoy it as you breakfast on the rooftop terrace.

Casa li JalantuúmeneTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 56 54 84; www.li-jalantuumene.it; Piazza de Galganis 5; meals €42; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon)

This renowned restaurant has a well-known chef, Gegè Mangano, and serves excellent fare. Vegetarians are looked after (try the pasta with wild fennel, cherry tomatoes and ricotta cream), the setting is intimate, there's a select wine list and, in summer, tables spill onto the piazza. There are also four suites on site (from €100), decorated in traditional Pugliese style.

8Getting There & Away

SITA ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0881 35 20 11; www.sitasudtrasporti.it) buses run from Foggia (€4.50, 1¾ hours, four daily) and Vieste via Macchia Bivio Monte.

Peschici

Pop 4500

Perched above a turquoise sea and tempting beach, Peschici, like Vieste, is another cliff-clinging Amalfi lookalike. Its tight-knit old walled town of Arabesque whitewashed houses acts as a hub to a wider resort area. The small town gets crammed in summer, so book in advance. Boats zip across to the Isole Tremiti in high season.

4Sleeping & Eating

Peschici's ample accommodation stocks can come under stress when it seems half of Puglia heads to Gargano in August.

Baia San NicolaCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 96 42 31; www.baiasannicola.it; Localita Punta San Nicola; 2 adults & tent/2-person bungalow per week €33/720; hmid-May–mid-Oct)

The best campground in the area, 2km south of Peschici towards Vieste, Baia San Nicola is on a pine-shaded beach, offering camping, bungalows, apartments and myriad amenities.

Locanda al CastelloB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 96 40 38; www.peschicialcastello.it; Via Castello 29; s/d €70/120; paW)

Staying here is like entering a large, welcoming family home. It's by the cliffs with fantastic views and it's air-conditioned, should you visit in the height of summer. Enjoy hearty home cooking in the restaurant (meals €23) while the owners' kids run around playing football – indoors!

oAl Trabucco da MimìSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 96 25 56; www.altrabucco.it; Localita Punta San Nicola; meals €40; h12.30-2pm & 7-11pm Easter-Oct)

Mimì sadly passed away in 2016, but his daughter and grandsons keep this delightful place ticking. Sitting on wooden trestles beneath the eponymous trabucco (a traditional Pugliese wooden fishing platform) you'll eat the freshest seafood, prepared with expertise but no fuss, as you watch the sun sink behind Peschici. The raw seafood antipasti and grilled mullet are stunning.

There are three simple rooms for rent, at €50 per person. There's also occasional live music (usually jazz) and aperitivo in summer.

oPorta di BassoITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 35 51 67; www.portadibasso.it; Via Colombo 38; menus €45-60; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm, closed Jan & Feb)S

Superb views of the ocean drop away from the floor-to-ceiling windows beside intimate alcove tables at this adventurous and stylish clifftop restaurant. Choose from one of three degustation menus, and prepare to be delighted by dishes such as smoked bluefish with Jerusalem artichokes, fois gras and honey vinegar.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884 96 49 66; Via Magenta 3; h10am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

Friendly staff give you the lowdown on Peschici and the Gargano.

8Getting There & Away

The bus terminal is beside the sportsground, uphill from the main street, Corso Garibaldi.

From April to September, ferry companies, including Linee Marittime Adriatico, serve the Isole Tremiti.

Foresta Umbra

The 'Forest of Shadows' is the Gargano's enchanted interior – thickets of tall, epic trees interspersed with picnic spots bathed in dappled light. It's the last remnant of Puglia's ancient forests: Aleppo pines, oaks, yews and beech trees cloak the hilly terrain. More than 65 different types of orchid have been discovered here, and the wildlife includes roe deer, wild boar, foxes, badgers and the increasingly rare wild cat. Walkers and mountain bikers will find plenty of well-marked trails within the forest's 5790 sq km.

You'll need your own transport to get in and out of the forest.

1Sights & Activities

The small visitor centre in the middle of the forest houses a museum and nature centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; SP52bis, Foresta Umbra; €1.50; h9.30am-6.30pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, 4-10pm Easter) where you can buy maps, hire bikes and join guided hikes.

There are 15 official trails in the park ranging from 0.5km to 13.5km in length. Several of them start near the visitor centre and the adjacent Laghetto Umbra, including path 9, which can be done as a loop returning on a military road. A park leaflet provides a map and trail descriptions.

4Sleeping

Rifugio SfilziB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 3345544; www.rifugiosfilzi.com; SP528; adult €45, incl half-/full board €85/100, child 4-12 incl full board €50)

In the middle of the Foresta Umbra, five kilometres north of the visitor centre on the way to Vico di Gargano, this cosy rifugio (mountain hut) offers eight rooms with three- and four-bed configurations, making them ideal for groups or families. It also has a small shop selling locally made products such as jams and oils, and a cafe-restaurant with fantastic homemade cake and coffee.

Isole Tremiti

This beautiful archipelago of three islands, 36km offshore, is a picturesque composition of ragged cliffs, sandy coves and thick pine woods, surrounded by the glittering dark-blue sea.

Unfortunately, the islands are no secret, and in July and August some 100,000 holidaymakers head over. If you want to savour the islands in tranquillity, visit during the shoulder season. In the low season most tourist facilities close down and the few permanent residents resume their quiet and isolated lives.

The islands' main facilities are on San Domino, the largest and lushest island, formerly used to grow crops. It's ringed by alternating sandy beaches and limestone cliffs; inland grows thick maquis flecked with rosemary and foxglove. The centre harbours a nondescript small town with several hotels.

Small San Nicola island is the traditional administrative centre; a castle-like cluster of medieval buildings rises up from its rocks. The third island, Capraia, is uninhabited.

1Sights & Activities

San DominoISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP )

Head to San Domino for walks, grottoes and coves. It has a pristine, marvellous coastline and the islands' only sandy beach, Cala delle Arene. Alongside the beach is the small cove Grotta dell'Arene, with calm clear waters for swimming. You can also take a boat trip (around €15 from the port) around the island to explore the grottoes: the largest, Grotta del Bue Marino, is 70m long. A tour of all three islands costs around €20.

Diving in the translucent sea is another option with Tremiti Diving Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %337 648917; www.tremitidivingcenter.com; Via Federico II, Villaggio San Domino; 1-tank day-/night-dive €40/50). There's an undemanding, but enchanting, walking track around the island, starting at the far end of the village.

San NicolaISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP )

Medieval buildings thrust out of San Nicola's rocky shores, the same pale-sand colour as the barren cliffs. In 1010, Benedictine monks founded the Abbazia e Chiesa di Santa Maria here; for the next 700 years the islands were ruled by a series of abbots who accumulated great wealth.

Although the church retains a weather-worn Renaissance portal and a fine 11th-century floor mosaic, its other treasures have been stolen or destroyed throughout its troubled history, which has seen various religious orders come and go including the Benedictines, the Cistercians and the Lateran Canons. The only exceptions are a painted wooden Byzantine crucifix brought to the island in AD 747 and a black Madonna, probably transported here from Constantinople in the Middle Ages.

CapraiaISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP )

The third of the Isole Tremiti, Capraia (named after the wild caper plant) is uninhabited. Bird life is plentiful, with impressive flocks of seagulls. There's no organised transport, but trips can be negotiated with local fishing folk.

4Sleeping & Eating

La Casa di GinoB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com; Via dei Forni, San Nicola; s/d from €110/170; a)

A tranquil accommodation choice on San Nicola, away from the frenzy of San Domino, this B&B run by the Hotel Gabbiano has stylish white-on-white rooms. Great views and quiet space to amble or relax are two of its most delightful aspects.

Hotel GabbianoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com; Via Garibaldi 5, Villaggio San Domino; d from €123; aW)

An established icon on San Nicola and run for decades by the same Neapolitan family, this smart hotel has pastel-coloured rooms with balconies overlooking the town and the sea. It also has a seafood restaurant, spa and gym.

ArchitielloSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0882 46 30 54; Via Salita delle Mura 5, San Nicola; meals €30; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11pm Apr-Oct)

A class act with a sea-view terrace, this place specialises in – what else? – fresh fish.

8Getting There & Away

Boats for the Isole Tremiti depart from several points on the Italian mainland: Manfredonia, Vieste and Peschici in summer, and Termoli in nearby Molise year-round. Most boats arrive at San Domino. Small boats regularly make the brief crossing to San Nicola (€6 return) in high season; from October to March a single boat makes the trip after meeting the boat from the mainland.

Valle d’Itria

Between the Ionian and Adriatic coasts rises the great limestone plateau of the Murgia (473m). It has a strange karst geology: the landscape is riddled with holes and ravines through which small streams and rivers gurgle, creating what is, in effect, a giant sponge. At the heart of the Murgia lies the idyllic Valle d'Itria.

The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards, almond and olive groves, and winding country lanes. This is the part of Puglia most visited by foreign tourists and is the best served by hotels and luxury masserias (working farms) or manor farms.

WORTH A TRIP

GROTTE DI CASTELLANA

The spectacular limestone caves of Grotte di Castellana ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 499 82 21; www.grottedicastellana.it; Piazzale Anelli; short/full tour €12/16; h9am-6pm Aug, shorter hours other months, by appointment Jan & Feb), 40km southeast of Bari, are Italy's longest natural subterranean network. The interlinked galleries, first discovered in 1938, contain an incredible range of underground landscapes, with extraordinary stalactite and stalagmite formations – look out for the jellyfish, the bacon and the stocking. The highlight is the Grotta Bianca (White Grotto), an eerie alabaster cavern hung with stiletto-thin stalactites. 'Speleonights' take small torch-wieding groups into the caves after dark, among the bats, beetles, and crustacea that live there.

There are two tours in English: a 1km, 50-minute tour that doesn't include the Grotta Bianca (€12, on the half-hour); and a 3km, two-hour tour (€16, on the hour) that does include it. The staff like you to assemble in good time before your scheduled tour, and remember that temperatures inside the cave averages 18°C, so take a light jacket.

In the same complex, you'll also find a speleology museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 499 82 30; www.grottedicastellana.it; Grotte di Castellana; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm mid-Mar–Oct, 10am-1pm Nov–mid-Mar) and an observatory ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 499 82 13; www.osservatorio.grottedicastellana.it; adult/child 6-14yr €5/3; htours by appointment Jul & Aug).

Grotte di Castellana can be reached by rail from Bari on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line (€3.20, 1¼ hours, roughly hourly).

Alberobello

Pop 10,750

Unesco World Heritage Site Alberobello resembles an urban sprawl – for gnomes. The zona dei trulli on the westernmost of the town's two hills is a dense mass of 1500 beehive-shaped houses, white-tipped as if dusted by snow. These dry-stone buildings are made from local limestone; none are older than the 14th century. Inhabitants do not wear pointy hats, but they do sell anything a visitor might (or might not) want, from miniature trulli to woollen shawls.

The town is named after the primitive oak forest Arboris Belli (beautiful trees) that once covered this area. It's an amazing place, but also something of a tourist trap – from May to October busloads of tourists pile into trullo homes, drink in trullo bars and shop in trullo shops.

If you park in Lago Martellotta, follow the steps up to Piazza del Popolo, where the Belvedere Trulli lookout offers fabulous views over the whole higgledy-piggledy picture.

1Sights

Rione MontiAREA

( GOOGLE MAP )

Within the old town quarter of Rione Monti more than 1000 trulli cascade down the hillside, many of which are now souvenir shops. The area is surprisingly quiet and atmospheric in the late evening, once the gaudy stalls have been stashed away.

Rione Aia PiccolaAREA

( GOOGLE MAP )

On the eastern side of Via Indipendenza is Rione Aia Piccola. This neighbourhood is much less commercialised than Rione Monti, with 400 trulli, many still used as family dwellings. You can climb up for a rooftop view at many shops, although most do have a strategically located basket for donations.

Trullo SovranoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 60 30; www.trullosovrano.eu; Piazza Sacramento 10; adult/reduced €1.50/1; h10am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)

Trullo Sovrano dates in parts to the early 17th century, and is Alberobello's only two-floor trullo. Built by a wealthy priest’s family, it’s now a small 'living' museum recreating trullo life, with sweet, rounded rooms that include a recreated bakery, bedroom and kitchen. The souvenir shop here has a wealth of literature on the town and surrounding area, plus Alberobello recipe books.

4Sleeping

Casa Albergo Sant'AntonioHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 29 13; www.santantonioalbergo.it; Via Isonzo 8a; s/d/tr/q €50/78/95/110; W)

Excellent value right in the heart of the Rione Monti neighbourhood, this simple hotel is in an old monastery and located next to a unique trulli-style church with a conical roof. The tiled rooms are relatively monastic and spartan, but will do the trick for the unfussy.

Camping dei TrulliCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 36 99; www.campingdeitrulli.com; Via Castellana Grotte km 1.5; camping 2 people & car €19.50, bungalows per person €20, trulli €40; pis)

This campground 1.5km out of town has some nice tent sites, a restaurant, a market, two swimming pools, tennis courts and bicycle hire. You can also rent trulli off the grounds. It has 120 pitches, 30 for campervans, lots of pines for shade and good shower blocks.

TrullideaRENTAL HOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 38 60; www.trullidea.it; Via Monte Sabotino 24; trulli from €120; W)

Trullidea has numerous renovated, quaint, cosy and atmospheric trulli (circular stone-built houses) in Alberobello's historic centre available on a self-catering, B&B, or half- or full-board basis. Half-board is €25 person, and the buffet breakfast is included in the price.

5Eating

Trattoria AmatulliTRATTORIA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 29 79; Via Garibaldi 13; meals €20; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun)

The cheerily cluttered interior of this excellent trattoria is papered with photos of smiley diners, obviously put in the best mood by dishes like orecchiette scure con cacioricotta pomodoro e rucola ('little ears' pasta with cheese, tomato and rucola). Wash it down with the surprisingly drinkable house wine, only €4 a litre. It won't add much to an invariably reasonable bill.

oTrattoria Terra MadreVEGETARIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 38 29; www.trattoriaterramadre.it; Piazza Sacramento 17; meals €30; h12.15-2.45pm & 7.15-9.45pm Tue-Sat, 12.15-2.45pm Sun; v)S

Vegetables take pride of place in Italian kitchens, especially at this enthusiastic vegtarian-ish (some meat is served) restaurant. The farm-to-table ethos rules – most of what you eat comes from the organic garden outside. Start with the huge vegetable antipasti and save room for primi like capunti 'Terra Madre' (pasta with eggplant, zucchini and peppers) and the perfect house-baked desserts.

Il Poeta ContadinoITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 19 17; www.ilpoetacontadino.it; Via Indipendenza 23; menu €65; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun Feb-Dec; v)

Vegetarians can be pleased here, as vegetables step timidly out of the contorni shadow, into the primi limelight. Alongside the swordfish, shrimp and clams that predominate, you'll find a flan of cave-aged cheese, celery and potato cream with turnip and ricotta, and other good, imaginative things. The dining room has a medieval feel, with its sumptuous decor and chandeliers.

8Information

Tourist Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 432 28 22; www.prolocoalberobello.it; Monte Nero 1; h9am-7pm)

Local office in the zona dei trulli.

8Getting There & Away

Alberobello is easily accessible from Bari (€4.90, 1½ hours, hourly) on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line. From the station, walk straight ahead along Via Mazzini, which becomes Via Garibaldi, to reach Piazza del Popolo.

Locorotondo

Locorotondo is endowed with a whisper-quiet pedestrianised centro storico, where everything is shimmering white aside from the blood-red geraniums that tumble from the window boxes. Situated on a hilltop on the Murge Plateau, it's a borgo più bella d'Italia (see http://borghipiubelliditalia.it) – that is, it's rated as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. There are few 'sights' as such – rather, the town itself is a sight. The streets are paved with smooth ivory-coloured stones, with the church of Santa Maria della Graecia as their sunbaked centrepiece.

From Villa Comunale, a public garden, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valley. You enter the historic quarter directly across from here.

Not only is this deepest trulli country, it's also the liquid heart of the Pugliese wine region. Sample some of the local verdeca at Controra.

4Sleeping

Locorotondo and the surrounding country are blessed when it comes to quality accommodation. If you're going to stay on a masseria or in a trullo whilst in Puglia, this is the place to do it.

TruddhiAGRITURISMO€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 443 13 26; www.trulliresidence.it; Contrada Trito 161; d/tr per week from €450/624; ps)

This charming cluster of 11 self-catering trulli (Puglia's traditional conical houses) in the hamlet of Trito near Locorotondo is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. It's a tranquil place and you can take cooking courses (per day €80) with Mino, a lecturer in gastronomy. The trulli sleep between two and six people, depending on size.

oSotto le CummerseAPARTMENT€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0804 31 32 98; www.sottolecummerse.it; Via Vittorio Veneto 138; apt incl breakfast from €200; aW)

At this albergo diffuso (dispersed hotel) you'll stay in one of 13 tastefully furnished apartments scattered throughout Locorotondo's centro storico. The apartments are traditional buildings that have been beautifully restored and furnished, and you can book activities such as horse riding, cooking classes and historical tours. A delightful base for exploring the Valle d'Itria.

5Eating & Drinking

oQuanto BastaPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 431 28 55; Via Morelli 12; pizza €7; h7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; W)

Craft beer and pizza make an excellent combination, no more so than at Quanto Basta, a quietly stylish old-town restaurant with wooden tables, soft lighting and stone floors. It's hard to stop at quanto basta ('just enough') when the pizza, carpaccio, salads and antipasti are so good, to say nothing of the lovely Itrian wines.

La Taverna del DucaTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 431 30 07; www.tavernadelducascatigna.it; Via Papatodero 3; meals €35; hnoon-3pm & 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun & Mon)

In a narrow side street off Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, this well-regarded trattoria serves robust Itrian fare such as pork cheek in a primitivo reduction and donkey stew. If they sound daunting, there's always Puglia's favourite pasta (orecchiette ‘little ears’ pasta), thick vegetable soup and other more comforting foods.

ControraWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 6874169; Via Nardelli 67)

Treat this laid-back little place either as a sandwich shop or wine bar, sampling prosit (sparkling rose), verdeca and other niche wines of the Valle d'Itria, all over amazing sandwiches, platters of regional produce and Locorotondo's uniformly stunning views.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 431 30 99; www.prolocolocorotondo.it; Piazza Emanuele 27; h9am-1pm & 5-7pm)

Offers free internet access and multilingual tourist information.

8Getting There & Away

Locorotondo is easily accessible via frequent trains from Bari (€5.60, 1½ to two hours) on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line.

MASSERIAS: LUXURY ON THE FARM

Masserias are unique to southern Italy. Modelled on the classical Roman villa, these fortified farmhouses – equipped with oil mills, cellars, chapels, storehouses and accommodation for workers and livestock – were built to function as self-sufficient communities. These days, they still produce the bulk of Italy's olive oil, but many have been converted into luxurious hotels, agriturismi (farm-stay accommodation), holiday apartments or restaurants. Staying in a masseria is a unique experience, especially when you can dine on home-grown produce.

oIl FrantoioAGRITURISMO€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 33 02 76; www.masseriailfrantoio.it; SS16 km 874, Ostuni; d €216; paiW)

Stay at this charming, whitewashed farmhouse, where the owners still live and work producing high-quality organic olive oil (a frantoio is an oil-press). Owner Armando takes guests for a tour of the farm each evening in his 1949 Fiat, and local producers are regularly invited to share their produce and the love they have for it.

oMasseria Torre MaizzaAGRITURISMO€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 482 78 38; www.masseriatorremaizza.com; Contrada Coccaro, Fasano; d/ste €568/696; aWs)

Definitely at the high end of the masseria experience is this luxurious agriturismo. You won't get your hands dirty, but you will destress – playing golf, riding horses, getting a massage, sweating it all out in the hammam or just lolling by the pool, drink in hand. There are two restaurants on-site and little expense has been spared in the suites.

Masseria Torre CoccaroAGRITURISMO€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 482 93 10; www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com; Contrada Coccaro 8, Fasano; d/ste €453/650; paWs)

For pure luxury, stay at this super chic yet countrified masseria. There's a glorious spa set in a cave, a beach-style swimming pool, cooking courses on offer and a restaurant (meals €90) dishing up home-grown produce. It's around 10km from Locorotondo.

Borgo San MarcoAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 439 57 57; www.borgosanmarco.it; Contrada Sant'Angelo 33, Fasano; ste €210; paWs)

Once a borgo (medieval town), this masseria has 16 rooms and a spa in the orchard, and manages to be both traditional while also having a bohemian edge. Nearby are some frescoed rock churches. Note: there's a four-night minimum stay in July, and seven-night minimum in August.

Cisternino

Pop 11,600

An appealing, whitewashed hilltop town, slow-paced Cisternino has a charming centro storico beyond its bland modern outskirts; with its kasbah-like knot of streets, it has been designated as one of the country's borghi più belli (most beautiful towns). Beside its 13th-century Chiesa Matrice and Torre Civica there's a pretty communal garden with rural views. If you take Via Basilioni next to the tower you can amble along an elegant route right to the central piazza, Vittorio Emanuele.

5Eating

MicroVEGETARIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 5315463; Via Santa Lucia 53; meals €20; h10am-3pm & 6-11pm Wed-Mon; v)

This tiny, charismatic little juice bar/lunch spot is the necessary counterbalance to the meaty excesses Cisternino is famous for. Boxloads of fresh vegetables and herbs arrive each morning, whatever's in the market, and are turned into soups, salads, torte, vegetarian sushi and more. There are some choices for carnis, but for once it's they who are the afterthought.

Rosticceria L'Antico BorgoBARBECUE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 444 64 00; www.rosticceria-lanticoborgo.it; Via Tarantini 9; meals €30; h6.30-11pm daily summer, Mon-Sat winter)

A classic fornello pronto (half butcher's shop, half trattoria), this is the place for a cheerful, no-frills meat fest. The menu is brief, listing a few simple pastas and various meat options (priced per kilo), including Cisternino's celebrated bombette (skewered pork wrapped around a piece of cheese). Choose your roast meat and eat it with red wine, chips and salad.

8Getting There & Away

Cisternino is accessible by regular trains from Bari (€5.80, 45 minutes). STP Brindisi runs hourly buses between Cisternino and Ostuni.

Martina Franca

The old quarter of this town is a picturesque scene of winding alleys, blinding white houses and blood-red geraniums. There are graceful baroque and rococo buildings here too, plus airy piazzas and curlicue ironwork balconies that almost touch above the narrow streets.

This town is the highest in the Murgia, and was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion of Taranto. It only started to flourish in the 14th century when Philip of Anjou granted tax exemptions (franchigie, hence Franca); the town became so wealthy that a castle and defensive walls complete with 24 solid bastions were built.

1Sights & Activities

The best way to appreciate Martina Franca's beauty is to wander around the centro storico's narrow lanes and alleyways.

Passing under the baroque Arco di Sant'Antonio at the western end of pedestrianised Piazza XX Settembre, you emerge into Piazza Roma, dominated by the imposing, 17th-century rococo Palazzo Ducale ( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 480 57 02; Piazza Roma 28; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Sep, shorter hours rest of year), whose upper rooms have semi-restored frescoed walls and host temporary art exhibitions.

From Piazza Roma, follow the fine Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with baroque townhouses, to reach Piazza Plebiscito, the centre's baroque heart. The piazza is overlooked by the 18th-century Basilica di San Martino, its centrepiece a statue of city patron, St Martin, swinging a sword and sharing his cloak with a beggar.

Walkers can ask for the free Carta dei Sentieri del Bosco delle Pianelle brochure at the tourist office, which maps out 10 walks in the nearby Bosco delle Pianelle (around 10km west of town). This lush woodland is part of the larger 1206-hectare Riserva Naturale Regionale Orientata, populated with lofty trees, wild orchids, and a rich and varied bird life, including kestrels, owls, buzzards, hoopoe and sparrow hawks. There's a small museum dedicated to the park in the Palazzo Ducale.

zFestivals & Events

Festival della Valle d’ItriaMUSIC

(%080 480 51 00; www.festivaldellavalleditria.it; single-event tickets from €15; hJul & Aug)

Festival della Valle d’Itria is a summer music festival that takes over Martina Franca's venues from mid-July to early August. Musical theatre, especially opera, tops the bill, but concertos and other recitals also abound. For information, contact the Centro Artistico Musicale Paolo Grassi in the Palazzo Ducale.

4Sleeping

Villaggio InAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 480 59 11; www.villaggioincasesparse.it; Via Arco Grassi 8; studio/apt/ste €75/90/160; aW)

These charming apartments are located in original centro storico homes. Arched stone ceilings, large pastel-coloured rooms and antique furniture are common features of the various apartments, which sleep two to six people. There's a self-serve laundry and vouchers for breakfast in a local cafe, but unfortunately the wi-fi only really works near reception.

B&B San MartinoB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 48 56 01; http://xoomer.virgilio.it/bed-and-breakfast-sanmartino; Via Abate Fighera 32; s/d from €50/80; as)

A stylish B&B in a historic palace with rooms overlooking gracious Piazza XX Settembre. The rooms have exposed stone walls, shiny parquet floors, wrought-iron beds and small kitchenettes (only one has a working cooker) and there's a pool to take a dip when it's hot.

5Eating

Don't miss the chance to try the capocollo – cured pork neck – that Martina Franca is famous for.

Gran CaffèCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 480 54 91; Via Santoro 7a; snacks €2-3; h7.30am-2am)

With a broad communal bar, ever-hissing espresso machines and outdoor tables aligned towards busy Piazza XX Settembre, this is the quintessential Italian cafe. Sit. People-watch. Sip coffee. Nibble cornetto. Repeat.

NausikaaITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 485 82 75; Vico Arco Fumarola 2; meals €30; hnoon-3pm Tue-Sun, 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat)

Tucked away down a dogleg alley off Martina Franca's main pedestrian drag is this lovely little modern Italian, run by brothers Francesco and Martino. Tradition is not sacrificed to forward-thinking, and vice versa – a 'caprese' salad, for instance, is stuffed inside a silky pasta bundle, anointed with 'basil pearls'. The Puglia-focused wine list is a joy, too.

Osteria GaribaldiOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 430 49 00; Via Garibaldi 17; meals €28; hnoon-3pm & 7.30pm-midnight Thu-Tue)

A highly recommended green-shuttered osteria in the centro storico. Delicious aromas entice you into the cave-like interior and the cucina tipica menu of typical Pugliese food doesn't disappoint. Worthy of a long lunch.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 480 57 02; www.agenziapugliapromozione.it; Piazza XX Settembre 3; h10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-7pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

The tourist office is to the right of the Arco di Sant'Antonio, just before you enter the old town.

8Getting There & Away

The FSE train station is downhill from the historic centre. From the train station, go right along Viale della Stazione, continue along Via Alessandro Fighera to Corso Italia, then continue to the left along Corso Italia to Piazza XX Settembre.

FSE (%080 546 21 11; www.fseonline.it) trains run to/from Bari (€5.60, 2¼ hours, hourly) and Taranto (€2.50, 50 minutes, four per day).

FSE buses run to Alberobello (€1.10, 20 minutes, frequent).

Ostuni

Pop 31,150

Chic Ostuni shines like a pearly white tiara, extending across three hills with the magnificent gem of a cathedral as its sparkling centrepiece. It's the end of the trulli region and the beginning of the hot, dry Salento. With some excellent restaurants, stylish bars and swish yet intimate places to stay, it's packed in summer.

Ostuni is surrounded by olive groves, so this is the place to buy some of the region's DOC 'Collina di Brindisi' olive oil – either delicate, medium or strong – direct from producers.

1Sights & Activities

The surrounding countryside is perfect for cycling. Ciclovagando ( GOOGLE MAP ; %330 985255; www.ciclovagando.com; Via Savoia 19, MesagneMesagne; per day/week from €20/110), based in Mesagne, 30km south of Ostuni, organises guided tours. Each tour covers approximately 20km and departs daily from various towns in the district, including Ostuni and Brindisi. For an extra €15, you can sample typical Pugliese foods on the tour.

Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche della MurgiaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 33 63 83; www.ostunimuseo.it; Via Cattedrale 15; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-1pm & 6-10pm Jul–mid-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)

Located in the Convento delle Monacelle, the museum's most famous exhibit is Delia, a 25,000-year-old expectant mother. Pregnant at the time of her death, her well-preserved skeleton was found in a local cave. Many of the finds here come from the Palaeolithic burial ground, now the Parco Archeologico e Naturale di Arignano ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 30 39 73; www.ostunimuseo.it; h9.30am-1pm Sun, or by appointment).

CathedralCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Beato Giovanni Paolo II; €1; h9am-noon & 3.30-7pm)

Dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Ostuni's dramatic 15th-century cathedral has an unusual Gothic-Romanesque-Byzantine facade with a frilly rose window and an inverted gable. The 18th-century sacred art covering the ceiling and altars is well worth stepping inside to see.

zFestivals & Events

La CavalcataRELIGIOUS

(hAug)

Ostuni's annual feast day is held on 26 August, when processions of horsemen dressed in glittering red-and-white uniforms (resembling Indian grooms on their way to be wed) follow the statue of Sant'Oronzo around town.

4Sleeping

Le Sole BluB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 30 38 56; www.webalice.it/solebluostuni; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16; s/d €40/80)

Located in the 18th-century (rather than medieval) part of town, Le Sole Blu only has one room available: fully renovated, it's large with a separate entrance, but the bathroom is tiny. However, the two self-catering apartments nearby are excellent value.

oLa TerraHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 33 66 51; www.laterrahotel.it; Via Petrarolo 16; d from €170; paW)

This former 13th-century palazzo offers atmospheric and stylish accommodation with original niches, dark-wood beams and furniture, and contrasting light stonework and whitewash. There's a colonnaded terrace, wi-fi throughout, a more-than-decent restaurant and a truly cavernous bar – tunnelled out of a cave.

5Eating

Osteria del Tempo PersoPUGLIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 30 33 20; www.osteriadeltempoperso.com; Via Vitale 47; meals €35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun, open Mon Jul & Aug)

A wonderful temple of Pugliese cuisine in a cavernous former bakery, this laid-back place makes masterful use of the best of the region's produce, from Martina Franca's capocollo (cured pork neck) to whatever's been hauled from the nearby sea. If you're in Ostuni for a while, and want to get deeper into Puglia's food, consider the cooking courses the osteria offers.

Osteria Piazzetta CattedraleOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 33 50 26; www.piazzettacattedrale.it; Largo Arcidiacono 7; meals €40; h12.30-3pm & 7pm-12.30am Wed-Mon; v)

This compact osteria serves up great food in a setting that manages to keep it classy, despite a kitsch chandelier and muzak soundtrack competing with more tasteful mise-en-scene. While lovers of fish, fowl and flesh won't be disappointed, the menu includes plenty of vegetarian options, making great use of local mushrooms, cheeses and greens.

oPorta NovaITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 33 89 83; www.ristoranteportanova.com; Via Petrarolo 38; meals €50; h1-3.30pm & 7-11pm)

Scenically installed in the Aragonese fortifications, this terraced restaurant is a special occasion charmer. Seafood is wonderful here, with a whole section of the menu devoted to crudo mare (raw fish). Ease into what will be a splendid hour or so of indulgence with seabass carpaccio, then ramp it up with rosemary-scented Gallipoli prawns on beech-smoked potato.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0831 33 96 27, 0831 30 12 68; Corso Mazzini 6; h8am-2pm & 3-8pm)

Located off Piazza della Libertà, this helpful office can organise guided visits of the town in summer, and bike rental.

8Getting There & Away

STP Brindisi buses run to Brindisi (€3.10, 50 minutes, six daily) and to Martina Franca (€2.10, 45 minutes, three daily), leaving from Piazza Italia in the newer part of Ostuni.

Trains run frequently to Brindisi (€4, 25 minutes) and Bari (€9, 50 minutes). A half-hourly local bus covers the 2.5km between the station and town.

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Eat

Best Places to Sleep

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Highlights

Puglia

Bari

HEADING EAST

Around Bari

WORTH A TRIP

FREDERICK II'S TOY CASTLE

Trani

Polignano a Mare

Promontorio del Gargano

Vieste

2Driving TourItaly's Authentic South

Monte Sant'Angelo

Peschici

Foresta Umbra

Isole Tremiti

Valle d’Itria

WORTH A TRIP

GROTTE DI CASTELLANA

Alberobello

Locorotondo

MASSERIAS: LUXURY ON THE FARM

Cisternino

Martina Franca

Ostuni

`2`Driving Tour
Italy's Authentic South