ASIAN NOODLES
with SHRIMP, MISO BUTTER, AND SPICY PEANUTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
These Chinese stir-fried noodles are dressed with butter and lemongrass paste, creating an unforgettable taste you’ll never find in a takeout box. When buying the noodles, look for those with real eggs and not just yellow food coloring—you can substitute egg fettuccine, if necessary.
MISO BUTTER
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ tablespoons white (shiro) miso
1½ teaspoons Japanese soy sauce
LEMONGRASS PASTE
1 tablespoon chopped (pale bulb only) lemongrass
1 tablespoon chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro stems (leaves reserved for serving)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
8 ounces dried Chinese egg noodles
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons canola or vegetable oil
1 pound jumbo (21 to 25 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 cups fresh bean sprouts
1 large red bell pepper, roasted (see here), seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice
2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
20 cilantro leaves, torn into small pieces
10 large Thai basil leaves, torn into small pieces
⅓ cup coarsely chopped sriracha-flavored peanuts
1. To make the miso butter: Mash the butter, miso, and soy sauce together in a small bowl.
2. To make the lemongrass paste: Pulse the lemongrass, ginger, cilantro stems, garlic, and hot pepper flakes together in a mini–food processor or electric spice grinder to make a coarse paste. Transfer to a ramekin or custard cup.
3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions until tender. Drain well and rinse under cold water. Drizzle the noodles with 2 teaspoons of the oil and toss well. (The noodles can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)
4. Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat until the wok is very hot. Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons oil down the sides of the wok (it will smoke). Add the shrimp, scattering them along the sides of the wok. Cook without stirring until the undersides turn opaque, about 1 minute. Add the lemongrass paste and stir, scraping the shrimp off the sides of the wok. Add the bean sprouts, roasted pepper, and scallions and stir-fry just until the shrimp turn almost completely opaque, about 1 minute. Add the noodles and stir-fry until they are hot, about 1 minute. Add the miso butter, cilantro, and Thai basil and toss until the butter melts and coats the noodle mixture, about 30 seconds.
5. Transfer the noodles to a large serving platter. Sprinkle with the peanuts and serve immediately.
Pasta
with Mushroom Ragout, Walnuts, and Pecorino
MAKES 4 to 6 SERVINGS
One of the best things about this pasta dish is its versatility. A mix of supermarket mushrooms (for example, cremini, oyster, and shiitake) can be just as good as foraged wild mushrooms like chanterelles and morels. To encourage the browning of the mushrooms, cook them in batches, because if they are crowded in the pan, they’ll steam and give off too much liquid. For an entirely vegetarian dish, substitute Vegetable Stock (here) for the chicken broth. Don’t forget to toast the walnuts!
6 tablespoons (¾ cup) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
4 garlic cloves, minced
1½ pounds assorted mushrooms (such as shiitake caps, oyster, cremini, chanterelle, morels, and king, in any combination), sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup Madeira or dry Marsala
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
1 pound tube-shaped pasta, such as rigatoni or ziti
½ cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving
½ cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts (see Note)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving
1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a very large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in half of the shallots and half of the garlic and cook just until they soften, about 1 minute. Stir in half of the mushrooms, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are browned and tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl. Repeat with another 2 tablespoons butter and the remaining shallots, garlic, and mushrooms, seasoning with salt and pepper. Return the reserved mushrooms to the skillet.
2. Stir in the Madeira and cook until it reduces to a glaze, about 2 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the broth and boil until it reduces to 2 tablespoons, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 cup broth, the cream, soy sauce, and thyme and boil, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has thickened and reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Drain in a colander. Return the pasta to its cooking pot.
4. Add the mushroom ragout, cheese, and remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pasta and toss until the butter has melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the walnuts and parsley and serve immediately, with more Pecorino passed on the side.
Note: To toast the walnuts, bake them on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350°F oven, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. A toaster oven works, too.
CREAMY
ORZO
with Pancetta and Vegetables
MAKES 4 to 6 SERVINGS
With nuggets of roasted butternut squash, this comforting dish is just the thing to make on a cool autumn evening. The creamy thyme sauce gives the rice-shaped pasta a rich, risotto-like consistency. I usually make this with guanciale (cured pork cheeks), but pancetta is an easy-to-find substitute.
ROASTED SQUASH
1 small butternut squash, about 1 pound, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
THYME CREAM
¾ cup heavy cream
6 sprigs fresh thyme
1 garlic clove, crushed under a knife and peeled
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
8 ounces orzo pasta, about 1⅓ cups
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 bunches broccolini (see Note), stems trimmed, cut into 2-inch lengths
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 ounces (¼-inch) diced pancetta
4 tablespoons (1 ounce) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
Grated zest of ½ lemon
½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
1. To roast the squash: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Toss the squash with the oil in a large bowl. Spread on an 18-by-13-inch half-sheet pan. Roast, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, to make the thyme cream: Bring the cream, thyme sprigs, garlic, and bay leaf to a simmer in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat and let steep for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture through a wire sieve into a small bowl, discarding the solids, and set the cream aside.
3. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the orzo and cook according to the package directions until barely tender. Drain in a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain again. Transfer to a bowl and toss with the oil.
4. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the broccolini and cook until barely tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain in the colander and rinse under cold running water. Pat dry and coarsely chop.
5. Cook the pancetta in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme cream and bring to a simmer, stirring to scrape up any browned bits in the pan. Remove from the heat and stir in 2 tablespoons of the Parmigiano, the lemon zest, and the chopped thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to very low to keep warm.
6. Stir the butternut squash, orzo, and broccolini into the thyme cream and cook just until it is heated through, about 1 minute. Transfer the orzo mixture to a large, deep platter. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmigiano. Serve immediately, with extra Parmigiano passed at the table.
Note: Broccolini is really terrific in this dish, but if you wish, substitute 1 pound broccoli. Cut off the tops (save the stems for another use) and cut them into small florets, about the diameter of a dime. After cooking, coarsely chop the florets, cutting their stems into ½-inch dice.