COCONUT LAYER CAKE

One of my college friends loves desserts, but right around the time she was expecting her first daughter, she discovered she couldn’t have dairy. To make something special for her baby shower that would fulfill her cravings, I created a coconut cake that’s saturated with coconut. The airy génoise cake is soaked with boozy coconut water, and dried coconut is baked into its crust, creating a toasty shell. Coconut milk turns a vanilla-scented filling into a silky, creamy custard. Coconut water works its magic again in a seven-minute frosting, making a fluffy version less sugary and sticky than the classic but subtly coconutty. For the party, I made a double batch of the recipe below to build a four-story tower. You can do the same for big bashes. Otherwise, a two-layer cake is plenty.

makes one 9-inch layer cake

dairy-free, no nuts

COCONUT GÉNOISE

COCONUT SOAKING LIQUID

SEVEN-MINUTE COCONUT FROSTING

1. To make the génoise: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Coat two 9-inch round cake pans with nonstick cooking spray, line the bottoms with parchment paper, and spray again. Sprinkle the coconut over the bottoms, shaking and tilting the pans to coat evenly.

2. Sift the flour and cornstarch into a small bowl. Combine the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, salt, and both extracts in a large heatproof bowl, set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and whisk constantly until the mixture is just warm to the touch and the sugar has dissolved, about 1 minute. You shouldn’t feel the grit of the sugar anymore, but don’t let the mixture get hot; if it does, the eggs won’t whip properly. Immediately remove the bowl from the heat and whisk with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until the mixture is pale yellow, at room temperature, and tripled in volume. If you run your finger through the mixture, it should leave a path.

3. Sift half of the flour mixture on top of the egg mixture and gently run a large rubber spatula through the center of the bowl and then around the sides to fold. Rotate the bowl after each fold to quickly incorporate the dry ingredients without deflating the eggs. Repeat with the remaining flour. Divide the batter between the prepared pans and very gently spread it evenly; you don’t want it to deflate.

4. Bake until the cake is golden and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. If the sides of the cakes look as if they’re clinging to the pans, run a thin-bladed knife between the edges of the cake and each pan. Immediately invert the cakes onto a cooling rack and discard the parchment, then quickly flip right side up again. The easiest way to do this is to place a rack on top of each cake in the pan, flip, remove the parchment, place another rack on top of the cake, and flip both racks together with the cakes in between (don’t squish them!), then remove the top rack. Cool completely on the racks.

6. Meanwhile, finish the pudding: Line a 9-inch-round cake pan with plastic wrap, with an overhang on all sides. Spread the warm pudding in an even layer in the pan and press the overhang directly against its surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cold and set, at least 1 hour.

7. To make the soaking liquid: Combine the coconut water, sugar, and rum in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let stand until cooled to room temperature.

8. Place one cake layer, top side up, on a cake plate. Brush evenly with half of the soaking liquid. Uncover the pudding and lift out of the pan using the plastic overhang, then use the plastic to flip the pudding onto the cake, centering it. Discard the plastic. Place the other cake layer, top side up, on top of the pudding. Brush with the remaining soaking liquid.

9. To make the frosting: Combine the egg whites, sugar, coconut water, cream of tartar, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bottom of the bowl touch the water). Beat on low speed with an electric hand mixer for 1 minute. Raise the speed to high and beat until thick, glossy peaks form, about 5 minutes. Add the extracts and beat until well incorporated.

10. Immediately dollop the frosting on top of the cake. Spread evenly all over the top and sides of the cake.

MAKE AHEAD

The cake layers will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. The pudding will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. The soaking liquid will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The soaked cake with the pudding layer will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. The frosted cake will keep uncovered on the cake plate at cool room temperature for up to 4 hours.

Coconut Layer Cake