Pastry, Tarts, Quiches & Savoury Cheesecakes

One small step for the cook, yet a giant leap of culinary faith for others, is required to dispel the myth that you can’t make gluten-free pastry look and taste good.

The not-so-secret cypher of free-from pastry-making lies in the pages ahead, waiting for you to dabble, salivate and slurp your way to baking heaven. Classic recipes with exciting new twists line up to be visited at your leisure, including a cheesecake with dolcelatte and cucumber and the ravishing Butternut, Berry & Goat’s Cheesecake.

Jazz up jaded palates using herbed, nutty or cheesy quiche shells, pies or tarts filled with imaginative ingredients. Even leftover stir-fry succumbs deliciously well to the quiche treatment. Just one note of caution: make sure you carefully follow the blind-baking (prebaking) instructions to avoid a soggy base.

HOW TO MASTER PERFECT PASTRY

Delicious dry, crisp pastry provides the perfect base for the range of tarts, quiches and pies in this chapter. It’s quick and easy to make pastry in a food processor, but if you don’t have one, don’t worry – just use the technique described below. Legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier believed legerdemain, or ‘lightness of hand’, was a prerequisite for successful pastry-making. This will come with practice!

Making Pastry by Hand

Mix the flour(s) and salt in a large bowl. Cut in the fat(s) with a broad-bladed knife, then use your fingertips to rub in until you have a coarse breadcrumb consistency.
Slowly add the liquid and blend in, using the broad-bladed knife, until you have a loose ball.
Turn out the ball onto a floured surface and knead quickly. Flatten the pastry into a disc, wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or for the time specified in the recipe.

Cook’s note

If any of my pastries are chilled for 6 hours or longer, they should be removed from the fridge 30 minutes before rolling out.

Rolling Out Pastry

Use a lightly floured rolling pin to roll out the pastry (dough) on a lightly floured surface until it is 4mm/⅛in thick and slightly wider than the diameter of the tin you are using.
Keep an even thickness by using a well-floured surface and giving the pastry a quarter turn each time you roll it. If the pastry shows signs of sticking, use just enough extra flour to make rolling easy. Brush off any excess flour when you have finished rolling out.

Lining a Quiche or Tart Tin

Roll up the pastry over a lightly floured rolling pin and gently unroll it over the tin, easing the pastry onto the base and up the side. Take care not to stretch it. Press any overlapping pastry downwards to reinforce the thickness of the side. Do not trim off the overhang.
Prick the base all over with a fork. Cover and chill the pastry case (shell) for 15–30 minutes before filling and baking. This helps to prevent it shrinking in the oven.
Remove the pastry case from the fridge. If you are making a single-crust pie, boldly roll the rolling pin over the rim of the tin, creating a neat edge. Pinch the pastry all round the edge to make a slight rim.If you are making a two-crust pie, leave the excess pastry hanging over the edge until after the pie is filled.
When you have filled the case, brush the edge with beaten egg. Position the pastry lid (top crust), then crimp the 2 layers together to seal. Chill for 15–30 minutes, then cut off the excess pastry and bake.

Blind-baking a Pastry Case

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7. Line the tin as instructed in steps 1–3 Rolling Out Pastryon.
Cut a piece of parchment paper large enough to cover the inside of the pastry-lined tin and extend 5cm/2in above the rim. Add enough dried chickpeas or baking beans (pie weights) to fill the tin to the rim.
Place the tin on a baking (cookie) sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Turn the tin 180-degrees to ensure even colouring, then continue baking for a further 8–10 minutes, or until golden brown.
Take the pastry case (shell) out of oven and remove the paper and chickpeas together by lifting each corner of the paper. Return the tin to the oven for 5 minutes to dry out the pastry and until it turns golden brown. Either fill the pastry case immediately and continue with your recipe, or leave it in the tin set on a wire rack before using. (The chickpeas and paper can be put aside to use again.)

Pastry Know-how

During preparation

My bottom-line tips for perfect pastry are: use chilled fat; use minimum liquid; use a firm but light touch.
Be aware that the room temperature and absorbency of your flour will affect the amount of liquid you need. Always add the liquid slowly and stop when the crumbs form.
In hot weather, butter is more difficult to manage, so return it to the fridge if it becomes sticky.
For shortening, I use organic raw coconut oil, hard GMO-free margarine or non-hydrogenated white vegetable shortening.

Working with and baking pastry

If your pastry (dough) tears while you are lining a tart or quiche tin, use your fingers to patch the damaged area with a small piece of excess pastry. Fix by brushing the surface with beaten egg or water, and smooth the patch firmly into place.
If cracks appear in a pastry case (shell) during blind-baking (prebaking), repair them with leftover scraps of pastry fixed by brushing one surface with beaten egg or water.
I use chickpeas when blind-baking, but you can use any dried pulses (legumes), or you can buy specific ceramic baking beans (pie weights) from cookware suppliers. Both can be re-used indefinitely.
If your pastry is stuck to the base of the tin, use a long, sharp knife or metal spatula to ‘saw’ between the pastry and the tin.

Storing pastry for later use

Wrap any leftover pastry in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and freeze for up to 2 months. Defrost at room temperature before use.
Unbaked pastry cases (shells) can be wrapped in clingfilm and frozen for up to 2 months. They can then be blind-baked from frozen in an oven preheated to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6 for 8 minutes longer than specified in the recipe.

SPELT PASTRY

This is my all-purpose shortcrust pastry (piecrust dough). It is rich, light and tasty, and I use it to make pasties, pies, quiches and tarts. I use 30 per cent white spelt flour and 70 per cent wholegrain spelt flour for lightness, but you can use all wholegrain flour, if you’d rather.

280g/10oz/2¼ cups wholegrain spelt flour

85g/3oz/⅔ cup white spelt flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp sea salt

200g/7oz/¾ cup plus 2 tbsp butter, chilled and cut into 1cm/½in cubes

3 tbsp non-hydrogenated white vegetable shortening, chilled and cut into 1cm/½in cubes

1 egg, mixed with enough chilled water to make 90ml/3floz/6 tbsp

Whizz the flours and salt together in a food processor. Add the chilled butter and shortening, and pulse just until you have a fine breadcrumb consistency.
Gradually add the egg mixture through the feed tube, pulsing just until the pastry (dough) comes together. You might not need all the egg mixture. The exact amount of liquid will vary depending on the weather and the absorbency of the flours you have used. Take care not to overwork at this stage or the pastry will be tough.
Tip the pastry onto a lightly floured surface and knead quickly but thoroughly into a thick disc. Wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days.
If the pastry has chilled for more than 6 hours, remove it from the fridge 30 minutes before rolling out and using as specified in your recipe.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Or, you can make up the quantity of butter with a mixture of these fats.

Lower-sugar option

Replace the sugar with 7 tbsp xylitol.

Vegan option

Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Omit the eggs and use 90ml/3floz/6 tbsp chilled water instead.

Sweet Spelt Pastry

Omit the wholegrain spelt flour and use 380g/12½oz/2¾ cups all white spelt flour instead. Use chilled unsalted butter. Add 7 tbsp granulated sugar to the flour and salt in step 1 and beat the egg with 1½ tsp Madagascan vanilla extract and enough chilled water to make 90ml/3floz/6 tbsp liquid. Continue with the recipe above. When you’re ready to roll out the pastry, unwrap and knead it briefly on a well-floured surface until pliable. If the pastry becomes sticky, re-form it into a ball, re-wrap and refrigerate for 10 minutes, otherwise proceed with your recipe.

Dairy-free Sweet Spelt Pastry

Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Add 7 tbsp granulated sugar to the flour and salt in step 1 and beat the egg with 1½ tsp Madagascan vanilla extract and enough chilled water to make 90ml/3floz/6 tbsp liquid.

GLUTEN-FREE PASTRY

Nobody will guess this isn’t a wheat-based pastry, because the flavour and texture mimic that of a conventional shortcrust pastry. It is rich and crisp when baked, and very versatile. If it splits or cracks while being rolled out, just press it together and it re-seals itself!

85g/3oz/scant ¾ cup wholegrain buckwheat flour

85g/3oz/½ cup brown rice flour, plus extra for rolling out

85g/3oz/½ cup potato flour

85g/3oz/¾ cup maize flour (masa harina)

½ tsp sea salt

200g/7oz/¾ cup plus 2 tbsp butter, chilled and cut into 1cm/½in cubes

1 egg, beaten with enough chilled water to make 75ml/2½floz/5 tbsp, plus extra, if necessary

Whizz the flours and salt together in a food processor to mix. Add the chilled butter and pulse just until you have a fine breadcrumb consistency.
Gradually add the egg mixture through the feed tube, pulsing just until the pastry (dough) comes together. You might not need all the liquid. The exact amount of water will vary depending on the weather and the absorbency of the flours you have used.
Turn out onto a surface generously dusted with rice flour and knead quickly until smooth. Take care not to over-work at this stage or the pastry will be tough.
Wrap the pastry in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days.
If the pastry has chilled for more than 6 hours, remove it from the fridge 30 minutes before rolling out and using as specified in your recipe.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening instead.

Vegan option

Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening instead. Omit the egg and use 75ml/2½floz/5 tbsp chilled water instead.

Sweet Gluten-free Pastry

Add 7 tbsp granulated sugar to the flours and omit salt in step 1. Use chilled unsalted butter. Mix the egg with 1 tsp Madagascan vanilla extract and enough chilled water to make 75ml/2½floz/5 tbsp liquid.

Lower-sugar, Sweet, Gluten-free Pastry

Add 7 tbsp xylitol to the flours and salt in step 1. Use chilled unsalted butter. Mix the egg with 1 tsp Madagascan vanilla extract and enough chilled water to make 75ml/2½floz/5 tbsp liquid.

Vegan, Sweet Gluten-free Pastry

Add 7 tbsp granulated sugar to the flours and omit salt in step 1. Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening instead. Omit the egg and use 75ml/2½floz/5 tbsp chilled water instead.

Gluten-free Polenta Pastry

Good polenta makes wonderful gluten-free cases (shells) for tarts and quiches. Use 100g/3½oz/⅔ cup fine polenta, 600ml/1 pint/2½ cups boiling Vegetable Bouillon or stock and 1 tsp sea salt to make the polenta, following steps 1–2 in the Polenta, Fennel Caponata & Lentil Slice recipe. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7 and lightly grease a 20cm/8in loose-bottomed tart tin (tart pan with removable bottom), 4cm/1½in deep, with olive oil.

When the polenta has become a smooth, thick paste, stir in 2 tbsp finely chopped herbs and salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Pour the hot polenta into the tin and leave for 5 minutes. Use damp fingers to mould it up the side of the tin to make a case, then brush with olive oil. Bake for 20–30 minutes, or until it is golden and slightly crispy. If the side has shrunk a little, gently push it up while the polenta is still hot. Continue with your recipe immediately, or leave the polenta case to cool on a wire rack.

gluten-free pastry

GRUYÈRE, ALMOND & THYME PASTRY

Makes enough for one 23cm/9in Tatin or two 20cm/8in tarts | Prep 15 minutes, plus at least 2 hours chilling

Dairy-free option | Gluten-free option | Nut-free option | Vegan option

175g/6oz/1¼ cups plus 2 tbsp wholegrain spelt flour

115g/4oz/1¼ cups chickpea flour

115g/4oz/1 cup Gruyère cheese, grated

85g/3oz/6 tbsp butter, chilled and cut into 1cm/½in cubes

6 tbsp ground almonds

½ tsp sea salt

2 tsp prepared Dijon mustard or wasabi powder

2 eggs, beaten with enough chilled water to make 125ml/4fl oz/½ cup

leaves from 6 thyme sprigs

Put all the ingredients, except the egg mixture, mustard and thyme leaves, in a food processor and just pulse until you have a fine breadcrumb-like mixture. If you are using wasabi powder, add it in this step.
Add the thyme leaves and quickly whizz. Gradually add the egg mixture and mustard through the feed tube and pulse just until the pastry (dough) comes together and forms a ball.
Remove the dough from the food processor. Flatten it into a disc, wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before rolling out and using as instructed in your recipe.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option (Cheese, Almond & Thyme Pastry)

Omit the butter and use the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening instead. Replace the Gruyère cheese with the same quantity of grated vegan hard cheese or vegan Parmesan-style cheese.

Gluten-free option

Replace the wholegrain spelt flour with 175g/6oz/1 cup plus 1½ tbsp brown rice flour, and use brown rice flour for rolling out.

Nut-free option (Gruyère, Sunflower & Thyme Pastry)

Replace the ground almonds with the same quantity of finely ground sunflower seeds.

Vegan option (Cheese, Almond & Thyme Pastry)

Use 175g/6oz/1¼ cups plus 2 tbsp wholegrain spelt flour, or 175g/6oz/1 cup plus 1½ tbsp brown rice flour, along with the chickpea flour. Omit the butter and replace it with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Replace the Gruyère cheese with the same quantity of grated hard vegan cheese or vegan Parmesan-style cheese. Replace the eggs with 125ml/4fl oz/½ cup chilled water.

HAZELNUT PASTRY

Makes enough for one 23cm/9in Tatin, two 20cm/8in tarts or one 2-crust pie | Prep 15 minutes, plus at least 1 hour chilling

Dairy-free option | Gluten-free option | Lower-sugar option | Nut-free option | Vegan option

225g/8oz/1⅔ cups white spelt flour

115g/4oz/heaped ¾ cup toasted blanched hazelnuts, finely ground

6 tbsp granulated sugar

140g/5oz/¾ cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1cm/½in cubes

1 egg, beaten with 1 tsp Madagascan vanilla extract plus enough chilled water to make 55ml/2floz/4 tbsp

Whizz the flour, sugar and ground hazelnuts in a food processor. Add the butter and pulse just until a fine breadcrumb-like mixture forms.
Gradually dribble the egg mixture through the feed tube and pulse just until the pastry (dough) comes together.
Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and quickly knead. Form the pastry into a flattened ball and wrap in cling film (plastic wrap). Chill for at least 2 hours before rolling out and using as instructed in your recipe.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the butter with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening.

Gluten-free option

Replace the white spelt flour with 85g/3oz/½ cup brown rice flour, 85g/3oz/⅔ cup tapioca flour and 55g/2oz/1/3 cup potato flour, sifted together.

Lower-sugar option

Replace the sugar with 6 tbsp xylitol.

Nut-free option (Sesame Pastry)

Replace the ground hazelnuts with the same quantity of sesame seeds, finely ground.

Vegan option

Omit the butter and replace it with the same quantity of chilled raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Omit the egg and replace it with 1 tsp Madagascan vanilla extract mixed with enough chilled water to make 55ml/2fl oz/4 tbsp.

BEETROOT & BUTTERNUT TATIN

Serves 6–8 | Prep 20 minutes, plus making the pastry (dough) and at least 2 hours chilling | Bake 30–40 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten-free option | Nut-free option | Vegan option

This stunning savoury variation of the classic French apple tart glistens with ruby and amber translucent succulence on a rich cheese base. The pastry is thicker than usual so you get a good balance with the tender vegetables. I particularly like to serve this with Mixed Bean Salad.

6 large unpeeled garlic cloves

6 tbsp olive oil

4 tbsp balsamic or fruit vinegar

2 tbsp tamari

40g/1½ oz/3 tbsp butter or raw coconut oil

1½ tbsp dark brown sugar or pomegranate molasses

600g/1lb 5oz/4½ cups cooked beetroot (beets), peeled and cut into 1cm/½in slices, then quartered

600g/1lb 5oz/4¼ cups butternut squash, peeled, de-seeded and cut into 1cm/½in half-moon slices

1 quantity Gruyère, Almond & Thyme Pastry, prepared and chilled for at least 2 hours

white spelt flour, or flour of choice, for rolling out

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

If the pastry has chilled for 6 hours or longer, remove it from the fridge 30 minutes before rolling out. Preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6.
Toss the garlic with 1 tbsp of the olive oil and roast for 12 minutes, or until soft.
Leave the garlic to cool. Peel, then blend the garlic with 2 tbsp olive oil, the balsamic vinegar and tamari, and set aside.
Melt the butter and remaining olive oil with the sugar in a 23cm/9in Tatin tin or a heavy-based, deep ovenproof frying pan over a low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Remove the tin from the heat and arrange a pleasing pattern of beetroot (beets) and squash – this will form the top when the tart is turned out. Top with layers of the remaining vegetables, brushing each layer with the garlic mixture and seasoning to taste. The subsequent layers need not be so neat. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, roll out the pastry dough on a lightly floured surface until it is 1cm/½in thick and as wide as your tin. Remove the tin from the oven, then gently drape the pastry over the floured rolling pin, and unroll it over the hot tin. Loosely tuck the edge inside the rim of the tin.

Bake the tart for 30–40 minutes until golden brown and the vegetables are tender. Cover the top with foil if it browns too much.

Remove tin from the oven. Loosen the edge of the pastry with a rubber spatula, then using a thick oven cloth, invert the tart onto a warmed serving dish, giving it a sharp shake to dislodge. Re-arrange any stuck pieces of vegetable and serve hot or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the pastry with 1 quantity Dairy-free Cheese, Almond & Thyme Pastry. Use the raw coconut oil option.

Gluten-free option

Replace the pastry with 1 quantity Gluten-free Gruyère, Almond & Thyme Pastry and use brown rice flour when rolling it out.

Nut-free option

Replace the pastry with 1 quantity Gruyère, Sunflower & Thyme Pastry. Use butter and olive oil to dissolve the sugar.

Vegan option

Replace the pastry with 1 quantity Vegan Cheese, Almond & Thyme Pastry. Use the raw coconut oil option.

tatin

MUSHROOM, CHARD & CHEDDAR QUICHE

A well-executed quiche is a delight to all the senses and due homage should be paid to this culinary brainwave, which provides such a perfect container for nature’s bounty. Use this as a master recipe and you’ll be on your way to baking endless combinations. I never tire of creating new quiches.

30g/1oz/2 tbsp butter

2 tbsp olive, sunflower or raw coconut oil

225g/8oz/3⅓ cups chestnut (cremini) mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

225g/8oz/4 cups chard or spinach leaves, chopped and washed and squeezed dry

freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon, or 2 tbsp bottled juice

4 eggs

125ml/4fl oz/½ cup full-fat (whole) milk

6 tbsp single (light) cream

a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

one 20cm/8in blind-baked (prebaked) pastry case (shell), 4cm/1½in deep, made with ½ quantity Spelt Pastry

140g/5oz/1⅓ cups Cheddar or Gruyère cheese, grated

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

Preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6.
Melt half the butter and half the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and fry for about 8 minutes, turning them over occasionally, until they are well browned. Season to taste, then remove from the pan and set aside.
Add the remaining butter, oil and chard and stir-fry for a few minutes until the chard has wilted. Add the lemon juice and season to taste.
Blend together the eggs, milk, cream, nutmeg, ½ tsp salt and pepper to taste, then pour into a jug and set aside.
Place the pastry case (shell) in its tin on a baking (cookie) sheet. Spread the chard and mushrooms over the base. Fill the pastry case (shell) three-quarters full with the egg mixture. Sprinkle the cheese over the top.
Place the baking sheet in the oven and fill the pastry case to the brim with the remaining egg mixture.

Bake for 20–30 minutes until the centre is firm and the top is golden brown.

Allow the tart to cool slightly, then remove it from the tin. Use a long knife to slide it from the metal base onto a warmed serving plate. Serve warm.

Cook’s notes:

A good test to see if a quiche is baked through is to plunge a metal skewer into the centre and then pass it across your bottom lip, noting if the heat is evenly distributed. If not, put the quiche back in the oven for 5 minutes, then retest.

For all quiche fillings, I find organic eggs, as opposed to simply free range, have a superior flavour and richer colour.

Any dairy ingredients in all my quiche recipes can be replaced with an equal quantity of vegan options, such as silken tofu, vegan cream cheese beaten with 2 tbsp brown rice flour, rice or soya (soy) cream and almond, rice or soya (soy) milk.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Use ½ quantity Dairy-free Spelt Pastry to make the pastry case (shell). Replace the butter with an equal quantity raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Replace the milk with an equal quantity of rice or soya (soy) milk and the single cream with an equal quantity of rice or soya (soy) cream. Replace the cheese with an equal quantity of grated vegan hard cheese.

Gluten-free option

Use ½ quantity Gluten-free Pastry to make the pastry case (shell), or Gluten-free Polenta Pastry.

Vegan option

Use ½ quantity Vegan Gluten-free Pastry to make the pastry case (shell), or a Gluten-free Polenta Pastry Case, made with vegan Parmesan-style cheese and olive oil. Replace the butter with an equal quantity of raw coconut oil, hard margarine or white vegetable shortening. Replace the milk with an equal quantity of rice or soya (soy) milk and the single cream with an equal quantity of rice or soya (soy) cream. Omit the eggs and replace them with 225g/8oz/1 cup vegan cream cheese beaten with 2 tsp brown rice flour and 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or yeast flakes (nutritional yeast) until smooth. Replace the Cheddar cheese with an equal quantity of grated vegan hard cheese or vegan Parmesan-style cheese.

FENNEL & ADZUKI BEAN PIE

This is a chunky and nutritious addition to any buffet table. The braised beans are heartily satisfying without being at all stodgy. The pie makes an unusual picnic choice, and any leftovers will be devoured. Home-cooked beans are definitely best here, so remember to soak them the night before.

1 quantity Spelt Pastry, prepared and chilled for at least 2 hours

3 tbsp olive, sunflower or raw coconut oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 large carrots, scrubbed and diced

1 large fennel bulb, diced

1 bay leaf, scrunched

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups tomato passata (tomato puree)

150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup dry red wine

5 sun-dried tomatoes, soaked for at least 20 minutes, drained and chopped

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tbsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

350g/12oz/1½ cups cooked adzuki beans, drained and rinsed if canned

white spelt flour, for rolling out

2 egg yolks, beaten with 2 tsp olive oil

black onion seeds, to garnish

pink peppercorns, to garnish (optional)

2 large carrots, scrubbed and diced

1 large fennel bulb, diced

1 bay leaf, scrunched

500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups tomato passata (tomato puree)

150ml/5floz/⅔ cup dry red wine

5 sun-dried tomatoes, soaked for at least 20 minutes, drained and chopped

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tbsp tomato purée (tomato paste)

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

350g/12oz/1½ cups cooked adzuki beans, drained and rinsed if canned

white spelt flour, for rolling out

2 egg yolks, beaten with 2 tsp olive oil

black onion seeds, to garnish

pink peppercorns, to garnish (optional)

If the pastry has been chilled for 6 hours or longer, remove it from the fridge 30 minutes before rolling out.
Heat the oil in saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and sweat them (page 83) until they are translucent. Add the garlic and fry for 1 more minute.
Add the carrots, fennel and bay leaf, re-cover and fry for 6 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the passata (tomato puree), wine, tomatoes, paprika, tomato purée (tomato paste), bouillon powder and seasoning to taste. Bring to the boil, stirring.
Simmer, with the lid ajar, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The mixture should be fairly thick but not dry. Add more water, if necessary, or reduce by raising the heat and removing the lid.
Stir in the beans, then leave to cool.
Follow the instructions Rolling Out Pastry for rolling out two-thirds of the pastry. Line a 23cm/9in loose-bottomed tin (pan with removable bottom) with a rim and 4cm/1½in deep, leaving the excess pastry as overhang.

Roll out the remaining pastry until it is the size of the top of the quiche tin.

Spoon the cool bean mixture into the pastry case (shell). Brush the edge of the pastry with the egg mixture, then cover with the pastry lid (top crust) and crimp to seal, but leave the overhang. Place in the fridge for at least 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6. Remove the pie from the fridge. Trim the excess pastry. Brush the pastry lid with the egg mixture, then garnish with onion seeds and pink peppercorns. Cut a steam hole in the centre.

Bake for 40–50 minutes until golden brown. Cover with foil, if necessary, to prevent crust from burning. Leave to cool slightly, then remove the outer ring. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Use 1 quantity Dairy-free Spelt Pastry.

Gluten-free option

Use 1 quantity Gluten-free Pastry and roll it out with brown rice flour.

Nut-free option

Use butter in the pastry, and olive or sunflower oil in the main recipe.

Vegan option

Use 1 quantity Vegan Spelt Pastry and omit the eggs for glazing. Instead, brush the pie with 2 tsp olive oil beaten with 2 tsp rice or soya (soy) cream.

bean pie

HERBED POTATO PIE

Serves 6–8 | Prep 20 minutes, plus making the pastry (dough) and at least 2 hours chilling | Bake 1 hour

Dairy-free option | Gluten-free option | Nut free | Vegan option

This is a delicious creamy potato, herb and egg pastry-covered pie. It is the perfect vegetarian choice for a stylish picnic or a summer evening buffet, and will keep for up to 24 hours in the fridge, while the flavours develop. It is also very good eaten straight from the oven.

1 quantity Spelt Pastry, prepared and chilled for at least 2 hours

white spelt flour, for rolling out

400g/14oz/2⅔ cups waxy potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced

55g/2oz/4 tbsp butter, melted

1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tsp olive oil and
1 tsp water, for egg wash

1 tsp black onion seeds

225ml/8fl oz/1 cup single (light) cream

2 egg yolks

1 tbsp finely chopped basil leaves

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

If the pastry has been chilled for 6 hours or longer, remove it from the fridge 30 minutes before rolling out.
Follow the instruction Rolling Out Pastry for rolling out two-thirds the pastry. Line a 23cm/9in loose-bottomed tin (pan with removable bottom) with a rim and 4cm/1½in deep, with the pastry, leaving the overhang.
Roll out the remaining one-third of the pastry until it is the size of the top of the quiche tin.
Bring a medium pan of salted water to the boil and add the sliced potatoes. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and plunge them into cold water. Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper (paper towels).
Beat the cream with the eggs and season well with salt and pepper. Layer the potatoes to the top of the lined tin, brushing each layer with butter, salt, pepper and a sprinkling of herbs. Pour the egg mixture over the top.
Brush the pastry edge with the egg wash. Roll up the pastry lid (top crust) over a floured rolling pin and unroll it over the top of the pie. Crimp the edges to seal, but do not trim the overhang. Place in the fridge for at least 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6. Remove the pie from the fridge and cut off the excess pastry. Brush the pastry lid with the eggwash mixture, then scatter with the onion seeds. Cut a steam hole in the centre and insert a 2.5cm/1in-wide foil funnel.

Place the pie on a baking (cookie) sheet and bake for 50 minutes–1 hour, or until the top is golden brown and the potatoes are soft.

Cook’s note:

Any leftover pastry can be rolled into berry and/or leaf shapes to decorate the top crust. Attach them with a little beaten egg, then glaze the whole surface again.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Use 1 quantity Dairy-free Spelt Pastry and replace the single cream with the same quantity of soya (soy) or rice cream. Replace the butter with the same quantity of raw coconut oil, melted, or 125ml/4fl oz/½ cup olive oil.

Gluten-free option

Use 1 quantity Gluten-free Pastry and roll it out with brown rice flour.

Vegan option

Use 1 quantity Vegan Spelt Pastry. Omit the single cream and egg yolks and replace them with 300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups rice or soya (soy) cream beaten with 2 tbsp vegan cream cheese. Omit the butter and replace it with the same quantity of melted coconut oil or 125ml/4fl oz/½ cup olive oil. Glaze the pie with 2 tsp olive oil beaten with 2 tsp rice or soya cream.

potato pie

ROASTED PEPPER & GOAT’S CHEESE QUICHE

Serves 4–6 | Prep about 1 hour 40 minutes, including making the marmalade, plus making the pastry (dough), chilling for at least 2 hours and blind-baking (prebaking) | Bake 20–30 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten-free option | Lower-sugar option | Nut free | Vegan option

A classic combination for good reasons – the sweet onion marmalade is cut by the sharp balsamic vinegar note, and the Mediterranean warmth glows through. Make the effort to char-grill the peppers, as they add to the succulence. Use a mixture of red and yellow peppers, if you can find them.

125ml/4fl oz/½ cup full-fat (whole) milk or goat’s milk

6 tbsp single (light) cream

4 eggs

one 20cm/8in blind-baked (prebaked) pastry case (shell), 4cm/1½in deep, made with ½ quantity Spelt Pastry

2 large red or yellow (bell) peppers, de-seeded, quartered and char-grilled (see Cook’s note,), or 175g/6oz/1¾ cup bottled char-grilled peppers, drained and thinly sliced

140g/5oz/⅔ cup soft goat’s cheese with a runny middle, rinded and diced

For the Red Onion Marmalade:

2 tbsp olive oil

3 large red onions, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf, scrunched

½ tsp chopped thyme leaves

½ tsp chopped marjoram leaves

3 tbsp rapadura sugar

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

To make the red onion marmalade, heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and sweat (page 83) for 6 minutes. Add the herbs, re-cover and continue to cook over a low heat for 5 more minutes.
Raise the heat and add the sugar, stirring only to prevent burning; you are aiming for the sugar to caramelize. After about 6 minutes stir in the balsamic vinegar and season to taste.
Cover the pan and cook over a very low heat for about 40 minutes, uncovering and stirring occasionally, or until the onion marmalade is thick, dark and fragrant.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6.
Beat the milk, cream and eggs together and season with salt to taste. Place the tart tin with the pastry case (shell) on a baking (cookie) sheet.
Spread the onion marmalade over the pastry case, then scatter with the pepper strips and season with black pepper. Pour in the egg mixture and sprinkle the goat’s cheese over the surface.
Carefully place into the oven and top up with extra milk, if necessary, until the filling comes to the top of the pastry case’s rim.
Bake for 20–30 minutes until firm and golden brown. (See skewer tip on page 131.) Leave to cool slightly in the tin set on a wire rack, then remove from the tin and transfer to a serving dish. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

Cook’s notes:

To char-grill the peppers, heat the grill (broiler) to high. Place the de-seeded and quartered peppers on the grill rack, skin-side up, and grill, turning them occasionally, until charred. Wrap immediately in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave until cool. Peel off skins and thinly slice, then set aside.

Rapadura is an unrefined sugar that you can buy in health food stores or online.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Use ½ quantity Dairy-free Spelt Pastry to make the pastry case (shell). Replace the dairy or goat’s milk with an equal quantity of rice or soya (soy) milk and replace the single cream with an equal quantity of rice or soya (soy) cream. Replace the goat’s cheese with an equal quantity of vegan herbed cream cheese.

Gluten-free option

Use ½ quantity Gluten-free Pastry to make the pastry case (shell), or a Gluten-free Polenta Pastry Case.

Lower-sugar option

Replace the sugar in the onion marmalade with the same quantity of pomegranate molasses.

Vegan option

Use ½ quantity Vegan Gluten-free Pastry to make the pastry case (shell), or a Gluten-free Polenta Pastry Case, made with vegan Parmesan-style cheese and olive oil. Follow the dairy-free option above. Omit the eggs and replace them with 225g/8oz/1 cup vegan herbed cream cheese, 2 tbsp light tahini and 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or yeast flakes (nutritional yeast), beaten until smooth.

VEGAN COURGETTE & CASHEW QUICHE

Serves 4–6 | Prep 20 minutes, plus making the pastry and at least 2 hours chilling | Bake 40–50 minutes

Dairy free | Gluten-free option | Vegan

This is my master recipe for making vegan quiches, so you can replace the courgettes with any cooked vegetable of your choice, and replace the seeds with nuts. Just use your imagination. The vegan ingredients give a slightly grainier texture to the classic egg filling, but your family will love it.

one 20cm/8in blind-baked (prebaked) pastry case (shell), 4cm/1½in deep, made with ½ quantity Vegan Spelt Pastry, or ½ quantity Vegan Gluten-free Pastry, or ½ quantity Vegan Cheese, Almond & Thyme Pastry or a Gluten-free Polenta Pastry Case, made with vegan Parmesan-style cheese and olive oil

4 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

450g/1lb/4 cups courgettes (zucchini), coarsely grated

freshly grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

225g/8oz/1 cup vegan garlic-and-herb cream cheese or smoked tofu, chopped

125ml/4fl oz/½ cup rice or soya (soy) milk, plus extra, if necessary

6 tbsp rice or soya (soy) cream

2 tbsp light tahini

1 tbsp brown rice flour

1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder

½ tsp turmeric

4 tbsp chopped cashew nuts or sunflower seeds

2 tsp black onion seeds (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to Fan 180°C/Fan 350°F/Gas 6.
Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the garlic and fry for barely a minute.
Add the courgettes (zucchini) and stir-fry for 8 minutes, or until all the moisture has evaporated. Add the lemon zest and juice and cook for 2 more minutes.
Remove the pan from heat. Add ½ tsp salt and 5 grinds of pepper, then spread the mixture over the pastry case (shell) base and set aside.
Put the garlic cream cheese, soya (soy) milk, rice cream, tahini, rice flour, bouillon powder and turmeric in a blender or food processor and blend until very smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Put the pastry case in its tin on a baking (cookie) sheet. Pour the cream-cheese mixture over the courgettes. Carefully transfer to the oven and add extra rice milk, if necessary, so the topping reaches the rim. Scatter the surface with cashews and black onion seeds, if you like.

Bake for 40–50 minutes until the filling has set. It will have a fairly wobbly consistency until it cools. Leave the quiche to cool in its tin set on a wire rack. Remove from the tin and serve.

VARIATIONS

Chestnut, Cranberry, & Caramelized Onion Quiche

Make the pastry case (shell), as left. Make 1 quantity Onion Marmalade (Roasted Pepper & Goat’s Cheese Quiche) and stir in 1 tbsp chopped sage, then spread onto the pastry case. Sprinkle with 4 tbsp chopped cooked chestnuts. Pour over the cream cheese mixture from step 5, left, and sprinkle with 4 tbsp cranberries or redcurrants, defrosted if frozen. Bake as in the main recipe, step 7.

Mushroom, Butter Bean & Seed Quiche

Make the pastry case (shell), as left. Prepare the Mushroom, Butter Bean & Seed Salad. Spread the salad over the pastry case, then top with the cream cheese mixture from step 5, left. Bake the quiche as in the main recipe, step 7.

vegan quiche

BUTTERNUT, BERRY & GOAT’S CHEESECAKE

I created this signature dish for my many customers who only eat goat’s-milk products, and it has been a bestseller ever since. Don’t be put off by the thought of strong tasting, goaty flavours. This is a mild, unusually good-looking and tasty savoury reworking of the popular American baked cheesecake.

8 unpeeled garlic cloves

500g/1lb 2oz/2¼ cups soft goat’s cheese or mascarpone

250g/9oz/1 cup plus 2 tbsp goat’s or dairy ricotta cheese

150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup goat’s yogurt or crème fraîche

30g/1oz/½ cup basil leaves, or 2 tbsp vegan pesto

3 spring onions (scallions), coarsely chopped

3 eggs

2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or yeast flakes (nutritional yeast)

115g/4oz/1 cup sour berries, such as cranberries or redcurrants, defrosted if frozen

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

For the topping:

450g/1lb/3½ cups butternut squash, peeled and cut into 4cm/1½in cubes

1 tbsp tamari or liquid aminos

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tsp rapadura sugar

a small pinch of Piri-piri Spice Mix or chilli flakes

1 tbsp raw, melted coconut or olive oil

For the base:

4 tbsp raw coconut or olive oil

4 spring onions, chopped, or ½ leek, finely chopped and washed

55g/2oz/½ cup buckwheat flakes

55g/2oz/⅔ cup brown rice flakes

4 tbsp toasted blanched hazelnuts, chopped

1 tbsp chopped rosemary, or 1½ tsp dried

freshly grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7. Line the base and side of a 20cm/8in springform tin, 5cm/2in deep, with parchment paper, leaving a 5cm/2in collar above the rim.
To make the topping, put the butternut squash, vinegar, tamari, sugar, Piri-piri and oil in a roasting tray (baking sheet) lined with a silicone mat. Add the garlic from the filling ingredients, and toss so everything is well coated.
Roast for 12 minutes, then remove the garlic, which should be soft, and set it aside to cool. Turn the squash over and roast for 10 more minutes, or until soft. Leave to cool.
Turn the oven temperature down to Fan 160°C/Fan 325°F/Gas 4.
Meanwhile, to make the base, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat until it shimmers. Turn the heat down, add the spring onions and stir for 5 minutes.
Stir the buckwheat and rice flakes to amalgamate thoroughly and continue stirring until toasty brown spots appear. Stir in the nuts, rosemary and lemon zest. Cook for a couple more minutes, then add the lemon juice and cook until the liquid evaporates, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside to cool.

Sprinkle three-quarters of the base mixture in an even layer over the bottom of the tin and press down; reserve the remainder.

To make the filling, peel the roasted garlic and put it in a blender or food processor with the goat’s cheese, goat’s yogurt, basil, spring onions (scallions), eggs and bouillon powder. Blend until smooth, then season to taste.

Carefully pour the cheese mixture over the base. Arrange the squash on top in a central mound. Sprinkle the berries in a ring around the squash, then scatter the remaining lemon-flake base mixture around the edge of the tin, leaving a band of cheese mixture peeping through.

Place the tin on a baking (cookie) sheet and bake for 40–50 minutes until the cheesecake is wobbly, but set. Do not over-cook. Set the tin on a wire rack and leave to cool completely. Carefully unclip the side, invert onto a large, flat plate or tray and peel off the metal base and paper. Replace the metal base, cover the cheesecake with your serving dish and re-invert. Chill and serve.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace the goat’s cheese or mascarpone in the cheesecake mixture with the same quantity of vegan cream cheese. Replace the goat’s yogurt or crème fraîche with the same quantity of soya (soy) yogurt and replace the ricotta cheese with the same quantity of silken tofu.

Nut-free option

Replace the hazelnuts with 4 tbsp chopped sunflower seeds. Use olive oil in the topping and base.

Vegan option

Follow the dairy-free option. Omit the eggs and replace them with 115g/4oz/scant ½ cup light tahini and 2 tbsp brown rice flour, beaten until smooth.

DOLCELATTE & CUCUMBER CHEESECAKE

Serves 4–6 | Prep 20 minutes, plus at least 4 hours chilling and marinating the tempeh or tofu (optional) | Bake 45 minutes

Dairy-free option | Gluten free | Vegan option

A sweet, sour and salty tang contrasts well with the creamy blue cheese in this unique treat. Few of my customers had ever tried baked cucumbers before I started selling this. The crunchy, unexpected topping made it an instant success, and the tempeh provides a tasty, fermented tone.

250g/9oz dolcelatte or other soft blue cheese

500g/1lb 2oz/2 cups soft goat’s cheese or mascarpone

150ml/5floz/⅔ cup goat’s yogurt or crème fraîche

30g/1oz/½ cup basil leaves, or 2 tbsp vegan pesto

3 spring onions (scallions), coarsely chopped

3 eggs

1 tbsp yeast flakes (nutritional yeast) or vegetable bouillon powder

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

ingredients for one base from the Butternut, Berry & Goat’s Cheesecake recipe

For the topping:

1 cucumber, cut into 4cm/1½ in cubes

350g/12oz tempeh, defrosted if frozen and marinated, or smoked tofu, marinated (see opposite)

8 unpeeled garlic cloves

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp unsweetened apple juice concentrate or 1 tsp sugar

1 tbsp tamari

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

leaves from 5 thyme sprigs

10 gooseberries

15 black grapes, halved and seeded

10 black Greek olives, pitted

Preheat the oven to Fan 200°C/Fan 400°F/Gas 7. Line the base and side of a 20cm/8in springform tin, 5cm/2in deep, with parchment paper, leaving a 5cm/2in collar above the rim.
To make the topping, put the cucumber, oil, apple juice concentrate, tamari, vinegar and thyme in a roasting tray (baking sheet) lined with a silicone mat and toss well so everything is coated in oil. Add the garlic.
Roast for 12 minutes, then remove the garlic, which should be soft, and set it aside to cool. Turn the cucumber over and roast for 10 more minutes until soft, then set aside to cool.
Marinate the tempeh (opposite).
Turn down the oven temperature to Fan 160°C/Fan 325°F/Gas 4. To make the base, follow steps 5–6, Butternut, Berry & Goat’s Cheesecake.
To make the cheesecake mixture, peel the roasted garlic cloves and put them in a blender or food processor with the dolcelatte, goat’s cheese, goat’s yoghurt, basil leaves, spring onions (scallions), eggs and yeast flakes (nutritional yeast), and blend until smooth. Season to taste.

Sprinkle three-quarters of the lemon-flake base mixture in an even layer over the bottom of the lined tin and press it down; reserve the remainder.

Carefully pour the cheese mixture over the base. Arrange the roasted cucumber and the tempeh on top in a central mound. Sprinkle the gooseberries, grapes and olives in a ring around the cucumber, then scatter the remaining lemon-flake mixture around the edge, leaving a band of cheese mixture peeping through.

Bake as in step 10 on page 141 for 40–50 minutes until the cheesecake is wobbly, but set. Do not over-bake. Leave to cool and chill for 4 hours.

VARIATIONS

Dairy-free option

Replace mascarpone or soft goat’s cheese in the cheesecake mixture with the same quantity of vegan herbed cream cheese, replace the dolcelatte or other dairy cheese with vegan blue cheese and replace the goat’s yogurt or crème fraîche with the same quantity of soya (soy) yogurt.

Vegan option

For the cheesecake mixture, follow the dairy-free option above. Omit the eggs and replace them with 115g/4oz/scant ½ cup light tahini plus 2 tbsp brown rice flour, beaten until smooth.

MARINATED TEMPEH OR TOFU

250g/9oz tempeh, defrosted if frozen, or smoked tofu

For the marinade:

2 garlic cloves

1 spring onion, coarsely chopped

2 tbsp liquid aminos

2 tbsp pomegranate molasses or maple syrup

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1cm/½ in piece fresh ginger

1 tsp yeast flakes (nutritional yeast)

Blend all the marinade ingredients in a blender or food processor until smooth. Pour the marinade over the tempeh and leave for at least 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the grill (broiler) and place the tempeh and any remaining marinade on a silicone mat.
Grill the tempeh for 8–10 minutes on either side, or until it is well browned.