Here is plentiful provender for posh picnics, packed lunches, fork buffets, light lunches or tasty supper dishes. You will discover I have plundered Middle Eastern street food, Mediterranean cuisine and the Swiss Alps, adding a few home-grown touches along the way!

These unusual savoury creations are a far cry from traditional, wheat-laden buffet fare. They also look heavenly, can be eaten hot or cold and pack a gastronomic punch wherever they go. Cook your way through a variety of succulent vegetable slices and stuffed polenta cakes, and discover the crispy, life-enhancing quinoa pizza and its creamy, sweet, avocado twin. Bring them to gatherings and watch your friends’ eyes light up!

I often serve these slices accompanied with a selection of salads, a spoonful of toasted tamari seeds and topped with an optional drizzle of Tahini-Lemon Dressing and a dab of chilli sauce.

BEETROOT, CARROT & POTATO RÖSTI

Serves 6–8 | Prep 30 minutes, plus draining the potatoes and leaving to rest before serving | Cook about 30 minutes

Dairy free | Gluten free | Nut-free option | Vegan

Rösti, a Swiss grated-potato favourite, is a versatile way to bring together new flavoursome combinations of root vegetables and potatoes. Here, my partner Brian and I have made it into one large, succulent cake, easy for slicing and serving, but the mixture also works well for individual rösti.

1kg/2lb 4oz/7 cups floury (Idaho or baking) potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated

500g/1lb 2oz/2¾ cups carrots, peeled and coarsely grated

1 large onion, finely chopped

500g/1lb 2oz/2¾ cups beetroot (beets), peeled and coarsely grated

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

4 tbsp olive oil or raw coconut oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

a selection of any herbs and seasonal flowers, to garnish (optional)

1 quantity Lemon-Tahini Dressing, to serve (optional)

Put the grated potatoes, carrots and onion in a colander and toss with 2 tsp sea salt, then leave to drain for 10–15 minutes. Leave the beetroot to drain in a separate colander. Squeeze the liquid out of the potatoes, carrots and onion until they are as dry as possible. Do not squeeze the beetroot.
Mix the squeezed vegetables and beetroot with the bouillon powder and plenty of pepper.
Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a heavy-based 23cm/9in frying pan, about 4cm/1½in deep and ideally with a tight-fitting lid, over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Swirl the pan so the oil coats the sides as well.
Place handfuls of the rösti mixture around the edge of the pan, then fill the centre, packing it in until the pan is full to the brim and the surface is flat.
Cover the pan and turn down the heat to very low. Use a diffuser if you are cooking over a gas flame. If your pan doesn’t have a lid, place a baking (cookie) sheet over the top.
Cook for 12 minutes, or until the colour begins to fade a little at the edges and the rösti begins to steam a little. Make sure the bottom doesn’t burn. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the rösti to rest for 10 minutes.

Use a spatula to loosen the edge, then, using a thick kitchen cloth to protect your hands, invert the pan onto a baking (cookie) sheet, so the rösti falls out. Detach any stuck pieces and smooth back into place.

Heat the remaining oil in the pan until it shimmers. Carefully, but firmly, slide the rösti back into the pan, cooked-side up.

Turn the heat down to medium, re-cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes. Turn heat down to low and finish cooking for another 10–12 minutes until the rösti is cooked through and golden brown on both sides. Allow it to rest for 6 minutes before turning out.

To serve, invert the rösti onto a warmed serving plate and garnish with herbs and flowers The rösti can be eaten cold with salads, and is especially good served with the Lemon-Tahini Dressing.

Cook’s notes:

Make thinner rösti by using more than one frying pan. You will need to use more oil and cook them for 8–10 minutes on each side. It isn’t necessary to leave the rösti to rest before turning them over to finish cooking or before serving.

With potatoes, I like any combination of swede (rutabaga), celeriac (celery root), parsnips, turnips and Jerusalem artichokes. Just make sure you maintain the same proportion of potatoes to other vegetables, otherwise your rösti can fall apart.

VARIATIONS

Nut-free option

Use olive oil instead of raw coconut oil for cooking.

FARINATA WITH SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

Serves 6–8 | Prep 45 minutes, including roasting the tomatoes and leaving the batter to stand | Cook 40 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut-free option | Vegan option

This is my amazing version of a thirteenth-century Genovese dish, which allegedly can be traced back to a storm-damaged cargo of chickpeas and olive oil. The resulting unappealing batter was served by the Genovese to their Pisa prisoners, who proudly refused to eat it and left it baking in the sun… the rest is food history.

175g/6oz cherry tomatoes, halved

6 tbsp olive oil or melted raw coconut oil

2 bay leaves, scrunched

175g/6oz/3 cups spinach, washed and chopped

175g/6oz/1½ cups red onions, sliced

175g/6oz/2 cups mixed (bell) peppers, de-seeded and sliced

175g/6oz/1½ cups courgettes (zucchini), sliced

3 tbsp freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

For the batter:

325g/11oz/3⅔ cups chickpea flour

2 garlic cloves, smashed

2 tsp sea salt

2 tbsp finely chopped mixed herbs

4 tbsp chopped spring onions (scallions)

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups beer, stout or water

6 tbsp olive oil

1–2 tsp hot paprika or harissa paste, to taste (optional)

For the Spicy Tomato Sauce:

3 tbsp olive or sunflower oil or raw coconut oil

2 carrots, scrubbed and finely chopped

2 celery sticks, finely chopped

2 onions, finely chopped

3 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves, scrunched

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 tsp chilli powder

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups tomato passata (tomato puree)

150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup dry red wine

2 tbsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

1½ tsp sea salt

1 tsp pomegranate molasses or sugar

2 tbsp tamari

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7. Rub the tomatoes with a little of the oil and season to taste. Place on a baking tray (baking sheet) lined with a silicone mat and roast for about 30 minutes until they are blackened around the edges. Remove from the oven.
Meanwhile, put all the ingredients for the batter, including the paprika, if using, into a blender or food processor and blend until a thick batter forms. Leave the batter to sit at room temperature until required.
To make the sauce, heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a saucepan over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Stir in the carrots, celery, onions, thyme and bay leaves and sweat (see opposite) until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the garlic and chilli powder and sweat for 1 more minute.
Pour in the remaining sauce ingredients and add pepper to taste. Cover and bring to the boil, then simmer, with the lid ajar, for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Adjust the seasoning.
Meanwhile, blanch the spinach in a pan of boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
Heat 4 tbsp oil in a 25cm/10in ovenproof, non-stick frying pan or a shallow, enamelled, cast-iron pan over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and sweat until they are soft and translucent. Add the (bell) peppers and cook for another 6 minutes. Stir in the courgettes (zucchini) and cook for a few more minutes until softened.
Raise the heat and throw in the blanched spinach. Stir and let the moisture evaporate, then add the cherry tomatoes.
Whisk the batter. Add 2 tbsp extra oil to the pan and heat until the oil sizzles. Pour the batter over the vegetables, which should be mostly covered, and smooth the top. Turn the heat down to very low and cook for about 15 minutes until the batter is set around the edge and towards the centre. Sprinkle the top with cheese, if using.
Place the frying pan in the middle of the oven and bake for 10–15 minutes until the centre is firm and the top is golden brown. Serve the farinata straight from the pan with the tomato sauce served separately.

Cook’s note: Sweating onions

Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and immediately turn the heat down to medium low. Cover the pan and cook for 6 minutes, uncovering and stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the cheese, if using, with the same quantity of grated vegan-style Parmesan cheese.

Nut-free option

Use olive oil instead of the coconut oil option.

POLENTA, FENNEL CAPONATA & LENTIL SLICE

Serves 8–10 | Prep 50 minutes | Cook 25 minutes

Dairy free | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan

This versatile polenta dish is made by filling a deep tart case with a flavoursome and nutritious fennel-flavoured caponata, the Sicilian version of ratatouille. Make sure the caponata vegetable dice are the same size so they cook in the same time. I add lentils to give the dish a nutritional boost.

For the Gluten-free Polenta Case (Shell):

225g/8oz bottled char-grilled (roasted bell) peppers, drained and finely chopped, with the liquid reserved

up to 600ml/1 pint/2½ cups Vegetable Bouillon or vegetable stock, boiling

100g/3½oz/⅔ cup fine polenta

1 tsp smoked paprika

3 spring onions (scallions)

2 tbsp each chopped basil and flat-leaf parsley leaves

115g/4oz/1 cup courgettes (zucchini), grated

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

For the Fennel Caponata:

5 tbsp olive oil

1 aubergine (eggplant), diced

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 large onion, diced

2 tsp turmeric

1 tsp chilli powder

leaves from 5 thyme or oregano sprigs

2 celery sticks, thinly sliced

2 carrots, scrubbed and diced

½ fennel bulb, finely chopped

115g/4oz/heaped ½ cup green lentils

300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups Vegetable Bouillon, plus extra, if needed

300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups tomato passata (tomato puree)

7 tbsp dry white wine

2 tsp pomegranate molasses or sugar

4 tsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

2 bay leaves, scrunched

For the topping:

1 garlic clove, crushed

300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups passata (tomato puree)

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

1 tsp sugar or pomegranate molasses

5 tbsp soya (soy) or rice cream

55g/2oz vegan Parmesan-style cheese

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

To make the polenta case (shell), add enough bouillon to make the pepper liquid up to 600ml/1pint/2½ cups. Pour into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the smoked paprika, 5grinds of black pepper and salt to taste.
Gradually add all the polenta in a steady stream and stir until the mixture comes back to the boil and thickens.
Turn the heat down to very low and use a diffuser if you are cooking over a gas flame. Cover the pan and simmer for 30–40 minutes, beating every 6 minutes or so, until the polenta forms a thick, smooth paste. (See Cook’s Note,)
Meanwhile, blitz the spring onions, basil and parsley in a food processor until they are finely chopped, then stir them into the polenta, along with the courgettes (zucchini) and (bell) peppers. Adjust the seasoning to taste.
Pour the polenta mixture into a 23cm/9in loose-bottomed tart tin (tart pan with removable bottom). Wait for 5 minutes, then push the polenta up the side to form a high crust. Do not worry about the crust sticking, because it will easily come out of the tin when it is cool. Set aside until ready to fill.

To make the caponata, heat 3 tbsp of the oil in a large saucepan until it is very hot. Throw in the aubergine (eggplant) and toss to coat with oil, then cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes, stirring twice, or until the aubergines are well coloured and soft. Transfer them to a bowl.

Add the remaining oil and heat until it shimmers. Add the garlic and cook briefly until it is pale golden. Add onion and sweat (page 83) until soft and translucent. Stir in the turmeric, chilli powder, herbs, celery, carrots and fennel. Cover and sweat for 5 more minutes.

Stir in the lentils. Add the bouillon, passata (tomato purée), wine, pomegranate molasses, tomato purée (tomato paste) and bay leaves. The liquid should just cover the lentils, so top up with stock, if necessary. Bring to the boil. Stir well, cover and simmer for 35 minutes, stirring occasionally, over a very low heat until the liquid is almost absorbed, but add a little more stock if the mixture becomes too dry. Spoon into the polenta shell and smooth the top.

Meanwhile, preheat the grill (broiler) to high. To make the topping, blitz all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and season.

Spoon the topping over the lentil mixture. Place the polenta case under the grill until small, blackened patches appear. Leave to cool slightly before unmoulding and serving. Serve warm or cold.

GIANT DOLMADA CAKE

Serves 8–10 | Prep 50 minutes, including roasting the cucumbers, plus making the sauce and 4 hours chilling

Cook 20 minutes | Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut-free option | Vegan option

This is my multicultural take on the Middle Eastern classic snack. I make a colourful cabbage case, layering it with a spiced Japanese paste, za’atar, risotto, chickpeas and piquant baked cucumber. This is then turned out like a cake, ready to slice. A giant roll (see Giant Dolmada Roll) also looks spectacular.

dolmada cake

2 cucumbers, de-seeded and cut into 1cm/½in pieces

3 tbsp olive oil or melted raw coconut oil

1 tbsp pomegranate molasses or sugar

1 tbsp tamari

5 or 6 whole leaves each from a green and a red cabbage, spines removed

55g/2oz/4 tbsp butter

3 large onions, thinly sliced

4 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves, scrunched

225g/8oz/heaped 1 cup arborio or other risotto rice

900ml/1½ pints/4 cups Vegetable Bouillon or vegetable stock, boiling

4 tsp za’atar

freshly grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

250g/9oz/1¼ cups canned chickpeas, drained

2 tbsp chopped mint leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

1 quantity Lemon-Tahini Dressing, to serve

sweetcorn kernels and sugar-snap peas, to garnish (optional)

For the Japanese paste:

3 tsp Japanese umeboshi paste

1 tsp harissa paste

1 tbsp miso paste

2 tbsp tamari sauce

freshly squeezed juice of 2 lemons

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7. Line a 23cm/9in springform tin, 4cm/1½in deep, with clingfilm (plastic wrap), making sure there is a generous overhang so you can wrap up the whole dish later.

Place the cucumbers on a baking tray (baking sheet), drizzle with 1 tbsp of the olive oil, the pomegranate molasses and tamari and mix together until coated. Roast for 40 minutes, turning the cucumber halfway through.

Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and fill a bowl with iced water.

Add the cabbage leaves to the boiling water and blanch for 4–6 minutes, or until tender but not soggy. Immediately drain, then transfer them into a bowl of iced water, then drain them on kitchen paper (paper towels).

Use the cabbage leaves to line the springform tin, making an attractive contrasting colour design, with a generous overhang. Set aside the remaining leaves.

Melt the remaining olive oil with the butter in a wide, heavy-based saucepan over a medium-high heat until the butter stops sizzling. Add the onions and immediately turn the heat to medium-low, cover and cook for 6 minutes, uncovering and stirring occasionally, or until they are soft and translucent. Add the thyme, bay leaves and lemon zest and cook for 1 minute.

Stir in rice, coating it thoroughly with the butter and oil. Continue stirring the rice until the edges have become translucent but the centres are still opaque. You should be able to smell the aroma of the toasting grains.

Add a ladleful of the bouillon and stir until it is absorbed. Repeat, then add the za’atar and the lemon juice.

Continue adding bouillon, a few tbsp at a time, until all the stock is used and the risotto is creamy. There should be a slight crunch left in the rice, so start testing after 12 minutes. The finished consistency should resemble thick porridge (oatmeal). Stir in the chickpeas and check the seasoning. Leave to cool a little.

Whisk all the ingredients for the paste together, then brush the surface of the leaf-lined tin with half the mixture. Fill the tin with half of the risotto mixture, then arrange the cucumbers over the top and scatter with the mint.

Top with the remaining risotto, smooth the surface and brush with the rest of the sauce. Cover with the remainder of the cabbage leaves and tuck them neatly down the inside of the tin. Cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill for at least 4 hours.

Unmould the stuffed leaves onto a plate and brush with olive oil. Cut into slices and serve with the Lemon-Tahini Dressing.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the butter with the same quantity of olive oil or raw coconut oil.

Nut-free option

Use olive oil to roast the cucumbers and cook the onions.

Giant Dolmada Roll

If you choose to make a roll instead of a cake, allow the risotto to cool completely before proceeding. To assemble as a roll, lay a kitchen towel on the work surface and cover it with clingfilm. Layer the leaves, Japanese paste and risotto as described in the method. Carefully use the kitchen towel to help you roll the dolmada over on itself from a long side. Tightly wrap in the clingfilm, twisting the ends until the roll is firmly enclosed. Chill for at least 4 hours. To serve, unwrap, brush with olive oil, slice and serve with the Lemon-Tahini Dressing.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH, APPLE & SMOKED ALMOND ROULADE

Serves 6–8 | Prep 1 hour, including roasting the vegetables, plus at least 1 hour chilling | Bake 15–20 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Lower-sugar option | Nut-free option

This is a special cold buffet or wedding dish. Don’t be put off by the length of preparation and cooking times, half of which is taken up by gentle cooking, so enjoy taking your time. A tasty, slow-cooked rice sauce replaces the gluten you would expect to find in a roulade.

sunflower oil, for brushing

6 eggs, separated

1 tbsp brown rice flour

1 tsp gluten-free baking powder

1 tsp smoked paprika, for dusting

For the Soubise Sauce:

55g/2oz/¼ cup arborio rice

55g/2oz/4 tbsp butter

500g/1lb 2oz/3 cups onions, sliced

1 tsp sea salt

2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf, scrunched

1 quantity Lemon-Tahini Dressing, to serve

For the filling:

450g/1lb/3 cups butternut squash, peeled and chopped

6 unpeeled garlic cloves

1 tsp harissa paste

2 tbsp olive or melted coconut oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

freshly grated zest and juice of 1 lime

1 tbsp tamari

1 tsp sugar or agave syrup

250g/9oz/1 cup cream cheese or soft goat’s cheese

½ tsp ground mace

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

4 tbsp unsweetened apple sauce

115g/4oz/¾ cup smoked almonds or toasted blanched hazelnuts

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. to season

Preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6. Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil.
To make the filling, put the squash and garlic cloves in a roasting tin (roasting pan) lined with a silicone mat. Whisk together the harissa paste, oil, vinegar, lime juice, tamari and sugar, then pour it over the squash and garlic, tossing to coat. Roast for 15 minutes. Remove the garlic and return the vegetables to the oven for 15 more minutes, or until the squash is soft. When the garlic is cool enough to handle, peel and set aside.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce, stir the rice into the saucepan of boiling water. Boil for 5 minutes from the time the water returns to the boil, then drain and set aside.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onions, coat with the butter and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the rice, thyme and bay leaf and fry, stirring, for 5 minutes.
Cover the pan, reduce the heat to very low and cook for 40 minutes, uncovering and stirring every 10 minutes, or until the rice is very tender but not browned. If it does begin to brown, add 1–2 tbsp water. Thoroughly purée the onion and rice mixture in a blender or food processor to obliterate the grains as much as possible, then transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

Meanwhile, line a 40×30cm/16×12in Swiss roll (jelly roll) tin with parchment paper, extending 4cm/1½in above the rim, then set aside.

Beat the egg whites (see Cook’s Note, left) with a pinch of salt with an electric mixer in a large, clean bowl until stiff peaks form.

Quickly beat the egg yolks, rice flour and baking powder into the cooled rice mixture. Stir 2 tbsp of egg whites into the rice mixture to lighten. Using a whisk, fold in the rest of the whites, making a figure-of-eight motion and rotating the bowl a quarter turn with each fold. Do not over-work or your roulade will be rubbery.

Pour the mixture (batter) into the prepared tin and smooth it into the corners. Bake for 20–25 minutes until the roulade is well risen and golden but not shrinking from the edges. Leave the roulade to cool in the tin on a wire rack.

Meanwhile, finish the filling. Beat the cheese, mace and bouillon powder in a large bowl. Purée the roasted butternut squash and garlic with the apple sauce and lime zest. Add the purée to the cheese mixture and beat together. Stir in the nuts and season to taste.

Invert the cooled roulade onto a sheet of greaseproof (waxed) paper and peel off the parchment. Cover with the filling, spreading it right to the edges. Use the paper to help roll up the roulade from a long side. Don’t worry if it cracks. Trim the ends. Twist the ends of the paper to secure, then chill for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Dust the top with smoked paprika, slice with a serrated knife and serve with a jug of Lemon-Tahini Dressing.

Cook’s note: Beating egg whites

The wonderful light texture of savoury and sweet roulades and so many other baked goods comes from beating the egg whites properly to incorporate as much air as possible. Make sure you use a clean, dry bowl and that the beaters are clean and dry, too. This is especially important if you have just beaten egg yolks or other ingredients. If you leave any trace of yolk in the egg whites they will fail to increase in volume. To avoid this, break each white into a cup before adding it to the rest of the whites, so you can isolate accidents without contaminating the rest.

Beat egg whites with an electric mixer on a slow speed until they are frothy. Increase the speed to medium and continue beating until the volume quadruples. Increase the speed to high and continue beating until glossy, stiff peaks form.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the butter in the sauce with the same quantity of olive oil or raw coconut oil. Replace the cream cheese with the same quantity of vegan herbed cream cheese.

Lower-sugar option

Replace the sugar when you roast the squash with the same quantity of xylitol.

Nut-free option

Replace the smoked almonds with the same quantity of tamari-roasted mixed seeds. Do not use the coconut oil option for roasting the vegetables.

CHAR-GRILLED PEPPER POLENTA CAKE WITH TOMATO & OLIVE TAPENADE

Serves 6–8 | Prep 30 minutes, including optional char-grilling peppers, plus making the onion marmalade and 1 hour setting

Cook 30 minutes | Dairy free | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan

This savoury cake was inspired by griddled Italian polenta slabs that are often served bubbling with Gorgonzola cheese. There are endless imaginative variations using chopped herbs, roasted or puréed vegetables, seeds and assorted cheeses. Just make sure you add strong flavours and interesting textural layers to complement the bland polenta.

2.4 litres/4 pints/10⅔ cups Vegetable Bouillon or vegetable stock, boiling

400g/14oz/2½ cups fine polenta

1 quantity Red Onion Marmalade (Roasted Pepper & Goat’s Cheese Quiche)

225g/8oz/2½ cups red or yellow (bell) peppers, quartered, de-seeded and char-grilled (page 137), or use bottled char-grilled peppers, drained and sliced

5 tbsp finely chopped herbs, such as basil, chives and flat-leaf parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped chives, herb sprigs and seasonal flowers, to garnish

sweetcorn kernels and sugar-snap peas (snow peas), to serve (optional)

For the Tomato & Olive Tapenade:

225g/8oz/1⅔ cups pitted black olives

115g/4oz sun-dried tomatoes soaked in olive oil, drained

2 garlic cloves, peeled

2 spring onions (scallions), chopped

4 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp capers, rinsed

2 tsp Piri-piri Spice Mix, or to taste

For the topping:

200ml/7fl oz/¾ cup plus 2 tbsp tomato passata (tomato puree)

1 tbsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

2 tbsp rice or soya (soy) cream

1 tsp sugar or pomegranate molasses

Bring the stock and 1 tsp salt to the boil in a large saucepan. Add the polenta in a steady stream and stir until the mixture comes back to the boil and thickens. Turn down the heat to very low, and use a diffuser if you are cooking over a gas flame. Cover the pan and leave the polenta to cook for 30–40 minutes, uncovering and beating every 6 minutes or so, until it forms a smooth, thick paste. (See Cook’s Note, opposite.)
Place all the tapenade ingredients and 6 grinds of black pepper into a blender or food processor and blend until you have a smooth paste. Stir in the red onion marmalade and chill until required.
As soon as the polenta is ready, stir in the peppers and herbs. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Immediately pour the polenta into two 23cm/9in fluted or plain loose-bottomed tart tins (tart pans with removable bottoms), 4cm/1½in deep, and smooth the surface. Leave to cool for 1 hour, or until the polenta is set.
Meanwhile, mix all the topping ingredients, except the cream, together and season with 5 grinds of black pepper.

When the polenta has set, reheat the grill (broiler) to its highest setting. Spread the topping mixture over one of the polenta cakes. Drizzle the cream in concentric circles, then use a cocktail stick (toothpick) to drag through the circles to make a web effect.

Grill for 8–10 minutes until blackened patches begin to appear.

Immediately remove the tin from the grill, and allow the polenta cake to cool. Un-mould the plain cake and place it on a serving dish and spread with tapenade.

Remove the grilled cake from its tin and slide it off the metal base, which should come off easily. Place it on top, grilled side up. Garnish with herbs and flowers and serve with a sweetcorn and sugar-snap pea (snow pea) salad, if you like.

Cook’s note:

It might be considered by some sacrilegious, but my observation is that constant stirring of the polenta during cooking, come mamma, is not mandatory to ensure near-perfect results! Just stir until the mixture thickens, then leave covered, over a very low heat, beating every 6 minutes or so, for 30–40 minutes until a smooth, thick paste forms.

DOUBLE MAIZE BAKE WITH SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

Serves 6–8 | Prep 10 minutes, plus making the sauce | Cook 30–40 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan option

Here’s a quick, tasty, homely supper dish, especially good on chilly September evenings, when basil and fresh corn are still to be had from the land and the nights are beginning to draw in. Serve this with green beans straight from the garden and savour the last glowing embers of summer.

2 litres/3½ pints/9 cups Vegetable Bouillon or vegetable stock

350g/12oz/2 cups plus 2½ tbsp fine polenta

225g/8oz/1¼ cups sweetcorn kernels, defrosted if frozen

30g/1oz/2 tbsp butter, plus extra for greasing the dish

1 tbsp rubbed thyme leaves (see Cook’s Note,)

1 red onion, grated

55g/2oz/½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

30g/1oz/¼ cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 quantity Spicy Tomato Sauce, hot, to serve

green beans, to garnish (optional)

Bring the bouillon and 1 tsp salt to the boil in a large saucepan. Add the polenta in a steady stream and stir until the mixture comes back to the boil and thickens.
Turn down the heat to very low, and use a diffuser if you are cooking over a gas flame. Cover the pan and leave the polenta to cook for 30–40 minutes, uncovering and beating every 6 minutes or so, until it is a smooth, thick paste. (See Cook’s Note,)
Meanwhile, blitz the sweetcorn in a food processor or blender until very well chopped. Add the corn mixture, butter and thyme to the polenta and adjust the seasoning.
Preheat the grill (broiler) to high and butter a shallow flameproof serving dish. Pour the polenta into the dish, smooth the top with a wet metal spatula and top with the grated onion and the two cheeses.
Grill for about 6 minutes until the top is golden brown and bubbling. Serve with the hot sauce alongside and with green beans to garnish.

Cook’s notes:

For the best flavour, strip the thyme leaves from their twigs, then rub them briskly together between your thumb and fingers to release the fragrant esters.

For an authentic Italian style of service, try pouring the cooked polenta directly onto an oiled wooden board and top with the sauced vegetables. Everyone can plunge in and serve themselves!

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free and Vegan options

Replace the butter with the same quantity of olive oil or raw coconut oil. Replace the cheeses with the same quantities of vegan Parmesan-style cheese and vegan Cheddar-style cheese.

BAKED RICOTTA RING

Serves 6–8 | Prep 45 minutes | Bake 50 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut-free option | Vegan option

This simple upside-down dish is enjoyable to make and spectacular to serve! Here is a tomato and cheese mixture that is delicious served with a fresh tomato sauce. I like to include sautéed mushrooms sprinkled with tamari or an avocado salad in the centre. Try sheep or goat’s ricotta for a change of flavour.

20 cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tsp olive oil, plus extra for greasing the mould

1 tsp chopped rosemary leaves, or ½ tsp dried

½ tsp sugar

1kg/2lb 4oz/4 cups ricotta cheese or soft goat’s cheese

6 eggs

30g/1oz/½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

4 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped

2½ tbsp brown rice flour

½ tsp ground mace

225g/8oz/2 cups courgettes (zucchini), grated

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the base:

55g/2oz/4 tbsp butter

115g/4oz/heaped 1 cup dried gluten-free breadcrumbs

4 tbsp ground almonds

4 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tbsp toasted pine nuts, finely chopped

1 tbsp chopped thyme leaves, or ½ tsp dried

freshly grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

55g/2oz/½ cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7. Lightly grease a 23cm/9in ring mould and set aside.

Line a baking tray (baking sheet) with a silicone mat. Add the tomatoes, oil, rosemary, sugar and salt and pepper to taste and toss together. Roast for 20–30 minutes until they are juicy and blackened in places. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Lower the oven temperature to Fan 160°C/Fan 325°F/Gas 4.

Meanwhile, to make the base, melt the butter in a frying pan until the sizzling stops. Add the breadcrumbs and fry, stirring, for 6 minutes, or until they are golden brown and crisp. Add the ground almonds, spring onions, garlic, pine nuts, thyme and lemon zest and fry, stirring, for 5 more minutes until the crumbs are toasty. Add the lemon juice and continue cooking until the liquid evaporates. Season to taste and leave to cool.

Blitz the ricotta cheese, eggs, parsley, spring onions, rice flour and mace together until smooth. Pour into a bowl, stir in the courgettes and season to taste.

Arrange the tomatoes around the base of the mould, cut-side up. Pour in the cheese mixture and smooth the surface. Sprinkle the crumbs over the top, then sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese.

Place the mould on a baking (cookie) sheet and bake for 50 minutes, or until slightly puffy. Leave to stand for 5 minutes before un-moulding.

To serve, run a metal spatula around the inner and outer rims. Place your serving plate on top and invert the ricotta ring, giving a sharp shake. Lift off the mould. Serve warm or chilled and fill the centre with whatever you fancy. If you make the coulis (see Cook’s Note), serve it separately.

Cook’s note:

The ideal summer accompaniment is a fresh tomato and basil coulis. Simply core, skin and de-seed 4 large tomatoes. Put them in a food processor or blender with 6 tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar, 2 tbsp tamari, 1 tsp pomegranate molasses or a pinch of sugar and a handful of basil leaves and blitz. Season to taste. This is best made as close to serving as possible.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the butter in the base with the same quantity of raw coconut oil or olive oil. Replace the ricotta cheese with the same quantity of vegan herbed cream cheese and replace the Parmesan cheese in the base with vegan-style Parmesan cheese.

Nut-free option

Replace the ground almonds in the base with the same quantity of finely ground sunflower seeds. Replace the pine nuts with the same quantity pumpkin seeds.

Vegan option

Follow the dairy-free option. Omit the eggs and replace them with 55g/2oz/3½ tbsp light tahini, and 115g/4oz/½ cup soya (soy) yogurt.

VEGETABLE QUINOA PIZZA

Makes two 25cm/10in pizzas | Prep 20 minutes, plus at least 8 hours soaking | Bake 40 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Nut free | Vegan option

You might never eat a conventional wheat-based pizza again after you try this gluten-free version! The bases crisp up fantastically and can be used for both savoury and sweet pizzas. Remember to soak your quinoa for at least 8 hours. If you’re in a hurry, replace the tomato sauce with pesto sauce.

1 tbsp olive oil

400g/14oz/2⅓ cups quinoa, soaked for
8 hours in cold water to cover, then drained

1 tsp sea salt

1 tbsp chopped fresh basil, marjoram or oregano, or 1½ tsp dried or 1 tsp chopped rosemary

2 garlic cloves, smashed

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups water

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

sliced mozzarella cheese, ricotta or soft goat’s cheese, for topping

olive oil or truffle oil, or a mixture, for drizzling

For the Tomato Pizza Sauce:

2 tbsp olive oil

450g/1lb/2¾ cups onions, chopped

3 garlic cloves, smashed

3 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves, scrunched

2 tbsp chopped basil leaves

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups tomato passata (tomato puree)

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp tamari

1 tbsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

1 tsp sugar, pomegranate molasses or unsweetened apple juice concentrate

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

For the optional toppings:

artichoke hearts, fresh or bottled, char-grilled and sliced

aubergine (eggplant) slices, greased, char-grilled and seasoned

courgette strips, greased, char-grilled and seasoned

mushrooms, wiped, trimmed and sliced

red onions, sliced

mixed (bell) peppers, de-seeded and sliced

wild rocket (arugula)

To begin the sauce, heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and sweat (page 83) until they are soft and translucent. Add the garlic and fry for 2 more minutes.

Add the thyme, bay leaves, basil, passata (tomato puree) and remaining ingredients with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and bring to the boil.

Turn down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, with the lid slightly ajar. You should have a fragrant, thick sauce. Adjust the seasoning and set aside.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 7. Brush two 25cm/10in loose-bottomed cake tins or cast-iron ovenproof frying pans with the oil, remembering to coat the sides as well. Place the cake tins or frying pans in the oven for 10 minutes.

Rinse the quinoa in a metal sieve, rubbing to remove the bitter outer coating.

Transfer it to a food processor with the salt, herbs and garlic and purée, adding the water via the feed tube until you get a thick batter. Season to taste.

Remove the hot tins or frying pans from the oven and pour in the batter, smoothing the surface with a metal spatula. Return to the oven and bake for 30 minutes.

Remove the bases from the tins and transfer to a baking (cookie) sheet lined with a silicone mat. Spread with the sauce and toppings of your choice, then lightly drizzle with oil.

Sprinkle the pizzas with the cheese and return them to the oven for 10–12 minutes until crusty and golden.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the dairy cheese with vegan herbed cream cheese or vegan Parmesan-style cheese.

Vegan option

Use the dairy-free option. Do not use the truffle oil.

Sweet Quinoa Pizza

Add 1 tsp Madagascan vanilla extract and 2 tbsp maple syrup to the batter in step 6. Use melted raw coconut oil instead of olive oil or sunflower oil when brushing the cake tins or frying pans. After baking, remove from the oven and leave the bases to cool, then remove from the tins. Transfer to a baking (cookie) sheet lined with a silicone mat. Spread with a sweetened avocado and lime juice purée and top with pineapple or papaya chunks tossed with fresh lime juice, or use soft fruit slices. Sprinkle with icing (confectioners’) sugar or drizzle with sweet syrup, then place under a hot grill (broiler) until brown speckles appear. Serve with soya (soy) yogurt, or, for a non-vegan version, Greek yogurt, crème fraîche, sorbet or ice cream.