Sicily

Why Go?

More of a sugar-spiked espresso than a milky cappuccino, Sicily rewards visitors with an intense, bittersweet experience. Overloaded with art treasures and natural beauty, undersupplied with infrastructure, and continuously struggling against Mafia-driven corruption, Sicily's complexities sometimes seem unfathomable. To really appreciate this place, come with an open mind – and a healthy appetite. Despite the island's perplexing contradictions, one factor remains constant: the uncompromisingly high quality of the cuisine.

After 25 centuries of foreign domination, Sicilians are the heirs to an impressive cultural legacy, from the refined architecture of Magna Graecia to the Byzantine splendour and Arab craftwork of the island's Norman cathedrals and palaces. This cultural richness is matched by a startlingly diverse landscape that includes bucolic farmland, smouldering volcanoes and kilometres of island-studded aquamarine coastline.

When to Go

Easter Colourful religious processions and marzipan lambs in every bakery window.
May Wildflowers, dreamy coastal walking and Syracuse's festival of classic drama.
Sep Warm weather and seaside fun without summer prices.

Best Places to Eat

A Accursio

A Il Barcaiolo

A Ristorante Crocifisso

A Osteria La Bettolaccia

A Punta Lena

Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Ravesi

A B&B Crociferi

A Stanze al Genio Residenze

A Villa Quartarella

A Pensione Tranchina

Sicily Highlights

1 Teatro Massimo Joining the ranks of impeccably dressed opera-goers at this elegant theatre in Palermo.

2 Catania Bargaining with fish vendors at dawn, climbing Europe's most active volcano in the afternoon, and returning to buzzing nightlife.

3 Segesta Marvelling at the majesty of the 5th-century ruins, whose Doric temple sits in splendid isolation on a windswept hillside.

4 Taormina Watching international stars perform against Mt Etna's breathtaking backdrop at summer festivals.

5 Aeolian Islands Observing Stromboli's volcanic fireworks and hiking to your heart's content on these stunningly scenic islands.

6 Syracuse Wandering aimlessly in Ortygia's atmospheric alleys or stepping back in time at an Ancient Greek theatre performance.

7 Villa Romana del Casale Admiring prancing wild beasts and dancing bikini-clad gymnasts on the mosaic floors.

8 Cefalù Being dazzled by Byzantine mosaics and splendid coastal sunsets.

History

Sicily's most deeply ingrained cultural influences originate from its first inhabitants – the Sicani from North Africa, the Siculi from Latium (Italy) and the Elymni from Greece. The subsequent colonisation of the island by the Carthaginians (also from North Africa) and the Greeks, in the 8th and 6th centuries BC respectively, compounded this cultural divide through decades of war when powerful opposing cities struggled to dominate the island.

Although part of the Roman Empire, Sicily didn't truly come into its own until after the Arab invasions of AD 831. Trade, farming and mining were all fostered under Arab influence and Sicily soon became an enviable prize for European opportunists. The Normans, desperate for a piece of the pie, invaded in 1061 and made Palermo the centre of their expanding empire and the finest city in the Mediterranean.

Impressed by the cultured Arab lifestyle, Norman king Roger squandered vast sums on ostentatious palaces and churches and encouraged a hedonistic atmosphere in his court. But such prosperity – and decadence (Roger's grandson, William II, even had a harem) – inevitably gave rise to envy and resentment and, after two centuries of pleasure and profit, the Norman line was extinguished. The kingdom passed to the austere German House of Hohenstaufen with little opposition from the seriously eroded and weakened Norman occupation.

In the centuries that followed, Sicily passed to the Holy Roman Emperors, Angevins (French) and Aragonese (Spanish) in a turmoil of rebellion and revolution that continued until the Spanish Bourbons united Sicily with Naples in 1734 as the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Little more than a century later, on 11 May 1860, Giuseppe Garibaldi planned his daring and dramatic unification of Italy from Marsala on Sicily's western coast.

Reeling from this catalogue of colonisers, Sicilians struggled in poverty-stricken conditions. Unified with Italy, but no better off, nearly one million men and women emigrated to the US between 1871 and 1914 before the outbreak of WWI.

Ironically, the Allies (seeking Mafia help in America for the re-invasion of Italy) helped in establishing the Mafia's stranglehold on Sicily. In the absence of suitable administrators, they invited the undesirable mafioso (Mafia boss) Don Calógero Vizzini to do the job. When Sicily became a semi-autonomous region in 1948, Mafia control extended right to the heart of politics and the region plunged into a 50-year silent civil war. It only started to emerge from this after the anti-Mafia maxi-trials of the 1980s, in which Sicily's revered magistrates Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino hauled hundreds of Mafia members into court, leading to important prosecutions.

The assassinations of Falcone and Borsellino in 1992 helped galvanise Sicilian public opposition to the Mafia's inordinate influence, and while organised crime lives on, the thuggery and violence of the 1980s has diminished. A growing number of businesses refuse to pay the extortionate protection money known as the pizzo, and important arrests continue, further encouraging those who would speak out against the Mafia.

On the political front, anti-Mafia crusaders currently serve in two of the island's most powerful positions: Palermo mayor Leoluca Orlando and Sicilian governor Rosario Crocetta. Nowadays the hot topics on everyone's mind are the island's continued economic struggles and Sicily's role as the gateway for the flood of immigrants from northern Africa.

8Getting There & Away

Air

A number of airlines fly direct to Palermo (PMO) and Catania (CTA), Sicily's two main international airports. A few also serve the smaller airports of Trapani (TPS) and Comiso (CIY). Alitalia (%89 20 10; www.alitalia.com) is the main Italian carrier, while Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) is the leading low-cost airline serving Sicily.

Boat

Regular car and passenger ferries cross the strait between Villa San Giovanni (Calabria) and Messina, while hydrofoils connect Messina with Reggio di Calabria.

Sicily is also accessible by ferry from Naples, Genoa, Civitavecchia, Livorno, Salerno, Cagliari, Malta and Tunis. Prices rise between June and September, when advanced bookings may also be required.

Sicily Ferry & Hydrofoil Crossings

Route	Cost per adult from (€)	Duration (hr)
Genoa–Palermo	80	20
Malta–Pozzallo	70	1¾
Naples–Catania	45	11
Naples–Palermo	45	10
Naples–Trapani	108	7
Reggio di Calabria–Messina	3.50	35min
Tunis–Palermo	49	10

Bus

SAIS Trasporti (%091 617 11 41; www.saistrasporti.it) runs long-haul services to Sicily from Rome and Naples.

Train

For travellers originating in Rome and points south, InterCity trains cover the distance from mainland Italy to Sicily in the least possible time, without a change of train. If coming from Milan, Bologna or Florence, your fastest option is to take the ultra-high-speed Frecciarossa as far as Naples, then change to an InterCity train for the rest of the journey.

All trains enter Sicily at Messina, after being transported by ferry from Villa San Giovanni at the toe of Italy's boot. At Messina, trains branch west along the Tyrrhenian coast to Palermo, or south along the Ionian coast to Catania.

8Getting Around

Air

Mistral Air (www.mistralair.it) offers direct flights to the offshore islands of Pantelleria (from Palermo and Trapani) and Lampedusa (from Palermo and Catania).

Bus

Bus services within Sicily are provided by a variety of companies. Buses are usually the fastest option if your destination involves travel through the island's interior; trains tend to be cheaper (and sometimes faster) on the major coastal routes. In small towns and villages tickets are often sold in bars or on the bus.

Car & Motorcycle

Having your own vehicle is advantageous in the interior, where public transport is often slow and limited. Autostradas connect the major cities and are generally of good quality, especially the A18 and A20 toll roads, running along the Ionian and Tyrrhenian coasts, respectively. Even so, the island's highways have suffered some high-profile problems in recent years – most notably the landslide-induced collapse of a key section of the A19 between Catania and Palermo in 2015. Drive defensively; Sicilian drivers are some of Italy's most aggressive, with a penchant for overtaking on blind corners, while holding a mobile phone in one hand and gesticulating wildly with the other!

Train

Sicily's train service is very efficient along the north and east coasts. Services to towns in the interior tend be infrequent and slow, but the routes can be very picturesque. InterCity trains are the fastest and most expensive, while the regionale is the slowest.

Palermo

Pop 657,000

Palermo is a city of both decay and splendour, and – provided you can handle its raw energy, deranged driving and chaos – has plenty of appeal. Unlike Florence or Rome, many of the city's treasures are hidden, rather than scrubbed up for endless streams of tourists.

At one time an Arab emirate and the seat of a Norman kingdom, Palermo became Europe's grandest city in the 12th century, then underwent a further round of aesthetic transformations during 500 years of Spanish rule. The resulting treasure trove of palaces, castles and churches has a unique architectural fusion of Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Renaissance and baroque gems.

While some of the crumbling palazzi (mansions) bombed in WWII are being restored, others remain dilapidated, turned into shabby apartments, the faded glory of their ornate facades just visible behind strings of brightly coloured washing. The evocative history of the city remains very much part of the daily life of its inhabitants, and the dusty web of backstreet markets in the old quarter has a Middle Eastern feel.

The flip side is the modern city, a mere 15-minute stroll away, parts of which could be neatly jigsawed and slotted into Paris, with a grid system of wide avenues lined by seductive shops and handsome 19th-century apartments.

Palermo

1Top Sights

1Cattedrale di PalermoB6

2Fontana PretoriaD5

3Galleria Regionale della SiciliaG5

4Mercato di BallaròD7

5Palazzo dei NormanniB7

6Teatro MassimoC4

1Sights

7Chiesa Capitolare di San CataldoD6

8Chiesa di San Giovanni degli EremitiB7

9Galleria d'Arte ModernaE6

10La MartoranaD6

11Mercato del CapoB5

12Museo Archeologico RegionaleD4

13Museo delle MaiolicheE6

14Museo dell'InquisizioneF5

15Oratorio di San DomenicoD4

16Oratorio di Santa CitaD4

4Sleeping

17B&B AmélieC2

18Butera 28G5

19Grand Hotel Piazza BorsaE5

20Massimo Plaza HotelC4

21Palazzo PantaleoB3

Stanze al Genio ResidenzeE6

5Eating

22Bisso BistrotD5

23Francu U VastiddaruE5

24Friggitoria ChiluzzoG5

25Il Maestro del BrodoE5

26Osteria BallaròE5

27Pasticceria CappelloB2

28Trattoria Ai CascinariA5

29Trattoria al Vecchio Club RosaneroC5

6Drinking & Nightlife

30Bocum MixologyE4

31Kursaal KalhesaG5

3Entertainment

32Teatro dei Pupi di Mimmo CuticchioC4

Teatro MassimoC4

33Teatro Politeama GaribaldiC2

7Shopping

34Gusti di SiciliaC2

35Il Laboratorio TeatraleC4

Transport

36AMAT Bus to MonrealeA7

ASTF7

37AST Bus to MonrealeE7

Autoservizi TarantolaF7

38Bus to AirportE7

39Buses for AirportB2

40Buses to MondelloC2

41CuffaroF7

42Grandi Navi VelociD1

43Grimaldi LinesD1

44Intercity Bus StopF7

45Liberty LinesF1

46Piazzetta Cairoli Bus TerminalF8

Prestia e ComandèE7

SAIS AutolineeF8

SAIS TrasportiF7

SalemiF8

47TirreniaD1

1Sights & Activities

Via Maqueda is the main street, running north from the train station, changing names to Via Ruggero Settimo as it passes the landmark Teatro Massimo, then finally widening into leafy Viale della Libertà north of Piazza Castelnuovo, the beginning of the city's modern district.

Around the Quattro Canti

The busy intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda is known as the Quattro Canti. Forming the civic heart of Palermo, this crossroads neatly divides the historic nucleus into four traditional quarters – Albergheria, Capo, Vucciria and La Kalsa.

oFontana PretoriaSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Pretoria)

This huge and ornate fountain, with tiered basins and sculptures rippling in concentric circles, forms the centrepiece of Piazza Pretoria, a spacious square just south of the Quattro Canti. The city bought the fountain in 1573; however, the flagrant nudity of the provocative nymphs proved too much for Sicilian churchgoers attending Mass next door, and they prudishly dubbed it the Fountain of Shame.

La MartoranaCHURCH

(Chiesa di Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Bellini 3; adult/reduced €2/1; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9-10.30am Sun)

On the southern side of Piazza Bellini, this luminously beautiful 12th-century church was endowed by King Roger's Syrian emir, George of Antioch, and was originally planned as a mosque. Delicate Fatimid pillars support a domed cupola depicting Christ enthroned amid his archangels. The interior is best appreciated in the morning, when sunlight illuminates magnificent Byzantine mosaics.

Chiesa Capitolare di San CataldoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Bellini 3; adult/reduced €2.50/1.50; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm)

With its dusky-pink bijou domes, solid square shape, blind arcading and delicate tracery, this 12th-century church perfectly embodies the synthesis of Arab and Norman architectural styles. The interior, while more austere, has a lovely inlaid floor and some fine stone- and brickwork.

Albergheria

Southwest of the Quattro Canti, Albergheria is a rather shabby, rundown district once inhabited by Norman court officials, now home to a growing number of immigrants who are attempting to revitalise its dusty backstreets. The top tourist draws here are the Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace) and its exquisite chapel, both at the neighbourhood's far western edge.

oPalazzo dei NormanniPALACE

(Palazzo Reale; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 626 28 33; www.federicosecondo.org; Piazza Indipendenza 1; adult/reduced Fri-Mon €12/10, Tue-Thu €10/8; h8.15am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 12.15pm Sun)

This venerable palace dates to the 9th century but owes its current look (and name) to a major 12th-century Norman makeover, during which spectacular mosaics were added to its Royal Apartments and priceless jewel of a chapel, the Cappella Palatina. Designed by Roger II in 1130, the chapel glitters with stunning gold mosaics, its aesthetic harmony further enhanced by the inlaid marble floors and wooden muqarnas ceiling, a masterpiece of Arab-style honeycomb carving that reflects Norman Sicily's cultural complexity.

The chapel is Palermo's top tourist attraction. Note that queues are likely, and that you'll be refused entry if you're wearing shorts, a short skirt or a low-cut top. The top level of the palace's three-tiered loggia houses Sicily's regional parliament and the Royal Apartments, including the mosaic-lined Sala dei Venti, and Sala di Ruggero II, King Roger's magnificent 12th-century bedroom. These latter attractions are only open to visitors from Friday to Monday.

Chiesa di San Giovanni degli EremitiCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 651 50 19; Via dei Benedettini 20; adult/reduced €6/3; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)

Surrounded by a garden of citrus trees, palms, cacti and ruined walls, this remarkable, five-domed remnant of Arab-Norman architecture is hidden away in an otherwise rather squalid neighbourhood. It's built atop a mosque that itself was superimposed on an earlier chapel. The peaceful Norman cloisters outside offer lovely views of the Palazzo dei Normanni.

oMercato di BallaròMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)

Snaking for several city blocks southeast of Palazzo dei Normanni is Palermo's busiest street market, which throbs with activity well into the early evening. It's a fascinating mix of noises, smells and street life, and the cheapest place for everything from Chinese padded bras to fresh produce, fish, meat, olives and cheese – smile nicely for a taste.

Capo

Northwest of Quattro Canti is the Capo neighbourhood, a densely packed web of interconnected streets and blind alleys.

oCattedrale di PalermoCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 33 43 73; www.cattedrale.palermo.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele; cathedral free, tombs €1.50, treasury & crypt €2, roof €5, all-inclusive ticket adult/reduced €7/5; hcathedral 7am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun, royal tombs, treasury & roof 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, tombs only 10am-1pm Sun)

A feast of geometric patterns, ziggurat crenellations, maiolica cupolas and blind arches, Palermo's cathedral has suffered aesthetically from multiple reworkings over the centuries, but remains a prime example of Sicily's unique Arab-Norman architectural style. The interior, while impressive in scale, is essentially a marble shell whose most interesting features are the royal Norman tombs (to the left as you enter) and the treasury, home to Constance of Aragon's gem-encrusted 13th-century crown. For panoramic city views, climb to the cathedral's roof.

Mercato del CapoMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sant'Agostino; h7am-8pm Mon, Tue, Thu-Sat, to 1pm Wed & Sun)

Capo's street market, running the length of Via Sant'Agostino, is a seething mass of colourful activity during the day, with vendors selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, cheese and household goods of every description.

Catacombe dei CappucciniCATACOMB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.catacombepalermo.it; Piazza Cappuccini; adult/child under 8yr €3/free; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm, closed Sun afternoon Nov-Mar)

These catacombs house the mummified bodies and skeletons of some 8000 Palermitans who died between the 17th and 19th centuries. Earthly power, gender, religion and professional status are still rigidly distinguished, with men and women occupying separate corridors, and virgins set aside in a first-class section. From Piazza Indipendenza, it's a 15-minute walk.

Vucciria

Once a notorious den of Mafia activity, the Vucciria retains a grungy, authentic edge. In the evenings it becomes a mecca for bar-hopping and seriously down-to-earth street food. It's also home to some of Palermo's finest baroque artwork.

Museo Archeologico RegionaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 611 68 07; www.regione.sicilia.it/bbccaa/salinas; Piazza Olivella 24; h9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun)F

Situated in a converted Renaissance monastery, this splendid, wheelchair-accessible museum has been undergoing renovations since 2010, and has partially reopened, with attractive new exhibition spaces spread around its gracious courtyard. It houses some of Sicily's most valuable Greek and Roman artefacts, including the museum's crown jewel, a series of original decorative friezes from the temples at Selinunte.

Oratorio di Santa CitaCHAPEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ilgeniodipalermo.com; Via Valverde; admission €4, incl Oratorio di San Domenico €6; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

This 17th-century chapel showcases the breathtaking stucco work of Giacomo Serpotta, who famously introduced rococo to Sicilian churches. Note the elaborate Battle of Lepanto on the entrance wall. Depicting the Christian victory over the Turks, it's framed by stucco drapes held by hundreds of naughty cherubs modelled on Palermo's street urchins. Serpotta's virtuosity also dominates the side walls, where sculpted white stucco figures hold gilded swords, shields and a lute, and a golden snake (Serpotta's symbol) curls around a picture frame.

Oratorio di San DomenicoCHAPEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ilgeniodipalermo.com; Via dei Bambinai 2; admission €4, incl Oratorio di Santa Cita €6; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Dominating this small chapel is Anthony Van Dyck's fantastic blue-and-red altarpiece, The Virgin of the Rosary with St Dominic and the Patronesses of Palermo. Van Dyck completed the work in Genoa in 1628, after leaving Palermo in fear of the plague. Also gracing the chapel are Giacomo Serpotta's amazingly elaborate stuccoes (1710–17), vivacious and whirling with figures. Serpotta's name meant 'lizard' or 'small snake', and he often included these signature reptiles in his work; see if you can find one!

La Kalsa

Due to its proximity to the port, La Kalsa was subjected to carpet bombing during WWII, leaving it derelict and run down. Mother Teresa considered it akin to the shanty towns of Calcutta and established a mission here. Certain areas of La Kalsa, especially the part nearest the Quattro Canti, have undergone extensive renovation in recent years – for example, the former stock exchange has been converted into a high-end hotel. However, the neighbourhood still feels scruffy around the edges, with a decaying ambience that some will find intriguing, others off-putting.

oGalleria Regionale della SiciliaMUSEUM

(Palazzo Abatellis; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 623 00 11; Via Alloro 4; adult/reduced €8/4; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)

Housed in the stately 15th-century Palazzo Abatellis, this fine museum features works by Sicilian artists from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. Its greatest treasure is Triunfo della Morte (Triumph of Death), a magnificent fresco in which Death is represented as a demonic skeleton mounted on a wasted horse, brandishing a wicked-looking scythe while leaping over his hapless victims.

Museo dell'InquisizioneMUSEUM

(Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 2389 3788; Piazza Marina 61; adult/reduced €8/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Housed in the lower floors and basements of the 14th-century Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri, this unique museum offers a chilling but fascinating look at the legacy of the Inquisition in Palermo. Thousands of 'heretics' were detained here between 1601 and 1782; the honeycomb of former cells has been painstakingly restored to reveal multiple layers of their graffiti and artwork (religious and otherwise). Excellent guided visits of the prison and the palace itself are available in English with advance notice.

Galleria d'Arte ModernaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 843 16 05; www.gampalermo.it; Via Sant'Anna 21; adult/reduced €7/5; h9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun)

This wheelchair-accessible museum is housed in a sleekly renovated 15th-century palazzo and former convent. The wide-ranging collection of 19th- and 20th-century Sicilian art is beautifully displayed on three floors, along with regular modern-art exhibitions. There's an excellent bookshop and gift shop. English-language audio guides cost €4.

New City

North of Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, Palermo elegantly slips into cosmopolitan mode. Here you'll find fabulous neoclassical and art nouveau buildings hailing from the last golden age of Sicilian architecture, along with late 19th-century mansion blocks lining the broad boulevard of Viale della Libertà.

oTeatro MassimoTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tour reservations 091 605 32 67; www.teatromassimo.it; Piazza Giuseppe Verdi; guided tours adult/reduced €8/5; h9.30am-6pm)

Palermo's grand neoclassical opera house took more than 20 years to complete and has become one of the city's iconic landmarks. The closing scene of The Godfather: Part III, with its visually stunning juxtaposition of high culture, crime, drama and death, was filmed here. Guided 25-minute tours are offered throughout the day in English, Spanish, French, German and Italian.

zFestivals & Events

Festino di Santa RosaliaRELIGIOUS

(U Fistinu; www.festinodisantarosaliapalermo.it; h10-15 Jul)

Palermo's biggest annual festival celebrates patron saint Santa Rosalia, beloved for having saved the city from a 17th-century plague. The most colourful festivities take place on the evening of 14 July, when the saint's relics are paraded aboard a grand chariot from the Palazzo dei Normanni through the Quattro Canti to the waterfront, where fireworks and general merriment ensue.

4Sleeping

Budget options can be found around Via Maqueda and Via Roma in the vicinity of the train station. Midrange and top-end hotels are concentrated further north. Parking usually costs an extra €10 to €15 per day.

oStanze al Genio ResidenzeB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %380 3673773; www.stanzealgeniobnb.it; Via Garibaldi 11; s/d €75/98; aW)

Speckled with Sicilian antiques, this B&B offers four gorgeous bedrooms, three with 19th-century ceiling frescoes. All four are spacious and thoughtfully appointed, with Murano lamps, old wooden wardrobes, the odd balcony railing turned bedhead, and top-quality, orthopaedic beds. That the property features beautiful maiolica tiles is no coincidence; the B&B is affiliated with the wonderful Museo delle Maioliche (Stanze al Genio; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %340 0971561; www.stanzealgenio.it; Via Garibaldi 11; adult/reduced €7/5; hby appointment) downstairs.

B&B AmélieB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %328 8654824, 091 33 59 20; www.bb-amelie.it; Via Prinicipe di Belmonte 94; s €40-60, d €60-90, tr €90-100; aiW)

On a pedestrianised New City street a stone's throw from Teatro Politeama, the affable, multilingual Angela has converted her grandmother's spacious 6th-floor flat into a cheery B&B. Rooms are colourfully decorated, and the corner triple has a sunny terrace. Angela, a native Palermitan, generously shares her local knowledge and serves a tasty breakfast featuring homemade cakes and jams.

Palazzo PantaleoB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 54 71; www.palazzopantaleo.it; Via Ruggero Settimo 74h; s/d/ste €80/100/150; pW)

Offering unbeatable comfort and a convenient location, Giuseppe Scaccianoce's classy B&B occupies the top floor of an old palazzo half a block from Piazza Politeama, hidden from the busy street in a quiet courtyard with free parking. Five rooms and one spacious suite feature high ceilings, marble, tile or wooden floors, soundproof windows and modern bathrooms.

Butera 28APARTMENT€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %333 3165432; www.butera28.it; Via Butera 28; apt per day €70-220, per week €450-1500; aWc)

Delightful multilingual owner Nicoletta rents 12 comfortable apartments in the 18th-century Palazzo Lanzi Tomasi, the last home of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. Units range from 30 to 180 sq metres, most sleeping a family of four or more. Four apartments face the sea; most have laundry facilities; and all have well-equipped kitchens.

Massimo Plaza HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 56 57; www.massimoplazahotel.com; Via Maqueda 437; r €100-250; paW)

Boasting a prime location along Palermo's pedestrianised Via Maqueda, this older hotel is a Palermo classic. Seven of the 15 rooms boast full-on views of the iconic Teatro Massimo across the street. The included breakfast (continental or American) can be delivered directly to your room at no extra charge, and enclosed parking costs €15 per day.

Grand Hotel Piazza BorsaHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 00 75; www.piazzaborsa.com; Via dei Cartari 18; s/d/ste from €154/208/454; paiW)

Grandly situated in Palermo's former stock exchange, this four-star hotel encompasses three separate buildings housing 127 rooms. Nicest are the high-ceilinged suites with jacuzzis and windows facing Piazza San Francesco. Parking costs €18 per 24-hour period.

5Eating

Restaurants rarely start to fill up before 9pm. Many places close on Sundays, especially in the evening. For cheap eats, wander the tangle of alleys east and south of Teatro Massimo, or snack with locals at the street-food carts in Palermo's markets.

oTrattoria al Vecchio Club RosaneroSICILIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 251 12 34; Vicolo Caldomai 18; meals €15; h1-3.30pm Mon-Sat & 8-11pm Thu-Sat; W)

A veritable shrine to the city’s football team (rosa nero refers to the team’s colours, pink and black), cavernous Vecchio Club scores goals with its bargain-priced, flavour-packed grub. Fish and seafood are the real fortes here; if it's on the menu, order the caponata e pesce spada (sweet-and-sour vegetable salad with swordfish), a culinary victory. Head in early to avoid a wait.

oBisso BistrotBISTRO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %328 1314595, 091 33 49 99; Via Maqueda 172; meals €14-18; h9am-11.30pm Mon-Sat)

Frescoed walls, high ceilings and reasonably priced appetisers, primi and secondi greet diners at this historic Liberty-style bookstore at the northwest corner of the Quattro Canti, which has been converted into a classy but casual bistro. Lunch and dinner menus range from traditional Sicilian pasta, meat and fish dishes to sardine burgers, with cafe service in the mornings and afternoons.

Trattoria Ai CascinariSICILIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 651 98 04; Via d'Ossuna 43/45; meals €20-25; h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun, plus 8-10.30pm Wed-Sat)

Yes, it’s a bit out of the way, but this friendly neighbourhood trattoria, 1km north of the Cappella Palatina, is a long-standing Palermitan favourite, and deservedly so. It’s especially enjoyable on Sunday afternoons, when locals pack the labyrinth of back rooms and waiters perambulate nonstop with plates of scrumptious seasonal antipasti, fresh seafood and desserts.

Pasticceria CappelloPASTRIES€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 611 37 69; www.pasticceriacappello.it; Via Nicolò Garzilli 19; desserts from €1.70; h7.30am-9.30pm Thu-Tue)

One of Palermo's finest bakeries, Cappello is famous for its setteveli (seven-layer chocolate-hazelnut cake), invented here and long since copied all over Palermo. Its display case brims with countless other splendid pastries and desserts, including the dreamy delizia di pistacchio (a granular pistachio cake topped with creamy icing and a chocolate medallion) and ricotta-filled treats such as cannoli and sfogliatelle.

Il Maestro del BrodoTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 95 23; Via Pannieri 7; meals €22-31; hnoon-3pm Tue-Sun, plus 7.30-11pm Fri & Sat)

This no-frills trattoria in the Vucciria offers delicious soups, an array of ultrafresh seafood and a sensational antipasto buffet (€8) featuring a dozen-plus homemade delicacies: sarde a beccafico (stuffed sardines), eggplant involtini (roulades), smoked fish, artichokes with parsley, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and more.

Osteria BallaròSICILIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 64 88; www.osteriaballaro.it; Via Calascibetta 25; meals €30-45; hnoon-3.15pm & 7-11.15pm)

This classy restaurant-cum-wine bar marries an atmospheric setting with fantastic island cooking. Bare stone columns, exposed brick walls and vaulted ceilings set the stage for delicious seafood primi, local wines and memorable Sicilian dolci (sweets). Reservations recommended. For a faster eat, you can snack on street food at the bar or take away from the hole-in-the-wall counter outside.

DON'T MISS

PALERMO'S STREET FOOD

If you were taught that it is bad manners to eat in the street, you can break the rule in good company here. The mystery is how Palermo is not the obesity capital of Europe, given how much eating goes on. Palermitans are at it all the time: when they're shopping, commuting, discussing business, romancing…basically at any time of the day. What they're enjoying is the buffitieri – little hot snacks prepared at stalls and meant to be eaten on the spot.

Kick off the morning with pane e panelle, Palermo's famous chickpea fritter sandwich – great for vegetarians and a welcome change from a sweet custard-filled croissant. If you like, ask for it with a few crocchè, potato croquettes flavoured with fresh mint, also cheekily nicknamed cazzilli (little penises). Then again, you might want to go for some sfincione (a spongy, oily pizza topped with onions and caciocavallo cheese). In summer, locals also enjoy a freshly baked brioche filled with gelato or a granita (crushed ice mixed with fresh fruit, almonds, pistachios or coffee).

From 4pm onwards the snacks become decidedly more carnivorous, and you may wish you hadn't read the following translations: how about some barbecued stigghiola (goat intestines filled with onions, cheese and parsley), for example? Or a couple of pani ca meusa (bread rolls stuffed with sautéed beef spleen)? You'll be asked if you want your roll schietta (single) or maritata (married). If you choose schietta, the roll will only have ricotta in it before being dipped into boiling lard; choose maritata and you'll get the beef spleen as well.

You'll find street-food stalls all over town. Classic spots include Piazza Caracciolo in the Vucciria district, Francu u Vastiddaru ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 102; sandwiches €1.50-3.50; h8am-1am) and Friggitoria Chiluzzo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza della Kalsa; sandwiches €1.50-2; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) in the Kalsa, and the no-name pane e panelle cart on Piazza Carmine in Ballarò market.

For expert guidance, check out the low-key tours offered by Palermo Street Food (www.palermostreetfood.com; 3hr tours per person €30) and Streaty (www.streaty.com; 3/4hr tours per person adult/reduced €39/30). Both offer the chance to wander Palermo's backstreets with a knowledgeable local guide, stopping for a taste (or two, or three) at the city's most authentic hang-outs.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Palermo's liveliest clusters of bars can be found along Via Chiavettieri in the Vucciria neighbourhood (just northwest of Piazza Marina) and in the Champagneria district east of Teatro Massimo, centred on Piazza Olivella, Via Spinuzza and Via Patania. Higher-end bars and dance venues are concentrated in the newer part of Palermo. In summer, many Palermitans decamp to Mondello by the sea.

Bocum MixologyCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 33 20 09; www.bocum.it; Via dei Cassari 6; h6pm-1.30am Tue-Sun)

All hail Bocum, Palermo’s first proper cocktail bar. While the ground-floor cantina is a fine spot for cognoscenti wines and DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) salumi (charcuterie), the real magic happens upstairs. Here, on your right, lies the mixology lounge, where skilled hands shake and stir seamless, nuanced libations. Add flickering candlelight and crackling jazz, and you have yourself one rather bohemian Palermo evening.

Kursaal KalhesaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %340 1573493; www.facebook.com/kursaalkalhesa; Foro Umberto I 21; h8pm-12.30am Tue & Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri-Sun)

Re-styled Kursaal Kalhesa has long been a noted city nightspot. Touting itself as a restaurant, wine bar and jazz club, it draws a cool, in-the-know crowd who come to hang out over aperitivi, dine alfresco or catch a gig under the high vaulted ceilings. It's in a 15th-century palazzo on the city's massive sea walls.

3Entertainment

The daily paper Il Giornale di Sicilia (http://gds.it/articoli/cultura) has a listing of what's on. If you can read some Italian, www.balarm.it is another excellent resource.

oTeatro MassimoOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 091 605 35 80; www.teatromassimo.it; Piazza Giuseppe Verdi)

Ernesto Basile's six-tiered art nouveau masterpiece is Europe's third-largest opera house and one of Italy's most prestigious, right up there with La Scala in Milan, San Carlo in Naples and La Fenice in Venice. With lions flanking its grandiose columned entrance and an interior gleaming in red and gold, the theatre stages opera, ballet and music concerts from September to June.

Teatro dei Pupi di Mimmo CuticchioTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 34 00; www.figlidartecuticchio.com; Via Bara all'Olivella 95; adult/reduced €10/5)

This puppet theatre is a charming low-tech choice for children (and adults), staging traditional shows with fabulous handcrafted puppets.

Teatro Politeama GaribaldiPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 607 25 11; Piazza Ruggero Settimo)

This grandiose theatre is a popular venue for opera, ballet and classical music, staging afternoon and evening concerts. It's home to Palermo's symphony orchestra, the Orchestra Sinfonica Siciliana.

SICILIAN PUPPET THEATRE

Since the 18th century, the Opera dei Pupi (traditional Sicilian puppet theatre) has been enthralling adults and children alike. The shows are a mini theatrical performance, with some puppets standing 1.5m high – a completely different breed from the popular glove puppet. These characters are intricately carved from beech, olive or lemon wood and have realistic-looking features; flexible joints ensure they have no problem swinging their swords or beheading dragons.

Effectively the soap operas of their day, Sicilian puppet shows expounded the deepest sentiments of life – unrequited love, treachery, thirst for justice, and the anger and frustration of the oppressed. The swashbuckling tales centre on the legends of Charlemagne's heroic knights, Orlando and Rinaldo, with an extended cast including the fair Angelica, the treacherous Gano di Magonza and forbidding Saracen warriors. Puppeteers are judged on the dramatic effect they can create – lots of stamping feet and a gripping running commentary – and on their speed and skill in directing the battle scenes.

7Shopping

Via Bara all'Olivella is good for arts and crafts.

Il Laboratorio TeatraleARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 32 34 00; Via Bara all'Olivella 40; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat)

A true artists' workshop, this enchanting space is where the Cuticchio family constructs puppets for its famous theatre across the street. High-quality puppets dating from the late 19th century to the present are displayed here, and are available for purchase by serious enthusiasts.

Gusti di SiciliaFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gustidisicilia.com; Via Emerico Amari 79; h8.30am-11pm)

Stock up on beautifully packaged Sicilian edibles, from tins of tuna to jars of caponata (sweet-and-sour vegetable salad), capers and marmalade, and bottles of wine and olive oil.

8Information

Emergency

For an ambulance, call 118 or 091 666 55 28.

PolicePOLICE

(Questura; GOOGLE MAP ; %091 21 01 11; Piazza della Vittoria 8)

Main police station.

Medical Services

HospitalHOSPITAL

(Ospedale Civico; GOOGLE MAP ; %091 666 11 11; www.arnascivico.it; Piazza Nicola Leotta; h24hr)

Emergency facilities.

Tourist Information

Municipal Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %091 740 80 21; http://turismo.comune.palermo.it; Piazza Bellini; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat)

The most reliable of Palermo's city-run information booths. Others, located at Piazza Castelnuovo, Teatro Massimo, the Port of Palermo and Mondello, keep shorter hours.

Tourist Information – Falcone-Borsellino AirportTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %091 59 16 98; www.gesap.it/tourist-information-office; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat)

Downstairs in the Arrivals hall.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Falcone-Borsellino Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 541880, 091 702 02 73; www.gesap.it) is at Punta Raisi, 31km west of Palermo.

Alitalia and other major airlines such as Air France, Lufthansa and KLM fly from Palermo to destinations throughout Europe. Several cut-rate carriers also offer flights to/from Palermo, including Ryanair, Volotea, Vueling and easyJet. Falcone-Borsellino is the hub airport for regular domestic flights to the islands of Pantelleria and Lampedusa.

Boat

The ferry terminal is located just east of the corner of Via Francesco Crispi and Via Emerico Amari.

Grandi Navi VelociFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 209 45 91, 091 6072 6162; www.gnv.it; Calata Marinai d'Italia)

Runs ferries to Civitavecchia (from €59, 14 hours), Genoa (from €100, 19½ hours), Naples (from €48, 10 hours) and Tunis (from €49, 9½ hours).

Grimaldi LinesFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 611 36 91, 081 49 64 44; www.grimaldi-lines.com; Via del Mare)

Runs ferries twice weekly to Salerno (from €40, 9½ hours) and Tunis (from €56, 11 hours), and thrice weekly to Livorno (from €65, 18 hours).

Liberty LinesFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0923 87 38 13; www.libertylines.it; Molo Vittorio Veneto)

From late June to early September, Liberty operates one daily hydrofoil to Lipari (€57.30, four hours), Stromboli (€75.10, 5½ hours) and other points in the Aeolian Islands.

TirreniaFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %892123; www.tirrenia.it; Calata Marinai d'Italia)

Ferries to Cagliari (from €50, 12 hours, once or twice weekly) and Naples (from €45, 10¼ hours, daily).

Bus

Offices for all bus companies are located within a block or two of Palermo Centrale train station. The two main departure points are the Piazzetta Cairoli bus terminal (Piazzetta Cairoli), just south of the train station’s eastern entrance, and Via Paolo Balsamo, due east of the train station.

ASTBUS

(Azienda Siciliana Trasporti; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 680 00 11; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it; New Bus Bar, Via Paolo Balsamo 32)

Services to southeastern destinations including Ragusa (€13.50, four hours, four daily Monday to Saturday, two on Sunday).

Autoservizi TarantolaBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0924 310 20; www.tarantolabus.it; New Bus Bar, Via Paolo Balsamo 32)

Buses to Segesta (one way/return €8/12.70, 80 minutes) run once daily, with two buses returning daily to Palermo.

CuffaroBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 616 15 10; www.cuffaro.info; Via Paolo Balsamo 13)

Services to Agrigento (€9, two hours, three to seven daily).

SAIS AutolineeBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 616 60 28, 800 211020; www.saisautolinee.it; Piazzetta Cairoli bus station)

To/from Catania (€13.50, 2¾ hours, nine to 13 daily) and Messina (€14, 2¾ hours, four to six daily).

SAIS TrasportiBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 617 11 41; www.saistrasporti.it; Via Paolo Balsamo 20)

Thrice-weekly overnight service to Rome (€34, 12 hours).

SalemiBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 772 03 47; www.autoservizisalemi.it; Piazzetta Cairoli Bus Station)

Several buses daily to Marsala (€11, 2½ hours) and Trapani's Birgi Airport (€11, 1¾ hours).

Car & Motorcycle

Palermo is accessible on the A20-E90 toll road from Messina and the A19-E932 from Catania via Enna. Trapani and Marsala are also easily accessible from Palermo by motorway (A29), while Agrigento and Palermo are linked by the SS121 and SS189, good state roads through the island's interior.

Most major auto-hire companies are represented at the airport; you'll often save money by booking online before leaving home. Given the city's chaotic traffic and expensive parking, and the excellent public transport from Palermo's airport, it's generally best to postpone rental car pick-up until you're ready to leave the city.

Train

From Palermo Centrale station, just south of the centre at the foot of Via Roma, regular trains leave for the following destinations:

Agrigento €9, 2¼ hours, eight to 10 daily

Catania €13.50, 2¾ hours, three to six daily

Cefalù €5.60, 45 minutes to one hour, hourly

Messina from €12.80, 2¾ to 3½ hours, hourly

From Messina, InterCity trains continue to Reggio di Calabria, Naples and Rome.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Prestia e Comandè ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 58 63 51; www.prestiaecomande.it; one way/return €6.30/11) runs a half-hourly bus service from the airport to the centre of town, making stops outside Teatro Politeama Garibaldi (35 minutes) and Palermo Centrale train station (50 minutes). Buses are parked to the right as you exit the airport Arrivals hall. Buy tickets at the kiosk adjacent to the bus stop. Return journeys to the airport run with similar frequency, picking up at the same points.

Service on Trenitalia's Trinacria Express train, which normally runs half-hourly between Palermo Centrale and the airport (Punta Raisi station) was indefinitely suspended as of 2017 due to construction. Check www.trenitalia.com for current status.

A taxi from the airport to downtown Palermo costs €40 to €45.

Bus

Palermo's orange, white and blue city buses, operated by AMAT (%848 800817, 091 35 01 11; www.amat.pa.it), are frequent but often crowded and slow. The free map handed out at Palermo tourist offices details all the major bus lines; most stop at the train station. Tickets, valid for 90 minutes, cost €1.40 if pre-purchased from tabaccherie (tobacconists) or AMAT booths, or €1.80 if purchased on board the bus. A day pass costs €3.50.

Especially useful for visitors is AMAT's Navetta Centro Storico, a free orange shuttle bus that makes a circular loop connecting Palermo's main downtown landmarks, including the train station, the Palazzo dei Normanni, the cathedral and Teatro Massimo.

Car & Motorcycle

Driving is frenetic in the city and best avoided, if possible. Use one of the staffed car parks around town (from €12 to €20 per day) if your hotel lacks parking.

WORTH A TRIP

AROUND PALERMO

A few kilometres outside Palermo's city limits, the beach town of Mondello and the dazzling cathedral of Monreale are both worthwhile day trips. Just offshore, Ustica makes a great overnight or weekend getaway.

Monreale

In the hills 8km southwest of Palermo, Cattedrale di Monreale (%091 640 44 03; Piazza del Duomo; admission to cathedral free, north transept, Roano chapel & terrace €4, cloisters adult/reduced €6/3; hcathedral 8.30am-12.45pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat, 8-10am & 2.30-5pm Sun, cloisters 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) is considered the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily, incorporating Norman, Arab, Byzantine and classical elements. Inspired by a vision of the Virgin, it was built by William II in an effort to outdo his grandfather Roger II, who was responsible for the cathedral in Cefalù and the Cappella Palatina in Palermo. The interior, completed in 1184 and executed in shimmering mosaics, depicts 42 Old Testament stories. Outside the cathedral, the cloister is a tranquil courtyard with a tangible oriental feel. Surrounding the perimeter, elegant Romanesque arches are supported by an exquisite array of slender columns alternately decorated with mosaics. To reach Monreale, take AMAT bus 389 (€1.40, 35 minutes, every 1¼ hours) from Piazza Indipendenza in Palermo or AST's Monreale bus (one way/return €1.90/3, 40 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday) from in front of Palermo Centrale train station.

Mondello

Tucked between dramatic headlands 12km north of Palermo, Mondello is home to a long, sandy beach that became fashionable in the 19th century, when people came to the seaside in their carriages, prompting the construction of the huge art nouveau pier that still graces the waterfront. Most of the beaches near the pier are private (two sun loungers and an umbrella cost from €10 to €20); however, there's a wide swath of public beach opposite the centre of town with all the requisite pedalos and jet skis for hire. Given its easygoing seaside feel, Mondello is an excellent base for families. To get here, take bus 806 (€1.40, 30 minutes) from Piazza Sturzo in Palermo.

Ustica

A 90-minute boat trip from downtown, the 8.7-sq-km island of Ustica was declared Italy's first marine reserve in 1986. The surrounding waters are a playground of fish and coral, ideal for snorkelling, diving and underwater photography. To enjoy Ustica's wild coastline and dazzling grottoes without the crowds, try visiting in June or September. There are numerous dive centres, hotels and restaurants on the island, as well as some nice hiking. To get here from Palermo, take the once-daily car ferry (€18.85, three hours) operated by Siremar (%090 36 46 01; www.siremar.it) or the faster, more frequent hydrofoils (€27.60, 1½ hours) operated by Liberty Lines. For more details on Ustica, see Lonely Planet's Sicily guide.

Tyrrhenian Coast

The coast between Palermo and Milazzo is studded with popular tourist resorts attracting a steady stream of holidaymakers, particularly between June and September. The best of these is Cefalù, a resort second only to the Ionian coast's Taormina in popularity. Just inland lie the two massive natural parks of the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains.

Cefalù

Pop 14,300

This popular holiday resort wedged between a dramatic mountain peak and a sweeping stretch of sand has the lot: a great beach, a truly lovely historic centre with a grandiose cathedral, and winding medieval streets lined with restaurants and boutiques. Avoid the height of summer when prices soar, beaches are jam packed and the charm of the place is tainted by bad-tempered drivers trying to find a car park.

1Sights

oDuomo di CefalùCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %092 192 20 21; www.cattedraledicefalu.com; Piazza del Duomo; cloisters adult/reduced €3/2; hduomo 8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-1pm & 3.30-5pm Nov-Mar, cloisters 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-1pm Mon-Fri, by arrangement Sat Nov-Mar)

Cefalù's cathedral is one of the jewels in Sicily's Arab-Norman crown, equalled in magnificence only by the Cattedrale di Monreale (southwest of Palermo) and Palermo's Cappella Palatina. Filling the central apse, a towering figure of Christ All Powerful is the focal point of the elaborate Byzantine mosaics – Sicily's oldest and best preserved, pre-dating those of Monreale by 20 or 30 years.

oLa RoccaVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €4/2; h8am-7pm May-Sep, 9am-4pm Oct-Apr)

Looming over the town, this imposing rocky crag is the site where the Arabs built their citadel, occupying it until the Norman conquest in 1061 forced them down to the port below. To reach the summit, follow signs for Tempio di Diana from the corner of Corso Ruggero and Vicolo Saraceni. The 30- to 45-minute route climbs the Salita Saraceno, a winding staircase, through three tiers of city walls before emerging onto rock-strewn upland slopes with spectacular coastal views.

2Activities

Cefalù's crescent-shaped beach ( GOOGLE MAP ), just west of the medieval centre, is lovely, but in the summer get here early to find a patch for your umbrella and towel.

You can escape with a boat tour along the coast during the summer months, through agencies along Corso Ruggero, including Visit Sicily Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 92 50 36; www.visitsicilytours.it; Corso Ruggero 83; boat tours €30-80; hApr-Oct), right next door to the tourist office.

4Sleeping

Bookings are essential in summer.

Dolce VitaB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 92 31 51; www.dolcevitabb.it; Via Bordonaro 8; s €35-60, d €50-110)

This popular B&B has one of the loveliest terraces in town, complete with deckchairs overlooking the sea and a barbecue for those warm balmy evenings. Rooms are airy and light, with comfy beds, though the staff's lackadaisical attitude can detract from the charm.

Scirocco Bed & BreakfastB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0392 644 41 31; www.sciroccobeb.com; Piazza Garibaldi 8; s €50-70, d €70-110; aW)

Convenient location and spectacular views are the two big selling points at this B&B halfway between the train station and the cathedral. Four comfortable and bright upper-floor guest rooms are crowned by a rooftop terrace that's perfect for watching the sun set over the Tyrrhenian Sea, or for monitoring cafe life on Piazza Garibaldi directly below.

Hotel KaluraHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 42 13 54; www.hotelkalura.com; Via Vincenzo Cavallaro 13; s €100-134, d €157-200, 4-person apt €215-259; paisc)

East of town on a rocky outcrop, this German-run, family-oriented hotel has its own pebbly beach, a restaurant and a fabulous pool. Most rooms have sea views, and the hotel staff can arrange loads of activities, including mountain biking, hiking, canoeing, pedalos, diving and dance nights. It's a 20-minute walk into town.

5Eating & Drinking

Ti VittiSICILIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 92 15 71; www.ristorantetivitti.com; Via Umberto I 34; meals €35-45; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm Wed-Mon)

Named after a Sicilian card game, this restaurant serves up fresh-from-the-market fish dishes, locally sourced treats such as basilisco mushrooms from nearby Monte Madonie, and scrumptious cannoli (pastry shells filled with ricotta or custard) for dessert. For something more casual, head to its affiliated pizzeria, Bottega Ti Vitti ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 92 26 42; www.bottegativitti.com; Lungomare Giardina 7; pizza, salads & burgers €5-12; h10am-midnight, closed Tue Nov-Apr), whose waterfront setting is perfect for sunset aperitivi (pre-dinner drinks).

La GalleriaSICILIAN, CAFE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 42 02 11; www.lagalleriacefalu.it; Via Mandralisca 23; meals €30-40; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)

This is about as hip as Cefalù gets. Functioning as a restaurant, cafe and occasional gallery space, La Galleria has an informal vibe, a bright internal courtyard and an innovative menu that mixes standard primi and secondi with a range of all-in-one dishes (€14 to €16) designed to be meals in themselves.

Locanda del MarinaioSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 42 32 95; Via Porpora 5; meals €30-40; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon)

Fresh seafood rules the chalkboard menu at this eatery along the old town's main waterfront thoroughfare. Depending on the season, you'll find dishes such as red tuna carpaccio with toasted pine nuts, shrimp and zucchini on a bed of velvety ricotta, or grilled octopus served with thyme-scented potatoes, all accompanied by an excellent list of Sicilian wines.

8Information

HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 92 01 11; www.fondazionesanraffaelegiglio.it; Contrada Pietrapollastra; h24hr)

On the main road out of town in the direction of Palermo.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 42 10 50; strcefalu@regione.sicilia.it; Corso Ruggero 77; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat)

English-speaking staff, lots of leaflets and good maps.

8Getting There & Away

The best way to get to and from Cefalù is by rail. Hourly trains go to Palermo (€5.60, 50 minutes) and virtually every other town on the coast.

WORTH A TRIP

THE MADONIE MOUNTAINS: CEFALÙ'S BACKYARD GETAWAY

Due south of Cefalù, the 400-sq-km Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie incorporates some of Sicily's highest peaks, including the imposing Pizzo Carbonara (1979m). The park's wild, wooded slopes are home to wolves, wildcats, eagles and the near-extinct ancient Nebrodi fir trees that have survived since the last ice age. Ideal for hiking, cycling and horse trekking, the park is also home to several handsome mountain towns, including Castelbuono, Petralia Soprana and Petralia Sottana.

The region's distinctive rural cuisine includes roasted lamb and goat, cheeses, grilled mushrooms, and aromatic pasta with sugo (meat sauce). A great place to sample these specialties is Nangalarruni (%0921 67 12 28; www.hostarianangalarruni.it; Via delle Confraternite 7; fixed menus €28-35; h12.30-3pm & 7-10pm, closed Wed Nov-Mar) in Castelbuono.

For information, contact the park headquarters (%0921 68 40 11; www.parcodellemadonie.it; Corso Paolo Agliata 16, Petralia Sottana) in Petralia Sottana or the branch office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921 92 33 27; www.parcodellemadonie.it; Corso Ruggero 116; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) in Cefalù.

Bus service to the park's main towns is limited; to fully appreciate the Madonie, you're better off hiring a car for a couple of days.

Aeolian Islands

The Aeolian Islands are a little piece of paradise. Stunning cobalt sea, splendid beaches, some of Italy's best hiking and an awe-inspiring volcanic landscape are just part of the appeal. The islands also have a fascinating human and mythological history that goes back several millennia; the Aeolians figured prominently in Homer's Odyssey, and evidence of the distant past can be seen everywhere, most notably in Lipari's excellent archaeological museum.

The seven islands of Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi and Filicudi are part of a huge 200km volcanic ridge that runs between the smoking stack of Mt Etna and the threatening mass of Vesuvius above Naples. Collectively, the islands exhibit a unique range of volcanic characteristics, which earned them a place on Unesco's World Heritage list in 2000. The islands are mobbed with visitors in July and August, but out of season things remain delightfully tranquil.

8Getting There & Away

Liberty Lines (%0923 87 38 13; www.libertylines.it) runs hydrofoils year-round from Milazzo, the mainland city closest to the islands. Almost all boats stop first at Vulcano and Lipari, then continue to the ports of Santa Marina and Rinella on Salina island. Beyond Salina, boats either branch off east to Panarea and Stromboli, or west to Filicudi and Alicudi. Liberty Lines also operates limited year-round service to Lipari from Messina and summertime service from Reggio Calabria.

Frequency of service on all routes increases in the summer. Note that hydrofoils are sometimes cancelled due to heavy seas.

Both Siremar (%090 36 46 01; www.siremar.it) and NGI Traghetti (%090 928 40 91; www.ngi-spa.it) run year-round car ferries from Milazzo to the islands; these are slightly cheaper but slower and less regular than the hydrofoils. Siremar also runs twice-weekly overnight ferries from Naples to the Aeolians, docking first at Stromboli before continuing to the other islands.

Additional seasonal services include Liberty Lines hydrofoils from Palermo (once daily late June to early September) and SNAV (%081 428 55 55; www.snav.it) hydrofoils from Naples (daily July to early September, plus weekends in June).

Hydrofoils to the Aeolian Islands

From	To	Cost (€)	Duration	Frequency
Messina	Lipari	27.80	1½-2¾hr	4 daily in summer, 1 daily in winter
Milazzo	Alicudi	34.20	3hr	2-3 daily
Milazzo	Filicudi	28.75	2½hr	2-3 daily
Milazzo	Lipari	22.30	1hr	13-17 daily
Milazzo	Panarea	24.30	1½-2½hr	3-7 daily
Milazzo	Salina	22.05	1½hr	12 daily
Milazzo	Stromboli	27.45	1¼-3hr	3-7 daily
Milazzo	Vulcano	21.50	45min	12-16 daily

8Getting Around

Boat

Liberty Lines operates year-round, inter-island hydrofoil services, while Siremar offers inter-island ferries. Ticket offices with posted timetables can be found close to the docks on all islands.

Car & Scooter

You can take your car to Lipari, Vulcano or Salina by ferry, or garage it at Milazzo or Messina on the mainland from €12 per day. The islands are small, with narrow, winding roads. You'll often save money (and headaches) by hiring a scooter on-site, or better yet, exploring the islands on foot.

Lipari

Pop 11,200 / Elev 602m

Lipari is the Aeolians' thriving hub, both geographically and functionally, with regular ferry and hydrofoil connections to all other islands. Lipari town, the largest urban centre in the archipelago, is home to the islands' only tourist office and most dependable banking services, and has enough restaurants, bars and year-round residents to offer a bit of cosmopolitan buzz. Meanwhile, the island's rugged shoreline offers excellent opportunities for hiking, boating and swimming.

As evidenced by its fine archaeological museum and the multilayered ruins strewn about town, Lipari has been inhabited for some 6000 years. The island was settled in the 4th millennium BC by Sicily's first known inhabitants, the Stentinellians, who developed a flourishing economy based on obsidian, a glassy volcanic rock. Commerce subsequently attracted the Greeks, who used the islands as ports on the east–west trade route, and pirates such as Barbarossa (or Redbeard), who sacked the city in 1544.

Lipari's two harbours, Marina Lunga (where ferries and hydrofoils dock) and Marina Corta (700m south, used by smaller boats) are linked by a bustling main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which is flanked by shops, restaurants and bars. Overlooking the colourful snake of day-trippers is Lipari's clifftop citadel, surrounded by 16th-century walls.

Lipari Town

1Top Sights

1Museo Archeologico Regionale EolianoD4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Da Massimo/Dolce VitaC4

3Diving Center La GorgoniaC6

4Sleeping

4Diana BrownB5

5Enzo Il NegroC4

5Eating

6E PuleraA4

7Gilberto e VeraC4

8KasbahC4

7Shopping

9La FormagellaB1

1Sights & Activities

oMuseo Archeologico Regionale EolianoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 988 01 74; www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/museolipari; Via Castello 2; adult/reduced €6/3; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)

A must-see for Mediterranean history buffs, Lipari's archaeological museum boasts one of Europe's finest collections of ancient finds. Especially worthwhile are the Sezione Preistorica, devoted to locally discovered artefacts from the neolithic and Bronze Age periods to the Graeco-Roman era, and the Sezione Classica, whose highlights include ancient shipwreck cargoes and the world's largest collection of miniature Greek theatrical masks.

oQuattrocchiVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

Lipari's best coastal views are from a celebrated viewpoint known as Quattrocchi (Four Eyes), 3km west of town. Follow the road for Pianoconte and look to your left. Stretching off to the south, great grey cliffs plunge into the sea, while in the distance plumes of sinister smoke rise from neighbouring Vulcano.

oSpiaggia Valle i MuriaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Lapped by clean waters and surrounded by sheer cliffs, this dark, pebbly beach on Lipari's southwestern shore is a dramatically beautiful swimming and sunbathing spot. From the signposted turn-off, 3km west of Lipari town towards Pianoconte, it's a steep 15-minute downhill walk; come prepared with water and sunscreen. In good weather, Lipari resident Barni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 1839555, 339 8221583) sells refreshments from his rustic cave-like beach bar, and provides scenic boat transfers to and from Lipari's Marina Corta (€5/10 one way/return).

Diving Center La GorgoniaDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 26 16; www.lagorgoniadiving.it; Salita San Giuseppe; per dive with own/rented equipment €35/55, courses €70-750)

This outfit offers courses, boat transport, equipment hire and general information about scuba diving and snorkelling around Lipari. See the website for a complete price list.

WORTH A TRIP

COASTAL HIKES AROUND LIPARI

Lipari's rugged northwestern coastline offers excellent walking opportunities. Most accessible is the pleasant hour-long stroll from Quattropani to Acquacalda along Lipari's north shore, which affords spectacular views of Salina and a distant Stromboli. Take the bus to Quattropani (€2.40, 25 minutes), then simply proceed downhill on the main road 5km to Acquacalda, where you can catch the bus (€1.55) back to Lipari.

More strenuous, but equally rewarding in terms of scenery, is the three- to four-hour hike descending steeply from Pianoconte (€1.90, 15 minutes by bus) down past the old Roman baths of Terme di San Calogero to the western shoreline, then skirting the clifftops along a flat stretch before climbing steeply back to Quattropani.

TTours

Numerous agencies in town, including the dependable Da Massimo/Dolce Vita ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 30 86; www.damassimo.it; Via Maurolico 2), offer boat tours to the surrounding islands. Prices are around €25 for a circuit around Vulcano; €30 for a tour of Salina; €40 to visit Filicudi and Alicudi; €40 for a day trip to Panarea and Stromboli; and €75 to €80 for a late-afternoon trip to Stromboli, including a guided hike up the mountain at sunset and a late-night return to Lipari.

4Sleeping

Lipari is the Aeolians' best-equipped base for island-hopping, with plenty of places to stay, eat and drink. Note that prices soar in summer; avoid August if possible.

oDiana BrownB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %338 6407572, 090 981 25 84; www.dianabrown.it; Vico Himera 3; s €35-65, d €50-80, tr €65-105; aW)

Tucked down a narrow alley, South African Diana's delightful rooms sport tile floors, abundant hot water and welcome extras such as kettles, fridges, clothes-drying racks and satellite TV. Units downstairs are darker but have built-in kitchenettes. There's a sunny breakfast terrace and a solarium with deckchairs, plus a book exchange and laundry service. Optional breakfast costs €5 extra per person.

Enzo Il NegroGUESTHOUSE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 31 63; www.enzoilnegro.com; Via Garibaldi 29; s €40-50, d €60-90; aW)

Family-run for decades, this down-to-earth guesthouse near picturesque Marina Corta offers spacious, tiled, pine-furnished rooms with fridges. Two panoramic terraces overlook the rooftops, the harbour and the castle walls.

oB&B Al Salvatore di LipariB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %335 8343222; www.facebook.com/bbalsalvatore; Via San Salvatore, Contrada al Salvatore; d €80-120; hApr-Oct; W)

It's a trek to reach this hillside oasis 2km south of town, but once here, you'll never want to leave. Artist Paola and physicist Marcello have transformed their Aeolian villa into a green B&B that works at all levels, from dependable wi-fi to a panoramic terrace where guests enjoy one of Sicily's best breakfasts, featuring home-marinated tuna, omelettes and house-made marmalade.

Pre-arrange pick-up at the hydrofoil dock or take the 'Linea Blanca' bus from Marina Lunga to Capistello (€1.30, 10 minutes) and walk 200m steeply uphill.

5Eating & Drinking

Fish abound in the waters of the archipelago and include tuna, mullet, cuttlefish and sole, all of which end up on local menus. Try pasta all'eoliana, a simple blend of the island's excellent capers with olives, olive oil, anchovies, tomatoes and basil.

Bars are concentrated along Corso Vittorio Emanuele and down by Marina Corta.

Gilberto e VeraSANDWICHES€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 27 56; www.gilbertoevera.it; Via Garibaldi 22; half/full sandwiches €3.50/5; h8am-2.30pm & 4pm-midnight mid-Mar–mid-Nov)

This straightforward shop sells two dozen varieties of sandwiches, served with a smile. Sicilian ingredients such as capers, olives, eggplant and tuna all make frequent appearances. Long hours make this the perfect spot to purchase early-morning hiking or beach-hopping provisions, or to sip a mid-afternoon or late-evening glass of wine on the streetside terrace.

KasbahMODERN SICILIAN, PIZZA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 10 75; www.kasbahlipari.it; Vico Selinunte 45; pizzas €6-8, meals €33-35; h7-11.30pm Apr-Oct)

Tucked down a narrow alleyway, with a window where you can watch the chefs at work, this place serves everything from fancy pasta, fish and meat dishes to simple wood-fired pizzas. The stylish dining room with its grey linen tablecloths is complemented by a more casual outdoor terrace.

E PuleraMODERN SICILIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 11 58; www.pulera.it; Via Isabella Conti; meals €30-45; h7pm-midnight late Apr–mid-Oct)

With its serene garden setting, low lighting, artsy tile-topped tables and exquisite food – from tuna carpaccio with blood oranges and capers to cassata (sponge cake, ricotta, marzipan, chocolate and candied fruit) served with sweet Malvasia wine for dessert – E Pulera makes an upmarket but relaxed choice for a romantic dinner.

7Shopping

La FormagellaFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 988 07 59; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 250; h8am-8.30pm Mar-Oct)

You simply can’t leave the Aeolian Islands without a small pot of capers and a bottle of sweet Malvasia wine. You can get both, along with meats, cheeses and other delicious goodies, at this gourmet grocery-deli just around the corner from the hydrofoil dock.

8Information

Corso Vittorio Emanuele is lined with ATMs. The other islands have relatively few facilities, so it's best to sort out your finances here before moving on.

Ospedale CivileHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %090 988 51 11; Via Sant'Anna)

First-aid and emergency services.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %090 988 00 95; infopointeolie@regione.sicilia.it; Via Maurolico 17; h9am-1pm & 4.30-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 9am-1pm Tue & Thu)

Lipari's sporadically staffed tourist office provides information covering all of the Aeolian Islands.

8Getting There & Around

Boat

Lipari is the Aeolians' transport hub. The main port is Marina Lunga, where you’ll find the hydrofoil jetty to the north and the ferry docks to the south. Timetable information is displayed at the adjacent ticket offices.

Year-round ferries and hydrofoils serve Milazzo and all the other Aeolian Islands; less frequent services include year-round hydrofoils to Messina and ferries to Naples, and summer-only hydrofoil services to Palermo. Websites for Liberty Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 24 48; www.libertylines.it), Siremar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 10 17; www.siremar.it) and NGI Traghetti have complete schedules and price details.

Bus

Autobus Guglielmo Urso ( GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 10 26; www.ursobus.com/orariursobus.pdf) runs buses around the island roughly hourly from its bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) adjacent to Marina Lunga. The Linea Urbana follows the eastern shoreline, making stops at Canneto (€1.30) and Acquacalda (€1.55), while the Linea Extraurbana climbs to the splendid Quattrocchi viewpoint (€1.90) and the western highland settlements of Pianoconte (€1.90) and Quattropani (€2.40). Discounts are available for round-trip journeys or multiple rides (six-/10-/20-ride tickets from €7/10.50/20.50).

Car & Motorcycle

Several places around town rent bicycles (€10 to €15 per day), scooters (€15 to €50) and cars (€30 to €80), including Da Marcello ( GOOGLE MAP ; %090 981 12 34; www.noleggiodamarcello.com; Via Sottomonastero) down by the ferry dock.