SOUPS, STARTERS AND SNACKS

Modern hors d’oeuvres or starters did not really feature in the early days of settlement in South Africa. They were introduced, much later, by immigrants from continental Europe. Virtually the only starters or snacks made in those early days were Eastern fish sambals or cooked bone marrow, both served with brown bread and butter. Following the Western European model, soup was then the chosen way to start a meal, and even the humblest kitchen relied on a good soup to stimulate appetites. Spices and flavourings were added during cooking, and the completed dish served at table; cooks considered it an affront to their skill if diners added seasoning to the soup themselves.

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STOCK

The constantly simmering stockpot was a prominent feature of every kitchen in days gone by. Into it went every scrap of leftover meat, as well as bones and vegetable trimmings – in fact, virtually everything that could help to improve the flavour of the stock. I remember the old coal range in my grandmother’s kitchen, with its big black stockpot (and, of course, the eternal coffee pot!) and I can still taste the delicious ertjiesop (see Green Pea Soup, page 14) and boontjiesop (see Bean Soup, page 14) she used to serve along with her own freshly baked Salt-rising Yeast Bread (page 109), and korrelkonfyt (see Grape Jam, page 130).

The slow cooker is the perfect modern equivalent of the stockpot and can be used for cooking both stocks and soups. For speed and convenience – but only if you are making reasonably small quantities – the microwave oven is ideal.

Stocks are not only a base for soups, although this is their primary use, but they are also used to add flavour to sauces, stews and casseroles. Stock is perhaps better cooked conventionally on a stove because it needs long, slow cooking for the most flavourful results. If you wish to make stock in your microwave oven, however, do not make more than 2 litres of liquid at a time (depending on the size of your oven). See the individual recipes for microwave times and settings.

HERE ARE SOME TIPS FOR MAKING STOCK

REHEATING SOUPS IN THE MICROWAVE OVEN

FISH STOCK

  1. Rinse the fish bits and pieces very well, then place them in a saucepan with the vegetables, bouquet garni, water and wine. Add the salt and bring slowly to the boil. Remove the scum as it rises to the surface. When there is no scum left, half cover the saucepan and simmer the stock for about 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and cool, then refrigerate or freeze until needed
  2. MICROWAVE OVEN Place the ingredients in a deep microwave bowl and microwave at 100 per cent power for 8 minutes, or until boiling. Reduce the power to 50 per cent and microwave for 10 minutes.

Makes ± 1.25 litres

MEAT (BEEF) STOCK

  1. Cut the meat from the bone and dice it. Chop the bones into smaller pieces. Melt the butter or fat in a large saucepan and brown the meat and bones. Add the salt, spices and water. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 3–4 hours, skimming the surface when necessary. Add the vegetables and bouquet garni, and simmer for a further hour. Top up with water, then strain through a fine sieve and set aside to cool. Remove the layer of fat that forms on top of the stock and strain it again, if necessary.
  2. MICROWAVE OVEN Brown the meat as described in the recipe. Transfer to a large, deep microwave bowl and add the salt, peppercorns, cloves and water. Microwave at 100 per cent power for 8–10 minutes. Add the vegetables and bouquet garni, reduce the power to 50 per cent and microwave for approximately 55 minutes.

Makes ± 1 litre

GAME STOCK

  1. Sauté the bacon in a large saucepan over low heat until the fat begins to run. Add the venison, beef and bones, and sauté in the bacon fat until lightly browned. Add the water and gradually bring to the boil. Add the salt and simmer for 1 hour, removing the scum occasionally. Add the vegetables, peppercorns, cloves and bouquet garni, and simmer for a further 3 hours. Strain the stock through a fine sieve. Cool and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
  2. MICROWAVE OVEN Use 750 g venison and beef, and halve the quantity of water. Sauté the bacon and brown the meat as described in the recipe, then transfer the ingredients to a large microwave dish and microwave at 100 per cent power for 8–10 minutes. Reduce the power to 50 per cent and microwave for about 55 minutes.

Makes ± 2.5 litres

CHICKEN STOCK

  1. Place all the ingredients except the vegetables in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, for 1–11⁄2 hours, skimming when necessary. Add the vegetables and continue simmering for 11⁄2–2 hours, or until the chicken is tender. Skim the fat, then strain the stock through a fine sieve. Cool and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
  2. MICROWAVE OVEN Halve the quantities of chicken, salt, water and celery. Place all the ingredients into a deep bowl and microwave at 100 per cent power for 8–10 minutes. Reduce the power to 50 per cent and microwave for about 55 minutes.
  3. VARIATIONS Use duck or turkey instead of chicken.

Makes ± 2.5 litres

VEGETABLE STOCK

  1. Melt the butter or margarine in a large saucepan, then add the olive oil. Sauté all the vegetables, except the beans, stirring constantly for about 10–15 minutes, or until they change colour. Add 250 ml water and simmer until the liquid has been absorbed. Add the drained beans and the 2 litres water, mix well and bring to the boil. Skim the fat from the stock, then add the sugar, salt, pepper and bouquet garni. Simmer, covered, for 2–21⁄2 hours. Strain. Cool and refrigerate or freeze until needed.

Makes ± 2 litres

WHITE SAUCE

This sauce is used as a base for cream soups.

  1. Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Remove from the stove. Sprinkle the flour over and stir to blend. Return to the stove and cook over low heat, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove from the stove. Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Return to the stove, simmer over low heat for 5 minutes and stir often. Season.
  2. MICROWAVE OVEN Place the butter in a 1 litre glass jug. Microwave at 100 per cent power for 30 seconds, or until melted. Stir in the flour, salt and pepper, and microwave at 100 per cent power for 45 seconds. Stir. Gradually whisk in the milk, blending well. Microwave at 100 per cent power for 2 minutes, stirring twice. Remove from oven and stir well.
  3. VARIATION For a more intense flavour, make a béchamel sauce. Place the milk in a heavy-based saucepan along with 1 carrot, 1⁄2 small onion, 1 stalk celery, a pinch of ground mace, and 4 peppercorns. Bring to simmering point over low heat, remove from the stove, cover and leave to infuse for 30 minutes. Strain and discard the vegetables. Use instead of milk in the recipe above. In the microwave oven, cook the roux at 100 per cent power for 30 seconds. Stir, then whisk in the flavoured milk. Microwave at 100 per cent power for 2 minutes, stirring twice.

Makes 250 ml

CREAM OF WATERBLOMMETJIE SOUP

This soup was traditionally served with krakelinge (cracknels) – figure-of-eight-shaped biscuits made from mosbolletjie dough (see Must Buns, page 106), brushed with butter and sprinkled with sugar before baking.

  1. Melt the butter or margarine in a heavy-based saucepan over moderate heat. Add the waterblommetjies and toss to coat evenly. Add the stock and simmer, covered, for 20–25 minutes or until the waterblommetjies are soft. Purée the soup and return to the saucepan. Add the sauce and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in the cream and sherry, and serve at once.
  2. VARIATIONS This basic recipe can be used to make creamed soups from other green vegetables – celery, broccoli and spinach are particularly good.

Serves 4–6

CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP

The original recipe, as described by Leipoldt and as made by my grandmother and her mother before her, calls for a bunch of mixed herbs, but the traditional bouquet garni does just as well.

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Stocks add flavour to soups and stews.
  1. Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the chicken and brown lightly. Add the stock, onions, carrots and bouquet garni. Simmer, covered, for about 2 hours, or until the chicken is tender. Remove the breast flesh from the chicken and set it aside. Return the rest of the chicken to the saucepan and continue to simmer. Place the breast flesh, the rice, extra butter and mace in a blender or food processor, and chop finely. Add to the saucepan. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add the coconut milk or milk and bring the soup to the boil. Beat the egg yolks and cream together and spoon into a large deep serving dish. Add the soup, grate the nutmeg over and serve immediately.
  2. NOTE To make coconut milk, infuse 125 ml desiccated coconut in 250 ml heated (not boiled) milk for 1–2 hours. Strain, squeezing the coconut to release all the liquid.

Serves 6–8

GREEN PEA SOUP (ERTJIESOP)

Green split peas are traditionally used to make this main course soup, but yellow split peas – as used in Holland – also make a delectable dish.

  1. Soak the peas overnight in the water. Transfer them to a large saucepan, with the water, and add the pork shanks or ham bone. Bring slowly to the boil, then simmer, covered, for about 3 hours, or until the peas are soft and the flavours have combined. Add the leeks, celery, salt and pepper and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes. Remove the pork shanks or ham bone. Cube the meat, discarding the bones, and return to the soup. Add the sausages and simmer to heat through. Serve immediately, garnished with croutons, grated Cheddar cheese, cream or natural yoghurt and parsley sprigs.

Serves 6

BEAN SOUP (BOONTJIESOP)

The speckled sugar bean was traditionally used to make this nourishing soup. Pork fat (speck) was often used instead of bacon, and a tablespoonful of brown vinegar added to the soup brought out its flavour.

  1. Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover. Drain the beans. Place the meat, bacon and water in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, until the meat is tender (2 hours for mutton or pork shanks, 1 hour for the ham bone). Melt the butter or margarine in a frying pan and sauté the onion, celery and carrot for 3 minutes. When the meat is tender, add the sautéed vegetables and the beans, and simmer, uncovered, for 20–30 minutes. Skim the surface of the soup if necessary. Remove the meat and bones. Cube and reserve the meat and discard the bone, fat and gristle. Purée the remaining contents of the saucepan and return to the saucepan with the meat. Add the salt and pepper and bring the soup to the boil. Serve at once.

Serves 8

VENISON SOUP

Game soup, on which this easier, modern version is based, was usually made from several kinds of venison and game birds, and pork fat (speck) was generally added too. The soup always contained a lot of herbs and spices, and was thickened with flour or bread.
  1. Place the stock and bones in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for 1–11⁄2 hours, or until the marrow and meat are cooked. Season with salt and pepper, stir in the sherry or wine, and serve poured over toasted brown bread cubes.

Serves 4–6

CURRIED SNOEK HEAD SOUP

This recipe illustrates two points: that nothing edible was ever wasted by our forefathers, and that they were incredibly creative, sometimes combining the most unlikely ingredients to make a delectable dish. Saffron, a favoured spice, not only imparts a reddish yellow colour but also adds pungency to soups. It is expensive, but turmeric makes a good substitute.

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Green Pea Soup, Bean Soup and Curried Snoek Head Soup.

  1. Wash and halve the snoek heads, retaining the flesh behind the neck. Heat the butter or oil in a large saucepan and sauté the onions for about 5 minutes, or until transparent. Add the ginger, garlic, celery and potatoes. Remove the saucepan from the stove and blend in the flour, stirring to form a smooth paste. Add the salt and water, stirring constantly. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Mix the turmeric or saffron and curry powder to a paste with a little water. Add to the soup, stirring constantly, then stir in the chillies. Add the fish heads and simmer, covered, for about 11⁄2–2 hours, adding more water if necessary. Remove the fish heads and serve the soup at once with brown bread and Moskonfyt (page 127).

Serves 6

TOMATO SOUP

In the past, every household had its own herb garden, where herbs such as basil and thyme were grown. This is a trend which is once again popular, and even flat-dwellers can grow their own selection of herbs in pots on a sunny windowsill. The prawns in this recipe are a modern addition.

  1. Skin and chop the tomatoes. Heat the butter or margarine in a large, heavy-based saucepan and sauté the onions and potatoes for 5–8 minutes, or until the onions are transparent and the potatoes browned. Add the tomatoes, tarragon or basil, garlic and tomato juice and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Purée the soup, return to the saucepan and add the orange juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper and heat through over low heat. Stir in the finely orange rind, cream and prawns, if using, and serve immediately.

Serves 6

DUMPLING SOUP

This traditional soup was simply a meat broth in which bread dumplings were steamed. In the early days of settlement at the Cape, housewives made the broth from beef, mace, cloves, sorrel, salt and water, but Meat (Beef) Stock (page 11) can be used instead.

  1. Reduce the stock slowly and carefully to make sure that its flavour is concentrated enough. The dumplings were made by melting a tablespoon (15 ml) of fat or butter in a cup (250 ml) of boiling water and then blending it with 2 cups (500 ml) of flour. After cooling, 2 eggs were folded in. The dough was shaped into small balls and added to the prepared broth. They were then steamed, covered, for about 15 minutes or until cooked.

SORREL SOUP

As children, we loved to pick sorrel (suring) and chew it for its sour lemon flavour, without knowing how rich it was in vitamin C. Sailors voyaging past the Cape on the Eastern run, a century before Van Riebeeck arrived, knew that it could help prevent scurvy. They landed here to pick the wild sorrel growing on the slopes of Table Mountain and ate it in a stew.

  1. Soak the sorrel in salted water for 30 minutes. Drain and chop finely. Heat the stock in a large, heavy-based saucepan and add the sorrel, onion and potatoes. Cook, covered, over low heat for approximately 30–45 minutes. Stir in the herbs and serve.
  2. VARIATIONS

Serves 6

VEGETABLE SOUP

For a thicker, more substantial winter soup, our ancestors added barley to the vegetables, and included potatoes and swedes or turnips as well.
  1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan and sauté the onions and garlic for approximately 5 minutes, or until the onions are transparent. Add the carrots, turnips, celery, baby marrows, butternut squash, brinjals, mealie kernels, tarragon or thyme and the stock and bring the soup to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover the saucepan and simmer for approximately 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft. Season to taste and serve.
  2. NOTE Peeled and diced potatoes and tomatoes, about 2 of each, can be added, if you wish.

Serves 4–6

OXTAIL SOUP

This classic British meat soup, hearty enough to serve as a meal on its own, has become an integral part of the South African culinary heritage. Oxtail needs long, slow cooking, but the results are sublime.

  1. Wash the oxtail well and separate it at the joints. Melt the butter or dripping in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the meat and onion, and sauté until the onion is golden and the meat browned. Add the remaining vegetables, peppercorns, cloves, water and bouquet garni, and simmer, covered, for 3 hours. Remove the meat when it is tender and strip it from the bones. Remove the bouquet garni and strain the soup, reserving the stock. Purée the vegetables in a blender or food processor. Add the purée to the stock and return the saucepan to the stove. Mix the flour to a paste with a little water and stir it into the soup to thicken it. Add the sherry or wine, if using, and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Add the meat and serve immediately.

Accompaniments to soup

The early settlers served bits of bread fried in fat, similar to the croutons that are popular today, with rich soups. Soups containing curry sometimes had cooked white rice as an accompaniment, and yet other soups – notably those originating in the East – were served with Bokkems (page 26), or ‘Indian duck’ as it was called by the British colonials who came to the country from India and Malaysia.

Serves 6

SMOKED SNOEK PÂTÉ

This is a less spicy version of the popular fish sambal introduced to this country from the East, which our forefathers savoured (see Snoek Sambal, page 19).

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Snoek Sambal and Smoked Snoek Pâté, delicious with bread or Melba toast.

  1. Beat the butter or margarine in a mixing bowl until creamy. Add the mustards and beat to mix well. Add the brandy and beat well. Add the flaked snoek and mix well to combine thoroughly. Season and pack into earthenware jars. Chill until firm. Serve with biscuits, Melba toast or wholewheat bread. The pâté will keep for about 1 week, refrigerated.
  2. NOTE It is easy to make larger quantities of this pâté if you are feeding a crowd; simply ensure that the quantity of snoek is double that of the butter or margarine. Adjust the quantity of brandy to taste.

Serves 4

SPRINGBOK LIVER PÂTÉ

The abundance of game and the unpalatability of the beef available in the 17th and 18th centuries meant that many game dishes made their way into our culinary repertoire. This game pâté occupies a well-deserved place among the many meat- and fish-based pâtés that have become firm favourites as the start to a meal.

  1. Melt the 30 ml butter in a frying pan, then add the liver, mushrooms and onion, and sauté for 5 minutes. Stir in the sherry or wine, garlic, dill seeds, salt and Tabasco® sauce and simmer, covered, for 5–8 minutes, or until the liver is just tender. Remove from the stove and allow to cool slightly. Place in a blender or food processor with the 175 g butter and purée until smooth. Pack the pâté tightly into an earthenware dish or jar, and garish with the bay or lemon leaf. Chill for at least 6 hours before use, to allow flavours to mingle (see Note). Serve with Melba toast, wholewheat bread or savoury biscuits.
  2. NOTE The pâté improves if left to mature for a day or two, but it has a limited shelf life – up to 5 days in the refrigerator. If making it in advance, spoon a little clarified butter over the top to help preserve it.

Serves 6–8

SNOEK SAMBAL

The recipe for fish sambals – very spicy fish spreads – was brought to this country by Malay slaves at the end of the 17th century and quickly adapted for the fish available locally. Cooked, flaked snoek – some cooks prefer to use dried salted snoek (see page 30) – is one of the best fish for this snack, which was traditionally served with moskonfyt.

  1. Mix all the ingredients together well and pack the mixture into an earthenware dish. Serve with thinly sliced brown bread and butter. The sambal will keep for 2 days in the refrigerator.

Serves 4

CRUMBED ANCHOVIES

In the past, anchovies were plentiful and were often braaied on the beach. Fresh anchovies are not as freely available today, but frozen fish may also be used.

  1. Dust the anchovies with flour. Beat the egg and milk together and dip the fish in the mixture. Roll the fish in the breadcrumbs, coating them completely. Deep-fry in hot oil, then drain on absorbent paper. Sprinkle the fish with coarse salt and serve them immediately as part of an antipasto tray or with drinks.
  2. VARIATION Use sardines instead of the anchovies.

Serves 8

MILK NOODLES (MELKKOS, MELKSNYSELS)

Melkkos was served as a light supper dish, in the days when the main meal was served in the middle of the day. It makes an interesting first course to a traditional meal. To save time, ready-made medium ribbon noodles, vermicelli or thin ribbon noodles can be used, but the dish tastes much better if you make the noodles yourself, as described here.

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Milk noodles were traditionally served as a light supper dish.
  1. Sift the flour and salt together. Beat the eggs well, then add 250 ml of the milk and mix well. Stir in the sifted flour mixture and just enough milk to form a stiff dough. Knead until elastic, then roll the dough out thinly on a floured board. Sprinkle the dough with additional flour and cut into 3 mm-wide strips to make noodles. Heat the remaining milk to boiling point. Add the noodles and butter, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the noodles are cooked. Ladle the melkkos into soup bowls and serve hot, sprinkled with Cinnamon Sugar.

Serves 6

RAREBIT

Welsh rarebit, a tangy cheese mixture, is spread onto toast and grilled to make a perfect starter or quick snack. It was introduced to South Africa by the British.

  1. Melt the butter or margarine in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the flour and cook for about 2–3 minutes, stirring. Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly for about 3 minutes, or until the mixture is smooth and thick. Add most of the cheese, the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, and stir until the cheese has melted. Spread on the toast, sprinkle the remaining cheese on top and grill until the cheese is bubbling and golden. Serve at once.
  2. VARIATION To make a more substantial snack, top the rarebit with a poached or fried egg.

Serves 4

CHILLI BITES (DHALTJIES)

These hot, fiery snacks, which are very popular among the Malay and Indian communities, are definitely not for the faint-hearted!

  1. Sift the pea flour and cake flour into a large mixing bowl. Add the onion, cumin, coriander, chillies, salt, turmeric, coriander leaves, apple and spinach, and mix with just enough water to make a stiff batter. Set aside until ready to make the chilli bites, then stir in the baking powder. Heat the oil in a deep saucepan. Drop tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the oil, a few at a time, and deep-fry for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Turn the chilli bites to brown the other side if necessary, then remove and drain on absorbent paper. Repeat until the mixture has all been used. Serve hot.

Makes about 24

CINNAMON SUGAR

Ground cinnamon mixed with sugar has always been a favourite flavouring or finish for dishes like melktert (see Milk Tart, page 101), Pumpkin Fritters (page 71) and Traditional Pancakes (page 89).

  1. To make cinnamon sugar, add about 5 ml ground cinnamon to every 65 ml granulated sugar and mix well.

SNOEK ROE PÂTÉ

Snoek roe has always been considered a delicacy among the fisherfolk of the West Coast. One of the best ways to enjoy it is fried (preferably on the beach), but this elegant pâté is an excellent alternative.

  1. Remove and discard the skins from the roe, then empty the eggs into a bowl. Add half the lemon juice and mix it in well with a fork, taking care not to break the eggs (see Note). Add remaining lemon juice and mix again. Gradually mix in the cream. Season to taste with ginger and cayenne pepper. Transfer the pâté to a serving dish, sprinkle with paprika and refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve with hot buttered toast. It will keep for 2 days in the refrigerator.
  2. NOTE Do not use an electric mixer or blender, which would break the eggs (roe).

Serves 4