NORI-SPICED
TUNA POKE
CRISPS
MAKES 24 CRISPS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Tuna tartare is always a surefire way to begin any party. I like my tartare to have a driving ingredient that elevates it from your typical rendition. Here, that role is played by Japanese furikake, one of the world’s all-time great condiments, generally used as a rice topping. Poke (pronounced po-kay) is a Hawaiian raw tuna dish, but the fish is chopped larger than tartare.
WONTON CRISPS
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
12 wonton wrappers, cut on a diagonal to make 24 triangles
POKE
8 ounces sashimi-grade tuna, cut into ¼- to ½-inch dice
1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion (white and green parts)
1 teaspoon sambal oelek or other Asian chili paste
1 tablespoon nori fumi furikake (see Chef Talk, below)
AVOCADO MOUSSE
1 ripe Hass avocado, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
About 3 tablespoons water, as needed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup wasabi-coated peas, pulsed in a food processor until coarsely crushed
2 radishes, cut into thin shreds, for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
1. To fry the wontons: Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. Pour enough oil into a large deep skillet to come about ½ inch up the sides and heat over high heat until is very hot and shimmering but not smoking. In batches, add the wonton triangles and cook, turning once, until they are golden brown, about 30 seconds. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer them to the paper towels to drain and cool. (The crisps can be stored at room temperature for up to 8 hours.)
2. To make the poke: Mix the tuna, soy sauce, cilantro, sesame oil, scallion, sambal oelek, and furikake in a medium bowl. (The poke can be covered and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.)
3. To make the mousse: Process the avocado and lime juice in a blender, occasionally stopping to scrape down the jar, adding enough water to make a smooth puree. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a food-safe plastic squeeze bottle.
4. To assemble the crisps: Just before serving, arrange the wonton triangles on a serving platter. Top each crisp with a spoonful of the poke. Squeeze some of the avocado purée over each, and sprinkle with the crushed wasabi peas and radish shreds. Serve immediately with the lime wedges.
POTATO and
GOAT CHEESE
Pierogi
with Caramelized Onions
MAKES ABOUT 32 PIEROGI 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
After work, I used to hang out at the Polish coffee shop Veselka, which is known as much as an after-hours chef hangout as it is for its incredible pierogi. Some people eat pierogi as a main course, but I prefer them as a hearty appetizer. I add goat cheese to the potato filling for extra creaminess, and a dash of truffle oil to the crème fraîche for a luxe finish. My mom says this is her favorite dish of all my creations, and that’s saying something.
SOUR CREAM DOUGH
4 cups (560 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup full-fat sour cream
½ cup warm water
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons canola oil
POTATO FILLING
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, about 9 ounces each, peeled
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup finely chopped red onion
¾ cup (6 ounces) goat cheese, at room temperature
1 teaspoon minced fresh chives
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
CARAMELIZED ONIONS
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion, cut into thin half-moons
½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
TRUFFLE CRÈME FRAÎCHE
¾ cup crème fraîche or sour cream, for serving
2 teaspoons white truffle oil
ASSEMBLY
Flour, for rolling out the dough
1 large egg, beaten until foamy
About 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, as needed
Finely chopped fresh chives, for garnish (optional)
Special Equipment: 3-inch round cookie cutter
1. To make the dough: Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together in the bowl of a heavy-duty standing electric mixer (or in a large bowl). Whisk the sour cream, water, eggs, and oil together in a small bowl, then pour into the flour mixture. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed (or stir with a wooden spoon), adding more water if the dough is too dry, to make a soft dough. Change to the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth and supple, 6 to 8 minutes. (Or turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for 8 to 10 minutes.) Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, make the filling: Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold salted water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Press the potatoes through a potato ricer (or rub them through a coarse wire sieve) into a medium bowl and let them cool.
3. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the red onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir the onion into the potatoes, along with the goat cheese and chives. Stir in the cream and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. To assemble the pierogi: Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Working with one half of the dough at a time, roll it out on a lightly floured work surface until about ⅛ inch thick. Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter, cut out rounds of the dough, reserving the trimmings. Spoon about 1 teaspoon filling on the bottom half of each round. Brush the edge of each round with beaten egg, fold in half to enclose the filling, and seal closed with a fork. Transfer to the baking sheet. Knead the dough scraps together until smooth and let rest for about 10 minutes. Then repeat with the remaining dough and filling. (The pierogi can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.)
5. To caramelize the onion: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the yellow onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until very tender and caramelized, about 25 minutes. Stir in the thyme and season to taste with the salt and pepper. Let cool. Coarsely chop the onions and transfer to a small bowl. (The onions can be covered and refrigerated for up to 8 hours. Bring to room temperature before using.)
6. To make the truffle crème fraîche: Mix the crème fraîche and truffle oil in a small bowl. (The crème fraîche can be covered and refrigerated for up to 8 hours. Bring to room temperature before using.)
7. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 200°F. Line another large rimmed baking sheet with paper towels.
8. To cook the pierogi: Heat the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. In batches, without crowding, add the pierogi, flat sides down, and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pierogi to the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining pierogi, adding more oil to the skillet as needed.
9. Arrange the pierogi on a platter. Top each with a dab of the caramelized onions and sprinkle with the chives, if using. Serve immediately, with the truffle crème fraîche.