Tibetan Treks

Why Go?

Tibet, the highest land on earth, is a trekker’s dream. Its towering mountains, high valleys and sacred landscapes offer unbounded opportunities for walking. On foot the joys of the Tibetan landscape are heightened and immediate, and all other modes of transport pale in comparison. The wonders of Tibet’s natural environment are enhanced by the people met along the trail, heirs to an ancient and fascinating way of life.

Treks range from the sacred walk around My Kailash in the festive company of Tibetan pilgrims, to full-on wilderness treks where you’ll meet only the occasional herders’ camp. Most treks are high but short and are conveniently combined with visits to some of Tibet’s great monasteries.

Tibet’s landscapes are beautiful but harsh and treks here perhaps best suit experienced trekkers or travellers who know how they react to high altitude.

When to Trek

A The best time to trek in Tibet is during the warmer months from May to October.

A May and June are excellent months without much rain or snowfall but some high alpine passes may still be closed.

A July and August are the warmest months of the year, but they tend to be rainy and this can make walking messy and trails harder to find.

A September and October are excellent months for trekking, but in high areas the nights are cold and early snow is always a possibility.

PLANNING YOUR TREK

For all its attractions, Tibet is a formidable environment where even day walks involve survival skills and generous portions of determination. The remoteness of Tibet combined with its extreme climate poses special challenges for walkers – and unique rewards. As it’s situated on the highest plateau on earth and crisscrossed by the world’s loftiest mountains, nothing comes easily and careful preparation is all important. Even on the most popular treks high passes up to 5600m are crossed.

Trekkers must be prepared for extremes in climate, even in the middle of summer. A hot, sunny day can turn cold and miserable in a matter of minutes, especially at higher elevations. Night temperatures above 4700m routinely fall below freezing, even in July and August. At other times of year it gets even colder. In midwinter in northwestern Tibet, minimum temperatures reach –40°C. Yet Tibet is a study in contrasts, and in summer a scorching sun and hot, blustery winds can make even the hardiest walker scurry for any available shade. Between the two extremes, the Tibetan climate – cool and dry – is ideal for walking, as long as you are prepared for the worst.

It’s a good idea to budget an extra day for your trek in case you get on the road more slowly than intended. Your guide might also need additional time hiring local help and beasts of burden.

Before embarking on a trek, make sure you’re up to the challenge of high-altitude walking. Test your capabilities on day walks in the hills around Lhasa such as the Dode Valley or to Bumpa Ri, the prayer-flag-draped peak on the far side of the Kyi-chu from Lhasa.

What to Bring

You need to be prepared for extremes in weather and terrain in Tibet. The time of year and the places where you choose to walk will dictate the equipment you need.

Clothing & Footwear

As a minimum, you will need basic warm clothing, including a hat, gloves, down jacket, thermal underwear, warm absorbent socks, fast-drying base layer and a waterproof and windproof shell, as well as comfortable and well-made pants and shirts. Women may want to add a long skirt to their clothing list. Bring loose-fitting clothes that cover your arms, legs and neck, and a wide-brimmed hat like the ones Tibetans wear.

If you attempt winter trekking, you will certainly need more substantial mountaineering clothing. Many people opt for synthetic clothing, but also consider traditional wool or sheep fleece, which have proven themselves in the mountains of Tibet for centuries. One of your most important assets will be a pair of strong, well-fitting hiking boots. And remember to break them in before starting your trekking!

Equipment

Four essential items are a tent, a sleeping bag, a mattress and a portable stove. There are few settlements in the remote areas of Tibet and provisions are hard to come by, so you and your guide need to be self-sufficient. Only the Kailash kora trek offers accommodation en route – for all others you’ll need full camping equipment. Invest in a four-season tent that can handle storms, snow and heavy winds. A warm down sleeping bag rated to –20°C is a must. Manufacturers tend to overrate the effectiveness of their bags, so always buy a warmer one than you think you’ll need.

You will also need a strong, comfortable backpack or duffel large enough to carry all of your gear and supplies. When trekking with animal transport a daypack is essential for your immediate daily needs. A bag cover or sack to protect your bag when on the back of a yak or horse is a wise investment.

Your daypack should always contain a water bottle and water purification, snacks, sunglasses, rain gear, a fleece, a head torch (flashlight), map, sun cream, toilet paper, a whistle, Diamox and matches.

Other basic items include a compass, a pocketknife, a first-aid kit, waterproof matches, a sewing kit and walking stick or ski pole. This last item not only acts as a walking aid, but also as a defence against dog attacks. Tibetan dogs can be particularly large and brutal, and they roam at will in nearly every village and herders’ camp. Bring your walking stick or pole from home, or purchase trekking poles in Lhasa.

Petrol for camping stoves is very hard to buy these days and you may have to ask your tour driver to siphon fuel for you. Kerosene (煤油; méiyóu in Chinese; sanum in Tibetan) is equally hard to buy. Butane gas canisters are hard to find in Tibet these days, but your agency should be able to rustle you up a can or two.

Also useful are battery packs to recharge your smartphone, or a solar charger to boost electricity supplies during the day.

Nowadays there are scores of shops in Lhasa selling decent trekking clothes, so you could pick up simple clothes there, with the exception of good quality trek boots. One of the best places to look for outdoor gear is the upper floor of Lhasa’s central Bǎiyì Supermarket.

TREKKING DISCLAIMER

Although the authors and publisher have done their utmost to ensure the accuracy of all information in this guide, they cannot accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by people using this guide. They cannot guarantee that the tracks and routes described here have not become impassable for any reason in the interval between research and publication.

The fact that a trip or area is described in this guidebook does not mean that it is safe for you and your trekking party. You are ultimately responsible for judging your own capabilities in the conditions you encounter.

Maps

There are some commercially available maps covering Tibet, but very few of these maps are detailed enough to be more than a general guide for trekkers.

The US-based Defense Mapping Agency Aerospace Center produces a series of charts covering Tibet at scales of 1:1,000,000, 1:500,000 and 1:250,000. The most useful of the American 1:500,000 references for trekking in Tibet:

AH-10A (Lhasa region, Ganden to Samye, Tsurphu to Yangpachen)

AH-9A (Kailash and Manasarovar)

AH-9B (Shigatse region, Shalu to Nartang, Everest region).

Old Soviet 1:200,000 topographic maps can be consulted in many large university library map rooms. Buying them has become easier with commercial outlets in the West stocking them. Punch ‘Tibet maps’ into your computer search engine to see who carries them in your area.

Google Earth is a fantastic resource and you might find it useful to trace your proposed route on the maps and then save them as screen shot images to view on your mobile phone or tablet.

The Swiss company Gecko Maps (www.geckomaps.com) produces a 1:50,000-scale Mt Kailash trekking map.

Trekking Agencies

The kind of trek you take will depend on your experience and the amount of time you have. Whatever your choice you must go through an officially recognised tour agency and take a guide along with you. In this age of intense government scrutiny the good old days of exploring Tibet independently are over.

One of the main advantages of signing up with an agency is that it takes care of all the red tape and dealings with officials. Most agencies offer a full-package trek, including transport to and from the trailhead, guide, cook, yaks, horses or burros to carry the equipment, mess tent and cooking gear. The package may include sleeping bags and tents if these are required but we recommend bringing all your own personal equipment, as local equipment is not up to international standards. You can negotiate cheaper, less inclusive packages by cooking for yourself along the trail and paying for pack animals and guides directly on the spot. Your driver and vehicle will most likely have to wait for you while you are trekking, meaning you’ll have to pay daily rates for both while walking. Trekking in Tibet is hard to do on the cheap.

There is a plethora of private agencies that can arrange treks. Let the buyer beware though, for the standard of service fluctuates wildly and may bear little relation to what you pay.

Make sure the agency spells out exactly what is included in the price it is quoting you, and insist on a written contract detailing all services that are to be provided as well as a money-back guarantee should it fail to deliver what has been agreed. It is prudent to pay one-half of the total cost of a trip up front and the balance after the trek is completed. This is now more or less standard operating procedure in Tibet.

All the Lhasa-based agencies listed here have run many successful treks. Trekkers are particularly at the mercy of those driving them to and from the trailheads. To avoid problems, it is prudent to test the driver and guide on a day trip before heading off into the wilds with them. Always have the phone number of your agency so that you can contact them should something go awry. Mobile (cell) phone coverage has now been extended to all the trailheads and to many places along the trekking routes.

Prices vary according to group size, ranging from US$170 to US$300 per person per day. For treks in remote and border areas, your agency will need up to three weeks to sort out the permits. If you feel you have been cheated by your agent, you may find help with the marketing and promotion department of the Tibet Tourism Bureau (map; %0891-683 4315; 3 Linkuo Xilu, Lhasa) in Lhasa. This government organisation is in charge of training tour guides and monitoring the performance of all trekking and tour companies.

The agencies listed here tend to be tucked away in hard-to-find suburban spots. If you are in Lhasa, call first and ask the staff to meet you at your hotel.

HEALTHY TREKKING

To maintain your health in such a difficult high-elevation environment you will need to take some special precautions. The golden rules are: bring a well-stocked first-aid kit; never walk alone; and ensure you have adequate health and evacuation insurance. Trekkers are particularly vulnerable to sunburn, hypothermia and acute mountain sickness (AMS), so make sure you’re prepared for these.

Lhasa Agencies

Higher Ground Treks & Tours (%0891-686 5352; higherground_treks_tours@yahoo.com; 75 Beijing Zhonglu)

Tibet International Sports Travel (Xīzàng Shèngdì Guójì Lǚxíngshè; map; %0891-633 9151; tist@public.ls.xz.cn; 6 Lingkhor Shar Lam)

Tibet Wind Horse Adventure (map; %0891-683 3009; www.windhorsetibet.com; B32 Shenzheng Huayuan, Sera Beilu)

Tibet Songtsan International Travel Company (map; %136 3890 1182, 0891-636 4414; www.songtsantravel.com; 2nd fl, Barkhor Sq)

Tibet Yongdru International Travel Service (%0891-683 5813; info@tibet-yongdrutravel.com; No 5 Bldg, 1st fl, New Shöl Village)

SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR WALKING

Before embarking on a walking trip, consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience:

A Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable walking for a sustained period.

A Only undertake treks that are well within your physical capacity and level of experience.

A Obtain reliable information about the terrain and current conditions along your intended route from local inhabitants.

A Be aware of local laws, regulations and customs about wildlife and the environment.

Kathmandu Agencies

Several Kathmandu-based agencies operate treks in Tibet, often bringing their own cooks and sherpas from Nepal. This generally results in higher prices but better food and service than if you use only Tibetan staff. The following are some of the most qualified agencies.

Dharma Adventures

Mountain Monarch (%01-4373881; www.mountainmonarch.com; Hattigauda)

Sunny Treks and Expeditions

Tibet International Travels & Tours

Miteri Nepal International Trekking (%01-4437163; www.miterinepaltrekking.com; Bhagwatisthan 29, Thamel)

Western Agencies

A few Western companies organise fixed-departure treks in Tibet. These tours can be joined in your home country or abroad, usually in Chéngdū or Kathmandu. Prices are higher than treks arranged directly in Tibet or Kathmandu, but they are more professionally run and save you a lot of effort and time.

A trek organised at home includes a Western leader, a local guide, porters, a cook and often even a kit bag and gear rental. All your practical needs will be taken care of, freeing you up to enjoy the walking.

Companies organising treks to Tibet include World Expeditions (www.worldexpeditions.com), the Mountain Company (www.themountaincompany.co.uk) and Mountain Kingdoms (www.mountainkingdoms.com).

RESPONSIBLE TREKKING

With average temperatures increasing more rapidly than almost any other place on earth, the environment of Tibet is under unprecedented pressure. It is imperative that trekkers make their way lightly and leave nothing behind but their proverbial footprints. Tibet’s beautiful but vulnerable landscape deserves the utmost respect. A fire, for instance, can scar the landscape for centuries. Stay off fragile slopes and do not tread on delicate plants or sensitive breeding grounds. Follow the Tibetan ethos, killing not even the smallest of insects. This approach guarantees that later visitors get to enjoy the same pristine environment as you.

Rubbish

A Carry out every piece of your rubbish including toilet paper, sanitary napkins, tampons and condoms.

A Have a dedicated rubbish bag and minimise packaging materials.

A Do not burn plastic and other garbage as this is believed to irritate the Tibetan divinities.

Human Waste Disposal

A Where there is a toilet, use it.

A Where there is none, human waste should be left on the surface of the ground away from trails, water and habitations to decompose. If you are in a large trekking group, dig a privy pit. Be sure to build it far from any water source or marshy ground and carefully rehabilitate the area when you leave camp. Ensure it’s not near shrines or any other sacred structures.

Washing

A Don’t use detergents or toothpaste in or near watercourses, even if they are biodegradable.

A For all washing use biodegradable soap and a lightweight, portable basin at least 50m away from the water source.

A Try using a scourer, sand or snow instead of detergent. Widely disperse the waste water to allow the soil to filter it.

Erosion

A Hillsides and mountain slopes are prone to erosion, so stick to existing tracks and avoid short cuts.

A Do not trench around tents.

A Never remove the plant life that keeps topsoil in place.

Fires & Low-Impact Cooking

A Building fires is not an option. Wood is nonexistent in much of Tibet and where there are trees and bushes they are desperately needed by locals.

A Cook on a lightweight kerosene, petrol, alcohol or multifuel stove and avoid those powered by disposable butane gas canisters.

A Make sure your guide and porters have stoves.

A Ensure that all members are outfitted with adequate clothing so that fires are not needed for warmth.

Good Trekking Partnerships

A Monitor all your staff members closely and make it clear that any gratuities will hinge upon good stewardship of the environment.

A Stress to your agency that you will not tolerate rubbish being thrown along the trail or at the trailheads.

A Explain to your drivers that rubbish should not be thrown out the windows (a common practice in Tibet).

Wildlife Conservation

A Do not engage in or encourage illegal hunting.

A Don’t buy items or medicines made from endangered wild species.

A Discourage the presence of wildlife by cleaning up your food scraps.

Camping

A Seek permission to camp from local villagers or shepherds. They will usually be happy to grant permission.

Permits

Individuals are not permitted to trek independently in Tibet and must join an organised group. Trekking, as with all travel in Tibet, requires travel permits, though there are no specific trekking permits in Tibet.

ON THE TREK

Trekking trails in Tibet are not marked and in many places there are no people to ask for directions. Paths regularly merge, divide and peter out, making route-finding inherently difficult. Your guide from Lhasa probably doesn’t know the trails any better than you do, so it’s always worth hiring a local guide or horseman from the area.

Guides & Pack Animals

The rugged terrain, long distances and high elevations of Tibet make most people think twice about carrying their gear. In villages and nomad camps along the main trekking routes it’s often possible to hire yaks or horses to do the heavy work for you.

Your guide will negotiate what you need in the way of pack animals. A mule skinner, horseman or yak driver will also serve as a local guide; they are an important asset on the unmarked trails of Tibet. Local guides can also share their knowledge of the natural history and culture of the place, greatly adding to your experience.

The rates for pack animals vary widely according to the time of the year and location. Horses and yaks are pricey at Mt Kailash, with a fixed price costing upwards of ¥250 per animal. In most other places burros and horses can be had for ¥120 to ¥200 per head. Local guides and livestock handlers usually command ¥150 to ¥200 per day. Remember that your hired help are also paid for the time it takes them to return home.

Food

You should be self-sufficient with food since there isn’t much to eat along the trail. Bring anything you can’t live without from home, such as high-energy bars and your favourite chocolate. In Lhasa there are thousands of stalls and shops selling a huge variety of foodstuffs, making well-balanced, tasty meals possible on the trail. Even in Shigatse and the smaller cities there are many foods suitable for trekking.

Vacuum-packed yak meat and poultry, as well as packaged dried meat, fish and tofu, are readily found in Lhasa. Varieties of packaged and bulk dried fruits are sold around the city. You can even find almonds and pistachios imported from the USA.

Dairy- and soybean-milk powders can be used with several kinds of prepackaged cereals. Oatmeal and instant barley porridge are widely available in the supermarkets. Our personal favourite Tibetan breakfast is tsampa (roasted and ground barley powder) mixed with milk powder, sugar and hot water. For an added touch, Indian pickles and curry powders are available in shops near the Barkhor. Lightweight vegetables such as seaweed, bok choy and dried mushrooms can do wonders for macaroni and instant noodles. Many of China’s instant noodles are very spicy so stick with chicken or seafood flavours if you don’t want to sweat.

Cooking mediums include butter, margarine, vegetable oil and sesame oil. All kinds of biscuits, sweets and muffins are sold in Lhasa and the larger regional towns.

Drink

As wonderfully cold and clear as much of the water in Tibet is, do not assume that it’s safe to drink. Livestock contaminate many of the water sources and Tibetans do not always live up to their cultural ideals.

Follow Tibetan tradition and eliminate the monotony of drinking plain water by downing as much tea as you can. You can buy Chinese green tea and Indian lemon tea in every city and town in Tibet. Instant coffee is widely available, but Coffee Mate is harder to find.

If you’re offered Tibetan yak-butter tea, have it served in your own cup as per tradition – this eliminates the risk associated with drinking from used cups. More like a soup than a tea, it helps fortify you against the cold and replenishes the body’s salts.

SOCIAL TREKKING

In most out-of-the-way places trekkers can quickly become the centre of attention, and sometimes just a smile may lead to dinner invitations and offers of a place to stay. If you really detest being the star of the show, don’t camp in villages. If you do, don’t expect Western notions of privacy to prevail. The spectacle of a few foreigners putting up tents is probably the closest some villagers will ever come to TV.

If you have any religious sentiments, your trek probably qualifies as a pilgrimage, in which case you will generally receive better treatment than if you are ‘just going someplace’. Another helpful hint: if all else fails try a song and dance. Even the most amateur of efforts is met with great approval.

TREKKING ROUTES

A number of popular treks offer fantastic walking and superb scenery; with the exception of Lake Manasarovar and Mt Kailash, they’re also close to Lhasa or the main highways. Walking times given are just that: they don’t include breaks, nature stops or any other off-your-feet activities. On average, plan to walk five to seven hours per day, interspersed with frequent short rests. You will also need time for setting up camp, cooking and eating, and for the plain enjoyment of being there.

Ganden to Samye

This trek has much to offer: lakes, beautiful alpine landscapes, herders’ camps and sacred sites, as well as two of Tibet’s greatest centres of religious culture. With so much to offer, its popularity is understandable, but you should not underestimate this walk.

The best time for the trek is from mid-May to mid-October. Summer can be wet, but the mountains are at their greenest and wild flowers spangle the alpine meadows. Barring heavy snow, it’s also possible for those with a lot of trekking experience and the right gear to do this trek in the colder months. If you’re coming straight from Lhasa, you should spend at least one night at Ganden Monastery (4300m) to acclimatise, or if that’s not allowed, at Hepu village (4210m).

If you’re fit, acclimatised and have a pack animal to carry your bags, it’s not difficult to do the trek in 3½ days, overnighting in Hepu/Yama Do, Tsotup-chu and the herders’ camps. If you get an early start from Lhasa on the first day, it’s possible to visit Ganden in the morning, start hiking before lunch and continue on to Yama Do. Otherwise you might consider overnighting in Hepu the first night to arrange pack animals and then have a short second day to Yama Do before continuing over the Shuga-La on day three.

You’ll experience at least three seasons on this trek, probably in the same day! From the wintry feel of the Chitu-la you rapidly descend to the springtime rhododendron blooms of the middle valley until the summer heat hits you on the final approach to Samye. Pack accordingly.

Guides and pack animals can be procured in the villages of Trubshi and Hepu, situated in the Tashi-chu Valley near Ganden. Figure on paying around ¥120 per day for a horse or yak and the same again for a horse/yak handler. Yaks generally won’t travel alone, so you’ll need a minimum of two. You’ll have to pay two days’ wages for the animals and handler to return. Single trekkers or pairs could get away with a single horse.

A sealed road now connects Trubshi and Hepu to the Kyi-chu Valley.

GANDEN TO SAMYE AT A GLANCE

Duration Four days

Distance 80km

Difficulty Medium to difficult

Start Ganden Monastery

Finish Yamalung Hermitage

Highest Point Shuga-la (5250m)

Nearest Large Towns Lhasa and Tsetang

Accommodation Camping

Best Time to Trek Mid-May to mid-October

Summary This demanding trek crosses two passes over 5000m, connects two of Tibet’s most important monasteries and begins less than 50km from Lhasa. It has emerged as the most popular trek in the Ü region.

Stage 1: Ganden to Yama Do

5-6 HOURS / 17KM / 630M ASCENT/420M DESCENT

The trek begins in the car park at the base of Ganden Monastery. Your driver will most likely transport your packs to Hepu to meet your pack animals there, so you can travel light for the first section of this hike. Some trekkers visit Ganden in the morning, hike to Hepu after lunch and spend the first night there, meeting their pack animals the next morning.

Leave the car park and look for the well-trodden trail heading south along the side of Angkor Ri, the highest point on the Ganden kora. After 30 minutes the Ganden kora branches off to the right (4360m; N 29°44.891ʹ, E 091°28.788ʹ); keep ascending to the south for another 30 minutes. You quickly lose sight of Ganden but gain views of Samadro village below you to the left, before reaching a saddle, marked by a large lapse (cairn; 4530m; N 29°44.130ʹ, E 091°29.729ʹ). (Don’t confuse this with a smaller, earlier cairn.) Expect to take around 90 minutes to get here from Ganden.

From the saddle, look south to see the approach to the Shuga-la in the distance. Traversing the western side of the ridge from the saddle, dipping briefly into a side gully, you get views of Trubshi village below and the Kyi-chu Valley to the west. After 45 minutes the trail descends towards Hepu village. About 20 minutes further is a spring and a herders’ camp marked by a section of stone wall. From here it’s a further 30 minutes to the village, a total of three to four hours’ walking from Ganden.

There are around 30 houses in the village of Hepu (4240m; N 29°42.387ʹ, E 091°31.442ʹ), also called Lewu or Lepu, and it’s often possible for trekkers to find accommodation among the friendly locals. There’s good camping to the south and west of the village. Look for a red-and-yellow masonry structure and white incense hearths at the southeastern edge of the village. This is the shrine of Hepu’s yul lha (local protecting deity), the Divine White Yak.

Walk west downhill from the village for 10 minutes towards a bridge crossing the Tashi-chu, near the confluence with another stream, at a tiny settlement called Dekyi Pangka. This is likely where your agency has dropped your main bags to be loaded onto pack animals for your arrival. There are several campsites near the confluence. From here, the Shuga-la is at least four hours away.

Follow the dirt road south along the west bank of the side stream for five minutes until it peters out in yak pastures. You are now following the watercourse originating from the Shuga-la.

Twenty minutes from the confluence you reach Ani Pagong, a narrow, craggy bottleneck in the valley. A small nunnery used to be above the trail. Across the valley is the seasonal herders’ camp of Choden. From Ani Pagong, the trail steadily climbs for another hour through marshy meadows and past stone shelters to cross to the east side of the river just before Yama Do (4490m; N 29°40.511ʹ, E 091°30.918ʹ).

Yama Do offers extensive campsites suitable for larger groups. It’s best to spend the night here as it’s still a long climb to the pass and there are few other camping places along the way. If you have time on your hands, you could visit the herders’ camps on the western side of the valley, though be careful of dogs on the approach.

Stage 2: Yama Do to Tsotup-chu Valley

5-7 HOURS / 10KM / 1000M ASCENT/450M DESCENT

Above Yama Do the valley’s watercourse splits into three branches. Follow the central (southern) branch, not the southeastern or southwestern branches. The route leaves the flank of the valley and follows the valley bottom. The trail becomes indistinct, but it’s a straight shot up to the pass. About 30 minutes from Yama Do are two single-tent campsites, the last good ones until the other side of the pass, at least five hours away. One hour past Yama Do, leave the valley floor and ascend a shelf on the eastern side of the valley to avoid a steep gully that forms around the stream. If in doubt follow the cairns. In another 45 minutes you enter a wet alpine basin studded with tussock grass.

The Shuga-la is at least 1¼ hours from the basin and three hours from Yama Do. Remain on the eastern side of the valley as it bends to the left. You have to negotiate snowfields and boulders along the final steep climb to the pass. The Shuga-la (5250m; N 29°38.472ʹ, E 091°32.015ʹ) cannot be seen until you’re virtually on top of it. It’s marked by a large cairn covered in prayer flags and yak horns, and is the highest point of the trek. If you have some spare energy you can scramble up the hill to the west for superb views.

The route continues over the Shuga-la and then descends sharply through a boulder field. Be on the lookout for a clear trail marked by cairns on the left side of the boulder field. Pack animals sometimes have difficulty on this steep, muddy section. This trail traverses the ridge in a southeasterly direction, paralleling the valley below. Do not head directly down to the valley floor from the pass unless you have good reason. It’s a long, steep descent and once at the bottom you have to go back up the valley to complete the trek. In case of emergency, retreat down the valley for a bolt back to the Lhasa–Ganden Hwy near Dagtse, a long day of walking away.

The trail gradually descends to the valley floor, 1½ hours from the pass and 200m below it. The views of the valley and the lake at its head are among the highlights of the trek. Cross the large Tsotup-chu (4980m; N 29°37.366ʹ, E 091°33.288ʹ), which flows through the valley, and keep an eye out for the herders’ dogs. During heavy summer rains take special care to find a safe ford. The pastures in the area support large herds of yaks, goats and sheep, and during the trekking season herders are normally camped here, either in tents or in new plastic cabins. Known as Tsogo Numa, this is an ideal place to meet the herders, but dry, flat campsites are hard to find.

An alternative route to Samye via the Gampa-la (5050m) follows the main branch of the Tsotup-chu past a couple of lakes to the pass. South of the Gampa-la the trail plunges into a gorge, criss-crossing the stream that flows down from it. These fords may pose problems during summer rains or when completely frozen. See Gary McCue’s Trekking in Tibet – A Traveler’s Guide for details of this route.

Stage 3: Tsotup-chu Valley to Herders’ Camps

5 HOURS / 14KM / 300M ASCENT/400M DESCENT

From the Tsotup-chu ford, the main watercourse flows from the southeast and a minor tributary enters from the southwest. Follow this tributary (which quickly disappears underground) steeply up for about 30 minutes until you reach a large basin and a cairn that offers fine views down onto Palang Tsodü lake. You may hear the distant sounds of a mining operation in the valley behind.

Stay on the western side of the basin and turn into the first side valley opening on the right. A couple of minutes into the valley (and 45 minutes from the Tsotup-chu) you’ll pass a flat, walled group campsite (5079m; N 29°36.604ʹ, E 091°33.544ʹ). This is a nicer alternative campsite to the Tsotup-chu, but only consider it if you’re well acclimatised, as it’s 100m higher.

Follow this broad valley, which soon arcs south to the Chitu-la, about two hours away. The pass can be seen in the distance, a low rampart at the head of the valley that is a considerably easier goal than yesterday’s pass. The faint main trail stays on the western side of the valley before switching to the eastern side of the valley as you approach the pass. If you lose the trail just look for the easiest route up: the terrain is marshy and hillocky in early summer but not particularly difficult to navigate.

The Chitu-la (5210m; N 29°34.810ʹ, E 091°33.160ʹ) is topped by several cairns and a small glacial tarn. Climb onto the stone ledges just above the pass to savour the views over a snack before moving to the western side of the pass to find the trail down and to circumvent a sheer rock wall on its southern flank. A short descent will bring you into a basin with three small lakes. The trail skirts the western side of the first lake and then crosses to the eastern shores of the second two. It takes 45 minutes to reach the southern end of the basin, where you might be lucky enough to spot blue sheep.

Drop down from the basin on the western side of the stream and in 15 minutes you’ll pass a collection of cairns (5077m; N 29°33.924ʹ, E 091°32.790ʹ) to the right. A further 10 minutes brings you to the stone walls of a camp where herders have carved out level places for their tents.

Below the herders’ highest camp, the valley is squeezed in by vertical rock walls, forcing you to pick your way along the rock-strewn valley floor. Pass a side stream after 15 minutes and then cross over to the western side of the widening valley to recover the trail. In 20 more minutes you will come to a flat and a seasonal herders’ camp on the eastern side of the valley, which is good place to stop for yak-butter tea. At the lower end of the flat, return to the western side of the valley. The trail again disappears as it enters a scrub-willow and rosebush forest, but there is only one way to go to get to Samye and that is downstream.

In 20 minutes, when a tributary valley enters from the right, cross to the eastern side of the valley to reach another seasonal herders’ camp, inhabited for only a short time each year. Another 20 minutes beyond this camp, hop back to the west bank to avoid a cliff hugging the opposite side of the stream. Pass through a large meadow and cross the bridge back to the east bank. From this point the trail remains on the eastern side of the valley for several hours.

Campsites are numerous here. After 20 minutes you’ll pass herders’ tents near the spot where the side valley coming from the Gampa-la joins the main valley. A bridge crosses the side stream here. There are several possible campsites on the finger of land formed by the river junction, but the area can be busy in early summer with motorbike-riding Tibetan youth heading to the highlands in search of yartsa gunbu, a valuable medicinal fungus that is almost worth its weight in gold. If so continue on to the Diwaka Zampa bridge.

PASS HEIGHTS

Elevations in Tibet, especially for passes, are notoriously inconsistent, with maps and road signs rarely agreeing over the correct elevation. In this guide we have tried to use composite measurements, incorporating the most accurate maps, the most consistently agreed figures and on-the-spot GPS readings (which have their own inconsistencies and inaccuracies). Most figures should be accurate within 50m or so, but use the elevations here as a guide only.

Stages 4 & 5: Herders’ Camps to Samye Monastery

3 HOURS / 11KM / 550M DESCENT

The trail is now wide and easy to follow as it traces a course down the eastern side of the valley. Walk through the thickening scrub forest for 45 minutes and you will come to another stream entering from the eastern side of the main valley. Look for the wood-and-stone Diwaka Zampa bridge (4335m; N 29°30.439ʹ, E 091°33.165ʹ) 50m above the confluence.

The valley now bends to the right (west) and the trail enters the thickest and tallest part of the scrub forest. The right combination of elevation, moisture and aspect create a verdant environment, while just a few kilometres away desert conditions prevail. Several grassy campsites along this section make for a good alternative end to stage 3.

The next two-hour stretch of the trail is among the most delightful of the entire trek. According to local woodcutters more than 15 types of tree and shrub are found here, some growing as high as 6m. Fragrant junipers grow on exposed south-facing slopes, while rhododendrons prefer the shadier slopes. The rhododendrons start to bloom in early May.

The trail winds through a series of meadows. After 40 minutes the stony floodplain of a tributary joins the river from the north. In another 30 minutes look for a mass of prayer flags, stone shrines and an ancient juniper tree at a place known as Gen Do. This is a shrine (4165m; N 29°29.525ʹ, E 091°31.805ʹ) to the protector of the area, the goddess Dorje Yudronma. Just past the shrine, cross a small tributary stream beside another potential camping spot. In 45 minutes the forest rapidly thins and Changtang, the first permanent village since Hepu, pops up with its oddly jarring modern street lights. There’s good camping just before the village. From Changtang the walking trail becomes a full-fledged motorable road.

Look south to the distant mountains; this is the range on the far side of the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley. About 45 minutes down the valley at a prominent bend in it is the turn-off for the Yamalung Hermitage (གཡེར་མ་ལུང་, 聂玛隆圣洞, Nièmǎlóng Shèngdòng), visible on the cliff face high above the valley. A small teahouse run by the nuns of Yamalung sells soft drinks, beer and instant noodles. There’s fine camping across the bridge; the path to Yamalung also leads up from here. It’s a 45-minute steep climb to the hermitage. Yamalung (also called Emalung) is where the Tibetan wonder-worker Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated and received empowerment from the long-life deity Tsepame (Amitayus).

Most trekkers end their trek after a visit to Yamalung. On the 20-minute drive to Samye look for a ridge spur called Dragmar. On the ridge is the partially rebuilt palace where King Trisong Detsen is said to have been born. Formerly a lavish temple, it now stands forlorn. Below, just off the road, is a small red-and-white temple (3687m; N 29°22.802ʹ, E 091°30.399ʹ), which is often locked and enshrines the stump of an ancient tree. Legend has it that a red-and-white sandalwood tree grew here, nourished by the buried placenta of Trisong Detsen. During the Cultural Revolution the tree was chopped down.

Tsurphu to Dorje Ling

Beginning at Tsurphu Monastery, this rugged walk crosses several high valleys before emerging into the broad and windswept Yangpachen Valley. Combining alpine tundra and sweeping mountain panoramas with visits to monasteries, this trek offers a nice balance of culture and wilderness.

The best time for this walk is from mid-April to mid-October. Summer can be rainy but be prepared for snow at any time. As you will be in nomad country, beware of vicious dogs, some of which take a sadistic pride in chasing hapless foreigners. Fuel and food are not available, so come prepared. There are few permanent settlements along the way and the inhabitants are often away from home. Your only option on this trek is to be fully self-sufficient.

Tsurphu Monastery (4500m) is a good place to spend a night acclimatising. You can overnight at the monastery guesthouse or camp at the area around the Karmapa’s former lingka (garden), 10 minutes’ walk upstream from the monastery. This is the place where you’ll likely meet your yaks and yak handler the next morning. Villagers in Tsurphu ask around ¥1500 for a guide and two yaks for a five-day return trip to Yangpachen. Horses are generally not available. Two yaks are the minimum.

It’s essential to be properly acclimatised before attempting this trek. It’s not enough to just spend a couple of days in Lhasa (3650m), you really need to have spent a night or two at around 4500m before heading to Tsurphu.

The Chinese People’s Liberation Army use the plains around Dorje Ling Nunnery for military training and the area can be closed for manoeuvres in late summer. Check with your agency and yak handler before setting off and be sure to get local advice.

TSURPHU TO DORJE LING AT A GLANCE

Duration Three days

Distance 45km

Difficulty Medium to difficult

Start Tsurphu Monastery

Finish Dorje Ling Nunnery

Highest Point Lasar-la (5400m)

Nearest Large Town Lhasa

Accommodation Camping

Best Time to Trek Mid-April to mid-October

Summary An excellent choice for those who want to get a close look at the lifestyle of the drokpas (herders). You need to be well acclimatised for this high-elevation trek, which never dips below 4400m.

Stage 1: Tsurphu Monastery to Leten

3½ HOURS / 11KM / 500M ASCENT

The first day is a short one so consider spending the morning visiting Tsurphu Monastery or walking the monastery kora.

The trek begins by heading west up the valley. Follow the kora trail 10 minutes west to the lingka (4550m), a walled copse of old trees with a brook. This garden-like wood has been established as a trekkers’ camp free of charge by the monks of Tsurphu. The trees here are the last you will see until after finishing the trek. You’ll probably meet your yaks and yak handler here so will need to budget some time to load the yaks.

Just above the copse by the tarboche (prayer pole), the valley splits: follow the right (northwest) branch and remain on the north side of the stream. There is now a dirt road and electricity pole all the way to Leten.

Walking through a rocky gorge along a well-graded trail for 45 minutes brings you to Shupshading (4700m), a seasonal herders’ camp on an easily missed shelf above the trail. After 40 minutes look for a line of ruined red chörtens to your right, known as the Suru Bompa. After a further 15 minutes the valley looks like it splits; follow the main river valley (to the left) and cross the stream on a small concrete bridge in another 15 minutes (4890m). Above the north side of the bridge is the six-house village of Sercha Sumdo, but the trail now continues on the south side of the valley. In another 20 minutes you’ll pass a popular camping spot. Look out for small herds of na (blue sheep) on the slopes to the north.

About two hours from the lingka, by a ruined mani wall (N 29°43.373’, E 90°30.855’), the road climbs up over a high saddle to the left while the trail splits off and follows the valley floor. From the mani wall Leten is about an hour away: the trail passes to the right of a large cliff, past the remains of winter ice, before swinging to the left up into the natural bowl of Leten.

Half a dozen families live year-round in the drokpa settlement of Leten (5090m; N 29°43.493’, E 090°30.237’), braving the severe climate with their livestock. Leten is the last chance to find yaks. Camping spots are limited by the lumpy terrain and places already staked out by the nomads. If you value your peace and quiet, consider camping in the valley below Leten.

Spend at least one night in Leten acclimatising.

Stage 2: Leten to Bartso

5-6 HOURS / 15KM / 300M ASCENT/600M DESCENT

It’s about a three-hour walk from Leten to the Lasar-la. Head for the northern half of the settlement (assuming you aren’t already there). The route climbs steeply up a short ridge, reaching the highest house. Bear northwest into a steep side valley. As you ascend, a reddish knob of rock looms up ahead. Angle to the north, or right, of this formation, past a mani wall in the centre of the bowl, and leave the valley by swinging right to the top of the minor Damchen-la pass marked by three cairns (5270m; N 29°43.936’, E 090°29.862’). It’s a 45-minute walk to here from Leten. The peak attached to this spur is called Damchen Nyingtri and is holy to the god ruling the environs.

As per Buddhist tradition, stay to the left of the three cairns and descend sharply to yak corrals. As you look into the curved valley ahead you’ll notice a round, bald, red peak called Tamdrim Dora; the main trail you’ll be following for the next hour or so keeps to the right of that.

Once on the valley bottom, stay on the west (true right) side of the stream and strike out north (up the valley). In 15 minutes a side-stream enters from the west: keep following the main north branch as the valley swings to the right. In another 10 minutes you’ll see the Mt Kailash-shaped O-Lha peak, the prominent jagged mountain to the northeast. Walk up the widening valley through arctic-like mounds of tundra for 40 minutes, following a minor trail. Then, as the valley floor veers west, look for a cairn (5310m; N 29°45.634’, E 090°29.812’) on the opposite bank of the stream.

Using this cairn as a marker, bear northwest over an inclined plain. Continue ascending as the plain opens wider in the direction of the pass. The Lasar-la (5400m; N 29°46.167’, E 090°29.602’) is a broad gap at the highest point in the plain, and is only heralded by small cairns and few prayer flags. (A separate pass to the northwest, the Tigu-la, also descends towards Yangpachen, but this is not the route described here.)

From the Lasar-la the descent is gradual. A faint trail can be found on the east side of the stream that forms below the pass. About 30 minutes from the pass the trail passes a decent campsite, just before descending into a short gully. A side valley joins from the right, offering fine views of the back side of O-Lha. When this side-stream joins the main stream, cross over to the west side of the main watercourse. The way to the valley bottom is now much steeper but the broad slopes make walking relatively easy. In 20 minutes you’ll reach the valley floor. There are many possible campsites along this next stretch, as well as views of the snowcapped Nyenchen Tanglha range to the north. Gravitate to the west side of the valley.

The valley is covered with hummocks, but a trail avoids the ups and downs of these mounds of turf and earth. About 60 minutes along the valley bottom, just past a large corral, you meet a large westward bend in the valley. If water levels are high, you should ford the river here and continue on the north side of the valley. In early summer, when water levels are lower, you can simply follow the valley as it bends to the west and ford the river further downstream.

As you now head westwards, along the north side of the river, there are superb views of the surrounding mountains. In the north is Brize, which is a heavily glaciated peak enclosing the south side of the Yangpachen Valley, and towards the west is a distinctive pinnacle named Tarze. Brize, the ‘female-yak herder’, and Tarze, the ‘horse keeper’, are just two of many topographical features in a mythical society ruled by the great mountain god Nyenchen Tanglha. These two mountains make convenient landmarks for trekkers further along the route as you go against the grain by heading north over a series of drainage systems that run from east to west.

Around 40 minutes after the big bend the trail hits the herders’ camp of Tangba (4950m; N 29°48.955’, E 090°28.186’). This drokpa village is now devoid of permanent dwellings but is still used as a summer camp. There are decent places to camp in the vicinity. The surrounding hills are still dotted with juniper. In the 1960s and ‘70s huge amounts of this valuable bush were extracted from the region and trucked to Lhasa to feed the hearths of the new provincial city.

Stage 3: Bartso to Dorje Ling Nunnery

4-5 HOURS / 15KM / 150M ASCENT/150M DESCENT

Look northwest from Tangba to the far end of the valley. A clearly visible trail traverses the ridge from the valley to the top of the ridge. Make for this trail, 25 minutes’ walk over marshy ground from Tangba, following the fence line. It’s another half-hour to the summit of the ridge. A trail leads up to a saddle north of the valley for fine views of Nyenchen Tanglha. However, the more straightforward main path continues down into a gully heading westward past a fenced-off pasture. As you exit the gully you’ll see the village of Tajung in the distance. Tajung is a decent alternative spot to end the second stage, though the insatiably curious villagers can be demanding of your time and supplies.

Bear right (north-northeast-wards) in the direction of Brize, keeping Tajung villlage on your left, straight towards a hill topped by solar panels and a mobile phone mast. As you get close to the hill, bear left to join the electricity poles and cross a small yak pasture.

One excellent possible side trip from here is the 20-minute climb to the top of the aforementioned hill, known as Ani Nyinga Ri (4800m; N 29°51.683’, E 90°25.972’). Views of the Nyenchen Tanglha Range, and the distinctive flat-topped 7111m massif that gives its name to the entire range, are fantastic from here. Nyenchen Tanglha is the holiest mountain in central Tibet, the haunt of a divine white warrior on a white horse. The range is part of the trans-Himalaya, which circumscribes the plateau, dividing southern Tibet from the Changtang. Don’t climb to the top if there are military exercises going on nearby.

A descent north from the saddle of Nyinga Ri brings you to a stream at the base of a ridge, aligned east to west. Bear left down the valley to cross the stream at a bridge next to two whitewashed buildings and climb the small ridge on the opposite bank in just a few minutes. From the top of the ridge the terrain gradually falls away to the north. Here you have good views of the village just upstream of Dorje Ling Nunnery. The nunnery, which is out of view, sits at the bottom of a rock outcrop visible from the ridge top.

Strike out directly across the plain in a northwesterly direction for the village, taking in the awesome views of the glaciers tumbling off Brize and the fertile flood plain below. The plain here is criss-crossed by tank tracks and pockmarked with bunkers used by the Chinese army in their training exercises. After dipping briefly into a dry gully you crest a small ridge and see Dorje Ling (4460m; N 29°53.615’, E 090°24.791’); the nunnery is less than one hour away.

The centrepiece of this friendly place of 60 nuns is the red dukhang (assembly hall). A high and low kora offer opportunity for more climbing if the day’s walk hasn’t been enough for you. A teahouse across the stream to the southwest of the nunnery offers sweet tea and thugba, a single-roomed guesthouse (¥50 per bed) and a cramped campsite. Cleaner camps can be found upstream of Dorje Ling.

Most treks now end at Dorje Ling. Roads head northeast from here to Yangpachen Monastery, while a short road cuts northwest to Gyadar to join the paved road to Shigatse over the Margyang-la pass.

Perched on top of a ridge, the 15th-century Yangpachen Monastery overlooks a broad sweep of trans-Himalaya peaks and is worth visiting at the end of your trek. The monastery was once home to 115 monks, but many of them have fled to Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, and less than half remain behind. Yangpachen is headed by Shamar Rinpoche (also known as the Sharmapa), a leading lama of the Kagyupa order, whose 14th incarnation is based in India. You’ll see images here of the important fourth Sharmapa (wearing a red hat), the 16th Karmapa (a black hat) and the ‘alternative’ rival Karmapa, who is supported by the Sharmapa in India.

From Yangpachen Monastery it’s an 18km road journey to Yangpachen town. About halfway there look out for Galo Nunnery, nestled in the hills to the left after about 7km. From Yangpachen town it’s 7km west to the swimming-pool-sized Yangpachen Hot Springs (羊八井温泉; Yángbājǐng Wēnchuán; ¥128; h7am-9pm) complex, great for easing your aching limbs.

TREKKING TIBETAN STYLE

Given the chance, many Tibetans would rather ride or drive than go on foot, but there are also great trekkers among them. The ubiquitous shepherds traipse around on a daily basis searching out pasture for their sheep and goats. Typically they set out early in the morning and cover up to 40km before returning to camp in the evening with their herds.

Then there are the many pilgrims who visit temples, monasteries and holy mountains on foot. Pilgrimages can last two or three years and stretch from one end of the vast Tibetan Plateau to the other.

The greatest Tibetan trekkers though are the ‘swift foot’, mystic athletes reputed to move many leagues in a single day. Imagine leaving London in the morning and arriving in Edinburgh in the evening without ever taking your feet off the ground! It is said that years of special physical training and esoteric initiation are required to accomplish the amazing feats of the swift foot.

While few trekkers visiting Tibet are likely to attain swift foot status, there is still much to be gained by emulating the native people. When walking long distances they breathe slowly and deeply, filling their lungs completely. Tibetan walkers inhale and exhale exclusively through the nose, conditioning the cold, dry air before it reaches the lungs. Like the proverbial turtle they tread slowly and steadily, avoiding excess rest stops. Being immersed in prayer is also traditionally thought to aid trekkers. At the very least it helps keep the mind off the minor discomforts that inevitably come from moving a long time under one’s own steam. For a bit of a challenge try imitating the rolling gait of Tibetans, but be forewarned: you may need to spend a few years on horseback before perfecting this technique!

Shalu to Ngor

This mini-trek follows the old trade route between the great Buddhist centres of Shalu and Ngor, marking a glorious chapter in Tibetan history. Treading the ancient trail you can almost feel the caravans laden with scriptures and treasures that once passed this way.

The trek begins at the historic Shalu Monastery and traverses west over two minor ranges to Ngor Monastery. The scenery is unlike other treks in Tibet, through dry, eroded canyons and gulches that feel more like Texas than Tibet. There are no big mountain views or high-altitude herders’ camps here, but the walk is bookended by two fabulous monasteries and the overnight campsite is one of Tibet’s finest. The two hikes are not long, so you can spend the morning of day one visiting Shalu Monastery and Ri-puk Hermitage and the afternoon of day two visiting Ngor and Nartang monasteries.

Logistically the trek is unusual because it essentially consists of two half-day hikes connected by an overnight car camp. Your vehicle can drive to the first night’s campsite, so you don’t need to worry about hiring pack animals to carry your gear or supplies. You’ll still need to be self-sufficient with camping supplies and food and it’s a good idea to bring water with you in the car. Your driver and guide will also need camping equipment and food.

Much of the walk is through heavily eroded, waterless ravines and slopes, so bring plenty of drinking water from the trailhead. Having a local guide from Shalu and Lungsang is a good idea as routefinding is often difficult in the maze of canyons, eroded defiles and side channels. It would be easy to slip and twist and ankle here. Strong-soled shoes are essential on the rocky terrain.

The optimal walking season is from the beginning of April to the end of October. In summer the trail can be sizzling hot, and in other months cold and windy, so be prepared.

SHALU TO NGOR AT A GLANCE

Duration Two days

Distance 27km

Difficulty Medium

Start Shalu Monastery

Finish Ngor Monastery

Highest Point Char-la (4440m)

Nearest Large Town Shigatse

Accommodation Camping

Best Time to Trek Early April to late October

Summary This short walk gives you a taste of trekking in Tibet without any of the logistical complications. The trail and passes are not high or difficult and the trailheads are easily accessible from Shigatse.

Stage 1: Shalu Monastery to Upper Lungsang

4-5 HOURS / 13KM / 420M ASCENT/240M DESCENT

After visiting wonderful Shalu Monastery (3980m) drive south from the village, possibly detouring to visit nearby Ri-puk Hermitage, set on a hillside on the west side of the valley.

Start the walk at the covered chorten in Phunup village, 6km south of Shalu. Head northwest past a stone sheep’s pen to a collection of white cairns atop a small ridge. After 15 minutes you’ll arrive at a large cairn and can see the path ahead of you in the red rock. The pass is the obvious low point in the range, at least one hour away.

The trail descends through a landscape that varies in colour from white to caramel, rust, magenta and purple to enter the stream bed coming from the Showa-la. The trail soon climbs back up the right side of the valley only to drop back in and out of the purple stream bed in quick succession. After about 30 minutes you pass four white-topped cairns. As the stream narrows to a gulch climb to the right, beside a cairn, passing more cairns as you ascend to the shelf above the gully. The trail climbs steeply to a point just below a group of ruins and then curves left to the pass, about 90 minutes from Phunup. The top is marked by white cairns.

From the Showa-la (4170m; N 29°06.371ʹ, E 088°56.939ʹ), the second pass, the Char-la, can be seen in the range of hills west of an intervening valley. It is the dip in the crest of the range. The easy-to-follow trail descends from the pass along the south side of a ravine. In one hour you will reach the valley floor. Leave the trail just before it crosses a small rise marked with cairns and continue west towards a distant group of trees. Cross over the sandy north–south valley until you hit the road, where you could meet your vehicle, making today’s walk less than three hours. You could then detour south 3.5km in your vehicle to visit the nearby Dropde Monastery.

If you want to continue walking, head northwest along a connecting road to enter the side valley, soon reaching the roadside village of Manitinge, where the few copses of trees are protected behind stone enclosures. The road continues up through the village of Siphu, past a small reservoir and on to the village of Lower Lungsang (4060m; N 29°06.265ʹ, E 088°51.824ʹ). Continue on a few minutes to the lovely walled grove that surrounds the abandoned buildings of Upper Lungsang. There are plenty of flat, shady campsites here, though there is no water early in the summer. Your vehicle can park nearby. Be wary of dogs from the village during the night.

Stage 2: Upper Lungsang to Ngor Monastery

2-3 HOURS / 6KM / 340M ASCENT/270M DESCENT

From Upper Lungsang the trail cuts across the valley floor, gradually making its way back to the northern side of the valley. The cart track does not extend past the village and the trail up to the pass may be difficult to find in places. It is less than two hours from Upper Lungsang to the Char-la. At first, the trail skirts the edge of a gravel wash. However, in 15 minutes a series of livestock tracks climbs out of the stream bed and onto an eroded shelf that forms above it. Observe the old agricultural fields here, many of which have been long abandoned due to a lack of water.

The terrain becomes more rugged and a gorge forms below the trail. There is a small white building and reservoir (4190m; N 29°06.619ʹ, E 088°50.763ʹ) 45 minutes above Upper Lungsang. This is the last convenient place to collect water until over the pass. From the reservoir, the trail continues along the side valley, crossing two small gullies and a water pipe, sticking to the north side of the main gully.

After 45 minutes from Lungsang the stream splits; head up the central spur, veering towards the right, climbing up the left side of the right-hand valley. Paths also follow the southern side of the valley, joining the main trail at the pass. At one time these trails were well maintained and formed a main trade link between Shalu and Sakya Monasteries, but they have fallen into disrepair.

The trail becomes increasingly exposed, switchbacking steeply to avoid a landslide, before reaching the top of the ridge. Continue along the shelf, dipping one last time into a gully before curving left to the white chörtens of the pass, an obvious notch in the ridge line. From the Char-la (4440m; N 29°07.000ʹ, E 088°49.850ʹ), mountain ranges stretch to the west across the horizon and Ngor Monastery is visible directly below.

Ngor is a 45-minute steep descent from the pass. The route from the Char-la descends the south side of a ravine that forms below it. It’s hard to follow the main path; essentially keep to the south side, eventually dipping into the ravine and climbing to the northern side, to meet the monastery road beside a toilet and rubbish dump, a rather unceremonious end to the hike! Head to the monastery restaurant for a reviving milk tea and bowl of noodles.

Sakya master Ngorchen Kunga Sangpo founded Ngor Monastery in 1429, giving rise to the Ngorpa suborder, a distinctive school of Buddhist thought. Once an important centre of learning, Ngor used to boast four monastic estates and 18 residential units inhabited by 340 monks (there are currently 260). Several large buildings have been rebuilt, including the shedra (monastic school) and debating courtyard next to the parking lot (there is debating here at 11.30am and 6.30pm). The largest structure is the assembly hall, called the Gonshung. Head upstairs to see the monastery’s treasures – a tooth of the primordial buddha, the boot of the fifth Dalai Lama and the horn of a rhino. The outer walls of its gallery are painted in vertical red, white and blue stripes, a characteristic decorative technique used by the Sakya order. The three colours represent the Rigsum Gonpo, the three most important bodhisattvas. The present head of Ngor, Luding Khenpo, resides in northern India.

Most trekkers end their walk at Ngor. A new improved road now connects Ngor to Nartang Monastery, 19km away.

Mt Kailash Kora

The age-old path around Mt Kailash is one of the world’s great pilgrimage routes and completely encircles Asia’s holiest mountain. With a 5650m pass to conquer, this kora is a test of both the mind and the spirit.

There’s some gorgeous mountain scenery along this trek, including close-ups of the majestic pyramidal Mt Kailash, but just as rewarding is the chance to see and meet your fellow pilgrims, many of whom have travelled hundreds of kilometres on foot to get here. Apart from local Tibetans, there are normally dozens of Hindus on the kora during the main pilgrim season (June to September). Most ride horses, with yak teams carrying their supplies. There are also plenty of Chinese tourists.

The route around Mt Kailash is a simple one: you start by crossing a plain, then head up a wide river valley, climb up and over the 5650m Drölma-la, head down another river valley, and finally cross the original plain to the starting point. It’s so straightforward and so perfect a natural circuit that it’s easy to see how it has been a pilgrim favourite for thousands of years.

The Mt Kailash trekking season runs from mid-May until mid-October, but trekkers should always be prepared for changeable weather. Snow may be encountered on the Drölma-la at any time of year and the temperature will often drop well below freezing at night. The pass tends to be snowed in from early November to early April.

The kora is becoming more and more popular. A tent and your own food are always a nice luxury, but there is now accommodation and simple food at Drira-puk and Zutul-puk. Guides can even book you a room here in advance. Bottled water, beer, instant noodles and tea are available every few hours at teahouse tents. Natural water sources abound, but you should bring the means of water purification. A dirt road now encircles two-thirds of the kora, but traffic is light and it’s fairly easy to avoid.

Horses, yaks and porters are all available for hire in Darchen, the gateway town to the kora. Big groups often hire yaks to carry their supplies, but yaks will only travel in pairs or herds, so you have to hire at least two. Horses are an easier option but are surprisingly expensive because they are in great demand by Indian pilgrims. Most hikers carry their own gear or get by with the services of a local porter (¥210 per day for a minimum of three days). All guides and pack animals have to be arranged through a central office in Darchen.

MT KAILASH KORA AT A GLANCE

Duration Three days

Distance 52km

Difficulty Medium to difficult

Start/Finish Darchen

Highest Point Drölma-la (5650m)

Nearest Large Town Ali

Accommodation Camping or monastery guesthouses

Best Time to Trek May to mid-October

Summary The circuit, or kora, of Mt Kailash (6714m) is one of the most important pilgrimages in Asia. It’s been a religious sanctuary since pre-Buddhist times, and a trek here wonderfully integrates the spiritual, cultural and physical dimensions of a trip to Tibet. Being able to meet pilgrims from across Tibet and other countries adds to the appeal.

Stage 1: Darchen to Dira-puk Monastery

5-6 HOURS / 20KM / 200M ASCENT

The kora path begins unceremoniously at a checkpoint on the western edge of Darchen, where you will show your Kailash entry ticket. Quickly leaving all traces of the village behind, you head westward across the Barkha plain, a sandy expanse speckled with greenery like a massive camouflage jacket. To the north, the east–west ridge blocks your view of Mt Kailash, but to the southeast are clear views of huge Gurla Mandata (7728m). Api (7132m) and other peaks in Nepal are visible to the south; look to the southwest for the sharp twin humps of Kamet (7756m) in India.

Only 4km from Darchen the trail climbs up over the southwestern end of the ridge to reach a cairn at 4790m. The cairn is bedecked with prayer flags and marks the first views of Mt Kailash’s southern or lapis lazuli face and a chaktsal gang, the first of the kora’s four prostration points.

Very quickly the trail bends round to the north and enters the barren Lha-chu Valley. From here on, the narrow Lha-chu River provides a steady supply of water all the way to Drira-puk Monastery. For the best water, however, look for the occasional side stream flowing down from the cliffs.

The valley is so open at this point you can see ahead to the tall Tarboche flagpole (4750m) in the distance. The Tarboche area is one of the most significant sites for Tibet’s most important festival, Saga Dawa, when hundreds of pilgrims clamour to watch the annual raising of the flagpole. The pole was first erected in 1681 during the reign of the fifth Dalai Lama to commemorate a military victory over Ladakh.

Just west of Tarboche is the ‘two-legged’ Chörten Kangnyi. It’s an auspicious act for pilgrims to walk through the small chörten’s archway, which is decorated with hanging yak heads.

A short climb above Tarboche to the east is the sky-burial site of the 84 mahasiddhas (Tantric practitioners who reached a high level of awareness). The site is revered, as it was once reserved for monks and lamas, but is no longer used and is now off-limits to foreigners: steer well clear as wild dogs guard the site (a Chinese hiker was attacked here in 2015). The first of the kora’s three Buddha footprints is here, but it’s hard to find.

Beyond Tarboche the valley narrows dramatically at an area called Sershong. You now begin to get clear views of Mt Kailash, standing to attention above the eastern ridge. After passing a series of ruined chörtens and a number of long mani walls, the trail reaches a collection of teahouse tents beside a small bridge across the Lha-chu. The bridge is 40 minutes’ walk from Tarboche, about 2½ hours from Darchen, and is directly below Chuku Monastery. Most Indian pilgrims begin their kora here.

Chuku Monastery (4820m), founded in the 13th century by Götsangpa Gompo Pel, a Kagyupa-order master, is perched high on the hillside, a steep 15-minute hike above the valley. It blends so perfectly into its rocky background that you may not even notice it’s there. All Mt Kailash monasteries were wrecked during the Cultural Revolution and Chuku was the first to be rebuilt. Inside, look for a glass case over the altar: it contains a highly revered marble statue called Chuku Opame (originally from India and reputed to talk) and a conch shell inlaid with silver. Beside the altar there’s a copper pot and elephant tusks, the latter a leftover from when Bhutan exerted religious control over the monasteries around Kailash.

From the Chuku bridge the main pilgrimage trail follows the eastern bank for about three hours to Drira-puk Monastery. Take your time here as this stretch has some of the best scenery of the entire kora. High sedimentary faces, wonderfully puckered and dented, and chiselled into shapes that seem alive, hem you in on both sides. When the weather is warmer there’s even the occasional ribbon of water tumbling down the slopes from hundreds of metres above.

Many of the formations along the way have mythical connections, with a number of them related to Tibet’s legendary hero Gesar of Ling – but you’re unlikely to find them without a guide. One easy one to find is Gesar’s saddle, a stone shaped with a central dip like a saddle. Easier to find is the second prostration point (N 31°04.430ʹ, E 081°16.942ʹ), with its prayer flags and clear view of the west side of Mt Kailash. Around 30 minutes later, just past a collection of tea tents selling the usual drinks and snacks, look for a second Buddha footprint, and the Tamdrin Dronkhang (N 31°05.126ʹ, E 081°17.264ʹ), a carving depicting the protector Tamdrin, a wrathful horse-headed deity, on a black stone smeared with aeons of yak butter.

If you are planning to camp, you could consider taking the west-bank trail from Chuku Monastery, as there are some fine grassy campsites on this side (4890m), across the river from the tent teahouses near the Tamdrin carving, and about an hour before Drira-puk. The west or ruby face of Mt Kailash makes a dramatic backdrop to this campsite and in the early morning Tibetan pilgrims can be seen striding past on the other side of the river, already well into their one-day circuit. Be aware, though, that walking on the western side may require wading across side streams, especially in July and August. Wear socks or trekking sandals when you cross; it helps on the slippery rocks.

From the Tamdrin rock, the trail starts to climb and heads northeast toward Drira-puk Monastery. Cross the large bridge to head directly to the monastery on the west bank or continue straight ahead for the main trail. After 15 minutes you’ll spot a couple of buildings. To the right are the rudimentary plastic cabins of the Snowland Brothers Restaurant & Hotel (雪域兄弟欢聚宾馆, Xuěyù Xiōngdì Huānjù Bīnguǎn; %188 8907 8118; dm ¥60-80), with a friendly restaurant (mains ¥25 to ¥50). Next door is a huge new government guesthouse, scheduled for completion in 2019. Below and to the left is the large Shishapangma Guesthouse (西夏邦马宾馆, Xīxiàbāngmǎ Bīnguǎn; dm ¥100-150), a two-storey concrete guesthouse boasting Nepali food and real beds for up to 200 guests – but hardly a single working toilet! The quietest and most comfortable option is a bed in the Drira-puk Monastery Guesthouse, which has comfortable new rooms but limited food.

If you’re camping, head for the northern valley (leading to the source of the Indus River) 10 minutes’ walk east of the monastery.

Drira-puk (Lhalung Drira) Monastery (5080m) sits in a superb location on the hillside north of the Lha-chu across from the Shishapangma Guesthouse. It directly faces the astonishing north face of Mt Kailash, which from this angle appears as a massive, jet-black slab of granite ornamented with alabaster-white stripes of snow. Three lesser mountains are arrayed in front of Mt Kailash: Chana Dorje (Vajrapani) to the west, Jampelyang (Manjushri) to the east and Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) in the centre, but there’s no doubting who is the superstar in this band.

Drira-puk Monastery takes its name from the words drira (meaning ‘female yak horn’) and puk (‘cave’) – this is where the Bön warrior-god-king Gekho tossed boulders around with his horns. The great saint Götsangpa, who opened up the kora route around Mt Kailash, was led this far by a yak that turned out to be the snow-lion-faced goddess Dakini (Khandroma), who guards the Khando Sanglam-la. Colourful murals mark the entry to Götsangpa’s atmospheric meditation cave, one of which depicts Dakini. Head to the top floor to see the unusual meditation niches set around a central shrine. The monastery was rebuilt in 1985 and is currently undergoing expansion. Don’t miss the views of Kailash’s north face framed in the line of white chörtens outside the monastery.

To get to the monastery from the main collection of guesthouses, cross two footbridges from the Shishapangma Guesthouse.

If you have the time and the energy, consider walking up to the Kangkyam Glacier that descends from the sheer north face of Mt Kailash. It takes about two hours there and back and you’ll feel you’re getting so close to the peak that you could touch it. You’ll get great photos part of the way up from a series of prayer flags, or continue almost to the foot of the glacier for the closest neck-craning views.

ESSENTIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR WALKING AROUND MT KAILASH

There are several important questions to consider when planning to walk the 52km Mt Kailash circuit. First, will you be walking the mountain in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction? Hindus, Jains and Buddhists go clockwise, but followers of Bön go anticlockwise.

If you’re Tibetan, you’ll probably plan to complete the circuit in one hard day’s slog. Achieving this feat requires a predawn start and a late-afternoon return to Darchen. Otherwise, plan on a comfortable three days around the holy mountain. Some very devout Tibetans make the round much more difficult by prostrating themselves the entire way. Count on around three weeks to complete a kora in this manner and be sure to wear knee padding and thick gloves.

It is said by Tibetans that circling the mountain once will wipe out the sins of a lifetime, while completing 108 circuits guarantees instant nirvana. Those with an eye to economy should note that koras completed during a full moon or in the Tibetan Year of the Horse are more beneficial than ordinary ones.

If you’re not a Buddhist, Bönpo or Hindu, the promise of liberation may not grab you no matter how caught up in the moment you are. And yet many foreigners go truly expecting to experience something holy or profound. This is a little like trying to fall in love. But why not?

Stage 2: Dira-puk Monastery to Zutul-puk Monastery

7-8 HOURS / 18KM / 550M ASCENT/600M DESCENT

No doubt when you wake in the morning and step outside you’ll want to revel in the glory of your surroundings. Mt Kailash’s dramatic black face dominates the skyline, while the middle slopes echo with the moans of yak teams complaining as drivers load them with the day’s supplies.

The main kora path heads off to the east, crossing the Lha-chu by bridge, and then climbs on to a moraine to meet the trail on the east bank. The long ascent up the Drölma-chu Valley that will eventually lead to the Drölma-la has begun. Bring water to last a few hours.

Less than an hour along is the meadow at Jarok Donkhang (5210m), where some trekking groups set up camp. It’s not wise to camp any higher up than here because of the risks associated with altitude.

Near Jarok Donkhang a trail branches off to the southeast, leading over the snow-covered Khando Sanglam-la. This shortcut to the eastern side of Mt Kailash bypasses the normal route over the Drölma-la, but only those on their auspicious 13th kora may use it. The lion-faced goddess Dakini, who led Götsangpa to Drira-puk, makes sure of that. The last teahouse tent before the pass is located near here.

Also accessed from Jarok Donkhang is the glacier that descends from the east ridge off the north face of Mt Kailash, down through the Pölung Valley between Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) and Jampelyang (Manjushri). This glacier can be reached in a return trip of a couple of hours from Jarok Donkhang. You can follow the glacial stream that runs down the middle of the valley to merge with the Drölma-chu, or you can avoid losing altitude from Jarok Donkhang by terracing around the side of Jampelyang.

Only a short distance above Jarok Donkhang, just past a seasonal teahouse tent and about 90 minutes from the day’s starting point, is the rocky expanse of Shiva-tsal (5330m). Pilgrims are supposed to undergo a symbolic death at this point, entering into the realm of the Lord of the Dead, until they reach the top of the Drölma-la and are reborn. It is customary to leave something behind at Shiva-tsal – an item of clothing, a drop of blood or a lock of hair – to represent the act of leaving this life behind.

After Shiva-tsal the trail mercifully flattens for a time and proceeds along a glacial ridge. There are a number of interesting sights ahead, such as the sin-testing stone of Bardo Trang – a flat boulder that pilgrims are supposed to squeeze under to measure their sinfulness.

About 30 minutes from Shiva-tsal the trail swings eastward for the final ascent. The saddle is fairly dull looking, just a long slope of boulders and scree, but there are some stark, jagged peaks to the right. Look south for your last glimpse of the north face of Mt Kailash, since there are no views of the mountain from the pass.

Allow around 45 minutes for the final 200m climb to the top of the Drölma-la (5650m; N 31°05.711’, E 081°22.216’). The trail disappears at times, merging with glacial streams in summer, but the way up, up, up is obvious. Take your time. There’s no shame in letting children and elderly folks pass you. If you can’t go more than a few metres at a time, then don’t.

After a few false summits, the rocky pass is reached. The great cubic Drölma Do (Drölma’s Rock) that marks the top is barely visible behind an enormous number of prayer flags. Pilgrims paste money onto the rock with yak butter, and stoop to pass under the lines of prayer flags and add a new string or two to the collection. They also chant the Tibetan pass-crossing mantra, ‘ki ki so so, lha gyalo’ (ki ki so so being the empowerment and happiness invocation, lha gyalo meaning ‘the gods are victorious’). They have now been reborn, and, by the mercy and compassion of Drölma, their sins have been forgiven.

The tale associated with the revered Drölma Do is worth telling. When Götsangpa pioneered the kora and wandered into the valley of Dakini (Khandroma), he was led back to the correct route by 21 wolves that were, of course, merely 21 emanations of Drölma (Tara), the goddess of mercy and protector of the pass. Reaching the pass, the 21 wolves merged into one and then merged again into the great boulder. To this day Drölma helps worthy pilgrims on the difficult ascent.

Weather permitting, most pilgrims and trekkers pause at the pass for a rest and refreshments before starting the steep descent. This section can be very slippery when there is packed snow. Almost immediately, Gauri Kund (5608m; the Tibetan name, Tukje Chenpo, translates as ‘Lake of Compassion’) comes into view below. Hindu pilgrims are supposed to immerse themselves in the lake’s green waters, breaking the ice if necessary, but few actually do.

It takes approximately an hour to make the long and steep 400m descent to the grassy banks of the Lham-chu Khir. You may have to cross snowfields at first, sometimes leaping across streams that have cut through the valley floor, but later the trail turns dry and rocky. Walking sticks are useful here as the last section is particularly steep.

En route there is a much-revered footprint of Milarepa, though, again, spotting it on your own is difficult. When the trail reaches the valley floor, you can recover over a sweet tea at a collection of teahouse tents. There’s a public toilet here. A huge rock topped by the kora’s third Buddha footprint (shabje drakdo) stands just above (5245m). Figure on between 3½ and five hours to get here from Drira-puk.

As with the Lha-chu Valley on the western side of Mt Kailash, there are routes that follow both sides of the river. The main east-bank trail now follows an unpaved road and electricity lines, so consider sticking to the western side for some peace and quiet.

About 30 minutes south, a valley comes down from the Khando Sanglam-la to join the western trail. This valley provides only the briefest glimpse of Mt Kailash’s eastern or crystal face. The kora’s third prostration point is at the valley mouth, but it’s easily missed.

Grassy fields start to appear alongside the river, affording those with tents endless spots to set up camp. In the meantime the road crosses to the western side of the valley, passing a teahouse and derelict accommodation at Sangye Menlong. A side valley enters from the left. From here on the river changes name to the Dzong-chu (Fortress River). You then pass a teahouse and simple accommodation run by an elderly Tibetan couple, which makes for a quiet alternative to Zutul-puk.

Zutul-puk Monastery (4820m) is a further 30 minutes’ walk, a wearisome two hours’ walk from the Buddha footprint teahouses. The zutul puk (miracle cave) that gives the monastery its name is at the back of the main hall. As the story goes, Milarepa and Naro Bönchung were looking for shelter from the rain. They decided to build a cave together, but Milarepa put the roof in place without waiting for Naro Bönchung to make the walls (thus once again showing the supremacy of Buddhism). Milarepa then made a couple of adjustments to the cave, which left a headprint and a handprint that can both still be seen today, alongside the stone walking stick of Milarepa. A cabinet to the side holds the stone hoofprint of King Gesar of Ling’s horse. Look also for the statue of Achi, the main protector of the Kagyud Drigung school to which the monastery belongs. A short but pleasant kora path encircles the outside of the monastery.

The best place to stay is the Zutul-puk Monastery Guesthouse, with five-bed rooms set around a warm greenhouse-style solarium. Other places include the simple prefab Gǎngdǐsī Tuánjié Zōnghé Bīnguǎn, which boasts good mattresses. A large new government guesthouse is under construction.

It’s less than three hours from here to Darchen, so some groups opt to push on and finish the trek in two days.

MILAREPA VERSUS NARO BöNCHUNG

All around Mt Kailash there are signs of a legendary contest for control that involved Milarepa, the Buddhist poet-saint, and Naro Bönchung, the Bön master. According to the Buddhists, Milarepa was the victor in all the various challenges, but despite this Naro Bönchung still argued for a final, winner-takes-all duel: a straightforward race to the top of the mountain.

Mounting his magic drum, Naro Bönchung immediately set out to fly to the summit. Unperturbed by the progress made by his rival, Milarepa rose from his bed at dawn and was carried by a ray of light directly to the summit. Shocked by this feat, Naro Bönchung tumbled off his drum, which skittered down the south face of the mountain, gouging the long slash marking Mt Kailash to this day. Gracious in victory, Milarepa decreed that Bön followers could continue to make their customary anticlockwise circuits of Mt Kailash, and awarded them Bönri as their own holy mountain.

Stage 3: Zutul-puk Monastery to Darchen

3 HOURS / 14KM / 150M DESCENT

From the monastery the trail follows the river closely for an hour or so, then climbs above the river and enters the striking Gold and Red Cliffs, a narrow canyon whose walls are stained purple, cobalt and rust. Just before here are several natural rock footprints at the Kandrö Tora, or Place of the Dancing Dakinis.

When the canyon narrows, look for holes gouged into the cliff walls. These are not natural but were made by pilgrims looking for holy stones. Also look for prayer flags lavishly strung across the river, and in the far distance the blue waters of the lake Rakshas Tal (Langa-tso in Tibetan).

Where the trail emerges onto the Barkha plain, close to the fourth prostration point (4700m) at Dzongdoe, Gurla Mandata is again visible in the distance. A well-placed teahouse allows you one last chance to savour the scene. It’s now an easy one-hour walk back to Darchen along a dirt road. While this is not a very scenic stretch of the kora, the steady ground below does allow you to drift off and reflect on the past three days.

THE FACES & RIVERS OF MT KAILASH

On a mystical level, Tibetans identify Mt Kailash with the mythical world mountain known as Meru, which reaches from the lowest hell to the highest heaven. According to ancient tradition, four rivers flow down the flanks of Kailash. While no major river really issues from this mountain, four do begin within just 100km of it.

Direction	Face	Mythical River	Real River
south	lapis lazuli	Mabja Kambab (Peacock Fountain)	Karnali
west	ruby	Langchen Kambab (Elephant Fountain)	Sutlej
north	gold	Sengge Kambab (Lion Fountain)	Indus
east	crystal	Tamchog Kambab (Horse Fountain)	Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra)

MORE TREKS

Lake Manasarovar Kora

Although there is now a dirt road all the way around Lake Manasarovar (4575m), this is still a very lovely walk. Fortunately, traffic is very light and the road can be avoided for some of the mostly level 110km route. Lake Manasarovar reflects the most lucid shades of blue imaginable. It represents the female or wisdom aspect of enlightenment and is a symbol of good fortune and fertility, explaining why Tibetans are always very eager to circumambulate it. The five Buddhist monasteries around the lake add an extra cultural dimension. Horses and guides (both cost at least ¥180 per day) can be hired in Hor Qu, the town on the northeastern side of the lake, and at Chiu Monastery.

Due to the elevation (averaging 4600m) this is a moderately difficult trek. May, June and September are the best months for the four- or five-day trek; July and August are also good, save for the hordes of gnats that infest the shores. The lake is generally still frozen in April but this can be a lovely time to walk if you are prepared for the cold. You should be prepared for any kind of weather at any time.

There is simple accommodation at Chiu and at monastery guesthouses at Langbona, Seralung and Trugo Monasteries, so you could technically make the walk without a tent or stove, though you would miss the pleasure of camping in your own private corner of the lake.

The best place to start the walk is at Chiu Monastery on the northwest corner of the lake. Go in either a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction, depending on whether you more closely relate to the Buddhists and Hindus or the Bönpos. If walking in a clockwise direction, you will reach Langbona Monastery in about four hours. From Langbona, the pilgrims trail cuts inland to avoid lagoons that form along the north shore of Manasarovar. Look for cairns, prayer flags and other signs of pilgrim activity that herald the way. Do not make the mistake of hugging the lakeshore unless you are up for an icy-cold swim or have a raft in tow. It’s about four hours from Langbona to Hor Qu town, which has hotel accommodation.

Seralung Monastery, on the east side of Lake Manasarovar, is approximately three hours beyond Hor Qu and a good place to stay and experience Tibetan religious life. Three hours’ walk (15km) from Seralung is a pair of teahouses, 2km apart, where you can get a reviving tea and bowl of noodles. The ruins of Yerngo Monastery are a further 4km away.

Four or five hours’ walk from Seralung brings you to Trugo Monastery on the southern flank of the lake. Accommodation is available at the monastery guesthouse and also at a new guesthouse built to accommodate the large numbers of Indian pilgrims who drive around the lake in July and August. You can make it back to Chiu Monastery via Gossul Monastery in nine to 10 hours of walking from Trugo Monastery. On either side of Gossul Monastery are caves where one can shelter and get a feel for the meditator’s way of life that once ruled in Tibet.

Everest Advance Base Camps

Walking in the shadow of iconic Mt Everest is mentally exhilarating and physically challenging. By following in the footsteps of great explorers one also gets a feeling for the history of the region. Underlying this more recent history is the mountain’s primordial aspect, a holy land sheltering the powerful long-life goddess, Miyo Langsangma. Now that the track to Tingri has become a major traffic artery, the focus of trekking in the region has switched to the advance base camps of Mt Everest.

The trekking season in the Everest region extends from April to late October. The trek up from Everest Base Camp to more advanced camps at the foot of the mountain requires much time for acclimatisation. This is a very difficult high-elevation region with altitudes ranging between 5400m and 6400m. Subfreezing temperatures occur all year round in this rarified world of ice and hoar.

For properly prepared groups, with the right permits from Lhasa, it’s possible to trek beyond Base Camp as far as Camp III. Including time for acclimatising, you would need to allow at least one week for this trek. The route skirts Rongphu Glacier until Camp I and then meets East Rongphu Glacier at Camp II. This glacier must be crossed in order to reach Camp III (6340m). Those reaching Camp III stand before the north face of Mt Everest, a close encounter between the stupendous and the seemingly insignificant. For detailed information on reaching the advanced base camps, see Gary McCue’s Trekking in Tibet.

Everest East Face

Following a river conduit breaching the Himalaya, this trek leads to the spectacular forested east flank of Mt Everest. Small lakes and fantastic camping in alpine meadows make this the best trek in the Everest region. Budget at least 10 days for the trek.

The first step is to drive to Kharta, with its alpine hamlets, some 90km from Shegar on the Friendship Hwy. There are two main passes accessing the east or Kangshung side of Everest. Most groups cross from the Kharta to the Karma valley via Lhundrubling over the Shao-la (5030m). The route then heads up the Karma valley to Doksum, Pethang Meadow and Khangsung Valley Base Camp, offering fabulous views of Everest, Lhotse and the huge Kangchung glacier, before returning over the Langma-la (5330m). The valley was explored by the 1921 Mt Everest reconnaissance expedition, of whom George Mallory was a member.

For detailed information, see Trekking in Tibet, by Gary McCue.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

NYENCHEN TANGLHA TRAVERSE

Rarely travelled even among trekkers in Tibet, a three-day traverse of the Nyenchen Tanglha range near Nam-tso lake is logistically and physically challenging. Most tour agencies have no experience with it, so shop around and confirm the precise details if this is high on your list of priorities in Tibet.

This is a fabulous trek for those who want to see the ecological mosaic of northern Tibet in all its splendour. Close encounters with the drokpa, the seminomadic shepherds of the region with their ancient customs and traditions, enliven the trail. Herds of blue sheep live in the crags, and in the woodlands the endangered musk deer makes its home.

The trek begins at Kyang-rag Monastery just off the main road to the Nam-tso, 7km beyond the Damxung–Lhasa Hwy turn-off. The trail cuts across the mighty Nyenchen Tanglha range and heads directly for Tashi Dor, the celebrated headland on the southeast shore of Nam-tso.

The route leaves the Damxung Valley and wends its way through a rocky defile, the gateway to a high-elevation forest in which dwarf willow and rhododendron are dominant species. A number of stream crossings await you. A tundra-filled upper valley gradually climbs to the Kyang-la (Onager pass), followed by a steep descent onto the Changtang plains. Fantastic views of sparkling Nam-tso and Tashi Dor are visible from many vantage points on the trail, and colourful drokpa camps dot the way.

The best time to make the Nyenchen Tanglha traverse is from May to October. A winter crossing is also sometimes possible but don’t attempt one unless you have the green light from local residents. This is a very high elevation trek with a 5350m pass and minimum elevations of 4320m, so factor in plenty of time for acclimatising. It’s prudent to spend two nights in Damxung before setting out. You will have to be fully equipped with a tent and a stove and enough food to reach Tashi Dor, three days away. Temperatures regularly dip below freezing, even in summer, and gale force winds are common.

Horses and guides should be available in the villages near the trailhead for ¥150 to ¥200 apiece per day. In June when locals are out collecting caterpillar fungus, horses may be hard to get. If you’re not successful in the nearby villages of Nakya or Baga Ara, try Nya Do, Largen Do or Tren Do, which are a little further afield but larger in size.

Tibetan Treks

Tibetan Treks

Why Go?

When to Trek

Best Long Trek

Best Short Trek

Best Cultural Trek

Best Trek to Spot Wildlife

PLANNING YOUR TREK

What to Bring

Clothing & Footwear

Equipment

TREKKING DISCLAIMER

Maps

Trekking Agencies

HEALTHY TREKKING

Lhasa Agencies

SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR WALKING

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Rubbish

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Good Trekking Partnerships

Wildlife Conservation

Camping

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ON THE TREK

Guides & Pack Animals

Food

Drink

SOCIAL TREKKING

TREKKING ROUTES

Ganden to Samye

GANDEN TO SAMYE AT A GLANCE

PASS HEIGHTS

Tsurphu to Dorje Ling

TSURPHU TO DORJE LING AT A GLANCE

TREKKING TIBETAN STYLE

Shalu to Ngor

SHALU TO NGOR AT A GLANCE

Mt Kailash Kora

MT KAILASH KORA AT A GLANCE

ESSENTIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR WALKING AROUND MT KAILASH

MILAREPA VERSUS NARO BöNCHUNG

THE FACES & RIVERS OF MT KAILASH

MORE TREKS

Lake Manasarovar Kora

Everest Advance Base Camps

Everest East Face

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

NYENCHEN TANGLHA TRAVERSE