SWEETS AND SWEETMEATS

For centuries, all over the world, sweets like toffee, Fudge (page 115) and peanut brittle have been made at home. These, and one or two that are only found here, like Tameletjie (page 115) and Burnt Almonds (page 117), are widely enjoyed by South Africans, and have been for generations. Each country also has its traditional sweetmeats. Originally these were minced meats sweetened with fruits and honey but, in time, they have become confections made solely from fruit and some sweetening agent. In South Africa, these include sugared fruit leather (vrugtesmeer), Mebos (page 116) and Fruit Rolls (page 117). It was the custom, in many homes, to serve sweetmeats at the end of a meal or with morning coffee, a custom which is coming back into favour with a slight twist, as glacé fruits served with dessert or cheese as the final course of a meal.

TIPS FOR MAKING SWEETS

• Use a medium-sized, heavy-based saucepan, unless the sweets contain a lot of milk or cream (like Fudge, page 115). If they do, use a larger saucepan, as the mixture tends to boil over.
• Sudden heating or cooling can crack the glass of a sugar thermometer, so place the thermometer in lukewarm water and heat it to boiling point before placing it in the boiling syrup. After use, leave the thermometer in boiling or very hot water until cooled.
• Mix all the ingredients very well before they reach boiling point.
• Make absolutely sure that the sugar dissolves completely before the mixture begins to boil, otherwise the undissolved sugar could form crystals. This is particularly important for crystalline sweets, such as fudge, as even a few crystals can cause the whole mixture to become granular.
• During cooking, it is extremely important to wash down the sides of the saucepan with a small brush dipped in hot water to get rid of the sugar crystals.
• Do not stir sugar mixtures while they are boiling, unless they have a good deal of milk or cream in them, and even then only stir when absolutely necessary to prevent burning.
• Plunge the base of the saucepan into cold water for a few seconds as soon as the mixture reaches the correct temperature, to prevent the saucepan’s heat raising the temperature of the mixture still further.

USING A SUGAR THERMOMETER
It is much easier to make sweets if you use a sugar thermometer, because you can tell at a glance whether the mixture is ready or not. Before using the thermometer, test it by placing it in a saucepan of hot water. Bring the water to the boil and read the temperature on the thermometer. Water boils at 100 °C at sea level, and at a few degrees lower at higher altitudes. This difference should be taken into account. If the reading on your thermometer is 3 °C less than the boiling point at sea level, for example, subtract 3 °C from the required temperature for the recipe. For the best results, use the Cold Water Test (below) in conjuction with the sugar thermometer.

COLD WATER TEST
When the syrup reaches the soft-ball stage, it forms a very soft ball when a little of it is dropped into cold water, and the ball flattens when it is removed from the water. At the firm-ball stage, the syrup forms a firm ball when dropped into cold water, and it does not flatten when removed. The temperature of the syrup at sea level varies according to which stage the syrup has reached. At the soft-ball stage it is 112–116 °C, and at the firm-ball stage 118–120 °C.

COCONUT ICE

A traditional Malay sweet, called lallimala, is similar to coconut ice, but much softer in consistency.

• 150 ml each water and milk, or 300 ml milk
• 1 kg white sugar
• 30 ml butter
• 250 g desiccated coconut
• 5 ml vanilla essence
• few drops of red food colouring

1. Pour the water and milk (or milk only) into a medium-sized saucepan and add the sugar and butter. Heat over low heat until the sugar dissolves completely. Bring to the boil and cook for 10 minutes, or until the mixture reaches the firm-ball stage (see Cold Water Test, above), stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, oil a shallow, 20 cm-square pan. Remove the saucepan from the stove and add the coconut and vanilla essence. Beat the mixture briskly with a wooden spoon until it is fairly thick and creamy. Pour half into the oiled pan. Add the food colouring to the remaining half (do this quickly, as the mixture thickens rapidly, making it difficult for the colour to spread evenly). Pour the pink coconut mixture on top of the white and spread it evenly. Leave the coconut ice in a cool place until firm, then cut it into narrow bars about 4 cm long. Store in an airtight container.

Makes about 1 kg

FUDGE

As children, my sister and I were always experimenting with sweet recipes – and always burning ourselves with the hot mixtures. Then we tried this recipe, which has been in the family for generations, and for the first time we were able to savour the (sweet) results of our labours without having to resort to the first aid box.

Popular sweet treats: Fudge, Coconut Ice and Nutty Toffee.

• 1 kg white sugar
• 250 g butter
• 410 g can evaporated milk
• 100 ml cold water
• 1 ml vanilla essence

1. Rinse a 4 litre saucepan with cold water. Place all the ingredients in the saucepan and heat over low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely, stirring occasionally and brushing down the sides of the pan when necessary. When the sugar has dissolved, bring the mixture to the boil and boil rapidly until it reaches the soft-ball stage (see Cold Water Test, page 114). Remove from the stove and cool for 3 minutes, then beat rapidly with a wooden spoon until it thickens and feels rough. Line a 20 cm-square pan with waxed paper. Pour in the fudge and, when it starts to set, mark it into squares with a knife. Cool completely, cut into squares and store in an airtight container.

Makes about 1 kg

NUTTY TOFFEE (TAMELETJIE)

A very sticky toffee, often called stick-jaw, which has been enjoyed at the Cape since the time of the French Huguenots. Years ago, these sweets were sold by Malay street vendors, but now they seem to be made only for special private feasts. Pine kernels are used traditionally (the sweet is then called pitjietameletjie), but as these are exorbitantly expensive, almonds or desiccated coconut can be used instead.

• 400 g white sugar
• 250 ml water
• pine kernels, almonds or desiccated coconut

1. Boil the sugar and water until the mixture is a caramel colour and starts frothing. Add a sprinkling of chopped pine kernels, almonds or desiccated coconut. Pour into a well-greased, 23 cm-square flat pan and mark off squares with a wet knife. Leave to cool, then cut. Store in an airtight container.

Makes about 400 g

GLACÉ FRUITS

The Dutch colonists were extremely hospitable. Visitors to the homestead were offered coffee and glacé fruits as a sustaining snack.

• 500 g fruit (see Note)
• 30 ml slaked lime dissolved in 5 litres water
• 1 litre boiling water
• 500 g white sugar
• 1 ml cream of tartar

1. Wash the fruit, prick it with a skewer and chop, segment or leave it whole, depending on the fruit (see Note). Prepare the lime solution and soak the fruit in it overnight (this makes the fruit crisp), then drain the fruit and rinse well under cold running water. Cook the fruit in the boiling water for 20–30 minutes, or until just tender. Remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain the cooking liquid and add 750 ml to the sugar in a saucepan. Stir in the cream of tartar. Bring to the boil to make a syrup. Gradually add the reserved fruit to the boiling syrup. Boil for 30 minutes, then remove the saucepan from the stove and leave, covered, overnight. The next day, remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and set aside. Bring the syrup to the boil. Replace the fruit and boil it again for 30 minutes. Repeat this process for 5–6 days, or until the fruit is saturated with syrup. Drain the fruit and leave it on a wire rack for a few days to dry, turning often to ensure even drying.
2. NOTE Figs, peaches, pineapple, pears, apricots and citrus fruits are best. Leave small figs whole, slice pineapple, pears and citrus (remove pips), halve and stone apricots and peaches.

Makes about 500 g

MEBOS

This traditional Cape delicacy combines sweet and sour flavours admirably, but is definitely an acquired taste!

Traditional ways with fruit: Fruit Rolls, Mebos and Glacé Fruits.

• unblemished, ripe apricots
• 1 kg salt dissolved in 8 litres water
• 750 g sugar per 500 g mebos

1. Soak the whole apricots overnight in the salted water. Next day, drain the apricots and remove the skins. Leave the apricots in the sun for 12 hours, then gently force the stones out at one end. If the apricots are small, press 2–3 together into a round, flat shape. Dry them, spread on racks, for a few days. During the drying process, shape the mebos by hand (dip your hands into a mixture of 30 ml salt and 2 litres water). Weigh the mebos to determine how much sugar you will need. Pack alternate layers of mebos and sugar neatly into small boxes. Close the boxes securely and store the mebos in a dark place. It will keep for several months.

CANDIED PEEL

Our grandmothers used candied peel as a sweet snack or to decorate cakes or desserts.

• 1 orange, 1 lemon, 1 grapefruit
• 250 g white sugar
• 500 ml water

1. Wash the fruit and cut into sections. Scoop out the flesh and cut the peel into thin strips. Soak the orange and lemon peel overnight in water to cover (grapefruit peel should be soaked for 3 days, changing the water daily). Drain the citrus peel, then boil it in fresh water to cover for 30 minutes, or until soft (test with a skewer). Drain the peel. Boil the sugar and water together until slightly thickened, to make a syrup. (The syrup must cover the peel, so double the quantities if necessary.) Bring the syrup to the boil and add the peel. Boil again briefly, then leave the peel in the syrup to cool. Repeat the boiling and cooling process 3–4 times, then remove the peel with a slotted spoon and leave to dry on waxed paper.
2. VARIATIONS

• Glazed peel: Prepare a syrup using 400 g sugar, 250 ml water and 1 ml cream of tartar and boil to the soft-ball stage (see Cold Water Test, page 114). Dip the candied peel into the hot syrup and place on waxed paper to dry.
• Chocolate-dipped peel: Melt 50 g chocolate with 5 ml butter. Dip the candied peel into the chocolate and place on waxed paper to dry.

Makes about 250 g

BURNT ALMONDS

Almonds were eaten fresh or sugared and were very often prepared this way.

• 1 kg yellow sugar
• a few drops of red food colouring
• 15 ml butter
• 375 ml water
• 15 ml cake flour
• 30 ml milk
• 2 ml salt
• 10 ml ground ginger
• 750 ml shelled almonds

1. Combine the sugar, red food colouring, butter and water in a heavy-based saucepan and stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Boil to the soft-ball stage (see Cold Water Test, page 114). Mix the flour with the milk and add to the boiled mixture with the salt and ginger. Remove from the stove and beat with a wooden spoon until cool. Add the nuts immediately and drop spoonfuls of the mixture onto a greased baking sheet. Leave to harden. Store in an airtight container.

Makes about 750 g

FRUIT ROLLS

Another traditional sweetmeat that’s very easy to make.

• fresh apricots or peaches, stoned
• 250 ml sugar per 250 ml
• minced fruit
• butter and sugar

1. Mince the fresh fruit of your choice, or process very finely in a food processor. Measure the fruit to determine how much sugar you will need. Add the sugar to the minced fruit and mix. Grease waxed paper or baking parchment with butter and spread the fruit mixture evenly over the paper. Leave the fruit to dry in the sun for about 12 hours. Loosen the fruit from the paper and discard the paper. Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and roll up tightly. Store, wrapped in waxed paper, in a cool, dark place. Fruit rolls will keep for several months.
2. VARIATIONS You can also use guavas, quinces, nectarines, figs, apples or pears.