This chapter somehow wrote itself under the cooked vegetable umbrella, which has I think, on reflection, something to do with unexpected contrasts. Roast hot lettuce, chilled charred beetroot and al dente sauced green beans all pique the gastronomic curiosity.

Several composed salads multitask as a light or main meal in themselves, others form part of the salad table and several more offer interesting side accompaniments to a hot main menu.

I also really enjoy the cooking challenge of preserving the taste and texture of green vegetables by presenting them on the cusp between al dente triumph and mushy disaster!

MUSHROOM, BUTTER BEAN & SEED SALAD

Serves 4–6 | Prep 15 minutes | Cook 20 minutes

Dairy free | Gluten free | Vegan

This cooked salad is almost a meal in itself, tasty and filling with scope for mushroom experimentation. If you have been foraging in the autumn woods, use your mushroom stash in this recipe. If you prefer a raw salad, marinate the mushrooms with all the liquid ingredients for an hour.

4 tbsp olive, sunflower or raw coconut oil

450g/1lb/6½ cups chestnut (cremini) mushrooms, wiped and sliced

60g/2½oz/scant 1 cup shiitake mushrooms, wiped and finely chopped

225g/8oz/1¾ cups courgettes (zucchini), cut into matchsticks

1 tsp finely chopped tarragon leaves, or
½ tsp dried

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tbsp ground coriander

freshly grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

4 tbsp pumpkin or sunflower seeds

4 tbsp tamari

1 tbsp tarragon vinegar

300g/10oz/2 cups canned butter beans, drained and rinsed

2 tbsp chopped chives

3–4 tbsp hazelnut and flaxseed oils mixed together, to taste

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a wok over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Toss in all the mushrooms and stir-fry for about 8 minutes until they are browned. Transfer to a bowl.
Heat the remaining oil. Add the courgettes (zucchini) and tarragon and stir-fry for 6 minutes, or until barely tender. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the ground coriander and lemon zest and continue stir-frying for 1 minute. Add to the mushrooms, then wipe the wok.
Re-heat the wok. Sprinkle in the seeds and dry-fry over a medium heat, stirring constantly, for about 4 minutes, or until they begin to colour.
Immediately splash in the tamari, vinegar and lemon juice and continue to stir until the liquid evaporates, then tip the seed mix over the courgettes.
Mix the beans into the bowl with the chives, and season to taste. Toss the salad with the hazelnut and flaxseed oils and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

BEETROOT, KOHLRABI & POTATO SALAD

Serves 10–12 | Prep 25 minutes, plus up to 24 hours chilling | Cook 20 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan option

This is a fine-tasting, pink and chunky salad for a crowd, with kohlrabi giving an unexpected juicy bite. The colours of the salad intensify as the salad chills, which is what makes it an ideal party salad. Summer to early autumn is the time to catch these vegetables in their prime.

750g/1lb 10oz/5½ cups raw beetroot (beets), peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks

750g/1lb 10oz/5½ cups kohlrabi or broccoli stalks, peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks

750g/1lb 10oz/5 cups new potatoes, scrubbed and cut into bite-sized chunks

3 tbsp fruity olive oil

1 red onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 tbsp chopped chives or spring onions (scallions)

2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

6–8 tbsp mayonnaise

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

Bring 2 large saucepans of salted water to the boil. Cook the beetroot (beets) and kohlrabi in one for 20–30 minutes until they are both tender.
Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in the other pan for 15–20 minutes until they are tender. Test all the vegetables near the end of their cooking time with the tip of a knife so they do not over-cook.
Drain the vegetables and place in a large bowl. While they are still warm, toss them with the olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and 5 grinds of black pepper, stirring to coat. Leave them to cool, covered with a towel.
Meanwhile, blitz the onion, garlic, chives and parsley in a food processor. Stir this mixture into the mayonnaise and season to taste, then toss with the vegetables. The salad is ready to serve, but best if chilled for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Cook’s note:

If you keep the kohlrabi in the fridge for any length of time, remove the leaves as they suck moisture from the root. The leaves can be used in the same way as spinach in other dishes.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the egg mayonnaise with vegan mayonnaise.

ROASTED VEGETABLE & QUINOA SALAD

Serves 4–8 | Prep 25 minutes, plus making the spice mix (optional) | Cook 45 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan option

This is a modern classic for a very good reason – quinoa is wonderfully nutritious, especially when combined with such tasty companions. I like this for packed lunches, and it is always a welcome offering at parties. This serves four as a main meal or eight as a first course.

2 large red onions, peeled and chopped

2 red (bell) peppers, de-seeded and cut into 4cm/1½in pieces

280g/10oz/2¼ cups courgettes (zucchini), cut into 4cm/1½in dice

280g/10oz/2 cups sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm/1½in dice

280g/10oz/2½ cups butternut squash, skin on, de-seeded and cut into 4cm/1½in dice

8 unpeeled garlic cloves

2 tbsp olive, sunflower or flaxseed oil

2 tbsp tamari or liquid aminos

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp sea salt

1 tsp sugar or agave syrup

a small pinch of Piri-piri Spice Mix or chilli flakes

1 tbsp olive or flaxseed oil

280g/10oz/1½ cups quinoa, rinsed and drained well, then rubbed to remove the coating

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups vegetable stock

1 tsp chopped rosemary leaves, or ½ tsp dried

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

For the dressing:

6 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp flaxseed oil

2 tbsp pomegranate molasses

2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp roughly chopped shallots

2 tbsp white or dark balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 tbsp capers, rinsed

To serve:

mixed salad leaves and flowers, such as comfrey, marigold, nasturtium and rose

450g/1lb/3 cups aged feta, drained and crumbled

10 purple or green basil leaves, torn

20 cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted and ground (use a coffee grinder)

chopped chives

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7.
Put all the vegetables and the garlic into a roasting tin (roasting pan) lined with a silicone mat.
Add 2 tbsp of the oil, the tamari and vinegar and sprinkle with the salt, sugar and Piri-piri, then toss well to coat.
Roast the vegetables for 12 minutes, then remove the garlic, which should be soft. Turn the vegetables over and roast for a further 10–15 minutes until they are all tender.
When the garlic is cool enough to handle, pop the cloves out of their skins.
Meanwhile, blitz the garlic in a blender or food processor with all the dressing ingredients and seasoning to taste, but remember the capers are salty. Coat the vegetables with a couple tbsp dressing while they are still hot, then leave them to cool.
Heat the remaining oil in a saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the quinoa and toast, stirring, until it is golden. Pour in the stock, rosemary and pepper to taste and bring to a rolling boil.

Turn the heat to the lowest setting and cook, with the lid ajar, for 15 minutes, or until the quinoa is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. Cover tightly and leave for 5 minutes. Fluff up with a fork and allow to cool.

To assemble, arrange the leaves around the border of a serving platter or on individual plates. Gently fork the feta, if using, into the cooled quinoa. Add the cherry tomatoes and most of the torn basil, and season with pepper.

Spoon the quinoa into the middle of the dish and arrange the roasted vegetables on top. Scatter with the remaining basil, sesame seeds and some chopped chives. Drizzle with more dressing and serve the remainder on the side in a small jug.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the feta with feta-style vegan cheese.

SEARED CHICORY & ORANGE SALAD

Serves 6 | Prep 30 minutes | Cook 15 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut-free option | Vegan option

I love cooked salads, especially in the winter. This one will enliven your palate, the charred bitter juiciness wooed by a nutty honeyed dressing, slaked with fresh goat’s cheese. Even if you can’t bear bitter flavours, I really do encourage you to try it at least once – or use bok choy and romaine lettuce instead.

4 navel or blood oranges

2 red onions, cut into 1cm/½in slices

3 chicory (Belgian endive), halved lengthways

3 Treviso radicchio, halved lengthways

seeds from 1 pomegranate

4 tbsp pecans halves, toasted

225g/8oz soft goat’s cheese or dolcelatte

2 tbsp finely chopped chives

For the dressing:

6 tbsp hazelnut or walnut oil

2 tbsp sherry or raspberry vinegar

1 tbsp manuka honey

1 tbsp pomegranate molasses or maple syrup

1 tsp wholegrain mustard

1 tsp sea salt

6 grinds of black pepper

a pinch of smoked paprika

a dash of Angostura bitters (optional)

Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil.

While the water is coming up to the boil, zest the orange peel into very fine shreds. Plunge the shreds into the boiling water, then almost immediately drain and refresh them under cold water. Pat them dry and set aside.

Using a small serrated knife, slice the ends off the zested oranges. Carefully cut away all the pith, so you end up with skinless, pithless oranges. If you don’t remove all the pith the oranges will taste bitter. Next, carefully remove the segments and set them aside.

Squeeze the juice from the membranes into a non-metallic bowl. Whisk all the dressing ingredients, including the bitters, if using, into the juice and season to taste, then set aside.

Heat a ridged, cast-iron griddle pan until it is very hot. Sear the onion slices for 2 minutes on each side, or until lightly charred and softened, then set aside.

Brush the endive and radicchio halves with the dressing and char-grill, cut-side down first, for 3–4 minutes each side until lightly charred and softened.

While the endive and radicchio are still hot, arrange the leaves on a platter or individual plates and add the orange segments and pomegranate seeds. Sprinkle with the nuts, dollops of cheese, chives and orange zests, then drizzle with the remaining dressing.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the cheese with herbed vegan cream cheese or vegan blue cheese.

Nut-free option

Use olive oil to replace the nut oil, and use sesame seeds instead of pecans.

WARM RUDDY ROASTED BEETROOT SALAD

Serves 6–8 | Prep 40 minutes, including cooking the spinach | Cook 1 hour

Dairy-free option | Gluten-free option | Nut-free option | Vegan option

This is a special, elegant side dish or first course, and you can enjoy it cold in hotter weather. It’s crunchy, soft, fruity, sweet and sour, all offset by dabs of garlic-scented cheese... yummy. I do enjoy roasting the beetroots over an open fire at least once every winter, especially with friends.

1kg/2lb 4oz beetroot (beets), preferably large and the same size, trimmed with leaves reserved

1 tbsp walnut oil, lightly seasoned

115g/4oz/2 cups beet greens or fresh spinach

500g/1lb 2oz shallots or small onions, peeled

4 unpeeled garlic cloves, plus 1 or 2 extra, peeled

4 tbsp olive, sunflower or flaxseed oil

2 tbsp raspberry or red wine vinegar

2 tbsp tamari

1 tsp pomegranate molasses, or 1 tsp sugar

1 bay leaf, scrunched

½ tsp fresh thyme leaves

½ tsp juniper berries

olive oil, for brushing

140g/5oz/heaped ½ cup soft sheep or goat’s cheese

3–4 slices sourdough bread

100g/3½oz/½ cup cooked, peeled chestnuts (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

To serve:

mixed bitter salad leaves

2 tbsp walnut oil

½ tbsp balsamic vinegar

seeds from 1 small pomegranate

chopped chives or spring onion (scallion) tops

½ tbsp sloe gin (optional)

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7.

Scrub the beetroot, trying not to break the skins, and leave them wet. Loosely wrap them individually in foil, place in a roasting tin (not too close together) and roast for 1 hour, or until tender – a skewer should pass through the centres without any resistance.

When they are cool enough to handle with a cloth, use the foil to rub off the skins. Cut each beetroot into thick wedges, brush with the seasoned walnut oil and keep warm by re-wrapping them in the foil.

Meanwhile, put the shallots and unpeeled garlic cloves in a roasting tin lined with a silicone mat. Sprinkle over the oil, vinegar, tamari and pomegranate molasses, then add the bay leaf, thyme and juniper berries, and mix well.

Put the pan in the oven while the beetroot are cooking and roast for 20–30 minutes, turning them once after 15 minutes. Remove the garlic at the turning stage and add the chestnuts to the onions, coating them with the juices. Return the pan to the oven until the onions are golden brown.

Rub the bread with the raw garlic cloves on one side, grind pepper over and brush both sides with olive oil. Place them in the oven and toast for 10–15 minutes until crisp.

Meanwhile, pop the roasted garlic cloves from their skins and blend with the cheese. Season with a little salt and pepper, then set aside until ready to serve. Remove the onions from the pan and discard the juniper berries and bay leaves.

If you have any reserved beetroot leaves, wash them in cold water, then dry well and shred, otherwise shred the spinach, and steam for 5 minutes.

To assemble, toss the salad leaves in a bowl with the oil, vinegar and seasoning until well coated. Arrange the leaves around the edges of a serving dish or on individual plates. Add the beetroot in overlapping slices and spoon the hot onions, chestnuts and spinach over the top.

Dice the toast and scatter over, then dot with dabs of the garlic cheese. Grind a little pepper over the cheese and finish with the pomegranate seeds and chives and a sprinkle of sloe gin, if using.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the cheese with herbed vegan cream cheese, and be sure to use bread made without milk or butter, and without eggs for the vegan option.

Gluten-free option

Use gluten-free bread.

Nut-free option

Replace the walnut oil with olive oil.

MIXED BEAN SALAD

Serves 6–8 | Prep 15 minutes, plus, ideally, at least 1 hour marinating | Cook 6 minutes

Dairy free | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan

This quick-cooked salad is filling as it is, but you can add boiled baby new potatoes or hard-boiled eggs, if you eat them, for a more substantial dish. It’s a welcome favourite at the stall, being generally less commercially available, and is ideal for a nutritious packed lunch.

225g/8oz/scant 1½ cups shelled broad (fava) or edamame beans, defrosted if frozen

225g/8oz/2 cups long green beans, defrosted if frozen, topped and tailed and cut into bite-sized pieces

225g/8oz/heaped 1 cup mixed canned pulses (legumes), such as chickpeas or kidney, pinto or soya beans, drained and rinsed

3 spring onions (scallions)

30g/1oz/½ cup torn basil leaves, or 1 tbsp vegan pesto sauce

30g/1oz/½ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

225g/8oz bottled char-grilled red (bell) peppers, drained and diced

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2½ tbsp fruity, cold-pressed olive oil

½ tbsp tamari

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the broad (fava) and green beans and boil for 5 minutes, uncovered, or until they are just tender. Begin the cooking time from the time the water returns to the boil.
Immediately drain the beans and plunge them into a bowl of iced water to stop the cooking and set the colours. Drain again, shaking off the excess water, then transfer to a large serving bowl.
Meanwhile, blitz the spring onions, basil and parsley in a blender or food processor until finely chopped.
Add the vinegar, oil and tamari and blitz again to complete the dressing.
Add the peppers and dressing to the ingredients in the bowl and thoroughly mix together. Season to taste. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Cook’s note:

The flavours improve if this salad is left to marinate for at least an hour, or overnight in the fridge, in a covered container.

STRING BEANS IN SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

Serves 6–8 | Prep 10 minutes, plus making the tomato sauce and at least 1 hour infusing | Cook 40 minutes

Dairy free | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan

This recipe is indispensible at the height of summer when it seems impossible to keep up with those summer gluts of tomatoes and beans. I keep a large bowl of this in the fridge for instant meals on the days when it’s so hot I would rather sit in the garden than be in the kitchen.

900g/2lb/heaped 8 cups string beans, topped and tailed with strings removed and thinly sliced

1 quantity Spicy Tomato Sauce, cold

1 tbsp chopped basil or parsley leaves, to garnish

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the beans and boil, uncovered, for 6–10 minutes until tender but still slightly crunchy.
Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with cold water. Drain the beans, then immediately put them into the water to stop the cooking and set the colour.
Drain them again, shaking off all the water, then put them in a bowl and mix with enough tomato sauce to coat.
Leave the salad to infuse for at least an hour. Garnish with the basil or parsley leaves just before serving.

string beans