Chile Relleno
EMPANADAS
MAKES 24 EMPANADAS 8 TO 12 SERVINGS
When I go to a Mexican restaurant, I always order the chile relleno, with its irresistible melted cheese filling. These addictive little pies embrace the same combination of roasted poblanos and gooey cheese. A bit of ancho chile in the dough adds a hint of spice and gives the empanadas a nice orange color.
EMPANADA DOUGH
2¾ cups (385 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling the dough
2½ teaspoons pure ground ancho chile
2½ teaspoons ground cumin
2½ teaspoons sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
4 tablespoons (½ stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
¾ cup ice water
1 large egg yolk
JALAPEÑO LIME CREMA
½ cup sour cream
1 jalapeño, roasted (here), peeled, seeded, and minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
Pinch of sugar
POBLANO FILLING
1 large poblano (fresh ancho) chile, roasted (here), peeled, and seeded
⅔ cup (about 2½ ounces) shredded Fontina Val d’Aosta cheese
¼ cup (1 ounce) shredded Manchego cheese, or more Fontina cheese
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 large egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water, for an egg wash
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
2 radishes, cut into thin strips, for serving (optional)
Special Equipment: 3½-inch round cookie cutter
1. To make the dough: Put the flour, ground ancho, cumin, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse a few times until the mixture resembles coarse meal with some pea-sized pieces of butter. Transfer to a medium bowl. (Or whisk the dry ingredients together in a medium bowl. Add the butter and cut it in with a pastry blender or two knives.) Mix the ice water and egg yolk together. Stir in enough of the egg mixture until the dough clumps together. Gather the dough together and shape into a thick disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 1 to 4 hours.
2. To make the crema: Mix the ingredients together in a small bowl. Cover and set aside.
3. To make the filling. Coarsely puree the poblano in a blender or food processor and transfer to a medium bowl. Add the Fontina, Manchego, and Parmigiano and stir well. Using about 1 teaspoon for each (a #100 food portion scoop works well), shape the mixture into 24 equal balls.
4. To make the empanadas: Cut the dough in half. Working with one half at a time on a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about 
-inch thickness. (This dough is rolled thinner than dough for piecrust to compensate for the empanadas’ double-thick edges.) Using a 3½-inch-diameter cookie cutter, cut out rounds of the dough. Transfer the rounds to a baking sheet, overlapping them as needed and separating the layers with waxed or parchment paper. Gather up the scraps and repeat once more to make a total of 24 rounds. Discard the remaining dough. Refrigerate the rounds until chilled, 10 to 20 minutes.
5. Place a round on the work surface and brush the edges with the egg wash. Place a cheese ball on the lower half of the round and fold the dough in half to enclose the filling. Press the open edge closed with a fork, being sure it is completely sealed. Return to the baking sheet. (The empanadas can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours.)
6. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 200°F. Line an 18-by-13-inch half-sheet pan with a wire rack. Pour enough oil to come 2 inches up the sides of a large deep saucepan and heat over high heat until it registers 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer.
7. In batches, without crowding, deep-fry the empanadas, turning as needed, until they are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using a wire spider or a slotted spoon, transfer the empanadas to the wire rack and keep warm in the oven while frying the remaining empanadas.
8. To serve, place the empanadas on a platter. Top each with a small dollop of the crema and sprinkle with the radishes, if using. Serve immediately, with the remaining crema passed on the side.
Pizza Bianca
MAKES ONE 9 × 13-inch FOCACCIA
Pizza bianca (“white pizza” in Italian) is similar to plain focaccia. While you can find fresh focaccia at some stores and bakeries, it is very easy to make the flatbread at home. I am not a big fan of serving bread on the side at meals, but I use this often as a base for toppings like avocado focaccia (here) or chicken livers (here).
FOCACCIA DOUGH
3 cups (420 g) unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons instant (also called bread-machine or quick-rise) yeast
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup cold tap water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the bowl
TOPPING
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan and brushing
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1. To make the dough in a food processor: Add the flour, yeast, and salt to a food processor. Combine the water and oil in a liquid measuring cup. With the machine running, pour the water mixture through the feed tube and process until the dough forms a ball that rides on top of the blade. Feel the dough—it should be moist and tacky. If it is wet and sticky, add flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, and process until the dough feels right. Let the machine run for 45 seconds to knead the ball of dough.
To make the dough in a stand mixer: Combine the water with the oil, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer fitted with the paddle. With the machine on low speed, gradually add enough of the flour to make a dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook and knead on medium-low speed, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky, about 8 minutes.
To make the dough by hand: Combine the water with the oil, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Using a sturdy spoon, gradually stir in enough of the flour to make a stiff dough that can’t be stirred. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface. Knead, adding just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to the work surface and your hands (but keeping the dough moist and slightly tacky), until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
2. Generously oil a medium bowl. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and shape it into a ball. Add the ball to the bowl and turn to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until the dough has doubled in volume, about 1¼ hours. (Or refrigerate the dough for 18 to 24 hours.)
3. Lightly oil a 9-by-13-inch quarter-sheet pan. Punch your fist into the dough to deflate it. On a lightly floured work surface, pat the dough into a thick rectangle. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 10-by-14-inch rectangle. Fit the dough into the pan, being sure to reach the corners. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and let stand for 5 minutes. If the dough has retracted, press it into the corners of the pan again. Cover again, and let stand in a warm place until the dough looks puffy but not doubled, about 30 minutes (or about 1½ hours for refrigerated dough).
4. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
5. Dimple the dough with your fingertips. Drizzle the oil over the top of the dough and sprinkle with the salt. Bake until the pizza is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Lightly brush the top of the pizza with oil (this keeps the top tender). Let the pizza cool completely in the pan. (The pizza can be covered with aluminum foil and stored at room temperature for up to 12 hours.)
CHICKEN LIVER
FOCACCIA
with Braised Shallot–Rioja Marmalade
MAKES 12 APPETIZERS 6 SERVINGS
I lived on the Lower East Side for many, many years, surrounded by the likes of Katz’s Delicatessen and Sammy’s Roumanian Steakhouse—institutions in the art of perfect chopped liver. I like my chicken livers pureed smooth, spread over toasted focaccia (aka pizza bianca), and topped with wine-braised shallots. The portions are fairly big, so you can cut them in half again to make 24 pieces, if you wish. Or, instead of making the pizza, spread the mousse over 24 crostini (see here).
CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE
4 tablespoons rendered duck fat (see Note) or unsalted butter
1¼ pounds chicken livers, trimmed
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped shallots
½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
¼ cup Madeira wine
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SHALLOT MARMALADE
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 shallots, thinly sliced lengthwise (about 1¼ cups)
1 small garlic clove, minced
¼ cup hearty red wine, such as Rioja
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
2½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
¼ teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pizza Bianca (here)
Olive oil, for brushing
1. To make the mousse: Melt 2 tablespoons of the duck fat in a large skillet over medium-high heat and then heat until the fat is very hot but not smoking. Add the chicken livers and cook until the undersides are browned, about 3 minutes. Flip the livers and sprinkle in the shallots and thyme. Cook until the livers are browned and medium-rare and the shallots are softened, about 2 minutes.
2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the solids to a medium bowl. Return the skillet to high heat and cook until the cooking juices are reduced to a few tablespoons. Pour in the Madeira and carefully ignite it with a long match. (Don’t worry if it doesn’t ignite.) Boil for 15 seconds. Add to the liver mixture and let cool until warm, about 15 minutes.
3. Process the warm liver mixture, the remaining 2 tablespoons duck fat, the cream, and the nutmeg in a food processor until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 1 day.
4. To make the shallot marmalade: Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots soften, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Uncover and cook, stirring often, until the shallots are browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Increase the heat to high. Add the red wine and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits in the skillet. Stir in the broth, balsamic vinegar, and honey and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook at a brisk simmer until the liquid evaporates into a glaze, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Season to taste with the salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool. (The shallot marmalade can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for 3 days. Reheat gently before using.)
5. Position a broiler rack about 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. Using a serrated knife, trim the sides of the pizza bianca into a 9-by-6-inch rectangle, reserving the trimmings for another use (such as breadcrumbs or croutons). Brush the pizza bianca with olive oil. Broil until the pizza bianca is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the mousse over the pizza bianca. Using a sharp knife, cut the pizza into 12 strips, each 3 inches long and 1½ inches wide. Top each strip with an equal amount of the shallot marmalade. Serve immediately.
Note: Duck fat is sold in the butcher department of many supermarkets. Shelf-stable brands can be purchased online. It freezes very well and is an excellent fat for sautéing. Duck fat–fried potatoes are a guilty pleasure of mine.
AVOCADO, LEMON,
and
ESPELETTE FOCACCIA
MAKES 16 TOASTS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Avocado toast is now ubiquitous on menus, and I have to weigh in with my version, which I have been serving for years. It is a great way to party, day or night. Not only does the lemony vinaigrette keep the avocado looking fresh and vibrant; the bright citrus dressing awakens the palate as any starter should. It’s best to buy your avocados a few days ahead so they can soften at room temperature. And, if you can, frying the basil really makes this simple dish pop.
AVOCADO TOPPING
Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 ripe Hass avocados, peeled, pitted, and cut into ½-inch dice
TOASTS
Pizza Bianca (here) or store-bought focaccia
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
About ½ teaspoon Piment d’Espelette (see Chef Talk, this page), as needed, for serving
16 fresh basil leaves, fried if you like (see Note)
Flaky sea salt, preferably Maldon, for serving
1. To make the topping: Whisk the lemon zest and juice, mustard, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Add the avocado and mix gently. (The avocado topping can be covered, with the plastic wrap pressed directly on to the surface, and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.)
2. To assemble the toasts: Using a serrated knife, cut the pizza into 16 strips, each about 4 inches long and 1½ inches wide. Trim the tops of the strips so they are flat and about ¾ inch tall. (The trimmings can be saved and used for another purpose, such as making croutons or processing into bread crumbs.)
3. Heat a ridged grill pan over medium-high heat. Mix the olive oil and butter together in a small bowl. Brush the pizza bianca strips on both sides with the oil mixture. In batches, place the strips on the grill pan and cook, turning once, until seared with grill marks, about 2 minutes per side. Place the strips on a platter or plates.
4. Spread each strip with an equal amount of the avocado mixture. Sprinkle with the Piment d’Espelette, followed by the basil, and finished with the flaky salt. Serve immediately.
Note: Fried basil leaves have a beautiful transparent look and make an especially attractive (but optional) garnish. Heat a small saucepan of vegetable or canola oil to 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer over high heat. Add the basil leaves, a few at a time, and fry just until they look transparent and slightly crisp, about 15 seconds. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the basil to paper towels to drain. Use immediately.