Introduction
Welcome to the crunchy, gooey, melty world of backyard bonfires and roasting sticks, of campfire songs and camaraderie. You will find nothing boring in this book of s’mores. It is simply a collection of riffs—from the expected to the outrageous—on one of the most beloved desserts of all time. Before you dive into the recipes, however, please pause to indulge me with a few pressing diversions . . .
What are s’mores?
S’mores have been, are, and always will be my favorite dessert. This traditional campfire treat is strikingly easy to put together—just graham crackers, chocolate, and marshmallow. That’s it. And yet, these three simple ingredients have such staying power. I have countless memories of eating s’mores—the time, the place, and the friends I was with. Name any other dessert that’s so simple and yet has such nostalgia attached to it!
Why is something so simple so amazing?
The flavors match perfectly. The flavors of the three simple ingredients just go so well together. The hint of salt in the graham cracker and the slight char on the marshmallow combine to make s’mores most people’s first entry point into the world of salty desserts.
S’mores are texturally balanced. The best things come in threes, right? In this case, crunchy cracker, warm gooey marshmallow, and half-melted chocolate that coats your mouth.
S’mores are interactive. Instead of someone cooking behind closed doors and emerging with a finished cake, the creation of s’mores allows everyone to be involved in the fun! Each person thinks they make the perfect s’more, and everyone has their own method for toasting marshmallows. We will be introducing you to a handful of these toasting personalities throughout the book.
S’mores are social. Bonfires and great conversations go hand in hand. And the competitive aspect of marshmallow toasting and s’more assembly can make things interesting.
You can eat them without shoes on. Anthony Bourdain (may he RIP) always said that food tastes better when your feet are in the sand. In this case, for “sand,” just substitute grass or the ground near your fire pit. Eating outside surrounded by friends, nature, and a roaring fire creates a great atmosphere for enjoying food.
What are the s’mores in this book?
This book features fifty-one twists on the traditional s’mores package: a small sandwich with a crunchy exterior, creamy filling, and decadent sauce. The recipes start with classic and beloved dessert flavors. As you flip the pages, the ingredients move farther away from the norm, exchanging the usual trio for some wild s’mores ideas.
As the book progresses, the recipes gradually swap out the chocolate, graham cracker, and marshmallow, one by one, replacing each with similar textures and colors to see how far we can take the idea of s’mores without losing the recognizable components. When we start to vary flavors, we begin to rethink the true idea of what makes a s’more. By the end of the s’mores journey, the relationship to a traditional s’more is purely structural—it looks like a s’more, but doesn’t taste like one! You can ride along on this quest—from classic to crazy—by starting at the beginning of the book and tasting the recipes in order, or hop around, looking for the flavor combinations that speak to you.
Because s’mores are so easy to make and so perfect as is, I made sure these recipes were mostly on the easy-to-make side. When they do get a little more challenging, they are very much worth the extra effort!
What you won’t find in this book are s’mores flavors presented in a different format. For example, there are no s’mores cakes or s’mores cookies, just perfectly balanced stacks of ingredients.
Marshmallow Cooking
There are four main methods for cooking marshmallows to that perfect golden brown crust and gooey, melty middle. For purposes of this book, I wrote the recipes with the broiler method (following page) in mind, particularly for batches of twelve, but the best way will always be over an open fire. I encourage you to use the method that works best for you at the moment. Embrace the s’more year-round and try them all!
Over the Fire
Overall warming: 1 foot above
Precision browning zone: 2 to 4 inches away from an especially hot zone
Extreme heat: in the actual flames
Whether it’s flickering embers in a small pit or a huge blazing pyre, open flame is the classic s’mores heat source. Use a long-enough stick and find a spot near the fire that has a strong but medium temperature coming from multiple directions at the marshmallow. Keep a close eye on it to prevent burning on the outside (unless that’s your thing) before the inside is warmed through. Experimentation is key.
Gas Stovetop
Overall warming: 6 to 8 inches away
Precision browning zone: 2 to 4 inches away
Using an uncovered gas burner on high heat is the way I initially toasted most of my marshmallows while creating these recipes. I like to hold the marshmallow high above the flame right in the center of the ring. If you hold it in the right spot, the heat becomes very concentrated. Keep spinning the marshmallow to avoid flare-ups and to get a nice even color and temperature.
COOKING TORCH
Precision browning zone: 2 to 4 inches away
A cooking torch can be a nice way to get precise browning, but it is harder to achieve an overall cooked-through, gooey-in-the-middle marshmallow. So you don’t burn the counter or a plate, put the marshmallow on a baking sheet oiled with cooking spray, and hold the torch far away to start so you can control the browning and internal temperature.
Precision browning zone: a rack in the upper third of the oven
The broiler method is used in the recipes in this book. Every broiler is different, so here are my general tips.
First, and this is true with broiling anything, you need to watch the marshmallows as they broil. Marshmallows can easily turn into tiny flaming pillows and, if you walk away for even a single minute, you might end up with an oven fire. The number one way to NOT have fun making s’mores is to set something ablaze that is not meant to be.
Second, test your broiler. A good way to do this is to fill a pan with marshmallows and place it under the broiler. Keep a close eye on it. After a few minutes you will clearly see the hot spots and cold spots based on the browning patterns on the marshmallows. You should keep those hot spots in mind when preparing your s’mores in the oven.
Third, place the rack as close to the broiler as it can go. This advice is the same whether you have a gas, electric, or drawer-style broiler.
Fourth, preheat the broiler. You may not think you need to preheat it, but just a few minutes of preheating with gas, and closer to ten minutes with electric, will help you get much better and more even results.
Fifth, again, depending on your oven, you might need to keep the oven door ajar. Some broilers shut off if the heat gets too intense in the oven; leaving the door cracked open will avoid this issue.
A Note on Chocolate
A typical chocolate bar is made up of 12 pips—the small rectangles that make it easy to break the bar into bite-sized shareable pieces. The standard for s’mores is Hershey’s chocolate bars, so that is what I used in these recipes. I went a little lighter on the chocolate than what I have seen elsewhere because I think the ratio is better. Chocolate can easily overpower the other ingredients. It’s really based on personal preference, though, so don’t feel like you need to follow my lead. At any time, feel free to use any brand of milk chocolate or a darker variety that you like. Just don’t use white chocolate, please.
Homemade Marshmallows
Homemade marshmallows are a different beast than their store-bought counterparts. If you have never made them, put this recipe on the top of your list. I am not saying you need to make them for every s’more—I absolutely don’t— but when you do use them, it makes everything that much more special. The best time to make them is near the holidays, since they keep well and are great to have on hand for hot chocolate. And if you are going through the effort of making them, why not add in flavors? I have given a few suggestions after this recipe, but the possibilities are endless.
Makes 36 Takes 30 minutes active time, 6 hours total
¾ cup water
3 tablespoons gelatin (usually three 7-gram packages)
2 cups granulated sugar
½ cup corn syrup or agave nectar
Pinch of kosher salt
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup cornstarch
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
About 2 tablespoons butter, or another solid fat, such as shortening or coconut oil, plus more for the knife
1 Place ½ cup of the water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or in a large bowl. Add the gelatin and stir. Let the mixture sit so the gelatin can bloom, about 5 minutes. You’ll know it’s blooming when the water reaches a gel-like consistency.
2 Meanwhile, combine the granulated sugar, corn syrup, salt, and remaining ¼ cup of water in a small saucepan. Stir well to mix. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.
3 Attach a candy thermometer to the saucepan (do not let it touch the bottom) and turn the heat to high. Cook, undisturbed, until the temperature reaches 245°F, or the soft-ball stage (meaning if you were to squeeze the syrup mixture when cool, it would be only slightly pliable). Remove from the heat.
4 Using the stand mixer or a handheld electric mixer, whisk the gelatin mixture on medium speed. Slowly pour the hot sugar mixture down the side of the bowl into the gelatin mixture. Once added, turn the speed to high and whisk until the mixture is light and fluffy, 5 to 7 minutes. In the last minute of mixing, add the salt and vanilla.
5 Mix the cornstarch and confectioners’ sugar in a medium bowl.
6 Grease a deep 8-by-8-inch baking pan with a thin layer of butter. Coat it with ½ cup of the cornstarch mixture, knocking out any excess.
7 Pour the marshmallow mixture into the prepared pan. Top the marshmallows with another ½ cup of the cornstarch mixture. Let the marshmallows sit, uncovered, on the counter to set, at least 6 hours.
8 Lightly dust your work surface with some of the cornstarch mixture. Turn the marshmallows out onto the dusted surface.
9 Grease a knife with butter. Cut the marshmallows to make 6 rows of 6 marshmallows, a total of 36.
10 Coat each marshmallow one more time in the cornstarch mixture. Place the marshmallows in an airtight container until ready to use. They will keep at room temperature for at least a month.
Mallow Mash-Ups
Replace the vanilla extract with 1 scraped vanilla bean pod.
Replace the vanilla extract with a few drops of peppermint extract.
Add 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon with the salt and vanilla in Step 4.
Add ¼ cup cocoa powder with the salt and vanilla in Step 4.
Stir in ½ cup toasted coconut flakes with the salt and vanilla in Step 4.
THE HISTORY OF THE MOST BELOVED CAMPFIRE TREAT
2000 BC
Egypt
Mother of Marshmallows!
Ancient Egyptians extracted mallow sap from the root of the marshmallow plant (Althaea officinalis), and mixed it with nuts and honey. The result was a treat so delightful it was reserved as a delicacy for the pharaohs and the gods.
1900 BC
South and Central Americas
Drink of the Gods
The indigenous peoples of South and Central America are believed to be the first to discover that the beans of the cacao (or cocoa) plant could be harvested and made into liquid gold—chocolate. The various drinks made from the cacao bean were used in ritual celebrations and as currency.
4th century
Greece
Mallow as Herbal Remedy
Mallow sap is found in the fourth-century medicinal recipes of Hippocrates for relief of swelling and inflammation.
19th century
France
The French Find a Way
Marshmallow as candy resurfaced in nineteenth-century France, when confectioners took a mixture of the sap, syrup, whipped egg whites, and orange flower water, and turned it into a treat closely resembling the distinct cube-like shape of today’s marshmallow. Surprisingly, the modern, store-bought marshmallow contains no mallow sap. Extraction proved to be too expensive and laborious, so gelatin became a worthy substitute.
1837
Connecticut
Graham’s Moral Cracker
A radical New England reverend, Sylvester Graham, blamed the carnal appetites of Americans on white flour. He encouraged his followers to grow their own wheat and developed a process for making his own flour. That flour was used to make Graham bread and the more well-known Graham cracker.
1847
Bristol, England
The Molten Liquid Cools
The Fry brothers of J. S. Fry & Sons—a family owned chocolate producer in England—are believed to have invented the first mass-produced chocolate bar. They created a paste of cocoa powder, sugar, and cocoa fat that could be formed into a bar. Prior to their invention, chocolate was only consumed as a drink.
1893
Hershey, Pennsylvania
Chocolate Made Accessible
We can thank the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago for Hershey’s chocolate. Formerly a producer of caramels, Milton Hershey was awestruck by a demonstration of German chocolate manufacturing machinery, declaring “caramels are a fad but chocolate is permanent.” Hershey’s was the first to mass-produce chocolate bars in the United States, adding milk from local dairy farms to give it a smooth, creamy taste.
1925
USA
May I Have Some More?
The earliest known version of the s’mores recipe was printed in a 1925 issue of Girl Scout Leader magazine and then again as “Somemores” in a 1927 Girl Scout publication called Tramping and Trailing with the Girl Scouts.
Homemade Honey Graham Crackers
Just like homemade marshmallows, from-scratch graham crackers are a great way to make your s’mores special. These taste so good that it’s hard not to eat half of them straight out of the oven! I cut these a little smaller than store-bought grahams because they end up a little thicker, and I think it helps the s’mores ratio. If you are making them for the Huge S’mores, the thickness will help the two huge crackers remain sturdy.
Makes 32 crackers (2 inches square) Takes 30 minutes active time, 2 hours total
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface
1¼ cups graham flour or whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup honey
1 Mix the flours, baking soda, and salt together in a large bowl.
2 Combine the butter, brown sugar, and honey in another large bowl. Using a handheld electric mixer, beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
3 Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture. Beat until combined, about 1 minute. Form the dough into a 1-inch-thick disk and wrap it in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
4 Place a rack in the upper third of the oven and another in the lower third and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats and set aside.
5 Lightly flour a work surface. Unwrap the dough, place it on the floured surface, and roll it out to about 1/8-inch thickness. Cut the dough into about 32 two-inch squares. Using a toothpick, score a line down the middle of each square and make 11 holes on each side in the traditional graham pattern.
6 Place the squares on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, rotating the sheets front to back and top rack to bottom rack about halfway through the cooking time, until golden brown and slightly firm to the touch, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 15 minutes before using. The graham crackers will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a week.
Do It for the Graham
Add ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon to the dry ingredients in Step 1.
Add ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves to the dry ingredients in Step 1, and use molasses instead of honey.
Add ½ teaspoon chai spice to the dry ingredients in Step 1.
Replace ½ cup all-purpose flour with ½ cup cocoa powder.
Omit 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter and add ½ cup peanut butter instead.
How could we start a book on s’mores without a visit to the hallowed ground of the basic trio? Here, I’m using homemade marshmallows and graham crackers to get that extra handmade, cozy feeling. But if you don’t have time to invest in preparing those ingredients, just go with store-bought. No judgment.
Makes 12 Takes 10 minutes
Nonstick cooking spray
24 squares of Homemade Honey Graham Crackers
2 bars (1.55 ounces each) milk chocolate, broken into individual pips
1 Place a rack in the upper third of the oven and turn the broiler to its highest setting. Preheat for 5 to 10 minutes. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray.
2 Place 12 graham cracker squares on a serving platter. Top each square with 2 chocolate pips and set aside.
3 Place the marshmallows on the prepared baking sheet. Broil them until they’re golden brown on top, about 3 minutes. Keep a close eye on them.
4 Place 1 toasted marshmallow on each s’more. Top the s’mores with the remaining graham cracker squares and serve immediately.
make your own S’mores Party!
Even though all you need to make s’mores indoors is an oven (and occasionally a stovetop), the recipes in this book can be toted outside very easily. Many of them require little to no prep. Start with the basics and build your s’mores kit with as many of these portable wildcards as you want:
1 Fire
2 sticks
3 fire extinguisher
4 Friends
5 THE BIG THREE
chocolate
graham crackers
marshmallows
6 WILDCARDS
• Almonds
• Avocado
• Banana
• Blue cheese
• Brie
• Cheesecake
• Chocolate chip cookies
• Cookie dough
• Fig jam
• Fresh herbs, such as basil or mint
• Nutella
• Oreo cookies
• Peaches
• Peanut butter
• Peanut butter cups or other flat candy
• Pizzelles
• Potato chips
• Pretzels
• Salted caramel
• Shortbread cookies
• Sprinkles
• Sriracha
• Toasted coconut